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The battery is fine, it is new.

The issue here is that the starter motor itself is in need of a clean and maintenance. I have never done a starter motor
before.

It could be that the solenoid needs a clean.
Something to do with the brushes.

Any help is appreciated.

ie. Are there safety precautions?

Should I use grease, degreaser etc...

Kia starters are a cheaper type like a lot of newer cars, and were never designed for maintenance. If they work, you run them. When they fail, replace with new. I have never heard of a starter maintenance schedule for any type of vehicle ever.

Starter motors are intended to be maintenance free. When they fail to perform is when they are either taken apart and rebuilt or replaced as a unit. Back in the old days mechanics used to rebuild starters when they failed for some reason. Since a reman starter is cheaper than paying a repair shop technician to overhaul one, most customers opt to replace the unit unless it is some special or rare starter.

The best thing you can give your starter is a good supply of current when it asks for it. That means making sure your battery and electrical connections can deliver what the starter needs. Also making sure your starter isn't getting contaminated by engine oil leaks is helpful in making sure it has a long service life. Another thing to consider is making sure your engine doesn't have problems that makes the starter motor run longer than intended during cranking.

I once had problems with a Bosch starting motor. The problem was the clutch at the Bendix. The clutch, a rubber disk in a "Donat"housing. was slipping, because it was full of grease. I opened the housing and cleaned the inner part. It worked fine after that.

Donat housing? Isn't there supposed to be lubrication in a one way clutch?

Great idea. That should solve all your problems. It may even create world peace too.

You do realize you are talking to professional techs, right?

The battery is fine, it is new.

The issue here is that the starter motor itself is in need of a clean and maintenance.

How do you know the battery is fine? Do you think new batteries never fail?

Where did you come up with the nonsense about the starter? Did you make that up yourself?

When ever your diagnosing a starting system fault the first thing you usually do is have the battery tested and to make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. If the battery is weak or the cabling has a high resistive connection to the battery, your other system tests are going to be affected.

Sounds like Tom is right on the money on this one....

There isn't any other history here, is there, like try to jump it and getting a bunch of sparks????

Also, do you think it could be the alternator? It's been suggested a few times by some coworkers.

It's very possible you could have a charging issue going on..... The main thing now is to get it to start. Barring getting any cables crossed or anything like that and Tom's info should lead you to the problem...

After you get it going, just put a voltmeter on the battery & note the voltage, start it up and look at it again. With it off it should be in the 12.3 to 12. 6 range, running you would want to see it in the 14v range.

Ok, since I'm on my own right now, and a lot of this is new for me, do you guys think you can help me with a step by step?

Lets keep it simple...........You said there was corrosion on the battery before.....Unless you got it real clean, this could be your whole problem.

Start off with getting one these, a battery terminal cleaner



Disconnect both terminals and clean the inside of the terminals real good and the battery posts as well..

Even though I know you've done this, I gotta say it any way,,,,,make sure the plastic caps on the battery posts of the new battery have been removed....... and we'll go from there...

Yes - really clean as tool Sidom showed, other wire brushes for other areas/connections. Grease with either battery cable connections or whole new cables if rotted too much - either end or some cheap junk wire can give out inside insulation unseen - may be stretchy at a spot, trauma from other work - who knows you need to know they are all good.

This is ever more common and about no exception car makers want the least gauge of anything that can work. Good old lead and fine stranded copper are not found like they used to be,

T

PS: Re: Subject line - "Mystery Start up Issue" no mystery - this is common!

The clamps are clean and there is zero corrosion now. But just to return to an earlier statement, I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it? What should I do with the positive clamp?

I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it?
NO!!!!....never!!!!!.......I looked real quick for that quote & couldn't find it,,,,please post that quote so I can go in and change it.... Ok...before moving on 2 things......Take the new battery out & have it load tested (I have seen bad batteries......right off the shelve) and then, even though there is no corrosion, clean the cables and post.... Slower is sometimes faster.

"simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out,"

Im assuming I just read it wrong...

This was a test to check the grounds. Tom was talking about using a test light......Most of the time test lights are used to check for power but can also be used to check grounds....

To check grounds you hook the clip of the test light to the positive terminal of the battery. Then any metal piece you touch will light up the light.
With that setup, if you touch the engine block, the light would light up indicating a ground connection. When the key is turned, if the light goes out, that would indicate a bad ground circuit and would be where your trouble lies.....

Could it be the alternator?

That question has been asked and answered.

But just to return to an earlier statement, I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it?

HELL NO! It could blow up in your face or at least do a lot of damage to your car.

No worries, I didn't. But in all honestly I can't figure out what was implied up there.

No sparks. But there were a few times where the car just wouldn't start but when I tried again it would start up just fine. There was some corrosion on the battery and I've cleaned that up. I'll give what Tom suggested a try, but I have to wait till morning. It's already dark here and I don't have a good light to work in.

Do you get voltage at the other ends of battery cables generally at starter for positive and block for negative, then ground straps to body metal here and there throughout.

Many checks to find and probably something silly. Check battery voltage itself at posts not clamps and again at clamps. Begin with the simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out,

T

This is an interference engine; so I think you probably only have about a 10% chance that the valves are not bent.
Without taking some of the valve train apart; the easiest way to find out if there are bent valves, would be too time the engine and stick a new belt on. Cross your fingers and try starting it; you’ll only loose the cost of the belt and your time?
Don’t worry about the water pump (unless it was the cause of the belt breaking), until you’ve proven the engine is still ok; you can always take it back apart to do the pump later?

Dan.

Thanks alot. Do you happen to know the best way to check the valve prior to the belt install. and what the best way to time the engine ( are there marks to line up???) Again thanks for your time

Sorry Dan
Autozone doesnt have repair info on the 95 sportage


Jim

Thanks Jim

Hey Dan. Alldatapro does not list a sportage for 1995. Only the Sephia. Sorry.

Autozones website has instructions for alot of repairs.

Beware that there is a lot of incorrect info in the Autozone site, a lot like the advice they spew over the counter in their stores.

I strongly suggest you get a manual for this one..
These have whats known as an auto tensioner..
The tensioner has to come off and be checked to see if its ok,(with a certain spec)..and if ok,reset in a vise
There is a certain procedure for this and if you haven't done it before,read up on it first.
There is also a chance the belt can be overtightened when installing it if not done correctly.

Make sure you read up on this because it is an interference engine,meaning the valves and the pistons can contact(damage) if cams are turned incorrectly...

Hope that helps

Thanks, that does help, so far manuals for this car do not seem to exist.

Alldata sells yearly subscriptions for around 25$.