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2012 Ram 1500 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-13353DC    New

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  • Does not include information specific to 2009 fleet models equipped with the 5.9L diesel engine or models equipped with the 3.0L V6 diesel engine.
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2012 - Ram 1500 United States Laramie
Haynes
2013 Ram 1500 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-023B067    New

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  • Does not include information specific to 2009 fleet models equipped with the 5.9L diesel engine or models equipped with the 3.0L V6 diesel engine.
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
2013 - Ram 1500 United States Laramie
Haynes
2012 Ram 1500 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-023B067    New

Qty:
$19.17
  • Does not include information specific to 2009 fleet models equipped with the 5.9L diesel engine.
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
2012 - Ram 1500 United States Laramie

Latest Ram Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

vacuum leak / Please send me a pic

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From jespo on vacuum leak / Please send me a pic

I have a vacuum leak. I found the leak but can't find the other end. The vac. line is a very small hard line coming from the passanger side of the throttle body, to the front of the motor over the ac, and in a cloth caseing with another line going to the speed control servo thats under the battery. The battery is located on the driver side front. The truck is a 97 dodge ram 1500, 5.2, with 80,000 miles. The motor has a slight mis, so I put a small screw in the vac. line to see if it would go away, it did not but the mis did slow down even more. The vac. line is broken between the battery and the motor, closer to the battery. If you have a dodge ram can you look under your hood to see where it goes. If you know where it goes can you please tell me. Please send me a pic of the engine compartment area, at the bottom of the battery. There is a speed servo there, I need to see if there is two vac. lines on it . I do know that the vac.line is in that location.Thank you Jim

Response From jespo

Its Fixed do you want to know how?

Response From Guest

HEy I have the same problem on the same ram and could really use your answer right now. i have a stumble when i let of the gas at low speeds and sometimes stalls when the tac drops low enough
I already did the IAC, TPS, Cap Rotor NE help would be great. thanks in advance

Response From jespo

1- Remove your battery.
2- Under the battery, to the front is the speed servo, remove the three screws holding it in place.
3- Pull out the servo.
4- On the bottom of the speed servo is a L shape hose connector with a hard vacuum hose connected to it
(my hose was not connected). This is because the battery acid drips on it and melts it.
5- If your is connect its still bad (acid did it), cut it between the engine and the battery.
6- Before replacing clean the acid off the battery tray. (I used WD40 and water)
7- Replace the hose with a 3/16 I.D. rubber hose, cut the rubber hose so its about 6" past the servos'
mounting location, at the end of the rubber hose install about 6" of 3/16 O.D. new hard vacuum hose.
8- Remove the L shape connector hose from the back of the servo, clean out the L shape hose connector.
9- Connect the 3/16 hard vacuum hose to the L shape connector, reconnect the L shape connector to the
servo.
10- Reconnect the speed servo and the battery, do not crimp the hose.

Response From jespo Top Rated Answer

I need a pic of the truck, from 94 to 01 dodge ram 1500, 5.2, pick up. Please help. I looked in my Haynes repair manual, I looked on the web with on help.

Response From way2old

Look at the servo and see if there are 2 places for vacuum lines to hook to. Best way to find these is to open up the areas where lines are hidden and chase the lines. If it is broken, you will find the break in vacuum lines.

Rear Air not blowing

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jhamby on Rear Air not blowing

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram Van 2500.

I had the blower motor go out, and i replaced it. After replacing it I had one setting working which was on max. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Now i have 2 our of 3 fan speeds working. However Now i noticed the rear portion of the fan is not blowing any air.

I bought a Haynes Repair Manual which has been not that helpful.

I have checked the breakers and made sure the rear air switch is on, is there a breaker of something i am missing that i need to check.

Please let me know.

Thank you in advanced.

JH

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If the rear blower isn't working on any speed, then you probably want to test the motor itself by jumping power and ground to it because it has separate circuit for high speed. If the motor is OK, then you need to determine if it's power or ground that it's lacking.

fuel pump wont run on a 98 ram pickup

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From skydver on fuel pump wont run on a 98 ram pickup

I also posted this same message in the electrical post. I didnt know where to put it.

First I will preface this fact, I am an A&P mechanic. I work on airplanes not trucks. I have tinkered with cars all my life but only as a hobby not proffesionally. I do as much stuff as I can when I can read the directions.
the manual I have is a Haynes repair manual. Last night my truck quit. it ran out of fuel with a full tank. I just filled it so I know the gauge wasn't lying.
when trying to start it would fire but not continue to run. I did not hear the usual sound of the fuel pump running. I got out my manual and started checking what it told me.
1st I checked the relays, fuel pump and asd relays. The slots they plug into have power where and when they are supposed to. I checked the relays they have continuity and the coils ohm out as prescribed in the manual. I unplugged the line from the tank module and checked for power. I found none. I did confirm that I had a good ground and that I had continuity throughout the entire wire both power and ground from the power distribution center to the pump. I did not try putting 12 volts directly the fuel pump. didnt know if that would hurt anything. According to the wiring diagram the power comes from the start switch thur the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I pulled the cover off the top of the relay visually inspected it and tried manually closing the contacts and still the pump will not come on. all the relays are the same. I have switched some around and used the ones that I know worked to test but know luck.

What do I do next? any suggestion from any of you experts out there?

sorry for the lengthy post but I wanted to give you as much info as possible.

Response From autojoe

you stated ran out of fuel.....if fuel pump is not getting voltage than computer is not grounding asd relay which supplies voltage to pump/injectors/ignition coil.Pcm needs to see crank signal before this happens.Does truck start and stall or no start just crank?If it does not start see if you got battery voltage to the ignition coil/injectors besides no voltage to the fuel pump.What size engine do you have?1500/2500/3500?

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Did you try (key on) position and listen for the f.pump to come on , if its doing right it will run about 5sec.then cut off, this is key on no crank test,
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/index.php but if you can retrieve any trouble codes this site might help.

no power to fuel pump 98 ram pickup

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From skydver on no power to fuel pump 98 ram pickup

First I will preface this fact, I am an A&P mechanic. I work on airplanes not trucks. I have tinkered with cars all my life but only as a hobby not proffesionally. I do as much stuff as I can when I can read the directions.
the manual I have is a Haynes repair manual. Last night my truck quit. it ran out of fuel with a full tank. I just filled it so I know the gauge wasn't lying.
when trying to start it would fire but not continue to run. I did not hear the usual sound of the fuel pump running. I got out my manual and started checking what it told me.
1st I checked the relays, fuel pump and asd relays. The slots they plug into have power where and when they are supposed to. I checked the relays they have continuity and the coils ohm out as prescribed in the manual. I unplugged the line from the tank module and checked for power. I found none. I did confirm that I had a good ground and that I had continuity throughout the entire wire both power and ground from the power distribution center to the pump. I did not try putting 12 volts directly the fuel pump. didnt know if that would hurt anything. According to the wiring diagram the power comes from the start switch thur the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I pulled the cover off the top of the relay visually inspected it and tried manually closing the contacts and still the pump will not come on. all the relays are the same. I have switched some around and used the ones that I know worked to test but know luck.

What do I do next? any suggestion from any of you experts out there?

sorry for the lengthy post but I wanted to give you as much info as possible.

Response From DanD

Don’t apologize for the length of your post the more you can tell us the better.
For some reason I can’t seem to access my repair manuals that are NET based and can’t get to the wiring diagrams.
So how much help I’ll be right now I’m not sure? But yes you can jumper power to the pump and not hurt anything as long as you are confident you’re jumpering the proper circuit.
When you initially turn the ignition on or during a crank of the engine do you feel or hear the relay tripping?
Chrysler is known for adding short jumper harnesses between the main wiring harness and the different devices. Any time there are extra connectors, there is a potential for connection problems. So follow the harness and have a look for any jumpers and if you find any don’t be shy at taking them apart, confirming that there is continuity through them.

Dan.

Response From skydver

No I don't feel or hear the relay kicking in. The asd relay will click every time I turn the key. In the wiring diagram I have (very poor in my opinion, more of a block digram than a schmatic) the ground side (?) of the relay coil goes into the power train control module at a conection marked fuel pump relay control. What is the "powertrain control module"? is that a fancy word for computer?

Response From DanD

Yes that’s the computer and yes I bet 90% of the computer’s functions are achieved by supplying grounds to the different working devices. This function at times is call a driver; ie: fuel pump relay driver.

Dan

Response From way2old

As you seemed to have checked up front and can not see a problem, I suggest going to the fuel pump wiring to see if there is current at the pump itself. If there is current to the pump, either a ground for pump is bad, or the pump has quit.

Response From skydver

Already did that in fact I did it first. My original thought was the fuel pump. After 225000 miles its about time for it to die. when I found that I would have to drop the tank(just after I filled it of course) I decided to check voltage first. thats when I realized it was at least an electrical problem. I have no pwoer to the pump. I have checked every connector between the pump and the relay.

Response From skydver Top Rated Answer

Well its off to the dealership we go. Ouch I know its gonna hurt. Looks like the computer is bad. Parts houses can order me a computer but the dealership has to program it before the engine will even start. So maybe they can download updates to make it work. So anyway you slice it; this is gonna hurt..
thanks for the help but its now over my head. I think I'll stick to fixing airplanes.......they are alot simpler.

'98 Ram 1500 alarm/antitheft system

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Gord on '98 Ram 1500 alarm/antitheft system

Hi all,

I just had to replace my negative battery cable and grounding wire because of corrosion, and upon replacing the cables on the terminal the alarm will sound and the lights will flash. I've let it go on for about a minute and a half and it doesn't stop, and the truck will not start (turning the key does absolutely nothing).

Things I have tried:

- Disconnected both battery cables for about six minutes, put the positive back on, and then the negative.
- Locked and unlocked passenger and driver doors multiple times with negative cable both on and off.
- Put the key in the iginition and turned to "On" position before reconnecting negative cable. The alarm does not sound and the headlights do not flash, but the red LED on my dash above the headlight knob continually flashes and I still cannot start the truck (turning the key does absolutely nothing, again). As soon as I turn the ignition back to the "Lock" position the alarm starts sounding.

The local Dodge service senter recommended the passenger door unlock, which did nothing (had already tried it, but tried it again). Owner's manual and Hanes repair manual mention nothing about the security/antitheft system other than to mention that the truck indeed has one (ya think?!) and the battery/battery cable replacement walkthrough in the Hanes manual does not deal with deactivating or resetting the antitheft system. Dodge's extremely helpful 800 number just told me to go look on the website, which is devoid of any and all useful information.

It's the factory antitheft system and I have manual door locks. I do have the alarm fobs somewhere, but would have to dig around to find them. Is there any way to disable or reset the antitheft system with just the key? Would the fobs even do anything?

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.

Response From Gord Top Rated Answer

I am an idiot. I found my keyfob, hit the Disarm button for the alarm and was able to start the vehicle. I'll proceed to beat my brains out with a torque wrench now.

Still curious to know if there is a way to deactivate the system using only the key as I don't carry the fobs with me (one has the keychain attachment broken off, the other needs to be recoded).