Arggh! Just Googled the web away looking for service tools for this not showing just what I wanted. Couldn't find it exactly but think it's straight forward bearing service but.........
Dust caps can be a pill and they can be removed with nice ice-tong type tool, channel lock pliers, or flat screwdriver twisted to release cap. That would expose a locking/adjusting nut held with cotter pin or nut made to "ding" to hold in place. When outer bearing is free it will come out with a washer in front of it. With caliper out of way the whole hub should come off with inner bearing inside help mostly by the inner seal. Inner grease seal can be removed without damaging it but they should be considered expendable.
Some mechanics will put rotor back on with just the nut finger tight and pull sharply to remove inner bearing and seal will come out too. I DON'T CARE FOR THAT AS IT'S HARD ON THE INNER BEARING!
That grease seal can be pryed out with hub face down with a seal removal tool which is really just pry tool that can just pry on metal of the seal without hurting the rubber seal.
There are a few different ways serviceable wheel bearings do things but it's mostly basic. You can spend a fortune on special tools but it's mostly unneeded.
For routine repacking you don't need to remove bearing races at all! Those do get pounded out with a brass drift but lets not go there for just packing the bearings.
With bearing out you can pack them by hand (have plenty of hand cleaner) merely pushing grease thru bearing till you see it come out opposite side. Inner bearing gets placed back in hub, seal new or good saved one just tapped back into place or with tools if you want (or a washer or socket that exactly fits) and ready to install over spindle for outer bearing, then washer, then nut torqued while spinning rotor/hub to spec (hard to define that without a torque measureing tool but about as hard as you could do with a screwdriver on socket straight on such that hub has no freeplay -- it gets to be a feel--) then nut is locked there with cotter pin or nut may have a skirt to punch down a dimple into a slot on the spindle. Dust cap carefully hammered back with screwdriver or again a socket that fits just right to contact just the crimped last part to friction fit back into the hub. Brake parts back together as needed and press brakes when back to set them again to close contact (disc brake type only) and it's done.
This is primal bearing service 101 if you will. If you had a hand once you'd know it forever for assorted ones on cars, trucks, rear bearing on some FWD vehicles, trailers of all types etc.
This is simple yet IMPORTANT to do right. When a race is removed it adds to the procedure to set it known bottomed in place but routine service doesn't require messing with it.
Cotter pins types should get new cotter pins. Torque should err to less if in doubt.
Just spent 1/2 an hour trying to find some standard concise procedures for this and all lacked.
AutoZone had some good advice and graphics if searching around there.
Since early in my work on anyting I've had a neat Snap-On ice tong multi tool that I've had now for decades and couldn't find on to show a pic of. That, Channell lock pliers, ball peen hammer, assorted washers, diagnal wire cutters (dykes) and a cotter pin puller hook (hand but not mandatory) is about all I've ever needed.
Best one tool is Snap-On tool # GCP 10 (marked USA) and looks like tongs to pick up a block of ice - couldn't find it listed anywhere??
Note: Tapered inner and outer bearings are torqued to adjust lash (freeplay) and barrel type the retaining nut is not adjusting bearing lash but rather holding in its inner race but still frequently help securly locked with cotter pin or other method on a spindle nut.
Any one out there have a good link to existing bearing service suggestions? This all just off the top of my head.
When in doubt - ask, and get proper help instructions as this is important but also routine. Good luck,
T
Hey Tom,
And Thank you so much as this is the first time that I will have done this,, but need to learn to do correctly. As I also need to repack my Trailer Bearings as well. So I'm thinking that If I can get the Nissan done,, then hopefully I will have the tools and knowledge to do my Single Axle Trailer as well. No brakes on it,, and should be much easier to do.
I purchase a Bearing Packer that fits on my Grease Gun. It was only 10 $'s at O'Riellie's so I went ahead and got it. They said that If I don't want to use it,, and don't open it,, that I can return it.
I'm not afraid of buying more tools,, as in my opinion,, they are a Great Investment,, especially for future jobs,, and when needed "Right Then",, and saves me time and money to go out and buy more tools in the middle of a repair job or emergency job.
I will be making a list of the tools that you mention,, and visit Autozone, Carquest, Advance, & Orielly's.
I will also go ahead and purchase the Inner Bearing Seals,, as the book says to replace them.
Is this style and inner and outer bearing, dust cap, lock nut with cotter pin, packable bearing type?
Yes Tom,, The Inner Bearing has a Bearing Oil Seal,, but the Outer bearing only has a flat type Lock washer.
So it is mainly the Inner Bearing that I am trying to figure out how to remove without damageing it or the surrounding Metals.
Both manuals say to tork the Wheel Bearing Lock Nut to 25-29 ft lbs,, and then turn back 45 Degrees!!! What exactly is that all about? Then they say to check the Bearing Preload,, with a Spring Gauge attached to the Lug Studs,, and should have a pull that is 2.2 to 6.4 lbs. I don't remember the fellow that has done all of this service before doing this. Maybe he just knows how much is normal wheel turning resistance is supposed to be by Experience. That's what I am thinking anyway.
If I need to purchase one of those spring gauges,, I'll do that as well,, if they don't cost too much,, and if commonly available.
I sure do appreciate all the Help,, and I'm thinking that this is helpful to a lot of othres as well. Especially when I often see Vehicles on the Shoulder of the Road,,with the Wheel off the Spindle at a 45 Degree Angle up in the Wheel Wells.
I hope that a lot of other's get in on this discussion. Is is possible to post picture's in this forum?
Anyway Thanks again so much and keep the help coming,
Joe
