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Chilton
1969 Pontiac Firebird Repair Manual Chilton - Pontiac Firebird, 1967-81

P311-15C3469    28600  New

Qty:
34.56
  • Pontiac Firebird, 1967-81
Brand: Chilton
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Vehicle Submodel Region
1969 - Pontiac Firebird Trans Am United States
Chilton
Qty:
34.56
  • ; Does not include information specific to rear-wheel drive, diesel engine, V8 engine or supercharged models.
  • GM: Bonneville, Eighty-Eight & LeSabre, 1985-05
Brand: Chilton
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Vehicle Submodel Region
2005 - Pontiac Bonneville SE United States
Chilton
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34.56
  • GM: Chevrolet Equinox & Pontiac Torrent, 2005-09
Brand: Chilton
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2008 - Pontiac Torrent Base United States
Chilton
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34.56
  • GM: Chevrolet Cobalt, 2005-10 & Pontiac G5, 2007-09 & Pursuit '05-'06
Brand: Chilton
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2009 - Pontiac G5 GT Canada
Chilton
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34.56
  • GM: Century, Lumina, Grand Prix & Intrigue, 1997-00
Brand: Chilton
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2000 - Pontiac Grand Prix SE Canada
Chilton
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34.56
  • GM: Lumina, Grand Prix, Cutlass Supreme & Regal, 1988-96
Brand: Chilton
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Vehicle Submodel Region
1988 - Pontiac Grand Prix Base Canada
Chilton
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34.56
  • Chevrolet Camaro & Firebird, 1993-02
Brand: Chilton
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1994 - Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GT United States
Chilton
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34.56
  • GM: Lumina APV, Silhouette, Transmission Sport & Venture, 1990-99
Brand: Chilton
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1999 - Pontiac Montana Base Canada
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • ; Does not include information specific to diesel engine, supercharger or rear-wheel drive models.
  • Buick / Olds / Pont.Full-Size (FWD), '85-'05
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
2005 - Pontiac Bonneville SE Canada
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • GM: Regal, Lumina, Grand Prix, Cutlass Supreme, '88-'07
Brand: Haynes
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Vehicle Submodel Region
2005 - Pontiac Grand Prix GT United States
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • GM: Chevrolet Cobalt (05-10), Pontiac G5 (07-09) & Pontiac Pursuit (05-06)
Brand: Haynes
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Vehicle Submodel Region
2008 - Pontiac G5 GT United States
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • ; Does not include information specific to diesel engine, supercharger, or rear-wheel drive models.
  • Buick / Olds / Pont.Full-Size (FWD), '85-'05
Brand: Haynes
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1987 - Pontiac Bonneville LE United States
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • Chevrolet Camaro / Pontiac Firebird, '93-'02
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
1995 - Pontiac Firebird Formula United States
Haynes
Qty:
28.46
  • GM: Malibu, Alero, Cutlass & Grand Am, '97-'03
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
2000 - Pontiac Grand Am GT1 United States

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Pontiac Grand Am Gauge Lighting Has Dim Spot

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From msaz87 on 2004 Pontiac Grand Am Gauge Lighting Has Dim Spot

Hey all,

Year: 2004
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am, 4D
Mileage: 102k

Had a quick question about my Grand Am's gauge lighting... recently I noticed a small spot above the tachometer was dimmer than the rest of the gauges. See the photo below to see what I mean. Has anyone had this happen -- is this a bulb issue or a fuse issue or something?

Thanks for the help!


Response From Mr.scotty

That could just be a burned out bulb.
The cluster in this looks just like my buddys sunfire gt and his has alot of bulbs in the cluster.

Response From msaz87


That could just be a burned out bulb.
The cluster in this looks just like my buddys sunfire gt and his has alot of bulbs in the cluster.

Was it difficult to get back to the cluster? I'm not great with this stuff, so I'm hoping it doesn't call for me to take apart the entire dash just to get to those bulbs.

Thanks for the help!

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

The cluster would probably have to be removed to get to them.

I'm not going to say if it's easy or not cause the sunfire I'm talking about is a 98.

Buy a repair manual is all i can say, or take it some place and them do it.

1990 3.4 pontiac broke timing belt no timing marks. how do I set cams(4)?

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From partschanger123 on 1990 3.4 pontiac broke timing belt no timing marks. how do I set cams(4)?

I have replaced timing belt ,am not sure of timing, it won`t start. I have done compression test it is okay, Has good fuel pressure,and spark. Any ideas?

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

You already answered you own question.
The timing is off.
Get a repair manual for the book or search around and see if you can find a pic of the timing marks.
Don't keep trying to start the engine untill you know it's back in time.

Response From partschanger123

Thanks for the reply, I have the book , it shows the timing marks, and says if there are no marks to put them on myself. Sense the belt was already broken and out of time I am unable to do that. I also went to parts-house to buy new belt sprockets or at least see where the marks are supposed to be, it seems to be a dealer item so that may be my next thing to do unless someone can tell me how to line them up without marks. I am also concerned there may already be damage sense the engine was running when it broke.

Response From Hammer Time

You have bitten off more than you can chew on this one. This engine requires a special set of tools and some in depth understanding of the engine to be able to set the timing. Not only does is not use timing marks but the banks time at opposing crankshaft rotations.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc6045.html

Response From Mr.scotty

Now if his belt didn't break and he was just replacing the belt and he locked the cam gears and didn't touch the crank gear everything would have stayed in time rite?
This is why i won't let a timing belt go over 70,000 miles cause it's much easier to replace a belt thats not broke.
And anytime i buy a car (used) i replace the belt unless i have proof of when someone last did it.

Response From Hammer Time

No, that is not how this car is timed.

Response From Mr.scotty

I wonder why GM made it without any timing marks?
That's not there best Idea.

Response From Hammer Time

Scotty, this is getting old. You have no idea about how this engine works and you are just muddying up someone else's question so if you want to sit back and read, fine but stop hijacking other peoples questions.

This engine is set up this way for a reason. As I already stated, the banks are not timed simultaneously. The cam gears have no keyways and can be installed at any position. I'm not even sure how he got this engine at all since it wasn't used in any 1990 Pontiacs. It was used in 91 to 96 Grand Prixs

Response From partschanger123


Thanks for the info The 1990 was a typo, it is a 91. One of the idler pulley bearings went and caused the belt to break, I normally change it every 80,000 miles. There is no key-way or timing marks. I may need to buy a better book, such as a Hiel. I guess I`m asking to much for a forum.

Response From Hammer Time

You can't do it without the tools.

Response From partschanger123

Thanks for the reply, the book I have tells me the tools I will need. They don`t appear to be anything that I can`t substitute what I have for. They just don`t tell me exactly what I need to do with them.

Response From Hammer Time

Response From Mr.scotty

Ok, I stop making the place a mess with my 4 post. lol

Thanks for replying though, i learned something!

Montana SV6: Oil pan, Transaxle / transmission fluid, Steering and Repair Manual

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Devyn on Montana SV6: Oil pan, Transaxle / transmission fluid, Steering and Repair Manual

Hi,

2007
Pontiac
Montana SV6
3.9
47,500

I've had a look underneath and I've a few questions with regards to this car from the experts.

First I would like to get a good repair manual for this vehicle. Where could I find one? Haynes doesn't look to have anything for the Montana SV6 sold in Canada from 2006 onwards. Searching online for any place that I could buy such a manual from came up empty strangely enough. I would expect with this many of them on the road, there aught to be some manual for them. Would appreciate your help here.

Secondly, when I turn the wheel hard to the left or right, I heard a brief but loud high pitched sound. Sounds like a belt slipping on one of the wheels but is very brief. Where could this be coming from or what could be the issue? I've checked the power steering fluid. The fluid reaches mid way on the crossed section of the dipstick so doesn't appear to be the culprit.

Looking around for the oil pan bolt, I saw one on what looked like an aluminum pan underneath the car. However, this bolt doesn't look like it's been touched for a while and I've already took this car through plenty of oil changes. I'm used to VW vehicles so would like to be sure that the one I'm looking at is actually the oil pan bolt or the transaxle/transmission fluid pan bolt as I'll eventually need to change both.

Dev..

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Click Here...for Repair Manual info....see if this helps...

1998 Pontiac Sunfire GT overheating

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Oshawaguy20 on 1998 Pontiac Sunfire GT overheating

Hey, I have a 1998 pontiac sunfire GT 2.4L.

Currently the car will let me drive it for about 20 mins and then the temp gauge begins to rise.. it gets about 6/8th of the way up on the gauge (still technically in a safe zone) and my coolent starts leaking out of the overflow.
The rad fan was not functioning, so I went and replaced the entire rad fan, and it works fine.. But the car is still overheating and the coolent gets so hot, that it starts to boil and leak out of the overflow.. What should I do? I think it could possibly be the water pump, but there is no grinding or whining noise that would indicate the pump dying out.. I'm at a loss and not sure what to do.. PLease help!

Response From Hammer Time

You could still have air in the system from previous overheating or you could have more serious problems with a head gasket for the same reason.

Response From Oshawaguy20

I dont think it is the head gasket, due to the fact that I am not spewing out any white smoke ( or any smoke) out the tail pipe. The water pump seems to be okay as well, I cant hear any grinding or whining noises coming from the engine that would indicate this. I think my next step is to install a new thermostat. WOuld anyone have the process on how to change a thermostat in a 2.4L engine? and if so can you please post how to do it? Thanks alot, hope to see a response by morning so I can do it before I work.

Response From Hammer Time

You seem to think you have it all figured out so good luck with that.

Response From Oshawaguy20

Oh, I'm sorry.. I seem to have thought that this forum was supposed to provide assistance with technical car issues, not sarcastic responses to what I 'think' may be wrong. I was simply asking for an opinion, and possible solutions based on what was going on with my car. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

I seem to have thought that this forum was supposed to provide assistance with technical car issues,

That's correct. We volunteer our time and experience to help people with advice which I did, and your response was that I was wrong and decided to go in an entirely different direction which was never suggested and only serves to waste my time.
I've helped thousands of people here but I'll be the first to admit, I have no patience with people that want to debate the advice I give them with their years of shadetree knowledge.

You'll be in for a surprise when you go to replace the thermostat on that engine, if you can even find it. There are ways to find out if a thermostat is working properly or not.

Response From Oshawaguy20

And you fail to remember this is the internet where people for 1 are not always trustworthy. For one, I am not trying to debate the issue, I was simply saying why I thought it was the thermostat.. Maybe if you explained a little why you thought it was the head gasket, or explained why it wouldnt be the thermostat instead of "losing your patience" maybe you should have a little more patience with people on here, because obviously if one is posting asking for help, obviously they wont know as much as you.. Its like calling a tech support centre for your internet.. they wont get angry at the customer because they ask questions based off their knowledge. Don't get offended because I asked a question / tried to make my own diagnoses. I am not calling anyones intelligence or knowledge into question, I just want to fix my damn car. So, if you do in fact think it would be the head gasket, can you please explain to me why - as I don't know how or why it could be the gasket. Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Head gaskets can fail in many different ways and actually only blow white smoke in the most severe situations. Most times they are just allowing compression to leak into the cooling system and burning small amounts of coolant. The compression in the cooling system will both create air pockets and superheat the coolant. If you read back, that was one of 2 suggestions I made that need to be at least looked into. Believe me, you don't want to change a thermostat on this engine unless you have to and it's not acting like a stuck thermostat. Make absolutely sure the system is full of coolant (not water) and the fans come on at around 225degrees before moving onto anything else. You can tell when the thermostat opens by feeling the temp of the lower hose and when you feel it suddenly get hot, the thermostat has just opened which should happen around 200 degrees.

Response From Oshawaguy20

Okay, so is 50/50 premixed coolent no good? and how much would I be looking at in repairs if you are correct in it being the head gasket?

Response From Hammer Time

50/50 is preferred. Head gaskets can run $800 or $1000, depending on the extent of damage but don't get ahead of yourself. Find out for sure what is going on.

Response From Oshawaguy20

Okay cause I have been using 50/50 I'll go look into this and check back when I get some more information. thanks for the advice. It's appreciated.

Kyle.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

There is many ways a headgasket can blow.
It could be combustion gases getting into the cooling system causing it to over heat (I had this same problem with a car i fixed for my sister).

If you don't like Hammer times suggestions then buy a repair manual and figure it out your self.., This man has been doing this a long time and knows what he's talking about.
And it's hard to give you a perfect solution without seeing the car in person.

Response From Oshawaguy20

I'm not looking for a perfect solution, just possible issues due to what symptoms the car is showing. Im no expert, I just know some of the tell signs the car may show for some issues and thanks for the advice, after I replace the thermostat if the issue keeps happening I'll probably have to take the car to my garage to check out the head gasket. Thanks!

Kyle

Pontiac Vibe Wheel bearing replacement

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Roger2561 on Pontiac Vibe Wheel bearing replacement

Hi everyone. I'm new here. I need help with my 2006 Pontiac Vibe AWD 1.8L motor with 61,000 miles on it. The drivers side rear wheel bearing needs replacing. I've worked on many trucks in the past and the brakes usually came apart rather simple. However, I'm having trouble removing the brake drum so I can continue the disassembly process. On the trucks there is a "window" where a special tool is inserted to release the auto adjusting unit. However, I cannot seem to release the auto adjust so i can remove the drum. Any tool I have is for pickup trucks and they simply too big to fit in the access hole. Presumably I'll need a smaller one to fit the car. Once I have the drum off, I'm assuming the brake shoes and associated hardware removes the same as the pick up trucks. Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help. Roger

Response From Hammer Time

Unless your brake drums are grooved, the drum should slide right off. Sometimes rotating the drum will help. If you have to back off the adjuster, you will have to make a tool to lift the adjusting lever off the teeth to be able to rotate it backwards.It works like a ratchet and only tightens unless the lever is lifted off of it.

Response From Discretesignals


Response From Roger2561 Top Rated Answer

Hammer and Discretesignals; Thanks for the reply.

Hammer - Unfortunately, they do not simply pull off. I have tried to pull them like I did on my pickups but without any luck. I'm assuming I'll have to purchase some kind of tool to fit through the access hole in the backing plate to back off the auto adjuster. I'll check with my parts guy this evening.

Discretesignal; The diagram you provided is a huge help. It shows a slot through which a couple of screwdrivers are placed to manually loosen the auto adjuster. On the Vibe it only has a small hole not much larger than the finger nail on my index finger. I did not find a slot as shown in the diagram. Perhaps I didn't look close enough. I'll have another look this evening.

Gentlemen - If you had your choice of repair manuals to purchase, which would you use? The Haynes or Chilten (I think that's the other one) manuals?

Thanks for your expertise and assistance.

Roger

Response From Discretesignals

If you had your choice of repair manuals to purchase, which would you use? The Haynes or Chilten (I think that's the other one) manuals?

Knowing what I know now, neither. They both are about the same when it comes to content. They are usually vague and have horrible wiring schematics. I'm not a saleman, but if you want good service information subscribe to Alldata DIY and warm up the printer.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, Alldata all the way.

Response From Roger2561

Okay, I signed on to Alldata DIY and it appears to be a great source of information. Thanks for the tip.

Looking at the description for removal of the rear wheel hub and bearing, it says first to remove the knuckle. Is this the only way to remove the hub or can the hub be removed without removing the knuckle? I understand the ease it provides by removing the knuckle, I'm just curious if it can be done without removing the knuckle. Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate it. Roger

Response From Hammer Time

Maybe this job isn't for you.

You have an AWD vehicle which means there is an axle going through that hub and the hub bolts from the rear. How do you propose you are going to get those bolts out with the axle in place?

Response From Roger2561

Hammer - It's not that I can't do the job - it's rather simple compared to some of the repairs I did on my trucks - I was just curiosity, thats all. Plus, this is a challenge because compared to the trucks, everything on the car is micro so locating things is a bit different. Once I found what I was looking for, the brake drum removed without any effort whatsoever. In the trucks, I was able to sit upright inside the wheel well and have a great view of everything behind the backing plate. That can't be done with the car so I have to adjust. This is my first car I have ever owned, so it's a learning curve for me. Plus, I never turn away from a challenge.

Thanks for the concern and for the help. I appreciate it. Roger

Response From Roger2561

Update - The new rear wheel bearing/hub assembly is in place. It went in much easier than the one that came out. All that remains to be done is re-install the brakes, bleed the system and go for a test ride. That'll happen in the morning.

I want to thank you guys for the assistance with this project. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks again. Roger

Response From Hammer Time

Glad it worked out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If need be just get some cheap flat head screw drivers such that two fit in that small hole, bend one to act as a brake spoon for star adjuster and another small one so it can move the lever away (unseen really) such that adjuster can retract instead of only going in ratcheting direction to tighten it more.

If drum is free from hub. If not get that and drum should wiggle but not come off if shoes too tight against a rust ring or area not worn from the shoes.

Avoid plain prying or pullers as backing plate isn't as strong as you might think and can be damaged,

T