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We stock Spark Plug parts for most Renault models, including Alliance, Encore, Fuego, LeCar, R10, R12, R15, R16, R17, R18, R18i, R5.

Bosch
1986 Renault R18i Spark Plug 4 Cyl 2.2L Bosch - Nickel

P311-36439A7    7900  New

Qty:
$4.33
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Bosch Nickel with Copper-Core Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.032 in Original equipment is nickel
  • Nickel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Nickel-yttrium And Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: N/a
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapered V-profile
    • Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Hex Size: 20.8
    • Insulator Material: Ceramic
    • Insulator Type: Non-projected
    • Pre-Gap Size: .8
    • Resistance: 6000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Spark Plug Type: 4-cycle
  • Bosch conventional nickel-copper spark plugs, with a heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced copper core center electrode, are a longer lasting copper core spark plug.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault R18i L 4 Cyl 2.2L 131 2152
Bosch
1977 Renault R17 Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosch - Nickel

P311-36439A7    7900  New

Qty:
$4.33
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Bosch Nickel with Copper-Core Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.024 in
  • Nickel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Nickel-yttrium And Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: N/a
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapered V-profile
    • Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Hex Size: 20.8
    • Insulator Material: Ceramic
    • Insulator Type: Non-projected
    • Pre-Gap Size: .8
    • Resistance: 6000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Spark Plug Type: 4-cycle
  • Bosch conventional nickel-copper spark plugs, with a heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced copper core center electrode, are a longer lasting copper core spark plug.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery SubType Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Renault R17 2BBL L 4 Cyl 1.6L 100 1647
Bosch
1981 Renault R18 Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosch - Nickel

P311-36439A7    7900  New

Qty:
$4.33
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Bosch Nickel with Copper-Core Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.024 in Original equipment is nickel
  • Nickel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Nickel-yttrium And Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: N/a
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapered V-profile
    • Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Hex Size: 20.8
    • Insulator Material: Ceramic
    • Insulator Type: Non-projected
    • Pre-Gap Size: .8
    • Resistance: 6000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Spark Plug Type: 4-cycle
  • Bosch conventional nickel-copper spark plugs, with a heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced copper core center electrode, are a longer lasting copper core spark plug.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Renault R18 L 4 Cyl 1.6L 100 1647
Bosch
1983 Renault Fuego Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosch - Nickel

P311-36439A7    7900  New

Qty:
$4.33
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Bosch Nickel with Copper-Core Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.024 in Original Equipment is Silver
  • Nickel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Nickel-yttrium And Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: N/a
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Tapered V-profile
    • Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel-yttrium
    • Hex Size: 20.8
    • Insulator Material: Ceramic
    • Insulator Type: Non-projected
    • Pre-Gap Size: .8
    • Resistance: 6000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Spark Plug Type: 4-cycle
  • Bosch conventional nickel-copper spark plugs, with a heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced copper core center electrode, are a longer lasting copper core spark plug.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Renault Fuego L 4 Cyl 1.6L 100 1647
Champion
1986 Renault Encore Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.4L Champion - Copper Plus

P311-34B4063    404  New

W8LCR , 93230927 , F5TC , 4219 , F5RTC , AGR42C , R43XLS , 5213693 , 93206675 , 7507837 , BPR5ES11 , 14GR42 , 8008 , BPR5EY11 , WR8DPX , 4220 , 4091713 , AGR42 , 4218 , 7922 , SF6E , AGS52C , RN12YC , WR8DP , WR8D , 7905 , AGS32C , BPR5ES , AGS42C , AGR32C , W8DC0 , SM6E , WR8DC , ETC7244 , SF426E , AGR52 , 9007 , WR10LC , BPR5EY

Qty:
$2.96
Champion Spark Plug
  • Champion Copper Plus- Boxed - RN12YC
  • Plug Type RN12YC Gap .032 OE Type
  • Copper Plus
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel Copper Alloy
    • Classification: Champion Copper Plus
    • Electrical Terminal Type: Non-removable Nut
    • Feature 1: Copper Plus - Dependable Performance.
    • Feature 2: Copper Core Center Electrode Allows For Accurate Control Of Heat Range For Longer Life
    • Feature 3: Patented Tintac And Ultraseal Coated Shell For Maximum Corrosion Resistance
    • Feature 4: Patented Sac-9 Semiconductor Resistor For Maximum Emi & Rfi Suppression
    • Feature 5: Built To Iso And Sae Standards For Proven Performance
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel Copper Alloy
    • Hex Size:
      • 0.813
      • 20.7
    • Insulator Height: 0.120
    • Plug Type: Rn12yc
    • Reach: 0.750
    • Thread Diameter:
      • 0.551
      • 14.0
  • Dependable performance. This Champion spark plug features a copper core electrode that provides increased conductivity and heat control for good overall wear.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Champion
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault Encore L 4 Cyl 1.4L 85 1397
Denso
1984 Renault LeCar Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.4L Denso - Platinum TT

P311-4CBE061    4501  New

90919-01091 , 0000-18-B601 , 98079-551-32S , EAC8916 , 09482-00167 , B602-18-110 , 22401-V1416 , J3189066 , 90048-51093-000 , 2098 360 , 18813-11051 , 101 000 039 AB , 98079-551-46S , 90048-51106-000 , ERR 3799 , 003 159 27 03 , 19301656 , FE79-18-110 , MS851417 , 12 12 9 061 445 , 4318 131 , PW16TT , EAC8915 , ETC 6437 , 12 12 1 272 128 , 003 159 10 03 , AM20-18-110 , 12 12 9 061 383 , B601-18-110 , 5613870 , 18818-11051 , 4106 129 , 09482-00506 , 003 159 29 03 , 90048-51081-000 , 98079-551-46 , JLM9661 , 98079-551-83 , 5213 693 , 91171720 , 003 159 11 03 , 5613932 , 19307141 , 90919-01065 , 003 159 47 03 , 96057875 , 22401-P8315 , 98079-551-83S , 90919-01064 , 0000-18-8914 , 8914-18-110 , 12 12 9 061 869 , 12 12 1 279 599 , 18825-11101 , B630-18-110 , 4686 083 , 4727 114 , 5235 010 , MS851552 , SPRN14PMP5 , ERR 743 , 3953-18-110 , 22401-V1415 , 5613878 , 4425 964 , MS851301 , JLM9663 , 4425 979 , MD365108 , 18835-11161 , 90919-01115 , 09482-00155 , 88901006 , 22401-P8314 , MS851432 , MS851237 , 98079-551-32 , 999 170 062 90 , 19145286 , J3242841 , AGS32C

Qty:
$4.89
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Platinum TT
  • Gap 0.040
  • Platinum TT
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Platinum
    • Ground Configuration: Twin-tip
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Titanium Enhanced Twin-tip
    • Hex Size: 20.6
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.040
    • Reach: 19.00
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.551
  • Twin-Tip design enables faster flame propagation for more complete combustion.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Renault LeCar L 4 Cyl 1.4L 85 1397
Denso
1986 Renault R5 Spark Plug 4 Cyl 2.2L Denso - Platinum TT

P311-3F17BB1    4502  New

8-94120-562-0 , 101 000 021 AA , 101 000 001 AC , MS851418 , 19310643 , 101 000 027 AA , 596162 , 101 000 005 AB , N01 781 178 , 8-94217-232-0 , 101 000 036 AA , 98079-561-46S , 19250976 , 1881111061 , 22401-P8316 , 60523370 , 22401 AA290 , 101 000 036 AB , 09482-00299 , 5613522 , 3954-18-110 , 271409-0 , MS851233 , 18811-11061 , N01 781 133 , 83 50 076 , 101 000 009 AA , 999 170 189 90 , 98079-561-46 , 101 000 006 AF , 0000-18-1690 , 999 170 156 90 , MS851238 , 4106 117 , 8-25109-199-0 , MS851029 , M05269897 , 270746-0 , 88901010 , M05269899 , 98079-561-55 , MS851292 , 1346541-0 , 999 170 158 90 , 09482-00421 , 8350 1511 , MS851551 , 22401 AA120 , MS851302 , ZVP 121 087 S , 1367528-0 , MS851433 , 003 159 46 03 , 5613940 , 999 170 189 9A , 09482-00409 , 22401 KA050 , 18822-11091 , 1882211091 , 75 68 900 , PW20TT , 09482-00285 , ZVP 121 085 C , 101 000 026 AA , 191 905 450 A , FE82-18-110 , 1690-18-110 , MS851188 , MS851555 , 0000-18-B601 , MS851413

Qty:
$4.89
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Platinum TT
  • Gap 0.040
  • Platinum TT
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Platinum
    • Ground Configuration: Twin-tip
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Titanium Enhanced Twin-tip
    • Hex Size: 20.6
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.040
    • Reach: 19.00
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.551
  • Twin-Tip design enables faster flame propagation for more complete combustion.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault R5 L 4 Cyl 2.2L 131 2152
Denso
1986 Renault R5 Spark Plug 4 Cyl 2.2L Denso - U-Groove Conventional

P311-30FFA46    3066  New

ZVP 121 087 S , 003 159 46 03 , 8350 1511 , 75 68 900 , FE82-18-110 , 0000-18-B601 , 191 905 450 A , 0000-18-1690 , W20EXR-U , 60523370 , 101 000 021 AA , 3954-18-110 , 270746-0 , 596162

Qty:
$2.73
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Standard
  • Gap 0.032
  • U-Groove Conventional
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: U-groove
    • Hex Size: 20.6
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.032
    • Reach: 19.00
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.551
  • U-Groove design provides better ignitability for increased engine efficiency.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault R5 L 4 Cyl 2.2L 131 2152
Denso
1984 Renault LeCar Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.4L Denso - U-Groove Conventional

P311-26A3114    3031  New

22401-V1416 , EAC8916 , W16EXR-U , 3953-18-110 , 0000-18-8914 , JLM9663 , 4425 979 , 90919-01064 , 09482-00167 , 003 159 47 03 , JLM9661 , 999 170 062 90 , 8914-18-110 , ERR 3799 , EAC8915

Qty:
$2.82
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Standard
  • Gap 0.032
  • U-Groove Conventional
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: U-groove
    • Hex Size: 20.6
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.032
    • Reach: 19.00
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Flat
    • Thread Diameter: 0.551
  • U-Groove design provides better ignitability for increased engine efficiency.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Renault LeCar L 4 Cyl 1.4L 85 1397
Denso
1986 Renault R18i Spark Plug 4 Cyl 2.2L Denso - Platinum TT

P311-08260DC    4512  New

458 5576 , PT20TT , ZZL1-18-110C , AGSF 22YP-C , 12571165 , SP000RS9YC , AWSFA32C , ZZM1-18-110C , AWSF34 , CGSF12YP , AGSF 22WM , ZZM3-18-110A , AGSF34C , AWSF22E , EAC8554 , 25171347 , AGSF22FM1 , ZZM1-18-110 , 596161 , 1269915-0 , AWSF24 , AWSF34C , LR0 00604 , AGSF32C , ZZM3-18-110 , ZZL1-18-110 , ZZM6-18-110 , 101 000 029 AB , 5614036 , AWSF32C , AGSF24C , 19301658 , 003 159 24 03 , 101 000 015 AA , 7700 714540 , 101 000 029 AA , AGSF22WM , AWSF22 , EBC4021 , AWSF32 , AWSF24C , AGSF 22YPCF4 , 101 000 052 AA , 19308031 , 5962C1 , AGSF24N , 7730 714317 , EAC9186 , 101 000 010 AB , 1F72-18-110 , ZZL0-18-110 , GY01-18-110 , AGSF 32CF4 , AGSF22W , AGSF 22WMF4 , 5614197 , 5613717 , NAB3850DA

Qty:
$4.89
Denso Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Platinum TT
  • Gap 0.040
  • Platinum TT
  • Product Attributes:
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Platinum
    • Ground Configuration: Twin-tip
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Titanium Enhanced Twin-tip
    • Hex Size: 16.0
    • Pre-Gap Size: 0.040
    • Reach: 18.00
    • Resistance: 5000
    • Seat Type: Tapered
    • Thread Diameter: 0.551
  • Twin-Tip design enables faster flame propagation for more complete combustion.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault R18i L 4 Cyl 2.2L 131 2152

Latest Renault Repair and Spark Plug Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

RENAULT CLIO PROBLEM

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From scottymac2014 on RENAULT CLIO PROBLEM

2005
RENAULT
CLIO
1.2 16V
74000 MILES

hi i recently bought my car and it was fine,then an engine light came on and the car was stuttering,well anyway i ran my diagnostic kit through the computer and it was a code for a faulty thorttle body and a low fuel one, i replaced the throttle body with a fully tested part but the problem is still happening.the spark plugs were pretty dirty and the engine had a misfire, what do you think it could be ?
MANY THANKS

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Duplicate questions aren't necessary

how is fuel getting in the oil

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From ady1234uk on how is fuel getting in the oil

Year: 2000
Make: renault
Model: megane scenic
Engine size: 1.6 16v
Mileage: 104000

ive had the spark plugs out thay are carbon black the car stinks of petrol when running and some white smoke when running any idles

Response From ady1234uk

its the piston rings thanks for all the help

Response From Sidom

I'm not familiar with that particular model but it sounds like it's running too rich....

You could start with looking at some of the temp sensor inputs for the computer. If the coolant or air temp sensors get skewed and tell the comp it's -40° when it's not, that will cause it to run very rich.....

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up and take a pressure reading. Find out the specs for this model, make sure it's not too high and that the pressure holds with the key off. If it doesn't hold, a couple of things that could be a bad diaphragm in the pressure regulator or leaky fuel injector........

Response From re-tired

Hi sidom just thought i would give another angle. Black plugs and black exhaust i would say rich ,as you stated. However , black plugs and white or greyish white exhaust ,I would say oil consumption. .Worn/cracked rings could give you oil in combustion chamber and fuel in the crankcase. IMO

Response From Sidom

Yup, thats another very good possibility. I missed the white exhaust part... Now I'm curious if there is any coolant loss going on with that as well

A good way to double check the worn ring problem would be to block off the pcv valve & hook a vacuum/pressure gauge to the dipstick tube and see if you are getting too much crankcase pressure......

With a scope & FLS (first look sensor) you can actually see the individual pulses of each compression event which would help narrow down the problem child....No offense to the poster but i doubt if he has that type of set up but vac gauges are faily inexpensive........

Response From ady1234uk Top Rated Answer

ive just had a compression test done cyl 1 is 205 cyl 2 is 190 cyl 3 is 200 cyl 4 is 50 the white smoke comes and goes and there is no power loss

Response From Sidom

Looks like RT gets the gold star for this one....

Like Nick mentioned, this is a big problem.....

The next step would be a leakdown test to see where the comp is going. From what you've posted before, bad rings would be the likely culprit...

The only thing bothering me is, the statement of "no power loss". For a 4 cyl engine to lose one cyl, that would be obvious to anyone. I might be tempted to do a running compression test before a leakdown.........

Response From nickwarner

cylinder 4 is 50 pounds? That motor is toast

Renault Clio 11, 1.2L (Diet?) MTV W reg (2000)

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From videoteknix on Renault Clio 11, 1.2L (Diet?) MTV W reg (2000)

Renault Clio 11, 1.2L (Diet?) MTV W reg (2000)

Could anyone tell me which end number one spark plug is, Cambelt or Battery side?

The reason I ask is because I had an arduous task of replacing a water pump.
In doing so I had to dissasemble the power steering, engine mount,altinator oh and yes the timing belt, but to our amazement we ended up with no spare parts at he end of the build :) (oh... and no leaks)

I wont say I'm much of a mechanic or even one at that, I'm one of those ppl that will get there hands dirty to save money.

Anyway..putting it all back together with bleeding knuckles and a swear box full of 10 pences. I turned the engine over it ran lumpy :S

so to my way of thinking I could only quess that the plug next to the cambelt isnt number 1 !!!! Before I could get the same answer from RenaultLine.. I got a barking 1342! then they hung up 0.o

so now I turn to you guys..................

Response From zmame

#1 cyl should be the first plug on the side of the pullys .. i be know thats the way most are toyta, honda, chev, ford.. can't be %100 becuase i've never seen a Renault Clio working in canada lol. hope this helps

Response From videoteknix Top Rated Answer

Thanks guys, but reading someone elses post ppl are saying the french like to do things backwards :s so 1342 should be 2431? no 1 being battery side. Well I'll keep you all posted, for I am about to take another look today.

Response From videoteknix

WOOOHOOO :) I was correct in thinking that number 1 plug is battery side. Put it all together and it started straight away...not woithout hiccups I must admit :S I heard a dry noise and worked it out that the Power Steering unit was empty..new oil soon rectified the problem..^^ cheers guys :) oh btw im from England :)

word of warning! " Dont DL the clio manual"! the only one I found was either Russian or French hahahahaha
unless you can translate go ahead but for me pffft!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

THIS IS A WILD GUESS FROM ACROSS THE POND TO HELP AND A POSSIBILITY OF WHAT'S WRONG WITH FIRING ORDER AND HOW IS RUNNING LOUSY NOW.

Note in the diagram below the belts are shown left and #1 is typically left and cylinders #ed as shown for an in line engine of four cylinders. If you look at a typical rotary distributor which you may not have the firing order here would be 1-3-4-2 ** NOTE - that is if the rotor of distributor turns clockwise. If it turns the other way you need to switch the "3" and the "2" on the distributor cap to fire right.

All this also means you need to know you've started with #1 properly. If this engine doesn't use a rotary distributor I couldn't find any info on it and I tried

Good luck,

T

1997 Renault Safrane Exec won't start

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From spongmonkey on 1997 Renault Safrane Exec won't start

I went out to my car yesterday and it wouldn't start. I know very little about cars but i'll explain what I've found, and any help at all would be appreciated.

the car turns over, I've replaced the spark plugs and confirmed that all of the plugs do generate a spark. The immobilisor lights is out, as is the ECU dignostic light. I've tried 1/2 a can of easy start in the air box and the car doesn't run on this either. The car will also not bump start. this leads me to believe that the problem may be fuel related?

Andy

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bear with me - you've used some terms I am not familiar with. This use of what you called easy start? Is that like a spray ether which we call starting flluid? If so and that didn't work you may have used too much. It should have at least bucked or something if lack of fuel is the problem. I suspect a timing problem from what I see. Check that the distributor's rotor turns. You may have a timing belt broken and in some cars that's "game over" for that engine - hope not. Come back with anything you find - here to help you, T

Response From spongmonkey

Thanks for the reply. Easy start is a spray ether that usually helps start a car if it really doesn't want to go. There is a belt to the right of the engine which is there and in tact, let's hope that's the timing belt, in which case it hasn't snapped! I'm hoping it's a simple timing problem but i'm not usually that lucky with car-related problems :( It's booked in at the garage tomorrow so I'll let you know what they find

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Those timing belts don't last much longer than 60,000 miles or 100,000 KM and they don't factor time usually from what I've seen in maintenance schedules. They can jump a tooth or break completly. Most will still run just one tooth off and after that all bets are off. Hope it's that simple and let us know. Others will benefit from what you have wrong and fixed. Be well, T

[Solved] Renault Megane II stalling on low speeds

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Khaleal on [Solved] Renault Megane II stalling on low speeds

This is regarding a Renault Megane II 1.6 16v 2005 K4M760 Engine (Petrol)
This vehicle stalls and losses power on low speeds but performs very well on high speeds..
When driving this car on low speeds (lights/traffic) the EML starts flashing and the engine tends to lose power and stall (within 30sec-1m).. The only way to prevent the engine from stalling is to rev it up so the EML disappear.. This doesn't always work as sometimes its too late and accelerating won't make any difference as the engine lost all of its power. When this issue occurs the engine vibrates as it was misfiring.. I tried unplugging coils while the engine is vibrating.. And look what I've found.. Unplugging coils on cylinders 1&4 didn't make any difference.. while unplugging 2&3 stalled the engine.. So when this problem occurs the car is running only on two cylinders (2,3) while (2,4) aren't contributing to the engine power..
When the EML starts flashing and/or the engine stalls I can restart the engine and it starts with no problems and without the EML..

This is what I've done until now:
1. New set of BOSCH spark-plugs..
2. New set of VALEO GREEN TOP coils.
3. New TDC sensor.
4. New throttle body.
5. 2 injectors replaced (on cylinders 1,4).
6. New MAP sensor.
7. Compression test on cylinders 1,4 showed an identical compression of 150psi.

It has been connected to a Renault CLIP and it showed the following faults: DF022(active),DF131(active),DF061(pending),DF032(pending),DF010(pending)

What could be the problem? I'm thinking of a faulty ECU and/or Engine wiring loom.. But I don't want to play the guessing game as it costs a small fortune :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This car not sold here so very limited for info so just wild guessing and observations.


So far you've discovered what items are NOT the problem and don't blame you for not liking the guessing game with parts. Seems this is an intermittent problem so need to catch it when doing this as you have seems to cut out cylinders #1+4 when this happens.


Probably coils do two cylinders each by your tests indicated that. Not sure if you are losing spark or fuel or if both associated with just those two and of course it would run like crap if at all and shoot out all kinds of codes that mean little IMO running on half an engine!


Too late now but when you've isolated two and items are the same next time try swapping items if you can't prove by testing and are the same items like injectors and coils.


This problem you could put an in line spark tester that flashes so you know it's not firing spark at #1 or 4 when it does this but since you unplugged coil to them with no change you about know it doesn't have spark.


That would lead me to look hard at the car's plug and wires right to that coil NOT the coil as now it's new and problem is the same so odds are not that end but the plug itself may show a clue or a wiggle test while it happens then if it snaps right out of that you know right where.


Speed seems to matter is a clue: Something that happens with speed is a constant load on engine/transmission is torqued with a given load - I mean tilting against mounts to limit of mounts if they are good (checking those is free) and just that tug on wires or plug could snap it out but only sometimes as you said.


I doubt a mechanical problem is doing this intermittently and would focus on the connections, wires that allow spark to the two cylinders known to cut out,


T

Response From Khaleal

I also doubt a mechanical problem is doing this because this car will start flawlessly when restarted.
I replaced the sparkplugs/coils as sets (total of 4 coils and 4 sparkplugs) so I don't think it's an issue with the parts themselves (coils/sparkplugs). (The coils have been replaced twice BTW.. First time with second hand ones and then with brand new ones)..
I've tested the wires going to the coils (Engine photo so you know what am talking about: http://goo.gl/k9tceZ) while the car was having the issue using a circuit tester like this: http://goo.gl/s8bxSo and the tester was indeed flashing so I think the ECU was telling the spark-plugs to spark..
I've connected the car to a scan tool which has live stats and I noticed that when the EML starts flashing the car goes to fuel open loop and short fuel trim values goes to a constant 0% until the engine completely dies (Or back to its normal readings if I can save the engine from stalling by reving up the engine).. Does that say anything?
This car is driving me crazy! What do you think should be my next step?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I feel your frustration! Can't make your pics show in that format but doesn't matter for the moment. Coils always blamed - twice now. Dagnabit silly rabbit makes me more worried about the harness they plug in to!!!! Maybe just the plug - can't know - you have to do the looking with a magnifying glass if need be.


I do find more crap with horrible symptoms because of stupid slight either misalignment or slight corrosion on plain connections. When it stalls it's giving itself the "wiggle test" by that I mean wiggle the connections that are suspect or wiring and if problem instantly happens or goes away you found the spot at least.


Default mode doesn't surprise me as it apparently is trying to save itself from damage. Know that raw fuel if being delivered without firing is nasty hard on converter up to killing it so don't let that happen and it will if neglected. Most don't just wear out over time but are killed by an engine that doesn't run properly for any reason.


If, if, if you find a connection that you suspect or reacts to that wiggle test or just unplug and back in again take a good look at it. Has to be a male/female something like pins or spades and you can sometimes tighten up one with tiny needle nose or perhaps dental like picks.


Side note is that I live in an area (lots of N. USA too) where they salt roads and every dang connection and thing can get soaked with salted water despite most are factory greased and sealed they lose it over time, heat, cold or just plain rains and throw in humidity when things get soggy like your windshield need a wipe because it was cold then warmer with humidity it fogs outside and so does every other dang thing in a car exposed to that.


OK - When at connections for anything and a bit fussy myself about it if unplugged I'll put a slight smear of dialectic (means grease for electrical things that is water resistant) or just a tooth pick of like even silicone spray or WD-40 type something still AYOR as I mean just the least possible so it isn't a problem from doing that.


FYI, not around all the time here. We volunteer only at this place and sometimes have some real something to do so if late with a response forgive me. My own vehicle I'm deciding now to do or not something not related to this just because I'm there - stupid as that seems I guess.


Off the topic again. Broke a guaranteed for life socket just now but that's a joke as they wont have one or the maker is out of biz so a waste to hunt down and hate that crap like anyone would.


Good luck. I think you have a better chance of finding this taking your time and NOT tossing things. Problem with that can become then you have to question new items being the source of the problem at some point which leads to pre-mature hair loss


Keep at it,
Tom

Response From Khaleal

This issue also occurs when the car is parked (not moving and the AT on P).. I tried unplugging the MAP sensor and trying to start the car without the sensor at all.. And look what.. The EML appears immediately when I start the car but now the engine won't stall.
Hmmm.. I'm confused to invest in an ECU or in a wiring loom as both are relatively expensive.. (As I'm familiar with decoding/cloning secondhand ECUs I personally see the ECU thing a little bit cheaper)
Anyways.. Thank you very much for your help! I really appreciate it :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arrrr! Unplugging MAP would set off a light but not sure why it picks on just two cylinders? MAP unplugged the car is making adjustments for more power or load probably but should be for all functions not just the two cylinders as said.


???? Add really checking out vacuum hoses and anything that seals vacuum to manifold like gaskets to head and base of throttle body may leak some. Why intermittent is messing up nailing this easily.


I know you want "done" with this but wouldn't be so fast for a wiring loom or ECU until more is ruled in or out.


Another maybe to look at is the air path from where it picks up on thru filter into throttle body should be tight and no defects in how it's all connected up,


T

Response From Khaleal Top Rated Answer

Hmm.. I found a hole in the hose near the air filter (under the battery).. But its before the air filter so I don't think its a problem..
See picture of the hole


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Ok - pre filter that still needs be fixed and probably NOT the reason for the stalling but the result of it but if a back fire or flames caused that (looks like heat did that) from INSIDE but think it was from outside is now high on the list to find out why. Backfires should have harmed or wrecked the air filter so do take a look at evidence in there. More likely if burnt was fuel not engine oil that can get into that area in some designs.


So look for both reasons for external heat damage to this area that I would think would be exhaust pipe or manifold but surprised if any of that was close to this type stuff. It also should be replaced. High temp duct tape may be a test to see if stalling problem quits but doubt it by description.


If timing, valve timing or excessive fuel delivery is happening it could do this from inside but looks like from outside?


T

Response From Khaleal

Well.. The picture isn't very clear.. But I'm certainly sure it's broken by the previous owner and not by heat.
When I connected this car to Renault CAN CLIP I cleared to codes.. I've managed to connect the tool again to the car and those are the codes that keep comming:
DF080 - CAMSHAFT DEPHASER CIRCUIT - Phaser control outside of limits (Before it was: Camshaft phaser position error)
DF065 - MISFIRE
Wait! A faulty camshaft sensor may cause the car to run rough or even stall especially at low revs.. Do you think it worth changing the sensor?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Your pic again........

Even with my lousy eyesight that smacks of heat that caused that not trauma from something breaking it. Codes to a sensor don't mean that the sensor is the problem but info from it isn't right or that circuit has a problem.


If wires and things near it are also damaged that's the area to look by eye first for damage. Why do I suspect heat with this type damage not just a crack seems like MAYBE someone at some time used starting fluid or something to excess and it caught fire quickly but left that and perhaps more?


Just common sense I doubt this has a single sensor for just the TWO cylinders that demonstrate this problem while TWO others work so suggests the source problem is NOT the sensor. If cheap and easy enough go ahead and test or replace it but I doubt it so far,


T

Response From Khaleal

I tested (replaced) the camshaft sensor and camshaft dephaser solenoid valve from a junkyard and both were OK. But I was sure there is something wrong with the camshaft as it's the only thing that keeps coming after resetting the code.
I took the car to another mechanic (who is specialized in Renault cars) and has diagnosed it as a faulty camshaft dephaser pulley.
As he explained to me, this unit controls the valves in certain conditions depanding on the oil pressure.. He offered me to buy a new unit from Renault (which costs about 500$+VAT) or let him "fix" it.. As the unit is very over-priced I went on the second option.. He fixed it by making it stuck at open state as he claimed it wasn't able to fully open..
Now the car doesn't stall at all.. But the EML is constantly ON.. But I don't mind :) I will order a new unit from eBay soon (about 135$) and let him install it.. I'm OK for now with the "temporary" fix..
BTW, Is there any side effects of doing such thing to the camshaft dephaser pulley?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad it has been isolated and running but do fix it soon properly such that your "EML" (?Engine Management Light) stays off. It probably is still being harmful to converter(s) and they are expensive as the result of a problem not the cause most of the time.


I'll close out thread as solved as you seem to now know just what to do for the fix. YOU can ask any moderator to re-open this thread upon request,


T