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    Global Parts
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    Koyo Cooling
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Best Selling Genuine Hummer Radiators

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including LKQ, APDI, CSF Radiator, TYC Products, ACDelco, Metrix, CSF, Koyo Cooling
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Hummer Replacement Radiator Parts

We stock Radiator parts for most Hummer models, including H2, H3, H3T.

LKQ
2009 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.2L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-41FD2D2    RAD2370  New

Qty:
$137.54
LKQ Radiator
  • 34 Inch Core - Cap: SPL010352; Construction: Plastic And Aluminum; Core Dimensions: 34 x 17-1/2 x 1; TOC: 11-1/2 7-PLT; EOC: 11-1/2 6-PLT; Inlet: 1-5/16; Outlet: 1-9/16
  • RADIATOR; 34in CORE ; AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION; WITH EOC; WITH
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Hummer H2 V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
LKQ
2008 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.2L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-1F99FA7    RAD13029  New

Qty:
$156.67
LKQ Radiator
  • Cap: SPL010352; Plastic And Aluminum; Core Dimensions: 34 x 17 1/2 x 1 1/4; TOC: 11 7 PLATE; EOC: 11; Inlet: 1 5/16; Outlet: 1 9/16
  • RADIATOR 34IN CORE WITH ENGINE OIL COOLER WITH TOC; PLASTIC AND
  • Platinum Pro
  • ALUMINUM
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hummer H2 Automatic V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
LKQ
2009 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.2L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-0ACD814    RAD2921  New

Qty:
$116.57
LKQ Radiator
  • With 1-1/4 Core - Cap: SPL010352; Construction: Plastic And Aluminum; Core Dimensions: 34 x 17-1/2 x 1-1/4; TOC: YES; EOC: NO; Inlet: 1-5/16; Outlet: 1-9/16
  • RADIATOR; 4.8L; 5.3L; 6.2L; WITH TRANS OIL COOLER; WITHOUT
  • Platinum Pro
  • ENGINE OIL COOLER. 1-1/4in THICK CORE; WITHOUT HEAVY DUTY COOLING
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Hummer H2 V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
LKQ
2010 Hummer H3T Radiator 5 Cyl 3.7L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-2FB0EC3    RAD2855  New

Qty:
$109.70
LKQ Radiator
  • Cap: SPL010352; Construction: Plastic And Aluminum; Core Dimensions: 18-1/2 x 23-3/4 x 1-1/2; TOC: YES; EOC: NO; Inlet: 1-1/4; Outlet: 1-1/2
  • RADIATOR; PLASTIC AND ALUMINUM
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Hummer H3T L 5 Cyl 3.7L 223 3654
APDI
2009 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.2L APDI

P311-5B0C72A    8012370  New

PR2370A , 15143107 , 52381415 , 15841573 , 4-0882 , 52487603 , 221-9011 , 22840116 , 52486594 , 21338 , RA20060 , 13029 , 21542 , REA41-2370A , 434090 , CU2461 , CU2370 , 2461 , 4-0881 , 52486597 , 432305 , 15841569 , 21573 , PR2461A , 221-9010 , 93440871 , 432306 , 21362 , 15193114 , A2370 , 2370 , CRS2461 , CRS2370 , 22840117 , 15193107 , 52404243 , 2945 , 735008

Qty:
$151.88
APDI Radiator
  • With 34 inch Core With Engine Oil Cooler And Transmission Oil Cooler
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Hummer H2 V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
APDI
2010 Hummer H3T Radiator 5 Cyl 3.7L APDI

P311-372C3B1    8012855  New

CU2855 , 13017 , 21645 , 25964054 , CU13017 , 15828004 , 438221 , 25827383 , 21730 , CRS2855 , 2855

Qty:
$153.39
APDI Radiator
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Hummer H3T L 5 Cyl 3.7L 223 3654
CSF Radiator
2004 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.0L CSF Radiator

P311-2710B9B    3728  New

22840115 , GM3010476 , CU2370 , 13029 , 22840116 , 2370 , GM3010274

Qty:
$164.85
  • Radiator
  • Tech Note: Original Equipment Manufacturer style Plastic tanks & Aluminum core OE Style Design
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bottom Hose Fitting (In): 1 9/16 Right
    • Box Height (In): 7 1/16
    • Box Length (In): 41 7/8
    • Box Width (In): 23 9/16
    • Core Material: Aluminum
    • Cross-flow/ Down-flow: Cross Flow
    • Inlet Length (In): 18 1/16
    • Inlet Width (In): 2 3/4
    • Oil Cooler (In): 11 1/2 (high-efficiency Plate Type) ;11 1/2 (high-efficiency Plate Type)
    • Outlet Length (In): 18 1/16
    • Outlet Width (In): 2 3/4
    • Tank Material: Plastic
    • Tech Note: O.e.m. Style Plastic Tanks & Aluminum Core;with Quick-connect Oil Cooler Fittings.
    • Top Hose Fitting (In): 1 5/16 Left
  • CSF factories are ISO/TSO certified;CSF Radiators are designed and built to High Performance Standards & sold worldwide for over 50 years - over 30 Million Units Sold!;Our Radiators are carefully engineered & Wind Tunnel Tested in labratory for Cooling Performance Validation;We have over 10,000 different models of Radiators that we manufacture & supply for all the leading brands of vehicles on the road
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Hummer H2 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
CSF Radiator
2008 Hummer H3 Radiator 5 Cyl 3.7L CSF Radiator - 1 Row Plastic Tank Aluminum Core

P311-5DFDCD3    3720  New

25964054 , 2855 , CU2855 , 8012855 , HU3010102 , HU3010101 , 25964053 , CU13017 , 13017

Qty:
$107.52
  • Radiator
  • Tech Note: Original Equipment Manufacturer style Plastic tanks & Aluminum core OE Style Design
  • 1 Row Plastic Tank Aluminum Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bottom Hose Fitting (In): 1 9/16 Left
    • Box Height (In): 5 11/16
    • Box Length (In): 31 1/4
    • Box Width (In): 26 1/2
    • Core Material: Aluminum
    • Cross-flow/ Down-flow: Down Flow
    • Inlet Length (In): 23 1/4
    • Inlet Width (In): 1 7/8
    • Oil Cooler (In): 12 (high-efficiency Plate Type)
    • Outlet Length (In): 23 1/4
    • Outlet Width (In): 1 7/8
    • Tank Material: Plastic
    • Tech Note: O.e.m. Style Plastic Tanks & Aluminum Core;with Quick-connect Oil Cooler Fittings.
    • Top Hose Fitting (In): 1 5/16 Right
  • CSF factories are ISO/TSO certified;CSF Radiators are designed and built to High Performance Standards & sold worldwide for over 50 years - over 30 Million Units Sold!;Our Radiators are carefully engineered & Wind Tunnel Tested in labratory for Cooling Performance Validation;We have over 10,000 different models of Radiators that we manufacture & supply for all the leading brands of vehicles on the road
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hummer H3 L 5 Cyl 3.7L 223 3654
TYC Products
2003 Hummer H2 Radiator 8 Cyl 6.0L TYC Products

P311-23B4E1C    2370  New

15841570 , 52487603 , 221-9010 , 21649 , 221-9010 / 221-9011 / 221-9514 , CV37095A , 9590 , 21573 , 2632 , 21653 , REA41-13029A REA41-2370A REA41 , 15841574 , RA20060 , RA20111 , 432306 , 8012370 , 20935856 , CU2370 , GM3010274 , 25811504 , 22840116

Qty:
$146.76
  • TYC Radiator Assembly
  • Core Height (IN): 17.24 Core Length (IN): 34.02 Core Material: Aluminum Core Thickness (IN): 1.02 EOC (Yes/No): Yes EOC Distance (IN): 11.50 EOC Inlet Diameter (IN): 0.37 EOC Inlet Diameter (mm): 9.5 EOC Inlet Type: Quick Connect EOC Outlet Diameter (IN): 0.37 EOC Outlet Type: QC fitting EOC Type: Plate Oil Cooler Fin Count (Every 4"): 51 Fin Wave Height (IN): 0.35 Find Wave Pitch: 4 Flow Configuration: Crossflow Inlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp Inlet Diameter (IN): 1.30 No. of Rows: 1 Outlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp Outlet Diameter (IN): 1.57 TOC (Yes/No): Yes TOC Distance (IN): 11.50 TOC Type: Plate Oil Cooler Total Fin Row Count: 40 Total Tube Count: 39 Tube Count (Every 4"): 10 Tube Width x Height: 26x2
  • Product Attributes:
    • Accessories Included: 2 X Toc Adapters (5/8-18unfx 21), 1 X Toc Hose Clamp (blue)
    • Bottom Header: 3.16x18.5
    • Core Height (IN): 17.24
    • Core Material: Aluminum
    • EOC (Yes/No): Yes
    • EOC Inlet Diameter (mm): 9.5
    • EOC Inlet Type: Quick Connect
    • EOC Outlet Type: Qc Fitting
    • EOC Type: Plate Oil Cooler
    • Find Wave Pitch: 4
    • Flow Configuration: Crossflow
    • Inlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp
    • Outlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp
    • TOC (Yes/No): Yes
    • TOC Type: Plate Oil Cooler
    • Top Header: 3.16x18.5
    • Total Fin Row Count: 40
    • Total Tube Count: 39
    • Tube Count (Every 4"): 10
    • Tube Width x Height: 26x2
Brand: TYC Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Hummer H2 Automatic V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2007 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-336332D    W0133-1868632  New

Qty:
$535.13
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2007 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-336332D    W0133-1868632  New

Qty:
$535.13
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2007 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-336332D    W0133-1868632  New

Qty:
$535.13
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hummer H2
Metrix
2008 Hummer H2 Radiator Metrix - Plastic Tank

P311-1AF1C2E    W0133-1968875  New

Qty:
$266.76
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2008 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-5926EE3    W0133-1968875  New

Qty:
$313.63
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2003 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-53FAEA5    W0133-1959151  New

Qty:
$484.04
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hummer H2
Metrix
2003 Hummer H2 Radiator Metrix - with Oil Cooler

P311-3DD7E0D    W0133-1959151  New

Qty:
$215.55
Metrix Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • with Oil Cooler
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2003 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-53FAEA5    W0133-1959151  New

Qty:
$484.04
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hummer H2
ACDelco
2003 Hummer H2 Radiator ACDelco

P311-53FAEA5    W0133-1959151  New

Qty:
$484.04
ACDelco Radiator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM OE Lifetime Warranty
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hummer H2
CSF
2008 Hummer H3 Radiator 5 Cyl 3.7L CSF - Plastic Tank

P311-0C356CE    W0133-1906104  New

Qty:
$168.13
CSF Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
  • Plastic Tank
Brand: CSF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hummer H3 Automatic L 5 Cyl 3.7L 223 3654
Koyo Cooling
2008 Hummer H3 Radiator 5 Cyl 3.7L Koyo Cooling

P311-307A4F6    W0133-1906104  New

Qty:
$199.41
Koyo Cooling Radiator
  • Aluminum Core
Brand: Koyo Cooling
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hummer H3 Automatic L 5 Cyl 3.7L 223 3654

Latest Hummer Repair and Radiator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Air filter box intake

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From BollWeevil on Air filter box intake

Just bought:
2009 F150 XLT 5.4L 4x4

Stock air filter box (new KN reusable flat filter) and tubing to throttle body; but my question is about the air intake into the filter box.

Where air enters the filter box, it appeared to me to be so confined that significantly little air could get in. This was due to the side panel, plastic from tire fender well, and 2 rubber skirtings (which appear to have no use other than keeping water/mud away from box) completely encasing the filter box intake.

So I ran a 3" HVAC duct from the box intake down in between radiator and bumper/grill. The duct is about 4' long. There is definitely plenty of air available now; however am I losing fuel efficiency, power or is the engine working harder now that it has to suck air through 4 more feet? Have I done a good thing or should I change it back? Thanks

Response From BollWeevil

What's so bad about K&N filters? And what brand would you recommend? And the only non stock item is the 4' HVAC duct. So the only difference is more air is available. Again I bought this used, so I don't know if the rubber skirts are modifications. I do know that the air filter box and all the tubing to the throttle body are stock. I agree Ford has done their research but my question hasn't been answered.

Is it more of a strain to suck air an additional 4'? This is the only difference.

I've considered water/mud but I don't go through deep enough to worry. Normal driving and even heavy rain and puddles pure physics shows that no water is getting into air filter much less throttle body. In fact my set up is less likely for this to happen because the water would have to travel about 3-4' up to get to the filter then pass through it onto the throttle body. The original stock intake is basically level with the tubes and throttle body.

I can see what you're saying about the MAF sensor however I don't see how there's additional turbulence because the air goes through the stock air filter, but you may be right.

More air is better and it's free. The only thing done is how far air intake is from the filter box and filter. If there was a complete obstruction over the stock filter box intake then it gets no air thus won't run.

Does anyone know if an additional 4' will cause poorer fuel efficiency?

Response From Hammer Time

I can see we're just wasting our typing here.

Let me reiterate.

K&N makes claims that aren't true. They are just junk and unnecessary modifications.

If you doubt water can make it all the way into the cylinder, you are in for a surprise. I have personally seen it happen over a dozen times with complete catastrophic results.

More air is not an automatic benefit. The system is engineered with all the air the engine is capable of drawing in.

Take that junk and throw it in the trash where it belongs.

Response From BollWeevil

Water was an original concern for me; yet I didn't think there was any way it could get to the engine. Thanks for sharing your insight.

Still can't upload any pictures. Hopefully I explained my situation effectively and your advice is applicable. I can't educate myself if I don't ask, so thanks for all your time. It's been helpful

Response From Hammer Time

Water was an original concern for me; yet I didn't think there was any way it could get to the engine.

I guarantee you that if you drive through high water with a low air pick up, you will be buying an engine. I have personally seen at least a dozen destroyed that way, 3 in the same storm one time.

Let's be clear what we are saying about K&N. It is an over priced but quality filter but it will not increase your horsepower or fuel mileage one bit, no matter what crap they sling you to sell it.

Response From BollWeevil

Sure I can see submerging the intake would create problems. Now that I've learned it's possible even without going through high water I can make changes.

I didn't know anything about the K&N filter so I'm not sure what the "hype" is they're trying to sell. I didn't care what filter I got. The only reason I got the K&N was it was washable and reuseable. I'm guessing that's one of the things they are advertising that y'all are saying isn't as great as they claim.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - Quit wasting time - they don't help at best. Nice thought they are re-usable - so are ones in some lawnmowers!
Own an oil bath air filter in a tractor that works right now - designed for it.


Have seen OE Caravans (The Chrysler minivans) suck up water OE and bang - game over. That was OE! They are also owned by FIAT now for their shear brilliance!


Things that don't work off the top of my head that are not suggested up to cause harm:
1. Spark plugs with wild claims.


2. 99% of products to improve how it runs you add to fuel.


3. Sealers - 99% cause problems not fix them.


4. Magic fuel additives like octane boosters + junk that makes more power increases MPG lots - not.


5. Little Tree Air fresheners do work - about an hour! Buy those instead as they don't hurt much, don't mess with engine operation unless you put one in air intake.
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Almost or more than an entire isle of especially chain parts outlets sell tons of stuff that plain doesn't work because it sells. Companies pay them off for end isle displays even. They pay for what position on store shelves also - grocery stores are famous for this. It's not chance - it's corrupt marketing - buyers beware. It's legal for them to do that.
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You just got this thing and understand the excitement. Save you money and just keep the thing in excellent shape and maintain it. If you must buy LED tire valve lights, stickers, decals, floor mats or something harmless.


Things that work:
1. Synthetic oils (some vehicles require it)
2. Proper care as per Owner's Manual - read it.
3. Driving carefully
4. Keep tires at proper pressure! (unreal how many don't)
5. Park in shade and out of weather if possible - climate controlled garaged best.


That's about it. The rest of anything is almost all bullcrap,


Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote you ">>I can't see a major company making illegal stock air filters."
It's not illegal to sell junk and it's J-U-N-K with superior marketing and lies. Already said if it worked it would be original equipment.


What you risk is altering a VERY important part of how the engine runs. The vehicle knows the incoming air speed and temperature and adjusts instantly and accordingly to max out performance, fuel economy with the least emissions. That's why you already have problems - you messed that up with JUNK. It's not meant for vehicles much newer than now about 40 year old stuff you could dress up and make some extra performance over original design.


If this picks up water already mentioned it will instantly destroy the whole engine - nice idea and it really will if just the right puddle and situation will suck in water which doesn't compress. If forced to try to it will crack the engine hopelessly. It's legal to allow that if you drank the Kool-Aid. Some places, where I live by chance it's illegal to touch anything OE about an engine - period. If noticed it would be towed from a public road at your expense and you can do what you want on your own property but not on a public road.


You could recolor or chrome exact parts.


For an air filter there are aftermarket brands that are exact duplicates of the original for routine replacement. You do NOT have to buy one from Ford in this case, Fram, Purolator, Wix, Napa brands and a dozen more and it's possible K&N makes an OE one just put it in - no alterations.


It's more than just wrecking your performance it's not proven fire safe TMK also. A backfire isn't necessarily controlled by this mess.


Not trying to be a kill-joy but the alterations and fun to play around with an engine about ended in model year 1983 or so where I am. Still can't alter visually any safety or item that could change emissions.


Forget legalities if you want as with hood closed who would know? The problem is it doesn't work - it's a lie to sell you this stuff and they got away with it.
Hey - this site is loaded with techs, younger or older from all over the US a couple from Canada about the same vehicles sold.


Sorry to beat up on this but you ARE having problems already proving it doesn't work. Replies are by tech's that know it doesn't work. This is MA where I am. Look at the sticker under your hood someplace that states the vehicle complies with standards for CA and MA when sold new. If not there you would have to put it back or couldn't buy a new car/vehicle and register it here without a certificate that it's been certified compliant - most would be new now and have been.


I don't personally care what you do to your own property AYOR if it works or not, this doesn't.
Nuff said - have at it or learn the hard way,


Tom

Response From BollWeevil

I genuinely appreciate your time and info. I don't know what to believe from you. You've contradicted yourself. In your first post K&N is a terrible filter. Now in your second post you list it with other brands as ok to use??? You seem to think I have problems with my truck which I don't. The truck is running just fine with the way I have set it up. I was hoping to get some better MPG and in the city it seems the same yet hwy I'll have to wait and see. The other information you've provided I appreciate and will consider. However it does seem that all are saying it's not a good idea to extend the air intake hole, and won't increase fuel efficiency.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - I/we've bashed K&N enough mostly because they claim bull that isn't true. IF they stuck to just making good air filter, and other things they'd gain respect.
Parts by brand change like the wind. OE isn't made by the manufacturer of any - it's all sent out to make to a certain specification and put their name on it. IDK a car maker that makes tires, shocks, wiring harnesses the metal - not much. They design it which costs billions and if a big mistake go bankrupt like that hasn't happened.


It's wildly completive to make a vehicle - about any, with some bragging rights. Power in it's class, towing capacity, safety, MPGs, dependability and a long list. If something was so easy as changing how air is inducted/routed gave it even 1% it would be done new. If they don't sell and make customers happy they are toast.


Light of heart sport. It's a good truck by design without messing with it. Best thing you could do for it is use proper rated synthetic oils and greases an changed on time.


Good luck with it,


Tom

Response From BollWeevil

Good to hear about synthetic oil, that's what I went with and Ford's recommended 5w-20.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Its not so much the K&N filter element, it's the use of too much oil. I wouldn't put an oiled air filter on a MAF system regardless. The paper filters does a fine job as long as they are sealed properly.

GM has a TSB on this:

Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B

Date: February 01, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:
Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air Filter

Models:
2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2007 and Prior Saturn Models
2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:

Service Engine Soon (SES) light on

Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.

Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.



I would consider this TSB to apply to any vehicle.

Response From BollWeevil

Thanks I appreciate your time, you've given me helpful information to go forward. Especially with the oiled filter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't need to see anything but words K&N - remove all that junk and put back OE set up exactly. It's all junk, harms performance, doesn't work as advertised, may be illegal in places.


Think: This truck is possibly the most popular vehicle never mind a truck there is. If some crappy junk made it work better, run better, cleaner, more power so easily Ford would have done it new OE. Everything including temp of air coming in, pressure by design of body and not allowing water to enter all count big time,


T

Response From BollWeevil

Not sure what you mean by all that junk. The only modification is a 4' HVAC duct? What filter brand would you recommend? I can't see a major company making illegal stock air filters. It's what an individual may put on that could be illegal, and mine isn't.

Response From Discretesignals

You should change it back. You might be causing a ram air situation which will cause the MAF sensor output to be different than what it normally would be. You also might be changing the way the air flows through the sensor due to turbulence. The software in the PCM is not set up to handle ram air or supercharging conditions.

The engineers know how much air flow the engine requires and how to design the air intake system to get the best performance/economy and at the same time reduce intake air noise. Unless you were modifying the engine so it pumps more air why change the characteristics of the air intake system?

Response From Hammer Time

So I ran a 3" HVAC duct from the box intake down in between radiator and bumper/grill. The duct is about 4' long.

That is the dumbest and fastest way i know to blow an engine. The first rain puddle you hit and that thing takes a gulp of water and your connecting rod is going to ventilate the side of your block.

I agree with Tom. Take that K&N crap and throw it away. It has absolutely NO BENEFIT whatsoever. It's marketing hype.

Heater core 2001 Blazer

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From DLTODARO on Heater core 2001 Blazer

Have a 2001 Blazer 4x4 w/ ZR2 package. The issue is heater core,, I paid to have it replaced after purchase in 2005 and again in 2010 by my self and brother in law. What a job. It has again gone out, dont understand why. I did replace radiator, water pump, intake gaskets all this summer so my only guess is debris has somehow damaged it. But the replacements are really junk with there swivel necks and seals. Cant find good ole copper and solder.
Anyways not really up to the 7 hour job it was last time so " Can I access the heater core a different way than removing the whole dash". Even if that means cutting a hole in the top of dash or firewall?

Thanks
Don

Response From Hammer Time

No, you cannot short cut it in any way. You need to flush the system thoroughly and then fill it with Dexcool. I would then test for electrolysis in the coolant with a voltmeter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don - Are you saying this is on its third heater core already? Something is wrong with that scene. Pretty rare to me but I would be checking as HT suggested for some electrolysis problem. Ground things out if additional plain strap ground wires are easy and available.

I don't think this is about what type of antifreeze unless you are using battery acid this is too much. As said it calls for Dexcool which is still just a version of ethylene glycol and IDK why it or any is picking on the heater core?

Make sure hoses to core are correct. It would be a wild maybe that the input hose has too much direct pressure from the water pump. About all use a smaller hose for the in hose or an unseen restrictor in a hose so higher RPMs don't overwhelm the thing,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Dexcool which is still just a version of ethylene glycol and IDK why it or any is picking on the heater core?


Green regular coolant ---------- contains silicates

Dexcool --------------------------- No silicates

Response From DLTODARO

Why dexcool, everything I read steers away from dexcool. It still gets hot just fogging windows and smell. Will a product such as Blue devil seal the leak?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Don't believe everything you read from non-professionals.
DO NOT put sealer in the system or you will be replacing the radiator too.

Read this bulletin


INFORMATION

Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A

Date: July 16, 2008

Subject:
Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement

Models:
2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2003-2005 HUMMER H2

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.

The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.

Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.

Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in this bulletin.

Technician Diagnosis

^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be flushed.

^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information (SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.

^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor. Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.

Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.

^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)

Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the Owner's Manual.

^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.

^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M, following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.

If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.

Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65%.

Coolant dripping below heater core inlet hose

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From anavrin on Coolant dripping below heater core inlet hose

First of all, thanks in advance for any help or advice. It is really great there are forums like this to help people, especially when money is tight.

2005
Chevrolet
Equinox
3.4
70,000 miles

I just have a quick question before I start to tear into the dash to replace the heater core. I have the classic symptoms of a heater core leak (coolant smell and thick foggy windows), but don't have any dampness anywhere on the vehicle floor. It is definitely leaking coolant, as I topped it off and it was gone a few days later (I haven't been driving it). I went looking for leaks and noticed there is a consistent drip from something (a valve?) below the heater core inlet hose. See picture below for the location:



Can somebody let me know what that is called? And if possible, what might cause it to be leaking when the engine's not running?

Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

That's the drain for the A/C condensation. Assuming it's cold where you are and that can't be condensation water from the A/C, it would have to be the coolant you have been looking for.

Response From anavrin

Hey Hammer Time,

Thank you for the quick and spot on reply. That definitely gives me more to research. I'm guessing the heater core is leaking and it is somehow coming out the a/c condensation drain. I'll update this post when I've got it figured.

Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

Nothing to figure out. It's very common to leak out there with a bad heater core. Where the coolant comes out is determined by the design of the housing and which direction the coolant runs.

Response From Discretesignals

Weird picture... Looks like a brake booster with heater hose connections coming out of it. Must be right hand drive.

Response From Hammer Time

That's the Equinox design. It drains on the driver's side.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Some good info, so you don't have a repeat failure:

INFORMATION

Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A

Date: July 16, 2008

Subject:
Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement

Models:
2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2003-2005 HUMMER H2

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.

The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.

Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.

Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in this bulletin.

Technician Diagnosis

^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be flushed.

^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information (SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.

^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor. Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.

Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.

^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)

Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the Owner's Manual.

^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.

^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M, following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.

If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.

Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65%.

Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant

Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R). The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color. Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.

Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.

^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.

^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3) times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L), conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M, following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.

If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water (preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to restore coolant to the appropriate level.

Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels should be between 50% and 65%.

Response From anavrin

Wow. Great info. This place is awesome. Thanks for your help. I'll make sure to use the right coolant next time. I've got a date with the dashboard this weekend.

Response From Discretesignals

Just be careful and don't blow your face off working around the air bag system. Your probably going to be working around zones 3 & 5, so disarm those zones before removing any components or working around their circuits after disconnecting the battery.



SIR SERVICE PRECAUTIONS

CAUTION: When performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, the SIR system must be disabled. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling Zones. Failure to observe the correct procedure could cause deployment of the SIR components, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.

The inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) maintains a reserved energy supply. The reserved energy supply provides deployment power for the air bags. Deployment power is available for as much as 1 minute after disconnecting the vehicle power. Disabling the SIR system prevents deployment of the air bags from the reserved energy supply.


GENERAL SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS

The following are general service instructions which must be followed in order to properly repair the vehicle and return it to its original integrity:
- Do not expose inflator modules to temperatures above 65 °C (150 °F).
- Verify the correct replacement part number. Do not substitute a component from a different vehicle.
- Use only original GM replacement parts available from your authorized GM dealer. Do not use salvaged parts for repairs to the SIR system.

Discard any of the following components if it has been dropped from a height of 91 cm (3 ft) or greater:
- Inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
- Inflatable restraint I/P module
- Inflatable restraint steering wheel module
- Inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil
- Inflatable restraint roof rail modules
- Inflatable restraint sides (SIS)
- Inflatable restraint seat be pretensioners
- Inflatable restraint front end sensor.





Zone 3 disarm:

1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicles wheels are pointing straight ahead.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
4. Locate the body control module fuse center then remove the fuse center cover.

5. Locate and remove the AIR BAG fuse from the body control module fuse center.

IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG fuse removed and the ignition switch in the ON position, the AIR BAG warning indicator illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system malfunction.

6. Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) from the steering wheel module coil connector.

7. Disconnect the steering wheel module coil connector from the vehicle harness connector.

ENABLING PROCEDURE
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Connect the steering wheel module coil connector to the vehicle harness connector.
3. Install the CPA to the steering wheel module coil connector.

4. Install the AIR BAG fuse into the body control module fuse center.
5. Install the body control module fuse center cover.
6. Use caution while reaching in and turn the ignition switch to the ON position.The AIR BAG indicator will flash then turn OFF.
7. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning indicator does not operate as described. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle in Vehicle DTC Information.

Zone 5 disarm:


SIR DISABLING AND ENABLING ZONE 5

DISABLING PROCEDURE
1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicles wheels are pointing straight ahead.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
4. Locate the body control module fuse center, then remove the fuse center cover.

5. Locate and remove the AIR BAG fuse from the body control module fuse center.

IMPORTANT: With the AIR BAG fuse removed and the ignition switch in the ON position, the AIR BAG warning indicator illuminates. This is normal operation, and does not indicate an SIR system malfunction.

6. Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) from the I/P module connector.
7. Disconnect the I/P module connector from the vehicle harness connector.

ENABLING PROCEDURE
1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Connect the I/P module connector to the vehicle harness connector.
3. Install the CPA to the I/P module connector.

4. Install the AIR BAG fuse into the body control module fuse center.
5. Install the body control module fuse center cover.
6. Use caution while reaching in and turn the ignition switch to the ON position.The AIR BAG indicator will flash then turn OFF.
7. Perform the SIR Diagnostic System Check if the AIR BAG warning indicator does not operate as described. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle in Vehicle DTC Information.

Response From anavrin

Thanks Discretesignals. I will definitely be careful. You may have saved my face. :)