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1971 - International Scout II L 3802 232
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1973 - International 1010 V - 345
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1974 - International Scout II L 3203 196
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1974 - International 100 V 6571 401
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1973 - International 1010 V 6424 392
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1980 - International Cargostar V - 446
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1971 - International 1310 V 5654 345
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1980 - International Cargostar V - 537
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1974 - International Scout II L 3203 196
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1974 - International 100 V 5654 345
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1974 - International 100 V 6571 401
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1973 - International 1010 V 6424 392
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1980 - International Cargostar V - 446
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1971 - International 1310 V 5654 345
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1980 - International S1624

Latest International Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 pt cruise problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From hawkgirl on 2005 pt cruise problems

my check engine light is on and my car stumbles like it wants to die..i took it to auto zone and they said its a code301 cylinder 1 misfire...does anyone know what that is and what how to fix it....help

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Cylinder misfires can be caused by a faulty spark plug,spark plug wire,fuel injector,ignition coil..etc
Or worst case scenerio,internal engine problem.

You should take it in to have it diagnosed so you just don't throw parts at it.
Probably won't hurt to have it "tuned up"..New plugs ,wires ,filters..etc.


Jim

1993 Sentra 1.6 Again

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From bill k on 1993 Sentra 1.6 Again

HI all, well it has been a few months since we changed the injectors, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and MAF and the car was running really nice. Now all of a sudden at idle it is running real rough and with the AC on it almost quits. Where do I go from here????????

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Bill; There's a lot of reasons it could be running 'rough'. By pulling the spark plugs and taking a look will tell a lot.
If no vacuum leaks are found, might take a compression test while the plugs are out. Report back with how the plugs looked. White, dark, wet, dry, and what cylinders they came out of. Also, compression readings.

Response From bill k

Ok been busy this weekend with a roof repair, but here is what I found yesterday and today
Number 2 spark plug full of black soot & carbon fouled, all other plugs look great so I swapped plugs one and two to see what happened. Today wife said no change so I checked again, one is great, number two is all black and sooty again. traced wire to distributer in case it was loose and found bottom of distributer is wet with oil and the lowest wire on the cap is Number Two, did not pull cap off, want to see what you all think......

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

bill; That would very suspicious, of course. I've seen distributors leak oil internally, before. Remove the cap and take a look. If it is oily inside, replace it, of course. To buy yourself some time, you could get a spray can of electrical cleaner and clean the inside of the distributor. Be sure to give it a lot of time to dry, though. If you don't, you could literally blow the cap off when you try to start it. It is also very possible that you've got a bad spark plug wire on that cylinder, or even a compression issue. But, first things first.

Response From Guest

Here is what I have done, there was some evidence of the inner oil seal shaft of the distributer leaking but there was no oil on the electrodes inside the cap so I put the old saved distrubuter cap back on, put the old saved number two plug wire back on and ran it around the block, same thing, misfiring, or running rough at idle, seems to run fine when I give it the gas, pulled number two plug it is all black and sooty, pulled one and three plugs they are all firing normally, got my compression gauge out, Number one and three both around 150 number two is 110, I even pulled and cleaned the IAC as suggested in the haynes manual, it was slightly dusty, cleaned and put it back in, no difference
The black sooty plug condition indicates it is running too rich, how can that be we just recently changed all the injectors???

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Are the #2 & #3 wires close enough to the same length that you could swap them, to see if the miss moves to 3?
Could be an injector problem (too much fuel), a vacuum leak on that cylinder, or a loss of spark. 110# compression isn't anything to write home about, but enough for the cylinder to fire. And, if it's getting fuel washed, would explain why the compression is down. Another thought...have you checked valve clearances? A tight (or partially burned) valve could cause these symptoms.

Response From bill k

The miss did not move with the wire swap. If it was getting too much fuel I thought the plug would be wet and not fire at all. This is all black and sooty which I understand to mean it is firing but not burning the gas completly. When I gun it, (Pedal to the Metal) it blasts off like it was new. it goes to hell at idle and with the AC on it almost quits. That distributer is still getting wet with oil and I wonder about that. I called the injector warehouse and they said it if is a bad injector they will send another one. But that is a lot of work, I am hoping for something simple .

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Bill; You must be to the point of pulling out your hair! I feel for ya'. The black, sooty, plug says too much fuel. Assuming (I hate that word) that the cylinder is getting ample spark, we're getting down to either a faulty injector or a valve problem, I think. I'm just wondering if the problem could be from an unseen problem with the distributor cap? Maybe, a carbon track that you can't see? If you're getting moisture in the cap, it's a definite possibility.
I remember that you replaced the injectors, but not why. Were you getting the same results, on the same cylinder? If so, the odds of a faulty injector just went way down. By swapping the wires, you've eliminated the spark plug wires as the problem. I think I'd try a dist. cap...cheap and easy. But, you're going to have to deal with the oil leak eventually. If you don't want to check valve clearances, which you really should if everything else checks out, you could try swapping #2 & #3 injectors to see if the problem moves.

Response From bill k

Ripping my hair out is more like it. You don't know what you ask swapping injectors, gotta take half the motor apart just to get at em. Last time I did that I broke the MAF in the process. I think it was number 4 cylinder that was the problem the last time. The distributer is mounted sideways and it has oil on the outside bottom, when I pull the cap off the inside lip has some oil on it. That tells me it is leaking internally thru a shaft seal. I cannot get at what is inside the damn thing because it all electronic and the rubber seal between the cap and the body is both swollen and torn. There is some magic hocus pocus that goes on inside there that takes the place of points, condenser and a vacuum advance. The cap is new, so was the one I originally replaced, I saved the cap and wires too. I've been fooling with cars for 40 years and never had this much trouble fixing something.

For kicks I looked at my Jeep Grand Cherokee V-8 today and everything is right out in the open, I can swap injectors, pull plugs with ease etc, on this computer operated Nissan I am working in the dark, I have yet to find the computer that is located somewhere under the dash behind the radio and AC controls.

This #2 plug is firing, it just don't have enough grit in the fire. I connected a timing light to the wire and it shows the electric is flowing to the plug, how much is another guess.

I am thinking to try to find a used distributer at a junk yard, since you cannot repair them anymore. There is a magical module in there that cost about a hundred bucks or more to buy

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Bill; Glad to hear that you still have a sense of humor after all of this. Yes, the ignition control modules in the distributor are so expensive, it's usually cheaper to buy a reman. distributor than to replace parts in it. Although the distributor is a need, I really don't think that is the source of your problem. I still keep coming back, in my mind...what's left of it, to compression, valves, and injector. Could be way off, but... You have checked for external problems, like vacuum hoses, EGR? Not sure what intake port the EGR mounts. / Just for a reference. Price: $199.99
Just checked, labor to replace all injectors calls for one hour. Can't be that tough. Injector resistance should be 10 ohms. Also, be sure to check the injector connectors as they are a known trouble spot.

Response From bill k

I called the Injector Warehouse and they are sending me a replacement injector (free) I am looking for a used Distributer, any ideas there?

It took me over one hour just to disassemble the car enough to get at the injectors, all the hoses are not easy after years of being stuck on there and the injectors do not just pop out after 14 years, they put up a great struggle to stay in there. Getting them out with out breaking the top off is a time consuming and delicate operation if you want your 10 dollar each core fee back.

Today I discovered that if I stomp on the gas from a start the car runs great. if I just start off normally it bucks and struggles to get going but once up to speed it runs smooth. DOES THAT MEAN ANYTHING TO YOU??

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Bill; Before you go to the trouble of replacing the injector, check the resistance and the connector. It's been so long since this thread started, I can't remember if you've checked this injector with a noid light to make sure it is even getting an electrical pulse. Noid lights are very inexpensive if you don't have one. Many times, under higher rpms, people just won't notice the misfire.

Response From bill k

Now there is a new word. What is a noid light?

Bill

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Noid; That's eastern US speech for nerd. No, just kidding. A noid light is a little light that plugs into the injector connector and illuminates in accordance with the command from the PCM. You can tell if the harness is supplying voltage to the injector, and depending on the demand, you can actually see how often it sends 'pulses'. / Not a very good picture, and I think you can buy them individually, rather than a set.

Response From bill k

I put a mechanic's stethoscope on and listened to the injectors. The #2 did not sound at all like the other three, so I called the Injector Warehouse people to see what they thought and the next day, a knock on the door, it's FEDEX with another injector at no charge. That is great customer service. Still looking for a replacement Distributer, that leaking oil internally cannot be good.

Bill

95 pontiac sunfire SMOKING EXHAUST MANIFOLD

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From bigchillenhustla on 95 pontiac sunfire SMOKING EXHAUST MANIFOLD

CAR History
I recently did a "head job" changing the head gasket and all seals and valves because the car overheated. I've been driving the car for six months and on only three cylinders because one spark plug wire didn't work which is why the engine was idling so hard. I fixed that and the engine is silent and has more power. Two weeks later I drive it on the freeway, it broke down on me.
Problem
IT WONT START, AND WHEN IT BARELY DOES START, IT MAKES INTERNAL LOUD NOISES, A LOT OF SMOKE COMES OUT FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, IDLES ROUGH, WHEN I PUT THE GEAR IN DRIVE AND LIGHTLY STEP ON THE GAS PEDAL THE CAR SHUTS OFF, MY CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS ALSO BROKEN, MAKES LOUT NOISES, ALSO ...ALL FOUR OF MY SPARK PLUGS WERE BLACK SO I CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS BUT STILL THE SAME....
My Guess
Could it be the rings??? Is the piston hitting my valves causing the loud noise??? No compression???

HELP!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

bigchillen... You drove it on three cylinders for six months and are just now having problems? And your cat is bad?
Go figure! You should get down on your knees and thank that poor little thing for giving you six more months of it's life. It sounds, from your symptoms, that is over fueling. There are many reasons this could be happening. A common fault is a loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor. If it's been over fueling all this time, the crankcase could have more fuel in it than oil, which would explain the noise. You need to address the over fueling first, then change the oil and filter, and pray. If it survives, then, you will be looking at replacing the catalytic converter.

Response From bigchillenhustla


I forgot to mention that two of my fuel injectors were badly leaking, I bought two new ones, but one was defected and its still leaking but the other one is fine.

So... I should get another fuel injector, change the oil and filter and ask god for forgiveness.

Or whats the best way to address the over fueling???


Any suggestions.

Thank you.

PS ..im not too familiar with the MAP sensor, whats that again?? This is my first semester in amech!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Oh, my. I'm almost at a loss for words. (almost). I don't think automobiles are on the Good Lords' short list of priorities. Sorry. This leaky injector; Is it leaking internally, or externally? If it's leaking internally, that would definitely cause a flooding condition and a misfire. The misfire could cause low manifold vacuum which would make the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator to go rich, causing a domino effect.
If it's leaking externally, and you know it...Post your address and we'll supply the weenies and marshmallows.
First semester at amech? Not familiar with that.

Response From bigchillenhustla

I am sure that the fuel injector is leaking externally. The seal just does not work, no matter how many new seals I get. The old one leaked internally from the plug. This one is leaking around it. It's a "push-in-fit" injector.

So you think my fuel pressure regulator is messed up??? I will get a new one. If it works, I'll get some steaks, salmon a grill and we could start a bbq.

Maybe I have a blown head gasket again. I did a compression test before this problem and two cylinders in the middle are extremely low, but the car ran fine until I drove it on the freeway a few weeks later.

God is a forgiving person.

thank you.

amech is an engine rebuilding class at my community college.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Installing the injector rail with the injectors connected can be very tricky...Easy seasoned veterans can damage an O ring during replacement. There is a small O ring at the top of the injector where it attaches to the fuel rail and a larger one where the injector goes into the manifold. Also, it is not uncommon for the injector bodies to leak, which requires replacement of the injector. But, regardless of what's leaking, you can't drive it like this. The marshmallows and weenies were for the engine fire that is going to happen if you don't fix this. NOW.
And, yes, God is a forgiving God. Thank God!

Ford Focus Not Sparking

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jackhud on Ford Focus Not Sparking

Hello,

My 1.6 Zetec Focus lost the spark to plug four in the cold weather. I have just replaced the whole set of plugs and leads but still have no spark to plug four. Any idea's on the problem?

cheers

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

There’s a good chance that it’s the coil pack that is at fault
Even though we didn’t get the year from you and I don’t see a listing for a 1.6lt (2.0lt maybe and there are two different of them) engine for a Focus; I believe they all had distributor less ignition systems. One system uses a coil pack (Integrated Ignition) the other has individual coils for each cylinder (Coil On Plug). With you saying; you replaced the ignition wires; I’m assuming it’s an integrated coil pack system.
Numbers 1&4 are on one coil and 2&3 cylinders are on the other coil; both coils are housed in one coil pack.
One half of one coil in the pack’s secondary outputs may have shorted to ground; in this case #4. The coil is still producing spark; because #1 cylinder is still running; but the spark for #4 is no being directed to the #4 spark plug wire, but to ground, internal of the coil.
Just a guess on my part; but I’ve had to replace a number of coil packs for this reason.

Dan.

1990 honda accord lx 2.2

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From nitearrest on 1990 honda accord lx 2.2

I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX 2.2L it has been sitting for a couple of years..The people I got it from thought the fuel pump was out because it wouldn't start. When I finally had time to check on it, I found that rats had ate the wires to the fuel pump. I fixed those and I have fuel pumping now. However it wont start. I found that i do have fire to the distributor but i am getting no spark to the plugs. I have now replaced the ECU, the Main Relay, Battery, New Distributor and all new parts inside it, plus new cap and rotor. I know the ignitor is working cause it shocked the crap out of me and couldnt feel my hand for a while. The internal coil has been replaced and I am still not getting any fire to the plugs..I can't figure it out..The only other thing I have had to replace at this point is one fuse and it was to the ECU. Everything else looks fine I can't find loose wires or bad grounds. What am I missing. I have fuel, I have fire to the distributor. Why wont it come out and get a spark to the plugs????? Help me please this is getting expensive..

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

How about the spark plug wires? Did you ohm check them to see if they are good? Max resistance the wires can have is 25K ohms.

Response From nitearrest

well didnt find my ohm meter but found one of my sons friends who stuck a screwdriver in the cap ends and let me turn it over...lol..he didn't get bit but i was hoping...i know thats not the proper way to check it but it was funny...whats the next suggestion

Response From Discretesignals

When you crank the engine is the rotor spinning in the distributor?

Response From nitearrest

everythings else is working perfect rotor timing belt,,etc.. i even took the valve cover off and made sure nothing was broke on the top and that it was getting oil..everything is working properly but no spark still...