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1998 Chevrolet Metro Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

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1998 - Chevrolet Metro
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1999 Chevrolet Metro Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

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1999 - Chevrolet Metro
Bosch
1987 Chevrolet Beretta Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

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1987 - Chevrolet Beretta
Bosch
1992 Chevrolet Lumina APV Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

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1992 - Chevrolet Lumina APV
Prestolite
1995 Chevrolet Camaro Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-014C2DC    New

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1995 - Chevrolet Camaro
Prestolite
2000 Chevrolet Impala Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-10A1C71    New

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Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
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2000 - Chevrolet Impala
Prestolite
1998 Chevrolet Blazer Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-4A861A1    New

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Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
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1998 - Chevrolet Blazer
Prestolite
1999 Chevrolet C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-0F84BFA    New

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Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
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1999 - Chevrolet C1500
Delphi
1992 Chevrolet C1500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-3AD22A5    New

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Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
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1992 - Chevrolet C1500
ACDelco
1993 Chevrolet Camaro Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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1993 - Chevrolet Camaro
ACDelco
1994 Chevrolet Camaro Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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1994 - Chevrolet Camaro
Denso
2001 Chevrolet S10 Spark Plug Wire Set Denso

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Denso Spark Plug Wire Set
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2001 - Chevrolet S10
ACDelco
2001 Chevrolet S10 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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2002 Chevrolet Express 2500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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2002 - Chevrolet Express 2500
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2002 Chevrolet Express 2500 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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2002 - Chevrolet Express 2500
Delphi
2002 Chevrolet Express 2500 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

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Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
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2002 - Chevrolet Express 2500
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Venture Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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ACDelco
2001 Chevrolet Impala Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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2001 - Chevrolet Impala
ACDelco
2010 Chevrolet Impala Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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2010 - Chevrolet Impala
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2011 Chevrolet Impala Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

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2011 - Chevrolet Impala

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1989 chevy caprice that quit working

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jane21 on 1989 chevy caprice that quit working

My car was running fine earlier today, I came home turned car off for about 30 minutes and when i went to start it again all it would do is turn over but not fire. Theres about a half a tank of gas in it. Can anyone help me?
Thanks, Jane

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Need to know if it is missing spark or fuel. From your other posts, I suspect you feel it is fuel related. If you have some carburetor cleaner, take off the air breather and spray it in the engine. If car starts, lack of fuel is problem. If it still does not start, remove a spark plug wire and place it close to metal where it will stay put and check for spark. Chevrolets of that era were also bad about burning a hole in the rotor inside the distributor. Let us know what you find.

1996 Cavlier barely starts and dies in reverse.

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From Guest on 1996 Cavlier barely starts and dies in reverse.

1996
Chevrolet
Cavalier
Over 150,000 miles.

Alright, I hate this car, but it was free and my only transportation.

Recently a spark plug blew out of the first port under the hood, tearing the tip of the spark plug wire.

I bought a new plug and gapped it to .60 like it's supposed to be and bought a new set of wires and installed them.

My car barely starts now, and that's if it will even start at all.

When it does start, it runs horribly an idles rough.

Now, when I switch it to reverse, it instantly dies without a moments notice.

I haven't had a chance to test it in drive since replacing the wires, but I was able to limp it home after replacing the spark plug and leaving on the broken wire.

But as I limped it home, it died on every turn I made and I barely got into my parking spot.

I'm 20 and I don't know enough about cars to help myself unfortunately, but I am willing to learn.

I barely make any money and I'm on my own and this P.O.S. is my only way to work.

So any help at all is appreciated.

Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

It sounds like you may have messed up the firing order of the wires. Give me the engine size and I'll get you the firing order.

Response From Guest

2,190 cc 2.2 liters 4 in-line front transverse engine with 89 mm bore, 88 mm stroke, 9 compression ratio, cast iron block, light alloy head, overhead valve and two valves per cylinder

That's what I found out about it.

And I was wrong on the year of the car, it's actually a 98.

Response From Hammer Time

That still leaves 2 different engines
This is the single overhead cam
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
2.2 liter L4 VIN "4"




This is the double overhead cam




1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
2.2 liter DOHC L4 VIN "T"

Response From Guest

Thanks.

In the first diagram, is the top picture of the two sections, one with 4 and 1 and the other with 3 and 2, a picture of where the wires go into the engine? As in, the opposite of where they meet the spark plug?

When I plugged in the new wires, I put 1 on the bottom and went up with each one. So it ended up being 1 on the bottom, 2, 3, and then 4 at the top.

Is this the problem?

Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, that would definitely be wrong. The cylinders are numbered from the front of the engine to the back as 1,2,3,4. They need to coincide with the numbers on the coil to be in the right order. The top coil is for cylinders #1,4 and the other coil is for 2 and 3. They can't be mixed up.

Distributor / misfire/hesitation issues

Showing 2 out of 29 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From robster on Distributor / misfire/hesitation issues




Year of vehicle
Make of vehicle (Ford/ Chevrolet)
Model of vehicle ( Taurus/ Cavalier)
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7)
Mileage/Kilometers

1977
Leyland Mini Cooper
Classic Mini
1100 cc
4,610 miles on the odo

Hello to the Administrators, moderators and all the members, im very honored to be a member of this Forum.

I bought a 1977 Classic Mini, it has a 110cc engine, it rans fine when i bought it, i rode it for 2 weeks then problems started.
Here's my Dilema: --in sequence of events

1) one morning i was driving my Mini, and suddenly i accidentaly hit the throttle abruptly on the first gear
2) then the car still ran for a bout 1/4 mile then it started to hesitate then died.
3) then i re-start ,and it started right up.
4) i still was able to drive the car for about 20 feet then it hesitated and died again
5) i open the hood and investigate the engine.
6) after some thorough investigation i noticed that one of the spark plug has intermettent spark
7) the engine always starts right,revs fine but after a minute of rev the engine starts to hesitate(ts the time when the plug stops sparking)
8) it's always the no.1 spark plug that shows intermettent spark (it's the right most chamber)
9) i tested the integrity of the spark plug wire,i used ohm meter and it turn out that the wire works good/ i even switched wires but still there's an intermettent on that particular distributor port (which is the n0.1)
10)i investigated the distributor cap element, seems ok, i even sand paper the element but still intermettent spark on the no.1 occurs
11)Coil seems to be working ok
12)i replaced the spark plug with new one, and still intermittent spark occurs

please Help.....thank you




Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Most regulars are US based so near impossible for some designs even that could be universal. Need to know if this has a distributor with points or some kind of electronic or CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) or plain point with a condenser?


For now if a distributor with points see if you can find the point gap it's at now and turn engine so they are at their widest gap. Now look at that gap and push on shaft towards the points and see how much more it might move to open them which would be the same for any shaft driven distributor that some will get too much play side to side - total guess for now.


A dwell tach could be real handy and a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) and an in line spark tester but can do some checks without the dwell tach if points and plain feeler gauges.


If damp suddenly where you are this will aggravate anything weak in the secondaries (high voltage items) that might not if quite dry. A place to begin for now is about it,


T

Response From robster Top Rated Answer

yes, its an older engine , distributor has the points .
i did use the spark tester , it looks like a pen with little light bulbs on it, touch the tip to the spark plug wire while engine is running and it will lit up if there are electricity passing thru it... apparently that one particular wire (no.1) gives a spark at first then diminish after few minutes of idling.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Yes - I think I'm familiar with that type of tester that you do NOT take the wire off the plug and it still shows an amber light part way up the "pen" type tester. Those are marginal at best but if it continues to work on others and not #1 that's informative.


Then anything to do with #1 is questionable from inside distributor cap, wire itself most likely. If this engine allows swap that wire with one known to work and see if the problem follows along to another cylinder. If so could run much worse too as #1 spark plug could be fouled up pretty bad now too and only looking at them for even condition or tossing all (not yet IMO) would help but would rather nail it down as to why it's picking on spark to just that one first.


Should not be points yet but could be in cap, a flaw or unseen crack that can almost look like just a pencil has been used to draw a line showing or a white burnt area.


If this engine is good with good compression and other signs all good and you can prove lack of adequate spark to just #1 then do all that stuff new.


Another test is just spray/mist the cap and wires with water while idling while coolish and watch for arcing out of the part or wires. Good stuff should care. Don't soak it, just a mist about like you were cleaning a window in fact glass cleaner works for that test,


T

Response From robster

thanks Tom,

i switched the wires and still the #1 didnt work even with different wire,/ the spark plug is new/ i switched the spark plug too and still #1 gives intermettent spark.
until engine dies.

Points to consider: it all started when i abruptly stepped on the gas then suddenly the engine showed hesitation, NOW, is it safe to say that it might have moved the entire distributor stem(with the gear that goes inside the motor) which rendered the timing off?, the sudden step on the gas with the clutch engaged must have made the gear pushed the ignition thing or distributor thing a little that made the timing off....will that be possible?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Getting there slowly. OK - it seems to be surely picking on #1 as a misfire. How sure it's spark only is going to take more testing. Interesting that one event you mentioned seemed to cause this.


Just maybe engine moved too far on mounts (could be weak or bad too) such that distributor bumped something it really shouldn't be able to and did get a crack or flaw in it? Another maybe is this isn't spark at all but rather a vacuum leak that picks on that cylinder making it too lean or again with a compression problem and don't why that would happen because of just starting off too quickly on one like that but would have to check why just that cylinder and may just be coincidental to the abrubt "stepping on gas" as you put it?


T

Response From robster

just to verify: i mentioned about that pen like spark tester, and you said you are kind of familiar with it, my question is, when that pen gives out spark does it mean that:
1) that an electric current is passing through the wire?
2) that there is a spark on the spark plug itself?
IF the spark plug gets bad will i still be getting a light on the pen? ( the current still passes the wire right?)

point i am after: i just want to determine if the plug gets fouled, the pen stops lighting up,then the origin of the problem is from combustion chamber (i need to determine WHAT causes the fouling of plug.

IF the light on the pen stops,then the spark plug stops igniting it means the origin of the problem is in the distributor department.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Near sure I know the device you are using. Better is an in line spark tester that requires installing it in between plug wire and plug for example and lights well plus can widen gap to see how far it can jump but seems you know you have a dead cylinder and misfire due to lack of spark which for now points to the distributor as you've switched wires and plug - right? Problem didn't follow.


If individual fuel delivery for each cylinder you have to tell me and see if that is falling out and again being fooled on the spark somehow?


Plug would foul with very weak or no spark with fuel still being delivered so my guess is still a spark issue or compression issue yet to check that. A cylinder will NOT fire at all or well if too low. Testing can show pretty well why as well as comparing that spark plug to one with no issues. Oil wet, fuel wet, carboned up black, shorted, cracked, showing too hot and so on up to totally wrong gap or plug type forcing the spark to seek ground elsewhere as it has no brains just want to find ground the easiest way.


Hey - can't always be here in a timely manner but try. If you need and might hands on help which does cost might target this faster for you than a web sight Q&A type thing plus you get added equipment and hope to have some serious experience to nail it down fast for you as a big deal or not and I just can't say just yet,


T

Response From robster

here's how i did the test

http://videobam.com/kFKlJ

Response From Discretesignals

You sure that distributor cap is good?

Response From robster

hmmm wait a minute, can i possibly rotate the distributor cap to see if that particular port#1 is indeed bad??
i will also rorate the wires right??

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think you can rotate the cap on that one because it is keyed to the distributor. If you get the timing too far off, the engine won't run or backfire and blow the carburator off...LOL

Probably cheaper and easier to replace the cap. If the cap is black, seeing carbon tracking is even harder. You should also inspect the lobes on the distributor shaft that the points ride on. Could have a worn off lobe...never know.

Response From robster

im at the garage right now.. here the distributor that i have



Response From Discretesignals

Can't tell if your cap is tracked in your picture.

Checking lobes should be easy. With the ignition off rotate the engine by hand while watching the contacts on the points as they open. They should open four times, with the same length gap per opening, after rotating the crank two revolutions.

Response From robster

how do i rotate the engine?? should i rotatethe fan by hand?

Response From Discretesignals

Not sure if you can rotate it by the fan. There should be a large bolt in the middle of the crankshaft pulley that you can put a socket and ratchet onto. Just make sure the ignition is off. You could also remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft. That engine looks really simple to work on. Wish I was working on something like that at our shop instead of the modern computerized nightmares.

Response From Discretesignals

Oh...make sure you rotate the crankshaft clockwise only.

Response From robster

thanks ill do that.

and i noticed that the coil is very hot,, what does it mean??

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the ignition on too long with the points closed, the coil is going to be charging or turned on. The coil doesn't fire until it is turned off after it has charged. They call it saturation. The coils of wires on the primary side of the coil tend to get hot. The oil in the coil is supposed to keep things cool, but they still do get warm. It could also get hot from being bolted to the side of the engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back for a bit. Thanks HT and DS for pics and descriptions. Robster - electricity is seeking ground and doesn't care which route just the easiest. Things can look good to the eye and totally not be. DS showed a cap with clear markings, some aren't so clear and water as mentioned might bring out just where it's messed up.


Back I mentioned the wobble of the distributor shaft is what I meant hoping you could see it by hand or dwell meters show it. If somehow the spark inside cap has a larger jump to #1 it may pick the prior or next terminal or anywhere easier and you don't see that but can test for loose distributor as said back several posts.


Coil getting hot (saturation as DS said) suggests that spark is really struggling to find ground. Coil tower itself can have the flaw also and if distributor is off just might choose one cylinder to struggle with and show at coil tower or wire. Everything to do with high voltage items is suspect. We call those secondary items/parts, coil, coil wire, cap, rotor plug wires porcelain to spark plugs and the metal of the spark plug. A fouled plug might take the ground nicely but not fire or spark.


New parts or not can mess up or worse wrong types like all plugs not correct so brings out the weakest link. Better test equipment would help but strong clues can be had.


Keep at it. As said I can't be here all that much or fast especially for a couple days here so listen to the others or let a shop and tech with much more equipment and experience isolate the problem for you. The longer an engine misfires for any reason the more complex it will get too so it's not just saving some time and up front costs but costs down the road of things that didn't like it misfiring so long. Know when to get help or get more test equipment as or if available to you,


T

Response From robster

is this normal? does it have too much play ?
http://videobam.com/WUFMJ

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, that movement is normal. That's play in the 2 gears that mesh to drive it.
This may not be a spark problem at all. You probably want to monitor the fuel supply when this happens.

That spark test is not real accurate anyway. That cylinder may be losing spark or maybe it just has better insulation in the wire and the pen can't pick it up through the insulation.

Response From Discretesignals

HT has a point. That pen isn't going to tell you the kV voltage. It could be running on 2 kV and lighting that pen up. You should use a spark tester, preferably an adjustable one to see how far the spark is able to jump which is an indicator of coil health.

Response From robster

hi guys, my ignition coil is overheating, really hot. whats causing it? should i get a new one? the car starts but not reving, it hesitates when reving

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Time to check that ignition points are set properly, parts are to specification. I'm not going to have specifications for tune up anything for this but could get close with another British Leland's car with a 4 cylinder with this type of ignition system is about it.


Without much for tools some tell-tale signs are metal transfer at the points themselves. If one small point has a peak and the other a hole matching not intended hole that some might have that's an indication that condenser isn't matched to system but don't think that makes a coil hot alone but could result in excessive resistance for that coil? Most would quit running totally till those problems were solved so have to think on it and what you could do,


T

Response From robster

the thing that confuses me is that why does the car start fine then after few minutes, especially when i rev it, the engine starts to hesitate and when i touch the pen onto the no.1 wire, the light becomes intermettent and eventually diminish while the other 3 wires has consistent light on the pen.
then after few minutes, the car start right up again then hesitate. and so on.
i tried moving the distributor shaft counter clockwise and clockwise just to see if its just out of timing but still same problem occurs.
im thinking the over heating of the coil has something to do with the problem, it might be the cause or the result from another fault.

Response From robster

yah, there were no corrossion and i even run a ohm tester on it to see if there is a good continuity.

Response From Discretesignals

You might have good ohm between the terminal inside the cap to the outside terminal, but if you have a crack or carbon track the spark is going to find that before going through the plug's gap.

Here's an example of a cap that may ohm good, but spark has found ground to the distributor housing through that carbon track.


Response From Hammer Time

Here's what Tom is talking about


i need help with my 1981 chevrolet silverado w/ a 7.4 isn't cra

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ssdude on i need help with my 1981 chevrolet silverado w/ a 7.4 isn't cra

i have a 1981 chevy with a 454 and i think it might have a timing problem but can not figure it out. when you crank it over, it will crank a few times and then it will do a slower crank. i can turn it over all day and night but it still will not fire up.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I’m assuming you’ve checked the basics and know that there’s spark and the carb has fuel?
One way of checking if the timing chain has jumped; is to remove #1 spark plug. Bump the engine over until you feel compression building at #1 Spark plug hole. (stick finger in hole; but not to deep LOL) Now align the timing mark on the lower pulley with the zero mark on the timing marker index. Remove the distributor cap and see if the ignition rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder’s spark plug wire position on the cap as if the cap is installed.
I may look a few degrees off; but if the rotor is pointing any more then that away from #1 and if you did the set up properly, of putting the engine at #1 Top Dead Centre of the compression stroke; then the chain has likely jumped.

Dan.

Response From ssdude

I pulled the #1spark plug out and felt a rhythmic puff of air come out of the cylinder. I looked at the lower pulley and did not find any marks use for alignment. I bought a Chilton’s book and based on that information the marks are not located where the book states they should be located. Do you have suggestions on how I can set the timing without being able to locate the marks? Or set the timing without the marks?

Response From DanD

The timing marks should be in this area (blue circle); the lower pulley (Balancer) will have what looks like a saw cut across its width and the index will be on the timing cover. In the picture below the round hole in the index would be TDC or zero timing.



Without the timing marks; bump the engine until you feel the “puff or air”. Then insert a probe (screwdriver) into the spark plug hole as to feel the top of the piston. Now BY HAND rotate the engine slowly until you do not feel anymore upwards movement of the piston. When you begin turning the engine; in its normal direction of rotation and you feel the piston going down; you gone past TDC; start over again. There will be a few degrees worth of crankshaft rotation where the piston will stay still; before it begins to move downwards. Now gestimate the center of crankshaft rotation between piston (up &down) movement and that should be TDC.

Dan.

my truck

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From maxh on my truck

hello my truck is giving my minor problems.it is a 1989 chevrolet 350,5.7liter. now it runs perfect it can go real fast the only problem is when im in stop and go traffic or stop at a light it will idle down and die.i was told to put carb cleaner in carb, which i did.then was told to put fuel injection cleaner in gas which i did.then today it quit more than other times,and i had to wait 15 or 20 minutes before it would crank back up.then my neighbor told my it was the control module so i changed it out then it wouldnt start at all we waited little bit maybe 45 minutes then it started up and idled pefect ,shut off recranked it,then took it down the road when i pressed the gas it acted like carb. was not getting any gas please help me out.

Response From h.bonin

you might want to make sure that it is not vapor locking.try loosening the gas cap.

Response From maxh

the carb. is fuel injected with two jets things so could it still flood

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

max; This is, actually, fuel injected. No carburetor. The carburetor thing you see is actually a throttle body injection system. The two 'thingys' are fuel injectors. Yes, it can flood. If it is running too cool, the computer will see that and add fuel, since there is no choke on fuel injected engines. There are other reasons it can over-fuel as well.

Response From maxh

and if it is running to cool what can i do to fix it

Response From maxh

and another thing when it idles down and starts to die and sometimes does die the oil pressure drops showing on the gauge and pops back to normal is this anything to worry about?

Response From maxh

and also this truck has rebuilt egine and tranny it only has 10k miles on new motor this is a great truck just do not know how to fix this

Response From maxh

ok guys today i put a new fuel filter on and a new fuel relay switch and it still will not turn over and start it is getting spark,please help me!!!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

max; The temperature sounds fine. The oil pressure will drop as the engine idles down or, of course, dies. When you are cranking the engine, do you see the injectors squirting fuel? Do you have any way of retrieving trouble codes?
Pull out the dipstick and smell the oil. Does it smell like fuel? If it has been over-fueling, the oil could be contaminated with fuel which will also dillute it and affect lubrication. If so, it should be changed. Removing the PCV valve from the valve cover during testing may help. (leave the valve connected to the vacuum line). You may even want to pull a couple of spark plugs to see if they are wet with fuel. If they are, pull all of them and either clean them or replace them. If the injectors are over-fueling, you can disconnect the electrical connector to one of them and see if you can get it to start. Let us know how you progress. (be careful of a possible backfire through the throttle body if you have the air cleaner off while trying to start the engine).

Response From maxh

sorry to all im new to this truck lol thanks for imforming me please keep on and help me fix it . it runs 195 to 210 if the gauge is right.im going to put a fuel pump relay switch in it tommorrow and a new fuel filter and see if that helps

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Max; What temperature is the engine running at? These seem to have problems with running too cool, which will cause overfueling. Which, matches your symptoms. This should have a 192F or 195F thermostat, so the engine temp should be in the 195-210F range. The next time it doesn't start, check for spark at the spark plug wire. If you have spark, it's more than likely overfueling, causing a flooding condition.