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Gates
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2DC0AD2    New

Qty:
$20.01
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1994 - Pontiac Grand Prix
Gates
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-5713B07    New

Qty:
$20.26
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1997 - Pontiac Grand Prix
Gates
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0589CD9    New

Qty:
$21.43
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Pontiac Grand Prix
Gates
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-15EEC38    New

Qty:
$28.81
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1997 - Pontiac Grand Prix
Gates
2005 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4CE61A9    New

Qty:
$15.84
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Pontiac Grand Prix
Gates
2003 Pontiac Vibe Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-10C26BC    New

Qty:
$20.58
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 01/2002-, Outlet
  • - Outlet
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Vibe
Gates
2004 Pontiac Vibe Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-10C26BC    New

Qty:
$20.58
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Outlet
  • - Outlet
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Pontiac Vibe
Gates
1998 Pontiac Sunfire Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4063071    New

Qty:
$23.30
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Pontiac Sunfire
Gates
1999 Pontiac Grand Am Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0A64649    New

Qty:
$22.97
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1999 - Pontiac Grand Am
Gates
1989 Pontiac Bonneville Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0B408B6    New

Qty:
$18.34
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Pontiac Bonneville
Gates
2000 Pontiac Bonneville Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1B69AEC    New

Qty:
$24.08
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Pontiac Bonneville
Gates
2000 Pontiac Bonneville Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4DDDEA6    New

Qty:
$18.61
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2000 - Pontiac Bonneville
Gates
2003 Pontiac Sunfire Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0AC0E2A    New

Qty:
$16.54
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • with A/C
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Sunfire
ACDelco
1996 Pontiac Sunfire Radiator Coolant Hose ACDelco

P311-175B41D    New

Qty:
$21.38
ACDelco Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1996 - Pontiac Sunfire
Gates
2005 Pontiac Vibe Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0F2D040    New

Qty:
$19.25
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Pontiac Vibe
Gates
2003 Pontiac Vibe Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0F2D040    New

Qty:
$19.25
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 01/2002-
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Vibe
Gates
2001 Pontiac Aztek Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-091D2ED    New

Qty:
$20.61
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2001 - Pontiac Aztek
MacKay
2005 Pontiac GTO Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-1BC8F5B    New

Qty:
$20.15
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: MacKay
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Pontiac GTO
Gates
2004 Pontiac GTO Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-301CECC    New

Qty:
$40.61
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Pontiac GTO
Gates
2009 Pontiac G3 Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1CDA386    New

Qty:
$22.63
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Pontiac G3

Latest Pontiac Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Please help - 1996 Pontiac grand am radiator hose

Showing 9 out of 22 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From kkaiser80 on Please help - 1996 Pontiac grand am radiator hose

I own a 1996 Pontiac grand am SE 3.1l v6. A radiator hose recently came loose and dumped all my antifreeze causing me to overheat, I found the loose hose and reconnected it to the radiator and tightened the clap down. I purged the system and refilled it full of coolant. I drove it about twenty miles and my temperature gauge showed normal temperature the whole way, when I got home a very small amount of steam was coming by where the hose originally came off. could this just be spilled antifreeze being heated up by the engine? should I spray down the engine bay and drive it again?

Response From GC

It could be. More importantly, did you figure out why the hose came off in the first place? Before I drove it and risked damaging anything, I would want it pressure tested to be sure that there are no leaks. Look carefully at the fitting on the radiator that it came off of. Did you look at the hose closely when it was off? Normally when a hose pops off, Im inclined to replace the hose and any clamps and look carefully for leaks elsewhere. I wouldnt spray down the engine bay, but thats just my opinion, I dont like spraying water or cleaner onto electronics. People do it, but I dont like it. Id rather spend a bit more time trying to wipe it down carefully.

Response From kkaiser80

So replace the clap and hose. Ok, I'm just wondering why the steam was so minimal and to the side of the hose, but my cars temperature was normal if not lower then normal after driving twenty miles. I notice a bulge just before the clamp on the hose, not very big though. And just a month ago I could smell antifreeze in the cab, especially with heater on, so I put radiator stop leak which reduced the smell almost completely. could the leak be coming from that hose causing the smell, and maybe a pressure problem which initially knocked the hose off? And its still leaking on something hot causing the steam? I appreciate the help.

Response From nickwarner


And just a month ago I could smell antifreeze in the cab, especially with heater on, so I put radiator stop leak which reduced the smell almost completely.




Oh boy, you've gone and made your life much more difficult. You'll find yourself regretting doing that. I wouldn't drive to the parts house to get the hose. The hose is compromised and has failed. You might make it, but maybe not.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you have to walk that's a problem getting things or would be for many. I don't like those flush kit things you install in a hose. That's worth just paying to have done and many deals out there but may surface leaks but better to know then not.
Many parts outlets rent things like pressure testers free, full cost deposits on safe return. Know how to use one or learn. Cheap enough to own is a dental type mirror to look for active leaks. Wipe dry and see them return is good proof. 3.1 engine right? Water pump is easy on those so look under side of it, flashlight, mirror or come up with a wet finger there's trouble there to isolate.


Hoses can make a fish line type squirt at another area and fool you so look hard for real source.


Car repairs certainly can be costly but more costly in many area to do wrong or break something for lack of tools or know how so work on what is realistic to do yourself or send out.


Coolant anything warnings: It's highly toxic so don't allow it sitting in a pan as animals really will drink it! Disposal of it - use your head. Ask where you buy it is a good bet. Filling the system can be difficult to know it's truly full. Just that, know how or get help.


As heard from a carpenter. "Measure twice, cut once" is a good rule of thumb


Tom

Response From kkaiser80

So with this said, don't go no where, get that hose. By walking my ***. Lol. And possible flushing and pressure test? Where to go to get pressurr tests? And are the walmart radiator flush kits worthy? Recommendation? Maybe a list of exactly what to do?thanks guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

After 20 miles it should have quit active steam so high chance something is however slight still leaking on something hot,


T

Response From kkaiser80

Ok I know what to do now. Thanks! Can anyone explain the steam even though the car was not overheating after twenty miles. For details read the top post. It was a very small amount of steam.

Response From kkaiser80

Yeah because I just checked the level of coolant which is still full. If anything slightly under. And then got the car to normal running temperature (idling) while keeping a close eye, no steam or anything. I'm going to replace the hose, and see if that stops the leak/ that steamy occasion. And then possibly get it flushed, its not overheating at all. Actually since I had to put new coolant in it due to the hose coming off in the first place it actually ran cooler on the temperature gauge then normal.not by much at all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - just get rid of hose but of course you have to drain coolant to do that. Full at a recovery tank is not proof that it's really full in system, know that. Many cars can cycle just cold to warm and self purge out last air and some don't. That air unseen inside engine where sensors are can fool sensors for how hot it is and should be in liquid not air.


Sealer must go - no if's and's or but's. It's clogging areas usually heater cores first, radiator or just inhibiting system to work properly.


Beat on this a bit as I do: Sealers are mostly just sawdust that seeks a leak, expands and can seal it. Fine except cooling systems for decades are designed with smaller passage ways smaller and more efficient for their size. Lighter metals and don't really even flush out so well. Days of things you could put a coat hanger thru are ancient history - laugh/cry - I was there!


I don't think you can save that antifreeze now or at least the best attempt would be iffy to filter it all out. There should be hex or possibly square bolts low on sides of engine block to get it all out. Know which ones. The easily seal up with junk anyway there but engine is not really empty with a radiator draining alone. Usually those plug bolts mentioned you just poke some soft wire or plastic then the rest comes out. OK if you don't do that or find them at least flush till clear, thermostat out all directions. Add pure antifreeze based on listed capacity first then the water for a 50/50 mix is almost always best with few exceptions,


T

Response From kkaiser80

The coolant in it now, doesn't have the stop leak in, I put that in a month ago. Yesterday my hose came out, dumped the coolant that had the stop leak everywhere, today I put the hose back on, opened up the purge valve or whatever to let air out of the system and filled it with fresh coolant until it filled up and out the purge valve, meaning full. I drive it twenty five miles or so and it didn't get hot, and I didn't notice any steam. I parked and seen a slight amount of steam near where the hose had can undone and dumped coolant. It was a small amount of steam. The steam was gone in probably twenty seconds it was that small of a amount.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You didn't flush it so it still has sealer in it just less now. No pressure test mentioned so you aren't done and still not sure of much yet. Hope you aren't just adding pure antifreeze as alone it's a terrible coolant and must be a mix with water.


Steam still an unknown and if any air trapped a maybe purge port or not. You need to start engine cold feeling upper radiator hose with no pressure squeeze it and look for bubbles at recovery tank and let warm up also till hose gets warm up to too hot to touch means thermostat has opened and most would burp out air at that time to recovery tank. Shut down engine and as it cools off the volume of coolant shrinks and draws back coolant from the recovery tank not air in cycles of that stays air free inside the engine but only if it is tight. If it can't hold pressure then wherever it leaks just draws air back in there.


You aren't done. You'll blow this engine for not making it right is the risk - your money, your call now,


Tom

Response From kkaiser80

So start engine and squeeze upper radiator to check if there is pressure? And if I hear air being drawn in I'll know there's a leak. And once I squeezed hose bubbles should or shouldn't appear in reservoir? And yes, the antifreeze I had to dilute by Adding water. Dexpool extended life.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The idea is feeling the upper hose, a larger hose, you should be able to squish it some cold -- that should be NO pressure feel. Saying this as I doubt you have a pressure tester - yet?
Start engine and as it warms the coolant mix will expand as it warms and you would feel hose gain pressure as it should. At the point of the rating on pressure cap it sends the extra out to that tank maintaining the pressure but not too much.


As coolant cools it shrinks and pressure cap will allow air up top into the recovery tank but return liquid coolant from the bottom to engine and radiator. I'm saying that the small hose from radiator to that recovery tank goes into bottom of the recovery tank, any air would rise but draw back only liquid. That if perfect on many would self purge air out of the system but not all.


If you just squeeze that upper hose when there's no pressure and air bubble up into recovery tank there more air where it doesn't belong - test still inconclusive as to why. It could just not have bleed out air from draining for any reason or sucking air back in thru a leak instead of the recovery tank. OR, could have combustion gasses being introduced into cooling system which is usually from a blown head gasket.


If head gaskets can do that the pressure frequently builds in the system much faster than from just warming up, never be properly air/vapor free and problems will show up and get worse.


Doing this with about no tools so just know that upper hose stays cool till thermostat opens. Also if heater whether needed or not can't blow warm/hot air it's probably air in system or vapors from combustion as a clue. Another clue it level in recovery tank getting fuller is indicative of problems. Pressure cap controls how much pressure and allows the air back in. That if no good screws the show up too.


HEY - USE A GLOVE IT TOUCHING HOSE AS I SAID. HOSE SURE CAN GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN YOU AND STAY AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS WITH A RUNNING ENGINE ALWAYS!


Some cars are plain fussy and time consuming to plain fill. Shops will use a vacuum fill method which is a must on some cars and doesn't tie up the vehicle getting it properly filled quickly.


Anything more confusing about this it needs to be sent out. That's as primal as I can get,


T

Response From kkaiser80

When I squeeze the hose with engine cool and off no bubbles appear, so no air is being pushed in the reservoir, and with engine on and at running temperature the hose has good pressure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK, so far so good and glad it holds pressure but again not build up too fast as said.


As for odor for so long IDK for sure. If it runs well and coolant level stays between cold/hot marks on the recovery tank you may be ok. Heater should be able to run normally and no overheat warnings from a light or the gauge. You may have lucked out. Check it like a hawk till all is stable and carry some extra antifreeze with you.


One more: If the spring looking type clamp that both a hex or flat head screwdriver works it check it on a new hose later, engine off but on warm side and just make those - say - screwdriver tight. They work and are used a lot. Good luck,


T

Response From kkaiser80

Thanks, yeah, no over heating, and I've carried a antifreeze jug and a couple liters of water in the trunk in case anything happens. The hose seems to be tight and stable everytime I Check it, and antifreeze remains in the reservoir everytime I check. Thank you so much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for bringing that up Nick. I forgot and was concentration on the dang clamp bull. Days of cutting off a hose to a good spot are long gone too. Hose needs to be out of there and sealer flushed out. I'll save the novel on why just get it out and fix leaks.


Too bad assorted junk doesn't come with bold printed warnings that it may not work and may cause a small problem to be a disaster. If it sells they'll make it. Buyer beware on magic like that,


T

Response From kev2

the swelling bulging hose is reason enough to replace it...

At the shop we would replace hose and then pressure test the cooling system - trying to recreate the failure or being satisfied we have corrected it before returning to service.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Notes on this: You tightened the clamp so it's not an original clamp that stays tight by itself under spring action. OE clamps can be a pest or cut off along the way and these get used.........
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4738501237672768&w=183&h=182&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7


Fine but you need to snug those up after a warm up and again later before they will stay OK for a long time.


This type was almost the only type used TMK by GM that stays tight........Basic style idea shown........
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4553774708688484&w=226&h=170&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7


Can take a special tool to get those off and back on. Those first clamp types can wreck a good hose if overtightened.


OK: The smell of any spilled antifreeze should have dissipated in 20 miles of use so needs more checking. Avoid washing engine but suggest blow off any pooled antifreeze if any or dry it up with towels.


You might have lucked out on real damage? T

Response From kkaiser80 Top Rated Answer

I didn't smell anything today driving that twenty miles, that was a month ago prior to using stop leak. And so the bulge could be from the clamp being to tight? The only thing that happened was a very small amount of steam coming from by the hose that had came off yesterday.

Response From kkaiser80

I only noticed the bulge after it had been running for a while. This all makes sense now. Need to replace that hose. Is it safe to drive the car to get the hose? It didn't overheat at all for twenty miles, the auto part store is near two miles away. Thanks guys.

2000 Pontiac Montana Thermostat r&r???

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From davegto on 2000 Pontiac Montana Thermostat r&r???

How the heck can they design a 9 dollar part that costs 140 or more to install?
Any ideas on how to do this with no real mechanical aptitude?
Help

and Thanks

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Looks like the exhaust pipe needs to be removed to access the thermostat. Look at the radiator hoses to see where the housing is. Have fun.

  1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. Refer to Air Filter Element Replacement in Computers and Controls.
  2. Drain the coolant until the coolant level is below the thermostat. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System].
  3. Remove the crossover exhaust pipe. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Replacement.
  4. Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement - Inlet.
  5. Remove the thermostat housing bolts and clean any sealer from the bolt threads.
  6. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.


Response From davegto

Thanks for the how to way2old

but alas at 50 yrs myself, can't hepp ya with the younger mind thingie so well.

and if you are the unique comedian that engineered this thermostat HIDING from
ease to replace

well? you'd be LOL about now.

If you didn't, you'd feel like i do-- dewdles!

Thanks for the info -i'm SURE that exhaust pipe will be EZ to pop off and on
after ONLY 173k miles :) yeah pizza cake!
good luck anyone else with this problem.

Response From techmeltz

Hey... Way2Old's instructions are technically correct, but I've done this about a half dozen times without removing the exhaust crossover pipe. Here's the details:
there are two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the cylinder head. the one in the back needs to be backed out a little at a time with a box-end wrench by reaching around the exhaust crossover to come at the bolt from underneath. I tend to take two with different offsets, and then swap between them. Once the bolt is a little loose, you can use your fingers (it will take both hands, one from the top and one from the bottom) to loosen it the rest of the way. the nearer bolt is much more straight forward. when reassembling, start the rear bolt just enough to hold itself in place, then wiggle in the thermostat housing. The bolt hole is actually a slot. After you have wiggled it into place, again use both hands to finger tighten the bolt, then go back to the alternating box end wrenches.

Good Luck!

Response From leslierae

I am having a problem getting the thermostat housing off, can i take the exhaust pipe off without hurting anything?

Response From Discretesignals

Please don't hijack old threads. Create your own thread.

Locked due to age and to prevent spamming and hijacking.

Response From way2old

Good information techmeltz. However this post is 2 years old. Please watch the original post date. And welcome to the forum.

Response From dolphyn40

BTW, This post was EXTREMELY helpful for me! I have to deal with this, and cannot get to the back bolts for the exhaust... so THANKS!!!! :)

2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 overheating

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From cazadarojoe12123 on 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 overheating

My car keeps overheating if I dont have the heater on. The radiator fan works. Can someone help

Response From Hammer Time

The first thing you need to do is fill the system and pressure test it for any leaks.

Response From cazadarojoe12123

Do you mean to fill the radiator

Response From Hammer Time

I mean fill the entire system to remove all air.

Response From cazadarojoe12123

Any other ideas please help

Response From Hammer Time

There are no other ideas. You were advised to pressure test the system and you have not done that.

Response From cazadarojoe12123

How do I pressure test it.

Response From Hammer Time

You can rent or purchase a pressure tester but it is becoming increasingly obvious that this diagnosis is likely beyond your abilities and you probably should bring it into a reputable shop for diagnosis.

Response From dntchke

You can rent or purchase a pressure tester but it is becoming increasingly obvious that this diagnosis is likely beyond your abilities and you probably should bring it into a reputable shop for diagnosis.


wwoorrdd

Response From Hammer Time

OK, stop posting nonsense and stop posting to old threads.

Response From dntchke Top Rated Answer

start the car... let it run to hot. feel the motor to radiator , radiator hose. If its cold, put a new thermostat. if its hot do the pressure testing so you don't jerk a bunch of your time away chasing the rabbit down the hole

Response From cazadarojoe12123

The car was not hot when I opened the radiator cap. The car had been sitting for at least a day.

Response From cazadarojoe12123

Okay so when I pop the hood, I noticed that the overflow was full and when I open the cap to the radiator, the fluid started coming out.