Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset
Original equipment is nickel
Center Electrode Core Material:Nickel-yttrium And Copper
Center Electrode Tip Material:Nickel-yttrium
Ground Electrode Core Material:N/a
Ground Electrode Tip Design:Multiple
Ground Electrode Tip Material:Nickel-yttrium
Spark Plug Type:4-cycle
Bosch conventional Nickel-Copper Spark Plugs are designed to deliver performance and value. Heavy-duty yttrium-enhanced nickel center electrode with copper core provides a longer lasting copper core spark plug. Engineered to meet or exceed Original Equipment specifications for nickel-copper core spark plugs.
OEM specified special ground electrode configuration.
Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Additional Fitment Information:
2005 - Porsche Carrera GT
10 Cyl 5.7L
Latest Porsche Repair and Spark Plug Installation Advice
Burning white smoke 2006 Cayman S
Showing 2 out of
Question From caunyd on Burning white smoke 2006 Cayman S
2006 Porsche Cayman S 72,000 miles
Hi guys. As I was driving, all of a sudden A LOT of white smoke started coming out from my car. The smoke had a burning smell. The yellow engine light went on in the dash. So when this happened, I immediately stopped the car and had it towed. If I remember correctly, the oil or engine temperature was ok at that time. The car didn't lose power, and I was travelling about 30 mph at the time.
I have consistently changed the oil on this car, usually every 5-10,000 miles. The most recent oil change was 2,000 miles ago. According to the dash, I have adequate oil. So is this an oil problem? What I have noticed is that for over 1 1/2 years, there was a burning smell, probably from the rear vents, after I drove and then parked the car, but everything worked perfectly.
Since that time, based on message board information, I have been told that the most likely problem is a bad air oil separator (AOS). So I ordered a factory AOS, and tried to replace it myself. Although it's a seemingly simple job, I didn't have the tools. So while I took out the AOS, I was not able to put in a new one. So from this point on, I did not turn on the engine, and had it towed to the mechanic.
While my car was being towed to the mechanic, I noticed an oil leak on the left side of my car. I think the oil leak was because the bad AOS allowed too much oil to get into the cylinder/piston. So I replaced the air oil separator. But after I replaced the AOS, I tried to start the engine, but it wouldn't start. It just made a "click" sound. At first I thought it was a battery problem, but then I charged and then jumped started the car, but it still wouldn't start.
My thinking was that perhaps too much oil went into the cylinder/piston. The engine won't start because now the piston was trying to compress oil, which is an incompressible liquid. I think this is what they call "hydraulic lock." So I tried to take out all 6 spark plugs to allow the oil to drain out. Sure enough, after I removed the 5th spark plug, oil drained out. After removing all 6 spark plugs, I cranked the key for several seconds so that the pistons would pump out any additional oil in the cylinder. Then, I replaced all 6 spark plugs.
After doing this, my engine was able to start again, but there was still the initial white burning smoke, but a lot less of it. So then I figured there was still some oil residue in the engine, so I stepped on the gas, and had the car at 3,000 rpm for a few minutes to try to get rid of the oil residue. After doing all this, the burning white smoke has stopped, and I believe my problem is fixed. However, now I'm getting the error message "take to the engine shop." I think that the problem is solved, but now, because of oil being in the engine, perhaps some sensors have been damaged, and therefore I'm getting this error message, even though I think that everything is ok now.
Why do you think I'm getting this error message? Do you think I did anything wrong? Can you guys make any suggestions or give any advice? Do you think I caused any permanent damage to my engine? Thanks.
Response From Sidom☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Hydrolocking an engine is never a good thing......Some handle this better than others but if this problem only surfaced after the hydrolock problem you would be best advise to have a shop qualified to work on Porsches check this out...
I won't stress you out with some of the horror stories I've seen....
There isn't any new knocking noises is there, even very small ones???
Help on car restoration.
Showing 3 out of
Question From ParkMyCar on Help on car restoration.
Hi! Sorry if this is in the wrong topic but it seemed like the best one to me.
A neighbor of my friend has a 1984 Porsche 944 sitting in the corner of his driveway. He said the last time it got major use was back in '02 but he has took it out about 2 years ago just to drive around the block. Since then the interior has gotten a little messed up, some water damage and one the brackets that connects to the seat has broken, no idea how. It is a very nice car, he has two seperate interiors, one racing, one stock leather, and he put on a stainless steel fiberglass body with a custom front bumper. The only problem that it had 2 years ago was that there was a small oil leak out of the bottom of the car so occasionally it would drip oil. Under the hood it looks like it is in good shape, he said the transmision was solid, the engine looked clean, and I forget exactly what part but something attached to the front of the engine was completely brand new and machined for him by a friend (sorry for the lack of knowledge on the part).
Since the battery is dead we couldn't test starting the car, but I was thinking that if I replaced the battery, put in fresh gas, changed the oil, changed the filters, lubbed up the belts, it would at least start if it couldn't already. Then further if I changed the spark plugs and did a basic cleaning of the engine it would run a little better.
I know it might be pretty hard to judge from this information but do you think it would be that hard to get it to run? He's offering $1600 and my budget is around $2200. I DIY a lot of projects so I wouldn't be taking this to any shop and I have done some car work so I know the basics, and right now all i want to do is get it to run. A friend of mine has the tools and abilities to weld and machine metal so I have that covered, so after knowing all of this what do you think the cost of the repairs would be? Or is there something I missed that would be so difficult I couldn't it my self?
Thanks in Advanced
Response From re-tired☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
You said you want an opinion. Here is my honest straight to the point OPINION. To make the car safe and reliable ,you will probably spend a couple times the asking price.Parts when needed will be exspensive . I dont know your mechanical ablity ,tools ,work space, equipment such as jacks,stands , oil collection /disposal ,diagnostic equipment such as meters , pressure gages/testers etc. First I would strongly advise you buy a set of factory shop manuals, not the cheap little paperbacks at the parts store. Off the top I would go thru the ign system plugs ,wires ,cap/rotor etc. The brake system would have to have new m.c ,calipers/wheel cyl. .brake lines checked for rotting ( brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the air). coolant and hoses should be changed..Tires need to be checked by a shop for dry rot and flat spots.Then there's the fuel system , If carb,,,,, replace . Seals will be hard/brittle, same with lines & pump . Having a friend who can weld wont be much help ,find a mechanic to mentor you..........Oh ,one last thing ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,WIPER BLADES>
Response From Tom Greenleaf
"He's offering $1600 and my budget is around $2200"
If that's your budget for this car forget it. Just whatever the oil leak is could cost double all that IMO. Sitting OUTDOORS all that time will have caused untold unseen and expensive problems.
From your post on situation I would consider this a parts car for another if you really wanted something of the sort and still need tons of money. As RT said - all rubber is in question and probably NG at this point,