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Seiwa
1993 Hyundai Excel Spark Plug Wire Set Seiwa

P311-12B1215    W0133-1650561  New

Qty:
$24.67
Seiwa Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/17/1993-
Brand: Seiwa
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Hyundai Excel
Beru
1994 Hyundai Sonata Spark Plug Wire Set Beru

P311-16BBCFE    W0133-1649063  New

Qty:
$23.31
Beru Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Beru
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Hyundai Sonata
Prenco
2001 Hyundai XG300 Spark Plug Wire Set Prenco

P311-3C3B389    W0133-1621879  New

Qty:
$59.12
Prenco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • 3 Wire Set
  • This ignition wire set contains 3 wires. The Prenco set also includes 3 coil boots and springs.
  • - 3 Wire Set+Coil Boots
Brand: Prenco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Hyundai XG300
NGK
1992 Hyundai Elantra Spark Plug Wire Set NGK

P311-295BEDB    W0133-1620701  New

Qty:
$33.33
NGK Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Coil wire not required for this application. -rbh 12/99
  • ME64 NGK
Brand: NGK
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Hyundai Elantra
NGK
1993 Hyundai Elantra Spark Plug Wire Set NGK

P311-295BEDB    W0133-1620701  New

Qty:
$33.33
NGK Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Coil wire not required for this application. -rbh 12/99
  • ME64 NGK
Brand: NGK
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Hyundai Elantra
Standard Wires
2003 Hyundai Sonata Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 2.7L Standard Wires

P311-2DD13E9    27707  New

Qty:
$36.59
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - Hyundai Sonata V 2656 -
Standard Wires
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 2.7L Standard Wires

P311-2DD13E9    27707  New

Qty:
$36.59
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Old Body Style Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Hyundai Santa Fe V 2656 -
Standard Wires
2001 Hyundai Santa Fe Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-1C8F277    27574  New

Qty:
$15.62
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Hyundai Santa Fe L 2351 -
Standard Wires
2000 Hyundai Elantra Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.0L Standard Wires

P311-23C5515    27553  New

Qty:
$29.48
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - Hyundai Elantra L 1975 -
Standard Wires
2002 Hyundai XG350 Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.5L Standard Wires

P311-2BFB1F5    27709  New

Qty:
$37.40
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Hyundai XG350 V 3500 -
Standard Wires
2001 Hyundai Accent Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 1.6L Standard Wires

P311-18655A4    27554  New

Qty:
$25.86
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
2001 - Hyundai Accent L 1600 - DOHC
Standard Wires
1997 Hyundai Accent Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 1.5L Standard Wires

P311-18655A4    27554  New

Qty:
$25.86
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • From 12/96 Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
1997 - Hyundai Accent L 1495 - DOHC
Standard Wires
1999 Hyundai Accent Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 1.5L Standard Wires

P311-3AF3B17    27544  New

Qty:
$13.55
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
1999 - Hyundai Accent L 1495 - SOHC
Beck Arnley
2005 Hyundai Tucson Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 2.7L Beck Arnley

P311-5EF4434    175-6215  New

Qty:
$51.63
Beck Arnley Spark Plug Wire Set
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - Hyundai Tucson V 2656 -
Beck Arnley
1999 Hyundai Elantra Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-2206177    175-6166  New

Qty:
$29.04
Beck Arnley Spark Plug Wire Set
  • PREMIUM DIAMETER MM 7mm WIRE COLOR Black CONDUCTOR TYPE Mag Core 500 ohm/ft JACKET MATERIAL Silicone
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1999 - Hyundai Elantra L 1975 -
Beck Arnley
1996 Hyundai Elantra Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 1.8L Beck Arnley

P311-2206177    175-6166  New

Qty:
$29.04
Beck Arnley Spark Plug Wire Set
  • PREMIUM; From 12/95 DIAMETER MM 7mm WIRE COLOR Black CONDUCTOR TYPE Mag Core 500 ohm/ft JACKET MATERIAL Silicone
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Hyundai Elantra L 1795 -
Beck Arnley
2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.5L Beck Arnley

P311-44F751A    175-6195  New

Qty:
$46.17
Beck Arnley Spark Plug Wire Set
  • PREMIUM DIAMETER MM 7mm WIRE COLOR Black CONDUCTOR TYPE Mag Core 500 ohm/ft JACKET MATERIAL Silicone
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - Hyundai Santa Fe V 3500 -
Standard Wires
1990 Hyundai Sonata Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-2285E9B    27450  New

Qty:
$12.57
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1990 - Hyundai Sonata L 2351 -
Standard Wires
2001 Hyundai Santa Fe Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-1BF7CC8    7574  New

Qty:
$23.78
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Hyundai Santa Fe L 2351 -
Standard Wires
2004 Hyundai XG350 Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.5L Standard Wires

P311-2C9F6AE    7717  New

Qty:
$44.48
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Hyundai XG350 V 3500 -

Latest Hyundai Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 hyundai accent hard to start when cold & lack of power

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From michael6390 on 1997 hyundai accent hard to start when cold & lack of power

I have a hyundai accent 97 sohc 1.5 in good conditions. 120 000 km but I have problems to start when the engine is cold, but warm weather outside. Starter runs well but for a long time and hesitations when the engine starts. battery, genuine sparks plugs & wires and coils are ok. I checked intake air temperature and seems to be ok and engine coolant temperature but not sure if ok. the resistance vary between 1600 to 3200 (IAT + ECT when cold) and 200 to 300 ECT when engine hot at 68F. I also checked my mass air flow sensor and it said .260 volt at idle and .235 at 3000 rpm. the specs mentionned .7 to 1.1 volt idle and 1.3 to 2.0 at 3000 rpm. maybe I did something wrong? positive lead on terminal 1 and negative to ground. someone to help please, thanks

Response From michael6390 Top Rated Answer

ignition coil primary windings 1.1 ohm (terminal 3-2 and 3-1) not in the range at 68F ???
secondary windings 1-4 is 11.84 Kohms and 3-2 is 12.36 Kohms

Empty tank makes water?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Empty tank makes water?

Ok, I admit it, I am a chick and have no idea what I am doing. Last night my car got down to empty right before I filled it up at mobile. (2000 Hyundai Elantra) I filled it to half full but the past few days in chicago it has been below freezing. This morning i did not warm up my car before driving it and it started sputtering and it was difficult to accelerate. Then the check engine light came on. My father tells me to put HEET in the tank because there is water in the tank, is this right or should i go to a mechanic right away before i just kick my car inbetween the tailpipe if you know what i mean? THANK YOU!!!

Response From way2old

All three are in order. Putting the Heet in tank is good to disperse the water. Go to a mechanic or auto parts house (Autozone, Pep Boys read the code for free) and post the EXACT code number that is read from the computer. ANd you can kick the car anywhere that makes you feel better. Just dont hurt your foot in the cold.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Thank you so much, i took my car to the hyundai dealership and for a total of 250.00 they replaced my spark plugs and spark plug wires. Thank you so much for your help!! Aso they tod me that since i am at 69,000 miles i need my timing belt changed? is this a scam or real? they said nothing is wrong, they just recommend it. Thank so much!!

Response From evilnike

Every major dealership suggests replacing a timing chain after 50k miles. I haven't met a dealer mechanic that doesn't swear by regular changes at their shop. Its usually a little bit of bull. Most vehicles, if properly maintained, wont need a timing chain replaced for at least 100-125k miles. Then they just get old and wear out completely. If you're scheduling those changes, you're spending alot of money on something that doesn't necassarily have to happen.

BTW... you spent 250 bux on a tune-up ! Wow. Next time ( I hate saying this ) hit wal mart or something. They're usually ALOT cheaper than that. Or get a boyfriend or something to do it for cost of parts ( about fifty bux. )

Response From sladedl

make sure if you have a timing belt and not a chain. a timing belt does need to be replaced about every 75,000 miles. You can go longer but you run the risk of the belt breaking and causing severe engine damage. You probably don't have a timing chain because chains on that late of a model car do not ever have to be changed. if you want to find out if you have a belt or chain just call your local parts store and give them your make and model of your car and ask them. they will look it up for free. when a timing belt is changed make sure they are changing all your belts at the same time. you probably have a serpentine belt also that needs to be changed. hope this helps....

97 rlantra wagon overheated, now wont start

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From andrewvnhr on 97 rlantra wagon overheated, now wont start

Any help, especially troubleshooting, would be great. I have a 1997 Hyundai elantra wagon with a 1.8l 4 cylinder dohc 168k miles, and it overheated on me before I noticed the gauge was high. Saw steam, but very little coolant actually leaked. Pulled off and allowed it to cool, added coolant (less than a quart) and now it won't start. I checked to see if there was a spark from the wire to the plug, as I was told if there wasnt it is probably the timing belt, but I did see a spark as I tried to turn it over. It cranks but doesn't fire. I don't really know where to start troubleshooting, because I can't get the engine to turn over to get a better idea of the symptoms. Any info or insight will help! Thanks!
Andy

Response From Hammer Time

You have probably done some serious engine damage. First step is to remove all the spark plugs and do a compression test.

Response From andrewvnhr

Can you do a compression test on a car that won't run?

Response From Discretesignals

Yes you can.

Watch this vid:


Response From andrewvnhr

Awesome. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks guys!

Response From andrewvnhr Top Rated Answer

Hey, so I was removing the spark plug wires, and the end of the wire that connects to the plug broke off, still attached to the plug, which is in its original position above the cylinder. Any thoughts?
To be more specific, it is the plug cap that broke, above the nut of the spark plug. The ceramic head of the spark plug cap broke, and I can't get it out. Any suggestions?

Response From andrewvnhr

Ran the compression checks on the 2 cylinders I could get at, they are nos. 1 and 4, and got 30 on the dry check for both and 40 and 45 on the wet. Headgasket? Any other possibilities?

Response From Hammer Time

Definitely a problem of some type. It doesn't do any good to take half a compression test though.

Response From andrewvnhr

Ok, so I got the broken plug caps out, ran the test on the all 4 cylinders, with no. 1 at 30 dry and 40 wet, nos. 2 and 3 coming up under 10 both wet and dry, and no. 1 at 35 dry and 45 wet. Is there any other possibility than a headgasket? I have yet to check the thermostat to see if that was the original problem, could this also be related to a timing belt? Any other possibilities?
Thanks for all the help!

Response From Hammer Time

Wow, every cylinder is gone? Unless that engine broke a timing belt that nobody is aware of, it's just wasted. If that happened from temperature, there is some real damage.

Response From andrewvnhr

I don't think overheating did all that, it was only overheating for maybe 30 seconds before I pulled off and the engine shut down. I'm thinking the person who eliminated the timing belt may have been mistaken. Out of curiosity, what should the compression pressure be? I tried looking it up and couldn't find anything definitive. I've heard people say anything from 50 to 200 psi, but I really have no idea what is accurate for my vehicle. Second question, at this point, should I just replace the engine? I mean, if I have to do a headgasket and a timing belt, wouldn't it be just as easy (time and $) to just replace it? Thanks again!

Response From Hammer Time

It requires a minimum of about 100 PSI to even run so that means you have 4 dead cylinders. Head gaskets usually take out one or two but not all at once. A timing belt would do that but it would also bend all the valves in the process so that is not good news either. Even a head gasket can ruin the head and block also so that would likely be terminal to that car also.

Response From andrewvnhr

good to know on the psi. Ok, so basically regardless of which problem it is, I basically have the options of replacing the engine or scrapping it, right? and with how damaged this one seems to be, repairing this one is probably a waste of time?

Response From Hammer Time

We are assuming a lot of facts, not verified yet but that is likely correct.

Response From andrewvnhr

Ok, so with engines being a little beyond my experience, what else can I do as far as verification before I bite the bullet?

Response From Hammer Time

Take it to a reputable shop and have it diagnosed.

Response From andrewvnhr

Ok, sounds good. I had a feeling I had reached the end of my abilities, so that just confirms it for me. I appreciate all the help!

Response From Hammer Time

Of course. Part of the test is to disable the engine to prevent it from starting during the test.

Response From Discretesignals

You should do a compression test to see if the rings are shot or you have some type of mechanical problem as a result of the overheating.

2001 Hyundai Tiberon - Unsolvable Random misfire codes - help!!!

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mkmuch on 2001 Hyundai Tiberon - Unsolvable Random misfire codes - help!!!

2001 Hyundai Tiberon A/T - Random Misfire codes and I believe we have tried nearly everything. Car throws P0300 all the time between 40-60 mph, Throws P0301, 0304 nearly as many times at the same speeds, and once in a while will throw p0302. The vehicle has 75K miles on it and runs well - no noticeable misfire problem, however, some have said it feels under-powered. Here is what's been done, looked at and verified its correct or working. (Not necessarily in this order). My question is what else could it be and how can we test it?

Crank trigger replaced (2 times - 1 of the replacements was bad)
Compression checked out within spec
No intake vacuum leaks - all vacuum specs within factory tolerance
Brand new coil
New spark plug wires
New Iridium spark plugs
Mass air flow sensor verified to be functioning within spec
Timing belt (double verified when replaced to be properly installed on cam and crank marks).
Both o2 sensors within spec and functioning - one was replaced because it was a bit off.

Basically, we have gone through the typical and Atypical issues that can cause these codes. Neither my nor my mechanics equipment is sensitive enough to detect why this code continues to be thrown?

Our last thought is it's the ECU "brain Box" and it's malfunctioning? We have not tried a different ECU.

Open to ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just two thoughts for now on this:


Was crank sensor bad or possible to be installed improperly? It's just bad parts if lots has been done hard to trust new from that source or maker?


Plugs: Some vehicles are very fussy about OE only plugs. IDK the exact ones right now but only use those. No magic - the ones it was originally designed for with no tricky claims of anything.


At the MPH you notice this is also where a torque converter will lock up depending on load on engine. That alone is a quick load on engine being a higher gear ratio still at some RPM and a spot spark is really needed to be accurate. Just know it's harder for a plug to make a good spark while under higher compression for times it is than plain idle - wrong plugs not usually that dramatic but should be right ones only when things aren't working properly don't add that to the list of possible reasons,


T

Too much power too soon

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From MDWhite on Too much power too soon

2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC. Has way too much power for accelerator position. Make it difficult to drive in traffic. (has 5-sp. man) Check Engine light not on, no computer codes. Just did a little experiment on hwy. -- cruising at steady 60mph, pedal down abt 10%, increase to 20% and held it. Got up to 85mph and was still accelerating slowly when I backed off. Something must be opening the throttle besides my right foot it seems to me. What could be doing this ??

Response From Discretesignals

Probably would be a good idea to have your mechanic take it for a ride to see exactly what your concern is.

Make sure that your floor mat isn't making contact with your accelerator pedal.

This throttle body is cable operated, so inspect the cables for damage or fraying. Make sure the throttle opens and closes without binding. A dirty throttle bore or sticking plate can cause jack rabbit starts. You could clean the throttle and bore with a tooth brush and cleaner to see if that helps out.

Response From MDWhite

Thank you for your response. No, nothing sticking (that would likely cause idle problems) but your comments got me looking at that area and I found the throttle cable adjusting/lock nuts very loose. Got these this adjusted and properly tightened and that helped a lot. Still think the engine is out of spec though -- probably some clown has toyed with the computer at some point (I just bought this used). How would I determine if this is the case ?? I don't know much about these things, but have heard many cars, even an economy car like this have available aftermarket computer mods. I would like to get thisw back to stock.

Response From Discretesignals

Not sure what you mean by clowning with the computer. If for some reason they were able to alter the software in the computer, they would have either have flashed the EEPROM with some sort of modified calibration or would have piggy backed some sort of performance chip. I highly doubt it, but the only way you would be able to tell is by inspecting the PCM harness and looking for a piggy back or connecting up a high end scan tool and looking at the calibration number of the software flashed into the PCM.

Just curious, but have you had your mechanic take it for a spin?

Response From MDWhite

I believe there is a whole industry devoted to doing just those kinds of things with car computers, actually. But still seems like something else is controlling the throttle at times of acceleration. There is no way this is as stock. If that were the case very very few of them would have ever sold. I pretty much have full power at 1/3 accelerator. It ramps up very very quickly above abt 2000 rpm (or less) starting at abt 20% pedal. Makes it very hard to modulate precisely, esp. when dropping the clutch. Have driven over 1.5 million miles in man. trans cars so know what to expect.

Response From Discretesignals

Curious, but if you hold the accelerator pedal at 1/3 what is the position of the throttle blade?

You could loosen the throttle cable nut and then have someone hold the pedal to the floor. Then adjust the cable nut till the throttle blade just touches the wide open throttle position . That would probably set the cable correctly.

Response From MDWhite

I opened up the intake there to see if everything was OK and it seems to be. Interestingly there is a passage that bypasses the throttle valve that apparently is there for idle. If it is blocked the engine quickly dies, though it seems much wider (abt 1/2 in diameter) than I think would be needed to support idle. Someone suggested a throttle position sensor might be at fault here, I might try that. I should say that the engine does vary somewhat in its behavior (both when dropping the clutch and in general) in that it does not ramp up in power so wildly as I described and acts more normally with a gradual progression of power, though most of the time it is the former.

Response From Discretesignals

You could have a TPS issue, but a faulty TPS would cause hesitation, stumbling, and possible idle issues. You can sweep the TPS with a volt meter or lab scope to see if it has any dead spots. Not a common failure item.

Response From MDWhite

Have two new things to report. First, I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected a bunch of engine sensors (though none seemed particularly dirty or corroded) with engine off. Upon starting and running, I noticed a difference right away. It was much more driveable than before, though still not quite right. Just now the crazy power ramp-up happened a bit further down in the throttle, and was now probably a bit less rapid. Also picked up a good 2-3 mpg from this too. (I waited until I had gone through 3 tankfuls of gas to ascertain this. After the first subsequent fillup I thought the gauge must have been stuck.) But like I said still not really right. And then I went to change the sparkplugs recently I found my suspicions about the computer were correct. It has definitely been messed with. It is not firing the coils in stock order (and whoever put the wires on knew the right order to put them) I was lucky I noticed this before I got too far and lost this info. So this is where it stands now. Any further thoughts will be appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

So, you're saying that the firing order was wrong all along and that caused you to have too much power too soon?
Were the wires connected to the wrong coil or just the wrong pole on a single coil?

Response From MDWhite

No, of course not. It is because someone knew which coils (which are marked with the cylinder No.) went to which cylinders (now NOT the No. on the coil) that it wasn't (isn't) misfiring (in which case the car would have been inoperable). My point is the change in order is evidence of a computer reprogramming, which of course included many other modifications.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what you're smoking but you need to put the pipe down.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm confused. The firing order of that engine is going to be 1-3-4-2. That is built into the engine mechanically. Changing the software in the engine controller isn't going to change the mechanical design of the engine.

You can swap 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 plug wires, but you probably won't detect any difference in the running of the engine.

Not only does the spark have to occur in the correct firing order, but the valve timing and pistons' positions also determine the firing order in which combustion events occur:


Response From MDWhite

Maybe I am assuming too much here. I assume a coil is only fired when needed, based on the signal from the camshaft pos. sensor (as processed and routed by the computer and its programming). Maybe they fire twice per cycle ? I don't know. Tell me. If you did what you described with an older car with a distributor it would be practically undriveable (in fact people have seriously damaged engines by misrouting the HT wires).

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

On your system, which is called a waste spark, each coil is fired twice in 720 degrees of crank rotation. This means that each cylinder will get a spark while its piston is near top dead center on both the exhaust and compression strokes.

Cylinders that share the same ignition coil are called companion cylinders. That means when one cylinder is coming up on compression stroke its companion is coming up on the exhaust stroke.

The engine computer determines when to fire the coil based on crankshaft position and speed which is provided by the crank shaft position sensor. The computer will also modify the ignition timing based on throttle position, engine load, engine temperature, and etc.

Your right, having spark plug wires switched on distributor systems can cause misfires and melt catalysts, but the engine would perform so badly you'd be a fool to drive on something like that.

Response From MDWhite

Well I finally realized what is going on here. It is so obvious I don't know why I didn't see it sooner. The intake (the throttle valve I inspected before) is way too large for the engine size. Not any modification, just the way it was made. Overengineered idiocy (like firing spark plugs twice as often as needed). So they can claim say 5 HP more at like 5500 rpm or something (which I could drive the vehicle 100K mi and never use once) the low end is tough to control like it is, at least with the manual trans. Doesn't help that the car has some sort of a racing clutch in it either. I realized that in carbureted trim this engine (it is a descendent of the Mitsubishi 1600cc engine that debuted in the 1970 Dodge Colt) would like a 32x34 mm barrel arrangement with maybe half the cross sectional area this intake has. So of course when I have the pedal down about a third if the way the engine has nearly full power, at least at normal driving rpm's. Still I otherwise like the car, it has good performance and now in the warm weather driving it carefully I get abt 40mpg, which is what I got it for.

Response From Discretesignals

Unless the engine has been modified by someone, that throttle body and induction system is going to be designed to fit that engine by the manufacture. Maybe your trying to compare it to an old carbed engine that isn't as responsive.

Response From MDWhite

Yes, thanks for your reply. There is definitely some truth to that, but frankly I don't think it was just that much of a priority. What is it, 90% of cars are automatics now or something like that ? (at least in US). I just couldn't see how the engine was getting that much air, and now I know. Bear in mind this throttle, which is over 50mm in diameter, has TWICE the cross-sectional area of two 25mm chokes that the engine would typically be drawing through in carbed trim. It had been years since I held a carburetor in my hands and I kind of forgot what they were like. But the greatest difference between this engine and the older ones I mentioned is the 4V cylinder head this one has (I would count that as an even bigger difference than the fuel injection vs. carburetion) . They would be remiss if they didn't adapt induction in other ways to take advantage of this, I know. I would like to drive this in automatic trim, that would be really nice I think now (I would not have said that about an older small car). Thats what this is really designed for, I think. Though it wouldn't have been that hard to, say, have the throttle cable wrap on a cam instead of on a simple cylinder to give a variable opening rate in the manual trans cars. And at pedal down they would have the throttle open so they could get that final peak of power. Now I was told when I got the car that it had had a recent clutch replacement and I didn't have any trouble believing that. Very touchy, very grabby. I thought this would fade with use and it really hasn't. I should have mentioned that it is practically impossible to start the car on a hill without spinning the wheels some. I have a choice of either that or stalling the engine, basically. Otherwise I like the car, though I can't understand why on earth anyone would put power steering in such a small car; if I keep it I am going to look into putting in an older model's manual rack and get back that feel of the road I like.

Response From Hammer Time

That's ridiculous. You've been watching too many cartoons.