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FCS Struts
1984 Hyundai Pony Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-19695D7    342549  New

Qty:
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1984 - Hyundai Pony Rear
FCS Struts
2010 Hyundai Azera Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-16F7CF4    341716  New

Qty:
29.16
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Hyundai Azera Rear
FCS Struts
2007 Hyundai Azera Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-40E4232    341603  New

Qty:
25.49
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Hyundai Azera Rear
FCS Struts
2016 Hyundai Accent Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-4D9398C    DT342891  New

Qty:
42.39
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2016 - Hyundai Accent Rear
FCS Struts
2011 Hyundai Accent Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-53C9F9F    341635  New

Qty:
24.28
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2011 - Hyundai Accent GL Rear
FCS Struts
2016 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L FCS Struts - FCS

P311-1A3D9D9    342905  New

Qty:
25.47
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Hyundai Elantra Rear L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1999
FCS Struts
2010 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-0FE9D00    341715  New

Qty:
26.16
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • ; (Excludes Sport Suspension)
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2010 - Hyundai Elantra Blue Rear
FCS Struts
2008 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-0FE9D00    341715  New

Qty:
26.16
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Hyundai Elantra Rear
FCS Struts
2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-511AAC3    342922  New

Qty:
39.10
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Position
2014 - Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD Rear
FCS Struts
2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-57DEE59    342919  New

Qty:
37.93
FCS Struts Shock Absorber  Rear
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2018 - Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD Rear
FCS Struts
2010 Hyundai Tucson Shock Absorber - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-35249BB    346249  New

Qty:
36.69
  • SHOCK ABSORBER
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2010 - Hyundai Tucson AWD Rear
One Stop Solutions
2008 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L One Stop Solutions

P311-0AF35EE    S349085  New

349085

Qty:
One Stop Solutions Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • ASIN: B01fkhflvk
    • Bump Stops Included: No
    • Compressed Length:
      • 13.7
      • 348
    • Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length:
      • 21.34
      • 542
    • Lower Mount Type: Link Fork
    • Rebound Stop Included: Yes
    • Stroke Length:
      • 194
      • 7.64
    • Upper Mount Type: Bolt
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hyundai Elantra Rear L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
One Stop Solutions
2010 Hyundai Elantra Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L One Stop Solutions

P311-0AF35EE    S349085  New

349085

Qty:
One Stop Solutions Shock Absorber  Rear
  • ; Excludes Sport Suspension
  • Product Attributes:
    • ASIN: B01fkhflvk
    • Bump Stops Included: No
    • Compressed Length:
      • 13.7
      • 348
    • Cover Included: No
    • Extended Length:
      • 21.34
      • 542
    • Lower Mount Type: Link Fork
    • Rebound Stop Included: Yes
    • Stroke Length:
      • 194
      • 7.64
    • Upper Mount Type: Bolt
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Hyundai Elantra L Rear L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Sen-Sen
2008 Hyundai Sonata Shock Absorber - Rear 6 Cyl 3.3L Sen-Sen

P311-34DA697    3213-0263  New

70013 , 5614 , 349060

Qty:
32.02
Sen-Sen Shock Absorber  Rear
Brand: Sen-Sen
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hyundai Sonata Sedan FWD Rear V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3342
Unity
2010 Hyundai Accent Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Unity - Shock Absorber

P311-38BB965    259150  New

348002 , 3212-0367 , 70036 , 341635 , NA , 5621

Qty:
34.90
Unity Shock Absorber  Rear
  • ; w/0 in. Lift/Drop;
  • Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Collapsed Length: Oem
    • Extended Length: Oem
    • Shock Stroke: Oem
  • Unity Automotive has over 40 years of experience manufacturing parts in the aftermarket automotive industry. We guarantee a superior quality, specializing in making rock solid auto parts that withstand the test of time. With a true understanding of our marketplace, we have become the industry leader in innovation of aftermarket suspension. Currently offering over 400 unique SKU's, our suspension systems are top of the line products built to OEM specifications. What does this mean to you? Top quality assembly, 100% customer satisfaction guarantee, and installing confidence into your vehicle. Unity has established the infrastructure to meet the ever-evolving demands of our clients. We pride ourselves in our ability to service each and every customer.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Unity
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Hyundai Accent L Rear L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1599
Unity
2012 Hyundai Tucson Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Unity - Shock Absorber

P311-394682A    259920  New

37343 , NA , 346088 , 344657

Qty:
Unity Shock Absorber  Rear
  • ; w/0 in. Lift/Drop; FWD Only
  • Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Collapsed Length: Oem
    • Extended Length: Oem
    • Shock Stroke: Oem
  • Unity Automotive has over 40 years of experience manufacturing parts in the aftermarket automotive industry. We guarantee a superior quality, specializing in making rock solid auto parts that withstand the test of time. With a true understanding of our marketplace, we have become the industry leader in innovation of aftermarket suspension. Currently offering over 400 unique SKU's, our suspension systems are top of the line products built to OEM specifications. What does this mean to you? Top quality assembly, 100% customer satisfaction guarantee, and installing confidence into your vehicle. Unity has established the infrastructure to meet the ever-evolving demands of our clients. We pride ourselves in our ability to service each and every customer.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Unity
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Hyundai Tucson Limited FWD Rear L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
Unity
2015 Hyundai Tucson Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Unity - Shock Absorber

P311-54C42E3    259910  New

344658 , NA , 37341

Qty:
46.28
Unity Shock Absorber  Rear
  • ; w/0 in. Lift/Drop; AWD Only
  • Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Collapsed Length: Oem
    • Extended Length: Oem
    • Shock Stroke: Oem
  • Unity Automotive has over 40 years of experience manufacturing parts in the aftermarket automotive industry. We guarantee a superior quality, specializing in making rock solid auto parts that withstand the test of time. With a true understanding of our marketplace, we have become the industry leader in innovation of aftermarket suspension. Currently offering over 400 unique SKU's, our suspension systems are top of the line products built to OEM specifications. What does this mean to you? Top quality assembly, 100% customer satisfaction guarantee, and installing confidence into your vehicle. Unity has established the infrastructure to meet the ever-evolving demands of our clients. We pride ourselves in our ability to service each and every customer.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Unity
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Hyundai Tucson GLS AWD Rear L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1999

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

07 hyundai accent

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From scottsrepair on 07 hyundai accent

Have a 07 hyundai accent, the timing belt broke and of course it bent valves, now customer says it is using oil, we have replaced the pcv and would like any help

Response From nickwarner

So you're saying you had the head rebuilt, installed it, and now the car is losing oil?

Response From scottsrepair

Yes, the timing belt broke at 96813 miles, bent all the intake valves we had them and the guides replaced, put everything back together, and now the check engine light flashes and they have had to add sometimes up to 2 quarts of oil at a time, they now have 100637 miles on it

Response From nickwarner

Pull the codes and post them. They don't fix the belt when they should, doubt they took care of it any other way either. Bet this used oil before and they're trying to screw you into giving them a new motor. If no external leaks and head is all good the customer is the only part needing replacement. We've all dealt with them. Good luck.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

They have been driving it around for around 4,000 miles with the check engine light flashing? Yikes.

Response From nickwarner

They've been awarded the coveted Massengill award for being a complete and total douchebag. I have an artist carving it from marble as we speak.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Ah - those are just for decoration

T

Response From nickwarner

Small wonder they are called idiot lights.

Response From Hammer Time

That wouldn't be a surprise on a high mileage car when the new head increased the compression. Probably should have thought better about doing that head and just replaced the motor in the first place.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can smell that situation. Belt was ignored long enough to break so what else on the maintenance was ignored. Lower end may have been marginal before.
Any way to find out how much oil it is using now and trust that info?

Is this the type customer that just spent some bucks and now YOU own everything ever wrong with the car type?

Never mind your technical/mechanical skills you need to be a mind reader as well,

T

2002 Hyundai Accent won't start

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From fun value on 2002 Hyundai Accent won't start

It is a 2002 Hyundai Accent, 1.5 or 1.6 L engine. Doesn't start, doesn't even turn over. When I jump from Pontiac (with Pontiac engine off) it either clicks and doesn't start or sometimes it turns over really well and starts right up. I cleaned the battery posts and cables. When I take the Hyundai battery to Walmarts and to Autozone they say the battery is good. After starting with the Pontiac I let it idle for about 1.5 hours. At first I noticed the charge indicator on the dashboard showed no charging. Later I noticed it was charging (needle at about 1/3). Aft.about 1.5 hours I turned it off and immediately tried to restart. It didn't start, didn't even turn over, didn't even click, click, click.
So now what? And also, what should I expect the dealer to charge. They do a $85 diagnostic and if I chose to have them repair it, they refund the $85. Any suggestions on other places. Pepboys is 100 miles away.
Thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

Might want to have the battery tested again. Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. No corrosion. When you get it running, check the charging system voltage with a volt meter at the battery terminals. When it is charging it should be around 13.5 volts. Also make sure your belts are in good condition and properly tensioned.

Response From fun value

After jumping and starting, the voltage is about 12.77 volts.
I want to try disconnecting the battery while running to see if the alternator keeps it running, but one website said the battery could blow up. Why would it blow if disconnected? Anyway, what do you think. I will wear goggles, even my motorcycle helmet.
What do you think about the alternator? The alternator indicator indicates it is charging.

Response From Discretesignals

The alternator isn't charging. You may need to have the alternator tested. There also could be a problem outside the alternator, such as wiring or connectors problems. On the back of the alternator is a large stud where the battery cable connects to. Check voltage at the stud also. Some alternator circuits have fuses, so be sure those fuses are intact.

The battery won't blow up if you disconnect it while the engine is running, but if the alternator is functioning and you disconnect the battery while the engine is running, you'll stand the chance of frying solid state components such as an engine computer. The reason is because the alternator is sensing battery voltage. When you disconnect the battery, the alternator's regulator senses the extreme drop in voltage, so the regulator full fields the alternator. This generates a very large voltage spike into the electrical system. The spike (surge) is what can take out solid state components. The battery acts as buffer against these spikes, but since the battery is disconnected the buffer is non existent. Some modules have protection, but there is no guaranty damage can't be inflicted.

The best tool that you have to check to see if the charging system is operational is the volt meter. 12.77 volts is near battery voltage and isn't enough. Charging system voltage should be in the vicinity of 13.5-14 volts.

Response From fun value

Hi discretesignals:
Well, before I read your post I cleaned the posts better. I thought I cleaned them pretty well before. But I finally broke down and paid the $10 for a cleaning kit. I guess my kid put so much pepsi on it over and over that it built up quite a thick layer of corrosion. Then I replaced the cable and it started right away. I tested with the voltmeter and it read about 14.7 volts. Hope that's not to high.
But like the others said, and I admit, I am not that smart with this stuff. I am over 63 years old and haven't worked on engines since our John Deere tractor back in the 60's and our Allis Chalmers which used a magneto. We didn't have to worry about all the high-tech back then.
So anyway, now my pontiac engine light is on all the time. Wonder what I did to it.
One time I did accidentally make a big spark when I touched the terminals between the two cars backwards while using the Pontiac to jump the Hyundai. Trying to hurry, working on Sunday, etc...., well now what?
I checked the Pontiac voltage. It's about 12.5 with the engine off and 14.8 running.
BTW, what voltage is considered over-charging?
Also, curious, but what about amperage? I guess it shouldn't be deadly, but would it blow my little VOM?
Well, I am happy I don't have to take my Hyundai in. A year ago I took it in, asked for a simple fix and they talked me into a whole bunch of stuff. It was Christmas, so I gave them $600 for stuff I could have done. But now the Pontiac could cost me even more. I am just a teacher in a school where my salary has been cut $6000.

Response From Hammer Time

You charging voltage is just fine.........................

I wish I could say the same for your truck. You seem to do more damage every time you touch it. Apparently, your idea of cleaning battery terminals was to pour Pepsi over the battery. We aren't in the 60s any more.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't use Pepsi. Has to be the real thing....




LMAO,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Operating voltage: ..............................

Voltage regulators control the charging voltage that the alternator produces, commonly keeping it between 13.5 and 14.5 V, to protect the electrical components throughout the vehicle

  • When not replaced, the battery will discharge or over charge (destroying battery), engine will die, CEL will illuminate, charging system light will illuminate, or alternator damage may occur.


  • ***************************************
    14.8? Check or calibrate your VOM. IMO that's an odd voltage to stay at and shouldn't stay at max of range anyway. If verified you can replace just a voltage regulator in most GMs inside alternator. Any doubts on how to do that DON'T!

    T

    Response From fun value

    I recleaned the terminals and posts with stuff from the autoparts store. I think I cleaned it better, because it started without jumping. I put on gloves, motorcycle helmet and removed the positive terminal. It kept running. But I replaced the terminals and tested with the voltmeter. It read out 14.42 volts. So now I wonder if the alternator is over-charging.

    Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer


    I put on gloves, motorcycle helmet and removed the positive terminal. It kept running.


    I guess there are some people out there that really have no business working or cars, before they hurt themselves or the car

    Response From Hammer Time


    Response From Discretesignals

    Ya, the gloves and helmet idea should of tipped me off.

    Response From Discretesignals

    I guess you didn't read what I typed or maybe you didn't understand what I typed.

    Maybe I should use pictures. Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running can cook circuit boards or those small tiny electrical components that are on the circuit boards. Those circuit boards are inside the computers that controls the functions of the engine and the transmission and other electrical items throughout the vehicle.

    In the picture below are tiny little solid state components. They are designed to operate on low voltages. When you induce a higher than normal voltage into one or more of the components they tend to cook. This higher than normal voltage occurs when disconnecting the battery from a working charging system. Those components are repairable up to a point, but very very expensive and time consuming to diagnose and repair. I guess you are willing to take your chances of seeing if a module has overload protection and if it is functioning properly. Not something I would gamble with.



    96 Hyundai CV Joint Replacement

    Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From Nell on 96 Hyundai CV Joint Replacement

    G'day Everyone,

    First time here. I'm going to have to replace both Right & Left CV Joints on 1996 Hyundai Excel. My Partner has a friend who says he can do it, hmm. Can you please help me with the basics that have to be done & roughly how much it would cost DIY compared to replacing the front axle or am I on the wrong track with replacing axle.

    Thanks

    Nell

    Response From Sidom

    Depending on the cost of the reman axles, that would probably be the best way to go. Here the price has come down so much that the price is close either way you do it and changing an axle is less work plus you get 2 new boots & grease.

    Changing the boots only is labor intensive and while not real hard there are a few tricks to doing it, so if the prices is good, go with the axles...

    Response From Nell

    Hi Sidom,

    Thanks for the information, one more thing. Does the condition of shock absorbers affect the CV Joints?


    PLH

    Nell

    Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

    That car should have struts on the frt not shocks.

    It won't affect it directly but a weak strut will allow the frt end to dip more as well as bounce more, so that is more in & out movement on the inner (plunge) joint & boot so indirectly over time I guess it could....

    rattling noise when going over bumps

    Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
    Question From nforsbe on rattling noise when going over bumps

    2012 Hyundai Elantra Touring GLS
    mileage: 66,196
    Sounds like it's coming from rear passenger side.
    Replaced both rear shocks and rear passenger end link. Exhaust isn't loose . Removed everything from trunk. Still having the same rattling noise when going over bumps

    Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    Have you tried disconnecting the rear stabilizer bar links to see if your noise goes away? Could have a bad link.

    Response From nforsbe

    I actually replaced the link I thought was the problem. I will disconnect them both and see what happens.

    battery drain on 2006 Hyundai Tucson

    Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
    Question From kmh914 on battery drain on 2006 Hyundai Tucson

    Hi:

    I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson (4WD, V6) with battery issues. If I don't drive the car for 4-5 days the battery dies. Other Tucson owners (2006 models) have also had this issue. The dealership has done the following:
    1) replaced the radio (it was drawing way to much power when the engine was off) and battery. This didn't solve the problem.
    2) reset "all the codes" (their words) to see if that would help. It didn't.
    3) rechecked to see if there was any other battery drain and they said they couldn't find anything.

    Right now I'm dealing with Hyundai USA to get a buy back. In the meantime, can anyone suggest any other possibility for figuring this problem out?? all the repairs and diagnostics have been free under the warranty, but I'm tempted to take the car to my local garage (great mechanic there) to see if he can find anything.

    One thing I have noticed: If there is no one in the front passenger seat, a 'Passenger Airbag Off' message light comes on. Then when I use the turn signal, this message light flickers faintly in time with the turn signal clicking. As far as I can tell none of the other dashboard lights flicker like this.

    Thanks!

    Response From Annoyed2006

    Thanks for your post!! I am right there with you!

    I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson (4WD, V6) with the same battery drain problems. The first 2 times I brought it in they told me the battery was testing fine (Of course it did after I drove it 20 minutes to get there!).

    I decided to take matters into my own hands!
    I dropped the Tucson off on Friday afternoon and let it sit there all weekend +Monday, Tuesday. When I came to the Dealer with my keys on Tuesday afternoon the battery was so dead the key fob wouldn't even unlock the Car! I said congratulations we have "Duplicated the problem"! Call me when it's fixed...

    Well they called today and told me the battery would not even hold a charge enough to test the drain. They told me that I would need to purchase a New battery for "Only $140"! I immediately got on the phone w/ Hyundai Customer Service and they contacted the Dealer on my behalf.

    Big surprise... the Dealer had a battery available that they could use to test the drain at no cost... Genius!! Glad I thought of it!! After all I'm not an expert... just a 30 year old unemployed single mother!! I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Your responding to a thread that's over a year and a half old. If you have a question, you should start a new thread.

    Response From Double J

    just doing some thinking here.....i would take to a different hyundai dealer for another opinion....
    i worked for for a chevrolet dealer and we were sent all the vehicles that couldn't be repaired by other dealers...
    then and only then if we couldn't fix the concerns they, (gm), would sent out engineers to help......i can say we only had an engineer come out once for something we had trouble with (water leak ,cavalier convertible..jeez...who didn't..lol..

    i know at gm we would have times where there wouldn't be an electrical draw then something would intermittently stick or go haywire and cause a draw.......these things can sometimes be a nightmare to find....

    just for kicks...what have the others had done...and are theirs fixed????

    we also had a technical asst center to call and document concerns and get tech help from....they sometimes would have other cases on file from dealers around the country and offer those fixes...
    if all else fails .....we did have times when gm had to buy back....lemon laws....
    good luck

    Response From kmh914

    Hi:

    I've tried to find out if other owners with this problem had it resolved, but so far no luck. Most of us have gone round and round on this issue! On another site I read that the 2006 model has "bad alternator charging capability". Is that something that could be fixed or upgraded?

    Here's a link to a dead-battery protection device I found when I was Googling battery info:
    http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/switches/PS12Vauto.html

    Since there's a drain somewhere I thought this item might be something to look into.

    I think I will take it to another dealership for them to look at.

    Thanks for the advice!

    Karin

    Response From Double J

    any device that would help is always worth looking into....BUT>>>>> i wouldn't install any aftermarket device on the vehicle especially now that you might go into litigation/lemon law stuff.....don't jeopardize anything....
    i know the first thing gm tech asst and engineers would ask of is when trying to trouble shoot a concern like this
    is "has the vehicle been modified in any way"...."any aftermarket devices on the vehicle...including alarms/remote starters...etc" because sometimes it can turn out that its not a defect in the vehicle but a defect with the device and /or installation.....seen many incorrectly wired in...

    just my thoughts.....good luck to you.....hey.....post back with results.............

    Response From kmh914

    Hi Jim:

    I'm still waiting for the Huyndai rep to contact me; called them today again to tell them to get a move on, since when I went out this morning the car was a little hesitant to start, just like the battery was getting ready to die...again...sigh...

    So I drove it to the local Auto Max and had the battery and alternator tested. The tech said that the battery was definitely not charging all the way. Also, he said that although the alternator was reading as ok, it was running a little high. Normal should be 1.6 amps/12.4 volts, and it was 2 amps/14.4 volts.

    Maybe it needs a new alternator anyway??

    I'll keep you posted!

    Thanks!

    Response From way2old

    The guy told you wrong. If an alternator is charging properly, it will have 14 +or - 1/2 volt. The amperage will vary as to how discharged the battery is. The less charge in the battery, the higher the amperage will be.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Agree with way2old - alternator is fine. What's the deal with this car? Are you going after the buyback or do you want to keep it?

    A drain that takes out a battery in 4-5 days is still slow but should be able to isolate. This battery should be replaced. Taking a regular (should be) car battery to dead several times will destroy their reserve. A 2006 could have a battery made in 2005 - check on that. Look at the door jam to see when it was built.

    I know of just one Lemon Law buy back with a friend. Car needed to be jumped right in front of him when brand new and blew more major items right away than I've ever heard of. It was still a total PITA but he did settle - minus a chunk for the miles he did manage out of it which wasn't much!

    T

    Response From kmh914

    Hi:

    I'd like to get a buy-back, or at least trade-in assistance (full value of what I paid for the car) because I want a 2008 Tucson.

    The battery was replaced in early 2007, along with a new radio (drawing too much power).

    The Huyndai dealership has twice checked it for all possible drains (they say) and can't find anything (they say!). Would a deep-cycling battery, like the Sears platinum diehard (recommended by a friend) help solve this problem?

    Karin

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    If you are going for a buyback I wouldn't touch the car except for going to another dealer who might fix this problem. The now just a year old battery has still had too much thrown at it. From what you are saying that it's dead to the point of not starting in 4-5 days is draining it about half way down every 2nd day and that's a lot of deep cycling on this. There are batteries made just for that and say so in the sales pitch. These are mostly for use in battery powered devices and frequently in marine uses.

    Even those need to be recharged again as none of the "wet" batteries I know of tolerate freezing (if that includes your use) or staying left dead for extended times. Perhaps if you did get a new battery on your own that was lots more powerful and more reserve it would effectively solve the problem or rather cover it up.

    Where so you stand with the buyback? I bet at this point you'll be real disappointed and they'll charge you so much for the time and miles it has behaved it would be just like trading in for a new one. If this exact car is known for this then I think Hyundai knows it.

    What's with the air bag light? Did that get resolved? That's a real issue and if that can be seen by them they should be climbing all over this car to fix that.

    By chance - do you park at a high angle or put something on the passenger's seat routinely? That could explain a lot of this!

    T

    Response From kmh914

    Hi:

    The problem with the Passenger Airbag Off light is that when it's on it flickers slightly in time with the turn signal clicker; I think the airbag sensor is working properly because when I have a passenger the light turns off and when I don't it comes on. The fact that it flickers when I use the turn signal is what's making me think there may be a short somewhere in that area that might be causing the drain?

    So far all the checks have been done at my dealer for free, but I'm really tempted to take the Tucson to my local car mechanic for his opinion. He's done great diagnostic work on my other car and my car-savvy guy friends all think he's really good.

    Bet you're right about the buy-back...but even some trade-in assistance would be fine. When I was googling cars with AWD this weekend I saw an X-type Jaguar...drool...

    All the battery info that I've learned on this forum is really helpful!! You guys are great!

    Response From kmh914

    UPDATE!!

    Just was checking on another Tucson site and found this post:

    http://tucsondrivers.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2363&p=21812#p21812

    The guy had my same exact problem (dead battery; dealership said radio was bad, new radio, still had a dead battery) and it turned out that the 'new' radio Hyundai put in was a remanufactured radio with the same faulty interior component. His dealership pulled it out and had the interior component replaced. I've emailed him for the specifics on this.

    Maybe this is what's going on!!

    Response From Double J Top Rated Answer


    Is it me or what...i clicked on,it says "this requested topic does not exist"

    Response From Tom Greenleaf


    It went up in flames!

    T

    Response From way2old

    Pyromanics

    Response From way2old

    Nope. A deep cycling battery will just allow you to charge it up more times than a regular battery. The current draw will still be there and will still run the battery down.