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Chilton
1971 Jeep CJ5 Repair Manual Chilton

P311-1CF442D    40202  New

Qty:
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Brand: Chilton
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1971 - Jeep CJ5 United States Base
Chilton
2004 Jeep Liberty Repair Manual Chilton

P311-3714836    40400  New

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$22.21
Brand: Chilton
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Vehicle Region Submodel
2004 - Jeep Liberty United States Limited
Chilton
2004 Jeep Wrangler Repair Manual Chilton

P311-351634F    40650  New

Qty:
$22.21
  • Does not include information specific to diesel engine models.
Brand: Chilton
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
2004 - Jeep Wrangler United States Unlimited
Chilton
1984 Jeep Cherokee Repair Manual Chilton

P311-5AD86F5    40602  New

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$22.21
Brand: Chilton
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Vehicle Region Submodel
1984 - Jeep Cherokee United States Base
Haynes
1961 Jeep CJ3 Repair Manual Haynes

P311-3571F06    50020  New

Qty:
$20.66
Brand: Haynes
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1961 - Jeep CJ3 United States Base
Haynes
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Repair Manual Haynes

P311-35E5423    50026  New

Qty:
$20.66
  • Does not include information specific to diesel engine models.
Brand: Haynes
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Vehicle Region Submodel
2012 - Jeep Grand Cherokee United States Limited
Haynes
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Repair Manual Haynes

P311-3B599A5    50025  New

Qty:
$20.66
Brand: Haynes
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2004 - Jeep Grand Cherokee United States Limited
Haynes
2004 Jeep Wrangler Repair Manual Haynes

P311-0AF6F80    50030  New

Qty:
$20.66
  • Does not include information specific to diesel engine models.
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
2004 - Jeep Wrangler United States Unlimited
Haynes
1984 Jeep Cherokee Repair Manual Haynes

P311-0F11EE5    50010  New

Qty:
$20.66
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
1984 - Jeep Cherokee United States Base
Haynes
2012 Jeep Liberty Repair Manual Haynes

P311-57DD561    50035  New

Qty:
$20.66
  • Does not include information specific to diesel models.
Brand: Haynes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Submodel
2012 - Jeep Liberty United States Limited

Latest Jeep Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 jeep cherokee country

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From autumn on 1993 jeep cherokee country

trying to replace turn signal/highbeam/windshield wiper wires and bar have steering wheel pulled but cant get the rest of the column apart to get inside is there some trick?

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

No trick just numerous steps plus dealing with the airbag. A repair manual will list steps and list special tools required.Do it wrong and it gets exspensive quick.

sensor find?

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From adiobampro369 on sensor find?

Does anyone know where the radiator sensor is at on a 85 jeep Cherokee. 2.5 liter engine.....its my dads jeep and he cant find it bc ppl tell him different places. thank you

Response From dmac0923

well i dont believe there is a sensor actually called a radiator sensor.

most vehicles have two sensors in the cooling system.

temp gage sending unit--- like name implies....tells the gauge in the dash what to display
coolant temp sensor---tells the computer the operating temp helps with cold/hot idle

i have seen some higher end/newer models with a sensor in the coolant overflow bottle/reservoir that displays an idiot light on the dash if your low on coolant.

Response From adiobampro369

Would ya'll happen to know where to find those two suggestions you gave me? he said on the dash the temp gauge reads when he first starts it up but then it jumps back down. The problem he is having is his radiator is pushing water into the reservoir and is over heating and wants to know what part to replace and where it is located?

Response From dmac0923

yea hold on, i used to have a 95 wrangler with the 2.5 engine. ill pull my chiltons manual and see if they show a pic. Jeep didnt change their engines (2.5 & 4.0) for YEARS.

Response From dmac0923

ok the temperature sending unit on the 2.5 4cyl is screwed into the cylinder head and should have 1 wire attached to the top of it at.

from the picture it looks like its on the drivers side rear of the motor

Response From dmac0923

i cant find it in the manual but if i remember correctly, there was a coolant temp sensor screwed into the thermostat housing. If yours isnt equipped youll probably just find a plugged "bung" for the sensor

Response From adiobampro369

thank you...it was plugged in the back of the motor. the wire got cut somehow and thats what it was...but my dad said he has the same book and your right it wasnt in there. do you know if he was to connect that wire and replace the thermostat, would it keep it from over heating? that was the problem he was having. but thank you again for the help.

Response From way2old

Replacing the thermostat is the least expensive of what you can do now. It is possible the thermostat is stuck shut causing the overflow and overheating. If it still does it after thermostat replacement, the cost will go up. Good luck.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


The problem he is having is his radiator is pushing water into the reservoir and is over heating and wants to know what part to replace and where it is located?



Oh, oh! Trouble with that is it suggests head gasket and combustion gasses are entering cooling system. Gauge readings may be correct for the condition - arggh!

T

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

whoops didnt read his post from start to finish............yea youve got a little more then just replacing sensors on your hands.

fortunately for you its a pushrod engine....no overhead cams to deal with. its a pretty straight forward repair on this engine and you also have plent of room in the engine compartment to work. pick up a repair manual at your local shop....im looking at mine infront of me and it has pretty decent instructions.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just what sensor are you looking for?

T

1998 Jeep Wrangler Turn Signal Problem

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From PW on 1998 Jeep Wrangler Turn Signal Problem

Hello all, I have been experiencing problems with my TJ's left turn signal but the right one works just fine. Here's what appears to be happening. You know how the turn signal has two operating modes? One that you use when stopped in a turn lane where it "clicks" into the flashing mode and off after the turn; and the other that you use to switch lanes that requires just a minimal bit of pressure to keep flashing? The "lane change" mode works fine but as soon as it clicks into the on position the flashing stops. It has gotten to the point that sometimes I just accept that the turn signal won't flash as there is nobody around to notify and proceed into the turn anyway. About 30% of the time as the steering wheel is turned the flasher might come on, albeit irregularly. This is more irritating than necessary to fix as I can always manually actuate the blinker but I feel as if I have lost one of the few emenities of this stripped down beast. I have also noticed that if the hazard switch is on at the same time as the turn signal lever is switched into left turn mode, the driver's side lights front and back fail to flash as well though they work if the turn lever is not utilized. Any help would be great.

I once tightened up and cleaned a wiring harness grond screw near the left front dash speaker and solved some other electrical problems but this one persists.

Vehicle Vitals:
1998 Jeep Wrangler
2.5L 4-cyl
4WD and 102,000 miles

Thanks!

PW

Response From tinyt1553 Top Rated Answer

Not sure if you ever found your answer. I have a 98 as well. Has the same problem. Mine generally will not flash when I have the left turn signal clicked all the way down and the brake peddle applied. like you have stated if I hold it down without clicking it, it works fine. Interesting isn't it. Also if I click it and continue to push down a bit harder, it seems to work fine but still has to be held. I replaced my turn signal swithc for about $35 at AutoZone and fixed the problem. Not a difficult process at all if you are a do it yourselfer. Pretty expensive at the repair shop though about $250, and the dealership was higher. I suggest grabbing a Chilton or Haynes Repair manual from your local parts store and both give full instructions on replacing the part. GOOD LUCK.

Response From Hammer Time

No, it doesn't have 2 modes. You're just not pushing it far enough to lock in. It makes contact early. It sounds like you have a bad turn signal switch. It's moving past the contacts.

CV Axle will not come out.

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From jsa7532 on CV Axle will not come out.

2003
Ford
Focus ZX3
2.0 DOHC
Automatic Transmission
85,100 Miles

I decided to change out my drivers side cv axle. I have taken off the wheel, removed the axle nut, loosened the three strut mounting nuts five turns, and used a puller to press out the driveaxle out of the hub. At this point the cv axle is left to be taken out of the transmission. I've tried to reach in and pull the cv axle out with my hands, used a pry bar for leverage to pop it out, used the pry bar and a hammer to use a bit more force, and used a rope with a slip knot to use repeated forceful jerks in hopes of getting it out. My Chilton repair manual suggest using a slide hammer. I have not been able to find one with the right attachment in order to use that method for removing the cv axle. Anything I have tried has not worked. I have taken the steps in the manual but nothing helps.

Is there something I am missing? Should the cv axle just pop out as the manual states? Do you have any other recommendations to get the driveaxle out of the transmission?

Thank you,
Jim

Response From Double J

If you do not have any luck removing it with a pry bar then go to Autozone,
Rent a Slide Hammer and purchase the adapter to pull the axle .Adapter is $20.00

/ OEM/FWD Axle Puller Adapter Price: $20.00
/ Part Number: 27058
Alternate Part Number: AZ977 AVAILABILITY: STORE PICK UP AVAILABLE Normally stocked at your local store. SHIP TO HOME AVAILABLE Ships within 2 business days. Eligible for FREE 2-Day Shipping
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Features & BenefitsOEM automotive specialty tools are designed to perform day after day in any environment. Our engineers design tools that maximize both performance and budget. OEM tools out-perform the competition time after time.

  • Use with OEM slide hammer #27033
  • Pull inner CV joints with hidden retaining rings form front wheel drive vehicles without damaging joints
  • Heat treated for strength
  • Black oxide finish to resist rust
  • Part Number: 27058 Weight: 1.05 lbs Warranty: 3 MO Application: Pull inner CV joints with hidden retaining rings form front wheel drive vehicles without damaging joints. Capacity (Tons): 0.25 Color/Finish: Black and Silver Package Contents: 1 FWD Puller Adapter Tool Material: Steel Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.

    Response From jsa7532 Top Rated Answer

    I have tried everything, bigger hammer, bigger pry bar, I even parked my Jeep next to it for an anchor to us my come-a-long and it just wanted to pull my car sideways. At this point I will try anything! I'm headed to Autozone to attempt the slide hammer with the adaptor.

    Response From jsa7532

    I went to Autozone and picked up the slide hammer and the attachment and after about ten pulls it was out.

    I want to thank you soooooo much. If it wasn't for this site, I would still be under the car using non G rated language beating away at it.

    Thank you again,

    Jim

    Response From Hammer Time

    Yes, a lot bigger bar. They take an extreme amount of force to release the lock ring that' holding it in. You need to get a very long prybar and get it under the C/V housing and pry against the trans housing. Give it a hard, snapping motion to pop it loose.

    Response From Mr.scotty

    A friend of mine made his own tool for this.
    He took a cheap harborfreight slidehammer and welded a vice grip on the end of it. I'm about to make my own soon.

    Can you manually move the blend door?

    Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From indy4192 on Can you manually move the blend door?

    1997 Ford Taurus/6 cylinder/3.0 OHV
    After checking everything that effects the heat in a car, I believe my problem is my blend door not moving the way it should to give me 100% heat. Everything else I checked out is what it is suppose to be and yet I have luke warm air coming out. Is there some "easy" way to move the blend door so that instead of getting luke warm, I get full heat? Tearing apart the dash isn't a real option, I just wondered if there was a way via going behind the glove compartment I can manually move the blend door to get the heat hotter?

    Response From frankster195 Top Rated Answer

    Hi, I have 2000 Ford p/u with trident v8 4.6 engine. I have the same problem, no heat but plenty of cold air. I was told that the blend assembly was bad. Will I went a bought a Chilton repair manual for a 1997- 2003 pick-ups/expendtion/navigator. The problem with that is that the book is not showing the same are that the blend door is located then where it really is. Any way it is located either under the dash beneath the glove box or in the center at the very bottom, which is easier to get to with out takeing out the whole dash. Which I have done on an old Jeep Cherokee that my wife use to have, it turned out to be an all day job to replace the heater core. Took five hours to take the dash apart and another five to put it back, but any way I have changed the subject. I would first advise to get a repair manuel from your local parts store (other the the Chlitons). Due to my health I was unable to do the job so a mechanic friend of mine to replace it. This is the same fellow that told me the door blend assembly was bad. The only thing I have yet to check, which of course should have been the first, was check the fuse. But as of now I still have no heat and a brand new 50 dollar part that still is not working. The fellow that put the blend door in stated that he felt is shaking but that was it and that the door was still not changing over. Now if this was in the time that the door was controlled but the vacuum system. It be not problem to fix it. So my suggestion is good to your local parts store, If your going to do it yourself or have a shade tree mechanic do it. Check the fuses first, if that is not the problem the go to the manuel and go from there. Good luck to you, my next stop is a real auto shop, I know it cost more, but I need my heat. So again good luck to you.

    Frank

    Response From way2old

    The blend door actuator is located in the center of the dash. You can see i8t from under the dash. If you remove the actuator, you can work the door by hand very easily. It should be a white p0lastic box about 4x4x1 inches. As I said, if you look under the dash right in the center you will see it.