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Karlyn
2012 Ram 1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Karlyn

P311-06A5275    New

Qty:
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Karlyn Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Karlyn
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Vehicle
2012 - Ram 1500
Mopar
2012 Ram 1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Mopar

P311-0CFF7B2    New

Qty:
$66.70
Mopar Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Ram 1500
Mopar
2013 Ram 1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Mopar

P311-0CFF7B2    New

Qty:
$66.70
Mopar Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Twin Plug System, For Exhaust Side Plugs
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Ram 1500
Standard Wires
Qty:
$33.39
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Ram Dakota V - 285
Standard Wires
Qty:
$34.45
  • Ignition Wire And Boot Kit
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Ram 1500 V - 226
Standard Wires
Qty:
$53.28
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Ram Dakota V - 285
Standard Wires
Qty:
$80.80
  • Ignition Wire And Boot Kit OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Ram 1500 V - 285

Latest Ram Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Re: Dodge Ram won't start during/after rain

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From redrocker1fan on Re: Dodge Ram won't start during/after rain

Same problem. have 1999 dodge ram 1500. Only had problem a couple of times a year where I lived before - after rainy days. Now that I have moved to the coast - having same problem as you. I just tried to go to work and couldn't get the truck to start - only had a little misty rain today. Has to dry out for a couple of hours IF the sun comes out. Somebody suggested spraying the distributor with something that would get the moisture out - but can't remember what it was - any easy fixes besides buying something else?

Response From smcvey

If you figure it out let me know. I still have problems with it. And it's mostly misty damp days, not just rain. I wonder how many others have this problem.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

The spray suggested was WD-40. The WD stands for water displacing. If you have condensation in the distributor cap, most likely you have a bad cap. Shouldn't be any water in there. Also check your spark plug wires. When they age the boots don't seal as well for moisture and can cause this problem. Typically giving it a full tune-up is the fix, and if this is still running the factory cap, rotor, wires and plugs its time to do them anyway.

Response From way2old

We have made a moisture deflector and attached it to the top of the cowl. This diverts the water away from the distributor cap and helps keep the cap dry.

Response From Sidom

That's a good suggestion...

I would take it one step further and shield the PCM connecter as well

Response From Hammer Time

I have detached your post a created a new question for you. That was a year old question you responded to

1994 Dodge RAM van loses power after rain

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1994 Dodge RAM van loses power after rain

I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 1/2 ton conversion van. During or after a rain, it sputters and loses power (especially when going up a hill....when more power is needed). During these episodes, it will jerk and drop it's speed to a crawl.

My husband changed the distributor cap, spark plugs and wires and this didn't change it. A friend of ours spray painted some wires (near the upper right section when looking at the opened hood). He said it would seal the wires. I'm not sure what these wires are going to.

It seems a bit better now. At least the loss of power doesn't last as long...it will pick back up like normal after driven for a mile or so. I haven't attempted to drive it in the rain though, so I'm just referring to after a rain that it is better.

Our mechanic doesn't have a clue about what it could be. Any suggestions?

Thanks!!
Barb
bdcarr@ktis.net

Response From dmac0923

this is usually a symptom of your spark plug wires arcing. try to find out what wires your friend spray painted? spray painting obviously is not the proper repair. paint is not a good insulator for electricity

if he felt the wires had to be sealed he must have seen some chauffing of the wire insulations exposing the wire and that also is arcing.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your reply...but let me ask a follow-up.

To get to the spark plugs you have to take the doghouse off (inside the van). They can't be seen from outside, looking under the hood. So, I know this is not what the friend spray painted. I have my husband hunt him down (he was only here briefly, out of town) and ask what these wires go to.

Could the new spark plug wires my husband but in have been done incorrectly? I thought it was a pretty straightforward thing. I just hate for him to go to the immense hassle of getting that doghouse off again if there is another source of the problem. Once off, those plugs and wires weren't easy to get to.

Thanks!
Barb

Response From Guest

I suggest checking your air intake, sounds like your getting moisture in the air system while driving in the rain.

Response From way2old

It is possible the friend sprayed the relays up above the battery. Look at this area closely and see if you see any corrosion under the paint application your friend sprayed. This is not a good thing to do around electrical componets. Some of them are very sensitive to minor changes in current or voltage. There is an auto-shut down relay in there that will cause problems with running or starting. I will try to remember to look at the shop Monday toi see if I can offer any more information. Come on in here Dodge guys.

1995 Ford Aspire

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From fedup on 1995 Ford Aspire

I purchased this Ford Aspire used from 'some guy'. He claimed he fixed the radiator but there is a crack in the radiator, right next to the opening where you pour the coolant. Having never bought a used car before, I didn't think to check and see if he really fixed the radiator, which he apparently didn't.

The car overheats after about 3-4 miles. There is a knocking noise when trying to accelerate. When I first start the car, it shuts off, check engine light, fluid lights come on. I have to start it 2 or 3 times, pushing the accelerator gently before I can get it to drive. Can a sealant like JB Weld hold a crack in the radiator and for how long? I just put duct tape on it. Will that get me to a repair shop?

What could be the knocking noise I hear?

Please help! I am sooo frustrated!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's iffy with the JB weld type product to seal a leak that must hold pressure. I'm sure this tank is plastic and not much is very dependable except replacing it. Problem is worse than that! If you've driven it hot to the point of knocking it's probably done that several times already so the radiator may be just the beginning of the troubles,

T

Response From fedup Top Rated Answer

A friend's husband looked at my car this weekend and found that the spark plug wires were not attached. Why Precision Tune didn't notice that I don't know! My friend told me to just keep putting water in the radiator and check the oil daily b/c there are oil leaks. As he was working on the car, one of the fans began to work but the other is still broken. He suggests it may be a fuse. With the spark plug wires attached and me putting water in every morning has helped a lot and it's driving right now but I am still not real comfortable driving it b/c I fear it could overheat or worse at anytime, or that I'm doing more harm by driving it.

Still, it stalls, it has a hard time starting up (I have to try 3-4 times) and if I'm driving under 25 mph, or idling at a stop light, it will just cut off. It won't shift into another gear when going up a steep hill. My main concern is the shutting off...I'm afraid someone will ram into me at a stop light. Any idea of what that could be? It only happens when I'm going under 25mph. When I'm above 35 she drives fine. I had the battery and the alternator checked and they are both fine. Any advice?

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There are a lot of things going on here. 1. Is this leak at the radiator or the recovery tank? Tank would be an easy and cheaper fix and they can work with silicone adhesive/sealant from the outside if it is not a pressurized part of the cooling system.

The problems with stalling and how it behaves in general need to be addressed by going thru all the tune-up type items, checking for wiring problems, vacuum leaks etc. a real check out and get a code read as it might tell of what might be wrong but I don't expect this to be a one part fix.

You said this was your first used car. There are lots of good used cars out there, it's just tough to know at first without a lot checking them out or paying the higher price of the glitter lots that just don't sell problem cars and they can be the bargain in the long run.

How far do you want to go with this car money wise?

T

Response From fedup

There is a crack in the actual (plastic) radiator, not the tank, right next to the opening where you put the fluid.

I'll get a tune up done and hope that helps.

I paid $700 for the car and knew I would have to put another $2-300, maybe $400 into it. I just need it to last me through February. Is it worth putting in a new radiator or would patching it with the Bars Leak work for 6 months? Is it worth putting in a new distributor if that's really what I need to do? I'm willing to do both the radiator and the distributor as long as I can feel comfortable knowing that I won't need a transmission in the next few months.

I'll write back after the tune up with any codes to get your thoughts on the next step. I will have the transmission checked this weekend as well.

Thanks. You guys are great!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not to scare you but expecting $200-$400 to fix up a car is unrealistic. This car should be better than average for costs. An example of nasty is just replacing the plastic headlight lenses on a certain model of Volvo can be $700 or more!

You radiator may not cost too much but might be a bear to install. I don't know that car specifically. It's sad but costs for repairs can quickly be more than the car's book value. Sometimes you get lucky and simple things are causing a big problem,

T