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Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Shocks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including KYB, Monroe
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Chevrolet Replacement Shocks Parts
KYB
1966 Chevrolet Caprice Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-5991F3D    KG4515  New

Qty:
$40.13
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 9.65
    • Cover: No
    • Extended Length (in): 14.57
    • Lower Mount: E3(51.6x82x20)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.92
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1966 - Chevrolet Caprice Front
KYB
1991 Chevrolet Caprice Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-5991F3D    KG4515  New

Qty:
$40.13
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade (Excludes Police Car and Taxi)
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 9.65
    • Cover: No
    • Extended Length (in): 14.57
    • Lower Mount: E3(51.6x82x20)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.92
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Chevrolet Caprice Front
KYB
1990 Chevrolet Caprice Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-12B7A2D    KG5458  New

Qty:
$42.91
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade Police Car and Taxi
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 9.65
    • Cover: No
    • Extended Length (in): 14.25
    • Lower Mount: E3(50.4x82x15)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.61
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Chevrolet Caprice Front
KYB
1996 Chevrolet Astro Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-12B7A2D    KG5458  New

Qty:
$42.91
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Recommended OE Replacement
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 9.65
    • Cover: No
    • Extended Length (in): 14.25
    • Lower Mount: E3(50.4x82x15)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.61
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1996 - Chevrolet Astro RWD Front
KYB
1990 Chevrolet Astro Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-12B7A2D    KG5458  New

Qty:
$42.91
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 9.65
    • Cover: No
    • Extended Length (in): 14.25
    • Lower Mount: E3(50.4x82x15)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.61
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1990 - Chevrolet Astro RWD Front
Monroe
2002 Chevrolet Trailblazer Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-0F749EF    37241  New

Qty:
$42.23
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe OESpectrum Light Truck Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 14.560
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 23.070
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.3/4 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2009
    • Min Year Covered: 2002
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Trailblazer
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 2052298
    • Travel Length: 8.510
    • Upper Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 12mm Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Chevrolet Trailblazer Rear
KYB
2005 Chevrolet Cobalt Shock Absorber - Rear 4 Cyl 2.2L KYB

P311-12AFA1F    349043  New

Qty:
$32.37
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 10.59
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 16
    • Lower Mount: E2(14x40)
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 5.41
    • Upper Mount: E2(12x48)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - Chevrolet Cobalt L 2198 134 Rear
KYB
1968 Chevrolet Camaro Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-4A31F4C    KG5521  New

Qty:
$43.20
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade with Multi Leaf Spring
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 12.32
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 20.08
    • Lower Mount: E1
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 7.76
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1968 - Chevrolet Camaro Rear
KYB
1992 Chevrolet S10 Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-524CED4    344041  New

Qty:
$29.63
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • Recommended OE Replacement
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.09
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.6x41)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 9.84
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x30)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1992 - Chevrolet S10 RWD Rear
KYB
1999 Chevrolet S10 Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-524CED4    344041  New

Qty:
$29.63
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.09
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.6x41)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 9.84
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x30)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position Submodel
1999 - Chevrolet S10 RWD Rear Base
KYB
1995 Chevrolet S10 Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-524CED4    344041  New

Qty:
$29.63
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • (Excludes ZR2 Wide Stance Package)
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.09
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.6x41)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 9.84
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x30)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1995 - Chevrolet S10 4WD Rear
KYB
1987 Chevrolet LLV Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-524CED4    344041  New

Qty:
$29.63
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Gas Shock
  • Model by Grumman
  • Excel-G
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 14.09
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 23.94
    • Lower Mount: E2(14.6x41)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 9.84
    • Upper Mount: E3(61.6x87x30)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Chevrolet LLV Rear
KYB
1980 Chevrolet LUV Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-09DA37E    KG5446  New

Qty:
$46.02
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 8.27
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 12.4
    • Lower Mount: E2(12x32)
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 4.13
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1980 - Chevrolet LUV RWD Front
Monroe
1996 Chevrolet Express 2500 Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-1445B83    34763  New

Qty:
$39.07
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe Gas-Magnum Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 14.625
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 23.875
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 9/16 Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2015
    • Min Year Covered: 1992
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Express 3500
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 1957659
    • Travel Length: 9.250
    • Upper Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chevrolet Express 2500 Rear
Monroe
1996 Chevrolet Express 3500 Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-1445B83    34763  New

Qty:
$39.07
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • with Single Rear Wheels; Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe Gas-Magnum Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 14.625
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 23.875
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 9/16 Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2015
    • Min Year Covered: 1992
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Express 3500
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 1957659
    • Travel Length: 9.250
    • Upper Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chevrolet Express 3500 Rear
Monroe
1992 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban Shock Absorber - Rear Monroe

P311-1445B83    34763  New

Qty:
$39.07
Monroe Shock Absorber  Rear
  • w/o Z71 Off Road Package; Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Monroe Gas-Magnum Shock Absorber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Compressed Length: 14.625
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield: Yes
    • Dust Shield Material: Metal
    • Extended Bumper Stop: Yes
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 23.875
    • Lower Mounting Code: Loop Bushing Sleeve Mount - 9/16 Sleeve Id X 1.5/8 Sleeve Oal
    • Max Year Covered: 2015
    • Min Year Covered: 1992
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Express 3500
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 1957659
    • Travel Length: 9.250
    • Upper Mounting Code: Cross Pin Mount - Closed Ended, 5/16 Hole Id (both Ends) X 2.7/8 Pin Length (hole Center To Center)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Chevrolet K1500 Suburban Rear
KYB
1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Shock Absorber - Rear KYB

P311-30477D6    KG5522  New

Qty:
$40.58
KYB Shock Absorber  Rear
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock for Cars and Trucks
  • Monotube Performance Upgrade
  • Gas-a-Just
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 13.03
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 21.3
    • Lower Mount: E1
    • Rebound Stop: No
    • Stroke (in): 8.27
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1955 - Chevrolet Bel Air Rear
KYB
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-0249252    565067  New

Qty:
$63.48
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Maximum Monotube Performance Upgrade Excludes Electronic and Premium Smooth ride Suspension
  • MonoMax
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 10.83
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 14.92
    • Lower Mount: Special
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.09
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 RWD Front
KYB
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-0249252    565067  New

Qty:
$63.48
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Maximum Monotube Performance Upgrade (Excludes Premium Smooth Ride Suspension) Standard Non-Lifted Suspensions
  • MonoMax
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 10.83
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 14.92
    • Lower Mount: Special
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.09
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 4WD Front
KYB
2001 Chevrolet Tahoe Shock Absorber - Front KYB

P311-0249252    565067  New

Qty:
$63.48
KYB Shock Absorber  Front
  • High Pressure Monotube Gas Shock
  • Maximum Monotube Performance Upgrade (Excludes Z55 Autoride Suspension or Premium Smooth Ride Suspension )
  • MonoMax
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bump Stop: No
    • Compressed Length (in): 10.83
    • Cover: Yes
    • Extended Length (in): 14.92
    • Lower Mount: Special
    • Rebound Stop: Yes
    • Stroke (in): 4.09
    • Upper Mount: S1
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: KYB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Tahoe RWD Front

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Shocks Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

heater/ac door location needed

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jack frausto on heater/ac door location needed

Location of the heater/ac door on a 1989 chevrolet 1500 4x4 5.7l. The heater core is not blocked. I changed the therm and the input hose is warm while the output is cool. So I need to find out the location of the door to open or close to pass this hot air. I live in Wisconsin and a snow storm is to be here again for christmas.

Response From steve01832

Hi Jack. Let the engine get to normal operating temperature. Then grab the heater hoses. If they are both hot, the core has good circulation through it. If one hose is hot and the other is cold, the core is restricted and needs to be replaced.

Steve

Response From re-tired

Item #9 is the blend door actuator . Remove it and carefully turn the shaft with pliers ,clockwise and then counter clockwise with eng warmed up and blower on. If you feel heat the actuator is bad .

Response From jack frausto

Ok the only question i now have is do I have to remove the dash to remove or check? I also have replaced the heater core and still no heat. I have taken the truck into a local mechanic who mainly works on engine and trany issues. He told me that he looked at the door and was working properly and has no idea what may be the issue with everything that I have replaced and checked. So now I am still back to square one. I have let the truck run and adjust the heater while the truck is running. From cold to hot, and still no heat. I need the truck to tell me what is wrong so I can fix it and move on to the other issues it has.
The truck also heaitates when I accelerate then catches and takes off. This could be a separate issue, but I was told that the coolant temp sensor is the reson the truck is hesitating. Just wondering if these issues are separate or could have something to do with each other?

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

How did the mechaic Look at the door ? You cannot see the door operate from outside . THe actuator may be running , you can put your hand on it and feel in hum, but the shaft may be broken (it does happen). The only way to tell for sure is to take the actuator off and manually turn the door fom stop to stop. The link I sent shows where the actuator is .You do not need to remove the case to remove the actuator . The best way to solve a problem is to elminate one possible cause at a time . This should be one you things to check with own eyes .

Response From jack frausto

yeah i removed the accuator and i still have no heat. when i closed the door it only switched the air flow from heater to vent, not only that, but i tried to get it to defrost just kept blowing through vent.

Is there a coolant sensor and if so how do u remove and replace?

98 K3500 won:t fire

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From maglisn on 98 K3500 won:t fire

98 K3500 Chevrolet, 7.4L. installed rebuilt 7.4L, can"t get spark at plugs. Checked all grounds, have power to coil. Scan tool shows trouble code p0336.

Response From Hammer Time

That's a crank sensor code. You likely don't have any injector pulse either. You'll have to troubleshoot the crank sensor circuit to determine what the problem is. Make sure you didn't bend the pins over in the plug when you plugged it in.

Response From maglisn

crank sensor has power to the pink wire, Trying to find out what the values of the other 2 wires. The pins are good.

Response From Discretesignals

Pink is 12 volts with key on
Purple is sensor ground and will have less than 0.1 volts with key on while back probing connector.
Yellow is sensor signal and should have 0-12 volts while back probing the connector and cranking the engine. If your using a volt meter the voltage is going to be averaged out depending on cranking speed. You can also turn the crank by hand to see the true 0 and 12 volt signal on a volt meter. HT is correct that an o scope is the best tool for viewing hall effect sensor signals.

Response From DanD

Just a thought here; but was the crank sensor reluctor ring installed when the timing cover went on?



It has happened to me when the machine shop missed it when they did a rebuild on a 4.3lt. Cost them a second timing cover and a whole bunch of labour to diagnose and then install the reluctor ring. LOL
Dan.

Response From maglisn

f
Found the problem, Crank sensor air gap was too wide. Thanks for all the help.

Response From DanD

What the reluctor on the work bench to wide an air gap???

Just joking; glad you found the problem.

Dan.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer


What the reluctor on the work bench to wide an air gap???


Thats always such a crappy feeling......Got it done, cleaning your hands with a rag, getting ready to fire it up, do your final checks, drive it and your done. Only to walk over and see _________ sitting there on your tool box......

Response From Hammer Time

That really doesn't tell you a whole lot. The correct way to do this is with a lab scope. You need to determine the integrity of the other 2 wires back to the PCM and be able to read the signal where they connect to the PCM.

chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From someguy214 on chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

2002
Chevrolet
trailblazer
4.2 L vortec iL6 24valve
115,000 miles
when leaving work with temps below 0 I started my trailblazer and let it sit for say 2 min ( I used my remote start so it was running for a little bit before I got to it.) got in and checked the gauges as usual when its below 0 and they looked fine. backed out and heard/felt a bang. thought I might have hit the car next to me but I was 5 feet away from it. figured the noise was ice falling off from underneath that I ran over.

got to the first red light I felt a vibration in the gas peddle, which is normal in the cold when I start driving at first. gauges still fine.

got to another light about a mile down the road, the vibration in the gas peddle got my attention and I turned down my heat and heard this awful noise coming from the engine. gauges still normal.

this is not my video or car but this is the noise it makes. however when mine makes this noise it does not seem to be as consistent in timing, it's more random. it is also louder, I got home and my parents came outside to see what in the world was happening.

link deleted ........................ not allowed FORUM RULES

while driving I noticed at certain rpms (low ones seeing as how I didn't want to go higher) the noise would sometimes slow and stop then return as I left off the gas. no change in engine performance otherwise. exhaust sounds the same.

here are the things that have already been replaced / cleaned in the engine:

replaced:
belt tensioner pulley
belt tensioner (bearing on the other side)
went through 3 belts
6 sparks plugs (bosch platinum 4 pin)
oil cooler lines
power steering lines
air intake (by choice, it gives better gas millage)

cleaned:
throttle body
air intake
fuel injectors ( by local shop )

115,000 miles

the video says its a bad rod bearing but I like to believe its not haha.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.


I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.


What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.


The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.


Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.


Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.


This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

Response From someguy214

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.


I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.


posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.


also thank you for the responses so far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.


* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.


* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.


? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


T

Response From kev2

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

Response From DanD

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.

Dan.

Response From someguy214

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.


here is some info you guys wanted:


K&N cold air intake


I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel


the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.


no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.


I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.


They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.


That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.


If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


T

Response From someguy214

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan


caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.


Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.


? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


T

Response From Hammer Time

That's a very expensive electronic fan clutch.

Response From someguy214

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.


fan is fine

Response From kev2

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

Response From Hammer Time

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Response From Hammer Time

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

Holden Astra 2002 Timing Belt replacement and Vibrating Breaks

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Question From afmamoon on Holden Astra 2002 Timing Belt replacement and Vibrating Breaks

Hi Guys,

I have recently bought my first car in Australia. Model details are as below.

Year : 2002
Make : Holden
Model : Astra
Engine Size : 1.8
Kilometers : 137,000

The previous owner had not changed the timing belt so I thought that I might change it now before something really bad happens to the car. As the parts are very costly in the market so I am thinking of buying the Timing Belt Kit and Water pump from ebay.

If these Gates automotive parts are reliable ?
(links not allowed)

Secondly breaks are vibrating and break grip on discs is not so good. What possibly could be a problem?

Also how much would be the labor cost to replace the timing belt and solving the breaks issue ?

Rgds,

Fraz

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Gates" IMO is generally known as a good name brand. Any can spin off cheaper stuff as well.


Brakes (break is like taking a coffee break sport - just busting you) plain need all to be thoroughly checked. Vibration is usually warped and or problems with rotors or drums if used. This car not sold in the US or Canada TMK where most regulars are from,


T

Response From afmamoon Top Rated Answer

Hi,

Thanks for you reply.

You might already be knowning it that HOLDEN is an Australian Company owned by GM Motors and is actually a Chevrolet. So we have Holden Caprice in Australia which is actually a Chevrolet Caprice.
Other names for these car which might also exist in USA or Canada are Chevrolet Astra, Opel Optima Vauxhall Astra or something like that.

Any suggestions about the Break Pads or Discs. Which vendor is trusted one ?

Regards,

Fraz

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just "owned by GM" doesn't mean much for export markets. Specs for equipment, parts meeting a standard OE or aftermarket is unknown to me place by place.


If doing things yourself I'd ask locally where and what names techs like best. DS's point on getting parts on line does scare me anyway. I would rather see it in hand at a counter and pay more personally,


T

Response From nickwarner

A lot of shops won't even install parts bought by the customer. I've had a few people get the cheapest junk out there for parts and then get mad when I refuse to install those parts.

While Holden is a GM subsidiary, they are building cars for your market and tend to use many different parts from the american version. Chevy has only within the last year started making the Caprice again, and its a police-only car. You guys have been getting one for a while though.

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think it is wise to buy a timing belt kit and water pump off ebay for the simple fact you have no recourse if something goes wrong. Another thing to consider is if you have a shop perform the labor with your ebay bought parts, they won't warranty the labor if something goes wrong with the parts and causes major engine damage. You'd be left holding the bag.

This is a US based website and we don't have any service or labor time info on your vehicle. Call around shops in your area to get a general estimate.

Oil Leak on 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi

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Question From timdaniel on Oil Leak on 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi

For a 2000 Chevrolet Metro LSi, 4 cylinder, 3-speed automatic transmission, 1.3 liters.

So I have put in UV dye into the engine and watched with a UV light to see where oil is leaking from, as it is coming out about 1 drop every 30 seconds while the engine is running. After doing this, I noticed it was coming from this sort of electrical connector that is between the oil filter and the exhaust manifold. I would call it by name but I don't know what it is called, or why there is oil coming from it. It does have a hexigonal shape, so I assume it can be loosened or tightened with a wrench. Could anyone please shed some light on this? I have some pictures here hosted on my google drive:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bwtjzvm7qxfIVzdVdkRRWW53T2M&usp=sharing

Response From timdaniel

Just wanted to put an update for all those who might be interested. The repairs were successful.

See, I had done the crankshaft oil seal about a year ago, and I believe I did not put it in all the way so thing behind the harmonic balancer basically grinded and shaved the seal until it was leaking. This time I did follow the book and used a large socket to tap it into the hole and it is not leaking, not one drop. Also the oil pressure switch was indeed leaking quite a bit. This may have been because I noticed it leaking once and tried to loosen it or move it because I did not know what it was, and when I did that, I believe I made it leak. It was very confusing because the oil goes everywhere so it is hard to pinpoint exactly where it was coming from, but if your car is leaking from some unknown location, I recommend that you go and buy some ultra violet dye, and a ultra violet light which you can buy for about $10 cheaper at Target or Walmart by buying it in the pet department, as it works great for also finding pee stains on the floor. Putting that in the engine and using the light showed right away what the problems were. I also noticed a few drops coming from the valve cover seal and so I redid that and it is now not leaking at all and it has been a week.

So anyways thank you guys for helping me out. God bless.

Response From Hammer Time

The dye should be a very last resort for only very hard to locate leaks. A substantial oil leak will spread that stuff all over the place, including your driveway. It will hinder any future attempts to locate oil or even air conditioning leaks. Once it's all over the motor, there is no getting it off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Agree - I don't find dye helpful at all for automotive use - even A/C not this issue.
OP: Just a warning on oil leak at harmonic balancer: A balancer is two rings of metal w rubber as a shock in between that will slip or up to wobble and fall off not tolerant of oil for long. Any vehicle failures have been rare but oil was the most likely cause IMO,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Couldn't make your pics show but doesn't matter.
What you seem to have described is an oil pressure sender and they do leak thru them without being loose at all. Frequently just a special socket and a new one screws right in where old one came out.
Watch out. That 30 second drop of oil can flood out with no notice so you have your warning to be sure, name the part and replace it like yesterday!


T

Response From timdaniel

Thanks guys. Now does it have to be a special socket or can I use an adjustable wrench?

Response From Hammer Time

You're never going to get that out with an adjustable wrench. In fact if you intend to do any more work on your car, throw that wrench away. All it can do is destroy parts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not going to search out the cost of the socket but should be under $10 bucks. They fit the switches without breaking them - who cares to get one out but not the new one going in. It's also one place generally allowed to use Teflon thread tape precisely and only on threads or what old pharts like me call thread sealer by Permatex, brush in cap again just on threads.
Your engine is at stake over this so if not sure how to this it's a while you wait job by any decent tech unless unusually hard to get at. Check for leaks like you would for a drain plug for oil as matter of good practice,


T

Response From timdaniel

Yes, you were right. However, the autoparts stores I went to (Pep Boys and OReilly's) both did not carry the size for the oil pressure sensor switch. But I went home and found out it was exactly a 15/16 socket. So, I also did not have a long one of those but I went to an Autozone and found one for 15/16. It is not leaking whatsoever from there now. However, it is still leaking from the crankshaft oil seal and the oil pump seal it looks like. So that is what I will work on now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't say they are all the same 15/16, think deep 12pt with a cut out so you don't bust the new switches. I have the right tools or even now would go get THE correct one as those if broken are a powered oil leak meaning you are pumping oil out as in gallons per minute.
Now if you think you have other leaks with one leaking as fast as that it also spilled so wipe area off without hosing down your engine just dry clean areas suspect and watch for them to have oil return actively or again and again keep checking.
It might be all done leaking but take a while to look just dirty and normal or not.
IMO and experience if you really need either crank seal it could be an early warning engine is wearing out via excessive blow-by pushing oil mist out of a front one and under pressure to most rear ones.
Rear main seals will put out as little as a drop every day, two or almost never from new to lube them, fronts don't show it.
Keep an eye out for any engine in your care as nothing is faster to kill an engine than running out of oil PRESSURE if by the level or not pumping doesn't matter it will quickly die so check it's level on a schedule by dipstick no more waiting for any warning lights.
Don't misunderstand oil or any warnings on dash. Red oil lights mean it's too late not time to check it. No dash indicator light is that good to tell you it's time just to simply add oil. Junkyards are full of those cars,


T

Response From timdaniel

No, it is not "exactly" a 15/16, but it did the job. I must say that it was pretty scary because it felt very tight going in. This was probably due to the fact that the thread was threaded with some kind of teflon it looked like. I tightened it up until I felt like it was starting to become more difficult, and then stopped.

So about the leaking though. I have had a leak at the rear main seal too. I put in some Bar's Rear Main Seal repair and that seems to have stopped that for now.

As for the crank shaft seal, I did the following to see if it was leaking:

1) Before all this I went to Target and bought a "spot detector" which is a UV light, and cheaper than what they sell it for at the auto parts stores. Then I got some UV dye from o'reilly's and put that in. That made the oil fluorescent. That was how I noticed that the oil pressure sender switch was in fact leaking.

2) Before actually putting in the UV dye, I did spray quite a bit of engine degreaser and clean up the engine as much as I could. I used a can and a half to be exact. I cleaned up all the spots that were really oily.

3) After replacing the oil pressure sender switch, I then noticed that the car was still leaking, but not from the oil pressure sender switch. That was nice and dry. It was coming from somewhere behind the timing cover. So,

4) I removed the drive belts, pullies, etc, and then the timing cover. I then sprayed all in there with engine degreaser and tried to clean it up as best as I could. Then I put the alternator belt, water pump and harmonic balancer back on and ran the engine with it all together. I watched as I noticed that no oil was coming from the cam shaft at all, except for a smiggen around the cam shaft and the valve cover, which was not much at all.

The crank shaft seal however, seemed to be spitting or spraying oil. Not a lot, but over time, it would easily form drops and drip. Not nearly as fast as the oil pressure sender switch, but pretty fast. I then determined that I would change the crank shaft front seal, as well as the fuel pump seal, because they both come in a kit for only $7.00.

P.S. I do always check the oil. I always keep it full. I don't drive that much but, when I do, I check the oil before I go. I am paranoid of anything I work on I guess. But there is always enough oil to be driven, and I always check it after it has sat for a long time, not right after driving like when you pull into the gas station.

Please shed any knowledge you might have, as I would appreciate it. Thank you again.

Response From Hammer Time

I must say that it was pretty scary because it felt very tight going in. This was probably due to the fact that the thread was threaded with some kind of teflon it looked like. I tightened it up until I felt like it was starting to become more difficult, and then stopped.

The thread is tapered pipe thread. that's why it get tighter as it goes in.

Response From timdaniel

On the actual switch though, should the thing be pressed up against the engine? What I mean is should it go until it cannot turn at all?

Response From Hammer Time

No, just enough to be tight enough so it won't leak, just like tightening a pipe into a fitting.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - The damn switches use a special socket not just what might work. You could do that with an assortment of extractors too or possibly Vice-Grips of assorted types. The switch is sensitive so the wrong way or tool it might be torqued on incorrectly and blow out if you messed it up installing the new one, forget the old one as it's going in the trash anyway.


" I put in some Bar's Rear Main Seal repair and that seems to have stopped that for now."


Ya - that shows exactly what you DON'T KNOW! Or perhaps what you do know which is enough to get in more trouble.


Not sure why I'm bothering but you do understand how and engine uses oil as a bearing and lube itself? I know you don't. There are no roller bearings commonly used any engine so all parts are riding on the thinnest film of oil if perfect there's zero or so close to that there's never metal to metal contact or and engine wouldn't last a whole minute or much longer never minds years and many thousands of miles.
The wear on the crankshaft allows it to move too much from wear. That up down wear beats up seals so the can't last long.
An engine is only new once and made so precisely the bit that bore one only last a few times and new ones used. You can't take many parts out of one and put them in another the same day it was made never mind now.
Your engine is worn - they do that greatly over miles, conditions and how well lubed. Since you said you are cheap you probably think saving a buck on types or brands of oil doesn't matter too.
Bad luck happens to but if all was just right there's almost no wearing out a well made engine from new with care mind you.
Finding inordinate leaks us done assorted ways, UV dyes just one.
Already said now that the machine work of an engine in this case shows it's wearing and they do that normally a little bit at a time and the oil pressure switch was in the "Bad Luck" category. Many engines will fail to other leaks to wear over use and time.


I suggested strong observations of oil leaking now that you found a very active one. If you used the wrong tools or did it the wrong way somehow it's back on the watch list,


T

Response From timdaniel

Yes, for about 2 to 3 years now, I have been using the 10w30 Certified oil from Sam's Club. It comes out to be about $2.30 per bottle, which is why I use it. I did read about it though before making the decision to use it, and most people agreed it was acceptable oil.

Well, I guess I get what I paid for. It has about 187,000 miles on it. It was a rebuilt engine though, so in reality it has about half of that. Live and learn I guess.

Response From timdaniel

What do you think of these ceramic additives to engines like (links to makers of mechanic in a bottle makers not allowed) Since you mentioned blow-by, I looked it up. IF that is the case, then I guess it's time for a new car because this one is only worth about $1000 kelley blue book. But either way, if I can fix it for just $100, why not? What do you think?

Response From timdaniel

Yeah, I agree. I would not use it normally. I am just trying to not spend money

Response From Hammer Time

Well, that's the best way to end up spending double what you would have in the first place.

That doesn't even take a regular socket. It is a special socket for oil pressure senders only.

Response From Hammer Time

That's the oil pressure sender for the gauge/light. You need a special socket to remove it but they aren't expensive.