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Bosch
1999 BMW 318is Starter Motor 4 Cyl 1.9L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-3195B4E    SR0448X  Remanufactured

Qty:
$40.00 $126.73
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - BMW 318is L 4 Cyl 1.9L - 1895
Bosch
2003 BMW Z8 Starter Motor 8 Cyl 4.8L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-1EE4C56    SR0446X  Remanufactured

Qty:
$65.00 $170.28
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.7
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - BMW Z8 V 8 Cyl 4.8L - 4837
Bosch
2005 BMW 320i Starter Motor 6 Cyl 2.2L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-3195B4E    SR0448X  Remanufactured

Qty:
$40.00 $126.73
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part Bosch, only as replacement for Bosch equipment
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - BMW 320i L 6 Cyl 2.2L 132 2171
Bosch
2012 BMW Z4 Starter Motor 6 Cyl 3.0L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-0AD983E    SR0492X  Remanufactured

12412354701

Qty:
$75.00 $127.73
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.1
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2012 - BMW Z4 sDrive35i L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2979
Bosch
2011 BMW 128i Starter Motor 6 Cyl 3.0L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-0AD983E    SR0492X  Remanufactured

12412354701

Qty:
$75.00 $127.73
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part To 02/2011
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.1
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - BMW 128i L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2996
Denso
2016 BMW Alpina B6 Gran Coupe Starter Motor Denso

P311-3FB25F0    W0133-2130733  New

Qty:
$524.72
  • First Time Fit
  • New
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - BMW Alpina B6 Gran Coupe
Denso
2018 BMW X6 Starter Motor 6 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-4352AA9    W0133-2130734  New

Qty:
$422.06
  • First Time Fit
  • New
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - BMW X6 L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2979
Bosch
2015 BMW 335i xDrive Starter Motor Bosch - New

P311-2696671    W0133-1934615  New

Qty:
$277.07
Bosch Starter Motor
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Remanufactured : with Auto Start/Stop Function (S1CCA)
  • New
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2015 - BMW 335i xDrive Manual
Bosch
2015 BMW 335i xDrive Starter Motor Bosch - Reman

P311-2696671    W0133-1934615  New

Qty:
$277.07
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured : with Auto Start/Stop Function (S1CCA)
  • Reman
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2015 - BMW 335i xDrive Manual
Bosch
2016 BMW 428i Starter Motor Bosch - New

P311-2696671    W0133-1934615  New

Qty:
$277.07
Bosch Starter Motor
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Remanufactured : Bosch
  • New
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2016 - BMW 428i Manual

Latest Bmw Repair and Starter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

bmw540i

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on bmw540i

1995 540i bmw won't start. Give it starter fluid into throttle body runs til fuel is gone, pulled gas lines no fuel apparent please help

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Do you hear a fuel pump buzzing? If not check fuses and relays for it. If it does buzz you should take a pressure reading at the fuel rail,

T

bmw starter and free rooling in gear

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From shadetree charly on bmw starter and free rooling in gear

help styfulled 1989 bmw 528e 6 cyl while driving along apox 35 mph car died and i coasted to a stop tried to start but starter whines dose not engadge flywheel also while automatic transmission is in any gear (r1234n) car rolls efertlessly either direction expm while in 1 car easily push car backwards never had any starter problems battery is new and full charged gears appear to be engadging while looking at the lever on trany i did note drive shaft rotates while tires roll also the was no jurk or pop or sound of any kind when she died never had any poblems with her for last 5 years can someone enlighten me where to look next

Response From Discretesignals

Well as for being able to roll the car around with it in gear with the engine turned off, that is entirely normal on an automatic transmission equipped vehicle.


What you need to focus on is getting the starting system back up. If you can hear the starter running, but it doesn't engage the flywheel to turn the crankshaft, you need to have the starter motor inspected.

The starter won't cause your stalling problem, but you need to have the starter operational to be able to diagnose the stalling problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If, If with this that perhaps starter's solenoid just isn't throwing out the little gear at the "flywheel" OR starter drive can't grab - either can just give you the hmmmm of just the starter. The later will usually fail slowly, not all at once.

A wild maybe is whacking the solenoid a bit carefully with a hammer might make it work but not the fix just a maybe to get it going. If so get it where you want it right away.

Problem could also be all teeth are somehow gone on the flywheel as DS said turn the engine by whatever means works to get to better or intact teeth but somehow I doubt that's the trouble,

T

1988 BMW 735A solenoid, starter, or alternator???

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From DMMcCloskey on 1988 BMW 735A solenoid, starter, or alternator???

Car is a 1988 BMW 735A...
When driving for short distances if the car starts and you turn off the key it usually will not restart. There is no clicking that I can hear. Battery is new. Have taken it to mechanic and he just said he couldn't get it to not start...

Also if you are trying to start it and you don't get the engine to turn over and start and you turn the key back to the off position it will not start then. You can come back later (hours) and it will start then no problem.

Where to start. I would rather not take the starter out to take it to get tested if at all possible. Once it has decided to not start that is it until you give it hours to do whatever it is doing and then voila just like that no problem starts right up.

As long as you drive long distances or don't turn off the engine for more than a few seconds it will start right back up. This morning again my husband had to take our minivan to work, leaving me stranded with 5 kids to get to school and no car or buses.... Help a girl out would you... Thanks all

Response From Hammer Time

It could be any number of things but it has to be tested while the failure is present.

Response From DMMcCloskey

When we tried to do this it started right back up. The poor mechanic tried all day to turn it off and on move it around. Let it run... Nothing.

So how to test, how at home I guess is the question. I am a daughter of mechanic so with the right guidance I can find my way around under the hood of the car. Where would be the best place to start testing. Plain speak... Testing for dummies I suppose.

Is there a good place to find a diagram of this, I don't have a manual such as Chilton, etc. The car is new to us, borrowing from brother. He lives too far away to help as does my dad. I really don't have the money to hire a mechanic. We just got done paying a huge towing bill for our Ford Windstar. It left us stranded many miles from home when the transmission seal blew, $440... OUCH! 5 kids and me a stay at home mom... You get the pic.

Response From Hammer Time

Electrical diagnostic on a BMW with no electrical knowledge? .......... I really don't think so.

Someone needs to follow a wiring diagram and test various components while it's dead.

Response From DMMcCloskey

How do you learn but to do. I need only a place to start. I have been researching and I will start without your help. I really am quite a capable person, self taught and all... I lived under a hood as a teen, but cars have changed and I always worked on american made not imports. With engine compartments big enough to climb into. I am not a painted finger nail and lip gloss kinda girl, although I've been told I clean up good once I get all the grease out from under my nails....

Response From Hammer Time

OK, so I guess you just inherited the understanding of how electrical circuits work and how to test them without feeding back a $1000 module and having to replace it.

Here, go for it

Response From DMMcCloskey

Thanks smarty pants. I was thinking more along the lines of where to start. On another post where it was a man I'm sure you started with a 1, 2, 3 etc. As in begin here, proceed to this once you have checked this.... I found the info on another website. I just have to wait for my hubby to get home to get a ride to get a voltmeter. Chauvinistic much??? My body may not be as strong as yours but my hands are much more delicately designed than yours(capable of getting into spots yours can't), and well as far as brains God made both of ours. Perhaps you should try using yours next time and be helpful with the knowledge you have....

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

OK, you want to run your mouth like a typical dumb ass so I deleted my wiring diagrams. Get your diagrams elsewhere, or better yet, try fixing it without them.

Your question is now closed.

Response From DMMcCloskey

My 8 year old saw the name of the site and thinks you should change it to JunkyCar.com... Little humor to lighten the mood Off to walk them to school. Hope someone can help. Just tried to start again. It has been almost 2 hours nothing. No click and all the lights are lit, not even dim.

Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From JeffC on Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

I recently noticed a very slow oil leak which a garage tells me is coming from the rear crankshaft oil seal. It had apparently leaked into my starter motor which had started to fail and has now been replaced. To avoid another starter failure I need to correct the leak and would appreciate your views on:

- Use of oil additives to stop leaks. Are they safe to use and do they work

- Possibility of an oil breather problem causing pressure build up (Its the N47 diesel engine)

- Is it highly likey it is the crankshaft seal and I should just shell out and get it replaced

- How much would you think for full job?

Really appreciate your advice


Jeff

Response From Discretesignals

That vehicle is no sold here in the states, so advice is limited.

Did the shop check the operation of the PCV system to be sure it is working?

If you don't feel comfortable with the shop's diagnosis, you could always get a second opinion.

There are additives that can condition seals, but unlikely it would stop a worn out seal or seal with too much pressure behind it from leaking.

Response From JeffC

I asked about pressure build up but this was never checked out. I have just been looking at my Haynes manual and it talks about a crankcase pressure limiting valve. Is this the same as the PCV. The manual doesn't Seem to mention a PCV. Definately getting a second opinion on this. Thanks for your help.

Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just FYI on what PCV = "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" is about.


Blow-by of gasses gets into the vapor areas above oil in oil pans (sump as you called it) and anywhere oil and air are including inside valve covers. What's confused is that "positive" is really making a very slight vacuum in the entire area via the PCV system that also removes that vapor and burns it so should show a very slight vacuum that you can usually measure thru a dipstick tube for oil with engine just idling.


Smoke from a source - incense stick, cigarette if not windy is a quick "hillbilly" way to watch that. If crankcase is under pressure rather than vacuum (just 1/2 of one Hg or so) it will find places to blow oil vapor out like a leak and make real oil (some) show up like a real problem leak and may not be or may be plain excessive blow-by.
If the system is plugged up, broken in some way as DS here suggested can cause the leak which will naturally go to lowest spot if enough to drip.


Rear main seals (in general now on most engines - for decades any make) a "rear main" seal does have a "very limited leak" by design to lubricate it. It would have ONE drop in that location on many and not a problem but not enough to mess up a starter so there's a problem.


How extensive is yet unknown to me. It's my opinion that if a rear main seal is plain worn out that bearing of a crankshaft are the common reason - totally not good! The free motion of a crankshaft because of worn bearings IMO is marking the end of an engine! Either that or a fix would mean either re-machining crank fitted with new properly sized bearings I still consider a patch not along life (many years) fix.


Why? Bad oil pumps, run low on oil, neglect or abuse on the list.


There's also bad luck with a seal. BMW anything isn't known to me for this nor neglect especially this new.


This is why my first thought was a second look or opinion - that's all,


T

Response From JeffC

Hi Tom

You suggested a test for crankcase pressure which I wanted to report back on. When I took the dipstick out there was definately no vacuum. Smoke could be seen rising out of the dipstick tube in fact. I checked the breather hoses and found one from the valve on top of the engine to the air intake to be perished and leaking. I just wanted to check if you think this would be the cause of the pressure build up and the cause of my crankshaft oil seal leak. I have a picture of the damaged hose.



Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jeff - This is primal for an internal combustion engine since forever. This case you see a hose in need. That alone could be your whole problem. Fix that then proceed back to even that "hillbilly" smoke test.


FYI - The gasses that normally pass by rings must be vented OUT of engines, once to the ground via a tube now long, long time captured and burned, regulated by a PCV system and clean air allowed in to replace what was drawn out but leaving crankcase in such a slight vacuum not pressure or it would seek the easiest way to blow out an oily mist and show as a leak very real and active or just a mess. I can't say where is the weakest spot but a newer vehicle that didn't have a neglect problem, or overwhelmed with blow-by from wear would just pick to vent where it could even back up to air intake parts.


That mist has to get removed or engine would suffer from very poor quality vapors with oil in them and gasses that would quickly ruin the oil, lubrication of anything oil lubricates.


For now - let's save the design reasons and find out it fixing that hose will solve this. Then just change out the oil and test again that the system is in fact working.


If a seal anywhere was damaged (can't say right now) it might not leak or IDK - you would slow it down at least by all odds.


FYI: Sealing things for engine oil include the pressure sensor, gaskets anywhere like valve covers, intake possible, oil pan gasket(s) front and rear seals as well. Those two are meant to seep just a drop a day such that they don't burn out being dry. If all is good not enough to show up much at all as more than a dirty spot over some time.


The real fear I have is if something went wrong and it is in fact a rear main it's frequently because engine's crank bearings allow too much motion/wobble in worn bearings which is close to an impossible thing to cure or make as good as it would be from new ever again!


If that it should also show as slow oil pressure build up when started from cold. To me that marks the beginning of the end of that engine but don't freak out just yet.


Fix that hose. Get BMW specialty help for things that are likely on this engine to fool the diagnosis not just the "all engines need this idea by design" things I've mentioned as you may also have oil temp sensor(s) and coolers I wouldn't know of for this,


Tom

Response From JeffC

Thank you again Tom. You have been an incredible help. I will change the hose and keep you posted on progress.

Best wishes

Jeff

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I can't speak for diesel engines but I can tell you that a bad rear main in BMW gas engines is very rare.
Valve cover leaks are very common however.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No additives - period! Second opinion on the source suggested.


Some (IDK each ones) - put alloy oil pans too low not protected and can crack and fool you.


I'm not a "Beamer Specialist" sometimes required. Basics on an oil leak it YOU know it has one is to look for highest and most forward areas that show oil dampness - should be from there,


T

Response From JeffC

Thanks for you advise Tom. I am pretty sure the leak is right down at the bottom of the engine since I can see no evidence at all higher up. I will get a second opinion as you suggest and get the sump checked out.

Jeff

1998 bmw 528i 2.6

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From dcheba68 on 1998 bmw 528i 2.6

car wont start I charged
the battery up and then when I went to turn the key on there was no power all the dash lights went dim

Response From dcheba68

I did put a new battery in it and it did the same thing like the battery went dead or it don't have enough to turn it over

Response From Hammer Time

You'll have to start systematically testing the circuit with a wiring diagram. You could start out by testing for power arriving at the small trigger wire at the starter when the key is held in "start" position.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmmm? Battery cables come to mind and connections both at the battery and what should be at engine block and starter.


Guess but is the battery under the back seat of this car? If so cables are even longer and nothing is any better than the weakest link along the way,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Have the battery tested first to see if it's any good.