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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • APDI
    APDI
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    Behr
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    CSF
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    CSF Radiator
  • Denso
    Denso
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Global Parts
    Global Parts
  • Koyo
    Koyo
  • Koyo Cooling
    Koyo Cooling
  • LKQ
    LKQ
  • Metrix
    Metrix
  • NRF B.V.
    NRF B.V.
  • Nissens
    Nissens
  • One Stop Solutions
    One Stop Solutions
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • TYC Products
    TYC Products
  • Valeo
    Valeo

Best Selling Genuine Volkswagen Radiators

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We stock Radiator parts for most Volkswagen models, including Beetle, CC, Cabrio, Cabriolet, Corrado, Eos, EuroVan, GTI, Golf, Jetta, Passat, R32, Rabbit, Rabbit Convertible, Rabbit Pickup, Routan, Scirocco, Tiguan, Touareg, Transporter, Vanagon.

APDI
2000 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 4 Cyl 1.8L APDI

P311-476B54C    8012265  New

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Qty:
$81.59
APDI Radiator
  • RADIATOR
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Plastic Tank Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 1-1/4
    • Core Height (in): 16
    • Core Width (in): 25-1/2
    • Inlet Connection (in): 1-1/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 1-1/4
    • Rows: 1
  • Radiator - Volkswagen
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Nissens
2006 Volkswagen Beetle Radiator 5 Cyl 2.5L Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-0F9D21A    W0133-1816223  New

Qty:
$100.87
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Drain Plug # 80551-1 also Required On Nissen Brand Radiator
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volkswagen Beetle L 5 Cyl 2.5L 151 2480
Nissens
2010 Volkswagen Beetle Radiator Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-0F9D21A    W0133-1816223  New

Qty:
$100.87
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Volkswagen Beetle
Behr
2000 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 4 Cyl 1.8L Behr - Plastic Tank

P311-375E6D0    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$133.82
Behr Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium Perfect Fit
  • 650 x 414mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Behr
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Metrix
2000 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 4 Cyl 1.8L Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-20787A5    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$96.01
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Volkswagen Jetta L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Metrix
1999 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 4 Cyl 2.0L Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-20787A5    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$96.01
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; with Heavy Duty Cooling
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Manuf. Body Code Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Volkswagen Jetta A4 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984
Behr
2002 Volkswagen Golf Radiator 4 Cyl 1.8L Behr - Plastic Tank

P311-375E6D0    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$133.82
Behr Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium Perfect Fit
  • ; with Heavy Duty Cooling
  • 650 x 414mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Behr
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Volkswagen Golf L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Metrix
2001 Volkswagen Golf Radiator 4 Cyl 2.0L Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-20787A5    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$96.01
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; German Production
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Volkswagen Golf L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984
Behr
2001 Volkswagen Golf Radiator 4 Cyl 2.0L Behr - Plastic Tank

P311-375E6D0    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$133.82
Behr Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium Perfect Fit
  • ; German Production
  • 650 x 414mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Behr
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Volkswagen Golf L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1984
Metrix
2009 Volkswagen Jetta City Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-20787A5    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$96.01
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; with Heavy Duty Cooling System
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Volkswagen Jetta City
Behr
2008 Volkswagen Jetta City Radiator Behr - Plastic Tank

P311-375E6D0    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$133.82
Behr Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium Perfect Fit
  • ; with Heavy Duty Cooling System
  • 650 x 414mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Behr
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Volkswagen Jetta City
Metrix
2000 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 6 Cyl 2.8L Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-20787A5    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$96.01
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; Primary Radiator
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Volkswagen Jetta V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Behr
2000 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 6 Cyl 2.8L Behr - Plastic Tank

P311-375E6D0    W0133-1736138  New

Qty:
$133.82
Behr Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium Perfect Fit
  • ; Primary Radiator
  • 650 x 414mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Behr
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Volkswagen Jetta V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Nissens
2008 Volkswagen Rabbit Radiator Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-5E2D772    W0133-1829120  New

Qty:
$155.91
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • 648 x 418mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Volkswagen Rabbit
Nissens
2005 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator 5 Cyl 2.5L Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-5E2D772    W0133-1829120  New

Qty:
$155.91
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; w/o Heavy Duty Cooling
  • 648 x 418mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volkswagen Jetta L 5 Cyl 2.5L 151 2480
Nissens
2011 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-5E2D772    W0133-1829120  New

Qty:
$155.91
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • ; Not Warm Countries - 418 mm Thick Core
  • 648 x 418mm
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Cylinder Head Type
2011 - Volkswagen Jetta Wagon Naturally Aspirated DOHC
Nissens
2014 Volkswagen Golf Radiator 4 Cyl 2.0L Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-1093D2C    W0133-2064462  New

Qty:
$130.77
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Volkswagen Golf L 4 Cyl 2.0L 120 1968
NRF B.V.
2010 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator NRF B.V. - Plastic Tank

P311-04CA6B4    W0133-2064462  New

Qty:
$139.20
NRF B.V. Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: NRF B.V.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2010 - Volkswagen Jetta DIESEL
Metrix
2012 Volkswagen Jetta Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-243200A    W0133-2064462  New

Qty:
$204.93
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2012 - Volkswagen Jetta DIESEL
Nissens
2010 Volkswagen Golf Radiator 4 Cyl 2.0L Nissens - Plastic Tank

P311-1093D2C    W0133-2064462  New

Qty:
$130.77
Nissens Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Nissens
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Volkswagen Golf L 4 Cyl 2.0L 120 1968

Latest Volkswagen Repair and Radiator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

96 Volkswagen Golf overheating

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From juniorinky on 96 Volkswagen Golf overheating

bought a used 96 golf. it runs about 230 degrees. I put a new thermostat in an a new water pump. I flushed the heater core and the radiator out. I hope The fans up say they run all the time just to see if this would help. I bought a new temperature sender unit and it still reach 230 degrees. it will sit and idle perfect and it runs great but it just reads a little high especially with the fans running all the time now. I thought maybe it might be a head gasket. it did get a little warm and it ran up to about 235. I'm going to check the compression on it tonight. if I take the cap off the overflow tank it will bubble up over

Response From Sidom

How are you seeing that it's running at 230? If you are going by the gauge in the dash then it would be best to see what the temp the comp temp sensor is reading...These systems will run in the 220 range so 230 isn't that far out....if the dash gauge is slightly skewed that could account for a high reading...

Before you rigged up the cooling fans, were they coming on & going off by themselves?

Have you been having to add any coolant?

These systems need pressure on them to raise the boiling point so running it with the cap off can cause some problems in itself...

Response From juniorinky

That was one of the things I first thought that maybe the guage was off.I installed a new sending unit and the fans did come on and off by themselves.I just temporarily rigged them to see if the temp would go down with them on constant but it doesnt. with the fans running I would think that the temperature would be quite a bit lower than 230. the car runs great and idles great it just stays at 230.I thought maybe it could be a head gasket.

Response From Sidom

It is possible that something is going on, I would have to find the exact specs on a VW but take a GM. The fans will come on around 225 and run until around the 210 mark and then turn off....If there was a problem with that system that kept the temp up, the fans would run constantly..

The fact yours were turning off sounds like comp was seeing normal conditions..

Head gaskets, even in their early stages usually show some other signs than just a high temp.....Some are using small amounts of coolant on a regular basis, running rough for a few minutes on cold start up, the heater intermittently losing heat & blowing cold...

A bad sending unit could definitely cause a bad reading on your gauge but it's not the only thing, theres wires & the gauge itself..

It's not going to hurt anything to check the other stuff but I would really want to look at a datastream and see what the comp is seeing...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oroginal poster: NEVER TAKE A PRESSURE CAP OFF OF COOLING SYSTEM WHEN ITS EVEN A WARM ENGINE - YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW HOW MUCH PRESSURE IS IN THERE OR IS RELIEVING IT WILL CAUSE SUDDEN BOILING IN YOUR FACE AND THEN OFF FOR SKIN GRAFTS! I DON'T CARE IF THE CAR BLOWS UP DON'T DO THAT!

Do you think you really have a problem at all? Already said the dash gauge isn't necessarily that accurate. With electric fan cooled radiators there will be some minor fluctuation in temps - then fan(s) come on and then that's the temp it can do.

Hot wiring it you took a chance at messing things up. They either do or don't come on by themselves and while driving along most will not be needed - some are. If you have A/C and or using defrost many fans just stay on - can't know each design.
If you really want to know actual temps you need an infrared thermometer taken right at thermostat and it should be real close to the thermostat's rating and use only the one temp, proper thermostat the car calls for. Many are going to be 195F but can't speak for all.

Maybe I misread something but you need accurate info before you just go jumping to conclusions. My first point was the point. Pressure will prevent coolant from boiling by near exactly 3 degrees F per lb rating of the pressure cap. Fun facts. That is, a 15lb pressure cap the coolant will not boil until 45 degrees higher than the boiling point at your altitude too which counts. Releasing it when forced in liquid state it will instantly flash boil the danger of which is likely plastered all over the place underhood! Careful first,

T

Response From juniorinky

I am wondering if I do have a problem or maybe paranoid.I just think 230 is too high especially when fans are always on and my thermostat is 195.Coming home last nite it got a lot hotter than 230.I tried to burp the system this morning to expel the air and noticed the lowet rad hose was at best luke warm.All others were real hot.My son is taking the rad out now so I will do a better job flushing it after work.

Response From Sidom

If the passage ways in the radiator get restricted then no amout of flushing will clear those.

When you 1st start losing passages, it's more noticable when the engine is under load.....higher speeds...going up hill...running the a/c...Thats when it needs 100% of the cooling area & if only 80% is there, then it will run hotter..

If you have a infra-red thermometer, you can check all the areas of the radiator for cool spots....If there are areas that are "cold", that would indiate that coolant isn't flowing thru them due to a restricted passage way

Of course if the radiator is doing it's job then the outlet hose will be cooler than the inlet hose....If both hose were the same temp....then that would be a problem...

You said in an earlier post that the fans were coming on & going off by themselves & only stayed on after you rigged them to.......
Has something changed since then?

I can't say for sure is you do or don't have a problem.....The 1st step would be to moniter the coolant via the comp....at idle & cruise....

Using a dash gauge to diag cooling problems can lead you down blind alleys......Been there done that

Response From juniorinky

Fixed my overheating problem and wanted to post to let others know if they have a problem like mine.Replaced the head gasket and solved the overheating issue.Wired the fans back to normal and now we are back to normal.Didnt see anything out of the ordinary but it was pretty nasty but all cleaned up and running great.Thanks for everyones help.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The blown head gasket is not a surprise but something else may have caused that head gasket to blow in the first place. Unless you know what the trigger of the original overheating was you may still have an underlying issue in the cooling system that will need to be addressed to prevent it from happening again.

Response From MarineGrunt

First thing you should do is probably pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.

1996 Volkswagen Golf fan issues

Showing 9 out of 11 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From sparkprincess on 1996 Volkswagen Golf fan issues

Hey guys, I bought myself an awesome little Golf in January and now i am having a few issues with it. It is a 1996 VW Golf 1.8L with 112,000kms on it... I have changed things like the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the ignition coil, the timing belt, and the water pump. Now I am having issues with my car overheating. The fuse keeps blowing on my radiator fan and im not sure if that is a problem with my thermostat or the fan?! It was an issue in winter as well when i sat at idle it would over heat (maybe cause the fan wasnt kicking in?) Does anyone have any insight? Maybe previous experience? The info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

Response From kev2

check fan amp draw -
My colleague discretesignals hopefully will post he is familiar with the VW fan circuits

Response From Discretesignals

With or without air conditioning?

Kev is more than experienced to help you out

Response From sparkprincess

cheers guys, the car has NO air conditioning.

My dad and I had another look at it today and the fan switches on and runs for a few seconds and then the fuse blows.

Response From Discretesignals

More than likely the fan motor is using too many amps because it is worn out or binding. Spin the fan by hand and make sure that it isn't rubbing or binding.

You can measure the amount of amperage the fan motor uses, but you need an inductive clamp with a digital volt meter. The amount of amps going through there would fry a meter fuse if you measured it directly through the meter.

The fan motor is going to use the most amps to get itself moving. As the motor speeds up the amperage goes down or should. Also make sure there are no obstructions in front of the fan or radiator that would hinder its air flow. It is good idea to clean the fins out in the radiator with the old fan out, if you decide to replace the motor.

Response From sparkprincess Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the help! I have to wait til monday to look into the issue a bit more. I think ill try to replace the fan motor. I will keep you posted to how it goes as soon as i change it!

Response From sparkprincess

Ok, so it was the fan! I have a new fan ordered and it should be here Tuesday. I'm going to put in in myself... Is there anything I need to know?

Response From Discretesignals

Not sure if there is anything you need to know. I'm sure if there is something that you need to know, you'll ask.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Couldn't find a 1.8 available for US anyway and no question if A/C or not but not the whole point. If whole assembly comes together shouldn't be a real problem if right unit. If you are just getting a motor if that's possible watch out for reverse threads on it how it holds the fan blades. If new nut not with new motor check threads on new for "left hand" threads.


Not this but if that breaks off doing a motor only it's a problem either for a core deposit or finding another nut if so or saving the old one IF AND ONLY IF THIS SITUATION!


Last is just make sure when it works it spins the correct way - sorry, lousy info for this available,


T

Response From sparkprincess

You guys are awesome! everything went smoothly :) it only took me 30 mins to swap out the fan! It was only the fan assembly and the motor so it went in no problem. Everything is working super smoothly :) thanks heaps for all your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad to hear it, closed as solved,


T