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Genuine
2009 BMW 128i Spark Plug Genuine

P311-1BABE07    W0133-1891370  New

Qty:
Genuine Spark Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 12/01/2009-
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - BMW 128i Fr:12-01-09
Genuine
2011 BMW 128i Spark Plug Genuine

P311-1BABE07    W0133-1891370  New

Qty:
Genuine Spark Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 128i
Genuine
2007 BMW 335i Spark Plug Genuine

P311-1824EE5    W0133-1848326  New

Qty:
Genuine Spark Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Bosch ZGR6STE2
  • ZGR6STE2
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - BMW 335i
Genuine
2018 BMW X4 Spark Plug Genuine

P311-1BABE07    W0133-1891370  New

Qty:
Genuine Spark Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
  • NGK LZFR6AP11GS
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2018 - BMW X4 M40i
Bosch
2009 BMW 750i Spark Plug Bosch

P311-41BE4A3    W0133-1890525  New

Qty:
Bosch Spark Plug
  • Platinum
  • BOSCH ZR5TPP33
  • ZR5TPP33
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - BMW 750i
Genuine
2013 BMW M5 Spark Plug Genuine

P311-4988AE4    W0133-2034612  New

Qty:
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ZMR-5-TPP-330
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - BMW M5
Genuine
2018 BMW X4 Spark Plug Genuine

P311-4988AE4    W0133-2034612  New

Qty:
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • RB ZMR5TPP330
  • ZMR-5-TPP-330
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2018 - BMW X4 M40i
Denso
1991 BMW 318i Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.8L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.040 Long # PK20TT Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1991 - BMW 318i Naturally Aspirated L 1796 - M42 FI GAS
Denso
2000 BMW 323Ci Spark Plug 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.040 Long # PK20TT Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
2000 - BMW 323Ci Naturally Aspirated L 2494 152 M52 FI GAS
Denso
1999 BMW 750iL Spark Plug 12 Cyl 5.4L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.040 Long # PK20TT Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1999 - BMW 750iL Naturally Aspirated V 5379 - M73N FI GAS
Denso
1994 BMW 530i Spark Plug 8 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.040 Long # PK20TT Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1994 - BMW 530i Naturally Aspirated V 2997 - M60 FI GAS
Denso
1991 BMW 318i Spark Plug 4 Cyl 1.8L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1991 - BMW 318i Naturally Aspirated L 1796 - M42 FI GAS
Denso
2000 BMW 323Ci Spark Plug 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
2000 - BMW 323Ci Naturally Aspirated L 2494 152 M52 FI GAS
Denso
1999 BMW 750iL Spark Plug 12 Cyl 5.4L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1999 - BMW 750iL Naturally Aspirated V 5379 - M73N FI GAS
Denso
1994 BMW 530i Spark Plug 8 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-211A249    4504  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1994 - BMW 530i Naturally Aspirated V 2997 - M60 FI GAS
Denso
1995 BMW 750iL Spark Plug 12 Cyl 5.4L Denso

P311-5397A5F    4503  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Gap 0.040 Long # PK16TT Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1995 - BMW 750iL Naturally Aspirated V 5379 - M73 FI GAS
Denso
1995 BMW 750iL Spark Plug 12 Cyl 5.4L Denso

P311-5397A5F    4503  New

Qty:
$4.93
Denso Spark Plug
  • Platinum TT Plug - Twin-Tip Technology Design with Platinum Center Electrode and Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap
  • Platinum TT
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine Designation Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Type
1995 - BMW 750iL Naturally Aspirated V 5379 - M73 FI GAS
NGK
2000 BMW 323Ci Spark Plug 6 Cyl 2.5L NGK

P311-4FA6A2D    7092  New

Qty:
$4.91
NGK Spark Plug
  • 0.032"
  • G-Power Spark Plug
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - BMW 323Ci L 2494 152
NGK
1998 BMW 540i Spark Plug 8 Cyl 4.4L NGK

P311-4FA6A2D    7092  New

Qty:
$4.91
NGK Spark Plug
  • 0.032"
  • G-Power Spark Plug
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1998 - BMW 540i V 4398 -
NGK
1998 BMW 750iL Spark Plug 12 Cyl 5.4L NGK

P311-4FA6A2D    7092  New

Qty:
$4.91
NGK Spark Plug
  • 0.032"
  • G-Power Spark Plug
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 12
    • Most jobs typically require 12 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation
1998 - BMW 750iL V 5379 - M73N

Latest Bmw Repair and Spark Plug Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 BMW 330i Check Engine Light

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From FIXURFACE on 2001 BMW 330i Check Engine Light

Check engine light came on and had cheap reader put on car that said misfire detected . changed the spark plugs and still check engine light and then sounded like misfiring .. kinda backfire in the head sounded like or compression release of some sort. I then check the ignition coils by disconnecting each to see if could notice cylinder drop. each cylinder quit when disconnested ignition coils so says they are not completily bad. Just wondering what else should check before take it to the dealer

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What was the code number?

1986 BMW 325se

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Talis on 1986 BMW 325se

I just got a 1986 bmw 35se and i was told by the person who gave it to me that he drove it during the winter and it just stopped running at a friends house, i went out and bought a battery and tried to start it, it goes to turn over and sounds like it wants to fire... yet it doesn't im wondering if there is any common problem they had or if not what is the probable things that would cause that?

Response From Talis

ok i feel like a newb asking this but one of the problems i was told it could be is the coil, yet i have no idea where it is on that car, can anyone tell me perhaps what a 1986 bmw coil would look like? its a geourgous car with 300000 miles on it but i would like it to work... also what size socket do you usually need for spark plugs? i have 0 tools and have to buy some another problem posed was gas... where whould the fule filter be located?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not a Beamer head but I think 1986 was using a distributor and if you follow the middle wire it goes to the coil. If not a distributor set up it would be coil packs and I wouldn't know for that car if so. Good luck, T

Response From carjunky

I did a little reverse engineering on this one and looked for your car in the replacement parts catalog (up top) section of this site here's what I found.


BMW 325es Ignition Coil

So I'm going to assume that if they sell a part for it then the car has it.

As with knowing if this is the problem its hard to say but makes sense, could be a bad connection, or something may need replacement.... you might want to pick up a repair manual if you plan on keeping the car so that you could also see how to repair the car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Some more info would help. How long has this car not run? It could just be flooded and some spark plugs will NOT air dry.

Check for spark,

Check for a fuel problem. -- Spraying some starter fluid in it may make it kick but put the air cleaner back together as if it flashes at you it can cause a bad hair day!

If that works you need to check fuel pressure and problably should replace the plugs but don't mess up with the plug wires and leave them out for hours to dry out the engine.

Only guessing right now with a keyboard. T

Response From Talis

well it has been in operable since last winter... and when i get around to it i will try those things, but this is more of a modern american question... does anyone know what size botls i will ne to replace my 1990 ford f-150's clutch it was removed and the bolts lost last summer, also do you think its safe to just use it now even thou thetranny has been open to the elements for so long? its just been hanging under my truck without a clutch in it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - let's see what we can do here:

Trans is probably ok.

Check for severe rust on flywheel and if nasty get it machined.

Toss out the old pressure plate and throw-out bearin with good stuff.

Put a smear of high temp grease in pilot bushing

Get the bolts from Ford as I can't tell you the length or strenth they need to be and that's too important.

You didn't ask but don't let the trans hang on the clutch disc till you have a bolt or two tightened up or it can warp the clutch. It may work but the only fix is another new one.

Good time to check out U-joints and make sure trans is filled with proper oil/gear oil when level and back in.

If driveshaft has been out all this time consider trying to clean up the end that seals in at the rear of trans and a new seal.

Good luck - here to help, T

1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Showing 6 out of 22 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw on 1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Okay, so, my 1985 325e BMW has a serious problem and has had serious problems in the past... Here is a list of everything I've replaced:
-both fuel pumps, aux and in-tank
-all spark plugs and wires
-my distributor
-my starting solenoid
-all of my filters
-my obc (on board computer)
-battery
-ignition switch
-timing belt
-oil
-oxygen sensor

And here are other things you might need to know:
I have a spare motorolic control unit that i got from a pick and pull, both in-car and spare work just fine

After, and im NOT joking, about 10 hours of work over two days, I pulled my starter out and got it tested, it worked perfectly... wtf...

So, to my current problem...
I took my car to the movies with my girl, and as i started up i noticed that the car sugged and had difficulty trying to turn, so i figured a dead battery was the culprit, got my boost box out, hooked it up, and the sucker started no problem. In the 325e, the battery is in the trunk, so, I actually, and regrettably
left the booster on the battery and drove it home...

The car has not been the same since... Now, even to start it, I have to have a fully charged battery and a fully charged booster, even then I can hear the shaft rotate once, wait a second, rotate once, and wait until after about 10 seconds the car will start properly turning over and then start. When it starts it runs and idles perfectly fine with no problems until suddenly the engine stalls after about two miles, and then it wont crank even if i would have put a thousand volts through it...

So, I do believe i have an electrical problem somewhere in the car, and I do believe a serious one... the last time I tried to start it the freaking RIGHT SIDE PASSENGER SPEAKER STARTED BUZZING!! no the radio was not on... what the absolute ****, right?

I am literally at my wits end with this car, and I love the thing its my first car and I would love any feedback on what it might be... I'm only 17 so although I've worked on other cars and mine a bunch, my knowledge here is dimmed from my lack of experience... If there is anybody that could help it would be much appreciated Thank you!

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Ive noticed that most responses have to do with clean battery terminals, I have checked the battery connectors, and the terminal clamps, sanded them like crazy, and no joy, everything is the same ordeal...

Response From kev2

remove spark plugs and see if it engine spins at speed , let us know what happens ....

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

I've disconnected the boots, but no joy the car didn't even try... booster applied, car weakly attempted a rotation, put the boots back on, same result... Thanks for the reply, is there any other suggestions? Anything else I might have to do? I've also tried a push start, with no luck...

Response From Hammer Time

Disconnecting the"boots" is not removing the spark plugs.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw Top Rated Answer

Is that safe to do?? sorry it might seem like a stupid question... Is it safe to try a crank with no spark plugs? I've ran out of daylight for today, so Ill try that tomorrow, and post my findings...

Response From Hammer Time

Of course it is safe. You are just removing the compression to see if the engine spins freely.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Okay, have removed the spark plugs, tried to start it, made a slow awful grinding sound, stopped turning altogether. Put the plugs back in, connected everything, and... nothing new, tries a single slow rotation, cant and dies. Is there anything else it might be?

Response From Hammer Time

What you have just proven is that the engine is seizing. If the starter is good, then the engine is bad. Your bench test was not conclusive that the starter was good though.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

And also why wouldn't the starter be good? I had it tested at o'reillys auto parts, why wouldn't that be conclusive? Any help would be appreciated

Response From Hammer Time

The test wouldn't be conclusive because it was tested with no load on it and putting a load on it can make all the difference in the world. Just because it can spin when it isn't turning anything doesn't mean it can crank and engine.

Apparently I misunderstood your problem. I thought I read that your car wouldn't crank even with a good battery.

Everything you are saying points to a bad starter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree HT - strong guess on my part is starter is just weak so far and jumps helped but most people don't have good enough jump boxes or cables nor really should unless sure go right to starter and skip the battery out back bull.
That would better prove the starter is NG. 1985! I'd have that starter apart myself (brushes no good likely) also not DIY friendly for most,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Thanks very much for all the feedback guys, I appreciate it! Ill try and scrap together for a new starter and ohm test everything again, and check my grounding points and my amp delivery... Even if its not the starter its still good to put a new one on. that particular starter was used on the e30 starting at '79... who knows how long it sat around before being put in my car? Plus the car has over 300,000 miles on it, its probably due one anyway , I appreciate all the help guys, thanks a bunch. If i can get a new starter and get the car up and running, Ill definitely use this forum for any other repairs or concerns, Ill update again tomorrow night after most of the day with the car... no school, no nothing but us

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't go looking but suspect this starter is quite pricey. If up to it check out some YouTube or similar to see how you take one apart and bet you can still buy just brushes and clean this one up.
That or ask around if someone in your area does starter, alternators etc on site. Perhaps 90% of them will just need brushes, bearing checked and contacts cleaned up, lube areas and make them look new again for sale as rebuilt - you can do that.
Off the wall: The older the electric motor the better they were for the amount of metal and real copper used to the point you could machine them down but just "emory" cloth done well should do.
Brushes are like compressed charcoal brickette looking material things and ride on contacts pushed by spring - get sticky, too shiny or plain worn out. IDK, makes more sense when right there see what it does.
You can test one with a car power battery source on the bench or shop floor and watch them work but there's no load on it but do before putting it in then can know how much power it can do not just turn.
Takes some time. You'd be ticked paying a tech's rate vs whole already done ones except for real new ($$) they really want your old one back - note that!


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Sorry I didn't get on yesterday like I promised guys, there was other stuff going on... Thanks for the tip!! I think that if i can hook up the battery and find that the starters at fault, Ill just buy a new one... I say this because the new starter isn't terribly priced: around 70$, and that it would be easier than to rip the old 30+ year starter apart and clean it (which I've never done in my life, and with my luck screw it up), plus then I have no garentee that it will work in the aftermath... It would take longer to rip apart the old one and clean it then to put a fresh new one back in, even if it will save me a couple bucks... Plus its an easier feeling starting up with a new one than a 30+ year old one lol. So, ill post this weekend on my findings, hopefully the starter is the culprit and the moderators can close down a tread they could have worked out in less than a day haha. Thanks for the posts everybody! If there are any other ideas, feel free to leave a comment!! Ill consider anything at this point

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are right. 70$ for anything on a BMW is just change. I suggest keeping old one (core) for a while if possible at all and maybe try seeing how they come apart and go together as it's so much like other electric motors you may have to someday or get out priced.
It's just hard to explain and I'm not set up for a movie on it.
Good luck with it,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

RESOLVED!!!
So, I got the new started a few weeks back, put it in and... nothing... The car had the same issue as before... So, i pulled my battery out and noticed that the sides were bulging out a little. I went to go get it tested and they put a real load on it and noticed it had possibly a broken or bad cell in it... WOW, this whole time... I guess that booster did some real damage to the battery as it was on for the ride home... I cant believe it was such a stupid easy fix lol, considering it didn't even cost me anything because i had a warranty on it because it is a BRAND NEW BATTERY lol... so, I just posted this to follow up on what had happened.. just maybe to help anybody out there with any similar problems. When I got home and threw the new one on, the car started no problem. I did notice it was backfiring pretty bad so I shut it off, checked my spark plug wire pattern and found i had mixed two... fixed it now and it runs like a dream! Ive learned loads during this problem, and im kinda angry it was such an easy fix. Thank you kindly for everybody that posted and tried to help, I really appreciate it. I will use this blog next time I have any other troubles. Thank you and god bless you if you have this same problem... its a weird thing to deal with and can be a load of problems.

Response From Discretesignals

Glad to read you got it resolved. Thank you for the follow up Thread closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off testing from these type parts outlets prove nothing IMO. You've said it tries to crank just barely now say it idles fine? Now I'm confused enough.
IDK - I totally prefer testing a starter on the engine with that engine with known good power to it. Jumper cables and boxes are not reliable unless you absolutely know cable are up to it and connected where they have to deliver power (AMPS) to a starter.


What's really going on? Have you messed up installing the starter and was the POS cable to it in good shape there?
Pretty sure this runs heavy gauge real copper POS battery cable right to starter and used body for ground and another cable grounding body to engine block. All must be known good.
So if this engine now can run properly however you got it started this is slowly ruling out a tight engine from seizing but could easily test for voltage drops alone both at battery and again what it reads at starter while cranking if it drops below about 9V you have a huge draw, bad battery, cables, connections..........


T

Response From kev2

lets test another way
leave the plugs out for now... use a breaker bar and socket on crank shaft try to spin engine - its a little engine* no compression should spin over easy...let us know.
you claim starter is good, and you are throwing 500+ amps at that starter yet will not spin a no compression engine.


*@150 cid

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Im confused then, if it idles perfectly, and runs okay... then how could the engine be bad if the car just has a terrible time trying to crank? is there anything else i can look at or anything else that would make sense to try?

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

hmm... okay, ill take a wack at it after school tomorrow, thanks man, Im curious at what this will test.

car wont start

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jgbc12 on car wont start

Hello. My car is a BMW 04 325i 4.0. After the big snow storm here in va. my car will not start, it cranks but that is it. I tried the jumper cables, but didn't work. Anybody has any ideas??

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That snow is national news! Being from a snow belt I'll say that snow alone shouldn't stop the car from starting, in fact possibly less apt to cause issues than flooding rains.

What you need to check is what's missing - spark or fuel. Test a spark plug for spark and prime throttle body for a fuel test. If that allows it to kick over then fuel is the area to start chasing. If exceptionally cold (didn't think it was with this storm) or wind blew snow all under the hood let us know.

With heavy snow around it will probably be difficult to hear fuel pump because of sound deadening of area snow. Check anyway.

Report what you find or don't find and see what we can do from there,

T

Overheating issue

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From polito353 on Overheating issue

Hello,
Last week my gf was driving her BMW 325 ci 2002 and seems like one of the serpentine belts broke. By the moment she stopped the car ( like 5 secs later ), there was some white steam coming out of the hood because some water was coming out of the radiator ( looks like the old owner put some glue in an old little hole and now, due to the heat, the water was splashing out of the radiator ). She said that after the mechanic took out 2 serpentine belts, she was asked to drive for 1/4 mile to a warehouse where they had more tools and stuff... She says the car had very little power. Until here everything sounds normal. But I have couple of Q:
1) Is it possible that in 4 days the battery lost all its power and is not providing enough power to turn on the engine.
2) Why does the computer say that 3 of the cylinders are misfiring but the car still turns on ( with a new battery ) ? ( alternator problem maybe? )

I know I have to replace the radiator, but I not clear about everything else. I am scared to move the car because the computer gives me an error that apparently does not exist ( car turns on ).

Thanks for the help in advance, I will update whatever happens.

Response From Hammer Time

You can't drive the vehicle without a belt because the belt operates the water pump and running it without a water pump can cause serious overheating and possible internal damage. This may have already happened if it's misfiring. The description of your repair shop makes this sound like they may be some inexperienced "wanna be" techs.

Response From Discretesignals


She said that after the mechanic took out 2 serpentine belts, she was asked to drive for 1/4 mile to a warehouse where they had more tools and stuff.




What the heck? Tell her to have the vehicle towed to a professional repair shop that is licensed and insured.

Response From polito353

She drove that 1/4 mile with only one serpentine belt, sorry I did not specify I am not very knowledgeable about cars.
Tnx

Response From Hammer Time

Not very knowledgeable about owning one either......................

So. let me get this straight. After driving it to this so called warehouse and us telling you that was a very bad idea, you then drove it home.

You apparently don't listen to warnings and you have no mechanical ability so I don't know what you expect to do.
There is a real good chance that you have done serious internal damage already so the only advice i have for you is to hae it towed to a reputable repair shop.

Response From polito353 Top Rated Answer

You are not understanding... I know about owning BMW but I will not extend on that argument...

The car broke in point X, after that my gf drove 1/4 mile with one serpentine belt, the other one was already broken and taken out.
Obviously the guy so called mechanic could not solve anything and we TOWED to my house. Now the car is in the driveway and I am trying to get some help.

As I explained, the car is not starting and I am trying to find a solution. I am not in a hurry because I have transportation, but I would like to repair the BMW or call a mechanic to do so.

I was thinking that it might be something avoiding electricity to the spark plugs. But, since I told you, I am not very knowledgeable and I am asking if you guys think of something that i can check.

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

If you think you're going to attempt this yourself, you need to read this

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/IF_YOUR_STARTER_CRANKS_THE_ENGINE_BUT_IT_WILL_NOT_START_P75655/

Response From polito353

I understand... Now the car in in the driveway at the house. When I try to start the car, it makes the initial sound ( goes to 500rpm ) like a normal car but never starts. Might it happen that the spark plugs are not getting enough power to work? What do you guys think?
I checked the oil and does not look like the oil is mixed with water.
No weird lights coming up in the dashboard either.