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1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Repair Manual Chilton

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1985 Oldsmobile 98 Repair Manual Chilton

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1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Repair Manual Haynes

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1974 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Repair Manual Haynes

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1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Repair Manual Haynes

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1970 Oldsmobile 442 Repair Manual Chilton

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Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 Oldsmobile Intrigue

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 98 Oldsmobile Intrigue

I own a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue and have had problems with shifting it out of park. I've been told to check the solenoid cable and my break lights because they may have something to do with it. Well i have checked the break lights and they are working, but I don't know how to take the cover off of my middle console to look for that cable. If anyone knows how i can take the cover off or where i can find the cable at i would really appreciate it. I am a college student and away from home so i really need my car.

Thanks Joe

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

It would be kinda hard to tell you how, I don't have the diagrams. But for a $13.00 investment, autozone should have a repair manual with step by step illustrations.

service code and remedy

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jayeffel on service code and remedy

1988 Olds Delta 88 Royale, 6 cyl 3.5l. Buick engine I believe

The Service Engine light is on continuously codes identified as "41" and "63"'

Haynes Repair manual for the car shows code "41" as: A) "EST circuit- No distributor reference pulses to the ECM at specified engine vacuum (about 8 inches Hg)" and also as B) "EST- circuit- The electronic spark timing (EST) bypass circuit or the EST circuit is grounded or open. A malfunctioning HEI module van set this code". It show nothing for code "63".

Haynes Techbook for engine code show code "41' as: A) "No distributor signals to ECM, or faulty ignition module"; B) Cam sensor circuit fault or ignition control reference pulse error"; C) "Cylinder select error". {only showed codes causes that apply to this engine. For code "63" it shows : A) "EGR system fault (1990 and earlier Buick and Oldsmobile)"; B) "MAP sensor voltage out of range, probably high"; C) Cruise control system problem(speed error).

I had replaced the alternator a few months ago, which posed some problems. When I took the bad alternator off I removed the plug with 4-5 connections in it , the lead to the battery, and I thought another smaller wire that connected directly to the back of the alternator. The new alternator was different from the old one, the new one is what is shown on the Hayne's manual, at Advanced Auto and Auto Zone. The older one was wired differently. When connecting the new alternator, there was no connection for another wire. and I did not see any wire loose where I would have laid it - near the alternator waiting to be connected.

What are the codes telling me? Replacement of a part or parts? Adjustment of one or more parts? Where should I look?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

jayeffel - you meant 3.8L didn't you?

Suggestion: Before you let codes on a 1988 MY vehicle drive you nuts try just R&R ign module and make sure all connections are good and the mess of wires there. Just a thought as the bad connections = bad info,

T

2000 Cavalier: Electrical Loss

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From DustinM on 2000 Cavalier: Electrical Loss

2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.2L 4cyl, 125,000mi

This past weekend I changed the starter on my car. During this process I made the error of not marking what wires were coming from which post. After getting the wires crossed a couple times, letting some sparks (from the neg. post) fly when I reconnected the battery, I finally got it wired correctly and it starts.

The real problem is that my alternator is now not putting out any voltage. I tried several things but my multimeter kept coming up 0.0 off the back of the alternator. I took it off and ran it to my local auto parts store where they bench tested it, and it passed. I brought it back home, put it back on, tried multiple times and still 0.0 on the volts. I went back and bought a new alternator and it doesn't put anything out either. Still 0.0 volts off the bolt on the back.

I'm just at a loss on this one. I've had my car almost 10 years and this is the first trouble it's ever given me. Does anyone have any ideas at all why even a brand new alternator will not put out any volts? My only suspicion is that my problem may have something to do with the plug on the top of my alternator. I don't know what it is or where it goes. The wiring schematic in my repair manual says it goes to the powertrain control module.. again, over my head, but I'm not sure this would have anything to do with it.

Again, I'm just at a loss for ideas and I'd really like to not have to take it in somewhere being as I'm already several hundred dollars in on new parts. Does anyone have any ideas on a fix, or things I might be able to try? Any information or suggestions would be awesome. Thanks!!

Dustin
Springfield, Mo

(Post intact - just removed hyperlinks)

Response From DustinM

I ended up taking it to a shop that just does auto electric and as it turns out, I had a couple wires on my starter crossed. They rewired it and sent me on my way, problem solved.

Response From James_85_jr

the main charging wire on some cars hook up to the battery cable on the starter you can trace the wire from the hot post on the battery to the starter then from the same post on the starter back up to the post on the back of your alternator.

i have had the same problem on a pontiac grand am and ended up running a heavy wire strait from the back of the alternator to the hot post on the battery.

hope this helps

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I had an identical issue with an Oldsmobile, and after a lot of cursing and pinning wires found that the wire supplying voltage to the field coils ran off the starter battery terminal as suggested previously. What I didn't realize is it had a fusible link in it which fried. Have a look and see if you have the same thing.

'96 Oldsmobile Intermittent Start

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From texasgirl on '96 Oldsmobile Intermittent Start

Hi everybody,

I have a question and I'm hoping somebody might have some idea of what to do, so here it goes...

I have a 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL, it's an automatic with just over 170k miles on it. It's a good car and runs alright, but it's in need of a tune up pretty bad.

The problem I'm having is that sometimes I can't get the car to start. And by not start, I mean it will not turn over. It doesn't do it all the time, but some days it will do it repeatedly and other days I don't have a problem at all. When it has these fits, the lights on the dash will light up and seem normal, but when I turn the key to start it, nothing happens.

Since the car is capable of starting without a problem, I think it is unlikely that it would be a problem with the starter. So my guess is that the most likely cause is one of 4 things....

#1 The battery.

I haven't had the battery tested yet, but I know it's not dead because the lights turn on and do not look dim or anything, and I can usually get the car to start eventually (though sometimes I really wonder if I'm going to be stranded somewhere...), but it's possible that it might be weak, leaking, and/or not charging all the way - but why would the car start after several attempts if it's too weak to start it?

#2 The security feature.

The car has one of those security things where it has a resistor inside the key. I looked it up and I think it's called a PCM (powertrain control module). For some reason every so often the security light comes on while I'm driving but will usually turn off on it's own after a few minutes, but it doesn't seem to affect driving.

#3 Neutral Safety Switch

The car is old so I know some parts are going out and need replacing, and I heard that the neutral safety switch can sometimes cause a car not to start.

#4 Electrical issue or tune-up

I can't think of any other likely cause other than some weird electrical issue, or maybe the spark plugs and wires which need to be changed. Would spark plugs even affect the car's ability to start?

So...What do you think is the most likely cause and how do I go about testing it?

My car is not very easy to work on and I'm broke so I can't afford to take it to a repair shop for maintenance or repairs.

While I have very little knowledge about cars I'm not afraid to attempt easy to moderate repairs myself, so long as I have thorough instructions and some assistance from my fiance.

I have the car's repair manual but some of it's instructions are really vague so any tips or insight into what to do will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone in advance! :)

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

A tuneup won't keep it from cranking over, but not doing it will lead to a misfire that will wreck your catalyst and leave you with a very expensive bill.

A battery being able to turn your lights on means nothing. That takes very little power to do. Starters take a lot. Your battery must be tested and the contacts cleaned shiny and tight to begin to diagnose anything else. I can't stress enough how the contacts must be very good. So many no-starts and driveability issues stem from this its huge.

It is possible your Passkey needs to be relearned. Usually they act up all the time though.

If you suspect a neutral switch, try moving on the shifter while holding the key in start while it won't crank. If this gets it to crank you've narrowed down the issue.

Your car is a lot easier to work on than many of them out there that we deal with on a daily basis. If you can't afford to pay someone else to do the job, you're doing to have to get your hands dirty, pinched, cut, etc like we do or you're going to have to get some comfortable walking shoes.

can a computer be "sent out" repaired or is my mechanic trying to pull a fast one!

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From bjg1 on can a computer be "sent out" repaired or is my mechanic trying to pull a fast one!

It's a long story but here goes:
I have a old 78' cad, Seville.that runs sweet.a car that's in nice shape , all original.well,after having high emissions on a smog test. i took my car to a local shop. and asked if they would find the source of my problem.after being told how one employee had been around these cars for years and "knew them well" i decided to let them repair it.a day later i stopped by to drop off a Cadillac repair manual. to my surprise there was another Cadillac in the shop like mine with a for sale sign for $2500 parked next to it with the hood up ...( you thinking what I'm thinking.....hold on it gets better) and i was told it's the owners car and "we switched the sensors and found yours is bad and when we put his in your car your emissions went way down!" OK looks a little suspect but hey they found the problem.even though they trying to charge me $120 for a $70.00 part. I'm thinking "OK replace it" and I'm done.two days go buy i haven't heard from them call back they tell me "it won't start every thing points to your alarm thats causing this"(now the owners working on my car) i say OK disconnect it i''l get that fixed. another few days go buy i drop in on them. i get there the owners no where to be found and my distributer is sitting on the work bench and the tech that was originally working on it says (the good news)"this part just some how blew out...it happens"....and shows me a electrical part on the side of the distributor(OK now the bad news) he broke the distributor housing taking it out! finally talked to the owner who tells me he will take care of it and they have ordered another one and will put it in. (now I'm starting to get excited)and after i had to call them again 2 days later i was told "we cant get the emissions down." .so i call Friday and was told hurrah hurrah we found the problem it's the computer."we switched computers with the the other seville and the emissions went way down and your car runs great". so we sent yours out to be repaired.repaired? well as calmly as i could i reminded him that "you told me that before and that it was running "great" when i brought it to you"
my question is:
i thought these could only be replaced can a computer they be"sent out" and repaired? thanks. Byron

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Car computer repair?? Possible but I don't know of it -- especially for a 1978!! T

Response From Guest

hey Tom,
thanks for the quick reply.
he claimed it's not getting/giving the right info from the censors.what's also suspect is that he never let me know.giving me a chance to decide if thats what i wanted to do our not. i had to call him to find out he already had "sent it out" Hmmmm.... Byron

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's testing my memory but the thing will called a computer back then was under hood and right now costs about $30 bucks!! They still had to get correct info from just a few sensors?? This shouldn't be too difficult or expensive, T

Response From Guest

my question is should he have sent it out without the owners consent? in my shop noooo! THAT IS WRONG. you MUST ALWAYS GET THE CUSTOMER APPROVAL FIRST. if it were me i would let the shop eat the cost.

Response From bjg1

i agree with you and tom keeping the customer informed.you should notify him when ever it's going to cost him more money.and by not doing so is totally unprofessional way of doing business. not only does it give me the decision to say yes do it or no don't.the shops are asking for trouble doing it any other way.Is it the garages fault that the distributor of this 28 year old vehicle was seized to the point of breaking?of course it's not the shops fault the engine 28 years old and never been taken apart.heck if he was smart once he found out it was seized he should have called and let me know. and i could have made the decision to go head and take a chance and remove it and i would have been responsible. Nowhere In the original post of this thread did I read that an estimate was asked for: as far as asking for a estimate well that's why i went there. to find out why the emissions where so high and if he could fix it. diagnostics
Is the poster pissed because the repair for his 28 year old vehicle wasn't/isn't going to be a ten minute, ten dollar fix?
hardly: it cost me 150.00 bucks(diagnostic fee) just to give him the right to replace a $120.00 sensor that was not the problem,break my distributor and blow up my ecm.also the car sits in the garage and is rarely driven (third car) so time is not a factor. I like so many hard working folks don't mind paying for a services.hey thats why we work. but when you have to get up 4:30 in the am. 5 days a week. (like i do) you don't want to screwed over by some bozo that does not have the business sense to call.
i decided to let them repair it: yeah i figuerd $270.00 and it's all fixed i'm out the door thats a deal no problem "let do it"

ok here's what happen yesterday: i decided to do a search found some folks on the east cost that wants $150 and change to recon it. . i went downto the shop first thing monday morning. and the service manager was wrong it wasn't sent out the owner said that they found a reconditioned. one for 500.00 plus 150.00 to put it in. well ..let me think about it ........NO! so i jsut told him to put it back together and i would come get it. driven in and towed out ! and charged 272.00 that's one hell of deal
thanks again,Byron

Response From DanD


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, I agree with customer approval. I did work for myself and knew my customers. Little stuff I didn't call them but if something was going to be expensive they had to tell me to go or not.

Damn near nothing in a 1978 car should be expensive ------ Good grief it was only the fourth year Ford introduced electronic ignition!!!! -- In all their cars.

It's hard to say but I think you should seek out a new shop, T

Response From DanD

Computers in most cases can be sent in for reconditioning.
Tom I believe that some models of Cadi’s back then were just beginning with feed back computer controlled carburetors.
Nowhere In the original post of this thread did I read that an estimate was asked for; the only thing I did read is that

i decided to let them repair it.

Is the poster pissed because the repair for his 28 year old vehicle wasn’t/isn’t going to be a ten minute, ten dollar fix?
Is it the garages fault that the distributor of this 28 year old vehicle was seized to the point of breaking? Did the garage not replace the broken distributor?
I would like to hear the garages side of this before we start condemning them.
Sorry.
Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hi Dan,

I guess I forget how long that was ago. My customers has more Oldsmobiles than Caddys from that vintage.

Late 70s was a strange time for cars. No power and feeble attemps to make carbs do all kinds of electronic things as CAFE standards were in place and I didn't see cars untill off warranty.

Was not afraid to get used stuff from wicked wrecks but the yards would only let me get stuff from really totalled cars. You couldn't pick at a fixable wreck then or now as someone would buy it and fix it up.

____________________________________

Off topic: It's 9-11-2006 and God Bless America and the whole free world, T