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2009 Kia Optima Repair Manual Chilton - Kia Optima, 2001-10

P311-2CD1E9A    42980  New

  • Chilton Manual
  • Kia Optima, 2001-10
Brand: Chilton
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
2009 - Kia Optima LX United States
  • Chilton Manual
  • Kia Sephia (94-01) Spectra (00-09) & Sportage (05-10)
Brand: Chilton
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
2007 - Kia Spectra SX United States
2005 Kia Spectra Repair Manual Haynes - Kia Sephia, Spectra & Sportage, '94-'10

P311-07ADCD2    54070  New

  • Haynes Manual
  • Kia Sephia, Spectra & Sportage, '94-'10
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region
2005 - Kia Spectra EX United States

Latest Kia Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice


Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts

Greetings from Australia

i have a KIA Pregio 2005 I use for work.

The issue here is that when I turn the ignition the Van usually
takes a few turns before the starter motor kicks in.

I suppose I am wandering if anyone knows a good starter motor maintenance guide, a link or any tips on how to maintain a starter motor.

Its going to be hot this summer again and the van is always good for camping making sure it runs shit hot.

Response From ThePrimeShot

The battery is fine, it is new.

The issue here is that the starter motor itself is in need of a clean and maintenance. I have never done a starter motor

It could be that the solenoid needs a clean.
Something to do with the brushes.

Any help is appreciated.

ie. Are there safety precautions?

Should I use grease, degreaser etc...

Response From nickwarner

Kia starters are a cheaper type like a lot of newer cars, and were never designed for maintenance. If they work, you run them. When they fail, replace with new. I have never heard of a starter maintenance schedule for any type of vehicle ever.

Response From ThePrimeShot

Yes you would of,

every car repair manual printed will have a starter motor
section inside. A repair manual will cost about 60 dollars brand new.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

A crappy Haynes manual is about $20. A factory repair manual goes anywhere from $150-$500 depending on the source. though alldata has eliminated the need to purchase them now. Look in any manual you like, there is no starter maintenance schedule. Never will be. They make these components stamped and crimped so hard that you would wreck them taking the apart. Manuals will give a troubleshooting flowchart for a starter to determine if its the issue and guide the user through the replacement. Its not the tin man from the wizard of oz, you don't get rid of the squeaks with an oil can and call it good til the next rainstorm.

Response From Discretesignals

Starter motors are intended to be maintenance free. When they fail to perform is when they are either taken apart and rebuilt or replaced as a unit. Back in the old days mechanics used to rebuild starters when they failed for some reason. Since a reman starter is cheaper than paying a repair shop technician to overhaul one, most customers opt to replace the unit unless it is some special or rare starter.

The best thing you can give your starter is a good supply of current when it asks for it. That means making sure your battery and electrical connections can deliver what the starter needs. Also making sure your starter isn't getting contaminated by engine oil leaks is helpful in making sure it has a long service life. Another thing to consider is making sure your engine doesn't have problems that makes the starter motor run longer than intended during cranking.

Response From oddgca

I once had problems with a Bosch starting motor. The problem was the clutch at the Bendix. The clutch, a rubber disk in a "Donat"housing. was slipping, because it was full of grease. I opened the housing and cleaned the inner part. It worked fine after that.

Response From Discretesignals

Donat housing? Isn't there supposed to be lubrication in a one way clutch?

Response From Hammer Time

Great idea. That should solve all your problems. It may even create world peace too.

Response From Hammer Time

You do realize you are talking to professional techs, right?

Response From Hammer Time

The battery is fine, it is new.

The issue here is that the starter motor itself is in need of a clean and maintenance.

How do you know the battery is fine? Do you think new batteries never fail?

Where did you come up with the nonsense about the starter? Did you make that up yourself?

Response From Discretesignals

When ever your diagnosing a starting system fault the first thing you usually do is have the battery tested and to make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. If the battery is weak or the cabling has a high resistive connection to the battery, your other system tests are going to be affected.

2006 Kia rio5 mystery startup issue

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Kingapplesauce on 2006 Kia rio5 mystery startup issue

I honestly feel I've tried everything I'm capable of the only thing that comes on in the car is the door ajar light; no head lights, no interior lights, no engine cranking, no nothing, just the door ajar light. And when I turn the key the door ajar light turns off completely. I've replaced the battery and checked all the relays and nada. Any ideas? I'd love for this thing to start .

Response From Sidom

Sounds like Tom is right on the money on this one....

There isn't any other history here, is there, like try to jump it and getting a bunch of sparks????

Response From Kingapplesauce

Also, do you think it could be the alternator? It's been suggested a few times by some coworkers.

Response From Sidom

It's very possible you could have a charging issue going on..... The main thing now is to get it to start. Barring getting any cables crossed or anything like that and Tom's info should lead you to the problem...

After you get it going, just put a voltmeter on the battery & note the voltage, start it up and look at it again. With it off it should be in the 12.3 to 12. 6 range, running you would want to see it in the 14v range.

Response From Kingapplesauce

Ok, since I'm on my own right now, and a lot of this is new for me, do you guys think you can help me with a step by step?

Response From Sidom

Lets keep it simple...........You said there was corrosion on the battery before.....Unless you got it real clean, this could be your whole problem.

Start off with getting one these, a battery terminal cleaner

Disconnect both terminals and clean the inside of the terminals real good and the battery posts as well..

Even though I know you've done this, I gotta say it any way,,,,,make sure the plastic caps on the battery posts of the new battery have been removed....... and we'll go from there...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - really clean as tool Sidom showed, other wire brushes for other areas/connections. Grease with either battery cable connections or whole new cables if rotted too much - either end or some cheap junk wire can give out inside insulation unseen - may be stretchy at a spot, trauma from other work - who knows you need to know they are all good.

This is ever more common and about no exception car makers want the least gauge of anything that can work. Good old lead and fine stranded copper are not found like they used to be,


PS: Re: Subject line - "Mystery Start up Issue" no mystery - this is common!

Response From Kingapplesauce

The clamps are clean and there is zero corrosion now. But just to return to an earlier statement, I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it? What should I do with the positive clamp?

Response From Sidom

I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it?
NO!!!!....never!!!!!.......I looked real quick for that quote & couldn't find it,,,,please post that quote so I can go in and change it.... Ok...before moving on 2 things......Take the new battery out & have it load tested (I have seen bad batteries......right off the shelve) and then, even though there is no corrosion, clean the cables and post.... Slower is sometimes faster.

Response From Kingapplesauce

"simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out,"

Im assuming I just read it wrong...

Response From Sidom

This was a test to check the grounds. Tom was talking about using a test light......Most of the time test lights are used to check for power but can also be used to check grounds....

To check grounds you hook the clip of the test light to the positive terminal of the battery. Then any metal piece you touch will light up the light.
With that setup, if you touch the engine block, the light would light up indicating a ground connection. When the key is turned, if the light goes out, that would indicate a bad ground circuit and would be where your trouble lies.....

Response From Kingapplesauce

Could it be the alternator?

Response From Hammer Time

That question has been asked and answered.

Response From Hammer Time

But just to return to an earlier statement, I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it?

It could blow up in your face or at least do a lot of damage to your car.

Response From Kingapplesauce

No worries, I didn't. But in all honestly I can't figure out what was implied up there.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

I think it would be a great idea for you to go pick up a repair manual for your car.
You'll learn stuff and it will help you with your problem, the Haynes manuals you can buy at most parts stores have a trouble shooter guide in them too that might help you.

Response From Kingapplesauce

No sparks. But there were a few times where the car just wouldn't start but when I tried again it would start up just fine. There was some corrosion on the battery and I've cleaned that up. I'll give what Tom suggested a try, but I have to wait till morning. It's already dark here and I don't have a good light to work in.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Do you get voltage at the other ends of battery cables generally at starter for positive and block for negative, then ground straps to body metal here and there throughout.

Many checks to find and probably something silly. Check battery voltage itself at posts not clamps and again at clamps. Begin with the simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out,


95 Kia Sportage Broke Timing Belt

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From jkostur on 95 Kia Sportage Broke Timing Belt

I looking into buying a 1995 Kia Sportage for $150 but need a new timing belt. Looks Easy enough to replace but What i'm wondering what else should I check (Valves, Water Pump, Plugs, ETC) Is there likely damage to the Valves????? should I go ahead and replace the water pump while im in there Maybe use car as planter????. NOt sure, so if anyone has steps I should follow and things to check Please let me know. Thanks

Alittle info. My friend was driving at low turning corner speed when belt went and car died and was towed. I'm thinking Valves might be ok. But again Any input would be great.

Response From DanD

This is an interference engine; so I think you probably only have about a 10% chance that the valves are not bent.
Without taking some of the valve train apart; the easiest way to find out if there are bent valves, would be too time the engine and stick a new belt on. Cross your fingers and try starting it; you’ll only loose the cost of the belt and your time?
Don’t worry about the water pump (unless it was the cause of the belt breaking), until you’ve proven the engine is still ok; you can always take it back apart to do the pump later?


Response From jkostur

Thanks alot. Do you happen to know the best way to check the valve prior to the belt install. and what the best way to time the engine ( are there marks to line up???) Again thanks for your time

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Like I said you would have to remove some of the valve train components to allow all the valves to be closed and then apply air pressure to the cylinders through the spark plug holes. If there was a large amount of air escaping into the intake manifold or exhaust manifold, you would know that there is bent valve(s).
By the time you got all that apart, ie: the camshaft and or rocker arms off you’d be able to have a new belt on and just try the thing.
Yes there are specific marks and procedures to go through to timing an engine and installing the belt.
It’s not real hard to do but it needs to be done properly the first time or you will bend valves.
The best advice I can give you, is to buy some time on Mitchell on demand or all-data repair manual web sites. Read up on the procedures and print off all the information and diagrams they have to offer.
I’m not sure because we don’t have auto zone here in Canada and I have my own manuals but I’ve seen some of the regular people here post links to their site and it was good repair information.

Hey guys, is there a link to auto zone to help this person out?

I would help you out with my info but the RCMP (Mounties) get a little upset when you disregard copyright laws. LOL


Response From Double J

Sorry Dan
Autozone doesnt have repair info on the 95 sportage


Response From jkostur

Thanks Jim

Response From way2old

Hey Dan. Alldatapro does not list a sportage for 1995. Only the Sephia. Sorry.

Response From jkostur

Thanks Dan. I see what you mean I guess I will just try my luck and throw on a belt and see what happens. Now my next task is to find a repair manual for the sportage. Again thanks for your time I do appreciate it


Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From tes on strring

hello everyone and happy new year, this is a 2002 kia sedona 3.5 any ideas how to replace the power strring pump and the location. it looks like way at the back of the engine.
thank you and God bless.

Response From GC

Autozones website has instructions for alot of repairs.

Response From Hammer Time

Beware that there is a lot of incorrect info in the Autozone site, a lot like the advice they spew over the counter in their stores.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

Posting how To replace the power STEERING pump, the step by step and diagrams would be lengthy and time consuming.
I suggest you take advantage of the auto repair manuals, online auto services, how to books and tutorials that you already paid for.
Visit your local PUBLIC library there are resources to guide you, ask for chilton manuals, motor manuals, online repair tutorials called ALLDATA, MITCHELLS on demand or EBSCO's AARC, the reference desk will be a big help

You paid for already

timing belt change

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From brads21 on timing belt change

2002 kia optima
4 cyl. 2.4L
I have taken the old timing belt out but I can not figure out how to loosen the belt tensioner and it is full out HELP


Response From Double J

I strongly suggest you get a manual for this one..
These have whats known as an auto tensioner..
The tensioner has to come off and be checked to see if its ok,(with a certain spec)..and if ok,reset in a vise
There is a certain procedure for this and if you haven't done it before,read up on it first.
There is also a chance the belt can be overtightened when installing it if not done correctly.

Make sure you read up on this because it is an interference engine,meaning the valves and the pistons can contact(damage) if cams are turned incorrectly...

Hope that helps

Response From brads21

Thanks, that does help, so far manuals for this car do not seem to exist.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Oh repair manuals do exist but they are no longer in book form; they are mostly all electronic.
If you’re in the US you should be able to buy time on the manufacturer’s web site; or that is what I believe?
Here in Canada I can access the sites of the manufactures and read all of their propaganda but as soon as they see a Canadian address I’m locked out, if I want to buy repair info.
Here the government hasn’t passed the same law the US has, forcing the manufacturers to make their repair information available to the general public. We have to go through people like Mitchell or All Data.
I have gone to an uncountable number of meetings, seminars and have signed petitions trying to get the government to move on this but it has all fallen on death ears.
So if by chance you ever hear anything regarding a movement called “RIGHT TO REPAIR” please support it anyway you can.
Here in Canada and a number of other Countries people can not get access to information on repairing their own vehicle from the manufacturer.

I know this hasn’t helped you with your question you have asked but I’m just trying to explain why you can’t find a “book” on your car. The manufacturers don’t want you to have one.


Response From way2old

Alldata sells yearly subscriptions for around 25$.