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Flaming River
1964 Chevrolet El Camino Steering Column Flaming River - Flaming River

P311-58362BA    FR20005  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
Flaming River Steering Column
  • Floorshift Tilt Column: 2 in dia30 length 1 DD: Mill Finish
  • Floorshift Tilt Column: 2 in dia30 length 1 DD: Mill Finish
  • Flaming River
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bar CodePart No.: Fr20005
    • Column Finish: Paintable Mill
    • Column Length: 30"
    • Retail Shaft Size: 1" Dd
  • This tilt column is designed for use with floor shifter. They feature a 2 tube diameter and compact shroud create a unique new custom look. Each column comes complete with a billet dress up kit (Tilt/turn signal levers and hazard knob), GM wiring (4-1/4i
Brand: Flaming River
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1964 - Chevrolet El Camino
Flaming River
1969 Chevrolet Caprice Steering Column Flaming River - Flaming River

P311-07FE440    FR20005BK  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
Flaming River Steering Column
  • Floorshift Tilt Column: 2 in dia30" length 1 DD Black Powdercoat
  • Floorshift Tilt Column: 2 in dia30 length 1 DD Black Powdercoat
  • Flaming River
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bar CodePart No.: Fr20005bk
    • Column Finish: Black Powdercoat
  • This tilt column is designed for use with floor shifter. They feature a 2 tube diameter and compact shroud create a unique new custom look. Each column comes complete with a billet dress up kit (Tilt/turn signal levers and hazard knob), GM wiring (4-1/4i
Brand: Flaming River
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1969 - Chevrolet Caprice
Cardone
2008 Chevrolet Cobalt Steering Column Cardone - Electronic Power Steering Assist Column

P311-4A2D93A    1C-18011  Remanufactured

19200752 , 25856530 , 25874323

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$111.60 $348.07
Cardone Steering Column
  • Except Active Brake Control
  • Electronic Power Steering Assist Column
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Electronic Power Steering Assist Columns are engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All units are calibrated and tested to ensure proper function and long-lasting performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Chevrolet Cobalt Sport
Cardone
2005 Chevrolet Cobalt Steering Column Cardone - Electronic Power Steering Assist Column

P311-51A1E4F    1C-18000  Remanufactured

10394224 , 15245464 , 19200751 , 19209136

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$71.28 $297.46
Cardone Steering Column
  • Electronic Power Steering Assist Column
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Electronic Power Steering Assist Columns are engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All units are calibrated and tested to ensure proper function and long-lasting performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Cobalt
Cardone
2006 Chevrolet Equinox Steering Column Cardone - Electronic Power Steering Assist Column

P311-2AB3FB4    1C-18001  Remanufactured

15802754 , 15907937 , 19178903

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$111.60 $556.88
Cardone Steering Column
  • Electronic Power Steering Assist Column
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Electronic Power Steering Assist Columns are engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All units are calibrated and tested to ensure proper function and long-lasting performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Chevrolet Equinox
Cardone
2011 Chevrolet Malibu Steering Column 4 Cyl 2.4L Cardone - Electronic Power Steering Assist Column

P311-02E0D32    1C-1004  Remanufactured

15926870 , 25933396 , 88967179

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$89.10 $322.76
Cardone Steering Column
  • Electronic Power Steering Assist Column
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Electronic Power Steering Assist Columns are engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All units are calibrated and tested to ensure proper function and long-lasting performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Chevrolet Malibu L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
ACDelco
Qty:
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$171.24
ACDelco Steering Column
  • Steering Column Tilt / Telescope Sensor; MATING CONNECTOR USE 12125678
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2006 - Chevrolet Malibu LT
ACDelco
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$78.34
ACDelco Steering Column
  • Steering Column Tilt / Telescope Sensor; POWER RETRACTABLE TILT STEERING COLUMN (N38)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Traverse
BBB Industries
2012 Chevrolet Malibu Steering Column BBB Industries - Reman Rack and Pinion

P311-25DDB46    992-0104  Remanufactured

25933396

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$125.00 $305.01
BBB Industries Steering Column
  • Power Assist Column with Electronic Power Steering Steering Position Sensor Calibration, Torque Sensor Calibration
  • Reman Rack and Pinion
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Chevrolet Malibu
BBB Industries
2005 Chevrolet Malibu Steering Column BBB Industries - Reman Rack and Pinion

P311-25DDB46    992-0104  Remanufactured

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$125.00 $305.01
BBB Industries Steering Column
  • Power Assist Column Z Body, with Electronic Power Steering Steering Position Sensor Calibration, Torque Sensor Calibration
  • Reman Rack and Pinion
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2005 - Chevrolet Malibu Sedan

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Smoke from steering column

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Smoke from steering column

Two days ago I was driving on the highway and I noticed that a small trail of white smoke came out of the steering column in my car. It didn't last long, but still. I guess it's probably a short circuit, maybe, but is it safe to drive it back home? ( Takes me aprox. 45mins.) The car is a 1995 Chevrolet Corsica. My flashers still work and my horn too, could you give me advice?

Thanks.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

You aren't supposed to let the smoke out of the steering column. Yes, this means an electrical short. Electrical fires can be dangerous and very expensive to repair, assuming the vehicle doesn't burn to the ground. I would recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable and have it towed to a repair facility.

airbag light on dash

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From psamp48 on airbag light on dash

1997 Chevrolet Lumina
3.1 litre
125000 kms

I replaced the rack and pinion on the car, all works well except the red airbag light is constantly on. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

If you let the steering wheel turn while it was disconnected, then you probably broke the clockspring in the steering column.

Response From psamp48

Where do I find this spring?

Response From Hammer Time

As I said, "in the steering column.

If you have no experience in working around Airbags, I suggest take it to a shop as they have the power to kill you.

Response From psamp48 Top Rated Answer

I am comfortable working on steering columns, I have done it in the past. I am wondering where in the column this spring would be located. I am well aware of the dangers of airbags.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm sorry but if you don't know what a clockspring is and where it's located, then you are not at all familiar with airbags and their dangers. I think you should have someone more experienced do this.

Response From psamp48

Is it ok to drive as is?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the system is disabled as long as the light is on. It's removing the airbag itself that is dangerous. It has an explosive charge.

Response From psamp48

I have done it before, unhooked the battery before doing anything. I just googled clock spring, I now know what it is and why it broke. I have re/re them before, I just wasn't aware of what it was called.

2005 Chev Avalanche continues cranking after letting go of key

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From avalanavig on 2005 Chev Avalanche continues cranking after letting go of key

I have a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche with the 5.3 V-8.

When one goes to start the engine it sometimes continues cranking after the engine starts and you let go of the key . Sometimes it only does it momentarily; sometimes you have to manually bring the key back so it stops cranking. I have gotten several opinions. Some say ignition switch in the steering column; others say starter/solenoid; others say electrical problem such as a relay.

I replaced the starter relay but that did not fix the problem.

One problem in regard to repair is it only does it sporadically and it never does it when I take it to the shop.

Anyone have an idea what the problem is ? Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Response From Bojames Top Rated Answer

I doubt seriously that your problem is in the starter......
Does you vehicle have a tilt column? If so try moving it into different settings and see if the problem persist.
I also doubt that it is the Ignition switch in the column. When you turn the key, the switch pushes a rod
down throught the steering column that actually engages an electrical switch that mounts on top of the column (under the dash). You might check to see if something is binding the rod.

Response From avalanavig

Bojames: thanks for the reply. I will change the tilt position of the column to see if that helps. I went to the Chevy dealer and described the problem to the the service rep who told me it was the fuel pump. Is that possible?

Response From Bojames

Caleb,

Not sure about the "fuel pump" thing...Who knows with the computerized cars.
I'm an "old school" mechanic so my expertise (if I have any) are in practical solutions.
Since the invention of catalitic converters, computers, and "little black boxes" my "shade tree" days have been over.

Response From avalanavig

Bojames:

Hey, I think it was the tilt. The sterring column was tilted all the way down. I tilted it up a bit and it hasn't done it since. Strange. Thanks for the suggestion.

Response From avalanavig

No one anywhere was able to tell me what the cause of the problem is, so I decided to try a new starter and solenoid in the hope that would solve the problem. I went to Advance auto parts and got the starter in my hands. While reading the literature (before buying) I found a flyer which said as follows:

""GHOST START" Starter Cranks After Key Is Released On Cold Start
Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe .... with 4.8L, 5.3L ....Gas Engine
Condition: Owners of these vehicles may comment that the engine starter will continue to run after key is released. This is a normal condition and no repairs should be attempted ...." Ha!!

What can one say when the fact is that either no repair facility that I took the vehicle to knew about this condition; or they didn't tell me about it in order to sell me something I didn't need. The local Maroone Chevrolet dealer service manager told me that I needed a new fuel pump. How can anyone trust any auto repair business?

Response From Hammer Time

And yet you come to us for free advice....................

Maybe no one you talked to had the opportunity to read that factory Technical Service Bulletin recently and wasn't aware. Obviously the starter company was getting numerous warranty returns that caused them to look into the problem and find the bulletin. In the future, don't be so quick to condemn everyone in the business. We take that personally.

PS, If you read this bulletin, you will see that one of the reasons for a long crank like that is the fuel pump not building up pressure quickly enough so in that case, you may actually need a fuel pump. The bulletin says your starting system needs no repairs but I do believe you need a fuel pump.


Here is the TSB in full.



Bulletin No.: 03-06-03-001D
Date: August 02, 2007
INFORMATION Subject:
Starter Cranks After key Is Released (Normal Condition) Models:
2003-2008 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn)
2003-2008 HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to vehicles with PCM/ECM controlled starters.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-03-001C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Some customers may comment that the engine starter will continue to run after the key is released.
For the 2003 through 2008 model years, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the starter relay based on input from the key switch. When the ignition switch is held in the start position for 0.4 seconds, the PCM/ECM start timer is activated. Once the start timer is activated, the PCM/ECM will continue to crank the starter until either the engine starts or a no start time limit is reached.
Occasionally, the fuel pump module will take one or two seconds to build fuel pressure. Often this will occur after the vehicle sits overnight. During some vehicle starts, the customer may release the ignition switch, key before the engine actually starts. When this occurs, the engine will then continue to crank until the engine starts or the no start time limit is reached.
This is a normal condition and no repairs should be attempted for this condition.

Response From avalanavig

Hammer Time: Thanks for taking the time to provide a detailed response. If you read my last post carefully you will see that I am not critical of the free information I received from the forums. I understand that all the free info has to be "taken with a grain of salt" as it were. I was being critical of the actual repair facilities that I took the vehicle to here in the city where I live. They all wanted to sell me a computer analysis.

An honest competent repair facility would have provided me with the information in the bulletin at the time they offer a computer analysis. The places I took the vehicle to were either dishonest or incompetent. There is no other conclusion. It is unfortunate that you take it personally. Just because the places I took it to were dishonest or incompetent does not mean every repair facility is dishonest or incompetent, but I am concerned that the places I took it to may be representative of the entire auto repair industry.

Hypothetical: The service manager knew about the bulletin. But times are tough; have to bring in business/raise revenues; so you sell the customer a computer analysis and then tell him the info from the bulletin as if it came from the computer analysis. Then tell him he may need a new fuel pump and that he should do it now to avoid being left stranded. Charge him $100.00. for the computer analysis.

Is this dishonest? a little dishonest?

I live in Miami. Maybe they are representative of the auto repair business in Miami. You may say that the facilities I went to are not representative of all auto repair facilities. But I am skeptical. How does one know????

Response From Hammer Time

An honest competent repair facility would have provided me with the information in the bulletin at the time they offer a computer analysis. The places I took the vehicle to were either dishonest or incompetent. There is no other conclusion.

I totally disagree with you here.

First off, when a customer approaches the write up desk at any facility, there will never be a diagnosis made there, no matter how obvious it may appear. The people in this business know that things are not always what they appear to be and until they are investigated completely, any premature diagnosis can come back to bite them in the ass.

Second, the guy doing the write up is not the guy that has the technical knowledge. He is merely making arrangements for that person to examine the car. The first steps to any diagnosis is to first verify the complaint before doing anything. This is the point where the technician and only the technician would look into the data base for any possible TSBs on that problem. In this case he would have found out that the starter circuit was operating properly BUT something else in the vehicle is causing the system to crank longer than it should be. This is where the fuel pump diagnosis comes in, which I do agree with.

Now, this data base that supplies this information does not come free. We pay dearly for this service every month so this cost has to be passed on. The technician that spent all this time road testing your car, researching the data base for information and subsequently going back and testing this system's fuel system and anything else that could be triggering the long crank, has to be compensated for his time. Also remember not every shop has access to these information bulletins nor a technician smart enough to check them so don't confuse their incompetence or lack of tools with dishonestly.

Everyone is real quick to say they were ripped off but if they had any idea what it takes to stay current in this business and not make any mistakes in diagnosis, they would be very shocked.

Response From Trevman243

Sorry that was my bad, didn't have my glasses on when i saw the question and thanks for the diagram Hammer i was looking for one of those

Response From Trevman243

I just worked on one that flat out wouldnt crank, theres a fuse that blows that messes with the whole ignition process, cant remember which one but its also a sign that your fuel pump is about done so be prepared for that

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I respectively disagree Trevman that the fuel pump has anything to do with an engine cranking by starter motor. Engine would crank if the whole gas tank was out with its fuel pump. Do vehicles have lots of fuel pump and pressure issues - yes and many are GMs. It would take some funky crossed wires somewhere to have fuel pump power keep a "trigger" wire live at the starter IMO,

T

Response From Hammer Time


Response From Tom Greenleaf

It may come back. Near sure the spring to return to plain "run" is in the key switch itself. Maybe - lock de-icer would help if available to you but read the packaging that it has some safe lube for an ignition lock as it's mostly used for doors,

T

Charging Problem

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From LWH on Charging Problem

1988 Chevrolet 1500 Series 1/2 Ton Pick-up 2WD - Battery not getting proper charge from the alternator. The alternator is putting out 14V, but when you test the charging system, it only reads 11V. When you unhook the positive battery cable while the truck is running, sometimes the truck will run, sometimes it will cut off. If you check the voltage when you unhook the positive cable from the battery, it shows 14V.

I have:

tested and replaced alternators
replaced battery
changed starter
traced wires - doesn't seem to be a short

I am wondering if there might be a short in the steering column because the ignition switch has a lot of play in it and when you put on the turn signal, the amp meter fluctuates. This problem goes and comes and sometimes it does fine, while other times the truck idles like it is going to cut off.

Any ideas as to what I can also try?

Response From rodjen700

Also bleeding current / ALL OFF / must be <5 mili amperes.
Be sure that ALL is off, even motor hood light, and door light is off also.
Friend M.P.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Also bleeding current / ALL OFF / must be <5 mili amperes.
Be sure that ALL is off, even motor hood light, and door light is off also.
Friend M.P.

Your never going to get any car below 5ma of parasitic draw these days. The acceptable limit is 50ma.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

LWH; First, you should never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. You can damage the diodes in the alternator by doing so.
The charging voltage should be between 13.6V and 14.6V at apprx. 800-1000 rpm. With the engine off, what is the battery voltage? A fully charged battery should have 13.2V. If the battery is low, it may not be energizing the alternator. Check for a minimum of 12V on the battery terminal connection on the back of the alternator. An alternator can put out voltage, but no or not enough amperage. The voltage output won't be at it's greatest while the alternator is pumping out amperage to charge a low battery. A faulty battery can cause eroneous readings from the alternator. Sooooo....step back, have the battery charged and load tested. At a 40A charge, the battery voltage should not be higher than 14.0V. If it is, it's probably sulphated and needs to be replaced. After the battery is known good, recheck the charging system making sure that you have the needed voltage at the alternator.
I'm sure you've already done so, but make certain that all of your connections are clean and tight. Positive and negative at the battery, starter, and engine block.

Intermittent Electrical Problem - Air Bag Warning / Odometer / Clock Reset

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Jeff09 on Intermittent Electrical Problem - Air Bag Warning / Odometer / Clock Reset

Hi,

I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban with a 5.3 L engine. The mileage is approximately 120,000 miles.

Several years ago I began having problem with the air bag warning light coming on and then going back off. I was told that until the warning light stayed on all the time, it would probably be a waste of money to have it looked at by the dealer.

Recently I have noticed that the odometer/gear selection indicator fails to illuminate at times. (This, too, is a somewhat random problem that doesn't necessarily happen at the same time as the air bag warning light turning on.

In addition, I have noticed that the clock sometimes resets to 1:00. There has been no disconnection of the battery or any other interruption of power from the battery that I know of prior to this occurring.

And finally, several years ago I was driving at highway speeds (about 60 mph) and when I went over a railroad crossing on the country road I was travelling, the entire electrical system stopped work (no engine, no instrument panel, no turn signals). This has only happened that one time.

Something that I have observed regarding the airbag warning light is that when I place pressure at certain points on the steering wheel, I can sometimes make the warning light turn off if it is on, or turn on if it is off. (Please stick with me on this one.) I have driven quite a bit on business, and occasionally I will use my left knee to put pressure on the bottom of the steering wheel (at approximately the 7 o'clock position). I have found recently when I do that the warning light almost always comes on. Likewise, if I grasp the steering wheel at approximately the 1 o'clock position and use a little force to pull the steering wheel toward the steering column, I can get the warning light to go off most of the time if it is already known.

(I have noticed a slight give in the steering column when I pull toward the center of the steering wheel, like maybe the shaft or the bearing is moving slightly.)

My gut instinct tells me that this is probably a ground problem, or possibly a loose connection. I would like to correct the problem myself rather than have the dealer charge me for this.

Any thoughts on where I might begin troubleshooting these problems would be appreciated. (Or, maybe it is one interconnected problem.)

Thanks

Jeff

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Jeff; You may be right on, regarding a ground issue. I don't see any other connection. As far as the Air Bag Lamp and the looseness in the column....We call that tilt-a-tosis. Fairly easy fix, but have to go into the column, itself, which means dealing with the air bag. You may have a clockspring problem, which can be diagnosed at the same time. But, I don't see that having anything to do with the instrument illumination. There are some guys in here that are really sharp with electrical. Hopefully, one or more will jump in...

Response From Jeff09

Hi Loren,

Thanks for your post.

I've never played around with the steering columns of cars that are new enough to have airbags. I would like to think that there is a way to disarm them. Is this pretty straight forward, or do you think it is best left in the hands of people with experience?

I'm hoping that this problem is unique enough that someone else might recognize it from something that have seen in the past.

Thanks again for your post.

I'll let you know if I find anything.

Jeff

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Jeff; With everything that is going on, I think I'd have to swallow my pride and have someone that is very good with electrical look at it. The air bag costs about $1000.00 to replace if it gets damaged or blows up in your face.
These newer cars are so complicated, electronically, that it is scary. Tom has suggested in the past to run an artificial ground from the dash to the framework on some of these intermittent things. You could, at least, try that to see if it may solve your illumination problem.

Response From Jeff09

Hi Loren,

Thanks for your second reply.

On Saturday evening I was checking for ground connections at the fire wall and at the battery. I was also moving the steering wheel as I had described in an earlier message. During part of this exercise the clock reset to 1:00, which I am thinking probabaly happened because I broke the ground momentarily. I did'nt realize the clock had reset until yesterday afternoon. I will go through that same process more slowly and see if I can identify which action caused the clock to reset.

If you are interested, I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again for your help.

Jeff

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Jeff; Yeah, that would be great to know what you find. Never know, might help out someone else, in the future.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I agree that it's likely a grounding issue. Try looking for the metal to body fasteners of the dash, steering column will have some and just see if they are all snug tight.

Not sure how hard you hit tracks back when but maybe there's a complete disconnect at the power distribution box (fuses etc) underhood. I think battery ground cable also goes down that side (driver's) to the side of the engine block for a check there as well. Any ground straps need be connected and not broken of course. I think you may see one or more at back of engine to firewall and somthing on passenger's side down low engine or body to frame for grounding as well,

T

Response From Jeff09

Hi Tom,

Thanks for all of the great suggestions.

I will take a look at any ground connections I can find.

Thanks for the quick response, too.

I'll keep you posted.

Jeff