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Best Selling Genuine Chrysler Serpentine Belts

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dayco
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Dayco
2004 Chrysler Town & Country Serpentine Belt - Main Drive 6 Cyl 3.3L Dayco

P311-3A8D69F    5060825  New

6K824 , 9124C42-H66 , 88GB450P825 , 04861322AC , 25-72094 , 12555571 , 0493684AA , RD82102 , 12560973 , 10070185 , 31110-R1A-A21 , 825K6 , GY02-18-381A , K060825 , 4L3E-8620-BA , E1ZE-8620-BA , 04593684AA , F3ZV-8620-AA , 04892840AA , E4DE-8620-CA , 827K6 , 6PK2095 , 12569506 , 31110-R1A-A01 , 8933.000.557 , 04861322AB , 88GB459P825 , D9ZE-8620-BA , P100657 , 6K825 , 9845157 , AJ57-15-909A , 88GB453P825 , F8TE-8620-GAD , 20-1625M , 4593684AA , 146-062100 , K060824 , 25-060825 , GT4060825 , PK060825 , E1ZZ-8620-A

Qty:
$28.49
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • w/A.C.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2095.50
      • 82.50
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2109.73
      • 83.06
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler Town & Country Main Drive V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Dayco
2000 Chrysler Sebring Serpentine Belt - Air Conditioning and Idler Dayco

P311-4F96F77    5040338  New

99364-70860 , 90080-91047 , 25-040338 , 97713-2D100 , 99364-30860 , SSA921F009AG , K040337 , 99364-00860 , 4K338 , 11 28 7 512 971 , 99364-20860 , 11950-9F610 , 11920-9E005 , 338K4 , 4040338 , 11 28 7 512 871 , K040338 , 11920-65E20 , 4PK860 , 73323-SA000 , 97713-2E000 , 90916-02354 , 4K337 , 90916-02202

Qty:
$16.83
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Air Conditioning and Idler
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 33.86
      • 860.044
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 34.52
      • 876.81
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .54
Brand: Dayco
Position: Air Conditioning and Idler
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position
2000 - Chrysler Sebring N Air Conditioning and Idler
Dayco
2010 Chrysler 300 Serpentine Belt - Main Drive 6 Cyl 3.5L Dayco

P311-3A8D69F    5060825  New

6K824 , 9124C42-H66 , 88GB450P825 , 04861322AC , 25-72094 , 12555571 , 0493684AA , RD82102 , 12560973 , 10070185 , 31110-R1A-A21 , 825K6 , GY02-18-381A , K060825 , 4L3E-8620-BA , E1ZE-8620-BA , 04593684AA , F3ZV-8620-AA , 04892840AA , E4DE-8620-CA , 827K6 , 6PK2095 , 12569506 , 31110-R1A-A01 , 8933.000.557 , 04861322AB , 88GB459P825 , D9ZE-8620-BA , P100657 , 6K825 , 9845157 , AJ57-15-909A , 88GB453P825 , F8TE-8620-GAD , 20-1625M , 4593684AA , 146-062100 , K060824 , 25-060825 , GT4060825 , PK060825 , E1ZZ-8620-A

Qty:
$28.49
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2095.50
      • 82.50
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2109.73
      • 83.06
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Chrysler 300 Main Drive V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
Dayco
2010 Chrysler 300 Serpentine Belt - Main Drive 6 Cyl 2.7L Dayco

P311-4F2074D    5060840  New

K060841 , 04892680AA , 38920-RCA-003 , 56992-RKB-004 , 38920-RCA-A03 , 88GB453P839 , PK060840 , 38920-RCA-A01 , 6K840 , 4L8Z-8620-AB , 4060840 , 4L3Z-8620-EB , 88GB459P839 , 25-060840 , 56992-R70-A01 , K060840 , 5L3E-8620-FA , F65E-8620-CA , 90916-02659 , 6K841 , 5L3E-8620-EA , JK6-846A , 4L8E-8620-AB , 25212-2B000 , 25212-2G710 , 38920-RCA-A05 , 4S4Z-8620-FA , 6PK2130 , 4S4Q-6C301-FA , 04593685AA , 56992-RV0-A03 , 5L3Z-8620-EA , 840K6 , 6PK2135 , 56992-RV0-A02 , 4L3E-8620-EB , 88GB450P839 , JK6-844

Qty:
$30.71
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2133.60
      • 84.00
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2150.37
      • 84.66
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Chrysler 300 Main Drive V 6 Cyl 2.7L 167 2736
Dayco
2006 Chrysler Pacifica Serpentine Belt - Main Drive 6 Cyl 3.5L Dayco

P311-05E6B27    5060935  New

04861850AB , F2TZ-8620-E , 4060933 , JK6-940A , JK6-943 , F2TA-8620-VA , E0ZE-8620-AA , 1R3E-8620-BA , 935K6 , E8TZ-8620-D , 12594450 , D9ZE-8620-AA , 24506984 , KM4664 , K060935HD , R523007 , 6K935 , JK6-940B , XR3Z-8620-A , JK6-943A , D1102-7291 , XR3Z-8620-HA , JK6-940 , F2TZ-8620-F , JK6-942A , K060935 , 12626222 , 1R3Z-8620-DA , 3621196C1 , PK060935 , 92036698 , JK6-941 , 4060935 , 12559616 , F0TA-8620-FA , 176-162 , 98DA-8620-AA , JK6-942B , F4TA-8620-AJA , FB86935 , F0TA-8620-HA , F67Z-8620-KB , 6K0935 , 1R3Z-8620-BA , 25-76094 , F77E-8620-PA , F2TA-8620-UA , E8TZ-8620-E , E8TA-8620-BA , F67Z-8620-KA , 1R3E-8620-DA , F87E-8620-KA , E8TZ-8620-C , 10105245 , 12551136 , 24505380 , 04861850AA , E8TA-8620-LA , 6PK2375 , JK6-942 , 25-060935 , D9PZ-8620-K , F67Z-8620-KC , 12569436 , 04593668AA , F4TA-8620-AKA , 12590622

Qty:
$27.75
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2374.90
      • 93.50
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2391.67
      • 94.16
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chrysler Pacifica Main Drive V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
Dayco
2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser Serpentine Belt - Alternator Dayco

P311-2483366    5040345  New

90080-91093-00 , 04668380AA , 77.00.729.330 , 999.192.187.50 , B366-15-908 , 90916-02268 , L36-4087 , 90916-02365 , PK040345 , 141-1303 , E7GZ-8620-A , B630-15-907A , 90916-02269 , 77.00.709.398 , 04668380AC , 12553260 , 25212-23021 , K040345 , 38920-PM3-0032 , 4K0345 , 25212-23000 , JK4-342 , 04668380AE , 04668380AD , 90080-91093 , 25-040345 , 11720-B4800 , 4K345 , 11720-V7300 , B3C7-18-381 , 4612229C , 91840-08709 , 90916-02386 , 141-1316 , 146-040870 , 56992-P30-0030 , B3C7-18-381-B , 4PK875 , 11720-V3701 , 38920-PM3-0040 , 345K4 , 91840-08703 , 11720-59S , 04668380AF , 90080-91212 , 90916-A2009 , 25-70876 , 99364-30080 , 4298083 , L36-4088 , 90080-91093-A

Qty:
$15.84
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 34.50
      • 876.30
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 35.16
      • 893.07
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .54
Brand: Dayco
Position: Alternator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Alternator
Dayco
2006 Chrysler Sebring Serpentine Belt - Power Steering 4 Cyl 2.4L Dayco

P311-0BB6C01    5040353  New

11920-53F05 , 4PK895 , 56992-P3F-004 , 25-040353 , 73323-AC000 , 04892444AA , 11950-71E00 , K040353 , 56992-P3F-003 , 73323-AE00A , 4K353 , 353K4 , 4892749AA , 73323-AC010 , 4040352 , 73323-AC011 , 4792532AA

Qty:
$15.12
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Power Steering
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 35.25
      • 895.350
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 35.91
      • 912.12
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .54
Brand: Dayco
Position: Power Steering
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chrysler Sebring Power Steering L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Dayco
2003 Chrysler Voyager Serpentine Belt - Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Dayco

P311-53FBBF0    5060410  New

E43E-8620-GA , D1102-7135 , 90080-91147 , 141-1336 , 20430624 , E43Z-8620-B , 981634 , 38920-P13-J010M1 , E87A-8620-EA , 8-94362-732-0 , 25-71036 , 25-060409 , JK6-414 , 6K410 , PK060410 , K060409 , 6PK1045 , 6PK1040 , K060410 , 99366-01050 , 410K6 , 99366-81040 , F57A-8620-00 , 6K0410 , 2018282-C1 , 6K409 , 141-1352 , D1102-9895 , 3865157 , N3A1-15-908 , 99365-51050 , 4060410 , F57Z-8620-A , 38920-P13-J010 , 99366-21040 , F57A-8620-AA , 99366-21050 , JK6-417 , 25-060410 , 4612669 , 146-061045 , 38920-P13-J01 , 91860-10501

Qty:
$19.72
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Alternator
  • w/o A.C.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 1041.40
      • 41.00
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 1058.17
      • 41.66
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Alternator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Chrysler Voyager Alternator L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Dayco
2008 Chrysler Crossfire Serpentine Belt - Main Drive Dayco

P311-0410F45    5060940  New

10069990 , 25-72379 , JK6-947 , F6UE-8620-HA , JK6-947-A , 210069990 , E8UZ-8620-C , 12608660 , F0UA-8620-KA , R522753 , 1R3Z-8620-EA , 6PK2385 , 6K492 , JK6-946 , 940K6 , 10186191 , F87E-8620-KB , E8UA-8620-NA , E8UZ-8620-A , 1R3E-8620-EA , XR83-8620-AC , 1R3E-8620-CA , 1R3Z-8620-CA , F5UA-8620-VA , D1102-7295 , 5097758AA , 12587562 , E3AE-8620-AA , 4060942 , 4060940 , 6K0940 , 10230729 , 4060941 , 25-060942 , K060942

Qty:
$33.20
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2389.89
      • 94.09
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2406.65
      • 94.75
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Chrysler Crossfire Main Drive
Dayco
2000 Chrysler Voyager Serpentine Belt - Main Drive 6 Cyl 3.3L Dayco

P311-5A97F9D    5060968  New

0FB86968 , 53007539 , K9666 , 6K967 , K060966 , 967K6 , D1102-7303 , 4060967 , JK6-968 , E2SE-8620-NA , 53010276 , 6PK2455 , 6K0968 , 6L3E-8620-EA , 05086140AA , 210085747 , 88986807 , 25-060966 , PK060966 , 04861322 , 10225865 , E2SE-8620-SA , JK6-973 , YL3E-8620-CB , E3SZ-8620-F , 25-72454 , 10085747 , 53010137 , F75Z-8620-BA , 06004093 , 12564764 , 9W83-8620-AA , R505809 , 4060969 , 146-062460 , 5L3Z-8620-AA , YL3Z-8620-CA , E2SZ-8620-F , F75E-8620-BA , 25-76097 , 6K966 , YL3E-8620-CE , 6PK2460 , 5281276 , JK6-973-A , YL3E-8620-CA , 6K9675 , 968K6 , JK6-974 , 06E.903.137N , 06E.903.137Q , 4861322 , C2P12815 , 14102592 , LR011345

Qty:
$37.55
Dayco Serpentine Belt  Main Drive
  • w/A.C.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cross Section: K-section
    • Effective Length:
      • 2459.99
      • 96.85
    • Maximum Operating Temperature:
      • 100
      • 212
    • Minimum Operating Temperature:
      • -42.7
      • -45
    • Outside Circumference:
      • 2474.22
      • 97.41
    • Rib Depth: Standard
    • Rib Profile: W Profile
    • Standards: Sae J1459, Sae J2432
    • Top Width: .82
Brand: Dayco
Position: Main Drive
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chrysler Voyager Main Drive V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301

Latest Chrysler Repair and Serpentine Belt Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

'99 Chrysler Sebring Crankshaft Pulley?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Traveler928 on '99 Chrysler Sebring Crankshaft Pulley?

I have a '99 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Jxi 2.5 V6 (63945 mi).

The serpentine belt broke. While checking out the belt I noticed that crankshaft pulley looked odd. The pulley turns 2 belts - the powersteering (outer) and the serpentine (inner). It looks as if it is a wheel in a wheel with rubber between. The portion of the pulley that turns the serpentine belt (inner) was loose and I can see rubber. I can move and even spin the inner portion of the pulley with my hand.

Is it broken?

If so is that something I can replace?

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

That pulley is called a Harmonic Balancer and it is broken. You just need to replace the balancer which you will likely need a special puller for.

Response From Traveler928

Thanks for the reply. It's a tight space, can I access it through the wheel well?

As far as tools goes, it looks like there's one bolt holding the pulley so I'll need a socket and ratchet, the special tool you mentioned. What about installing the new pulley, does it just slip in or will i need a mallet or something?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, you don't want to go hitting that that with any kind of hammer. They make an installer that will draw it in. You may be able to rent one at the parts store. I wouldn't expect to get that off with a socket and ratchet either. That will likely need a 1/2" drive impact gun to do that. Yes it is access from below the wheel well.

99 Ply. Grand Voy. Serpentine Belt Problems

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Pirate looks at 50 on 99 Ply. Grand Voy. Serpentine Belt Problems

My wife has a 99 Ply. Grand Voyager with a 3.3 engine and apx. 95,000 miles on it. Every time we have a heavy rain or she goes thru a large puddle the belt slips off the pulleys. The belt has been replaced along with the idler pulley that was loose but the problem is still there. All of the other pulleys spin straight and free with no noticable play. The belt stays on as long as the weather is dry.(Talk about your "fair weather friend"!) Any ideas?

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Sounds like there may be a plastic protective splash gaurd missing underneath. Most cars no a days have two or three different ones under the car to protect against just this thing.

Response From Pirate looks at 50

We purchased this vehicle new and never had any issues with rain or puddles for the first 80,000 miles or so. I checked the splash guards and all of them are in place ( thanks Jeff!) So Tom, are you saying that I need to replace the belt tensioner? I was told locally that after a while (lots of miles) they begin to pivot at a slight angle due to their design. Being laid off just recently I hate to replace parts that aren't necessary.

Response From Double J

There is a TSB (technical Service Bulletin ) on this concern....


Number: 07-02-99
Group: Cooling
Date: June 4, 1999
SUBJECT:
Serpentine Belt Slips Off Idler Pulley

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the bracket that the idler pulley attaches to.

MODELS:
1996 - 1999 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1996 - 1999 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (International Market)

NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.3L OR 3.8L ENGINE.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Loss of power steering assist and occurs when driving through deep snow or standing water.

Snow or rain can enter the engine compartment from underneath the vehicle and force the serpentine belt oft of the idler pulley.


DIAGNOSIS:
Visually inspect the serpentine belt and idler pulley to determine it mis-alignment exists (If the serpentine belt is off the pulleys install the serpentine belt). Start the engine and let it run for one minute before checking alignment). The belt should be approximately 2mm (0.08 in.) from the inboard edge of the idler pulley (Figure 1) when alignment is correct and this bulletin does not apply. If the belt and pulley appear as in Figure 2, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:1 04612412 Bracket, Engine Mount AR (1) 04861322 Belt, Serpentine

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.




1. Remove the serpentine belt from around the idler pulley by rotating the tensioner clockwise (Figure 3).
2.
Remove the purge duty cycle solenoid and wiring harness from the right side engine mount.

3. Remove the two right side engine mount insulator vertical fasteners and loosen the horizontal fastener. DO NOT remove the large nut in the center of the core of the insulator (Figure 4),
4. Remove the load on the engine mount by carefully supporting the engine with a floor jack.
5. Remove the vertical and horizontal fasteners from the engine side bracket. Remove the engine mount assembly.
6. Remove the idler pulley from the engine mounting bracket. (Figure 3).
7. Remove the engine mounting bracket
8. Install a new engine mounting bracket. Torque the fasteners to 40-68 Nm (30-50 ft lbs.).
9. Install the idler pulley to the engine mounting bracket. Torque the fastener to 40-68 Nm (30-50 ft lbs.)
10. Properly route and position a serpentine belt onto all pulleys except the idler pulley (Use a new belt if there is any evidence of damage to the original one).
11. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise until the belt can be installed onto the idler pulley. Slowly release the belt tensioner.
12. Install the engine mount; torque the assembly in the following order, engine mount to rail fasteners 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.), vertical fastener 102 Nm (75 ft. lbs.), and horizontal fastener 150 Nm (111 ft. lbs.).
13. Install the purge duty cycle solenoid to the engine mount.
14. Start the vehicle and let it run for one minute then turn the engine off.
15. Verify the serpentine belt is properly aligned (Figure 1).
16. If the serpentine belt has moved toward the outboard edge of the idler pulley, further diagnosis will be required.

Response From needanewcar

I have searched anywhere and EVERYWHERE!! Any idea where i can get this new bracket?

Response From Hammer Time

This question is 2 years old. If you need help with something, please start a new question.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

hi i have seen this problem many times at my shop ,your local chrysler dealer sells a metal guide that bolts onto your serp belt tensioner pulley using the existing bolt it costs about 15 dollars i think and does the trick everytime let me know if you need a part number i will get back to you

Response From Pirate looks at 50

Thanks Todd, that sounds like what I need . If you could find the part number it would be great. Thanks again.

Response From DanD

Any time I order one of these pulley guides; I just ask for the tensioner pulley snow shield and the dealer’s parts guys know what I’m talking about.
I’ve installed hundreds of them and never had a come back for a belt flipping off.
As long as the tensioner and all of the other pulleys are in-line; it should do it for you.

JIM.
I didn’t know there was another bulletin on this; thanks; good to know.

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can only guess without a direct look and check out but the tensioner has a range of where its spring loaded action to maintain a consistant pressure on the belt. This one seems to be a two part deal. Just the pulley and then pully with tenioner which I'll show below. It really shouldn't be cockeyed no matter what and I can't say if that's the pulley and bearing or how it mounts on the tensioner assy.

What I'm really suggesting is to take a marker - touchup paint, or whatever will mark where it is WHERE it moves as it does in normal operation.

Now with whatever belt is on it just take it off but keep it close in place and allow tensioner to go to it's extreme which it would to compensate the belt getting stretched and worn longer over time. Many tensioners will move with just a 3/8th square of a flex handle - perhaps 1/2 inch or special tool on some. Now force it against tension to see how far it can pass your index mark. If that is real close then any adverse vibrations or sudden changes it could come loose and usually not much happens but in this case you find it fallen off so something has to be done.

A, B or C: A. replace whole tensioner. B. If you think this belt is too long get one that's shorter by an inch. C. If these are sold separately do all three and still watch that there's room both ways for the tensioner. It might not be holding the prescribed tension anymore either.

Note: When a brand new belt is installed expect it to strech withing a day so if measuring allow for one the first off tends towards the shorter side and it will wear in to the perfect match. OE parts are likely to be right on. Some aftermarkets will stretch more than others - those sold as "quiet" belts tend to stretch more and I do like those but buy accordingly.

BTT noted: This has happened more than the once so something isn't right. Either there is a routine or regular spot the vehicle is driving thru, too fast with too much water or a fault with the belt set up,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You beat me to a ton of stuff JIM! Good info - thanks,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First and foremost - don't be "hitting" puddles ESPECIALLY with this exact vehicle! If you know there are puddles slow down to a crawl if need be. THIS VEHICLE DOESN'T CHANNEL SPLASH WATER WELL! I've seen one tossed/sprayed water so bad it sucked in air intake - game over for that engine!

Belt: Belt length needs to settle at a mid point of the range of the tensioner. In this case I might suspect it's near the end of range. If marked/indexed on pivot and belt removed for the moment - see how much further the tensioner can travel from the mark. Alternator, PS, A/C can and will take a momentary power grab - belt and tensioner must allow this. If lots of plain water is splashed all over - all bets are off,

T

(edit to correct spelling TG)

93 Chrysler MiniVan Alternator replacement & Belt

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Question From Dean L S on 93 Chrysler MiniVan Alternator replacement & Belt

I have a 1993 Chrysler Town & Country MiniVan with a 3.3L eng. I need to replace the alternator and it's been a few years since I've done this, the last time my car had the old "V" belt around the alternator but this has a flat belt. The alt. looks easy enough but how do you handle the belt?? How do your loosen it & then tighten it back. A diagram would help.

Thank You
Roger

Response From Dean L S

Is there a special tool or trick that is needed to get the lower bolt off the alternator. It set's next to the fire wall & I can't even get a socket on the bolt head. You have to approach it from the drivers side & you can't even see the bolt head.

Thank You

Response From re-tired

It's best reached from under the van . Best done with a floor jack and a good set of jackstands . If your going to be a DiY'er, it's the price you pay .As your skills increase so will your tool and equipment collection . Before you know it you will be almost brought to tears when your wife gives you a 3/8 drive triple chrome plated 30' offset fine tooth ratchet costing two days pay for an anniversary gift.

Response From chickenhouse Top Rated Answer

This is the serpentine belt system, 1 belt runs everything. There is a diagram on the core support or thereabouts showing the proper routing of the belt if you take it completly off. There is 1 pully that is a belt tensioner, it has a bolt in the middle of it (usually) that you put a wrench on and it will move up, allowing freeplay on the belt. Slide the belt off the alternator pulley and release the tension from the idler pulley. Then you can R&R the alt. Of course the battery has been disconnected, same way as the V-belt engines.

Chrysler Town & Country 2001 3.8 L

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Question From MerchantSC on Chrysler Town & Country 2001 3.8 L

I may have a belt problem on my van. It's just my guess, but let me describe what happened and maybe you can help me virtually diagnose this....

Last night the car started to act funny. A typical light squeak I always hear stopped. I was idling waiting for my daughter so I wasn't moving at the time...

Then the battery light came on. But my battery is only a couple years old and it was running so I thought that was odd. As I pulled forward I noticed my power steering was no longer working. Made me nervous, but it was cold and we had to get home so I drove the 5-10 minutes home. The trip home was just as interesting. The car started to heat up too much (a warning light came on, but the temp dropped) and the electronics in the car started to act funny. I've always had some issues with the car's electrical stuff acting odd, but this was more than normal.

I tried starting it last night but got a rapid clicking and nothing turned over so I let it sit.

When I tried this AM it started. I had the hood open and I noticed that a belt that was not moving - it's the one that goes over the alternator, under some wheel and i think wraps around the power steering and a few other things. Shut the engine off and I tugged the belt a bit and it seemed pretty loose, didn't know if it should have that much give or if it's supposed to be snug. That made sense to me, but I'm just guessing.. if it helps with power steering (lost that) and battery (alternator) it could account for some of the failures....

i believe that's some sort of timing belt and if that's a problem, how hard is it to change? Seems like a tight fit to reach in there and it wraps around a lot of things. I don't exactly have a lot of tools at my disposal, but I'm willing to try. I can afford a big repair bill and I think my car is doing this to torture me.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Merchant; This engine uses a mechanical belt tensioner. Keeps the serpentine belt tight. Very common for the tensioner to take a dump. Seeing that this post is two days old, you've probably figured this out, already???

'98 Olds Cutlass Crankshaft

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Question From eliminohpea on '98 Olds Cutlass Crankshaft

The facts: 1998, Olds Cutlass, v6, approx. 115000 miles. Turned it on today to find power steering gone, shortly after the battery light came on. Was able to get it into the garage, but don't have hope for it going much further.
After taking a good hard look with a friend we think the crankshaft no longer turns. The serpentine belt is not broken, just slipped off and I can not turn the crankshaft with my hands.

So my question is just overall help please? As with many people, money is kinda tight right now and I really don't want to call a mechanic out here if I can avoid it. And I REALLY don't want to get a new car. Does this sound like something that I can repair, or will it need a full blown rebuild? My friend said he has heard of some liquid stuff that is supposed to loosen the crank from the engine to help it turn, have you heard of such a thing and does it work?

ANY advice is appreciated. I just can't afford big car trouble right now and I am hoping and hoping that this won't be a thousand dollar repair......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If I understand this, the belt is off and you can't turn the crankshaft pulley by hand - right? That would be normal as your hands are not a starter motor. That crank pulley should turn with the engine cranking by the starter and probably does if you look again with someone cranking and you looking.

The belt fell off is the issue as I see it so far. Now need to know why that happened. While it's off spin the other pulleys and check for any wobble or noise just spinning them by hand. Water pump won't coast for you and ps pulley won't either but they shouldn't "rock" back and forth either.

There's a tensioner pulley there with a bearing and sprung to maintain the correct tension constantly and might have been at the limit of range for the old belt and that alone could have allowed it to get tossed off.

I suggest putting a new belt on - forget the one that fell off and watch that the tensioner is in the middleish part of its range with the new belt. Most are retracted with a 3/8th or 1/2 inch square like a flex handle could do - sometimes with a short extension to get in there. There are kits to make retracting the tensioner quick and easy but can be done on most with some common tools you may have,

T

Response From eliminohpea

Ok, so good news! The crankshaft appears to be fine, didn't have a friend nearby so it was fun times setting up a camera to see it . So now I start the task of putting the belt back on. The belt is fairly new, it was just put on in the summer so I don't think it needs to be replaced. My thoughts are that for one reason or another it simply lost tension and slipped off. Speaking of, how will I know when proper tension is reached? I mean, I know it's supposed to be 'tight' but is there a definate way to tell when it's just right?

Response From Tom Greenleaf




Take a good look at the pic. This should be the tensioner pulley on your car but you are looking at the back side right now. Note the square notch AND the square hole. Whether wrench or plain ratchet for the hole with no socket on it this will swing to allow you to put the belt back on. Right now with belt off it is at it's extreme of the range of adjustment meaning if you could put the belt back on or even close right now something ain't right! You can't just push this thing around by hand so easy - on purpose to hold belt at a pre-set tension. It obviously couldn't do that properly OR there is pulley problem with this item or another OR belt is plain too long now for this no matter how new it is.

More: I see you are by yourself but with some basic tools you can do this. Put the old one back if needed to use the car to go get parts - laugh! Look for a belt routing diagram underhood on a decal. If that's missing it should look like this pattern .....


In that the "cs" means crankshaft - others not marked in this pic. Crankshaft won't turn by hand - it goes with the engine as you noted now.

Working along can be a problem so get the belt started on as many pulleys as you can. It helps me to use a bungee cord to hold the loose belt up taught to a hole in opened hood (support hood with something!) till you get to one last easy one, then retract that tensioner and slide the belt over the last easy pulley and let the tensioner do its thing! Voila! Before starting engine make dang sure the belt in on exactly right on each pulley such that peaks and valleys of the grooves all line up. If it lasts 5 seconds when you start the engine you are probably on properly but look anyway for anything wrong.

OK: You should be up and running as it was right before this happened but THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG because this doesn't just fall off so easy like that.

Hit back with any questions if I've just confused the heck out of you,

T

Response From eliminohpea

nono, not confused at all. I was just working on putting the belt back on, harder than it looks, when I did notice that the crankshaft isn't exactly in line with the other gears. As in, it is not vertically in line. The belt has to move out on the horizontal axis just a bit in order to reach it. Not much, maybe 1/2 inch. Do you know, supposed to be like that?

And, Tom, you've been a great help. Thank you so much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - that was fast getting back to me! I was just done re-reading my own garbage and your back.

The belt should be in a perfect "plane" if you will. If a pulley or perhaps that crankshaft (largest) is not in line it's NOT right! Somewhat rare but crankshaft pulley is also called a "harmonic balancer" and is the grooved pulley mounted permanantly on the center with rubber isolation that can slip - a big NO NO and shouldn't be off a hair.

More: This 1/2 inch off isn't allowed. That's a lot! It either isn't on the pulleys properly or a pulley ANY of them could have a problem. From a front view this belt should line up and be in a perfect plane if you will.

If one is off try to describe it and I'll try to figure out what item it is,

T

Response From eliminohpea

So, just tried starting her up and the belt slipped off again immediately. The crankshaft is definitely out of alignment All the other gears and pulleys n' such are fine, just the crankshaft is off.

Suggestions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! At least you know it. That is an assembly. I'll look in a second to see if they sell those commonly or not. I would consider a good used one and there's more to replacing that than the others - may need to send it out.

First let me see if I can find one new and how much they are. Taking one off requires a puller which can be rented - let's see if this is a DIY for you or not - let me know what you have for tools,

T

Response From eliminohpea

This makes me so sad.....

I've got all basic tools, my father has everything I could possibly need. He lives a few hundred miles away, but I may be able to talk him into making a road trip.

When you say assembly, does this mean a complete engine rebuild and replace most everything under the hood? Gotta say I really hope that's not the case

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I plain don't know how easy this one is to get at. There's a large bolt in the center of that thing - feel for it. That can take air tools to remove - then probably four bolts and with those out you use a puller and threaded bolts that reach just so to pull it off. Forgive me - it's been a while and I haven't done one on this engine yet.

Here's some info from AutoZone and they do sell these. I'm not quite sure why the prices are so different and why the also sell a repair kit for it so this type failure is something new to me. I kinda thought if it lost its position it was done with??

~~~~~~~~~
Harmonic Balancer
Dorman / Harmonic Balancer for a 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Related Parts Repair Sleeve-Harmonic Balancer Belt Timing Cover Gasket About this product: Part Number: 594-148 Weight: 2.5 lbs. Warranty: 1 YR Pricing: $65.99 Availability: Store: Not Available Online: Ships within 2 business days Shipping Restrictions:

  • Overnight and two-day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses
  • Store: Online:


    ~~~~

    If that doesn't show ok just Google AutoZone parts for your car or this pic show above might be its own link to where I was looking for that part,

    T

    Response From eliminohpea

    Thanks so much for your help, I'll have to do a bit more research on the actual process of replacing it. Though I guess I've been lucky since this is really the only big thing that's happened to my car in 6 years.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    It's absolutely replaceable! Don't let this get to you even if you hire just this part out to replace it shouldn't be that bad. I'm a tad confused by the choices which you can decide as needed. This does NOT mean the engine is shot at all - just some kind of funky luck - most last forever that I know of but I've been retired from this a long time now too.

    Good luck with it. BTW - best not to run engine with this off the engine even if it's slid and without the belt you could move the car - no power anything but it should run as it did. If it comes off at all don't run engine - it's stupid but VERY needed for engine balance - hence the name "Harmonic Balancer" .....

    T

    Response From eliminohpea

    Well, $330 later, but my car works again! The harmonic balancer was exactly it, and the mechanic was so impressed that I diagnosed the problem myself !

    He actually had 4 cars come in just this week with the same exact problem, so apparently it's pretty common.

    Thanks again for your help, couldn't have done it without you!

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

    Pardon my nosing in, here.
    eliminohpea; You are right; This is a very common problem. We replace quite a few GM harmonic balancers. Some Chrysler products, as well. They don't make 'em like they used to. Don't know if the mechanic showed you the parts? The inner hub attaches to the crankshaft with that large bolt. The outer ring (with the actual pulley) is vulcanized (rubber) to the inner ring, hence two seperate pieces. Over time, especially if you have an oil leak, the rubber deteriorates and the two pieces come apart. Will also cause one heck of a noise and many times a vibration, since the crank depends on that part to balance it.

    Response From eliminohpea

    That was the weird part about mine is that there was no noise or vibrations, no oil leak either. You're right that the two pieces came apart and the rubber was all cracked, but Wednesday night my car was fine and Thursday morning it was all messed up. I'm just relieved that it was only a $300 fix.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Forgot to add - sometimes you can get a straight shot at these thru the wheel well with wheel removed and plastic inner fender shield moved some or removed to get access,

    T