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2004 GMC Savana 1500 Repair Manual Chilton

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Chilton
1967 GMC G15/G1500 Van Repair Manual Chilton

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2000 GMC C2500 Repair Manual Chilton

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1967 GMC C15/C1500 Pickup Repair Manual Haynes

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Latest Gmc Repair and Repair Manual Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

93 GMC sierra pu wont start

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From birdbrain on 93 GMC sierra pu wont start

I have spark, plugs were dry, so now I'm looking toward the fuel system. It will occasionally start, I noticed that when it does start I can hear the fuel pump and when it won’t start, I don’t hear the fuel pump just prior to turning the key fully forward. My repair manual instructs me to perform testing, first with the fuel pump relay. Problem is, It’s not on the firewall within the engine compartment as indicated in the manual, Where is it? Also tried applying 12V to the fuel pump test connector pin however, no sound from the pump. Will the pump always run when 12V is applied to the test connector or once max pressure is reached the pump will not run any longer? Looking at the schematic of the fuel pump wiring diagram it appears applying 12v to the grey wire will make the pump run, will it?

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The owner's manuel should say where. If Not! buy the dang relay at GM and look at their screen for where. I'd start with the relay and then it's possible that you need a fuel pump. Good luck- T

2001 jimmy rear hatch wont open

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From midnightdave on 2001 jimmy rear hatch wont open

the rear window on my 2001 GMC Jimmy wont open,I push the button on the dash, it makes the "noise" like somthing is moving,but not the "click" it used to make,when it did open,My problem is, how do I access this lock/latch mechanism to repair it? I can crawl over the back seat and look at a rear panel of the rear fold down door,but, see no way of removing the panel to access the rear locks.The repair manual says nothing about this problem,and without the rear window hatch open, the tail gate does'nt open eitherso do you have an answer?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You may do some damage in the process because the hatch won't open but the inside panel has to be removed to access anything

1988 GMC S15 5 speed. Engine Control Module

Showing 9 out of 14 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From irishmantx on 1988 GMC S15 5 speed. Engine Control Module

Dear Group,

I currently own a 1988 GMC S15, 4 cylinder, 2.5 liter, 5 speed manual
transmission pickup truck. It was a great running vehicle till this year
it started to act up! Back in May and June I drove it to work, and then
in the morning when my shift was over (I work nights) it ran like a champ
then started to 'shut totally down' it struggled to run, then wanted to
shut down HARD. I restart it would burp, gurrgle, gasp chufff and shake
then die HARD. I restart again, and the entire truck shook and rattled, so
bad, my coffee and water jugs sloshed allover! I am told, it could be the
hydraulic clutch going out, the timing system going out, or the Electronic
Control Module. The Haynes repair manual says the E.C.M. could be in one
of three places.. Passenger side kick panel on right side under the dash,
behind the glove box, or inside the the instrument cluster.

How do I remove the speedometer cable from the instrument cluster?
(Would there be any replacement 1988 GMC S15 instrument cluster for
a 2.5 liter, manual transmission, with or without trip odometer?) I do
want to find out where the E.C.M. is, and what I can do to remove it,
since I am out of money till pay day (1st of December I get paid monthly)
and like to save some towing charges, and repair costs if I can. I wish I
can hook up a USB port to the computer, save the critical information to
a flash drive as a back up, remove the good component off of the unit
and get a new E.C.M. and reinstall the part. :) Or a simple Reboot would
help fix my E.C.M. But, what is the common spot to find the ECM and any
tricks to get it removed without breaking the wire or connectors.

Any thoughts on this? Please help? What brand of E.C.M. has a good
warranty on it, lifetime warranty and reliable.

Response From Hammer Time

You really think you have it all figured out huh? I'm afraid your theories are a bit off the mark. Even if your wild guess of a bad PCM beats the 200:1 odds that your right, your theory of using a laptop to program it is possible if you go out and spend the $20,000 in equipment needed to do that. The flash drive isn't going to cut it.

If you want to diagnose this properly, use this link

NO START DIAGNOSTICS

Response From irishmantx Top Rated Answer

Dear Hammer Time,

After replacing the injector, key ignition, fuel pump, fuel sending unit,
flushing the tank, purging the fuel lines, replacing the fuel filter, and fuel,
with excessive down time due to budget cuts and I only get a check once
a month, so this is a luxury to get going after bills are paid, I realize the
OBD-I computer may have been damaged after an accident in 2008 on a back
road in Central Texas. After that accident, 2 or 3 shade tree mechanics did
service this truck to rebuild the rear end, and later the transmission.

I've been taken for a bad ride in the service end of the deal. Now with that
said, I simply want to know the location or common location of the E.C.M or the
O.B.D. 1, computer on a 1988 GMC S-15, 5 speed, 2.5 liter, pickup truck. Is it
behind door number 1: Instrument Cluster, 2:Glove Box, or 3:Passenger Kick
Panel under the Dash where you rest your foot / leg?

(Also, is there available New Old Style Instrument Clusters for a 1988 GMC
S-15 with manual transmission, and a trip odometer available? Some salvage
yards may not have them, and wonder if it's another Obsolete Discontinued part?)

Thank you for responding, I just hope I can find a service professional to work
with me, and check the OBD-1 computer. If not, I'll wait till Jan or Feb when I
have the financial means to do so. THANK YOU! Happy Holidays, Happy Chanukah!

Sincerely,
irishmantx
76531

P.S.

Well I stand corrected about diagnosing and being a bit high tech on the
matter. Since the "Car MD" infomercials are coming out, I felt it would be
'nice' to have all cars with a USB plug, load some diagnostic software on a
laptop or desktop, 'troubleshoot' via the computer to computer interface,
and get an accurate electronic interpretation of the trouble codes on the
car in question, and apply corrective measures to resolve the issue at hand.

Response From Hammer Time

I would have thought that after throwing all those parts at it and having no success that you would be ready to change your methods, but apparently not..........LOL
The ECM is right under the dash on the passenger side.


Well I stand corrected about diagnosing and being a bit high tech on the
matter. Since the "Car MD" infomercials are coming out, I felt it would be
'nice' to have all cars with a USB plug, load some diagnostic software on a
laptop or desktop, 'troubleshoot' via the computer to computer interface,
and get an accurate electronic interpretation of the trouble codes on the
car in question, and apply corrective measures to resolve the issue at hand.


No, your not too high tech at all. If fact the junk your seeing on the infomercial is really low tech. They are nothing but OBD2 generic readers that can be loaded on to a laptop. They are the DIY version of the real tools but with only about 10% of the capabilities. Programming is possible from a laptop and many scan tools now but the cost of this capability would be well over $10,000 It's a whole lot more advanced, and proprietary for that matter too, than a simple flash drive.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just the speedo cable for this:

If like the older (1984) S-10 Blazer I owned I got to it best thru the speaker instead of from underside. If this year still has a dash speaker it will come right out and you can lube or replace cable that way. Can't speak for every model year of everything but did that one just that one as it was annoyingly noisy and I just wanted to lube it and that's all that one needed,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Hammer and Tom,

Found the computer! I noticed some wires, and a hex nut, undid the hex nut
and tugged gently to loosen the computer. Something sounded loose, and it
had a faint burnt smell on the connectors. After my 'accident' in 2008, it may
be that the jolt damaged the computer. :(( Well, I got the "CPU / CORE" out
of the box and in an electro-static bag. The mount brackets are removed,
and I will remember how the new one will go. (THANK YOU BOTH!)

One thing about Texas Back roads, OBEY the SPEED! I took a turn a little
too sharp, lost control, snagged the right rear wheel on a concrete culvert,
ripped the wheel right off the rear axel, and nearly rolled the truck and I in
to a bar ditch. I got a banged up bruise on my left leg, and bumped my right
knee on the stick shifter.

After the shade tree repaired the rear wheel, axel, drive shaft ect, he drove
it around to make sure it worked. (This was off a scrapped S-10 of the same
design and year. He southern engineered it to work great.) Problem? He did
not check the seals on the transmission, and turned out that the transmission
had to be rebuilt. $975.00 times 2 . I sunk a lot of money in this old truck, but
its like this. I spent thousands on ex girlfriends, never got much love in return,
I'll spend more on this cream puff of a truck, and at least I get to drive around,
and it won't get knocked up by someone else! :)

Well, now its the waiting game, my folx where I stay with, won't spot me some
cash or money to help me out till pay day, which is another 2 or so weeks. So I
am driving a 1982 Ford Granada, 3.3 Liter, automatic transmission.

(F)requently
(O)perated
(R)eliable
(D)ependable

This little honey, is leaking oil, from the valve cover, and who knows where. I did
get some grommets, a 90 degree PVC elbow, an oil filler cap to breather hose, and
got to get some other odds and ends. I happen to have a 1981 Ford Granada bought
from an old lady in fairly decent shape, that's same engine 3.3 liter. So far, its baby
step to getting her back on the road. (The previous service tech said it ran 'hot' time
will tell, how the motor sounds, and how hot it gets. I added 50/50 to the reservoir,
and radiator. I noticed the thermostat in the back seat, hmmmmm..) But T.L.C. will
help a bunch.

(Due to a repossession, and Chapter 7 bankruptcy, auto financing is not an option
for me. No girlfriend, no wife, no ex-wife, no kids that a I know of, 38 years old, no
formal education, I'd say heck with it. If a woman don't love me for my heart she
is just only after my money!) :)

Thanx a bunch guys! By the way Tom, what a cool looking cat you got. I had two female
cats pass away and my boy cat Penhito (pen-hee-tow) is 12+ years old going strong,
but lonely.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good luck buddy. Kitty as I call her is the site's mascot critter. She's a 2002 model mostly Balamese and the most gentle thing I've ever known. House has enough cat hair to stuff a decent mattress but she stays.

I'm just nuts enough to be a now retired ASE certified mechanic and use a cat for an avatar

I didn't know they made Grandas that late. I've owned more cars than anyone I know short of a car dealer and one was a 1975 with the 302 V8 which was actually pretty lame for power but didn't give me a hard time. The door were so damn long which is great for people to get into the back but if parking was tight somewhere there wasn't room to open them.

Regulars are here to help as best we can.

Take care,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

Thank you for the helpful advice. I'm waiting till pay day to get the Engine Control Module ordered and
replaced. Also, things acted up after the accident in 2008. I hope I didn't damage the electrical leads or
connectors. I have to replace bulbs all over the truck periodically, possible short to ground, or some wire
exposed. I found a bulb totally blown inside the shell. I hope replacing the E.C.M. solves the problem long
enough to get me back to the mechanic to check the wiring and or total replacement of the T.B.I. ? If the
connectors not letting the injector work?

Well, I hope to be able to help other souls who have similar problems and bring quick solutions to keep
their S15's and S10's on the road. :) I got to find a good mechanic that don't use spit and bailing wire. lol

Shalom and Happy Thanksgiving,

Michael D. Lucas
76531


Response From irishmantx

Dear Group,

My post apparently got deleted? I am having possible electrical problems
on my 1988 GMC S15 truck. I am noticing the 1157 bulbs keep burning out,
before and after an accident back in 2008. I replace often and I wonder
where could there be a parasitic load, exposed wire, or corroded connector?
Am I using the wrong bulbs, and also, my batteries I get seem to die and
drain quickly. :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( The mechanic's I take my truck to
in Central Texas tell me it's 'nothing' or won't say anything fooling me that
it's fixed but it really isn't.

Could it be a short, or exposed wire? I also noticed the computer box
may have malfunctioned, and possibly any electrical connectors to the
T.B.I. It's hard to say, I had 5 mechanics not even check the wiring since
I bought this truck.

I had new starter replaced, battery replaced (Interstate Battery did
'die' only after 3 years of use.) battery cable replaced, fuel injector
replaced, key ignition switch to start vehicle replaced, but the strangest
thing, it would run really great during the day run without a problem, but at
some time during the morning and evening hours it would run, and want to
die. Just as if something kept power to the injector and refuse to start
after cranking. Its like it ran like a champ then 'poof' begin to shut down
without real warning. The shift light would come on, then engine light,
and I'd restart it would fight me on starting after I crank it a few times.
I'd drain the old battery but I suspect the computer or the TBI to be at
fault?

irishmantx
76531


Response From irishmantx

Dear Group,

In this last post I was unsure what really happened. Under
awesome advice, I replaced all 4 bulbs of 1157, to 2057 for
this truck. Then after I got O'Reilly's to order a reman E.C.M.
and got to pick it up, I put the original chip into the box, and
reseated twice to make sure it fit. Put cover plate back on it,
and put the E.C.M. back into the spot, plugged and replugged
the connectors, till they snap right, put every thing back
together, set the radio clock, radio presets, and cranked it
over. It 'ran' beautifully!

I am taking it on short run trips to make sure it finally solves
the issue or not. I told the guy who last worked on it what had
happened, he did suspect the E.C.M. but mentioned if at last
resort, the 'accident' might have 'hurt' the Throttle Body
Injector, at the extreme least of the problem.

Engine don't sputter, or act up much. Runs well, but still hurt
from having it run 'good' then act up, and had to tow it twice
from the employee parking lot to a shop, or back to the house.

Before I begin 'trusting' I got to drive it when it gets warm
weather like it was acting up during the summer time or when
it got very humid. There were certain situations that cause me
alarm when I drive or start it up. But then again, I had no idea
how bad I 'banged' up the E.C.M. in the accident. I hope I have
no more in the future. But thank you ALL for your help and advice.

I hope at time of this post, it runs wonderful, if not, or any bad
changes, I'll let you know. :-P

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531



Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom and Group,

It turns out, after having one to many shade tree idiots, think my truck is a carbureated
system, after I tell them its fuel injected, the 'tune up' damaged the Hall Effect Switch -
O'Reilly Part Number ME62 $94.99 + tax The distributor cap was not properly seated, and
the rotor 'damaged' or 'chewed up' this part.

A 'better' technician did test with the noid light, the Hall Effect Switch inside the distributor
system was damaged, and not letting current / electrical flow to start the injector. In short
it mechanicaly cranks, but electronically dead. :P I've ordered a new distributor with a lifetime
warranty. I hope this solve the issue for sure, if not I'll try to keep everyone posted if they are
interested...

Main thing for sure, the 1988 GMC S15 Distributor has lots of integrated teeny tiny parts inside
the distributor that can be damaged and also cause issues with starting (That is, when the distributor
cap, is not properly seated and snapped in, thus the rotor acts like a garbage disposal,
chopping up anything inside!) . Most of the micro parts are inside this particular distributor. For you Chevy
lovers who know what I'm talking about. I want to know how many components are inside this particular
distributor?

If possible please let me know?

Shalom,
Michael D. Lucas
76531

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom and Hammer,

links deleted........... not allowed


These two sites help introduce the "FOX" foundation in most 80's style Fords in North
America. I realize, since my mom bought this 1982 Ford Granada from a dealership, in
1984, it has surpassed and out performed its duties above and beyond the call of duty.

It's 3.3L straight 6 engine, is the original engine since 1982, and showing its age. I need to
save up for a new 'warp core' (engine) when the time comes, and my next project is a 1981
Ford Granada with identical mechanical components. Interior is more plush, and clean but
need to replace the negative battery cable, clean the battery pan, check the oil, and gas tank,
and see how the engine runs after it was sold from a mechanic who didn't want to 'waste his time'
on this car.

I only hope I can find a plastics or some fabrication plant to make a copy of the header panel
assembly, head lamp bezels with the amber lens, grille, tail light assembly and other hard to find
parts. Ford has discontinued its line of parts before 2003. In other words, parts for 2002 and earlier
do not exist according to Ford at least that's what the Ford parts guy told me at a dealership.

I got to get a new oil filler cap, with PCV grommets, and get a battery to see if I can crank the
motor, and hear what the engine sounds like. If push comes to shove, I'll have to save up some
major money to get another warp core (engine) coil springs, shocks, struts, rear brakes, and see
what shape the transmission is in. Lot of unknown variables right now to take in consideration, but
with a tighter than a lycra leather back lace corset budget, no room for errors, no luxury in waste,
has to be right, perfect. Measure twice, thrice and more to get a good score! :D Wish I had deep
pockets but hadn't got the stimulus check yet. ;-)

Below is some hidden history of the 1981 Ford Granada, Fox Foundation, and the 255ci engine.

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531

P.S.

The 1981 Ford Granada began with the "OIL CRISIS" and pushed for more economy over muscle.


deleted links are not allowed



Response From Tom Greenleaf

Parts for these now old cars still can be found. Start Googling away. Here in Eastern MA land is so expensive they can't afford to keep cars in the salvage yards unless particularly valuable or collectible and rust is king here so those and the vintage are mostly worth more to crush for the metal than wait to sell parts.

Ask a local salvage yard and they may know where to look for things like lenses and the headlamp bezels. Bet whole good engines can still be found if you really think it's beyond reasonable repair.

I use that line "Measure twice cut once" type of phrase a lot. Try do diagnose stuff to the fullest and not waste bucks but target what you really need.

Restored a 69 Lincoln in 1993 and was easy to find parts for that - brand new old stock. Place in CT had everything and warehoused lots of stuff in Kansas I think. It was pretty wild seeing the old packages of new dinky parts with the words FoMoCo on them! The Lincoln parts cost some bucks. Bet for Granada it's much more reasonable. Seek and ye shall find.

A member here named Nacho from Hermosillo, Senora, MX might even have info for parts which could be shipped from AZ as he owns an A/C shop there but buys tons of stuff in AZ and sends someone to go get it.

If that works for you he's a great guy and would help. No language barrier with him either. You can find him at ..........
http://acsource.net/acforum/index.php?sid=7acf1fcd552e644d7d8eeeb77edc058a which is an A/C site but just send a private message.

One of ours is into old cars too user name " chickenhouse " . To send private messages here you click on the user name and see the option to send one if they have enabled that.

Good luck with the hunt. Guessing these cars are NOT all rusted and they are fairly easy to fix as things go.

Go for it,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

When I was younger, a cat answered to "Tiger" was a yellow, and white striped alley cat. An old man
lived at the house long since torn down, but the tradition was any cat who had stripes was named
"Tiger". Tiger-I would answer to "Tiger" run full speed, slam the brakes and prance on in. Over the years
Tiger-I went A.W.O.L. and a Calico gave birth to kittens. One was a grey and black tiger striped kitty,
and Tiger-II was born. She died Nov 2009. Tiger-II was born in 1993ish. Penhito was born the same year
as he is the boy cat. Gentle little guy, he accepted my smothering, Tiger-II didn't like attention but she was
fastest cat on four paws! Penhito survives alone now, a wild stray cat that was Siamese wandered during a
rain storm, but didn't like to stay, but came back for free food. After a while, she did stay with Tiger-II but
when Tiger-II passed away, that left "Sassy" with Penhito. Sassy passed away a couple of weeks ago, but
was properly buried. I spoil Penhito with can cat food, free litter, and free water. He has his own place to
play in, as my elderly folx have a lot of stuff that don't want cat shredding.. lol I bring him over to play and
sleep on my belly. He goes back to his house to chill and I check on him often.

I do hope to get the money to swap out the OBD-I computer box, slap in the computer core chip, and
get-r-dun. Who knows what other damage I did to that poor truck when I hit that corner. :( I only hope
I can find a mechanic to check the wiring, leads, and other electronic and wiring problems?

Oh by the way, nobody has answered my question about an Instrument Cluster for a 1988 GMC S15
5 speed. How hard are they to find these parts? On my 1988 GMC S15 truck, how do I remove the
speedometer cable from the Instrument Cluster? Is it a special lock ring, or "C" lock ring?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531