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FCS Struts
2007 Saturn Relay Shock Absorber - Rear Left FCS Struts

P311-591AB63    342543  New

Qty:
$17.49
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Left
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Relay Rear Left
FCS Struts
2007 Saturn Relay Shock Absorber - Rear Right FCS Struts

P311-591AB63    342543  New

Qty:
$17.49
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Right
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Relay Rear Right
FCS Struts
2002 Saturn Vue Shock Absorber - Rear Left FCS Struts

P311-556DEC8    342551  New

Qty:
$29.29
  • Premium Gas Charged
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Saturn Vue Rear Left
FCS Struts
2002 Saturn Vue Shock Absorber - Rear Right FCS Struts

P311-556DEC8    342551  New

Qty:
$29.29
  • Premium Gas Charged
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Saturn Vue Rear Right
FCS Struts
2004 Saturn Ion Shock Absorber - Rear Left FCS Struts

P311-0682B30    342550  New

Qty:
$21.67
  • Premium Gas Charged
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Saturn Ion Rear Left
FCS Struts
2004 Saturn Ion Shock Absorber - Rear Right FCS Struts

P311-0682B30    342550  New

Qty:
$21.67
  • Premium Gas Charged
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Saturn Ion Rear Right
FCS Struts
2008 Saturn Astra Shock Absorber - Rear Left FCS Struts

P311-574D23C    342546  New

Qty:
$23.03
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Left
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Saturn Astra Rear Left
FCS Struts
2008 Saturn Astra Shock Absorber - Rear Right FCS Struts

P311-574D23C    342546  New

Qty:
$23.03
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Right
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Saturn Astra Rear Right
FCS Struts
2007 Saturn Aura Shock Absorber - Rear Left FCS Struts

P311-08B56DC    341615  New

Qty:
$21.95
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Left
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Aura Rear Left
FCS Struts
2007 Saturn Aura Shock Absorber - Rear Right FCS Struts

P311-08B56DC    341615  New

Qty:
$21.95
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear Right
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Aura Rear Right
KYB
2007 Saturn Outlook Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-1BAE7DC    554378  New

Qty:
$63.76
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-A-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 11.02
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 15.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.2x43)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.92
    • Upper Mount: E2(12.2x95.5)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Outlook Rear
One Stop Solutions
2007 Saturn Aura Shock Absorber - Rear One Stop Solutions

P311-12313BE    S349008  New

Qty:
$22.96
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2007 - Saturn Aura Rear XE
One Stop Solutions
2004 Saturn Ion Shock Absorber - Rear One Stop Solutions

P311-508CE81    S343308  New

Qty:
$24.36
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2004 - Saturn Ion Rear 2
One Stop Solutions
2008 Saturn Vue Shock Absorber - Rear One Stop Solutions

P311-0FD094F    S345055  New

Qty:
$37.07
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2008 - Saturn Vue Rear XE
One Stop Solutions
2005 Saturn Relay Shock Absorber - Rear One Stop Solutions

P311-0BAA8B3    S344338  New

Qty:
$30.86
  • Excludes Self-Leveling Rear Suspension
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2005 - Saturn Relay FWD Rear
One Stop Solutions
2008 Saturn Astra Shock Absorber - Rear One Stop Solutions

P311-3CA0688    S349043  New

Qty:
$24.09
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Body Position
2008 - Saturn Astra 2 Hatchback Rear
Sachs
2009 Saturn Vue Shock Absorber - Rear Sachs

P311-2E93C02    315 129  New

Qty:
$60.03
Sachs Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • -:
      • Comfort Performance Banded Piston: Our Engineered Polymer Piston Band Immediately Responds To Suspension Movements Even At Slow Speeds. The Piston Band Effectively Seals The Working Cylinder Allowing The Valves To Operate At 100% Efficiency. Valves With A
      • Durability Micro-polished Chrome Piston Rods: Sachs Micro-polished Chromed Piston Rods Have Been Hardened For Maximum Strength To Provide The Longest Service Life. Our Chrome Finish Helps Fight Rust While The Low-friction Surface Effectively Prevents Seal
      • Endurance Polished Working Cylinder: Sachs Working Cylinders Are Drawn To Precise Dimensions And Polished Ultra-smooth To Prevent Piston Band Wear. Our Technology Permits Close Tuning Tolerances While Reducing Friction And Heat For The Utmost Endurance.
      • Oem Technology Low Friction Seal: Sachs Advanced Seal Technology Uses A Special Nbr Rubber Which Is Highly Wear Resistant And Can Withstand Temperatures To 260 Degrees F, Keeping Oil In And Contaminants Out. Engineered With Low Friction Movement In Mind,
      • Precise Tuning Sintered Metal Valves: Our High Quality Valve Design Enables Precise Oil Flow By Using Sintered Metal Valve Construction. Tight Tolerances And Strength From Sintered Metal Allow For Precise Tuning Of Compression And Rebound Rates That Resto
      • Twin-tube Design
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2009 - Saturn Vue Rear Hybrid
Sachs
2006 Saturn Ion Shock Absorber - Rear Sachs

P311-4E34DA1    030 871  New

Qty:
$50.54
Sachs Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Monotube
  • Product Attributes:
    • -:
      • Comfort Performance Banded Piston: Our Engineered Polymer Piston Band Immediately Responds To Suspension Movements Even At Slow Speeds. The Piston Band Effectively Seals The Working Cylinder Allowing The Valves To Operate At 100% Efficiency. Valves With A
      • Durability Micro-polished Chrome Piston Rods: Sachs Micro-polished Chromed Piston Rods Have Been Hardened For Maximum Strength To Provide The Longest Service Life. Our Chrome Finish Helps Fight Rust While The Low-friction Surface Effectively Prevents Seal
      • Endurance Polished Working Cylinder: Sachs Working Cylinders Are Drawn To Precise Dimensions And Polished Ultra-smooth To Prevent Piston Band Wear. Our Technology Permits Close Tuning Tolerances While Reducing Friction And Heat For The Utmost Endurance.
      • Monotube Design
      • Oem Technology Low Friction Seal: Sachs Advanced Seal Technology Uses A Special Nbr Rubber Which Is Highly Wear Resistant And Can Withstand Temperatures To 260 Degrees F, Keeping Oil In And Contaminants Out. Engineered With Low Friction Movement In Mind,
      • Precise Tuning Sintered Metal Valves: Our High Quality Valve Design Enables Precise Oil Flow By Using Sintered Metal Valve Construction. Tight Tolerances And Strength From Sintered Metal Allow For Precise Tuning Of Compression And Rebound Rates That Resto
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2006 - Saturn Ion Rear 2
Monroe
2007 Saturn Outlook Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-36BCD0B    MA833  New

Qty:
$72.21
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • For Towing Hauling
  • Monroe Max-Air Air Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 11.060
    • Dust Shield: No
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 15.980
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 14mm Sleeve Id X 1.7/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2014
    • Min Year Covered: 2007
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Gmc Acadia
    • Most Popular Year: 2012
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1660271
    • Travel Length: 4.790
    • Upper Mounting Code: Ls103
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Saturn Outlook Rear
Monroe
2003 Saturn Ion Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-40659BE    5668  New

Qty:
$29.55
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 10.600
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 16.160
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 14mm Sleeve Id X 1.11/16 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2007
    • Min Year Covered: 2003
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Saturn Ion
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 430376
    • Travel Length: 5.560
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.7/8 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2003 - Saturn Ion Rear 3

Latest Saturn Repair and Shocks Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

sucky alternators or bigger problem?

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From jackwashere on sucky alternators or bigger problem?

Over the past year and a half I have replaced the alternator on a Saturn Ion three times. The last one that was replaced about a week ago is going bad again. The electric auto shop claims that there must be a bigger problem. The problem is making the alternator work extra hard according to the owner and that is breaking the unit. Several people have told me that the shop is probably using cheap bottom of the line alternators that go bad. Who is right?

Response From Sidom

Double check the basics.....Make sure all the connections are clean & tight......Look for missing or broken body to engine ground straps....I won't go into the whole story but bad grounds can cause bearings, mounts & other things to fail prematurely.....Current gets home any way it can and it doesn't care what it goes thru to get there......just that it can go thru it....

I can't say for sure on yours but on some GMs the feed for the alt runs off the starter solenoid.....I've had some weird charging system problems on GMs that were traced back to a loose nut on the starter solenoid.......

At the rate you are going thru alternators.....It might not be a bad idea to let the electrial shop take a look at it.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Comments: Battery in trunk! OK - Some others are under a back seat or in closed quarters do need to attach to vent outside vehicle and the vent hoses should be right there waiting. If hard to find doesn't surprise me. WE ARE TALKING HYDROGEN GASSES that can not be allowed to accumulate in a closed area - disasters happen over that.

Eating up alternators. Tons of cheap junk that isn't really rebuilt but more like cleaned up and brushes perhaps. If a battery is weak or low it does really strain an alternator. Belt must be known properly tensioned.

Other: I don't know of a good bargain battery especially lately. This is not a place to save a buck. I'm not even sure what brand or place to suggest anymore as things change so fast as to who really makes what and just gets a name slapped on them. There's also a factor with how they are handled along the way. They don't do being dropped and bounced around well nor being tipped over. Gel cell ones made for wild extremes can handle that but cost a real fortune.

Other issues are they are not in full state of charge when first made new. Some will charge them but near know most don't. Batteries don't like being at part charge or low and worse they can sit unsold for many months but are marked when they were made new. You can end up with a year old new battery but the aging starts when it was made.

It is a problem and you can end up playing ping-pong with batteries and alternators each dependent on the other being good. Unsure of this popular free battery testing too. Better than not doing anythng but I don't think it is perfect to know if one is really good or not?? - T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Does this have an aftermarket sound system or any after market equipment that may put extra load on the alternator?

Could be cheap alternators or something is causing them too fail because they are overworked. It is also important to be sure your battery tests good and has the rated amount of capacity. Important to make sure nothing is leaking all over the alternator. Washing an engine and getting chemicals or thermal shocking the alternator can cause failure also.

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to amp clamp the alternator output and see what the alternator is actually doing.

Response From jackwashere

No aftermarket sound system. Regular standard GM Delco radio that came with the car.

I thank you for the idea to check the battery. The battery was replaced under warranty one month ago. It went bad after about 35 months. Now I have a new battery. I replaced the alternator a week ago because a new battery did not fix the problem. New battery new alternator. The battery light on the dashboard still intermittently occasionally flashes to indicate the alternator is not charging. I'm wondering what are the implications for battery performance if it needs to be vented and I got a regular old battery from Pep Boys? After you mentioned checking the battery I did some research and found out I need a vented battery for the Ion because it is housed in the trunk. I will also check the amps rating on the battery they gave me. Three years ago I walked into Pep Boys and asked for a battery. They looked it up in their computer system and gave me one. I'm wondering if perhaps they did not give me the wrong battery and that is the source of all of these problems with the alternator and battery going bad? Either this venting feature not being present on the battery I bought kills batteries or they gave me a battery that was too small for the job?

Response From Hammer Time

Several people have told me that the shop is probably using cheap bottom of the line alternators that go bad.


That's what I would guess. It's pretty hard to find any quality these days and competition pushes them into the cheapest thing they can find.

2007 ION thumping/knoking when turning sharp

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From armbartim on 2007 ION thumping/knoking when turning sharp

I have a 2007 Saturn Ion with about 67000 miles on it. When i turn sharp left (steering wheel all the way turned left) i hear a knocking noise from the drivers side wheel well. Any ideas what might cause this would be much appreciated.

Response From tlojak38

Cv joint sound like to me

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thread getting old. Hope it's all fixed by now,

T

Response From armbartim Top Rated Answer

actually its not fixed.....i took it to the dealer because there is still a warranty on it but they claim to have found nothing wrong. They checked the shocks and struts, barrings and joints but i have my doubts since the noise is pretty obvious and they could hardly find it( i had to request they test drive it a second time after they could not hear it the first) I'm thinkin its not cv because that would have lead to other noises and things by now im thinking mount or barring maybe the top of the spring

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep your paperwork - they should have found that if so,

T

Driver Door CANNOT open, PLEASE HELP! ty

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Gunner690 on Driver Door CANNOT open, PLEASE HELP! ty

Hey everyone, i'm new to the site, and in desperate need of a second opinion. Here's the situation.

1993 Saturn SL2 1.9L 4cl DOHC

Door wont open
-Cant remove outer door panel
-Cant Access Door latch from outside
- Cant remove window Glass or Scissor Lift
Diagnosed from removing the inside panels and handle, that the issue is with the Latch itself and nothing is wrong with the Link rods.

Cross Referencing with the rear side door, it seems the spring that actuates the latch open isn't functioning.


Options
Since the outer door panel cant be removed and the service holes in the inner door offer no visual or remote access to the latching mechanism, there are only 2 options to get this door open, by my knowledge.
1. Slide something down the window slit and poke around till i find the latch and push hard to release it.
- risking scratching the window, NO light to see what I'm hitting, and no reference to where i am in the door.

2. All possible above variables weighed. my only other option is to use an angle grinder and CUT another access panel in the inner door to allow access and visual of the latch mechanism, and work from there to pry it open with, say, a screwdriver.

If your still with me, i thank you for your time. What I'm looking for from all/any of you, is a second opinion, if anyone knows of a third option that might work, or say a simple "yeah i've done this before, you just stick your finger in this hole and POP!"
Before i go cutting my way to freedom.

Thank you, -Mike

Response From Hammer Time

1. Slide something down the window slit and poke around till i find the latch and push hard to release it.
- risking scratching the window, NO light to see what I'm hitting, and no reference to where i am in the door.

That's the way we do it.

Response From Gunner690

well i tried removing the weather striping on the outside of the car to work a length of left over brake line i had.
its a nice sunny day out, which means the contrast in that small space is even worse to see what I'm doing in there. I tried to prod from the inside, through one of the access holes in the inner door, but to no avail.

My thoughts.
Even if i get the door open in this manner, i wont be able to close it. or else i have to start all over. I dont have the replacement latch and/or new door to swap out whence i do get it open.
Therefore my second option feels like the smarter option in my case. Cut a smallish hole in the inner door, to properly access the latch, and once i get the door open, i can continue to open and shut it at my convenience until i get the replacement part.
Thank you Hammer Time for responding, but is there any tips you could give me, that have worked in the past when you prod through the window slit?

Bump

Response From Hammer Time

You on;ly need to get it open once. then you can remove the door panel and leave it off until you have the problem resolved. that will give you access to the inside of the door from that side. Don't go cutting any holes in the door. They make small lights to slip down along the glass. You'll need some type of link tool the can grab and move levers.

Response From Gunner690

Well, hammer i strongly doubt blindly prodding would have accomplished anything. i tried my best with what i had to work with down the window slit, but it quickly became apparent i had no other option.
so went out an bought a cheep angle grinder and metal cutting disk and just cut out a small 5"x 5" square in the inside panel to gain access to the latch assembly. after poking and prodding and learning about this contraption to -no door opening- freedom. I decided to drill out the rivets holding the bracket to the plastic. THEN i proceeded to take a large screwdriver and hammer, and broke all that plastic to reveal the inner components. Unfortunately, i see now the problem is with the retaining mechanism, that holds the latch against the spring loaded component, which is no longer loaded.
What i did had to be done. i am honestly calculating every move i make on this thing. and i'm glad i'm undertaking this myself, for i doubt any shop would want to.

But a question for you, know of any sites i could get a new door latch from? i cant seem to find any information on any. I can probably still salvage the lock cylinder, just need a new latch, any ideas?
thanks

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

Wow your lucky it was a 1993 Saturn SL2 and not a car that's hard to get used parts for.
Well you did what you set out to do so ... good job, i guess.lol

Response From Hammer Time

That's always been a dealer only part.

Response From Gunner690

cool, well, i called my local junkyard supplier and i have a whole new door assembly coming in a couple days. Today i managed to gain access to the release mechanism and now i can open and close the door on my command with a screwdriver! When i get the door I'm going to take the old one off and harvest the lock cylinder and replace the new one so i can use the same keys, and install the new door. Thanks for the council on this. don't delete the thread quite yet, ill reply with the end result, and write a short debriefing about what went wrong and how i fixed it, for anyone else with this problem, thanks hammer.

Response From Hammer Time

We never delete them. Many people search the archives.

Response From Gunner690

cool, sounds good, ill let yall know how it goes.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not sure I want anyone to read this though. I totally disagree with the way you did this and would never advise anyone to cut the door.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Gunner: No posts/threads deleted here unless total spam crap. Opinions welcome even in not my own and archived here.

Enjoy a clean site,

T

2006 Uplander w/heavy clunk in rear passenger

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From DennyD on 2006 Uplander w/heavy clunk in rear passenger

2006 Chevy Uplander, 2.5l engine, 160k KMs

I have a heavy metal-on-metal clunk (sounds like a dead shock) in my rear of my 06 Chevy Uplander. Even the smallest of bumps cause the clunk. I put on new shocks and a new trackbar (both of which I was told was the problem). There are no struts on this model, just springs and shocks. There's nothing broken on the springs.

The only other thing I could think of are the control arm bushings but there's no play in them at all. I removed the spare tire and my storage area is empty. Also checked for play in the side and rear doors - all good. Any idea what is causing the sound, and more importantly, how to stop it?

Response From ebbbs

i had loud clunking noise left rear 06 uplander changed shocks didnt help changed control arm(trailing arm) bushings whalaa no more clunk!! bushing looked fine pre removal. old bushing was like butter in a vise compared to new one. used a 3/8 extension thru busing bolt hole could move old one around so easy new one barely moved 1/8 of an inch!!

Response From Hammer Time

Please read the FORUM RULES before posting. This question is nearly a year old.

Response From Hammer Time

This isn't the kind of problem that you are going to find on a forum. You are going to find it on a drive on ramp lift with someone listening while someone else works the car up and down.

Response From DennyD

Thanks for the reply. Sadly we've done that and we can't hear squat. Just thought that maybe someone here might have had the same issue or is a known problem.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Agreed,shouldn't be too hard to pinpoint, especially if you have Chassis Ears as HT mentioned.

Check into these TSB's, may apply to your concern

Subject: Noise Or Clunk In The Rear Suspension - keywords bushing clunk noise rattle rear suspension thump #PIT3323C - (01/23/2007)

Models: 2005-2007 Buick Terraza 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander 2005-2007 Pontiac SV6 2005-2007 Saturn Relay



This PI was superseded to update Model Years. Please discard PIT3323B.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern:
Customers may report loud clunk or noise while driving in the rear suspension of their crossover sport Van equipped with FE1, FE2 or FE3 rear suspension. The noise maybe described as the muffler hitting the floor pan or a loud slapping noise. Recommendation/Instructions:
Inspect and replace the rear trailing arm bushing P/N 10341351 as needed.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.




__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Subject: Stiff Rear Upper Suspension Or Shocks Clunk Over Bumps - keywords bushing cargo GMT201 noise rear #PIT3861A - (08/04/2006)

Models: 2005-2007 Buick Terraza 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander 2005-2007 Pontiac SV6 2005-2007 Saturn Relay Cargo or Incomplete Mobility Vehicles Only



This PI was created to add 07 MY. Please discard PIT3861.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI. Condition/Concern:
If the customer/fleet operator finds the suspension too hard (shocks clunk because of full extension over bumps), ask how the van will be used. If it will be loaded with several hundred pounds, the suspension will be alright. If it will be used predominately with light loads and the customer is objecting to the ride characteristics see recommendations below. Recommendation/Instructions:
Replace the rear springs with 22132418 which will reduce the spring preload by 600 pounds

  1. Make sure the customer is objecting to the ride characteristics, not the dealer sales department.
  2. Record trim heights with the original and the replacement springs and forward the information to tom.geist@gm.com.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Response From DennyD

Just as the 2nd TSB said to do, I loaded the back of the van (with my wife and 4 kids - 600lbs easy) and the problem was still there, loud as ever so it's not the 2nd TSB. They say the 1st one should be ignored now but it's the last thing I've not checked.

Imagine driving on a dirt road with no shocks. That's the sound I get. I think I bought a lemon...

Response From Hammer Time

These are the kind of things that we deal with every day and it's not rocket science to find the noise if it is load and consistent enough. Any decent tech should be able to pinpoint the noise.

Response From Hammer Time

It really shouldn't be that difficult to pinpoint if the noise is consistent. A set of chassis ears would be a lot of help.

Front rotors corroding, scaling, pitting on inside face only

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From Frank D on Front rotors corroding, scaling, pitting on inside face only

1997 Saturn wagon SW-1 85,000 miles

I've just gone through the third set of rotors in six years that have rusted, scaled, and pitted to the danger point. Each set has lasted only about two years before giving way to heavy pulsations on braking. On replacement it can be seen that this is caused by rusting and flaking of the rotor surfaces, on the inner face only. The shiny surface of the rotor that is in contact with the pad is actually flaking and chipping off from the body, and underneath that it's all rough and rusty. I haven't driven more than 3,000 miles a year in the past six years, so I'm baffled as to why and how this happens.

I've been told that this could be caused by overly heavy braking, which might cause warping, but there's no visible warping and I'm not any heavier a braker than anyone else I've ridden with. In Googling the web I haven't found much on this subject -- at least not to the extent of mine -- but I have seen a comment that this could be caused by overly tight lug nuts.

Any comments or advice? Thanks!

Frank

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Calipers need be known good and lubricated at slides, pins etc.

A low mile, low per year use, with possible outdoor parking is trouble to brakes rust wise. There are different grades of rotors from super cheap low grade metal to my favorite "Centric" ones which come turned and with baked on paint on many types to minimize rust. Friction surface can't be painted but metal grade can make a difference,

T

Response From Frank D

Thanks for your reply, Tom. Yes I park outside, but many of my relatives and friends do also and have never had this problem. The rotors and pads that were installed this time are Duralast and the pads are ceramic (Cmax), both of which are higher quality than my previous ones, so I guess we'll have to wait and see.

Frank

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You said it - " Time will tell" and hope they do better. I just know the super cheap (legal to use) ones I've seen here are real junk. Even have seen bubble holes in them and most required machining/turning before use as they were just as crumby as if only poured into a mold!

Rusted rotors is plain a problem in low use, outdoor garaged vehicles. I don't think they make a totally rust free rotor or drum for brakes. The better stuff one hopes uses both a higher grade of metal. I do like the ceramic pads so far have lasted long and silent as they claimed.

Have the brakes looked at and request a good look at inside at tire rotation time to know the situation over time. I do find inside parts don't dry off from overnight dew as fast as the outside parts you see, some even thru the wheels,


T

Response From Frank D

Thanks, Tom!
1) I had no idea there was that much variation in quality.
2) I had the lines bled and new brake fluid put in.
3) I hope I'm in for a better experience this time.

Frank

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just to beat this subject up some more I just found a couple pics out there showing some quality differences. Puters and the web always amaze me as to what's documented out there.

Here's what is a good example of a cheap rotor, used but showing problems early,



Now my current favorite and I'll give them the plug "Centric" that is finely made and machined, painted in areas that can rust. In fairness the pic is of a new one but you can see the detail,



All should be but these are particularly well balanced as well. Some skip that part and it spins with your wheel so if it's way off so is that wheel. More than most folks think about it and nobody like hearing that more $$ is the better deal in the long run but most of the time it sure is!

Have a great day,

T

Response From Frank D

Tom, sorry but that image of the rotor problems didn't come through.

Just to complete the subject, here are links to a couple of pictures of my old rotors, taken yesterday. I hope these come through.

- corroded left front rotor (inside face)
- corroded right front rotor (inside face)

Frank

Response From Hammer Time

That stuff is just coming off in big chunks. I'm not sure where you live but that looks like salt damage. I run a shop on the ocean and I see that all the time and there is nothing that will prevent it other than getting away from the ocean or source of the salt. I could look at the car and be able to tell the customer which side of the car faced the ocean when it was parked because the problem would be so much worse facing that direction. Driving it more often will help and make sure that the slides are good and free and not frozen also.

Response From Frank D


That stuff is just coming off in big chunks. I'm not sure where you live but that looks like salt damage. I run a shop on the ocean and I see that all the time and there is nothing that will prevent it other than getting away from the ocean or source of the salt. I could look at the car and be able to tell the customer which side of the car faced the ocean when it was parked because the problem would be so much worse facing that direction. Driving it more often will help and make sure that the slides are good and free and not frozen also.

HT, it can't be salt damage from the ocean because I live in Rochester, NY, nowhere near the ocean, and I don't ever drive more than 20 miles or so from home. However, here in the northeast they salt the roads in the winter, and when the road spray has dried on your car, it looks like you've been driving through whitewash. Even so, I've lived here for over 40 years and I've never had this brake rusting problem with any of the 5 or 6 other cars I've owned. And since it's only the inner faces of both rotors that are corroding (not the outer faces at all), it can't be due to the weather (snow or rain) because that would mostly affect the outer faces. Yes, it's possible that it's due to the road salt, but brake corrosion never happened to the least degree in any other car I've had. It's a mystery (an expensive one) to me.

Frank

Response From Frank D

Thanks, HT!

I'm going to assume from Hammer Time's response, if nobody offers any other convincing ideas to the contrary, that the cause of my brake rotors' deterioration over the last six years is road salt. But as TV detective Columbo was fond of saying, just one last thing. I still have a nagging thought: could hard braking have caused or contributed to this condition (please see the pictures I posted above). Now I know I don't do hard braking. I have no reason to. I'm not an aggressive driver. I do mainly city driving and make no sudden or hard stops. I don't have a "lead foot." But just to put this idea to rest, of hard braking causing overheating and warping of the rotors, leading to the condition you can see in the photos, in case anyone raises it, I wonder if anyone would have a comment in that regard. Thank you!

Frank

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK Columbo!



Salt - plain sodium chloride is used on roads and the type of salt in ocean water. It's highly corrosive to cars, boats, ships even, buoys, moorings and all!

When steel is made there are a bazillion ways to enhance its resistance to corrosion. Most all - even stainless will give out that protection especially with heat - takes a lot longer though. High carbon steel is better than no carbon steel but doesn't tolerate heat for long either.

Exhaust and brake parts get both wet with salty water and are hot so go faster than other metal.

Why the inside? Guess is that it gets hotter, less vented there, and dries out slower could explain it(??)

T

Response From Frank D

Tom, regarding the question of why only the inside face of each rotor corrodes, I can think of the salt spray from each front tire splashing over to the inside face of the opposite wheel. The outside face never gets splashed this way.

My only remaining questions are, why this car and nobody else's that I know of, here in the same part of the state, three times in six years running, and why in the past six years has it happened three times but never before? I've never had to replace the rotors on any of my other cars in my whole life. It just never happened.

Whatever the cause, it's a real mystery.

Frank

Response From Hammer Time

It's just the specific situations that you were in this year. you likely traveled in a storm that packed some salty slush up under the car and it likely stayed there for a while and went to work. It's not a big mystery. It's just salt damage. Don't try to over analyze it.

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

I love a good mystery. By any chance has the butler driven the car? Heres my opinion, for what its worth. In most cases I have found that exessive wear, heat on inside only is caused by frozen or tight slides or pins. the piston pushes out and applies the inner pad the caliper body must then slide over to apply the outer pad. No slide and the inner does all work and creates uneven exessive heat. Your current vehicle may have a caliper design more prone to sticking.

Response From Hammer Time

Upstate New York salt is no different than the ocean. I was just comparing my experience with salt. You are in a heavy salt area and you probably had some get packed up there at one time and it went to work.