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2003 Lincoln Town Car Repair Manual Haynes - Lincoln Town Car, '70-'10

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1994 Lincoln Continental Repair Manual Haynes - Lincoln Town Car, '70-'10

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Latest Lincoln Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 lincoln con. rear suspension

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From jcool73 on 1993 lincoln con. rear suspension

1993 lincoln continental
3.8 engine
milage unknown at this time (assume high)

the suspension in the rear has went out of my car i am trying to figure out what part and/or parts of the suspension system can cause this so that my husband and iknow what to check and/ or replace. obviously we have not had to deal with a suspension issue before and our repair manual does not trouble shoot this issue.

Response From Sidom

Lots of great advise as usual going on here..... The only thing I will add to the list is to check the 50 amp maxi fuse under the hood.

Response From Hammer Time

It will have to be troubleshooted but the most common thing to happen is the bags themselves rot out and start leaking which in turn burns out the pump from running too much.

Response From jcool73 Top Rated Answer


It will have to be troubleshooted but the most common thing to happen is the bags themselves rot out and start leaking which in turn burns out the pump from running too much.



where would i locate the bags and the pump to check them? i have part of the vehicle torn apart right now and may be able to locate some of the issues quickly.

Response From Hammer Time

The air bags are part of the struts. The compressor should be behind the left headlamp, down low and the control module is in the left side of the trunk.

Response From jcool73


The air bags are part of the struts. The compressor should be behind the left headlamp, down low and the control module is in the left side of the trunk.


what is the best way to test to see if the problem is the control module?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

jcool; If it turns out to be the air bags, there are conventional type strut replacements available. This is a very expensive type system to 'fix'.

Response From Hammer Time

There are a lot of aftermarket replacements available whether you want to convert to springs or replace the air bags.

Here are some

http://www.strutmasters.com/lincoln-1988-1994-continental-suspension-s/167.htm

http://www.suncoreindustries.com/english-lincoln-continental-88-94-air-suspension.html

Response From Hammer Time

That's going to require a scan tool. To get started, see if the pump runs and if not, if it's receiving power and ground. There is also a level sensor in the back. Make sure that is connected and not broken.

Window riser

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Jim Dunn on Window riser

I have a 2000 Lincoln LS. It has been mostly setting in my garage for the last year because I bought another car on the CLUNKER deal. I got the LS out and was checking everything out so I could offer it for sale when the right rear window operator seemed to make a loud snap as if a belt might have broken and now the window will not work up and down. Could someone tell me how to remove all the inside of the door panels so I might gain access to be able to repair this problem? Thanks

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I'm away from my database but the rear doors usually arent too bad. Remove all the screws you can see (look carefully at the bottom) and most the time there are push clips holding the panel on. It takes a little force to pop them out. You can carefully pull the panel back a bit and look in between the door and panel and see if you can see them before pulling to hard

I believe the autozone web site has a repair manual section, you can look there for the panel removal and there may be a picture......

Engine turns over with no start and no power to the key accessories

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From tab100 on Engine turns over with no start and no power to the key accessories

Hello All,
I have 1989 Lincoln Mark VII that won't start and anything related to the car key accessories switch position also doesn't work. Items like power window I believe the wiper and radio etc. I have had the battery tested (OK). Trunk light head lights and any that is on the hot battery buses works. Now the engine sound like it's going to start while turning the key but when you let go of the key she doesn't start or stay running.

Thank you for your time and help!


Todd

Response From Tom Greenleaf

tab100: One post on same subject is enough - I deleted the other - too confusing with duplicates.

I guess first thing I'd do is check ign switch that is sends out power then on to relays but betting on ign switch. Most were recalled for the vintage,

T

Response From tab100

Thanks T for you help and sorry about two of the same posts I new using forms and I was not sure which subject to post my problem under.

Thank and I will delete the other one.

Todd

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Understood and welcome. It just gets confusing if a reply is made to one and bounce back and forth to see who suggested what.

While I'm here. Does key feel right? It should be pushing a rod down to ign switch which makes/enables things to get power. I would expect the items mentioned to work without ign intervention on this car anyway. As said, ign switches were trouble on many Ford products till newer and not sure what year it all was fixed and sold new with improved switches. The issue was they could short and I guess a couple fires happened and documented so all got recalled of a certain vintage/models.

Not so familiar with exactly how but you should be able to get at it by just removing some trim and use a test light. Constant power there, then when key to "run" should light another. If all looks intact and not burnt that's my suspect area for now. Others may have run across this exactly so hang in there,

T

Response From tab100 Top Rated Answer

I did try working the key around a bit and I seems like it has normal play. I think you right about the ign-switch because of the lack of no accessories and reviewing the fuse and circuit breaker table in the owner guide. I have to pickup a repair manual because I not sure of the locals of a couple of fuse links for the Load Circuit (Not sure it's duties).

I just read you last thread before finishing this thread and I don't know what fusible links look like or location. Other then the locations in the owners manual.

Todd

Response From Hammer Time

That was me that posted that. Fusible links are special "meltaway" wire that feeds the ignition switch and they are at the starter solenoid.

Response From tab100

Tom
I found some pictures of fusible links so I will check them. Now as far as the starter solenoid location, they are not on the starter these days? I believe the location is on the firewall.

This is the first car I have been able to work on since my 65 Pontiac Catalina. There is plenty of room for my fat hand less part to takeoff to get to the problem.

Thank again Tom for all your help!

Todd

Response From Hammer Time

I am not Tom and I have already told you that the solenoid is next to the battery. Just follow the positive battery cable to it.

Response From tab100

I will check it thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just looked at an 89 Town Car which may be very similar. Wires at the solenoid right near the battery as Hammer Time said had at least one black wire from a box that even I don't know what is, going into a small connector box MARKED FUSIBLE LINK! Then went on to a yellow high gauge wire and onto oblivion. Not even sure but other wires there too - look for evidence,

Tom - smile and I'm not Hammer..........

Response From tab100

Yes Tom, You description of the small connector box sound similar to the one on the MVII. I found one fuse link but not sure if it's blow because it's rape tight between the fender and that small connector box. I just don't have anymore time today to work on the car, I will be up early tomorrow and keep everyone up to date on my progress.

Thanks
Tom and H. T.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's why I said the wire went off into oblivion! All the connections there need be good as said.........

Good luck isolating it and where power is lost. Hopefully it will make itself apparent. As HT said (I think) only use the same to replace if found blown.

FYI - those curly plastic wiring covers with tape can be opened and put back as they are split plastic. Ford used a lot of cheap tape around then of a fabric like stuff. Good electrical tape - check grade and temp range of tape (3M 34 or 700 or 88) marked Scotch by 3M has heat rating to ~ 221F. If you splice solder the splice is always best and shrink tube over that then put it all back in place,

Tom

Response From tab100

I think I have found the problem. I want to run this by you guys before I start to remove my steering wheel. 1st: The car turns over normally but will not run. 2nd: All accessories related to the accessories switch position do not work (radio, power windows, wipers, etc). 3nd:The radio, power windows, wipers, etc are all on different circuits and their fuses are all good. 4th:All items and accessories on (what we call in aviation) the hot battery buss work normally, power seats key-less entry trunk/hood courtesy lights etc. Your help has lead me to the ignition switch to be the root of the problem so I went to the auto parts store and looked up all replace me part relayed to the ignition switch and this is what I found.

There a $9.99 part call the Engine Management and Ignition PART #LS514 ALT PART #3528 Made by Wellstech (www.wellsVE.com and through the “Wellstech” channel at www.YouTube.com).

These are the symptoms they list is the part has failed:

  • Ignition starter switch directs current from the fuse panel to other systems in the vehicle.
  • When not replaced, vehicle may experience no-start, intermittent shut down and/or current will not flow to all systems.
  • Please tell me what you think! In mean time I will be looking for information on how to correctly remove my steering wheel to replace this part.

    Thanks Todd

    Response From Hammer Time

    Have you checked the fusible links or not?

    Response From tab100

    Hello HT,

    I did not check all the fuse links because of additional information I received from THE LINCOLN MARK VII CLUB that stated all MK7 models older than 1990 must have their Ignition switch replace because they are faulty and may cause fires. Also I can smell a lite burnt smell near the Ignition switch.

    Todd


    link removed

    Response From Hammer Time

    You can't very well condemn an ignition switch if you don't even know if it's receiving power or not. Yes, all Ford had an ignition switch overload problem but that doesn't mean they all failed.

    Response From tab100

    I said before the car crank over but would not run. It turns out when I removed and inspected the old Engine management and ignition module it was falling apart. Problem is solved...

    Thank you for your help,


    Todd

    Response From Hammer Time

    That's not even close to your original question and symptoms. The ignition module has absolutely nothing to do with all those functions.


    won't start and anything related to the car key accessories switch position also doesn't work. Items like power window I believe the wiper and radio etc.

    Response From tab100

    Come on Hammer Time if I listen to you, my car would be on fire in a few days! Tom pointed me to the Ignition system. Common sense tell me that Tom has a good connection on so best Lobster from Boston.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Oh really? So, you're telling me that replacing an ignition module made your windows, wipers and radio work, huh? That's a good trick.

    Response From Mr.scotty

    Tab100 don't know what he's talking about don't let him get to ya man!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    They just look like wire that will wrinkle up and blow like a fuse,

    T

    Response From Hammer Time

    Check all the fusible links coming off the starter solenoid, next to the battery. Pull on each one and if any stretch, they are burnt out. Replace any burnt ones with "fuse wire" only.