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APDI
2015 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.5L APDI

P311-3DEEFD4    8012988  New

CU2988 , 21460JA00A , 434094 , 221-3407 , PR2988A , A2988 , CRS2988 , 21410ZN50A , 2988 , 21460ZN50A

Qty:
$90.98
APDI Radiator
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Nissan Maxima V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
APDI
1999 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.0L APDI

P311-5BFEA14    8011752  New

2146031U00 , 214100L710 , 2141031U00 , 1752 , 214603U100 , 376748091 , 438114 , REA41-1752A , 214100L700 , 214601L017 , CU1752 , 214100L715 , C1752 , 214601L015 , 214601L105 , 214600L715 , 2146035U00 , 214602Y600 , 221-4403 , 2141038U00 , 214600L710 , A1752 , PR1752A , 432509 , CRS1752

Qty:
$81.52
APDI Radiator
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Nissan Maxima V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2988
APDI
1990 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.0L APDI

P311-19B6E72    8011242  New

C0048 , 1185 , 2141030P10 , CRS1242 , 1242 , 7168 , PR0048A , 48 , 2146096E01 , 2146085E01 , 2146085E00 , 432208 , 21460960 , 1150 , 2150085E00 , A1242 , 1R220892208 , 2141085E01 , 2146030P10 , 2141085E00 , 221-4400 , 2141085 , 7160 , CRS48 , REA41-1242A , PR1242A , CU1242 , 2146085 , 2141040P00 , REA41-48A

Qty:
$98.20
APDI Radiator
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Nissan Maxima V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
APDI
2002 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.5L APDI

P311-28CE0C7    8012329  New

431479 , 376748411 , 432467 , CU2612 , 2329 , 214102Y700 , 214605Y700 , 214102Y907 , PR2329A , 221-3401 , 214602Y000 , A2329 , REA41-2329A , 214102Y703 , 214102Y600 , 214602Y607 , 2612 , 214602Y603 , 214105Y700 , CRS2329

Qty:
$78.57
APDI Radiator
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Nissan Maxima V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
APDI
2005 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.5L APDI

P311-3197677    8012693  New

CU2693 , CRS2415 , 376748441 , PR2693A , 214608Y100 , 432621 , 214108J100 , 735122 , 221-3415 , RA20049 , REA41-2415A , CU2415 , 2415 , A2693 , 21341 , 2693 , REA41-2693A , 734935 , PR2415A , CRS2693 , 214608J100

Qty:
$96.19
APDI Radiator
  • High Efficiency Core
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Nissan Maxima Automatic V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Denso
2003 Nissan Maxima Radiator 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso

P311-06BA5CA    221-3401  New

21460-5Y700 , 21460-2Y600 , 8012329 , 21460-2Y607 , 431479 , 2329 , 21460-2Y000 , 2929 , CU2612

Qty:
$68.12
Denso Radiator
  • Radiator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Height: 15.7500
    • Core Thickness: 0.6250
    • Core Width: 27.0620
    • Inlet Diameter: 1.3750
    • Outlet Diameter: 1.3750
  • DENSO is a leading supplier of radiators to OE car makers around the world. DENSO's OE experience and know-how ensure its products provide unmatched performance, reliability and fitment. Radiator performance is essential for proper engine cooling and function. DENSO's radiator configurations, tanks, fin pitch, core dimensions and materials meet OE manufacturer's rigid standards. All DENSO radiators pass its strict durability and function tests. As the result, DENSO radiators deliver reliable performance even under the most demanding conditions.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Nissan Maxima Automatic VQ35DE Naturally Aspirated GAS FI V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Metrix
2007 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-23A9D09    W0133-1815656  New

Qty:
$117.69
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 06/01/2006-
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Maxima Fr:06-01-06
Koyo Cooling
2007 Nissan Maxima Radiator Koyo Cooling - Plastic Tank

P311-4C5D7E0    W0133-1815656  New

Qty:
$158.59
Koyo Cooling Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 06/01/2006-
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Koyo Cooling
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Maxima Fr:06-01-06
Metrix
2008 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-23A9D09    W0133-1815656  New

Qty:
$117.69
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: -04/30/2008
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Nissan Maxima To:04-30-08
Metrix
2009 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-41B2770    W0133-1911835  New

Qty:
$139.68
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 05/01/2008-
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Nissan Maxima Fr:05-01-08
Metrix
2018 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-41B2770    W0133-1911835  New

Qty:
$139.68
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Nissan Maxima
Metrix
1995 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-3C1F84E    W0133-1724424  New

Qty:
$114.28
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 02/01/1994-
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Prod. Date Range
1995 - Nissan Maxima SE Automatic Fr:02-01-94
Metrix
1998 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-3C1F84E    W0133-1724424  New

Qty:
$114.28
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
1998 - Nissan Maxima SE Automatic
Metrix
1999 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-3C1F84E    W0133-1724424  New

Qty:
$114.28
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: -03/31/1999
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Prod. Date Range
1999 - Nissan Maxima SE Automatic To:03-31-99
Koyo Cooling
2006 Nissan Maxima Radiator Koyo Cooling - Plastic Tank

P311-4124C14    W0133-1722917  New

Qty:
$89.09
Koyo Cooling Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 08/01/2005-05/31/2006
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Koyo Cooling
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Nissan Maxima Fr:08-01-05 To:05-31-06
Metrix
2006 Nissan Maxima Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-2E25E72    W0133-1722917  New

Qty:
$129.76
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 08/01/2005-05/31/2006
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Nissan Maxima Fr:08-01-05 To:05-31-06
Valeo
2004 Nissan Maxima Radiator Valeo - Plast.Tank(NLA 11/17)

P311-10AFEC4    W0133-1767206  New

Qty:
$206.10
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 01/01/2003-
  • Plast.Tank(NLA 11/17)
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Maxima SL Fr:01-01-03
CSF
2004 Nissan Maxima Radiator CSF - Plastic Tank

P311-5D43166    W0133-1767206  New

Qty:
$122.65
CSF Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: 01/01/2003-
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: CSF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Maxima SL Fr:01-01-03
Valeo
2005 Nissan Maxima Radiator Valeo - Plast.Tank(NLA 11/17)

P311-10AFEC4    W0133-1767206  New

Qty:
$206.10
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: -07/31/2005
  • Plast.Tank(NLA 11/17)
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Maxima SL To:07-31-05
CSF
2005 Nissan Maxima Radiator CSF - Plastic Tank

P311-5D43166    W0133-1767206  New

Qty:
$122.65
CSF Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Production: -07/31/2005
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: CSF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Maxima SL To:07-31-05

Latest Nissan Maxima Repair and Radiator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1989 Nissan Maxima Won't Start Up???

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Spartan50 on 1989 Nissan Maxima Won't Start Up???

Hi, how are you, hope everything is going good???
I had a question about my Automatic 1989 3.0L V6 Nissan Maxima with around 180,000 Miles recorded.
I think my battery died due to leaving on the radio for too long, so I cleaned the precipitates from the battery connectors, then used jumper cables which helped start the car, turned off the car for a 2nd time then started it again, then I turned off the car again for a 3rd time, but now the car won’t start. When putting the key in the ignition it sounds as if the car almost will start, but then struggles to do so. Is there a problem with the battery, spark plugs, fuel injectors, timing belts, etc.???
THANK YOU FOR READING THIS!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is it cranking the engine and not starting or not cranking at all?

T

Response From Spartan50

Thanks for the reply,
Yes, the car was cranking with a great amount of noise, sounds like it should start up, but just barely wouldn't start up.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Seems to me and forgive me but sounds like you aren't sure what you are hearing. Noise? If starter's gear or "flywheel" is striped it will make or could make some zipping sounds and be loud but it's not cranking the engine or an "I don't know" from me as I'm not there to hear this noise. A bad starter drive gives a distinct humming noise.

If engine cranks at a normal cranking speed and won't start then you go on to find out what is missing. Generally lacking spark or fuel to narrow it down and if it did run recently without running out of oil or a wild overheat then valve timing can be an issue and some fatal for the engine cost wise unless this car is a real gem otherwise.

What engine is in this? I'll try to find out what system it uses for valve timing and if that is way off it could bend valves on some or crank sound funny as it would show no compression or if that very low compression and not enough to start - just can't say with the info at hand yet.

This is open to a lot of possibilities so you may need a mechanic to hear this noise AND the no start. Are you planning to fix this yourself?

T

Response From Spartan50

Hey Tom,
I can understand there might be a million different noises with a car hehe, there have been occasions where my car wouldn’t crank as much and the battery was the problem, but this time it was funny because there was a good cranking noise and engine sounds like it will start, but just not able to in the end. This led me to think the battery was fine, and another issue may be at hand such as problems with the timing belt.
Today my dad and I took the battery to Sears, they charged the battery, we put it back into my car, and it started without any hesitation! It was a battery problem I guess the whole time.
Listen Tom, I want to thank you for giving me great detailed tips about my car, it’s hard to find this type of help online, you sound like you know a lot about cars, I will keep you in mind as an online friend who has great knowledge of cars. If you have any recommendations of good local mechanics in the east bay area that would be cool.
Thank You Tom!
Goodnight.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for the kind words. You gotta be nuts to do this stuff but some of us just have to get dirty, cut, burnt and come back for more. Do know the age and miles on the timing belt - too important so pay attention to those,

Glad you are up and running

Tom

Response From Spartan50

Hey Tom,
No problem, and the world of cars is fascinating, I want to learn more about fixing them, so far the main thing I know is how to change the window regulators, which I had to change on my Nissan about 4-5 times hehe electrical probs.
I will keep in mind the age and condition of the timing belt, don't think we changed it recently.
Thanks and Have a Great Day!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Spartan - it's a hoot. I was into cars years before I could legally drive and owned several before my initial licence! Odd ball kid could fix dumb things and parents allowed this - three siblings were NOT allowed cars till college!

Just know that the underling principles of how about everything works is old as dirt but the way it's controlled changes. Gasoline, 4 stroke engines prevail now as they did 100 years ago but OMG how to control the thing, maximize efficiency, still improving power out of smaller displacement engines is ongoing.

Wheels are still round and fuel of choice for foreseeable future IMO will be gasoline as it works in hot and super cold climates. Not much else can just up and replace that so easy or it would have been done. Controlling things by vehicle's computer is ever growing doing the same old crap but right on time and target to waste the least.

Retired long time now and the changes are still coming. Nobody has beaten the plain internal combustion engine however controlled since it's inception. Ferdinand Wankel made an rotary engine which beats the hell out of a piston engine for power by nature and weighs less. Problem. It just pollutes too much and is a pig on gas. Same with the two stroke engines but needed unless you want to carry a V8 for a weed whacker - laugh.

Transmissions and differentials are still based on 100+ year old science and physics but not controlled better.

Fiercely competitive industry and have to make things perfect (new) the first time with common labor and do it fast! Same stuff just engineer in fast efficient assembly.

The people want........... low price, high MPG, plenty of power and room?! Oh - all that and no pollution. Oh my what a challenge and what happens is the mechanical stuff gets tight to work on when and if needed. Good grief I recall cars you could stand under the hood and do work on them!

Stay interested - I do. Being retired means I'm not buying an 8 thousand dollars scanner for multiple cars! Yikes! So if need be you still can do your own stuff but may need to pay for a scan now and then as unless using it daily it could never pay off. Need to know when it's right to pay the pros and really always did but seems more now than ever.

Have a great day,

Tom

Response From Mr.scotty

Man..That sounds like me 100%.
I'm not kidding here, I was 4years old when i had my first car(1970 vw bug)Sold that then when
i was 13 i got another one that my dad and I took turns driving on dirt roads, And i did all the repairs on it had the engine out a few times swaping different heads and stuff like that.
This stuff is so much fun and I'm learning new stuff about it everyday.
My personal vehicle now is a 87 mazda B-2000.

Great to hear there was crazy Moms and Dads like mine out there..haha

Response From Tom Greenleaf

scotty - others: Thanks. Car and mechanical si*t was "grease monkey" crap so long ago. Not so obviously - takes real thought and some grey matter to get thru some stuff as we know.

No pay here and free to use site. If not into it the door to leave is wide open As said all over the site - I don't own or control it but was part of setting it up before it opened. Wadda I know? Not trying is the real failure,

Tom

Response From speed


scotty - others: Thanks. Car and mechanical si*t was "grease monkey" crap so long ago. Not so obviously - takes real thought and some grey matter to get thru some stuff as we know.

its till is grease monkey according to colleges. all the tech schools i applied for only required a 17 on the act to get accepted....i got a 23 wiht minimal sleep adn no study....and i did horrible on the math portion too (took like 20 minute nap on accident lol) i think its an insult to say that only stupid people work on cars cuz they cant do anything else....well the "smart" people out there cant fix their car...so they take it to a "Stupid" person...it does take skilll and smarts to do this. you gotta know how the systems work together, how they are connected, how they work, characteristics, all that jazz ya know. these are complex machines that require special training to fix. anyway sorry for the hijack...im done now lol

Response From Tom Greenleaf

So right speed. Not "grease monkey" crap anymore and I was there - can you spell "old phart?"

Here in Mass a two Sh*ts a good tech can make $120/hr - scary! Grease monkey - I think NOT!

Tom

Response From Mr.scotty

Freaken small engine techs make up to $70 an hours around here!
I do both cars and small engines.
I hope to one day have my own shop and I'll repair both, but manly cars cause of more $$.
For rite now I'll have to deal with my driveway and my 12x20 shed haha.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Mr. Scotty: Where are you? Kawi 460fv - 12.5 HP draining gas into oil! Shut off doesn't work and I'll fix it, Like a radiator's pet cock - sounds kinky but just hardware,

Tom

Response From speed

Age is but a number tom, but with age comes wisdom

Response From Mr.scotty

Rite!
I think if people have the time/money and want to learn on there vehicles with proper instructions and a teacher they should go for it.

Response From Spartan50

You got a head start compared to most others, I always dreamed of fixing things such as cars, but never put it into application haha until my 20’s lol.
The base never changes to any subject or field, it’s just the branches of the tree that change, exactly improving efficiency, moving onto cars that are more gas efficient, going to greener technologies and eventually creating something that just doesn’t rely on gas at all and no pollution hopefully in next 50 years hehe we’ll see.
It is extremely difficult and involves heavy research trial and error to come up with new fueling technologies, but overtime new stuff arises, we have hybrids, etc. Yes there are more technological features attached to cars, auto parallel parking, etc is crazy, I still do it the old fashioned way haha cuz I am pretty ok at it lol, can’t be a lazy driver.
That is the main issue of how to make the engines more efficient with less pollution and better gas mileaged cars, slowly they are adding more mpg’s for cars and some are just amazing like 50+mpg. I increase my 89 maxima’s car mpg every now and then, just make it run more miles before I take it to the gas sation haha.
Base technology is same yes.

That’s right efficiency and they want it fast in crazy time schedules and the company that can do that wins!

Consumers demand crzy things, it’s not possible for car co’s to do so, but create new innovative methods, lot of pressure to invent new designs, etc but they find ways to get things done.
I want to keep my maxima for sentimental love for the car, but eventually we will have an extra 04 honda I will take over in few months, is there any legal way I can keep my maxima like in some storage place without having to pay any fees such as registration fees or any other fees for the car, like abandon the car or something then in a few years when I get money I can reuse the car and customize the car???
Thanks Tom!

1987 Nissan Maxima AC Help

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From yearlingsun on 1987 Nissan Maxima AC Help

1987 Nissan Maxima - V6 3.0 - 137,000 Miles

Hello all,

I'm fairly new to working on car AC systems, I do most of my car work on my own but am inexperienced with AC. I have a 1987 Nissan Maxima. When I first purchased it about 4 years ago the dealer I got it from overcharged the AC system and locked up the compressor. They gave me a refund to replace the compressor which I did. After charging the AC system up the air would blow cold for about a minute and then get hot. At the time I didn't care too much about the AC system because it stayed fairly cool where I lived at the time. I ended up moving somewhere a little warmer so I had a mechanic check out the AC system for me one day. After messing around with it he told me their was a pressure switch that screws into the dryer/accumulator that needed replaced.

I finally got around to purchasing the switch about a week ago, it arrived today so I installed it. When I took the old switch off of course the refrigerant in the system all came out, (I used an environmentally friendly alternative to charge my system after replacing the compressor so I wasn't too concerned about some of it escaping) I used a rag to soak up most of the stuff as it came out. Based on the amount of refrigerant that came out I don't believe the system has any leaks. I used an AC system dryer and sealer this time around as well when I recharged the system.

Once I got the system all charged up I tried running the AC again. Same deal as last time, it would blow cold for about a minute and then cut off. I've noticed that the system will blow cold as long as the radiator fans are on, as soon as they cut off the air stops blowing cold. The compressor also spins fine so I know it's working correctly. I have no idea what my next step should be as far as determining where the problem in my AC system lies. I imagine that the pressure switch might not have been bad and the wiring running from it is damaged somewhere, I hope that's not the case.

Any advice is appreciated!

Response From Hammer Time

Your next step shop be to lay down the tools and walk away from the car.

You have made about every possible mistake that could be made. I don't even know where to start.

  • Not using R134
  • using sealer
  • installing a compressor without doing anything else after the first one grenaded
  • Letting the refrigerant just blow off taking all the oil with it
  • Thinking you have no leak based on how fast it blew out.
  • The compressor spins fine so it is working correctly? ......... really?
  • No gauges or pressure readings

  • The only advice I can give you is take it to an AC specialist, not the fool that told you to change the switch.
    You don't learn AC repair through experimenting or posting on a forum.

    Response From yearlingsun

    I don't have the funds to take it to an AC specialist otherwise I would, I can afford parts, I can't afford the ridiculous costs of labor on auto work. This car probably hasn't had any AC work done since it was built so I figure it might need some work and I do have the funds and time to repair the system myself. I've learned the basics of AC systems, I figure the best way to really learn about them is actually work on them, even if I do have to go through some trial and error. The AC compressor is remanufactured, it's not been on the car very long and since the AC doesn't work it's not really been used. If you could provide me with some more information about working on AC systems and at least a list of things I need to do that would be great. I don't expect to learn enough to fix the whole system overnight, I do know that I can learn what I need to learn in order to fix it myself. Everyone has to start somewhere right?

    Response From Hammer Time

    OH, and you used a reman compressor too. Add that mistake to the list.

    You may think you don't have money for any specialist labor but believe me, after you have replaced all the same parts multiple times because you ruined the system, you're going to think that labor was really cheap.

    You couldn't learn everything you need to know in a year of posting on forums.
    AC repair is not a DIY job.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    My few cents: With no money and this exact car at the age plain forget having A/C. Try to get your money back if you can for the compressor is really new you didn't have to give them your old one so put it back on for the pulley it probably need for the belt(s)


    If you must have A/C this is totally now the wrong vehicle. Made for another gas than you must have used and totally hopeless now if you would spend thousands and thousands to make it right.


    That doesn't seem likely and would be a waste for a car IMO of no particular interest anyway and not be worth much with great A/C still.


    HT was wrong it wouldn't take a whole year on the web to learn this it would take a lot more than that! If everything was OE parts and situation would still take skills but throw in now the list of horrors rules this car out for A/C. Get a cig lighter fan for about $10 bucks and put up with it.


    Rock and hard place big time. Can you manage without a car at all? Just rent when a must? Other options for having a car if communing and must have one? They all cost something no matter what you do,


    T

    Response From Discretesignals


    Overheating due to radiator stop leak.

    Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
    Question From cheffington999 on Overheating due to radiator stop leak.

    hello, i have a 1986 nissan maxima (3.0 v6) with 96k miles. this past september, i used stop leak in an attempt to fix a leaky heater core. after using it, it gummed up the cooling system causing the temp gage to go past the normal operating temp. i had it flushed a month ago and replaced the thermostat yesterday. while replacing the thermostat, i noticed that there was still a thin coating of stop leak inside the hoses and the radiator. the temp gage still goes past the center mark (which it never did prior to stop leak) i am planning on completely fixing the problem by having the system pressure flushed again and replacing the radiator which is original to the car. I am just looking for some suggestions on what to do to completely solve the problem.
    By the way, the car does not leak coolant, and the heater core is bypassed.
    Thanks!

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    You're on the right track with what you are doing. About the only other thing that may still have a problem is the heater core. It will get clogged just like the radiator and it already has leak issues.

    NEVER do that again. There is no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can".

    Fan failure

    Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
    Question From terminalVoltage on Fan failure

    I have a '99 Nissan Maxima 3.0 344,245 miles that for some reason after replacing a broken radiator fan refuses to turn on the primary fan unless the air conditioner is running. If you turn on the AC both the Primary and auxiliary (condenser) fan will turn on but if its off nothing. Before I replaced the fans (they both come in an assembly) the primary (driver side) fan would turn on the second i started the car and then kick off until the temperature rises to about mid way. The new fans also have a different amount of blades for some reason which I hope isn't an issue since I can't return them, thanks for any help!

    Response From Hammer Time

    Fans are not supposed to turn on when the engine is cold and the AC is off. That is normal operation.

    Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    At idle, AC, off and vehicle not moving the fan will come on low speed between 203F and 220F. Above 220F the fans will go high speed.

    The fact the fans come on when you have the ac running tells you the fans, circuits, relays, and ECM are good.

    2000 Maxima engine temp issues

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    Question From jarmstrong on 2000 Maxima engine temp issues

    2000 Nissan Maxima. Yesterday, the engine temp started shooting up quickly upon acceleration from a stop but then came right back down. Doesn't do it every time but does it enough to where I imagine it is a problem. Does not run hot when idling or after it gets going again after starting from the dead stop. Have Googled this but haven't found anything similar to this situation. Antifreeze reserve tank was empty so I refilled it this morning, but it did not solve the problem. We also have issues with the heater taking a long time to blow hot air, and even then it comes and goes. Any ideas?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Just the recovery tank changing says it's leaking somewhere and still not full in the system which it must be. Heater observation and that it was low about confirms that.


    Pressure test for leaks and for head gasket problems as well IMO for something like this. If no radiator cap on this system just only the remote tank you wont know so easily if it's full by eye,


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    Response From jarmstrong

    Don't know if this is related or not, but I believe I am also leaking power steering fluid.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Doubt the relationship but that too needs to be found for sure and fixed. See if you can see where it's leaking PS fluid, hoses, or sometimes at bellows of rack and pinion perhaps or anywhere it travels.


    The engine coolant problem is potentially very costly if ignored. You must know it's truly full not just tank and can stay full or if not a bigger problem than it might be now it will be,


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    Response From jarmstrong Top Rated Answer

    Checked radiator hoses after it was driven for a brief time today. Both were hot. This is about the extent of my ability to figure out what the deal is, but doesn't that indicate the coolant is flowing through the engine block?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    You need help then at once. Again, the recovery tank was found empty which is NOT normal so you know it has a problem and if YOU can't verify level any which way at radiator and in turn means engine is in fact full get the help.


    If not caused by a leak to ground for example it could have blown it out to ground unseen by either plain overheating or a head gasket problem that could be minimized by not driving this any more than to find out. Whatever the original cause the weak link will be damage to the engine's head gasket and more if ignored.


    Some designs do not allow for a pressure cap on the radiator making it more difficult to know. Just feeling warm/hot hoses is NOT indicating liquid or gaseous heat so far,


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