Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Spark Plug Wires

Choose a Year for your GMC 's Spark Plug Wires

  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1969
  • 1968
  • 1967
  • 1966
  • 1965
  • 1964
  • 1963
  • 1962
  • 1961
  • 1960
  • 1959
  • 1958
  • 1957
  • 1956
  • 1955
  • 1954
  • 1953
  • 1952
  • 1951
  • 1950
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Denso
    Denso
  • Prestolite
    Prestolite
  • Standard Wires
    Standard Wires

Best Selling Genuine Gmc Spark Plug Wires

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Denso, ACDelco, Delphi, Prestolite
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Gmc Replacement Spark Plug Wires Parts
Denso
1998 GMC Sonoma Spark Plug Wire Set Denso

P311-19900D4    W0133-1693605  New

Qty:
$21.54
Denso Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Denso
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - GMC Sonoma
ACDelco
1998 GMC Sonoma Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-5D5FCD1    W0133-1693605  New

Qty:
$32.46
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - GMC Sonoma
Delphi
1988 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-2B31F0C    W0133-1835443  New

Qty:
$47.73
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC C1500
Delphi
1988 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-2B31F0C    W0133-1835443  New

Qty:
$47.73
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • "K" Engine
Brand: Delphi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC C1500
Delphi
1988 GMC C2500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-2B31F0C    W0133-1835443  New

Qty:
$47.73
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • "H" Engine
Brand: Delphi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC C2500
Delphi
1994 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-4BF2BFD    W0133-1930700  New

Qty:
$38.34
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - GMC C1500
ACDelco
1994 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-31A83B4    W0133-1930700  New

Qty:
$49.61
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - GMC C1500
Delphi
1996 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-149B9E9    W0133-1952357  New

Qty:
$94.51
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - GMC C1500
ACDelco
1996 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-0FBD158    W0133-1952357  New

Qty:
$95.14
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - GMC C1500
Delphi
1983 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-539BB7B    W0133-1929763  New

Qty:
$53.27
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - GMC C1500
ACDelco
2001 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4FDC549    W0133-2077222  New

Qty:
$95.03
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 10.5" Lead
    (Melco Coil Ignition System)
  • - With Melco Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Sierra 2500 HD
Delphi
2001 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-4F8D719    W0133-2077222  New

Qty:
$81.98
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 10.5" Lead
    (Melco Coil Ignition System)
  • - With Melco Coil
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Sierra 2500 HD
ACDelco
2008 GMC Savana 2500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4FDC549    W0133-2077222  New

Qty:
$95.03
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Mitsubishi IgnitionUse Coils Stamped 12558693
  • - With Melco Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - GMC Savana 2500
Delphi
2008 GMC Savana 2500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-4F8D719    W0133-2077222  New

Qty:
$81.98
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Mitsubishi IgnitionUse Coils Stamped 12558693
  • - With Melco Coil
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - GMC Savana 2500
ACDelco
2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4BB7CBA    W0133-2082196  New

Qty:
$124.19
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Sierra 2500 HD
Denso
2008 GMC Savana 1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Denso

P311-0D1B140    W0133-2102981  New

Qty:
$47.85
Denso Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Denso
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - GMC Savana 1500
ACDelco
1999 GMC Sierra 1500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-2060B75    W0133-1836133  New

Qty:
$141.43
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - GMC Sierra 1500
Prestolite
1998 GMC Jimmy Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-4A861A1    W0133-1616621  New

Qty:
$46.34
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - GMC Jimmy
Prestolite
1994 GMC G3500 Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-4A861A1    W0133-1616621  New

Qty:
$46.34
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
  • "W" Engine
Brand: Prestolite
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - GMC G3500
Prestolite
1999 GMC C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-0F84BFA    W0133-1612948  New

Qty:
$67.69
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - GMC C1500

Latest Gmc Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Spark Plug Wires 2000 GMC 6.0 V8

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dennisbc21 on Spark Plug Wires 2000 GMC 6.0 V8

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd w/ 6.0 V8. I can't get the spark plug wires off of the plugs. They have a sheet metal heat sleeve around each boot. Do the shields come off with the boots? I can't get either to budge. Is there some sort of special tool or procedure for something so simple as to remove the spark plugs?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

You can use spark plug wire boot pliers. They are long handled pliers with half round jaws designed to grab the plug wire boots. They work well on these metal shields. You will have to twist as you pull to remove them. Make sure you reinstall them when you replace the wires.

Steve

Cylinder#5 misfire

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From DM_climber on Cylinder#5 misfire

97 GMC sierra 4x4 Truck, I have a cylinder # 5 misfire according to the code reader. I have replaced spark plugs,wires,distr cap and roter. I can not figure out what to do next.

Response From DanD

Considering that you’ve replaced ignition components, we’ll assume (not the best thing to do) that the misfire is not ignition related.
Before doing anything else, confirm that this cylinder has compression; without compression nothing externally will get that cylinder running.
Next would be fuel control; this engine is likely using Central Sequential Port Injection (CSI)
CSI systems use a single electric fuel metering valve that is opened and closed by the computer and is common to all cylinders. So we know that it is working because we’re only dealing with #5.
Leaving the metering valve are 8 individual tubes with poppet valves/nozzles at the end of each tube; one poppet valve per cylinder. The poppet valves are a form of mechanical injector; fuel pressure is applied to the base of the valve’s nozzle to open it and spray fuel. Once the valve/nozzle is opened the fuel pressure in the tube drops and the valve closes with spring pressure.
These poppet valves are famous for sticking.
If this is the case with your misfire; you can attempt having them professionally cleaned. Don’t waste your money with the pour in the tank cleaners; if this is a stuck/dirty poppet it’s to late for that stuff. They need a very aggressive cleaner if it’s going to work at all.
Again if this is the issue and cleaning didn’t work; there is an up dated retro fit CSI unit that does away with the mechanical poppet valves and uses 8 electric injectors. No modifications are needed to install this unit; it’s plug and play; but it’s not cheap to buy.

Dan.

Sorry HT I wouldn’t have replied to this thread if I saw that you already had. Don’t take offence please.

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

No offense taken......

I was however under the impression that this was an SFI (sequential) injection system with individually controlled and serviceable injectors that could still cause a miss on #5 only and can be replaced independently.

These images are from the 5.7 but the 4.3 is the same

Response From DanD

I agree with all that you have said about both types of fuel control systems and yes the poppet nozzles can be replaced individually but in my pass experience with these things; it’s a make work project, just replacing one; let alone one of the same design.
If one has become plugged/stuck, the others are close behind; they’ve all seen the same heat soaks and dirt.
So if after having the CSI unit assembly cleaned and #5 is still not operating; I would suggest the up-dated unit.
Again assuming that this is the cause of the problem and that the vehicle hasn’t already had the up-date done?

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

I'll agree on those points. My intention was for diagnostic purposes to verify that the injector is actually the problem.

Response From DM_climber

Ok guys I really appreciate the help! I messed up by not including the size of the motor. Its the 5.7 vortec, and no it dosent have individual injectors, so popet valves are on the board to replace. I am also wondering if a cleaner like "sea foam" might be worth a try? it is a rather aggressive cleaner, or will i be waisting my time? I am not oposed to up dating to the new style so I will look into that. But I guess I am clueless as to what is involved or where to get it. Any suggestions?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, you do have individual injectors. They are just all contained in a central unit but they are individual. Forget the cleaner. It won't do a thing.

Response From DM_climber Top Rated Answer

I understand about the idividual injectors I was thinking in terms of a fuel rails and each injector. How hard is it to pull it out and clean it? The other question I have is the cylinder numbers,in terms of the cpu numbering the cylinders and the print out for the firing order are they the same? in one book the cylinders are counted down one side and up the other, on the firing order they are alternated accross the block. which is correct?

Response From Hammer Time

No, you can't manually clean these injectors. They are not even accessible without removing the upper manifold and then they are a sealed unit. As I stated earlier, the way this is diagnosed is by doing an injector balance test using a professional scan tool and a fuel pressure gauge. Once you identify that it is actually an injector causing the problem, then you make the decision to change that one or all of them. As the discussion with the other tech noted, it is recommended to replace all of them at once although it would be quite expensive.

The only attempt you could possibly make at cleaning them would be using a pressure system with professional cleaner but I can tell you from experience, this rarely works on this type of injector and would set you back about $150.

Response From Hammer Time

The next most likely suspect would be an injector. You would need a bidirectional scan tool and a fuel pressure gauge to perform an injector balance test

94 gmc s 15 jimmy skips when hot

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From dixon on 94 gmc s 15 jimmy skips when hot

1994 Gmc Jimmy

4.3 V6 w/CPI (vin W)

150000 miles
Compression : all 6 around 150psi (all within 5 psi of each other)
Hello there. About 1 month ago i replaced the head gaskets due to loss of compression in 2 cylinders side by side, the engine would lope at idle and stall out at stop lights, etc. Everything went smoothly BUT after test driving it a few time it developed a ?skip?. When the engine is cold it funs perfect but as soon as it gets to normal operating temp say about a mile up the road it starts skiping pretty bad, it uses alot of gas, never stalls out, the more gas i give it the more it skips.

At cruising speeds it sometimes does OK and sometimes continues to skip, at idel it skips.

This i have replaced and/or checked..

Distributor and rotor (new)
Timing with gray black wire disconected
Spark plugs gaped at .o45 (new)
spark plug wires (new)
Fuel filter (new)
Injectors (cleaned)
Coil (new)
Vacume lines (some replaced)
Pcv (new)

Possibiltys:
When installing the distributor with #1 at TDC, the rotor landed at say... 7-8 o'clock. the clymer manual i used showed about 4-5 o'clock. could this be causeing a problem?

I AM VERY CLOSE TO SETTING THIS THING ON FIRE. PLEASE HELP!

Response From re-tired

First thing that comes to mind ..did you have head checked for warpage by machine shop. Second thing ,,, it makes no difference what clock position the rotor ends up. So long as the cap post it ends up pointing at has the #1 plug wire on it with the remaining wires put on in the firing order in direction of rotation . Also , wires must be able to move enough to set timing and dist turn without interference to set timing as well.

Response From dixon

i checked head with feeler guage and it was all within tolerance.
so i can drop the distributor down wherever?
or i need to drop it in so that it sits ON the peg marked (1)? or just before it?
Thank you

Response From steve01832

Another consideration is the fuel injector on this vehicle. It is prone to having the poppet valves go south. If you are using excessive fuel, sometimes black smoke present, you may want to put a fuel pressure guage on this.
A sure way to know if the injector is bad is turn key on engine off. Fuel pressure guage will be in range of 60 psi. Then if the guage drops way down quickly followed by an extended crank time, the injector is bad. I have replaced many injectors on 4.3 liter engines and there are plenty of TSB's on them.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>prone to having the poppet valves go south<<
Probably depends whether you are a yank or a rebel....Here, in WA, the poppet valves go north.

Response From steve01832

Where, to Canada?

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes, Canada....We send them to Dan.

Response From dixon

thankyou for the distributor instructions, that is exactly what ive done. as far as the poppet issue. there is a pressure fitting at the back of the plunium or whatever its called. do i hook up there? and would this cause to engine to run good cold but not hot? im thinking the timing is advanced when warming up so it will burn the extra fuel??? not to sure. please educate me.

Thanks to all

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

dixon; The others addressed the fuel issue. I'll concentrate on the distributor. The way that I've always done it. Remove #1 spark plug. Disconnect coil so engine can't start. Have a helper 'bump' the engine over while you hold a finger to the #1 cylinder hole. Once you feel a 'push' of compression, stop. By hand, rotate the engine until the timing mark points to TDC. That will be top dead center on the compression stroke. Identify #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. Remove the cap and be certain that the rotor is pointing directly at where you determined #1 spark plug wire to be. If not right, remove the distributor and turn the rotor so that when the distributor drops into place and is fully seated, the rotor is still where it should be. You may not hit it 'right' the first couple of tries. You may have to drop it in, what seems like, a tooth too soon, as it will want to turn as it seats all of the way. Once you are sure you are right, turn the engine over a few times and then bring it up on TDC (compression stroke) and recheck.

spark plugs?

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From reid37 on spark plugs?

hi, my first post. I purchased some new spark plugs I'd been hearing about, guess what! couldn't find any old plugs. now I know I don't have a diesel, couldn't see anything. what I have is a 2007 gmc caynon. 2.9 lt. automatic. raised vec up, I crawled underneath. nothing. where do you suppose they put those plugs. called the dealer, bring them in & we'll install them, but cant give out that info! anyone got any ideas. thanks. reid

Response From reid37

fueled up again. normal mpg, 16. starting millage, 16211. fillup millage, 16473.

Response From reid37

sorry, 11.48 gallons. that might help

Response From way2old

I had a 2006 Colorado with the 5 cylinder and I got 22 mpg average. Pulling a 19 foot boat I got 16.

Response From reid37

mine gets 21 without the a/c, 16 with a/c running. i'm not trying to sell plugs, just thought it was interesting. bye.

Response From reid37

hi, well the plugs i installed are bosch platium 4, my gas milage increased by 9 miles a gallon, i was hopeing for more, maybe after a/c season is over. thanks for the input. reid

Response From Tom Greenleaf


hi, well the plugs i installed are bosch platium 4, my gas milage increased by 9 miles a gallon, i was hopeing for more,



Not a snowballs chance! Hit back when you check mpg again. Do you think for a nano second that a major car company wouldn't be doing that if that was even helpful let alone that kind on increase?

T

Response From reid37

wii do

Response From DanD

Response From reid37

thanks dand, its what i needed to know, the reason for the change is that bosch makes a spark plug called Fusion, thought i'd give them a try. thanks again, i"ll let you know how thry do.

Response From way2old

Stay with AC Delco. In about 10k miles you will see why.

Response From reid37

appreciate the input, but i gotta see for myself. eitherway, good, bad or no differance I will post the results on this page.

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

they are threaded into the cylinder heads. follow the spark plug wires.

Response From reid37

thanks for the quick reply, there are no wires showing, no distributer cap, no coil.

Response From Double J

This probably has COP ignition...
(C)oil (O)ver (P)lug
Each cylinder has its own coil.
Remove each coil and the plug should be underneath


Jim

Response From way2old

What kind of plug did you buy? If it is one of the "gimmick" plugs, return them and get your money back. I am a firm believer in OEM plugs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? Why are you replacing this type of plugs in a one year old vehicle? Don't those claim they are good for 100k from new?

T

1992 GMC TrailMaster Revs, Idles and then will die

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From megan22013 on 1992 GMC TrailMaster Revs, Idles and then will die

This truck is a 1992 GMC TrailMaster. It has about 53,600 miles. My mom went to sell the truck and it was running perfectly. After someone took it for a test, it now turns on but the engine will rev. There is an odd sound when the engine revs. We have taken it to a mechanic but since it is a 1992 he did not have the capability of hooking it up to see what codes come on. It had to be towed because after trying to drive it not even a mile, it died. The truck has the original engine, the check engine light does not come on and the mechanic who looked at it believes there is nothing wrong with the engine itself. I'm wondering what could cause the truck to sound like this so suddenly, when it had been driving perfectly fine. I have a video of what it looks and sounds like under the hood that I won't post. If someone would like to see it to get a better understanding, I can email it to you. Thank you.

Response From Discretesignals

Never heard of a TrailMaster.

Is this a truck, van, suburban?
Which series?
Which engine?
Which transmission?
2wd or 4wd?

If you want to post a link to your video, you can do that here.

Response From megan22013

It's a GMC Sierra C1500. I believe it's a 5.0 Liter V8 engine. It's a 1/2 ton truck. Here is a link to the video:


Response From megan22013

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Your mechanic can get codes with a paper clip on this and count blinks of check engine light - he/she just doesn't know that as it's quite old now.

The pre OBD2 codes you still had to take with a grain of salt as some clue if anything at all.

My real question is if this was running perfectly before this test drive did anyone go along with it to see how it was treated or if potential buyer really abused it in a test run? Stuff can happen anytime for no particular reason of course. It can also be a bit scary selling your own vehicle (privately) to strangers really for many folks,

T

Response From megan22013

My mom did not go along, so we do not know if the person who drove the truck did anything to it.

The mechanic said the vacuum hoses are all okay. The fuel filter is new. The wires look okay and the check engine light does NOT come on. The engine looks fine but it revs as shown in the link. Also, if you put it in drive, the truck dies.

Does anyone have any other ideas? My mom is trying to sell the truck so I can go to a specific college program. We really need to try and figure something out. The truck wasn't driven after the potential buyer drove. It was only driven the same day we found the problem, to the mechanic.

Please help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can only guess at this. Perhaps a super low mile now old truck was driven hard for the first time in ages and blew some carbon or junk in items like idle air speed control which dictates idle speed and really floored it which it should have taken. Junk could have fouled up plain spark plugs - one or more?

The noise is probably some belt driven something. A tech right there would find that if only taking belt off to see if that goes away and spin pulleys without the belt.

I'm not there or here to blame any mechanic or shop but doesn't seem this got looked at very hard OR is perhaps too old a vehicle for some. Just saying can't read codes and looking at vacuum hoses saying they are good isn't enough for me.

Seems like neither you or your Mom are going to do the work and think another tech or shop is in order. I suggest simply explaining what it's doing to the tech not just a service manager who will look at it and allow his/her discretion on what it might need. Possibly just a good throttle body clean out and maybe new plugs. What none of us know is if the potential buyers did anything messing with things underhood not knowing what they were doing?

Unless this truck is rusted badly beyond reasonable repair it should be worth fixing and an easy sell. I've looked, new stuff is outrageously expensive and plenty of people want a truck for its utility not it's good looks

T

Response From MarineGrunt Top Rated Answer

Like Tom said, take it to another shop. Was it an actual shop or a mechanic friend looking at it? Did the mechanic just give up on it? Any competent mechanic isn't going to give up and would be able to figure it out.

When's the last time it had a tune up? I doubt this happened but who knows. Seems odd how it ran fine and then didn't the second someone took it for a test drive. Maybe the guy that took it for a test drive unplugged a spark plug wire or something trying to get a deal on it? Did he make a cheaper offer afterwards? Be sure to check both ends of the spark plug wires to make sure they're seated properly. Check electrical connectors, hoses, etc. too.

Response From megan22013

Myself nor my mom are capable of doing the work. If it was something I could fix, I would try that but I don't have any car skills besides installing a battery, and checking fluids.

It was a mechanic, who is also a family friend. We did take it to the shop he works at. It wasn't a service manager but an actual mechanic who we talked to. He just seemed very puzzled as to why it revs like that. My mom is nervous about having to pay to tow it to another shop and possibly being overcharged. She doesn't know of any reliable shops in our area. My father and grandfather have both passed and she doesn't know about cars and is afraid of being taken advantage of. I believe she was already taken on a ride with the potential buyer.

The offer was lower and she decided not to accept it.

Thank you for the replies. I will tell her what you all said and hopefully she can get a second opinion. I'll also tell the mechanic who has been looking at it too check the things mentioned.

Response From HT

You really need to find a reliable shop that you can stick with. Ask around for some "word of mouth" references. Don't look for the cheapest one, look for the one that does the best work and treats it's customers the best. Stay away from the chain store type things. They never work out well.

Response From megan22013

Thanks everyone for your input. We had another mechanic look at it and he told us the vacuum advanced module needs to be replaced. That's what's causing the truck to rev then die if you try to drive it.

Everyone was very helpful in figuring out what was going on.

Response From HT

I hope he knows what he's doing because there is no such component by that name. Maybe he meant Ignition Control module.

Response From nickwarner

Some things get lost in translation from tech to customer to us. Hope it is good now.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Inspect all the vacuum hoses.