802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Shocks

Choose a Year for your Subaru 's Shocks

  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Bilstein
    Bilstein
  • KYB
    KYB

Best Selling Genuine Subaru Shocks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Subaru Replacement Shocks Parts

We stock Shocks parts for most Subaru models, including BRZ, Brat, Forester, GL, Legacy, Outback.


Sorry, no results were found.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Ticking Subaru

Showing 10 out of 13 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From greasy one on Ticking Subaru

Hi noob here. I have 2 cars and I guess I am lucky that I have avoided a car forum, till now. By now, you prob. know that CV needs replace. New one is in back seat. I can't remember, for sure, ever replacing CV joints, but I was mechanic in 70's and early 80's. I have tools but no dead blow hammer. The box says something about that. Can I get a link to changing this? I didn't even waste time trying to google it, I just signed up on the first car forum on google. Car is '95 Subaru Leg. Breighten, left side, for now. Thanks and I will stick around if allowed to

Response From Hammer Time

You're going to need a very big prybar to pop it out of the transmission.

FRONT DRIVE SHAFT
1) Disconnect ground cable from battery. 2) Jack-up vehicle, support it with safety stands (rigid racks), and remove front wheel cap and wheels. 3) Unlock axle nut. 4) While depressing brake pedal, remove axle nut using a socket wrench.
CAUTION: Be sure to loosen and retighten axle nut after removing wheel from vehicle. Failure to follow this rule may damage wheel bearings.

5) Disconnect stabilizer link from transverse link. 6) Disconnect transverse link from housing. 7) Remove spring pin which secures transmission spindle to DOJ.
CAUTION: Use a new spring pin.





8) Remove front drive shaft assembly. If it is hard to remove, use ST1 and ST2.
ST1 926470000 AXLE SHAFT PULLER
ST2 927140000 PLATE

CAUTION:

  • Be careful not to damage oil seal lip when removing front drive shaft.
  • When front drive shaft is to be replaced, also replace inner oil seal.
  • Response From greasy one

    I am having second thoughts about this. Maybe start with getting a pry bar

    Response From Hammer Time

    You're also going to need a real heavy duty socket and impact gun for the axle nut that is over 150 Ft lbs.

    Response From greasy one

    Thanks for your time, I do have some 1/2"Sockets, but not impact, also the pipe from floor jack. That should break anything loose. I have been looking around the site and picking up tips. Wish my pal Bob from Gulf Shores, Al. was still around.

    Response From Hammer Time

    If you put that pipe on the average 1/2" ratchet, you'll turn it into a paperweight.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Greasyone: "I do have some 1/2"Sockets, but not impact, also the pipe from floor jack. That should break anything loose."

    Just a note on that. Yes you can get the leverage like that with some things but not the
    "rattling" effect of good air power which is much less likely to bend or break things.

    Even my own trick with air is capcity of storage not so much how fast. Can put an air can and do in a car's trunk
    to fit air tools tip for a one shot deal away from shop and same can hooked up as extra capacity.

    You need something if only for rare use more than just brute leverage for some things or send that out,

    T

    Response From Discretesignals

    I'd probably use a 1/2" breaker bar with the wheels on the ground to break the axle nut loose if you don't have access to an impact gun. I'd be leery of using a 1/2 ratchet and a pipe. Especially if the ratchet is a flea market special.

    Response From greasy one

    Thanks to all, I am gonna head to Autozone, for possible rental, especially for that inner shaft. I have a Craftsman set of sockets and a smaller pipe, not too worried about that. The tips help thou. I had no idea what was involved and now know a little more.

    Response From greasy one

    Well all fixed

























    by Firestone lol

    Response From greasy one

    There was a headache at the end of the job. It was nothing compared to what would have been if I had tried to do this procedure myself. They were spinning the wheels, under power and the wheel was wobbling bad. They thought the rim was bent, at first, then the rotor. It turns out the rotor was a bit rusted up and a piece got knocked loose and was trapped when the kid put the rotor back on.

    Response From nickwarner

    Congrats on the fix and glad it worked out for you.

    Response From greasy one Top Rated Answer

    Thanks to all. The car had been shaking, for awhile, but better now. Got a good deal too.

    selling my subaru dirt cheap!

    Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
    Question From Guest on selling my subaru dirt cheap!

    im trying to sell my subaru AWD wagon.
    i belive its around about the 1990 mark, but not too sure. it has only done 274600 Kms and has not much wrong with it.
    has a bull bar and strong 4x4 shocks.
    i just need to sell it because i got a new car and have no use for this car anymore and need some cash!
    if you are interested please email me at sam.90@live.com.au or dirt_ryda_23q@live.com

    all im asking is say inbetween 1000- 1500? probably will end up taking even less!

    thanks

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

    You may want to add a picture and 'what area you are in'.