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MacKay
2001 Nissan Frontier Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-17CB54D    W0133-1638301  New

Qty:
$14.82
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Pipe to thermostat
  • Lower (pipe to tstat)
Brand: MacKay
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2001 - Nissan Frontier
MacKay
2004 Nissan Frontier Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-17CB54D    W0133-1638301  New

Qty:
$14.82
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -09/2004, Pipe to thermostat
  • Lower (pipe to tstat)
Brand: MacKay
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Frontier
MacKay
1999 Nissan Frontier Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-17CB54D    W0133-1638301  New

Qty:
$14.82
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 08/1998-, Pipe to thermostat
  • Lower (pipe to tstat)
Brand: MacKay
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1999 - Nissan Frontier
MacKay
2000 Nissan Xterra Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-17CB54D    W0133-1638301  New

Qty:
$14.82
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 05/1999-, Pipe to thermostat
  • Lower (pipe to tstat)
Brand: MacKay
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Vehicle
2000 - Nissan Xterra
MacKay
2004 Nissan Xterra Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-17CB54D    W0133-1638301  New

Qty:
$14.82
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -12/2004, Pipe to thermostat
  • Lower (pipe to tstat)
Brand: MacKay
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Vehicle
2004 - Nissan Xterra
Original Equipment
2006 Nissan Armada Radiator Coolant Hose Original Equipment

P311-03CC342    W0133-1984081  New

Qty:
$9.33
Original Equipment Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Pipe to engine
Brand: Original Equipment
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2006 - Nissan Armada
Genuine
2006 Nissan Armada Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-0FB252C    W0133-1984081  New

Qty:
$9.43
Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Pipe to engine
Brand: Genuine
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2006 - Nissan Armada
Original Equipment
2005 Nissan Armada Radiator Coolant Hose Original Equipment

P311-03CC342    W0133-1984081  New

Qty:
$9.33
Original Equipment Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/2004-, Pipe to engine
Brand: Original Equipment
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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2005 - Nissan Armada
Genuine
2005 Nissan Armada Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-0FB252C    W0133-1984081  New

Qty:
$9.43
Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/2004-, Pipe to engine
Brand: Genuine
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2005 - Nissan Armada
Gates
2005 Nissan 350Z Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2BBCD75    W0133-1722366  New

Qty:
$11.94
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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2005 - Nissan 350Z
Gates
2003 Nissan 350Z Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2BBCD75    W0133-1722366  New

Qty:
$11.94
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 06/01/2002-
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2003 - Nissan 350Z
Gates
2006 Nissan 350Z Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-2BBCD75    W0133-1722366  New

Qty:
$11.94
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -10/31/2006
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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2006 - Nissan 350Z
MacKay
2003 Nissan Murano Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-249CFCE    W0133-1725612  New

Qty:
$15.18
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 09/2002-
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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2003 - Nissan Murano
MacKay
2004 Nissan Murano Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-249CFCE    W0133-1725612  New

Qty:
$15.18
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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2004 - Nissan Murano
MacKay
2004 Nissan Quest Radiator Coolant Hose MacKay

P311-249CFCE    W0133-1725612  New

Qty:
$15.18
MacKay Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 05/2003-
  • Upper
Brand: MacKay
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2004 - Nissan Quest
Gates
2005 Nissan Pathfinder Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1BACAF1    W0133-1776741  New

Qty:
$16.29
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 08/2004-
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2005 - Nissan Pathfinder
Gates
2006 Nissan Pathfinder Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1BACAF1    W0133-1776741  New

Qty:
$16.29
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2006 - Nissan Pathfinder
Gates
2005 Nissan Frontier Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1BACAF1    W0133-1776741  New

Qty:
$16.29
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 10/2004-
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2005 - Nissan Frontier
Gates
2005 Nissan Xterra Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-1BACAF1    W0133-1776741  New

Qty:
$16.29
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 01/2005-
Brand: Gates
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2005 - Nissan Xterra
Gates
2008 Nissan Rogue Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4365716    W0133-1829797  New

Qty:
$17.72
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: 08/01/2007-
Brand: Gates
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2008 - Nissan Rogue

Latest Nissan Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 Nissan Sentra No Heat

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From littlerednissan on 2005 Nissan Sentra No Heat

The heat in my 2005 Nissan Sentra is only working intermittedly. The radiator was hot on one side, but cold on the other, so we thought the radiator was clogged so we replaced the radiator and cap (which I think was leaking) and the thermostat. However the radiator is still cold on one side and the heater hoses are cold. When I start driving the heat comes on occasionally.

Response From littlerednissan

We realized after we posted the initial post, that the radiator is not actually cool on one side, he was actually feeling the ac condenser in front of the radiator and that is what felt cold.

We are still having the issue where the hoses into the radiator are hot, but the ones going into the car are not.

Just drove the car for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge never went above the half way point

Response From Sidom

If both heater hoses are cool/warm to the touch, then there is a flow problem going into the heater core. Either core is plugged up or there isn't good flow going into it....

You could try taking heater hose off & flushing it out with garden hose.

Response From littlerednissan

Forgot to mention - One of the heater hoses is definitely warmer than the other and when the heat is working it is warmer on the passenger side than the drivers side. In fact, sometimes the passenger side blows hot air and the drivers side is downright cold. Will try flushing them with a hose, thanks for the suggestion!

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine? Is it overheating?

Response From littlerednissan

Nissan Sentra 1.8S
The engine was running hot when I was stopped at lights, but would cool when I started to drive. Since we replaced the radiator it hasn't been running hot.

Response From Sidom

Have you made sure the cooling fans are coming on after the engine heats up?

Response From littlerednissan

The cooling fans are coming on.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The upper radiator hose is hot, but the lower radiator hose is cold? How did the old radiator look inside? Was it really crusty or plugged?

Response From littlerednissan

The hoses going into and out of the radiator are hot, but the hoses going from the engine into the car are not. I just drove it for about 20 minutes and the heat never came on. I parked for about 15 minutes while I ran into the store and when I fired it up the heat came on, though the air was not as warm at the red lights as when I was actually driving.

The old radiator looked fine, not crusty or plugged from what I could tell, but we are pretty sure it had a leak because it was almost empty and you could smell antifreeze when the car was running, both inside the car (through the vents) and if you were standing over the engine while it was running.

Nissan VG30E overheating

Showing 8 out of 21 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From SoapDude on Nissan VG30E overheating

I am having problems with my 1988 Nissan 200sx with the 3.0 liter VG30E engine.

It is overheating.

I started by checking to see if the lower radiator hose was getting pressure... None. So I changed the thermostat. Still nothing, so I assumed water pump.. Changed water pump (and timing belt.. boy was that fun!), and the lower radiator hose is still getting no pressure!

I let the car warm up (which seems to take too long), and once it does, it gets too warm and nothing to the radiator. There is no clog in the hose either. While I was changing everything, I cleaned the hose out... I'm lost. Please help! Thanks so much in advance!

Response From Double J

Has the system been pressure tested ?
Fill the system and pressure test it to make sure there is no leaks.
Not sure on this model if there is a bleeder,but make sure there isn't an air pocket in the system.
May have to fill the system/block thru the upper hose..
If no leaks,run to operating temperature and feel the upper radiator hose,should be hot to the touch when thermostat opens.
If there are no bleeders in the system,may have to take one of the heater hoses loose and run it until coolant comes out...
<<<>>coolant will be hot....AT your own risk.
Also check to make sure the cooling fan is operating...will come on when engine reaches a certain temp..usually around 225/230 degrees.

Just some thoughts.

Jim
P.S....Was Water Pump leaking?? Is radiator clear...not plugged?

Response From SoapDude


I tested and installed a new thermostat, but the coolant is never leaving the engine block. The hot coolant from the block does not circulate into the radiator. The system has not been pressure tested, but why would the hot coolant not leave the block? This is what I can't figure out. It's acting the same as it would if the thermostat was not working.. The coolant is not making it to the radiator...... It's not even making it to the lower radiator hose to fill the radiator.

The old water pump was not leaking, and it even appeared to be working fine. I changed it anyway.

Response From Double J

When the t-stat opens coolant comes out of the engine there and goes into the radiator at the top..thru the radiator and back in to the engine thru the lower hose....
If you want ,take the t-stat out and reinstall the housing and run the engine..see if it circulates thru.
I don't know if this a cross flow radiator or a vertical flow....but you should see it come across the radiator tubes ..
Maybe the radiator is plugged...after running the engine to operating temp..you can feel the radiator tube area section(between the tanks)...should be hot to the touch at the top and as you slide your hand down it it should stay the same ..if clogged up it may appear cool/cold in the bad area....just be careful doing this..watch your hands...at your own risk.
Some models ( I don't know on the Nissan) have a spring in the lower hose to keep it from collapsing ..

Let me know

JIm

Response From SoapDude


When the t-stat opens coolant comes out of the engine there and goes into the radiator at the top..thru the radiator and back in to the engine thru the lower hose....
If you want ,take the t-stat out and reinstall the housing and run the engine..see if it circulates thru.
I don't know if this a cross flow radiator or a vertical flow....but you should see it come across the radiator tubes ..
Maybe the radiator is plugged...after running the engine to operating temp..you can feel the radiator tube area section(between the tanks)...should be hot to the touch at the top and as you slide your hand down it it should stay the same ..if clogged up it may appear cool/cold in the bad area....just be careful doing this..watch your hands...at your own risk.
Some models ( I don't know on the Nissan) have a spring in the lower hose to keep it from collapsing ..

Let me know

JIm

Ok.. I've changed the thermostat, and on this car, the hose leaves the thermostat and goes to the bottom of the radiator. This hose never fills with coolant. It never gets hot. The coolant never makes it to the radiator.

Response From dave284

Maybe a stupid question, but you did install t-stat with the spring side facing the engine?.....other then that you may have a blockage either in the radiator or the engine it self cause if it takes a while to heat up than overheats..... it could have layers of corrosion inside the block and enough to block the flow. How does the inside of radiator of what that you can see look like? it was just a thought to add Jim

Response From SoapDude

Jim - I'll give it a try...



Yes the thermostat is facing the engine :) And I don't have a lot of confidence that the radiator is good and clean, but as I've stated, the coolant doesn't make it there... Now the engine block.. I don't know... The coolant I took out when I changed the water pump didn't look awfully dirty...

Now here's something interesting.. In the Chilton manual it shows the thermostat spring facing the radiator... I can't imagine that this isn't a mistake..........???

BTW thanks for the quick replies guys!

Maybe a stupid question, but you did install t-stat with the spring side facing the engine?.....other then that you may have a blockage either in the radiator or the engine it self cause if it takes a while to heat up than overheats..... it could have layers of corrosion inside the block and enough to block the flow. How does the inside of radiator of what that you can see look like? it was just a thought to add Jim


Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/d1/f0/0900823d8004d1f0/repairInfoPages.htm check this out and I have ran into manual that were wrong

Response From SoapDude

Yah, before I installed the new thermostat, I did the boil test on it. ... I know for a fact that the coolant is not leaving the engine block. I also know for a fact that the water pump is turning and the thermostat is functional...


http://www.autozone.com/.../repairInfoPages.htm check this out and I have ran into manual that were wrong

Response From Double J

Does this help???

Response From Double J

Looks like from that pix that the manual is right..
That pix is from the autozone site...

Keep us posted..

Jim

Response From SoapDude

So the spring should face away from the engine just like in the picture? That's what I have in my Chilton manual...

Response From Double J

Thats what it looks like...two different sources say the same thing...
Heck give it a try..its at least something definite to go on.


Let me know...

Jim

Response From SoapDude

Cool man, I'll be playing in the snow with this thing tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes..

Response From Double J

Snow??
Where the heck are you at?
All of our snow finally melted ...today it got up to 58 degrees here and the sun was out...FINALLY...
SO SHHHHHHHHHHHH don't say the S word ...

I've had about enough of that stuff for one season..

Response From SoapDude

Haha I'm in northern Ohio and it hit about 53 today, but colder tomorrow and all the snow hasn't melted yet... Oops I said it again..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

<<<< See what can happen?

PENALTY!!!! WE ARE NOT ALLOWED TO SAY THE WORD "SNOW" IN MARCH!!

Wow - that was quite a go around with this thing! I think what's happening is this is somehow stuck in by-pass mode with the t-stat configured the way it is, it just isn't getting the accurate engine temp to open. Anything funky going on with all the smaller hoses (by-pass) going near that thermostat? I read this too fast - sorry - but I think something is up with that type of t-stat. That bottom disc must be in place or it will just be in by--pass mode forever - is that possible?

T

Response From dave284

Well guys this has got my attention talking about the car not the snow, btw its sunny and temp is 74 here

Response From Double J

74.....<< Lucky B**T**D >>>>

Response From SoapDude

So the problem is fixed! I went down to the auto parts store and bought one of these things you hook up to your coolant line and a garden hose and flushed the system out. There must have been a clog somewhere because it's working fine now! Thanks to everyone for all of the advice! I'll definitely be back here next time I have a problem.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Like I stated,not familiar with the Nissan...

But can you run it without the t-stat and see what happens?.

1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Showing 3 out of 24 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From bball_1523 on 1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Year of vehicle: 1997
Make of vehicle: Nissan
Model of vehicle: Altima
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7) : Not sure, but it's 4-cylinder
Mileage/Kilometers: not sure, I think around 19-20 mpg
Mileage reading: somewhere over 114,000

When I went to get an oil change at Valvoline sometime last week, one mechanic told me that I need to get a radiator hose replaced because they said the radiator was leaking from there. I declined to get it fixed, and took my car to an official Nissan dealer and they diagnosed a slew of problems.

Here is what Nissan says I need to get fixed, and it all adds up to around $2708.90:

1) Intake gaskets leaking
2) radiator leaking: upper radiator, and hose
3) 3 motor mounts broken
4) brake flush
5) power steering fluid flush
6) fuel induction service
7) fuel injector service

I recorded a video of the leak here:

I am wondering if anyone knows what the problem could be? Is Nissan right about getting these 7 things fixed? How long can I keep driving the car for until things start to worsen?

One of my plans is to drive less and raise money for the next 6 months, and then get it all fixed, but I'm worried about the car deteriorating even further and causing more damage.

What do you think I should do?

Response From DanD

I’d say that your list is set in the proper order of priority; but without knowing how bad the intake gasket is leaking, maybe have the cooling system leaks fixed first.
The first three being left unattended too will or could cause more damage.
A leaking intake will cause an engine to run lean (to much air compared to fuel ratio); a lean engine runs hot.
A leaking cooling system is more of a problem then just the coolant leaking out. Cooling systems are designed to work under pressure; for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant rises by 3 degrees. With a cooling system allowed to run in atmospheric pressure, the coolant may begin to boil as it passes through the cylinder heads. Your temperature gauge may show a normal temp but internal engine temperatures are soaring; the coolant comes off of boil after it leaves the cylinder head and passes the temperature sensor.
Broken engine mounts put strain on the drivetrain; axle shafts are forced to run out of their normal plain (angles) causing excessive wear. Also an engine that is allowed to move around under the hood could be the cause of the radiator leaking; the engine maybe pulling on the hoses?
The last 4 items are maintenance issues; yes important but if you have to put something off, it would be them.

Dan.

Response From dave284

$2700.00!!!!! Good God, I would get another estimate....sorry for being so blunt but I can't see paying for a repair job that cost as much as a reman engine.

Response From bball_1523

If I were to put off any repairs for 6 months until I tried to raise money for the repairs, do you think my car would survive without any extra major damage or breakdowns?

I am thinking about getting another estimate at a local repair shop.

The first three items would cost me $2255, as they are $900, $575, and $780, in order.

Response From dave284

If your'er low on funds now....I would certainly take care of that radiator leak first, cause if that motor ever over heats bad enough....its done for.

Response From bball_1523

I took my car in to a different shop and they told me to replace the radiator hoses, and that they will check for other problems as well. What do you guys think?

I had my service engine light come on for a while before last week Monday. Last week Monday I took the car in to a Nissan dealer and the turned off the service engine light and it hasn't come on since then. Does this say anything about any problems my car is having?

Response From bball_1523

So I got the radiator hoses replaced at a local shop by someone that I kind of know and was told that the radiator is not leaking.

Other things recommended in order of importance:

1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month
3) brake fluid flush
4) Outer CV boots cracking
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range)
6) windshield washer reservoir cap
7) clean leaves from cowl

Does anyone have any advice for any of these items? I'm glad to know that the radiator isn't leaking, so I'm wondering why Nissan told me so. Maybe one of them didn't look carefully?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Comments after ***s


1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread **** if legal can wait
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month ****may save and expensive problem to do now.
3) brake fluid flush ****cheap if bleeders cooperate.
4) Outer CV boots cracking ****entire shafts are cheap enough when they fail vs just removing for the boots.
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range) ****how do you have less miles now??
6) windshield washer reservoir cap ****free at junkyards or use aluminum foil....Not big bucks anyway new.
7) clean leaves from cowl **** why is that so difficult - just do it!
_________________

T

Response From bball_1523

What do you mean by the tires being legal? I tried the penny method and it's worn down according to the penny.

For #5, I don't know the exact miles driven so I gave an estimate. In my first post, it shows what the miles were at one point. My car has obviously driven more up to this day.

for #3, what do you mean by "cheap if bleeders cooperate"?

For the CV boots, are you saying that I shouldn't fix them and let them wear out, and my car will be fine?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tires legal: There are small triangle arrows indicating the treadwear minimum on the sidewall pointing to raised spots in the tires grooves. If any of those are flush with the tread the tire is no longer legal for street use.

Bleeders: Some will be stuck and may not bleed or remove to clean or replace without breaking off. If that happens it opens up a series of replacing stuff back to where things are not rusted wjere new line can be flared into good line - a nightmare sometimes!

CV boots: I won't do them. They make kits that go around and seal up that are marginal at best. Whole rebuilt driveshafts are available with new boots and checked out or new CV joints for as low as $59 bucks for some cars! Check locally for your car. Why bother if they are that cheap is why I said that. If your are expensive and the joints still good get a price on that part of the job alone,

T

Response From bball_1523

I am still not understanding what you are saying about tires. I measured my tires with a penny and I think it's 2/32" of tread left. (if tread is even the right word). Sorry I'm a rookie at maintaining my car, and I've been driving for over 7 years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


There are hidden bumps like shown above that shouldn't be flush with the actual tread left. I'd use the Lincoln's head test on those personally but they are legal till those are flush. There's an arrow on the sidewall at the several points around the tire where the raised parts between treads are. Many tires will look fine on the inside or outside but you go by the worst wear found to rate the legality of the tire.

IMO - tires are your #1 line of defence in safety! No matter what contraptions you design into a car for stopping, traction and handling the tire is the only thing actually touching the road! Being legal is one thing but the truth is tire's traction ability is severely compremised after let's say "half worn" area. That tread is primal for wet roads and your best chance with mud, snow and ice conditions which all vary of course.

Prices vary widely for tires. If costs must be kept low consider inspected, matching used tires if needed.

Exact size and ratings suggested by manufacturer is also paramount. It's engineered into the handling of the vehicle,

T

Response From bball_1523

I've been told that my Outer CV Boots are leaking grease. Should I get them fixed?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, no and maybe?? Why are they leaking grease? If the boots have split shafts need to be removed to install new ones. It can be close to the cost of whole rebuilt replacement 1/2 shafts just to do that.

If a clamp is loose or missing for some reason - yes fix that.

Once water and dirt get into the CV joint it's game over IMO. They might go a long time and still behave before the first symptom shows up. You decide based on how they feel or professional advice on their safety. They usually give fair warning noises when it's time to replace. Not always though - watched a neighbor pull into their driveway and one let go right then and all the balls of the joint rolled down the driveway - funny but not and that one didn't warn them!

What you do about yours right now is a judgment call for you and or with a tech's advice and close inspection,

T

Response From bball_1523

I'll have a mechanic check and advise me again.

Response From Guest

Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

Response From bball_1523


Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

haha, sorry that guest is me, I didn't realize that I wasn't logged in.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the reservoir and or hose to it leaking?

T

Response From bball_1523

I don't know if the hose is leaking, but I think just the right of the reservoir, underneath the car it is leaking. I can see a small amount of green coolant about to drip hanging on to something under my car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

When cool - chase it with a paper towel or your finger. More often than not the source of a leak will be the highest and most forward of where evidence is found. Those tanks can crack and hose could be faulty - this is a look and find job now. Some hidden leaks you can use a dental type mirror to look up at the bottom of items,

T

Response From bball_1523

I took the car back to a shop I have recently been going to and they found that the top of the radiator, where the radiator cap is, is cracked and leaking. I literally could see coolant leaking out from their.

Anyways they are going to fix it this week and I think it may cost at most around $400.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

he good new is now you know the source! Materials used or where it leak might be able to be properly fixed. Not your average "just goo it up" but a proper fix may be available depending on just what, how and where. A real radiator shop would likely be privy to the latest for the chance of that if the radiator is ok as a whole and might be a practical choice,

T

Response From Fant

I tell you what - if you really love your cars you have to spend some time with it Evrything has to be done by your own hands (IMHO), there will be less problems with it!!!

Response From jayeffel Top Rated Answer

I would change the radiator hose that is leaking; do it yourself. I've never heard of brake or power steering flush -unless there were severe problems that indicate the need. I understand fuel injectors don't need much attention , okay to put fuel injector cleaner in gas tank. Motor mounts broken, you can check them, motor may notably shake when running.

BTW: mileage requested is odometer mileage, gives an indication of wear and tear. Gas mileage can help also. Good luck.