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  • GM: Acadia, '07-'13, Enclave, '08-'13, Outlook, '07-'10 & Traverse, '09-'13
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2008 - Saturn Outlook XE Canada
2000 Saturn LS2 Repair Manual Chilton - Saturn L-Series, 2000-04

P311-40CA82F    62370  New

  • Saturn L-Series, 2000-04
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2003 Saturn Vue Repair Manual Chilton - Saturn Vue, 2002-07

P311-0A9727D    62390  New

  • ; Does not include information specific to hybrid models.
  • Saturn Vue, 2002-07
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2003 - Saturn Vue Base Canada
  • Saturn Coupes, Sedans, Wagons & S-Series, 1991-02
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1996 - Saturn SC1 Base Canada

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

93 Saturn odometer

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 93 Saturn odometer

I have recently purchased a '93 Saturn for my sister-in-law and the odometer doesn't work. I have had a mechanic (questionable) look at it and he says that it could be a sensor. I would think that if it is a sensor then nothing (spedometer, tach, etc) wouldn't work either? Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem?

Response From Guest

The odometer is driven by a plastic gear which over time becomes brittle and the teeth start to break off causing the odometer to stop.

Response From Guest

go to they have the two plastic gears that fail and diagrams showing how to put in. gears are $25 gear has 15 teeth and other has 25 teeth(this one fails more often)I can have cluster out,gears changed and back in in 1 hour(but Ive done @ 6 times on different cars)take your time,dont break anything.And while cluster out replace any light bulbs not working.If you never reset trip odometer these original gears would probably last forever,resetting trip odometer puts too much stress on these teeth and breaks them off.

Response From Guest

This is a common issue with Saturns. There is a small red gear behind the panel that becomes brittle and looses a few teeth. Your speedo and tach will still work fine but the miles stop ticking off.

Do a search on this forum for odometer.

There are several detailed instructions on how to get into the panel. LOTS of other great info on this site. You can buy the gear from this site or head to the junkyard.

Should take you bout 2 hours. Not hard just go slow.

Response From dave284

I'm pretty sure its the cluster, the odometer is run by mechanical gears unless the cluster is a digital one...still the case would be is to replace the whole unit...but I have never seen one that uses a sensor.

Response From Guest

So to replace the cluster, how much work are we talking about? I am sure it involves taking the dash apart and doing all sorts of crap in there... right? Also, with the cost... couple of hundred dollars???

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer my knowledge some can be easily done others take hours....this kinda work you got to have patience to do, and a repair manual w/ illustrations would help, I would suggest a salvage part. That kind of work can run between 175.00 to 250.00 depending on the mechanic you take it to.

oil light lights

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From rdonderosr on oil light lights

1999 saturn 4 cyl 50,000 miles oil light comes on at times. someone said it may be a oil switch can anyone tell me where it is located and how to test it? thanks

Response From way2old

The way to test it is to remove the sending unit and install a mechanical gauge and get an accurate pressure reading. It it stays up and does not fluctuate, replace the sending unit. If the oil pressure is low, possibly oil pump or bearing wear.

Response From rdonderosr Top Rated Answer

any one know of any sites where you can view pages from auto repair manuals?

Response From rdonderosr

thank you i will try it

96' Saturn

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mbolena on 96' Saturn

Hi all,

I have a 96 Staurn SL2 with 140k. I started the car this morning by leaning in and turning the key, just like every other day. This time it had a muffled back fire. I started it again and blue smoke rolled out of the exhaust and it runs awful. It will not idle but runs ok at highway speeds with a slight miss. The SES light is on, I had the timing chain replaced at 60k. It seems like a sensor problem, any ideas on which sensor is the likely culprit? Or anything else (please not the chain again), Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If a timing belt it's due for another. They work hard and some will kill the whole engine if they break. T

Response From mbolena

I just went out and disconnected the MAP sensor and it seemed a little better, at least it would idle. Once reconnected it died. Is there any easy fire way to find out if it's the timing belt?, and compared to an alternator replacement is it a lot more difficult? Something that can be done in the garage?

Response From mbolena

This is the kind of day I'm having, I'm relpying to my own post! I called to get a price on a replacement belt and the mechanic told me that all 96 Saturns have a chain. Is that true? If so, I probably need to look closer at the sensors?

Response From carjunky

To answer your question: Belt or Chain... Saturn Timing Chain there is an advantage to those dropdowns up top....

Looking under replacement parts, and a 96 Saturn SL I found that link.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Yeh - check with parts but have the info and all ready. I have to look as there are so many different cars and things out there I don't see them all. Some cars changed how they did stuff by the month and your VIN and the month it was made should be on the driver's door jam or door. It could have been made in 1995?? See what you can find at parts here. Questions will come up if there were differences.

They are already selling 1997s and in MAY!! There should be a law that a car is lableled and called by the calandar and NOT just what manufactures want to say.

There is a thing on line called that could be better than a repair manual for you. It's not free but better than the cheapo books. T

Let us know how you make out.

1998 Saturn SL2 Rear Defogger

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Acyd69 on 1998 Saturn SL2 Rear Defogger

Hello and thanks for having this forum.

1998 Saturn SL2 4 cyl with ~123,000 miles.

As the weather has grown colder in my area I have tried to use my rear defogger and found that it did not work. The most recent work was a stereo install by Best Buy Mobile about 6 months ago.

When the car is running and the rear defogger switch is pressed the indicator light (LED) fails to light up. I have checked the fuses (all intact and no indication of corrosion) and replaced the relay. I did not see any indication that the defogger was working when the window had been fogged/frosted. I have read through my Haynes Repair Manual and gotten in the back seat with a volt meter, but was unsure how to hook everything up (and even if the defogger was even on) in order to check voltages.

Is there something I am missing?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Have you checked both the 30amp maxi fuse in the under hood fuse junction box and the 10 amp mini fuse in the under dash fuse junction box?
Do you hear the relay click when you push the on/off button?

With the indicator light not coming on, when you push the switch; there likely isn’t any power being sent to the rear window from the relay. In other words the relay likely isn’t being turned on for some reason?

We have to find out why the light isn’t coming on first, before we begin dealing with the rear window and that’s only if we need to deal with the window at all?

If you know the fuses are good, pop the switch out of the dash pod.
You should have a 4 wire connector at the switch; brown, black, white and Lt blue.
Unplug the switch; the terminals of the switch should be marked with letters; K (brown wire), J (white wire), D (Lt blue wire) and H (black wire).

Connect an ohmmeter across terminals D & H of the switch and then push and hold the button.
The ohmmeter should show continuity (connection) as long as you’re holding the button.

This system also uses the “chime” module, which is also a timer, to automatically turn the defogger off after 15 minutes.
I’ve had a few of these fail and not allow the system to work. The module is the grounding switch for the indicator light and the relay’s pull-in coil.
You’ll find the chime module in the instrument panel junction block (under dash fuse box)
The test procedure for the module is two steps and this right from my service manual.
Step 1- Check all other components that they are functioning as intended.
Step 2- If no faults found in other components replace chime module with known good.

In other words there isn’t a specific test for the module; if everything else looks ok try a new one.
Thank you very much GM. LOL


Saturn Sc1 1999, Fuse Box Going Bad?

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From nick.evans on Saturn Sc1 1999, Fuse Box Going Bad?

4 cylinder, single overhead cam (I was told this is what sc'1' stands for)
130,000 Miles

My saturn has been experiencing a problem that would indicate the fuel pump for several weeks. I would start it (typically early in the morning) and it would start, idle for several seconds, choke, and then die (by this I mean it sounds like the car has run out of gas, though it contains a full tank). After it choked and died I would try to start the car again and it would crank but never start. Or if I waited several minutes it would sputter very briefly but still ultimately not start. It did not blow black smoke when it did start, or while cranking. At any point in time during this all of the console lights would turn on and remain lit, the battery does not appear to in any way be an issue (but this is just from my non-mechanic outlook). I replaced the fuel filter which had not been done on the car I believe ever, but this did not resolve the issue. I took the car into a mechanic and asked him to check the fuel pump. He said that the fuel pump was not receiving power and traced the wiring back to the cab of the car, and inside the fuse box by the passengers kick board. He said that several connections were 'bad' and after cleaning them it ran, but he did say the entire fuse box is going bad. No fuses or relays were blown or not functioning, just connections on the actual circuit board according to him.

I have ran the car for about 5 days since he cleaned the bad connections on the circuit board of the fuse box, however this morning my car once again, started, choked, and died. I was able to get it started after smacking the fuse box, and holding the gas pedal slightly while starting. I can not attest that it was the act of hitting the fuse box that got it to go, as it is currently in the low 20's, however it did sound and behave exactly like it did prior to taking it into the shop.

I have had to replace the starter, the alternator, the battery, as well as wire in a 3rd party horn and relay to replace a destroyed oem horn. I have put into the car a cd player deck that used a universal plug to connect, no wiring was done on my part, however the original owner may have wired in the adapter to begin with, I am unsure. I have also wired a subwoofer to the battery terminal which is self powered, and contains a fuse on its power wire near the battery. The battery I put in is larger than the one that was originally in there.

Here is my question. I am trying to figure out if there is something electrical that is damaging the fuse box, causing it to go bad. I understand that anything electrical COULD in theory overload and cause the issue, but I'm curious if anything in particular jumps out as a common cause for a fuse box to go bad. The mechanic found a new box available from a dealership however they want $500 for it, which is quite expensive, but less then a new car. I want to diagnose the reason that the fuse box would go bad before I pay for a part that just ends up going bad for the same reason as the current one. Also curious, is there a way to repair a fuse box whose circuit board has issues, or is it better to replace it? I do have access to a very capable electrician if necessary.
I currently own a Haynes repair manual for my car which has served me very well in doing most repairs, however I do not see much information regarding the fuse box, and it's repair and/or replacement in the book. If replacing the box is ideal, and I obtained the part, can any one speculate as to the labor requirements to replace said box? Would I require any unique equipment beyond a standard tool box of wrenches, ratchets, and screw drivers?

I tried to provide as much detail as possible as to the problem. I appreciate everyone's help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: If no power to fuel pump and "smacking" the fuse box worked with any dependability with concurrence with the tech that suggested that was the likely issue I'd pursue it. Rare to me but have found poor connections or corrosion in connections where they are fed power,


Response From nick.evans Top Rated Answer

Thank you for your quick reply. I just found a bunch of threads about people with a very very similar sounding problem that apparently was traced to a bad F-5. I don't know anything about this or it's fix but I'm researching it now to see if I can fix that rather than replacing the entire $500 box!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

General and about one that came my way. There was a rubber block on firewall where all wires to an interior fuse box was placed, GM full size van. Power underhood fine. Nothing inside but power outside!?

Luck was with me and that was a road call with limited tools. Took it apart (one bolt if I recall) and appeared ok complete with the bubble gum factory grease on many spade connections all at once when put back and fastened.

I just slightly twisted all male spades, re-greased a bit and when put back on everything worked. Knew this customer well and it never had a problem again! In that case the female spades were IDK why that happened and there was no corrosion but it clearly was THE problem in that one case. Not sure if you would require a whole replacement or repair of just one so would take looking at.

Your tech sounds qualified to make a decision with you based on what is found if taken apart. Bet you don't need or want all of it replaced on now an aging car and probably can be done well and properly if only one circuit involved,


Response From nick.evans

From what I am finding the F5 problem is pretty common with saturns. There have at least been half a dozen forum posts about it. It affects the same set of items in the fuse box (fuel pump, chime, dome lamp). I have found a few people talking about how they cleaned theirs and secured the connections better. I'm hoping I can do the same to mine and solve the issue. If it's not the F5 at least I have eliminated 1 more thing from the possible underlying issues list.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Retired now and just one Saturn that was a bit (no a lot) beat up always hoping it would make it out of here. 15-18,000 oil changes and noisy engine. Can't still be running at all now.

It was newer and no issues like this though. Glad you are doing the leg work for the likely fix/fixes for this even if you send it out being informed is good,


Response From nick.evans

Thanks Tom, Right now I am researching all I can about the F5, what it is, what it does, and how to fix it or replace it. If it sounds very technical I'll take it to my mechanic, other wise I plan to try and attempt it. Just hoping I can find some good info about it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Duh - I'm not there visually seeing what, what looks like there. $500 for new and no doubt + labor probably isn't needed. Not sure what or how much you get if you went that route?

In that some other things have some creative wiring and the age of the car I think I'd go creative or used if you can find EXACT part used with EXACT # and colors of wires as I don't think this is common.

Could also be funky intermittent relay or something else altogether fooling the diagnosis. Would hate to find out after spending time and money that it wasn't there or that, wasn't the problem,