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We stock Spark Plug parts for most Smart models, including Fortwo.

Bosch
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Bosch - Nickel

P311-2E7C2FF    YR7NE  New

Qty:
$7.74
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Bosch Nickel with Copper-Core Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036 in Original equipment is nickel
  • Nickel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Nickel-yttrium And Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: N/a
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Insulator Material: Ceramic
    • Insulator Type: Non-projected
    • Pre-Gap Size: .9
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 6000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Spark Plug Type: 4-cycle
  • Bosch conventional Nickel-Copper Spark Plugs are designed to deliver performance and value. Heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced nickel center electrode with copper core provides a longer lasting copper core spark plug. Engineered to meet or exceed Original Equipment specifications for nickel-copper core spark plugs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Champion
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Champion - Champion Iridium

P311-59A617F    9409  New

9409

Qty:
$11.30
  • Champion Iridium- Boxed - RER8WMB
  • Plug Type RER8WMPB 2 Plugs Per Cylinder Required Gap .036"
  • Champion Iridium
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium Firing Tip
    • Classification: Champion Iridium
    • Electrical Terminal Type: Removable Nut
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Platinum Pad Surface
    • Hex Size:
      • 0.625
      • 16.000
    • Plug Type: Rer8wmb
    • Pre-Gap Size:
      • 0.033
      • 0.85
    • Reach: 1.043
    • Thread Diameter:
      • 0.472
      • 12.000
  • Champion Iridium - the ultimate element. This spark plug's fine-wire iridium center and platinum ground electrodes provide the sharpest spark focus for maximum performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Champion
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Denso
2009 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Denso - Iridium Power

P311-33F184B    5353  New

6800 5667AB , 132 159 01 03 , 1822A010 , IXUH22 , 1822A011 , 004 159 18 03 , 004 159 49 03 , 132 159 02 03 , 004 159 58 03 , 132 159 00 03 , 004 159 44 03

Qty:
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Iridium Power
  • Gap 0.035 Iridium Power - Performance Upgrade with Worlds Smallest Center Electrode (0.4 mm Dia.) & Tapered Tip Patented U-Groove Design & Patented Ir Alloy (90% Ir)
  • Iridium Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium Rhodium Alloy
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapercut, U-groove
    • Hex Size: 16.0
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.035
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
  • Increased performance with World's smallest Iridium Center Eletrode (0.4mm).
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Denso
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Denso - U-Groove Conventional

P311-4657011    3445  New

XU22HDR9 , 132 159 02 03 , 132 159 01 03 , 132 159 00 03

Qty:
$7.89
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Standard
  • Gap 0.035 ACTUAL OE PART;;; DENSO is O.E. Manufacturer / Resistor Plug
  • U-Groove Conventional
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Hex Size: 16.0
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.035
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
  • U-Groove design provides better ignitability for increased engine efficiency.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Denso
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Denso - Iridium Long Life

P311-347B704    3441  New

004 159 49 03 , 132 159 02 03 , 132 159 01 03 , 1822A010 , 004 159 58 03 , 004 159 44 03 , 1822A011 , SXU22HDR8 , 004 159 18 03 , 132 159 00 03 , 6800 5667AB

Qty:
$13.00
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Iridium Long-Life
  • Gap 0.032 Iridium Long Life - Patented Iridium Alloy Plug (90% Ir) with Platinum Ground Strap
  • Iridium Long Life
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium-rhodium Alloy
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Platinum Chip
    • Hex Size: 16.0
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.032
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
  • Manufactured to the strictest OE performance, durability and emissions standards.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Denso
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L Denso - Iridium Power

P311-33F184B    5353  New

6800 5667AB , 132 159 01 03 , 1822A010 , IXUH22 , 1822A011 , 004 159 18 03 , 004 159 49 03 , 132 159 02 03 , 004 159 58 03 , 132 159 00 03 , 004 159 44 03

Qty:
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Iridium Power
  • Gap 0.035 Iridium Power - Performance Upgrade with World's Smallest Center Electrode (0.4 mm Dia.) & Tapered Tip Patented U-Groove Design & Patented Ir Alloy (90% Ir)
  • Iridium Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium Rhodium Alloy
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapercut, U-groove
    • Hex Size: 16.0
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.035
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
  • Increased performance with World's smallest Iridium Center Eletrode (0.4mm).
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
NGK
2010 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L NGK - Standard Spark Plug

P311-05E37C1    5847  New

A 132 159 00 03 , XU22HDR9 , 3445 , B2401-6A00F , 5847 , YR7NE , 1822A036

Qty:
$8.86
  • NGK Standard Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036" Actual OE Part
  • Standard Spark Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper Core
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Core
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Hex Size: 5/8
    • Insulator Height: 50.00
    • Part Number: Lkr7b-9
    • Pre-Gap Size: .036
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Stock Number: 5847
    • Thread Diameter: 12.00
  • NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), Inc. is the largest OE supplier and manufacturer of spark plugs for domestic and import vehicles in North America. Its OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™. With over 80 years of automotive expertise NGK has built a reputation for quality and reliability; manufacturing spark plugs for virtually every automotive, motorcycle, marine and small engine application. We are committed to be the premier partner with our customers, while maintaining original equipment standards for the highest durability and operational performance. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and across the globe, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 3
    • Most jobs typically require 3 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
NGK
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L NGK - Iridium IX Spark Plug

P311-3763B5E    93911  New

SAB330NG1709 , 93911 , 08040-K9000 , 9060 , 9409 , XP5703 , 5353 , XP5701 , XP5702 , 5356 , 9023 , IXUH22I , BY480-LKR7A , IXUH22

Qty:
$12.09
  • NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036"
  • Iridium IX Spark Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper Core
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Core
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Taper Cut
    • Hex Size: 5/8
    • Insulator Height: 50.00
    • Part Number: Lkr7aix
    • Pre-Gap Size: .032
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Stock Number: 93911
    • Thread Diameter: 12.00
  • NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), Inc. is the largest OE supplier and manufacturer of spark plugs for domestic and import vehicles in North America. Its OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™. With over 80 years of automotive expertise NGK has built a reputation for quality and reliability; manufacturing spark plugs for virtually every automotive, motorcycle, marine and small engine application. We are committed to be the premier partner with our customers, while maintaining original equipment standards for the highest durability and operational performance. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and across the globe, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
NGK
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L NGK - Laser Iridium Spark Plug

P311-44026AC    1989  New

9691 , 1989 , 1822A011 , 3441 , 9407 , B2401-6A00D , RER8ZWYCB4 , SXU22HDR8

Qty:
$12.83
  • NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036"
  • Laser Iridium Spark Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper Core
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Iridium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Core
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Hex Size: 5/8
    • Insulator Height: 50.00
    • Part Number: Ilkr7b8
    • Pre-Gap Size: .032
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Stock Number: 1989
    • Thread Diameter: 12.00
  • NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), Inc. is the largest OE supplier and manufacturer of spark plugs for domestic and import vehicles in North America. Its OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™. With over 80 years of automotive expertise NGK has built a reputation for quality and reliability; manufacturing spark plugs for virtually every automotive, motorcycle, marine and small engine application. We are committed to be the premier partner with our customers, while maintaining original equipment standards for the highest durability and operational performance. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and across the globe, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
NGK
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L NGK - G-Power Spark Plug

P311-330E7B5    95983  New

95983

Qty:
$8.03
  • NGK G-Power Platinum Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036"
  • G-Power Spark Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper Core
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Platinum
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Core
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Trapezoid
    • Hex Size: 5/8
    • Insulator Height: 51.00
    • Part Number: Lkr7bgp-8
    • Pre-Gap Size: .032
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Stock Number: 95983
    • Thread Diameter: 12.00
  • NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), Inc. is the largest OE supplier and manufacturer of spark plugs for domestic and import vehicles in North America. Its OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™. With over 80 years of automotive expertise NGK has built a reputation for quality and reliability; manufacturing spark plugs for virtually every automotive, motorcycle, marine and small engine application. We are committed to be the premier partner with our customers, while maintaining original equipment standards for the highest durability and operational performance. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and across the globe, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
NGK
2015 Smart Fortwo Spark Plug 3 Cyl 1.0L NGK - Standard Spark Plug

P311-05E37C1    5847  New

A 132 159 00 03 , XU22HDR9 , 3445 , B2401-6A00F , 5847 , YR7NE , 1822A036

Qty:
$8.86
  • NGK Standard Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.036" Actual OE Part 30,000 mi OE Mfr Recommended Service Interval
  • Standard Spark Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper Core
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Core
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Hex Size: 5/8
    • Insulator Height: 50.00
    • Part Number: Lkr7b-9
    • Pre-Gap Size: .036
    • Reach: 26.5
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Stock Number: 5847
    • Thread Diameter: 12.00
  • NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), Inc. is the largest OE supplier and manufacturer of spark plugs for domestic and import vehicles in North America. Its OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™. With over 80 years of automotive expertise NGK has built a reputation for quality and reliability; manufacturing spark plugs for virtually every automotive, motorcycle, marine and small engine application. We are committed to be the premier partner with our customers, while maintaining original equipment standards for the highest durability and operational performance. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and across the globe, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 3
    • Most jobs typically require 3 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000

Latest Smart Repair and Spark Plug Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Serpentine belt and spark plud thread tricks

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From keval85 on Serpentine belt and spark plud thread tricks

Hi everyone I just joined the forum because my Grampa gave me his old 94 Ford Ranger.The tricks I would like to share is when I had noise coming from my serpentine belt on my truck I thought it was the tensioner but Grampa just poured some water on the belt when the engine was running and the noise instantly went away he said it needed a new belt because if the noise didn't go away it was likely a bad bearing.Put a new belt on and it is quiet now.I thought that was a pretty good trick for everyone to know.He also told me to put graphite no seize on the spark plug threads so they will be easier to remove when it is time to change them,Old Gramps is 81 but he sure is a smart man

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Yup, Gramps still has some smoke on the old fast ball.....I use both of those with some slight variations but basically the same things...

You got a good source for info there, take advantage & pick his brain.

Did he ever turn wrenches professionally and if he did when did he get out of the field?

Oh........and Welcome to the forum, grab a beer & make yourself at home.......

Response From re-tired

US GRAMPS SURE AM SMART AINT WE W2O ?

Response From way2old

OH I forgot----

Response From way2old

Gramps gave you some advice that will help diagnose fairly quickly. Both of thosw are good tips. However there is always an exception. Keep listening to him. Welcome to the forum and feel free to jump in.

Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From amp123dime on Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Hi, So my 1994 mercury sable 3.0L engine just stopped driving down the highway. Got it home. Assumed fuel pump was bad. Replaced fuel pump (it was clearly bad) & the Powertrain control module (clearly fried). Still wouldn't start. Bought a new distributor and replaced. Had Autozone check the ignition coil, and test the ignition control module. They tested like they were suppose to within range. Replaced the distributor cap spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Just for reference also replaced fuel filter, thermostat, water pump, power steering pump, battery all within a month prior to this issue occuring as well.

Im determined to fix this just don't know what else would prevent the engine from firing up

Response From Hammer Time



Well, if you keep throwing parts at it the way you have been you may eventually hit it and then you may waste a lot more money too.

Here's the way it is done.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From nickwarner

What was the fuel pressure on your "fried" pump? What was the voltage at its connector? What was the ohm reading of its ground circuit? If the PCM was a suspect, what was the criteria for condemning it? If these parts were both bad at the exact same time it would be the first I've seen.

Response From amp123dime

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel

Response From amp123dime

Not getting a spark. The rotor turns. I guess the next step is to find someone with a scan tool and check the computer codes. Not sure what else it could be. Unless the autozone tests of the ignition control module and ignition coil were misleading me and one of them is bad.

Response From amp123dime

Also wasnt just throwing parts at it. tested the fuel pump by jumping power to it to determine it was bad. The Powertrain control module you could smell the fried electrical and actually broke it open and saw the burnt relays. Then it was a matter of why it wasn't getting spark when I had done a tune-up earlier in the month. Replaced the distributor because after checking the ignition control module and ignition coil. They really wasn't much else left but the pick up coil. Buying a new distributor was much easier than changing out the pick up coil. Plus the distributor gear was worn anyhow.

Response From Hammer Time

You keep trying to justify changing all these parts that didn't fix anything and you still refuse to follow the exact instructions given so you're going to be looking for this problem for a long time.

We deal with guys like you that think they have all the shortcuts and don't test the way we ask all the time. I don't plan on riding your merry-go-round.

Response From nickwarner

Testing fuel pressure doesn't mean you have fuel, it means you have the potential for it IF the pcm triggers the injectors to deliver it and the injectors are capable of delivering the said fuel into the intake. Along with that you have to have sufficient vacuum to draw it into the cylinder and then fire it only if you have the correct compression and spark at the correct time. Checking the pressure was a good idea, but I see no mention of a test of injector pulse with a noid light. You could be condemning an ignition part because it wasn't triggered by the PCM to create a spark due to lack of signal from a crank sensor. Thats why we test the way we do and in the order we do. When you bill by flat rate you have to be efficient with your time. We are efficient and doing it our way saves you time and money. We are the pros you are trying not to take your car to. We are giving you the knowledge to do this yourself for free. Even Houdini wouldn't show you where the rabbit goes.

Response From Hammer Time

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel


I don't recall seeing a fuel pressure reading.

Response From amp123dime

I appreciate the responses. By no means am I a professional mechanic. The cost of a professional mechanic to solve for this is more than the cars value. I appreciate the FREE advice :) Fuel pressure aside. Bottom line is I am not getting a spark I have 12volts constant on both terminals of the ignition coil. One of the terminals should pulse. Other than the ignition control module what would prevent the ignition coil from pulsing ?

Response From Hammer Time

OK, you just said in a nutshell what i have believed to be true all along. You're blowing off our instructions, taking your own route and lieing about the results.


I don't have time to be wasted like this. If you can't or won't follow instructions, fix it yourself. There are other people that need help that will.

Response From amp123dime

WOW,, I didn't lie about anything. If you don't want to help that is OK. you don't have to. What specific instruction did I not follow ? Testing the fuel pressure ? I don't see a need for that when my current issue I am hoping to solve is why I am not getting a spark. Can't ignite fuel without a spark

Response From Hammer Time

I gave you a specific list of tests and you blew them off.

You haven't proven you have fuel pressure, you haven't proven you have injector pulse, You haven't even proven you have power supply to anything. There's nothing harder to do that try to help someone that thinks he knows more than he does.

You're on your own.

Response From amp123dime

Well hammer time if you get off the merry go round. Thats OK. I know I have fuel pressure because before I changed the fuel pump I pushed the pin where you attach the pressure gauge and no fuel came out. After changing the fuel pump I pushed that same pin and fuel shot out about 10 feet. Not the best method but didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge and it worked. Not testing anything else related to fuel pressure because.. I HAVE NO SPARK

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Gee, i wish I was as smart as you. Maybe you should work for Autozone. You would fit right in there.

Response From Discretesignals

Just to let you know. If you test for injector pulse and you have it, that tells you:

*The ignition module has power and ground
*The hall effect sensor in the distributor is producing a digital position signal to the ignition module.

If you have no trigger at the coil ground circuit and your PIPs going out, you can pretty much conclude the ignition module transistor circuitry died.

All ya had to do was answer those simple questions that was provided and there wouldn't have been so much heart ache. Good luck.

Response From Discretesignals

If you test for injector pulse as HT stated, that would tell you if the ignition module is sending a PIP signal to the engine controller. That helps to know because it eliminates a lot of things.

Response From amp123dime

Also every part I changed did Fix something that was wrong. The parts I changed weren't expensive and were needed. The other parts I have not changed related to not sparking are the ignition coil and ignition control module. Haven't changed those because I am not sure their is something wrong with those parts

Response From amp123dime

The fuel pump was bad. the screen inside was gone and the teeth on the gears in the fuel pump were shot. Also one of the wires attached to the pump didn't have a solid connection. The power control module was definately fried you could smell the burnt electrical. And there was a burnt hole in the control board of the power control module.

did the spark plug test and its not getting a spark. at all. Had my mechanic friend bring his voltage meter and tested that everything was within range. I was told at the auto parts store that coil should pulse. I am getting 12 volts on both of the posts of the ignition coil. Leading us to believe the ignition control module is bad. Even though it tested fine at the auto parts store.

2004 kia rio

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From tony long on 2004 kia rio

2004 Kia rio 16v it cut off and i couldn't get it to crack back so i was told i needed a starter so i put one on now i still can't get it to crack i checked the timing it's ok its get gas i checked the spark plugs there good any ideas

Response From Discretesignals

Why don't you proof read your sentences instead of making yourself look like an idiot. If you don't take your time to use proper spelling and grammar, why should we take our time in giving you advice?

Response From tony long Top Rated Answer

Smart ass i already did and cause i spelled a word wrong you want to talk down to me get over your self and give good ideas and no you must be the crackhead you point it out cause the word crank was spell wrong so I'm just saying

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sill waiting for the the results of your testing what dropped out,
T
PS: Fatterly already got you where you are..........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What's with this word "crack?" So some crack head told you it needed and starter that wasn't the problem.


Try following some common sense. I doubt you know how to check timing or spark plugs.
Follow this intended for all crank no start situations and see what is missing and report back. If you can't do this car repair isn't for you.
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/IF_YOUR_STARTER_CRANKS_THE_ENGINE_BUT_IT_WILL_NOT_START_P75655/


T

No Magic out there....

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Tom Greenleaf on No Magic out there....

Spark plugs: Some expensive plugs claim to give you 10% better economy and more power. BULL!! Some will last longer in an old s**t box but in 40 years I've seen no difference in performance. Think..... the car maker would have done that if that easy.!!

I'm not into performance but can say you can mess with exhaust, intake and camshafts and get tons more power. MPGs NO! The newer your car the better off you are to stay with OEM stuff. T

Response From tusseltussel

i was always taught: A\c delco for gm cars autolite for fords and have owned a few fords that ran like s**t with A\C and great with autolite so i stick with that ac for gm's autolite for fords.. thats my opinion

Response From way2old

If you think a little, you will see the "gimmick" plugs are just that. How many paths can one spark take to ground? 1,2 4, or a complete circle of constant spark. One spark can only travel to one ground, so the 4 prong theory is bogus from the start. It might make it so the ground electrodes do not wear out as fast, but all I have seen installed were removed before there was any chance of wear.

Response From dave284

I always thought that too W2O, its a money gimmick, 2,3,4 prongs theres the same amount of spark in one prong the only difference is heat tolerance, I never seen any real evidence far as better gas milage.

Response From carjunky Top Rated Answer

Good point Tom. It's hard to look past all the "Poster Facts" you may get a brighter spark, but when driving, there are sooo many other factors that you can do to get you more mpg.... tire pressure, oils, exhaust to name a few...

smart driving is the biggest,

Response From CTC01

The old drag racers trick of "Indexing" the plugs was good for around 1/10 of a sec. Dont believe it did squat for MPG though.

I tell folks the most important things they can do for fuel economy is tire pressure, air filter and drive easy on the gas pedal.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yeh, I know the drag racers do this but for the average grocery getter car I don't think it helps. T

93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..

Showing 2 out of 44 Posts | Show 42 Hidden Posts
Question From alienshadow on 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..

Hey I am having some issues here with my 93 chevy truck.. When at a stop light truck may sputter a little.. Also when giving gas and truck shifts into second it sputters sometimes.. I run 93 fuel it has new spark plugs new temp sensor new distributor cap.. I am not a mechanic but I have invested alot in this old truck.. It dosent cut off just sputters... I know its not a misfire because it would do it all the time correct?????
Any advice would be really helpful if you need more details please let me know.. Engine has been rebuilt and Trans also..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's a host of things that could cause this. Plug wires, contact to coil in cap, vacuum leaks and the list goes on. You are wasting $$ not getting it diagnosed which should be fairly easy and will probably trash VERY expensive converter(s) if you wait much longer. Penny wise can be pound foolish,

T

Response From alienshadow

Thanks Tom but the problem is when I take it it dosent do it.. Go figure.. I am hoping if I replace the spark plug wires it will solve it..To expensive to get charged by the hour and not know no more than I know now...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Understood - If it won't act up when you test stuff it's guessing only which gets expensive -- Murphy's Law - it will be the last thing and most expensive item, it's a mechanical known! Kidding.

Try spraying (carefully as it can flash fire) carb cleaner looking for leaks. If one found it will change idle. Cool engine and don't over do it if attempted. That for vacuum leaks - hoses and gaskets to throttle body, intake to head gaskets and egr -- anything that seals vacuum could cause erratic issues and could be intermittent.

Spray slightly salted water on plug wires and high voltage items, again while on cool side and if dark you may see some arcing of electricity which is a problem area.

Clean out throttle body with carb or throttle body cleaner (same stuff really)

Keep looking. If codes available get them read for direction. They don't always say exactly what but can lead the way to the fix,

T

Response From nickwarner

By the way, you can save your money on the premium gas. Its not helping you. This engine was designed for optimum running on 87 octane. The octane number is a measurement of the fuel's RESISTANCE to burning. The reason hot rods and higher end cars run them is they have higher compression, superchargers, turbos, things which raise the cylinder pressures. So they need a fuel that is harder to light and doesn't burn as well to prevent preignition. Especially since these cars have more aggressive timing. Unless you've really hopped up the motor there is no reason to run this fuel. Believe it or not, you will actually run better on the regular 87 octane

Response From alienshadow

Thanks Nick, I started using 93 due to the sputter I thought my injectors were clogged.. So I put greased lightning in the tank which is a 12000 mile treatment.. Today I went out and bought a set of Accel spark plug wires part number 5114k.. I hope this solves my issue.. I had the trans man check his stuff out and no problems with it..I am at a lost as to what is causing this sputter and I am sick of putting money into this truck but I am a sucker for older trucks plus they are easy to work on... Nick the engine was bored out when it was rebuilt thats all I know that was done extra when the rebuilt took place.. Still use 87 right? Also any suggestions on the sputter would be great I will be putting the plugs on in the next day or so.. Spark plugs where changed back in the summer months so I will stick with them...

Response From nickwarner

I'd still stay with the 87. Your engine was bored out at overhaul because the cylinders were too worn to properly seal on stock pistons and rings. I had my 351W in a truck bored .030 because of this but the diameter of the piston, not the compression height, was all that changed. Therefore the compression ratio wasn't changed, just a few extra cubic inches of displacement were added. Those wires may not fix the immediate problem, but certainly can prevent future ones. They are a high quality set and will transfer good spark voltage provided the rest of the ignition system is up to the task. GM had a very good ignition system. It generates excellent voltage and as long as your plugs and wires are good you will have minimum troubles in that area of the system. I had actually looked at buying an MSD system and coil for my 95 Suburban and a sales rep from Summit Racing actually told me I wouldn't come out much farther ahead by doing so. Its that good of a spark. For all their flaws in certain vehicles, HEI ignition was one thing GM got right the first time.

Response From alienshadow

Okay I will.. Yeah I like to invest in good parts no need for cheap mess that dont last...As far as everything goes I know I have a new distributor cap new spark plugs. New egr valve.. New rebuilt trans.. New tires lol.. New heater coil..New belt. New air filter.. Supossely a rebuilt engine really not sure since I got shafted on the guy telling me the trans was rebuilt but it hadnt been.. I can see new seals and stuff on the engine but I cant see the inside.. Although the valves look real good..Oh yeah new hoses new windshield wiper fluid pump.. Front end alignment Got the steering wheel tightened up..

So as you see alot invested and the problems keep showing up.. I am glad the 4x4 works great.. I am in eastern N.C. so I dont use it much..
Nick if you have any other ideas on the sputter deal just let me know.. I think I may let it keep doing it if the wires dosent stop it.. Just let it get really bad and then I will know what the problem is from a mechanic...

Response From re-tired

Hello A.S. I too own a 93 chevy pickup . It's got 240,000 miles and other than mainntenence items , tune up , belt and hoses only the valve cover gaskets , a water pump and a p/s pump have been replaced . The tranny was gone thru in order to put a heavy duty clutch pack for towing my boats . Anyway, twice in its life I had sputtering problems . Once my injectors started to dribble gas when at idle and a little when first shut down .Three tankfulls of injector cleaner took care of that , now it's added on a regular basis. The second was the EGR control soleniod. It was allowing small amount if vac to crack open the valve . You can check for this by removig the hose from valve and plugging off. Replace the solenoid if problem.BTW , I've always used 87 .

Response From chickenhouse

Mines a 92 Z71 with 220,000 mi. Repairs include a water pump, wiper circuit board, rear wheel cyls, 2 clutches, plugs & wires. I can't think of anything else I've ever done to it. 87 octane-always.

Response From alienshadow

Mines has 293142 miles on it but with rebuilds... EGR valve new.. I will change these wires if it continues I will let it get worst.. This truck will eat me alive if I let it lol...
As far as the wires go back in the connectors when installed the ones there now have tie straps on them with a middle one seperating it.. I have bought what I need for it to be correct not sure where to put the spark plug seperators being they are tie strapped now.. Anyone have a diagram?

Response From re-tired

Its not the EGR valve thats the problem its the control soleniod next to the tbi that controls the egr that you need to check . wire seperators go where ever their needed.

Response From alienshadow

I went out and looked at it the egr part that was replaced... re-tired it looks like a goldish color and is round...

Response From alienshadow

Oh and the check engine light has not come on I know it works..

Response From re-tired

often the egr prob will not trip lite.

Response From alienshadow

Re-Tired there is definatly a hose that is not hooked to a black square box. It has a blue connection harnest on this box.. One hose comes from the egr valve which is gold goes through this black back out through to the engine.. The vac hose coming back to this square box has an end on it with a screw broke off in it, its not hooked up.. I was told not to worry about that line is this not true??? These hoses are very small...

Response From alienshadow

I cant find a diagram for this so I know what parts to ask for can anyone help???

Response From steve01832

Not to change the subject, but that picture for your profile is quite disturbing.

Steve

Response From alienshadow

Sorry I see no forum rules on pics it has no nudity and no obsence jestures get over it!!!!!!

Response From steve01832

Allen, this black box you're talking about sounds like the electronic vacuum regulator solenoid valve. It has a vacuum line going to the EGR and one going to the throttle body. It will also have an electrical connector housing a ground wire (Blk/Wht), a feed wire (Pnk/Blk), and a gray wire. The pink/blk wire and the gray wire both come from the PCM. Is this the black box you are referring to?

Steve

Response From alienshadow

Yes its a small box that has a place for 2 vaccum hoses.. small ones only one is hooked up to it.. the other one has been capped off with a screw.. My mechanic said it didnt matter if it was hooked up or not.. I just wonder if that could be causing this sputter its not everytime but it happens? The box is right under the air filter housing...

Response From steve01832

The hose coming from the throttle body is the vacuum supply to the solenoid. The computer will supply the power to the solenoid when the EGR needs to be opened. Once the solenoid opens, the vacuum line going out to the EGR carries the vacuum signal to open the valve. When either vacuum line gets disconnected, the EGR won't open at all. If the plastic vacuum port is broken off, you will need to replace it. The name of the part is EGR vacuum regulator solenoid valve. Hope this helps.

Steve

Response From alienshadow

UPDATE...

Well my truck seems to do better at stop lights and during shifts into second no more sputters as of yet thankfully... Only thing I do notice is when I crank it up when its cold I still get that sputter I thought it was gone but I was wrong..At a lost for that one..

ALSO If anyone could advise I supposely had my heater coil replaced due to it leaking at the firewall where the rubber hoses go into it.. Well as you would know it still leaks only when it has been sitting for about 6 hrs or so.. I had another mechanic ck it he said it was a new heater coil and he tighten the clamps but it still leaks at the same spot.. I have no clue as to what could be causing this...

Response From steve01832

This could be as simple as a bad clamp or if the clamp was overtightened it could have cut through the hose. If neither of these is the problem it would be the heater core itself.

Steve

Response From alienshadow

Okay guys I am going to change my heater coil myself.. Does anyone have a easy diagram that would be helpful? Also any tricks of the trade to make it easy on me? 1993 chevy 1500 4x4 350 engine.. Just a reminder...Step by step would be great..

Response From alienshadow

It is not the heater core.. Put one in tighten all clamps and it still leaks.. After it has been setting for awhile.. Anymore sugesstions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

! If with A/C, TMK that's a tough job on those dash boards and heater box.

Either way - now need to know if there's any chance the heater box still had coolant in it when done and is just residual or leaking again? Pressure system up with a pressure tester and see if it does the tell-tale drip to passenger's floor all over again. If so, new core is defective or was broken installation - arggh!

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom i8ts not extra fluid.. I dryed it all up.. I was very careful doing replacement even put vaseline on the lines so the hoses would slide on easier that way I could not break or crack the core.. I have no way of doing a pressure test Guess I will have to pay to get that done... Its not leaking on the inside its leaking where the clamps are at near the firewall new hoses and clamps.. Go figure..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Leaking outside! Good I hope. That should mean the hoses just don't set properly or a flaw in the neck(s) that you might be able to overcome.

Note on hose clamps etc.: Clamps may have been the squeeze with plier type and pre set as to how strong. The typical worm gear hose clamps usually work and you would re- snug those after a warm up. If the common replacement clamp like this.......


they can have trouble getting uniform grip even if fairly tight. Wipe area of possibility clean as you can to pin down where leaking with towels or what works. Have dental mirror and clean towel to look for exactly where it's source is. I think you said new hose which is good but may either way not fit just right and over-tightening could make matters worse.

They make "full circle" clamps that apply even force all around. The ones shown are not so even and if a larger than needed one used they apply a oval pressure. Full circle + even pressure ones look like this..........


Dang if even parts outlets will look at you cross-eyed when asking for this type! In that last pic is the common GM original which is a pill and pre-set pressure but when new would self seal as hose indents as to not piss of a new owner. If any clamp is way overtightened it's trouble.

Note again: Not certain on this exact truck but the engine ends of hose are funky turn to grip things and fail easily when older. Hope by now that's been already dealt with or not that type.

Find exactly were it leaks as you should see it as said. BTW - if needed you can rent for free (100%) deposit a pressure tester from many major chain parts outlets. This one should just go on where radiator cap is - just don't exceed the ~15 lb mark on dial. If you've lowered coolant level such that just air is there just a few lbs of pressure will show faster with air only like finding a leak in a tire.

Good luck. If neck is bent but not cracked let me/us know and we can think of some way out of that hopefully,

T

Response From alienshadow

I think everything is there just the line connector has a broke screw in it... Wonder if its hooked up if there will be problems? I am not sure

Response From steve01832

Usually when someone plugs a vacuum line or port, it is because of a problem. Instead of diagnosing or replacing, some elect to disable. There is no way of knowing how the truck will run until all of the vacuum lines are hooked up and the truck is driven.

Steve

Response From re-tired

A.S. It is the job of that "box" to allow the EGR valve to open. Since the the vac line related to the box is off and plugged at means the valve will never open and it is not your problem . Your mechanic was right , the eng will operate ok without the box hooked up. The valve wll just remain closed , its just a pollution control devise . You may want to ask your mechanic why he replaced the EGR valve thats not even hooked up or capable of operating ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree R-T. Had a slightly older 350 with an EGR inoperative that would knock! Seems the exact application really counted on it to crack open at it's known part throttle, especially with load and it wouldn't knock with it operating properly. The EGR is engineered into the whole scene of proper operation not just a bolt on emission control as many would think,

T

Response From alienshadow

Well after reading your post reply Even w/o the egr vaccum line being hooked up I dont think that is my problem with the sputter issue.. It has been unhooked probably since the week after I bought this truck.. Although I didnt realize it wasnt hooked up.. The c/e light was on and I guess that was the mechanics way of clearing it although i paid for and egr valve go figure.., Think its time for a new mechanic..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agreed - I doubt that's the upfront "sputtering" issue but when you reported that it was just plugged off and told it doesn't matter that's a warning that the tech MAY (I'm not there) fully understand. There will be things that escape the best of the best but be upfront about it as a tech.

Just know that almost all car/vehicle makers don't waste $ on things that aren't needed,

T

Response From alienshadow

Thanks Tom.. I changed out the spark plug wires myself.. I just couldnt see paying 68.00 to 101.00 to change them. To my surprise it cranked right up lol.. The old wires were tie strapped in and they had been put on real tight looks like they didnt cut into the wire but left a deep indention in them... So far the sputter issue is gone hopefully it will stay that way...Its the first time in a long while that I cold cranked it and it didnt sputter until it warmed up cranked and purred.... Just for my information when the truck is cold I here a ticking noise sounds like a lifter I am not sure.. Any good ideas on how to work with that? Not looking to overhaul lol.. I am running a thicker oil in my truck I think its 10w 40 or 20w 40....Thanks guys for all your help..

Steve no hard feelings I put the nerd pic up because I am smart but a nerd when it comes to being a mechanic... You guys are very helpful..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Seems like progress is at hand but not finished totally quite yet.

The deal with the high voltage parts - specifically the wires right now that were wire tied tight is the core of them isn't plain hard wire so with electricity being stupid it only wants the easiest way to find ground and doesn't care if it's between wires or to another ground which mean the plug doesn't get the spark for that round or ever in bad cases.

The spark plugs force that current to jump to ground via the set gap. The electricity would rather just skip that and shoot out along the way and hence no spark.

The resistance inside the cylinder is different than watching a plug in unpressurized air. That mix of fuel and air vaporized impedes the needed jump to ground under various condition more sometimes and less sometimes.

Back to this broken thing with the screw. Is the screw in plastic where a port is broken off or in the hose - or just plugged?

It the plastic has broken off the outlet/inlet it's near impossible to fix those - trust me - even when you have the broken piece.

The ticking while cold can take an experienced ear to know just what. With age, miles, perhaps some sludge, camshaft and lifter wear, the range of lifter may be maxed out when cold. Total guess as I'm not there. When warmed up the pushrod and parts are an itty bit longer/larger and while warm be within range again. Don't (my opinion) go nuts with cure all snake oils in can stuff as plain good quality oil should be fine if this is just sticking or slightly sludged. If distance is out of range some can be adjusted (cheap way out for an old engine) vs all new stuff.

Defining noises is tricky. In that it goes away is a clue but for now I doubt the issue/cause of sputtering,

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom I can see where the hose plugs into.. There is a rubber piece that is on the vac line that plugs in to the selinoid I guess.. It looks like a L shape rubber fitting and thats where the screw is broke off at the rubber piece I can not get it out will have to buy a new piece I guess...Try it see what happens... So you are saying that my spark plugs may not of been the issue? Just a temp fix? Oh and by the way where the hose plugs in at it looks like it would just slid right onto it..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien,

What I'm saying is that plugs and wires are in the cards for the fix. May not be the whole issue but sounds like the wires were a bit of a hack job some time ago. It isn't new anymore and good plugs and wires are a must to rule out especially if older, hacked, cheap, with a problem that can be intermittent which is a hair puller for anyone.

If that item with the screw in it works better that way than when fixed then it's pointing to what the real cause is,

T

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

No hard feelings. I kinda figured about the nerd pic, that's why I made the smart-ass comment. lol
Hopefully the truck is all set now.

Steve

Response From alienshadow

I hope so.. I think every forum needs a little humor every now and then...Glad we were adults about it ....

Response From Hammer Time

get over it!!!!!!

You do realize that your talking to a Moderator?

Response From alienshadow

Yes I do.. No pun intended... If the moderator had an issue with my pic he should of emailed me in private and not made it public..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Didn't see the distributor rotor mentioned when cap was replaced but as nick said GM's HEI was pretty good and dependable.

Wires or any ignition parts are not good to cheap out on. Wires can last ages and I find most fail to trauma from heat, rubbing or being stuck such that they get stressed from removing and replacing for any reason. Do them ONE BY ONE so as not to mix up firing order - longest to longest in box to shortest and secure them as they were originally in holsters which may break but you can get those.

Gasoline octane ratings: True - if designed for 87 then 87 should be fine. It's not necessarily a quality rating but an anti-knock rating. It takes a higher % of crude oil to make higher octane fuel so it will cost more than lower octanes.

Comment on cheaper parts: Ign stuff - not worth the savings at all! Filters - cheap ones can cost you MPGs especially air filter. Front end and brake parts. Most must meet OE specs but I don't care for much that is cheaper with those either. Shocks - a ha! Now - with trucks and certain cars the cheaper ones may ride better to your liking which isn't necessarily a quality issue but can be. I prefer the basic ones on trucks for my taste as they ride more to my liking with no load conditions.

Laugh - I own a 3/4 ton C/K truck and when empty it rides like a coal cart! Surprised it doesn't break glass!

T