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So you're saying you had the head rebuilt, installed it, and now the car is losing oil?

Yes, the timing belt broke at 96813 miles, bent all the intake valves we had them and the guides replaced, put everything back together, and now the check engine light flashes and they have had to add sometimes up to 2 quarts of oil at a time, they now have 100637 miles on it

Pull the codes and post them. They don't fix the belt when they should, doubt they took care of it any other way either. Bet this used oil before and they're trying to screw you into giving them a new motor. If no external leaks and head is all good the customer is the only part needing replacement. We've all dealt with them. Good luck.

They've been awarded the coveted Massengill award for being a complete and total douchebag. I have an artist carving it from marble as we speak.

Ah - those are just for decoration

T

Small wonder they are called idiot lights.

That wouldn't be a surprise on a high mileage car when the new head increased the compression. Probably should have thought better about doing that head and just replaced the motor in the first place.

I can smell that situation. Belt was ignored long enough to break so what else on the maintenance was ignored. Lower end may have been marginal before.
Any way to find out how much oil it is using now and trust that info?

Is this the type customer that just spent some bucks and now YOU own everything ever wrong with the car type?

Never mind your technical/mechanical skills you need to be a mind reader as well,

T

Depending on the cost of the reman axles, that would probably be the best way to go. Here the price has come down so much that the price is close either way you do it and changing an axle is less work plus you get 2 new boots & grease.

Changing the boots only is labor intensive and while not real hard there are a few tricks to doing it, so if the prices is good, go with the axles...

Might want to have the battery tested again. Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. No corrosion. When you get it running, check the charging system voltage with a volt meter at the battery terminals. When it is charging it should be around 13.5 volts. Also make sure your belts are in good condition and properly tensioned.

After jumping and starting, the voltage is about 12.77 volts.
I want to try disconnecting the battery while running to see if the alternator keeps it running, but one website said the battery could blow up. Why would it blow if disconnected? Anyway, what do you think. I will wear goggles, even my motorcycle helmet.
What do you think about the alternator? The alternator indicator indicates it is charging.

The alternator isn't charging. You may need to have the alternator tested. There also could be a problem outside the alternator, such as wiring or connectors problems. On the back of the alternator is a large stud where the battery cable connects to. Check voltage at the stud also. Some alternator circuits have fuses, so be sure those fuses are intact.

The battery won't blow up if you disconnect it while the engine is running, but if the alternator is functioning and you disconnect the battery while the engine is running, you'll stand the chance of frying solid state components such as an engine computer. The reason is because the alternator is sensing battery voltage. When you disconnect the battery, the alternator's regulator senses the extreme drop in voltage, so the regulator full fields the alternator. This generates a very large voltage spike into the electrical system. The spike (surge) is what can take out solid state components. The battery acts as buffer against these spikes, but since the battery is disconnected the buffer is non existent. Some modules have protection, but there is no guaranty damage can't be inflicted.

The best tool that you have to check to see if the charging system is operational is the volt meter. 12.77 volts is near battery voltage and isn't enough. Charging system voltage should be in the vicinity of 13.5-14 volts.

Hi discretesignals:
Well, before I read your post I cleaned the posts better. I thought I cleaned them pretty well before. But I finally broke down and paid the $10 for a cleaning kit. I guess my kid put so much pepsi on it over and over that it built up quite a thick layer of corrosion. Then I replaced the cable and it started right away. I tested with the voltmeter and it read about 14.7 volts. Hope that's not to high.
But like the others said, and I admit, I am not that smart with this stuff. I am over 63 years old and haven't worked on engines since our John Deere tractor back in the 60's and our Allis Chalmers which used a magneto. We didn't have to worry about all the high-tech back then.
So anyway, now my pontiac engine light is on all the time. Wonder what I did to it.
One time I did accidentally make a big spark when I touched the terminals between the two cars backwards while using the Pontiac to jump the Hyundai. Trying to hurry, working on Sunday, etc...., well now what?
I checked the Pontiac voltage. It's about 12.5 with the engine off and 14.8 running.
BTW, what voltage is considered over-charging?
Also, curious, but what about amperage? I guess it shouldn't be deadly, but would it blow my little VOM?
Well, I am happy I don't have to take my Hyundai in. A year ago I took it in, asked for a simple fix and they talked me into a whole bunch of stuff. It was Christmas, so I gave them $600 for stuff I could have done. But now the Pontiac could cost me even more. I am just a teacher in a school where my salary has been cut $6000.

You charging voltage is just fine.........................

I wish I could say the same for your truck. You seem to do more damage every time you touch it. Apparently, your idea of cleaning battery terminals was to pour Pepsi over the battery. We aren't in the 60s any more.

Can't use Pepsi. Has to be the real thing....




LMAO,

T

Operating voltage: ..............................

Voltage regulators control the charging voltage that the alternator produces, commonly keeping it between 13.5 and 14.5 V, to protect the electrical components throughout the vehicle

I recleaned the terminals and posts with stuff from the autoparts store. I think I cleaned it better, because it started without jumping. I put on gloves, motorcycle helmet and removed the positive terminal. It kept running. But I replaced the terminals and tested with the voltmeter. It read out 14.42 volts. So now I wonder if the alternator is over-charging.

Ya, the gloves and helmet idea should of tipped me off.

I guess you didn't read what I typed or maybe you didn't understand what I typed.

Maybe I should use pictures. Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running can cook circuit boards or those small tiny electrical components that are on the circuit boards. Those circuit boards are inside the computers that controls the functions of the engine and the transmission and other electrical items throughout the vehicle.

In the picture below are tiny little solid state components. They are designed to operate on low voltages. When you induce a higher than normal voltage into one or more of the components they tend to cook. This higher than normal voltage occurs when disconnecting the battery from a working charging system. Those components are repairable up to a point, but very very expensive and time consuming to diagnose and repair. I guess you are willing to take your chances of seeing if a module has overload protection and if it is functioning properly. Not something I would gamble with.