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Bilstein
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber Bilstein

P311-3AA7270    W0133-1910795  New

Qty:
$152.17
Bilstein Shock Absorber
  • B6 Performance Monotube
  • with Handling Package
Brand: Bilstein
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Bilstein
1974 Mercury Monterey Shock Absorber Bilstein

P311-478B37B    W0133-1910796  New

Qty:
$153.72
Bilstein Shock Absorber
  • B6 Performance Monotube
Brand: Bilstein
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Mercury Monterey
Bilstein
1975 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber Bilstein

P311-478B37B    W0133-1910796  New

Qty:
$153.72
Bilstein Shock Absorber
  • B6 Performance Monotube
  • w/o Self-Leveling Suspension
Brand: Bilstein
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1975 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Bilstein
2005 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber Bilstein

P311-478B37B    W0133-1910796  New

Qty:
$153.72
Bilstein Shock Absorber
  • B6 Performance Monotube
  • Excluding Self-Leveling
Brand: Bilstein
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Bilstein
1979 Mercury Capri Shock Absorber Bilstein

P311-2FEAAC7    W0133-1912057  New

Qty:
$181.43
Bilstein Shock Absorber
  • B6 Performance Monotube
  • Heavy Duty Mono-tube Gas Shock
Brand: Bilstein
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1979 - Mercury Capri
KYB
2006 Mercury Montego Shock Absorber KYB

P311-2D04D88    W0133-1891745  New

Qty:
$157.90
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Excel-G
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2006 - Mercury Montego FWD
KYB
2001 Mercury Mountaineer Shock Absorber 8 Cyl 5.0L KYB

P311-1EF5C8B    W0133-1618708  New

Qty:
$89.85
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Gas-a-Just
  • w/o Electronically Adjustable Suspension
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Drive Type
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer V - 302 AWD
KYB
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Shock Absorber 8 Cyl 5.0L KYB

P311-1EF5C8B    W0133-1618708  New

Qty:
$89.85
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Excludes Electronically Adjustable Suspension
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Drive Type
1998 - Mercury Mountaineer V - 302 AWD
KYB
2001 Mercury Mountaineer Shock Absorber 8 Cyl 5.0L KYB

P311-3DC4636    W0133-1618500  New

Qty:
$124.41
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Monomax
  • w/o Electronically Adjustable Suspension
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Drive Type
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer V - 302 AWD
KYB
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Shock Absorber 8 Cyl 5.0L KYB

P311-3DC4636    W0133-1618500  New

Qty:
$124.41
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Monomax
  • Except Electronically Adjustable Suspension
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Drive Type
1998 - Mercury Mountaineer V - 302 AWD
KYB
2006 Mercury Montego Shock Absorber KYB

P311-13342A7    W0133-1891698  New

Qty:
$157.90
KYB Shock Absorber
  • Excel-G
Brand: KYB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2006 - Mercury Montego FWD
Monroe
1992 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber Monroe

P311-37E3091    W0133-2038452  New

Qty:
$53.06
Monroe Shock Absorber
  • OESpectrum
Brand: Monroe
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Monroe
2003 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-11E9324    5993  New

Qty:
$35.19
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Recommended OE Application -Specific Replacement
  • Monroe OESpectrum Passenger Car Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Accesorio(s): P01136
    • Bloqueo hidráulico extendido: No
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 12.500
    • Cubre polvo: Yes
    • Descripción del Tipo de Montura Inferior: Buje Con Casquillo - 12mm X 1.11/16"
    • Descripción del Tipo de Montura Superior: Espiga Con Separador - 2.3/8" X 3/8"-16
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 21.250
    • Longitud Extendida: 21.250
    • Lower Mounting Code: Ls74
    • Lower Mounting Description: Loop Bushing & Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.11/16" Sleeve Oal
    • Material del Cubre Polvo: Metal
    • Max Year Covered: 2011
    • Min Year Covered: 2003
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Crown Victoria
    • Most Popular Year: 2003
    • Parts Pack(s): P01136
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Tipo de Montura Inferior: Ls74
    • Tipo de Montura Superior: S4
    • Tope de rebote comprimido: No
    • Tope de rebote extendido: Yes
    • Total Part VIO: 698505
    • Travel Length: 8.750
    • Upper Mounting Code: S4
    • Upper Mounting Description: Stem Mount - 2.3/8" Stem Length X 3/8"-16 Thread Pitch
    • Viaje: 8.750
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Mercury Grand Marquis Rear
KYB
1967 Mercury Marquis Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-07939B7    343149  New

Qty:
$26.27
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • GAS SHOCK FOR CARS AND TRUCKS
  • Recommended OEM Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 12.91
    • Dust Cover Included: Yes
    • Extended Length: 21.57
    • Lower Mount Type: E1
    • REBOUND STOP: No
    • Stroke Length: 8.66
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1967 - Mercury Marquis Rear
KYB
1997 Mercury Mountaineer Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-028D31C    341302  New

Qty:
$34.70
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • GAS SHOCK
  • (Excludes Electronic Adjustable Suspension) Recommended OEM Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 13.58
    • Dust Cover Included: Yes
    • Extended Length: 17.91
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(53.6x78x20)
    • REBOUND STOP: Yes
    • Stroke Length: 4.33
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Mercury Mountaineer Front
KYB
1961 Mercury Monterey Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-0E0A902    343127  New

Qty:
$25.34
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • GAS SHOCK FOR CARS AND TRUCKS
  • Recommended OEM Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 8.66
    • Dust Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length: 13.58
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(46.1x82x0)
    • REBOUND STOP: No
    • Stroke Length: 4.92
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1961 - Mercury Monterey Front
KYB
1995 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-28467EA    344081  New

Qty:
$29.06
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • GAS SHOCK FOR CARS AND TRUCKS
  • Police Car and Taxi Recommended OEM Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.17
    • Dust Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length: 14.09
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(50.4x77x15)
    • REBOUND STOP: Yes
    • Stroke Length: 4.92
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front
KYB
2000 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-28467EA    344081  New

Qty:
$29.06
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • GAS SHOCK FOR CARS AND TRUCKS
  • Police Car and Taxi bushing kit C0522 required with KG5458 and 344081 on Police / Taxi Recommended OEM Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.17
    • Dust Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length: 14.09
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(50.4x77x15)
    • REBOUND STOP: Yes
    • Stroke Length: 4.92
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front
KYB
1979 Mercury Marquis Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-5991F3D    KG4515  New

Qty:
$40.13
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • HIGH PRESSURE MONOTUBE GAS SHOCK
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.65
    • Dust Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length: 14.57
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(51.6x82x20)
    • REBOUND STOP: Yes
    • Stroke Length: 4.92
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Mercury Marquis Front
KYB
1983 Mercury Grand Marquis Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-5991F3D    KG4515  New

Qty:
$40.13
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • HIGH PRESSURE MONOTUBE GAS SHOCK
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade (Excludes Police Car and Taxi)
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • COMPRESSED BUMP STOP: No
    • Compressed Length: 9.65
    • Dust Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length: 14.57
    • Lower Mount Type: E3(51.6x82x20)
    • REBOUND STOP: Yes
    • Stroke Length: 4.92
    • Upper Mount Type: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front

Latest Mercury Repair and Shocks Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

rear

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on rear

!999 Mercury Tracer

I few months ago I noticed that when I'm on a bumpy road the rear of my car feels like it jumps sideways and it just doesnt seem to secure to the road, it also got 4 new tires and it drove normal for a little while but in about a month it wore out the rear tires and is back to the way it was? Could this be a suspension problem?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just bounce the rear up and down like you are checking for shocks. Does one side respond differently than the other? Probably and then you would need to look into new rear shocks/struts. If it uses a sway bar for the rear inspect that as well,

T

Response From way2old

If it wore out new tires in a month, there is probably something bent in the rear suspension or axle. A real close inspection is in order.

01 Mercury Cougar

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From redcougarcar on 01 Mercury Cougar

Hi,
I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 6 cylinder automatic. I started the engine, drove the car around, noticed transmission fluid on the ground, checked the fluid, was all the way up the dipstick, took it for a ride through all the gears, let it run for half hour - 45 mins and the fluid still at the top of the dipstick tube. Goes into gear and shifts fine... I was told that the torque converter or the seal was out on it and that was causing excessive transmission fluid. Not sure if this is problem or not??? Confused?? Any advice or thoughts?
Thanks!
Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd bet more on somehow it got overfilled! It would purge out as it warms and expands and I'm shocked it behaves. Can't be good for it so I'd get the suction pump to remove it to proper level. Just my thoughts on this,

T

Response From redcougarcar

T ~
When the car was running before fluid levels were right on the mark, had a starting problem, wouldn't start for 8 months, got it started, then it started leaking transmission fluid. I haven't added any transmission fluid to it, so I'm not sure how it would have gotten over filled. I can see there is transmission fluid on top of the housing. Could it be the torque converter? or a seal? any other ideas?
Thanks!
Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What I can't understand is if this was from the torque converter which does hold a lot of ATF then I wouldn't think it would move the car! I'm not a total tranny head but have the idea of how they work.

There's quite likely a vent (small mushroom cap maybe) on top of trans that could blow out excess. I've seen that happen from an known overfill before on a totally different car.

Again - I'm still plucking hairs out wondering how it can run/drive ok and really be that full??

I'd still put it back to the correct mark and see what happens. If it slips or doesn't stay engaged don't drive it like that if it will at all. It may decide to keep filling up - dunno.

Some maybees and I'm open to any ideas on this:

* Someone forgot and added fluid - it wouldn't necessarily take all that much over the full mark to go way up for a reading. The dipsticks as you know are marked for pints not quarts and if someone thought it was down 2 pints and put two quarts in it that would account for this.

* A key property of ATF is not to resist foaming. If this can foam up bad that could displace fluid and raise the level. Never saw that happen to this extreme.

* Another: Most automatics use the regular radiator to cool/moderate trans fluid temp. If the heat exchanger inside the radiator messed up it usually puts ATF into coolant but I suppose it's possible for coolant to go into the trans! Antifreeze would sink to the bottom leaving oil/ATF on top for a while but soon would mix to a pink foamy mess or perhaps a brownish - like a milkshake. If that's the case the coolant level would be down and it would show up as a milkshake pretty quickly with some use but not right away. If that happened - hurry and get it fixed and trans all flushed out sooner the better.

~~~~~~~~~~

The torque converter is a large donut - one side spins a fan direct to engine speed at another to be like two table fans - one blowing at the other - one blowing and plugged in the other just catching the breeze sort of thing but in fluid. The second fan drives the trans but can slip like when you come to a stop. If that somehow lost the fluid to play fan action in the car wouldn't move - IMO.

If not one of those I'm at a loss at to why this could be??

T

1997 Mercury Sable - rear wheels "falling off"

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From liquidctv on 1997 Mercury Sable - rear wheels "falling off"

I have a 1997 Mercury Sable sedan FWD, with about 130k, that I was driving last summer. The rear wheels were making whirring and wobbling noises that got progressively worse over the summer. On a whim, I replaced the wheel bearings (sealed units), but this had no effect.

Well, the final straw came when I backed out of a parking space, and the left rear wheel wouldn't turn at all. I had to back out with the wheel rubbing against the pavement.

Whatever is holding up the wheels - shocks, struts - has failed. The car is off the road now, but I would like to fix it in the spring. Just want to know where to start, as I have never worked on a suspension before.

Response From melkinny360

The problem is that certain rear suspension subframe components — which were ..... Ford is recalling almost 700000 Mustang and Taurus and Mercury Sable models .... The recall covers vehicles made between 1997 and March 2001 and may not ..... which could cause vibration or result in the wheel and tire falling off.
***********
melkinny

Response From Hammer Time

The problem is that certain rear suspension subframe components — which were ..... Ford is recalling almost 700000 Mustang and Taurus and Mercury Sable models .... The recall covers vehicles made between 1997 and March 2001 and may not ..... which could cause vibration or result in the wheel and tire falling off.
***********
melkinny

I checked and find no such recall at all. Let's get our facts right before posting stuff like that.

Response From Nathan47

Fix what's broken! But if it needs struts or brake work or whatever just make sure you do it to both sides. If one side is broken the other side will go soon.

Response From liquidctv

Well, I am going to fix both sides. But it was broken anyway, so I don't think driving it made much of a difference. The car is off the road now.

It will roll forwards as before, with a lot of noise. Just wondering what would make the wheels stick. Struts?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You're not going to find the answer to that on the Internet. The car needs to be inspected to find out what happened.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"But it was broken anyway, so I don't think driving it made much of a difference."<<

An accident could have killed someone or more! Never mind the car - get it inspected for why it's doing this and fix it. Good - don't drive it as you said till all is well,

T

Response From Hammer Time

You start but getting a thorough inspection by a competent tech to find out what has happened to it. You already made one serious mistake by continuing to drive it until something broke.

brake problems

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From joshs gurl on brake problems

Plz help!! Front brakes seizing up after about 10 min of driving on a 1998 mercury tracer 2.0 ls. brakes return to normal after letting them cool off. ​ Already replaced break hoses. And breaks do not return at all. Plz help And I already checkd 4. contaminated and defective brake linings. Oh and its not tha break booster. Its the front disc brakes not the rear drums

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hang in there - this could be tricky.

Does the brake pedal have UNUSUALLY little travel before they start braking even from cool/before driven?

Just ONCE but had this problem with NEW master cylinder that wouldn't allow fluid back to the reservior and that's not likely to happen by surprise but was a new faulty part.

Need to consider that BOTH front wheels are doing this so both caliper being frozen is unlikely. Any common item that restricts return flow to master cylinder or a VERY short free play area of master cylinder could do this.

What may be happening is even without using the brakes much - simple engine heat and things warming up, wheel bearings and so forth the fluid expands and would normally return to master cylinder's reservoir but if it can't it CAN apply pressure on the brakes as if you were doing it on purpose. Cooling down the fluid shrinks and they would test fine driving anyone nuts to figure out.

Since you have new fluid hopefully in there from doing the hoses I suggest pushing back on a piston and see it it will at all. If difficult to push back try with the bleeder open a tad and that would indicate caliper itself is ok and the resistance is elsewhere. There is perhaps ABS items, the proportioning/combination valve (never saw one do this) and just line going back to master. If a common line is pinched for some reason that could be an issue.

Gotta find this, it will ruin the front brakes and leave you stranded never mind they may not stop very well when needed!

T

Response From Guest

Tom,
Reviewing this topic, I also had vacuum leak and replaced the booster and master cylinder. This is where my troubles began.

I have a 1994 Chevrolet Z-71. 5.7. I have changed the power booster and master cylinder twice along with the vacuum check valve, ensured all air is bled from the system, changed the front rotor and pads.

Current Problem: When pressing the brake to a quick stop, the pedal remains to the floor and will not release for some time (10 seconds). I sometimes have to turn off engine and the pedal returns to normal position. I contributed this to vacuum but since a new check valve came with each power booster, I am not sure. This system has an isolation dump valve with abs. Thanks for your input

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Pedal remains on floor ~ 10 seconds"

Egad! Basics here - the master cyl and booster if they weren't hooked up (hydraulically) to anything would return the pedal on their own - normally. Maybe not instant but better than that. I'd recheck master and booster.

Thought: Any chance non brake fluid was ever introduced to this system? That would render rubber seal to a sticky bubble gum and be a major problem if that ever happened,

T

Response From Guest

I agree but this is the second master/booster. I even looked at adjustment to the piston rod but according to the manufacturers instructions, "pushing the brake pedal slightly, fluid should begin to flow in the reservoir and it did. Over 2-gallons of Dot 3 have been flushed through the system during this effort. Could the isolation dump valve have an influence on the function. I'd love to have a detailed diagram of the hydraulics

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't have the software with diagrams or any special bleeding procedures. You would do better to make a new thread on this exact vehicle in the subject line and expain the behavior again to get some more exposure on the topic,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks,

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

. I didn't think about that. Thank you VERY much. I -think- ive got this now lol

Broken ball joint caused more damage

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From mercuryman on Broken ball joint caused more damage

I have a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis, and the lower passenger ball joint broke in half, and the car hit the ground hard. I replaced the ball joint, but now I have a screeching noise from that area of the car.

The noise is constant except when I hit a bump, then it stops.
I took the brake shield off thinking that may be rubbing up against brake disk, but that was not it. My friend said I may have ruined the strut/ shock .
Does anyone know what it could be?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That simply is going to need total checking out for what got damaged, a splash shield if damaged replaced and whatever else got wrecked which could be quite extensive. No way I can guess on something like that,

T

Response From mercuryman

I checked out the front end , and the upper ball joint on the side where the lower ball joint broke off is slanted at an angle. The other side is straight.

I think when the lower broke, and control arm smashed the ground , it bent the upper ball joint upward.

Response From nickwarner

you bent the whole control arm, thats why you have the angle. Replace all your ball joints now along with that arm or you will be in a very dangerous and expensive car.

Response From mercuryman

Can I replace the upper ball joint first, and see if that gets rid of the noise. Then replace the control arm too if needed.

Response From Hammer Time

Ball joints don't bend, control arms do.

Response From mercuryman

Should I get the upper control arm with ball joint included, or just replace the control arm?

Response From nickwarner

your lower ball joint was so old and worn out it actually seperated while driving. The one above it and the ones on the other side are just as old. Even if you could get your old ball joint out and into a new control arm you'd destroy it doing it. Replace all 4 and the arm you bent or risk destruction

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'm worried about this sled...........





T

Response From mercuryman

I bought 2 new ball joints , but I will see if I can straighten out the control arm.

Response From Hammer Time

but I will see if I can straighten out the control arm.

Stop with the total nonsense. If you control arm is bent even a tiny bit, it HAS to be replaced

Response From Discretesignals

I'd really like to be there to watch how you straighten out that stamped steel control arm.

Response From mercuryman

I'd really like to be there to watch how you straighten out that stamped steel control arm.

I went on Google, and many red neck mechanics have taken the control arm off their car, and heated it with a torch, and said it wasn't like new , but did work.
I decided to buy brand new with lower ball joint included to save me all the trouble, and with shipping, I was able to find it for $86, I got a Rock solid deal. I am happy now. I may have to get front end alignment now.

Response From Discretesignals

Unless your into metallurgy and understand the properties of different types of metals and what happens to them when they are heated, I recommend you buy a good used or new control arm.

The lower arm is probably tool steel and heating it up will probably make it brittle like glass. There is a reason that body shops replace bent suspension parts. I have never seen a body shop trying to straighten out bent suspension control arms.

edit: Your making a good decision replacing the arm.

Response From mercuryman

Thanks for all the advice. After I repair this, I am getting something newer in a few months.

This Mercury has 250,000 miles, and just about every part has been replaced.

I am going to miss working on my cars, cause the next one will only be a couple years old, and the computer mechanics will do all the work.

Response From Hammer Time

I went on Google, and many red neck mechanics have taken the control arm off their car, and heated it with a torch, and said it wasn't like new , but did work.

That is the most asinine (and dangerous) thing I ever heard. I'm sure you could find people riding on the hoods of cars too. Would you consider that a good idea?

I'm glad you came to your senses.