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Chilton
2004 Mazda Tribute Repair Manual Chilton

P311-2221B39    26230  New

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2004 - Mazda Tribute United States LX
Chilton
1990 Mazda 323 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-2839133    46802  New

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1990 - Mazda 323 United States Base
Chilton
1978 Mazda GLC Repair Manual Chilton

P311-54ED5D6    46800  New

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1978 - Mazda GLC United States Sport
Chilton
1987 Mazda B2200 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-5EE2456    46602  New

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1987 - Mazda B2200 United States LX
Chilton
2001 Mazda B2300 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-2168E78    26689  New

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2001 - Mazda B2300 United States SX
Chilton
2004 Mazda Miata Repair Manual Chilton

P311-5078174    46550  New

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Brand: Chilton
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2004 - Mazda Miata United States Mazdaspeed
Haynes
2004 Mazda Tribute Repair Manual Haynes

P311-33781B0    36022  New

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2004 - Mazda Tribute United States LX
Haynes
2012 Mazda MX-5 Miata Repair Manual Haynes

P311-2421E84    61016  New

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2012 - Mazda MX-5 Miata United States Grand Touring
Haynes
1991 Mazda 626 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-2E3F050    61041  New

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1991 - Mazda 626 United States LX
Haynes
1999 Mazda 626 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-2B9EC5E    61042  New

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1999 - Mazda 626 United States LX
Haynes
2001 Mazda B2300 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-4C67EE2    36071  New

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2001 - Mazda B2300 United States SX
Haynes
2001 Mazda B2300 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-494892E    99089  New

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2001 - Mazda B2300 United States SX
Haynes
1990 Mazda MPV Repair Manual Haynes

P311-5D4D0A8    61020  New

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1990 - Mazda MPV United States Cargo
Haynes
1991 Mazda Navajo Repair Manual Haynes

P311-4037251    36024  New

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1991 - Mazda Navajo United States LX
Haynes
1986 Mazda RX-7 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-5EF76F9    61036  New

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1986 - Mazda RX-7 United States GXL
Chilton
2004 Mazda 3 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-1B0871F    46804  New

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2004 - Mazda 3 United States S
Haynes
1975 Mazda B1600 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-358818E    61030  New

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1975 - Mazda B1600 United States Base
Haynes
1982 Mazda B2200 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-358818E    61030  New

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1982 - Mazda B2200 United States Sundowner Base
Haynes
2004 Mazda 3 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-3AB24D3    61012  New

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Latest Mazda Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

87 Mazda RX7 overheated but was running when I parked it now it won't start

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From mymymy1960 on 87 Mazda RX7 overheated but was running when I parked it now it won't start

I have a 1987 Mazda RX7 it has a 13b rotary motor with 121,000 miles on it i was driving back from Boston about 120 miles and the temp gauge kept rise and lowwering about 80 miles into the drive it overheated and I stopped to let the motor cool I had just changed the heater hose and antifreeze and had a gallon of water in the car just in case I had an issue a few months earlier with a leak in the same hose and shortened it and was on my way after it cooled down now 4 months later it overheated again this time no leak after it cooled and refilled radiator I drove about 12 miles and it overheated again I repeated cooling it down and replaceing radiator fluid with water this went on a few more times till I got home it was running when I parked in the yard but was very hot now it won't start is the mootor cooked it still turns over and sounds like it wants to start and it actually started for about 20 seconds till I took my foot off the acelerator now all it does is turns over I pulled the plugs and changed the oil and stuck my finger in the spark plug holes and it seems to have compression any suggestions on what else I might be able to do it was a great running motor until this happened

Response From mymymy1960

I admit I don't know much about rotary motors but I do have a manuel for the vehicle and I was able to look up some things online about them and it was suggested as a quick check to remove the lowwer spark plugs and to hold your finger over the spark plug hole and to have someone else turn over the motor and watch the timing mark on the cam shaft pully that you should feel 3 puffs of air come out of that cylinder per revolution of the pulley and then it explained how to check the compression with a tester and gave the psi for a good through a not so good reading on the compression gage by the way I didn't lose the tip of my finger lol. Next step. Is to find a mechanic that work can on these motors it was a little difficult finding one on Labor Day weekend and the nearest Mazda dealership is 30 miles away but that will be my last resort I bought parts there resently and paid through the nose for them but that's the price you pay for haveing a car like this and I will take the advive about finding someone qualified to work on the motor

Response From zmame

The engine will more then likely need to be torn down and inspected.. You need a special compression tester to test compression in a rotory.. you can use a conventional tester if you take the shrader valve out and watch for 3 consecutive beats.. but it's not as accurate.
On the rotor of the rotory engines there are side seals (sort of like piston rings). You more likely fried those seals when you overheated your engine.

Response From Hammer Time

You will need a compression tester to test the compression properly.
A engine needs compression,spark,fuel to run, one of the three is missing.
Do a fuel pressure test also and check for spark.

Apparently Mr Scotty doesn't realize that this is a rotary engine and conventional compression testers cannot be used.
Why am I not surprised?

Response From Discretesignals

Well, he did state compression tester. He didn't state conventional compression tester, so he probably was generalizing.

stuck my finger in the spark plud holes

How far would you have to stick your finger in there till one of the rotors takes the tip of your finger off?

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

Thanks DS yeah I was generalizing.
I am actually big into mazdas and I know rx-7's and rx-8's are both a 1.3 liter rotary engine.
I own two 80's mazdas.
I also have a repair manual for this exact car.

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, sure he was.

Response From Discretesignals

You never know. He might be a master rotary technician.

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, sure he is

Response From Mr.scotty

You will need a compression tester to test the compression properly.
A engine needs compression,spark,fuel to run, one of the three is missing.
Do a fuel pressure test also and check for spark.

94 Mazda 626, unexpected pressure in engine

Showing 3 out of 20 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From Norder on 94 Mazda 626, unexpected pressure in engine

I have a 94 Mazda 626, either ES or LX model, with the 2.5L V6 KL-DE engine, according to what research I've done on it, and what I saw posted on this site, it isn't an interference type engine. With that understanding I have been going about trying to replace my timing belt. It seized when one of the regular idler? pulley's bent off alignment and the belt chewed into the plastic casing as I was attempting to start the car and/or right after it started and I tried to back up. After much hassle with many a frozen bolt, I finally got it all removed and was ready to align the camshafts to TDC #1. It is a DOHC motor and my problem is when I attempted to rotate the front camshaft (side-mounted engine) that is connected to the distributor, pressure built up against the ratchet I was using. I had already removed the spark plugs. It rotated between a quarter and a half turn before the pressure built until I couldn't turn it further without fear of breaking something, and when released it spun back into place as if it had been a wound spring. Someone suggested the pistons needed to be in neutral position and perhaps they were contacting when I attempted to rotate the camshaft, but it didn't stop the rotation as if hitting something but acted as if I were fighting against a high tension spring. With the spark plugs out, it was my understanding the pressure wouldn't build. The crankshaft is at the marking for TDC #1 already. The camshafts need to be before I can install a new belt, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

That's just the valve pressure sliding off high cam,........ completely normal.

Response From Norder

That is a relief to hear, but in that case how do I proceed to align the camshafts? Do I need to release that pressure somehow? If I attempt to force it the camshaft simply rotates back to where it was and the pressure is fairly extreme so how would I make it not counter-rotate so it can be aligned? Thanks for the quick response btw.

Response From Hammer Time

Welcome to my world. They make tools to hold the gears in place but that's part of doing a timing belt, dealing with stuff like that.

Response From Norder

Any advice then? Will forcing it to turn past that pressure be a problem? Currently it won't even turn halfway before that pressure is damned near solid, and instructions in repair manual suggest breaker bar but I need to know if I will cause damage forcing it. How would I even rotate the entire engine twice once the timing belt is installed to test the timing mark alignment as the manual instructs if the camshafts don't rotate really?

Response From Hammer Time

My advice is to give this job to a professional. You don't have sufficient experience with timing belts and may end up doing damage to something.

Response From Norder

I knew that from the beginning when I embarked on attempting to replace the timing belt. Had six different mechanics flake on me and the car itself isn't worth sinking any more real money into. If I cannot manage this repair myself then the car is going to pick-n-pull as it's been a real money pit. Or some sort of scrap yard. Please reconsider some of my questions or point me to someone who will because a professional is no longer an option.

Response From Hammer Time

Aligning a timing belt is something that comes with practice and experience. Not something I can type to you.

Response From Norder Top Rated Answer

I have clear instructions in my repair manual and as far as actually aligning the belt I believe that the markings should be enough. There's just the problem of the camshafts not turning. If this is normal pressure then can I remove the valve cover and do something to release that pressure so the camshafts will simply rotate as I wish? If not then am I to force it to rotate with a breaker bar and use a helper tool to hold it in position once I do, and will the cams forcefully rotate the engine once I install the new belt and remove the piston holder? I've done some research and can find no one mentioning this problem whatsoever besides a warning of not letting the cam and crank move independently of each other which was impossible since the timing belt was seized and had to be removed beforehand. I don't need help or an explanation about how to do timing belts, just addressing this one issue with the camshafts and I can deal with the results and/or consequences. I have to try, or else six grand of what I've put into this car turns into two-hundred bucks scrap.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What are you? The King of the run on sentence? Have you been to school at all?

T

Response From Norder

I don't know, maybe it has something to do with the total lack of information in any response I've received past the first. Perhaps by going over points, repeatedly, in different ways, will get some better response than 'you can't jackass'. Which is all Hammer Time has for me so far. I'd really rather a lack of responses than anything but the info I'm asking for. Thanks for your interest.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't shoot the messenger if you don't want to hear the truth. You don't know what you're doing and shouldn't be messing with it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Norder - sorry from me. You are as welcome here as anyone and I'll leave it to Hammer to keep me in line. Smile bros,

Tom

Response From Norder

Thanks Tom, and no problem, it's just frustration over the vehicle. I knew from the beginning that there was a high chance I wouldn't be able to replace the timing belt. Or I'd make it worse. Still, I would have paid a pretty penny to find out what I have on my own. If I just understood how to deal with the cam pressure I feel that I could finish the job considering how far along I came. The repair is a simple matter of removing a broken off bolt for the idler pulley. Took me a week to get the belt off nearly, mostly due to lack of the proper tools. Telling me I shouldn't be doing this isn't helpful since I'm telling you it will be scrapped otherwise. If I mess the car up, I am in no worse position than I am right now, about to sell it to pick-n-pull. You don't have to explain if you don't want to, but hell I see people answering such general questions online as 'how to change a timing belt' and they actually get some responses. I just want the cam pressure resolutions.

Response From Hammer Time

You have already been told on 2 different sights that is normal and you just have to deal with it. When the cam lobe tries to open the valve, the spring pressure pushes back.

Response From Norder

Back to useful discussion, thank you. I spoke to a mechanic who runs his own shop locally and he thought the pressure was more than it ought to be from my descriptions. If this is normal pressure, even though it becomes almost impossible to turn it using a ratchet, then it sounds like I just use a breaker bar to push past it. In other folks instructions they mentioned attaching a couple open wrenches to the camshafts and clamping them together to prevent movement. The more I read though, the more it seems the pressure is more than it should be. Might I be on TDC exhaust stroke instead of compression and that is causing the piston to valve pressure? The pressure is so great that I believe turning the crankshaft after belt installation won't turn the camshafts accordingly. The resistance on the crank is less than the cam. Shall I 360 degree the crankshaft and try the cams again? Even people who have done multiple timing belts don't seem to know, they say the pressure shouldn't be so great.

Response From Hammer Time

If it's spongy pressure, it's normal. If you hit anything solid, there is a problem.

Response From Norder

Thanks. I spoke to a Mazda tech and he confirmed what you said about that pressure. He did have a suggestion however, if I removed the valve cover and use a wrench inside as opposed to turning it with the camshaft bolt then I can successfully rotate the camshaft without snapping anything. He said if I attempted to rotate it using the camshaft bolt past that pressure that I would cause damage. I am going to get that cover off now, but if this advice sounds solid to you I would appreciate confirmation and the specific portion of the camshaft that I should rotate with the wrench. If you don't know then I'll research further.

Response From Hammer Time

That's a lot of extra work and probably not necessary. There will be a square spot on the cam that you can slip an open end wrench if you do take that route. Moving the cam isn't your big problem. It's trying to hold it in place while installing the belt. You'll end up pretty frustrated.

Response From Norder

I found the square on the camshaft itself about 1/3 of the way in from the cam pulley. It's the only one so I assume that is it. I'm thinking of removing the air intake so I can get the back valve cover as well, since the rear camshaft has the same built up pressure. That is more work, where as removing the front valve cover was simple. What if I use two open wrenches and clamp them together as others suggested? Someone even said zip ties but somehow I doubt that will hold. Still worried about forcing past that pressure. Maybe it won't be so intense at the square. I keep thinking I'm going to cause piston/valve damage if I force it but it's non-interference so should be alright by the way you keep telling me it's all normal. About to move forward with the repair so any info on those points would help a lot. More work doesn't concern me, being successful or finding out it's time to scrap the heap are my only goals.

I've seen multiple suggestions of a bolt or proper sized drill bit inserted in a specific area will also lock the cams in place.