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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Bilstein
    Bilstein
  • FCS Struts
    FCS Struts
  • KYB
    KYB
  • Monroe
    Monroe
  • One Stop Solutions
    One Stop Solutions
  • Sachs
    Sachs
  • Sen-Sen
    Sen-Sen

Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Shocks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Monroe, KYB
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Oldsmobile Replacement Shocks Parts
Monroe
1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-51D7280    37156  New

Qty:
$45.53
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • w/o Automatic Rear Air Leveling System; Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Light Truck Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 12.750
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 20.250
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2009
    • Min Year Covered: 1997
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Venture
    • Most Popular Year: 2005
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 1339790
    • Travel Length: 7.500
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Silhouette FWD Rear
Monroe
1971 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Shock Absorber - Front Monroe

P311-47AD060    5801  New

Qty:
$30.48
Monroe Shock Absorber  Front
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.250
    • Dust Shield: No
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 14.375
    • Lower Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.1/2 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1952
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Parts Pack(s): P01134
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 1138227
    • Travel Length: 5.125
    • Upper Mounting Code: Stem Mount - 2.3/8 Stem Length X 3/8-16 Thread Pitch
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1971 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Front
KYB
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-37B54FF    KG5452  New

Qty:
$46.53
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 10.94
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 16.34
    • Lower Mount: E2(12.8x41.3)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 5.39
    • Upper Mount: E2(12.8x41.3)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front
Monroe
1955 Oldsmobile 88 Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-45E56B9    31000  New

Qty:
$22.96
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Monroe Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 12.000
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 19.500
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8 Bushing Id X 1.5/16 Bushing Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2004
    • Min Year Covered: 1939
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Toyota Pickup
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Parts Pack(s): P00411
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1572077
    • Travel Length: 7.500
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8 Bushing Id X 1.5/16 Bushing Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1955 - Oldsmobile 88 Rear
Monroe
1971 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Shock Absorber - Front Monroe

P311-4514A9D    32066  New

Qty:
$22.96
Monroe Shock Absorber  Front
  • Monroe Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.250
    • Dust Shield: No
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 14.500
    • Lower Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
    • Max Year Covered: 2005
    • Min Year Covered: 1952
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Toyota Pickup
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Parts Pack(s): P01134
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 2122241
    • Travel Length: 5.250
    • Upper Mounting Code: Stem Mount - 2.3/8 Stem Length X 3/8-16 Thread Pitch
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1971 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Front
KYB
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-0D302C0    KG5451  New

Qty:
$47.99
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.69
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.6x41)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 9.25
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x30)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada Rear
KYB
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-151CEEF    KG4162  New

Qty:
$52.24
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.76
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.23
    • Lower Mount: E2(12.8x62)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 8.47
    • Upper Mount: E2(12.8x42.5)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada Rear
KYB
1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-2017F78    344338  New

Qty:
$36.42
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • w/o Rear Level Control Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 12.6
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 20.08
    • Lower Mount: E2(12x38)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 7.48
    • Upper Mount: E2(12x38)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Silhouette Rear
Monroe
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-4B01EED    32186  New

Qty:
$22.96
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Monroe Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 14.500
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 24.000
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 14mm Sleeve Id X 1.11/16 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2005
    • Min Year Covered: 1982
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet S10
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 3211857
    • Travel Length: 9.500
    • Upper Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada Rear
KYB
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-1380BB0    KG5548  New

Qty:
$36.18
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 12.95
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 20.83
    • Lower Mount: E1
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 7.87
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x0)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1978 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais RWD Rear
KYB
1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-4A4572C    KG54325  New

Qty:
$43.80
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade w/o Rear Level Control
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 12.8
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 19.84
    • Lower Mount: E2(12x38)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 7.05
    • Upper Mount: E2(12x38)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Silhouette Rear
Monroe
1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-3BA2203    MA824  New

Qty:
$74.90
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • with Automatic Rear Air Leveling System
  • Monroe Max-Air Air Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length: 12.750
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Rubber
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 20.125
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2009
    • Min Year Covered: 1997
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Venture
    • Most Popular Year: 2005
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1339790
    • Travel Length: 7.375
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Silhouette FWD Rear
Monroe
1997 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-3BA2203    MA824  New

Qty:
$74.90
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • w/o Automatic Rear Air Leveling System; For Towing Hauling; PN[AK29] Reqd for Installation on Vehicles Without Auto Air Leveling Systems.
  • Monroe Max-Air Air Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length: 12.750
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Rubber
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 20.125
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2009
    • Min Year Covered: 1997
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Venture
    • Most Popular Year: 2005
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1339790
    • Travel Length: 7.375
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.1/2 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Silhouette FWD Rear
Monroe
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-243BF6F    5802  New

Qty:
$23.72
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 12.750
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 20.875
    • Lower Mounting Code: L1/cp3
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1963
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1972
    • Parts Pack(s): P00576
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 935338
    • Travel Length: 8.125
    • Upper Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1978 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Rear
Monroe
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-4227BAF    5897  New

Qty:
$37.08
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length: 16.125
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 21.250
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 10mm Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1980
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
    • Most Popular Year: 1996
    • Parts Pack(s): P01134
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 396212
    • Travel Length: 5.125
    • Upper Mounting Code: Stem Mount - 2.3/8 Stem Length X 3/8-16 Thread Pitch
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Rear
Monroe
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Shock Absorber - Front Monroe

P311-23BCEC4    32194  New

Qty:
$22.96
Monroe Shock Absorber  Front
  • Monroe Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 11.500
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 16.500
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 1/2 Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2005
    • Min Year Covered: 1983
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet S10
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1425756
    • Travel Length: 5.000
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 1/2 Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada Front
KYB
1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-0AFE712    343160  New

Qty:
$23.49
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.17
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 21.06
    • Lower Mount: E2(10x40)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 6.89
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Rear
KYB
1994 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-0AFE712    343160  New

Qty:
$23.49
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • w/o Rear Level Control Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.17
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 21.06
    • Lower Mount: E2(10x40)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 6.89
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Oldsmobile Silhouette Rear
KYB
1993 Oldsmobile Silhouette Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-0AFE712    343160  New

Qty:
$23.49
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • w/o Rear Level Control For vehicles with Electronic Susp., Leveling Control, and Air Suspensions refer to Appendix C. Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: Yes
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.17
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 21.06
    • Lower Mount: E2(10x40)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 6.89
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Oldsmobile Silhouette Rear
Monroe
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass Shock Absorber - Front Monroe

P311-5B8B7C6    5804  New

Qty:
$26.43
Monroe Shock Absorber  Front
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 8.625
    • Dust Shield: No
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 13.375
    • Lower Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/16 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
    • Max Year Covered: 1978
    • Min Year Covered: 1964
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Camaro
    • Most Popular Year: 1969
    • Parts Pack(s): P01134
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 436108
    • Travel Length: 4.750
    • Upper Mounting Code: Stem Mount - 2.3/8 Stem Length X 3/8-16 Thread Pitch
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1968 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Front

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Shocks Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 oldsmobile alero cutting out all the time help

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From rainclouds on 2001 oldsmobile alero cutting out all the time help

Have changed fuel filter and car still dies out when slowing down and at stops and lights it is happening more frequently now. HELP PLEASE give me some suggestions for this problem. Thanks. 2001 Oldsmobile Alero.

Response From Hammer Time

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try eliminating any vacuum leaks and cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

Response From rainclouds Top Rated Answer

Oh Thank You So Much That Helps alot. Thanks 4 Your Help Have a great night. And will Try This and see if it helps aleast I know where to start with things Thanks Again

Lift Kit for rear suspension 2002 Olds Alero

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From streetcar76 on Lift Kit for rear suspension 2002 Olds Alero

I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero. I have a power wheelchair lift on the back and I cannot find any kind of
a lift kit, to keep the chair lift from dragging on the pavement high spots.
Can anyone help me find something that will work? It doesn't have shocks so Air Shocks are out, it has Mcpherson
type struts on all four wheels so standard air bags won't work. Help this old guy please? Jack

Response From Discretesignals

That is a tough one there because it seems no one makes suspension components that are designed to lift the rear of your vehicle to compensate for tongue weight. Most vehicles here where I live that have scooter lifts are either vans, suvs, or full size cars.

I was looking around on the net and there is a company that makes a dolly looking apparatus that enables you to keep your mid or small size car and haul that around. Have you tried calling the company that made your lift and see what they recommend?

Response From streetcar76

Thanks, autojunky and thanks too, to the other guys. I think I need to get an SUV or a van.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't try to back up.........LOL

Response From Discretesignals

You can't jackknife it because the wheels swivel when you back up. Check it out. Pretty cool.


Response From Hammer Time

OH, I see. It's rigid. I thought it was a trailer.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

They rag that thing out testing it. You could probably take that thing on Baja.

oldsmobile alero 2001

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on oldsmobile alero 2001

I ran it out of gas and now it won't start. I can here the fuel pump working but no gas is getting to the engine.i have not changed the fuel filter in 3 years ,can this be the problem.

Response From dmac0923

its more likely that the fuel system is air bound now from the pump pumping air through the lines.

fill the tank, cycle the ignition without starting to prime the pump. and try to start it. it will take several attemps to get all the air out.


since there is air already in the system, it would be a good time to do the filter. usually its by mileage more then time elapsed.

Response From Guest

I did that and gas came out, but i still can't smell any gas going to the engine.

Response From dave284

Then you have to test the injectors and see if they are receiving any voltage....this is usually done with a noid light.

Response From Guest

Do you think it could be the fuel filter, because it was coaking a little bit in the last week,and when i ran out of gas it just shut down.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just put a new fuel filter in and rule that out for now. Then it's got air again from just that. Prime the throttle body with starting fluid if need be. It will - well should - purge the air in lines out - it was running before you ran out of gas. Know that running out of gas it hard on the fuel pump. If it was weak that might have hurt it. Pressure test may show it's not up to par,

T

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Your problem is that air has got trapped in the lines, the best way to get it out is to find the fuel test port on the fuel rail....push the middle core in, have someone try to crank until you see gas comming out...CAUTION !!! WHILE DOING THIS KEEP A RAG OVER THE TEST PORT AND YOUR HAND TO KEEP THE GAS FROM SPRAYING IN YOUR FACE

Lincoln struts/airbag

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From dave284 on Lincoln struts/airbag

Hey Tom, How hard would it be to to install air bags for the suspention on a 95 Lincoln mark Vlll? I haven't done one before. I know this is your kind of car. BTW still sick but feeling better

Response From dave284

Tom, never mind the air bags , installing conversion kit no-air. The guy who has this car also wants to change the front brakes from shoes to pads on 63 Lincoln convertable, I wouldn't know way before my time,any suggestions.?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get the air out is a great idea! I avoid those like the plague! I don't think you can on the Continentals but the Mark should be more like a T-Bird or Cougar around then.

The 63 I'm pretty sure is drum front brakes. Bearings in the drum, inner/outer and would look familiar with I think just one wheel cylinder on top. The early discs I think started in 64 and not sure which if any Lincolns. T-Bird had disc in all 64s up - those were a pill to rebuild calipers.
For the 63 you can get about everything new. If stuck the one stop shop is Baker's Auto, Putnam, CT -WWW.BakersAuto.com or email Sales@BakersAuto.com - tell Steve O. I said HI!

Funny About Lincolns: Town Car was just a trim package name just once in the 50s and once in the 60s. They were Continentals (full size), Mark was a different bird. 1980 was the first Town Car only as a body/chassis name for the car itself. Continental was once a Grenada, and a Taurus platform! Go figure??

T

Response From dave284

Tom, feeling better by the hour. The guy haven't towed it here yet ,but waiting to see it one repair at a time, my glass is already overfilled.I have just got a front grill for the 95 lincoln $150 from savage yard and the owner delivered the strut conversion kit. When I start on the 63 let you know.


THANKS TOM

Response From Lando10101

Hi guys them set ups are extremely expensive to replace. I have an account with arnott industries . Look them up for future issues they have very Well Priced conversion kits . come complete and easy to install . I dont work for them but I have used em and my experience was great .

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LINCOLN_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid2.html

That Arnott site is clickable above. Worth archiving on this thread as the air bag suspension will be an ongoing headache for these and other cars.............

T

Response From dave284

Tell me about it. I've had worked on 6 cads past 2 months

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just FYI: Air level has been around since at least the 60s. Just air shocks and rods to sense height at diff and an air pump/pressure release. Two Conts 89+90 failed with the air strut - no spring and hit so low it chewed up the rear tires!! Nice idea Ford! A Town car came here with them blown out - guy with zero bucks and you couldn't roll a golf ball under the thing!

There are features good and bad with every vehicle - I just wish someone would put them all in one vehicle!

Love the slogans over the years..........

GM "Keep your GM car all GM" Jay Leno ---- Why! GM couldn't do it right - why not let someone else's parts try??

Ford has a better idea! --- I'm still waiting!

A fav.... "This is not your Father's Oldsmobile" Me- damn tootin because your Father's Oldsmobile could suck that peice of crap thru the air cleaner and spit it out the exhaust and not cough!! ( I owned a boring 98 with HO 455 W-30 ((special order request -365bhp)) package that blew the doors off almost everything)

LOL,

T

Response From Double J

Hey Tom / everybody...

I owned a few 98's in my time....
MAN... When you put a boot in their a**...they would flat out sh** and git.....

Here's another fav...." Chevrolet ..." The Heartbeat of America"... good slogan if it was used back in the 50's,60's or early 70's but not in the 90's...lol....they changed it in the 90's to " Genuine Chevrolet"...lol...genuine what? crap?
I hope my heart beats a lot better than that.

Thanks for the laugh....

Response From dave284

Yea,my heart lies with the older 70s 455 wildcats it could over heat 3 times before any damage would result, the engine / head pure steel not like the cars today( beer cans on wheels) I know the 90s car backfire onetime every thing on it goes to heck I was kinda a buick man back then

Response From Tom Greenleaf



Did I hear "Wildcat?"

T

Response From dave284

EYE CANDY!

Response From dave284

I was removing the front struts and notice the upper ball joints shot. Can these be pressed out or do I have to replace the whole control arm? I want to make sure before I remove them. BTW since I'm installing these non-air struts is there a way to disable the ride control service display warning?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Duralast / Ball Joint - Upper
Warranty - LLT FA4071 $73.99 Application: Driver side Note: Arm & joint

Dave - Unless I clicked around wrong this is one piece and not so expensive to try to do just the joint. I don't really know the best way to get rid of the dash light and bet the bulb is hard to get at.........not sure but sometimes best to keep a blown bulb in the socket on some things,

T

Response From dave284

Thats the part, I had a feeling it would be a one piece. And for the warning light it appears as words just like the ones on the cadillacs , I'm thinking this vehicle would have a ride control module. If so ,by disconnecting it would it stop the messages comming on?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right - It might need to be plugged in - once again don't know for sure. Before any of these cars I knew a couple people who really did take a screwdriver and hammer it in thru the dash to put out the damn lights! Ahhhh - don't do that

Didn't this car come with a feature that lowered the whole car an inch at a certain speed? That could be in conjuction with other adjustment and I'm full of "I don't know for sure on that" and it might not be a separate module,


T

Response From dave284

Tom I'm in the same boat, theres not much that I know about the ride control system on this one, the sensors looks the same as on a cad. and if the system is intergrated with the engine speed ,thats another kick in the @ss. I wonder if the people that sold the owner the struts would have any info. ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tidbit on this: I test drove one in 1993 brand new (was that first year for this?) with and for a customer and recall that this car lowered 1" at about 50-55 mph (thought that was slow at the time) for reduced wind resistance and may also have had a setting for "firm" vs "norm" handling control (Some T-Birds did) and we did have to go to the nearest interstate to even drive at any speed and dealer allowed us to.

He drove the car. I never noticed the lowering thing and he was a nut and took the sucker up over 100mph and held it there - no problem and I clearly recall with all vents, radio and things off the car was silent inside!!

None-the-less it almost certainly routed vehicle speed thru some control module for this crap. I serviced his cars for years and he didn't buy this one or I'd have known more about the things. For practical purposes cars just don't need to sustain speeds over 80 mph anywhere in the US that I know of so it's kind of stupid and expensive to design them for that for the US market.

Hey - even Kitty doesn't need that kind of speed. She leaves that to her relatives - "the Jaguars"


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I have to plead dunno for sure - never worked on any of those for anything. Is this an air spring or an air bagged strut set up? I just tried to get a pic of what they look like and fell short too?? The air spring should be straight forward and the air struts on at least the Continental set up was catastrophically EXPENSIVE!! These should be the same as most regular springs or struts for replacement. Ones that don't use a coil spring at all drop like a kittie dragging butt whey the blow out - I know that! Perhaps way2old or DanD has a procedure for this or have done them.

Hey - get well soon!

T

1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Eating Fuel

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From Wizardsnapper on 1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Eating Fuel

Hello all... This is my first post here. My mother has a 1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham 5.7 V8 Carb. She bought the car a little over a year ago for $800.00. Since then has has done all the regular Tune-Ups and Oil Changes. She has had the Carb adjusted on it at lest 6 times on it. That and the Timing set has never been replaced. She will go through 2 tanks of gas in a week just driving around the neighborhood shopping. She cant keep affording this. Is there any way to fix the Fuel issue without spending a lot of money, she lives on a disability check. If not I can help pay for the repairs. But please list in detail what has to be done to it and what parts are needed for it.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

Response From Hammer Time

You have a 26 year old car with a carburetor. You can't make robots out of dinosaurs.

First off, the timing should never have to be touched once it's set correctly and the same goes for the carb. The only adjustment is for idle mixture anyways which will have nothing to do with your mileage problem. Unless you plan on spending a ton of money on restoration, It is what it is.

Response From Discretesignals

Needs to go to a shop to be diagnosed.

There is no way for us to tell you what it needs to resolve its problem unless you have some more information.

Look for fuel leaks

Make sure the choke is open all the way when the engine is warmed up

Make sure the carb isn't leaking from the metering wells

Make sure the Foo foo valve isn't full of gas.

Make sure the MC solenoid is operating and the feed back system works.



Wouldn't doubt if the carb is worn out and it needs a new one.
Probably wouldn't hurt to put Mom into a newer car that is fuel injected and gets better fuel economy.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This last carb was a pest. Still expensive for a redone one with high failure rates of those too. Plain vacuum anythings everywhere but make sure two for choke are not leaking meaning they hold vacuum to break open choke and choke heater shuts it off quickly or it will about spill fuel in short trip use not good for it either. Either of the last V8s for Olds were tough but nothing is going to like fuel wash if that is happening,

T

(on edit as I doubted this engine) This only came with a 307 CID = 5.0 Olds engine if gasoline or just 1% were 5.7 diesels which all failed early that I ever knew of. If it was a 5.7 many were converted to a gas engine that really wasn't practical and tons of gasoline specific emission items never changed over basically making them usable but not legal for road use in almost any place without relentless details on the switch back)

Response From Wizardsnapper

The choke never did work on the car. The Timing set was NEVER touched. The Carb. has been adjusted by a repair shop just to see if if could get better millage but it kept getting worse and still is. My mom and I cant afford a newer car, she got this one cheap during tax season with her rebate last year. If I have to replace anything other than the car its self then we are all for it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Those late Quadrajets you needed a two year course in futility to do anything to them and those who could are about done with that crap for actually older ones.

Make sure of what you have for a carb on this. Hope it's one of these............ Champion/Carburetor / Part Number: 10-344 Warranty: 1 YR Application: With U.S. Emission

Notes: O.E.M. #17081253, 17081254, 17082251, 17082253, 17083250, 17083253, 17083553, 17084250, 17084252, 17084253, 17084254, 17084256, 17084258, 17084554, 17085282, 17085554, 17086009..............

The "1708****" numbers would be on the driver's side back near where throttle pivots on side of carb vertically and hard to read. May be all different by now and still workable. If a computerised carb you won't like the price as it will exceed what you paid for this car - rebuilt not even a new one!

T

Response From Wizardsnapper


Those late Quadrajets you needed a two year course in futility to do anything to them and those who could are about done with that crap for actually older ones.




Make sure of what you have for a carb on this. Hope it's one of these............ Champion/Carburetor / Part Number: 10-344 Warranty: 1 YR Application: With U.S. Emission

Notes: O.E.M. #17081253, 17081254, 17082251, 17082253, 17083250, 17083253, 17083553, 17084250, 17084252, 17084253, 17084254, 17084256, 17084258, 17084554, 17085282, 17085554, 17086009..............

The "1708****" numbers would be on the driver's side back near where throttle pivots on side of carb vertically and hard to read. May be all different by now and still workable. If a computerised carb you won't like the price as it will exceed what you paid for this car - rebuilt not even a new one!

T




She has the original Rochester Carb. All facts that I'm giving you have come from her repair shop, I'm just relaying what they told me about it. I'm just looking foe=r a way for her to save a little more on gas. This is all the info I have on the car that I thought was relevant to the problem. I am willing to buy any part needed for it but not at the cost of a newer car. if the Carb needs to be replaced then so be it. I was just trying to get some options here. I'm not upset here but there is some criticism here like I lack info or knowledge. I'm only trying to do the best thing for my mom. any and all help is a big help to her. We just can't afford to buy a new car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In that pic is a Rochester Quadrajet. Shouldn't be a need to toss the whole thing as most rebuilt ones suk and many new ones when whole car was new suked too. Other than that these are remarkable carbs over many years for a wide variety of applications and adjusting them was the nightmare.

The couple things on these that could make it suck up fuel like no tomorrow were an inoperative primary choke pull off seen as brass colored in that particular pic 1/2 way up to the left with a vacuum hose to it. From cold with choke tripped the smaller front upper plate is the choke. To trip that just push throttle and it should snap shut.

Now that's 100% choked which is fine for about 2 seconds and it must "pull off" some right away when engine starts or would gag on fuel. DIY test could just be take the vacuum hose off, push the lever back with finger over where vacuum hose was, let go and it should stay put, then let go and watch it extend.

If just that didn't hold you can buy one of just those called the primary choke pull off. The rear you really can do without as it only works to open choke a tad more for just a minute or two at mid warm up before choke isn't needed for anything with a warm engine.

This would take a whole book to explain and as just said many weren't set exactly right new and that's just one adjustment but the most likely to cause rough running cold and flooding out if not working.

That's something you can check with no tools. Other is just with key on (everything cold) run position feel the top left black housing with one wire going to it get warm and just touch choke and it should go wide open on it's own without the engine running!

Just those two checks would be a wealth of info. These can run quite well. Finding proper help or even a good replacement was tricky then and harder now. Almost all car makers dumped using carbs greatly because it was just getting to hard to make them all perfect for fuel delivery + meet all emissions which fuel injection solved and took out all human adjustment error. Now old, the rubber parts about can't be much good,

T

Response From Wizardsnapper


In that pic is a Rochester Quadrajet. Shouldn't be a need to toss the whole thing as most rebuilt ones suk and many new ones when whole car was new suked too. Other than that these are remarkable carbs over many years for a wide variety of applications and adjusting them was the nightmare.

The couple things on these that could make it suck up fuel like no tomorrow were an inoperative primary choke pull off seen as brass colored in that particular pic 1/2 way up to the left with a vacuum hose to it. From cold with choke tripped the smaller front upper plate is the choke. To trip that just push throttle and it should snap shut.

Now that's 100% choked which is fine for about 2 seconds and it must "pull off" some right away when engine starts or would gag on fuel. DIY test could just be take the vacuum hose off, push the lever back with finger over where vacuum hose was, let go and it should stay put, then let go and watch it extend.

If just that didn't hold you can buy one of just those called the primary choke pull off. The rear you really can do without as it only works to open choke a tad more for just a minute or two at mid warm up before choke isn't needed for anything with a warm engine.

This would take a whole book to explain and as just said many weren't set exactly right new and that's just one adjustment but the most likely to cause rough running cold and flooding out if not working.

That's something you can check with no tools. Other is just with key on (everything cold) run position feel the top left black housing with one wire going to it get warm and just touch choke and it should go wide open on it's own without the engine running!

Just those two checks would be a wealth of info. These can run quite well. Finding proper help or even a good replacement was tricky then and harder now. Almost all car makers dumped using carbs greatly because it was just getting to hard to make them all perfect for fuel delivery + meet all emissions which fuel injection solved and took out all human adjustment error. Now old, the rubber parts about can't be much good,

T


Is it possible to make it Fuel Injected then? I read that for most coversions it would need a computer and some other things but it's a '84 does it have one already? Would the cost be less than buying a newer car?

Response From Discretesignals

You haven't even determined what is wrong with it. We can go through all the guessing, but it needs to be checked out to see what is going on with it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

My reason is this is highest on the list and doesn't cost a dime to check w no tools. If not that we punt. No on the fuel injection. This engine unless all trashed can be made to work fine,

T

Response From nickwarner

It would be worth keeping in mind that even when this was a brand new car in perfect tune it was a fuel hog, especially on short runs in town, stop and go driving. This thing is a big heavy car with an ineffiecent V8 engine and its marginally OK on the highway mileage once you get it up to speed as it should have an overdrive trans and long-legged rear end gears. In the short run, maybe you can get it to work a little bit better but its still going to be a pig at the pump no matter what. Add to that the fact this is a 28 year old car that was made by a brand that hasn't existed for a decade now. Many parts for it are getting harder to find and others are simply not available anymore. But realize that the cost of getting something newer that gets better mileage and has better parts availability would pay for itself based on the fuel savings. As Tom pointed out, the fuel system in this car was a royal pain and not many of the people who knew the right way to work on these are still in the field. So something with fuel injection and newer you can find people who really know what they are doing.

Don't buy a car just because its cheap. If all you can afford is an $800 car, you don't have the money to waste on gassing up a thirsty one.

Response From Discretesignals

It was the emissions system that made the car a frickin nightmare to work on. Vacuum hose city under that hood. Better run a basic check on the engine by doing a compression check and maybe a leak down if you find low compression. Carb isn't going to work right on a worn out engine anyway. Being an 84, if the engine hasn't been rebuilt, it has to be tired.

Response From Hammer Time

And we come full circle back to my first post. It's a 28 year old dinosaur using a carb. Your chances of getting it fine tuned without a $5,000 investment are slim to none.

Response From Discretesignals

I agree HT. It was rated by the EPA to get 14 mpg in the city. That was if everything was working correctly.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

To put this in perspective, I drive a Suburban that gets 9mpg in town as a daily driver. Its big, has all the room in the world and has a V8. I love the thing. It cost me $160 to fill the thing up and I have no plans to buy anything else.

But............

I work full time as a professional technician and crank up overtime like its going out of style. My pay never goes down, it goes up. Its a reward for busting my ass.

If I were getting a measly check once a month that could barely cover my expenses with no way to make that check bigger, the truck would be replaced and I would show some due diligence to the cost of operation of what I drive to make it work with my budget. Or I'd get some good shoes. If you don't have to work, you have all day to get to where you're going. Thats also why busses and cabs and such were made in the first place. A brand new moped that gets 90 mpg is only $1000 brand new. Thats $200 less than the demo derby monster you're pointlessly trying to fix. You don't even need a calculator to do the math on this one. Your mom needs to exercise better judgement in what she buys and it needs to suit her budget beyond the purchase price. She's old enough to know better by now and you should be too.

Living for tax time like its the lottery ticket thats guaranteed makes for poor choices on what you spend that money on. This car proves my point. I've seen plenty of cars like Cavalier and Sunfire or Civic and Corolla that have 4 cylinder engines, get over 30mpg highway and may not be too pretty but are servicable and parts are cheap sell for a grand or less. But remember you get what you pay for and the cheapest car on purchase price isn't the cheapest car in the long run. If you don't have the money to buy something good now, save up and make a smart choice with your money.

I hate to be the dick here, but if you buy a worn out antique that got crappy mileage back when it was new, don't be shocked that the mileage still sucks. Its not a fine wine, it won't get better with age.

Response From Hammer Time

Tom's right. These came with either a 231 V6, 305 (Chevy) or 307 which were both 5.0. The 5.7 was a diesel.

Response From Wizardsnapper


Tom's right. These came with either a 231 V6, 305 (Chevy) or 307 which were both 5.0. The 5.7 was a diesel.



It has this engine: 8 Cylinders Y 5.0L 4BL OHV (found in 99% of 1984 Oldsmobile 88)

Response From Hammer Time

How do you know that?

PS, don't post any links.