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Hello, I have a 2006 Lincoln Nav 5.4 liter (lx I believe) that is nearly dropped to the ground on the front end. I want regular shocks rather than having to troubleshoot all the different parts to air ride and risk more problems later. While part shopping, an O'REILLY guy said I could just buy the f150 shocks and no "conversion kit" needed. Can someone help me figure out what exactly I am shopping for? How's the labor $$? Thanks!
That guy is an idiot. The shocks don't hold the car up and F150 parts don't interchange with a Navigator.
If you can afford to own a Navigator, you should be able to afford to repair it.
PS, you would be very smart to change your user name. This site is trolled by spammers regularly and they will chew up your e-mail.
The truck is not riding low because the shocks hold it up. It is riding low because the airbags have completely deflated. Please have a sense of what you are talking about before replying.
I want regular shocks rather than having to troubleshoot all the different parts to air ride and risk more problems later. While part shopping, an O'REILLY guy said I could just buy the f150 shocks and no "conversion kit" needed.
You are the one that seems a bit confused so don't tell me how to respond. YOU stated that you could swap out shocks to substitute for the air suspensions. You won't be doing that. Fix the truck right.
It's OK troll. I'm sorry I meant expedition manual suspension vs f150. If I knew how to do it I wouldn't post on here. Thought I might get some decent help from here. Good luck with your car issues; saw them and think I'll go with someone else's opinion...best of luck to you!
Yep, you just keep listening to the parts salesman at O'Reillys.
If you can't afford to repair a vehicle, don't buy it in the first place.
I have a Chevy Lumina 1997, 3.1 with 145,000mils.
I have been having trouble with my Lumina heating up for a while now. About a month ago I changed the thermostat and flushed the cooling system. That helped for a while, but eventually it started heating up again. I realized that the cooling fan would not come on till the heating gage was all they way on RED. So I came to the conclusion that for some reason the fan would not cool the engine, until dangerously HOT. Today I tried to check the relays to see if i can find the problem. I checked (Fan Cont #1) by removing the relay and creating a connection by placing 2 (V) shaped metal wires and both fans started working. I repeated the process on (Fan Cont # 2), but unlike the first time there was a spark and when i tried to start the car and it would not start. I realize i must have caused an electrical short some where, but i'm not sure where to start. Please help.!!!!
1st, If the fan comes on when "It's dangerously hot", that tells me that the cooling fan motor and the relay is okay.
I'd check the coolant fan switch. Some, are PCM controlled, but have a switch that commands the fan to turn on at a specific value, even if PCM controlled. Many coolant fans don't come on until 234F! Hopefully, you've just blown a fuse or a relay. Most GM relays are interchangable. You could take the A/C relay and plug it into the fuel pump relay socket, ect. But, I'd check the fuses, first. You may have an electrical distrubution box under the hood and additional fuses under the dash. As you've probably learned, it's not a good idea to "jump" across terminals.
Thank you very much for responding to my question/SOS!!
I checked the fuses and found a blown one. I replaced it and car starts with no problems. But I still have the problem of cooling fan not starting till gage on RED and HOT warning light comes on..then the gage slowly starts coming back down to middle area. I'm very interested to learn more about â€œCoolant fan switch and PCMâ€ you wrote about. Now I'm still a novice when it comes to fixing my own car, but I'm trying and very motivated to learn and my wallet appreciates it too. Can you please elaborate on PCM and Coolant fan Switch or maybe you can directed my to a website. I very much appreciate you help and advice and I'll make sure to pay it forward.
Thanks again !!
Glad to hear it was just a fuse! The PCM is the computer. The coolant fan switch is usually mounted near the thermostat housing. But, the problem you are describing sounds like a possible sticky thermostat. By the time the coolant fan switch "sees" the problem and turns on the fan, the engine is already HOT. I haven't learned how to post a picture of the coolant fan switch, but Tom G. knows how. Hopefully, he'll see the post and show you what it looks like, but I'd be real suspicious of the thermostat.
First let me just say thank you all for your help I really appreciate it. Okay, Way2old I changed the engine oil today and I saw that the oil was darker than usual and what little i saw of the inside of the engine when i moved the cap was brownish and dried up oil on the bottom of the cap. So i really do think that the car is getting hot..what i mean is that the gage is giving me the write temp reading (what do you think?). Unfortunately i need the car for work so i still have to drive it, I'm just extra careful with it. Landdchamploren, I changed to thermostat a few months back and whata tough job that was ...its in a really tight spot. To say the the truth the thermostat has been in my mind lately. I bought it at Auto-Zone (i should have gotten it from Chevy dealer) and I'm thinking that it might open at different temp. than the original one (btw, I remember testing the original one and it opened fine) can that be putting the whole cooling system out of wack? I was thinking of going back to AutoZone and see if its on file what kind it was that i bought and research it. I wana replace the coolant fan switch next and see where that takes me.....Tom G. please forward my regards to Kitty for providing a pic of what it looks like.
This morning before going to work, I repeated the process of manually turning on the engine cooling fans (by crossing the first relay terminal, not the 2nd one that caused the fuse blow out) to keep the engine cool till i got to work (30miles from home). I know what you are thinking, but i'm worried the car might not be able to take this over heating for much longer. So..about half way to work I see the gage is slowly moving to the right where the RED is. When it reached the RED, I pulled in to a gas station, but before I could put the car in park the gage started going back to the left....I started driving again and about 5 miles from work it started pulling toward RED, I keep on driving Warning HOT light comes on for about 3 seconds and goes away and i'm still driving...gage starts pulling back all the way left (cool, it goes back a whole 3 quarters) just when I reach the parking lot and almost the same story on the way back to home.
I just thought I'd mention this and hopefully it will help in diagnosing this irritating issue.
Thanks again for all your help!!!
Is the radiator fan working yet and can it show HOT when it's on? If it can read normal when it's on then if you can't figure it out right away then make up a fused jumper wire direct to unplugged fan to force to stay on all the time if you must use the car for now. Run heater (better yet 'defroster') full blast and open windows if too hot for you too can both help AND you should feel the air temp comparative to gauge for a guess on gauge accuracy. When boiling hot the heater will quit - know that! Defrost request MAY force radiator fan to run - not sure for this car.
Is this truly full of coolant and staying that way? If no cap on radiator, when cold just squeeze upper rad hose - no bubble to recovery tank should be seen coming up - if so there's urgent need to find out - head gaskets can do that - sorry for the lousy possiblility but you need to know.
Oil sluge from heat: Maybe. Take a look if you can see thru fill cap as a better indicator. Clean cap and look for recurrance. Synthetic oils tolerate heat tons better than conventionals but not a cover for a problem.
I just think the gauge is telling the truth. Low coolant level could cause it to be late or erratic. Radiator could be inadequate, t-stat might be bad but it's rare with the symptoms so far to me.
Note: Cooling fan(s) really aren't necessary when moving along steadily at speeds over 35-40mph or so if air dams and shrouding is intact. Is radiator clean enough - leaves, bugs etc?
Other: Belt properly tight to turn water pump? Kinda must be or other probs would be happening. Water pumps are usually a cake walk on the 3.1s. Never heard of one yet not pumping but makes me wonder. Has been reported that some can corrode impellers causes low flow at lower rpms at first if so.
Kitty say "Hi" - Can you tell her owner isn't wrapped too tight?
Kitty thinks it looks like this one so if this
is wrong it's her fault!
As way2old mentioned testing actual temp with infrafed thermometer would help a lot to verify the actual temp. Check right at thermostat housing when fully warmed up and the temp should be and stay close to the thermostat's rating ~ 195F +/-
Arggh ! Fan will come on later than the t-stat's temp rating. PCM is likely reading ohms from this sucker to make the call. Don't be jumping three wire switches!
This car may also use A/C's HPCO (high pressure cut out) also with three wires to activate fan(s) also thru PCM,
And, Tom comes through again! I'm impressed! LOL. I just saw an ad last week that you can buy a digital pyrometer for around $20. We paid A LOT more for the Snap-on one! Would be a good investment for DIYers.
btw, I love cats. Kitty looks like a good one! Lots better looking than her Daddy.
Another thing to consider is if the gauge is reading right. You need to confirm the gauge is correct before you go much farther. See if you can get your hands on an infrared thermometer and check engine temperature against what the gauge is reading. As noted above, the fans come on at different temps. Most will come on around the 220 to 225 range. Good luck.
Check all your fuses first.
Ok here's the rundown, 2.0 engine acts sluggish at times, what I have noticed is this if it's HOT out. And once the car gets hot to it's normal operating Temp. The acceleration sucks. When it's cool, the acceleration is great, new fuel pump and filter, I have hollowed out pre and cat installed non fouler on downstream o2 sensor, had the head reworked at head shop, new head gasket, new intake gasket, installed new water pump and timing belt, new plugs and wires, new map sensor, new idle air control valve , throttle positioning sensor, coil packs are 2 years old, car is not equipped with a mass air flow sensor, the car is throwing a code for a bad speed sensor, it is equipped with an input and output speed sensor, it shifts a little hard at times, because of the bad speed sensor but very rarely also transmission has been flushed with dealer recommended fluid. The car has acted sluggish before i did any work and it still dose... Any one have any Ideas...
The car has acted sluggish before i did any work and it still dose.
Gee, what a shock
So, you throw a couple hundred dollars worth of parts at the car and then destroy another few hundred worth of needed converters instead of simply paying for the correct diagnosis and you think you're the smart one?
If you really need to throw that much money away, simply giving it away would be a lot less work.
Damn yous guys are fools... you want to talk $ Sh#t and you don't no what the F" your talking about, for 1 let me explain myself, y i put all these parts on this $500 better, that gets 38 miles to the gallon...for the first reason, Coil packs previous owner did not change plugs and the result was coil pack shorted out on #2 cylinder, so i changed both... throttle position sensor went out two weeks ago, the car kept revving up and down, that fixed the problem...map sensor was not throwing the correct voltage at idle or while it was revved up to 2 grand...idle air control valve, car was dying at low idle, to much air in intake....Head job, Car would run hot with AC on, bubbles coming up through radiator...and since i was taking head off , y wouldn't i replace timing belt and water pump...catalytic converters, both were clogged, No i am not spending $600 on cat's when the car isn't even worth $500...Most of all these problems arose over the last 4 months... Now lets get this straight, i came here for help not to be criticized, So are you going sit there and keep talking $ sh#t or are you going to help me diagnose this problem.
OH, so sorry...................... I'll get you a refund right away.
Any chance you have access to a scan tool with streaming data? Why did you put a non-fouler on the 02? Check engine light on? Code #s if so. Sounds like a mess.
no i dont have access to a scan tool, the non fouler is to fool the ecu that there is not a low bank!
Hack job. Nothing like reading about a person that threw a bunch of parts on and hollowed a couple cats out instead of actually doing some diagnosis.
I have a 1995 gmc sonoma 4.3 v6 vortec 2wd with a little over 300000 miles on it. 3 wks ago going on 4 i replaced both of my head gaskets and ever since i have been unable to get my truck running like it should. since then ive also replaced the plugs plug wires rotor timing chain cam and crank sprockets intake manifold gaskets and distributor cap and its still backfiring on me. I dont have the money to take it to get it fixed and i cant get anyone to help me of any great degree.they tell me its the timing and ive checked it and rechecked it and its right where it needs to be. Im at a loss as to.what more i can do and honestly im about to start pulling my hair out. smart alec comments wont be tollerated. i cant just go out and get another vehicle not till i find steady work. PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH MY NIGHTMARE OF A TRUCK!
Does it backfire while cranking, idling, and/or under heavy load?
Is the engine missing or lacking power? Is the check engine light on?
Did you send the heads off to a machine shop? HT is right that the bottom end is probably worn out with that many miles on it. Did it smoke or have low compression before you took it apart? Why did you take it apart?
I'll be really shocked if this engine even survives this job with that many miles on it. The lower end just can't handle the increase on compression and I'm sure the heads weren't in very good shape in the first place.
"Vortec" I don't think you can adjust your own timing at all like older engines on this so have to have just that done or get the equipment not known right now by me for especially model year 1995? Others are not adjustable the next model year anyway and can't look it up right now. If everything else is OK that's the trouble most likely and don't wait as it's harming the engine,
tom is correct you cannot adjust the timing -
SO do you have a scanner- first we will need the codes- then to set the CMP CKP correlation, AKA sync.
Let us know about 1) scanner 2) codes 3) and maybe how you set the CMP when reinstalling the dist.
Make: GMC Sierra 1500
Mileage: over 200,000
This was my son's college truck and when he bought a new vehicle the truck became mine. When my son had the truck he added larger wheels and for the most part it has not been a problem until recently. The speed odometer runs behind fives mph (going 75mph on odometer will be 70mph on radar) and when you get between 60-75 mph the entire truck starts shaking. Once you get to 75mph it levels off and drives smoother.
Here's the question: is it the wheels/tires or after 200,000+ miles should I have the shocks replaced?
Please help - I do not know anything about vehicles.
just got this SO lets
Have the system checked for codes- yes even if light is off. ITS FREE easy fast- most auto parts stores do it FREE!
Different size tires can be a problem, is the yellow brake ABS light on? Also when you start vehicle you should see a BULB check of the lamp.
The shaking coming then smoothing out is suggesting a balance issue- sometimes you have steering wheel shake - other times its more a rear end whole vehicle feeling.
Now 200k if original shocks there due. Unlikely the cause of shake.
BUT lets work the shaking and wheel issues first...See if the code check adds any issues.
Hopefully this is NOT 4wd.
tell us what wheels were STOCK and what is there now- driver door has a decal for stock wheel size.
kev2 - the STOCK decal states FRT & BK: P255/70R16 rim: 16x6.5J - the tires on the truck now are 225/R16 and I think the rim is a 20 (?)
truck model # C15703
on the tire you have on rear, you are missing a number, 225 - xx- R16. That xx is a ratio we need to look at for dimensions. Your requirement is 255-70-R16.
Baring a wild ass ratio number something crazy - I still would say start with a wheel balance..
The R16 tells us the rim is a 16" diameter so they are NOT 20's.
That's a total change for the truck and should have been if it could when changed aligned for the new size. Probably couldn't or didn't try so tires all worn oddly a reason now you'll never win. At times and this was front end and all parts checked? It has to be greased a lot or tons of items would just be plain worn to dangerous but generally this has nothing to do with vibrations, balance or shaking nor do shocks as said.
Any will make existing balance and shaking worse not the cause first.
Smart kid - gave the truck to you. Now I suggest finding correct wheels and tires for it if you plan to keep it. IMO enough miles unless cared for to the letter.
Do you really want those at all - tires and wheels? That doesn't help at all to go outside of OE suggestions if not thought out some and aligned for it. Yes - tire size totally changes alignment including those that trash tires.
The speed and when balance appears and can go away is somewhat common but doesn't address the possible total incompatibility of those for the truck.
Miles - lots less than that total front and rear end items to do with steering and suspension should all be checked out. All worn items are a bit costly if 4X4 that much more.
IDK - Alignment check should include all wearing suspension parts so if you can check only first now to know if it's even safe do so and suggest correct wheels and tires possible to get all at once with OK tires then get the alignment and parts fixed unless some found not safe upon initial inspection.
If wheels are in good shape see if a junkyard would make a credit toward a swap of nice even matched wheels and hope for tires already to go as well - a chance of that.
All that if you are going to keep this at all. It could easily get real costly and the miles kills the value even if put back to just safe it's personal to me but wouldn't look at a vehicle with those miles,