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Elaplast
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Elaplast

P311-52B8D95    New

Qty:
$33.53
Elaplast Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Lower
Brand: Elaplast
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2002 - Mini Cooper
Rein
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Rein

P311-451BC4C    New

Qty:
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Rein Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Rein
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2008 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-1FEE3D6    New

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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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2008 - Mini Cooper
Rein
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Rein

P311-451BC4C    New

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Rein Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Connector to Radiator
Brand: Rein
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-1FEE3D6    New

Qty:
$41.34
Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Connector to Radiator
Brand: Genuine
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Vaico
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Vaico

P311-41C614D    New

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$51.68
Vaico Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Connector To Thermostat
Brand: Vaico
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-4E80F9D    New

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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Thermostat Housing to Connector, Incl.Connector
Brand: Genuine
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-36DAD40    New

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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
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Brand: Genuine
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2008 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-36DAD40    New

Qty:
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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Thermostat Housing to Connector, Incl.Connector
Brand: Genuine
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-301C581    New

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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
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Brand: Genuine
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2008 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-301C581    New

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$135.25
Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Radiator to Connector, Incl.Connector
Brand: Genuine
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Vaico
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Vaico

P311-42C2D94    New

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$35.17
Vaico Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Vaico
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2008 - Mini Cooper
Vaico
2013 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Vaico

P311-42C2D94    New

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Vaico Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Connector to Radiator
Brand: Vaico
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2013 - Mini Cooper
Genuine
2008 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Genuine

P311-1B80D93    New

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Genuine Radiator Coolant Hose
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Brand: Genuine
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2008 - Mini Cooper
APA/URO Parts
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose APA/URO Parts

P311-4F8E6E1    New

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$15.83
APA/URO Parts Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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2002 - Mini Cooper
APA/URO Parts
2005 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose APA/URO Parts

P311-4F8E6E1    New

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$15.83
APA/URO Parts Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Production: -04/30/2005
  • Lower
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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2005 - Mini Cooper
Elaplast
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Elaplast

P311-129708A    New

Qty:
$14.05
Elaplast Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • to Breather Tube
  • Upper
Brand: Elaplast
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2002 - Mini Cooper
APA/URO Parts
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose APA/URO Parts

P311-325F81E    New

Qty:
$17.62
APA/URO Parts Radiator Coolant Hose
  • to Water Pump
  • Upper
Brand: APA/URO Parts
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2002 - Mini Cooper
Elaplast
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Elaplast

P311-1C98B60    New

Qty:
$32.08
Elaplast Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • to Water Pump
  • NLA 2.16
  • Upper
Brand: Elaplast
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2002 - Mini Cooper
Rein
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Coolant Hose Rein

P311-0F39ADA    New

Qty:
$21.89
Rein Radiator Coolant Hose
  • to Water Pump
  • Upper
Brand: Rein
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2002 - Mini Cooper

Latest Mini Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

89 Acura Integra radiator hose question

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From dlmcmurr on 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question

Can anyone tell me which radiator hose goes to the thermostat on this model? I've had the head off and replaced all the hoses at that time. The new hoses look like they fit better in the reversed position relative to the old hoses, but the engine got hot on the first run. That was with the top hose to the thermostat. I did bleed the thermostat housing during refilling. I thought upper hoses always went to the thermostat and someone before me had reversed them?

Thanks,
Dave

Response From Tom Greenleaf

. 1: Thermostat replacement-Integra
***************
Make sure spring end of thermostat is towards engine. There's a lot going on right there and may take a cycle or two to settle down and purge all air out. All the hoses must be right where they belong. This looks like other hoses are part of telling this t-stat when to open and if not all correct there will be problems. When at all possible - match up old hoses to new ones and many need to be cut at one or both ends to match. Everything I could find suggests the upper hose does go from thermostat to radiator directly, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.autozone.com/...eId=0900c15280049680

True: Most thermostats won't go in backwards but some have an "up" side to assist air purging.

Try that site for the diagram.

Heater really should be run when first testing out a cooling system after it's been drained for any reason. Most will blow strong heat when full enough and if not there's still more to go (purging) ..

In a career I haven't seen many new thermostats be totally wrong and the problem. In troublesome cases I will test them in water watching the action work on a stove.

Air is lousy at transfering heat so t-stats can be slow to react to hot air but will in time - usually late. As said some are designed with notches or tiny check valves to allow air past them (must be installed with that "UP")for better self purging but even that is slow.

Keep at it. Air still in system is most likely the trouble so far,

T

Response From dlmcmurr

Tom,

Your link didn't work, but it pointed me in the right direction. In the radiator section at the same site, figure 1 shows the hose routing with the lower going to the stat and the upper going to the head. I'll reverse my hoses this evening and try to bleed the system better and see where it goes from here. Hope I haven't cut the one too short!

Thanks,
Dave

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: That's "AutoZone's" parts site. Some, not all when you look for a part will show how it's replaced, located or more about it. Look below when you get a picture of a thermostat for example the look for "repair guides" below that and if there's any further stuff it's hidden there - just a trick to be able to look at stuff.

If you can take pics that's even better so I/we can see just what you are dealing with.

Bleeding: If a plug up high on or near thermostat is there it's for letting air out. If not sometimes you can just remove the highest hose and fill from there and re-attach. Run engine till heater works and upper hose past thermostat is warm to hot and shut if off for a good while. It should be pushing air out to recovery reservoir and when it contracts as it cools can only draw back liquid. Can take many cycles of that to be stabil.

If heater worked before it will work now and when no heat is noted it's frequently because the actual liquid in the cooling system's engine side is still too low unseen at a glance. Understand that the thermostat when closed is not letting air thru it so it must be warm enough to open but don't let it overheat. As said - some t-stat's come with a slot or mini hole to let the air past it when cold but that's still painfully slow and with even minor junk going thru system won't work as it would plug.

Getting air out is not as quick and simple as it looks sometimes. Keep at it and look for the signs of temp stability as the idicator that it's mostly done and would finish the last tidbits of air over use so re-check your coolant level daily for a few days of use is suggested by me anyway.

Good luck - keep trying,

T

Response From dlmcmurr

Tom,

It always bugs me wondering how some suggestions worked out, so I thought I'd tell you how this project ended up now that it's running again and I've semi-caught up some of the other things that got behind.

This started out as project to replace a damaged exhaust valve. The last car head I had removed was in a Vega over 30 years ago, so the DOHC experience was not where I really wanted to start. It all went relatively well. As I said, I had used (obviously faulty) logic to decide the radiator hoses had originally been reversed. I put them back correctly, but things still weren't normal. Got frustrated and went to bed. On a whim, turned on the key the next morning and waited on the gauges to stabilize. Lo and behold, the temp gauge was showing normal after resting all night! Must have damaged it when I was banging the head around. Went out and bought another sending unit and that solved that problem. Once I put the proper Permatex on the head to radiator hose adapter (looks kinda like a smaller thermostat housing) and resisted the urge to tighten it all the way down, that solved another problem. Other little incidentals like the intake cam being one tooth off, a nicked O-ring on an injector (those are hard to find replacements for), etc. kept the job interesting. I enjoy reading and using web resouces to learn how things work, plus I really couldn't afford to replace my 280k+ mileage car right now. I had hoped that new valve stem seals, camshaft seals, and a valve cover gasket would make a significant difference in my oil consumption since they were all leaking, but that has not proven to be the case. Guess that means instead of $350, I should have spent 4 to 5 times that to rebuild the engine, but I was worried that even my $350 would be wasted as I would overlook (or cause) some other major problem. At least this gets it to where I can sell it in good conscience later if I want to. Plus I can buy a lot of oil for $1000.

I appreciate people like you that enjoy helping those of us that have the reasoning power and desire, but lack the practical experience to solve our problems. I try to do the same in other areas where I have knowledge.

Thanks again,
Dave

Response From dlmcmurr

Thanks, Tom. Fortunately, the thermostat only fits in one way, with the spring into the pipe running across the back of the block to the water pump. One thing I forgot to do was open the heater valve to purge that system, too. I'll run it through one more cycle this evening. Guess there's always a chance the new thermostat is bad, but probably I just didn't get enough air out. Is that drawing available somewhere that I can read the labels?

Dave

External Heater

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From NAT WHEATLEY on External Heater

I have a 2001 F-150 and the heater is dead. I don't want to put money into replacing the heater. Is there some type of external unit that I can use that plugs into the lighter, hooks up the battery or other? I looked quickly online and saw several, but all had poor reviews in terms of the units not producing much heat.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

I n my experiance I would agree with the reviews you saw. I have tried these types of heaters in the past on a old cluncker and had poor results. It will give you a bit of heat but not the whole cab. Tom may have some good advice here. He is the local A/C and heat expert

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off -what's wrong with the existing heat?

Any electric 12v heater is VERY limited in possible BTU power - like 1250 max I think - which is diddle or perhaps just 2% of what you really need. I used a handheld one once just to help defrost windows in yard vehicle and it was almost useless.

The trouble is vehicle's exchange so much air all the time you are fighting a lost cause almost. Think of how fast heat is lost when you just shut down a working system - just seconds and cab goes cold again.

Depending on just what is wrong there are a few shortcuts to get some heat with existing system for small bucks.

Let me/us know what wrong with it now and we can suggest from there. Save your $$ on electric ones. Seriously - they can't make any more heat than using a cigarette lighter and you know that won't heat the thing,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom; My '40 Ford Coupe had an electric heater mounted under the glove box. It was painted the same color as the dash. Still unsure if it was 'OE', but sure looked like it. Of course, it was a 6V system. So many years ago that I don't remember if it had defroster tubing. When I changed to Chev running gear and 12V, I removed it as it took up too much space (It was huge). But, as I remember, it worked quite well, at least for Oregon temps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey - Loren - we're giving away our "old fartness" here! No problem that 6 or 12 volts COULD do it. The upgrade of alternator and battery alone would outcost just fixing this almost no matter what's wrong with it.

The ones sold now that I've noticed are either volutarily or mandatorily limited to what could be expected power from normal power ports/cig lighters. Kind of like the household electric heaters are limited to just ~5,000 BTU as that's about what a 15 amp circuit could handle without burning up wires and they still do at that.

I had thought of all kinds of tricks like the rear heater box and fan that sits under a seat in busses and large perhaps now older passenger vans - and just wire up the fan to a switch. It all adds up to too much effort and it would be missing "defrost" which here and many places is no luxury - it's needed desperately or you don't drive!

Funny - Just came in from freezin' my keister off putting tire slime in my '48 Tractor as it has a slow leak and is 80% calcium chloride water filled in tire with 250# weights to boot so that wheel ain't coming off too easy for me anyway! Dry weight on that sucker is close to 3 tons without the water and weights! 6V pos ground system would blow most folks minds too! Cool as it's OE electric start but still has the crank hole to do by hand!


Still waiting to hear what's wrong with this truck. If it needs a heater core and all that work is too much for someone than most can be sealed and just zero pressure the cooling system if it's a yard junker it would work. If core is the problem I wouldn't waste time on a used one to save a buck but any other stuff wrong with dash should be in salvage yards and fairly cheap........

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I had thought about putting a heater in our boat, at one time. Actually would've been quite easy. It was an I/O, and I was going to run heater hoses from the engine (5.0 Chev) to under the jump seats that were on each side of the engine cover, then just add a couple of fans. But, we didn't do much winter skiing. LOL.
Old fart-ness? LMAO! Yeah, those were the days. Had that '40 for 23 years.

Response From Guest

I'm concerned that the system flushing sounds like what he has done each time already. I also can't keep rolling the dice thinking that this time it will fix it for good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This isn't "rolling the dice" ----- when flushing worked, then junk coming out should have been noted - it not then you would question something else alltogether like some funky blend door problem but that doesn't explain to me anyway why it worked from flushing if even for the day or so??

There's more junk in there than is being flushed out is my call from the history so far. I'd bet it's loaded with the sawdust style sealer unless you can be sure it's never been used that's about how that stuff will behave when more than a spoonful is used.

The flush will probably take a solvent to flush not just garden hose and water which would normally suffice. There may be evidence of goo in the recovery tank or under radiator cap - take a look,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for the replies. I'm not entirely clear what's wrong with the heater(I know nothing about anything under the hood...)I've brought in several times to try to have the issue fixed. Each time the mechanic has said that the heater was clogged, that he unclogged it, changed the antifreeze, etc and its working fine.

It does seem to work fine each time...for about a day. The last time we agreed that this routine wasn't working, and that the heater needed to be replaced. I made an appt, left the truck for the day. When I came back, he hadn't replaced it, but did the same 'unclogging' routine, though he said he did it much more throughly this time (and I'm sure he did, I do actually trust him). The heater worked...for about a day. Its an old truck, and after sinking money into having it serviced each time, I can't drop more money on it at this point to replace the heater. But I am cold...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There could be a couple things causing this.

I'll bet first that the system is so full of sealer that it clogs and needs a whole system flush out but beware because if it had a leak somewhere that sealer did seal up it probably will return.

The other thing is to make sure that coolant is staying full. I'm pretty sure the Ford Trucks still use a pressure radiator cap on the radiator and not just a cap on a remote tank which is a "recovery" tank. It needs to be known full at the radiator.

** There are assorted reason it may drop from full there and might show OK at the see thru recovery tank. The condition of the radiator cap itself allows for coolant when it expands to be put to that recovery tank and when it cools (contracts) draws just coolant back to the radiator and hence the whole engine's cooling system including the heater which is part of it.

If that cap is faulty it tosses out the expanded coolant and just draws back air. If it does that a few times the system is actually low and many will quit with the heater first - then later you may have troubles overheating - maybe not.

If there's a gasket (head) problem it could be blowing combustion gasses into cooling system and that won't allow for heater to work same as low coolant level but that would usually blow coolant over the top of that recovery tank and you'd have other complaints.

The heater core is just a mini radiator but it would be the "catch all" for debris in the system and clog early if the case. If there's sealer or plain junk thru the system it just keeps stopping at the heater core. Gotta get all of it out and it should stay working. If just the core is being flushed and that works it indicates there's more junk still in the system to remove.

I'm not judging your mechanic but this should be fairly routine. You said it does work so core isn't clogged with "calcified" junk that won't flush out but rather regular junk that does. Get it all out and it will work is my suggestion.

Again - I'm not there to pass judgement but replacing the heater core right now and leaving junk in system will just clog again.

AgainII: Flush out whole system. Removal of thermostat and radiator hoses - even block plugs (they are like bolts "drain plug like" down low in water jackets) on lower sides of the engine and really flush this thing out and it will last,

T

Response From way2old

Has anyone looked at the blend doors? Or the flow of coolant? Just wondering.

No heat unless I raise the RPMs

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From golfboy7 on No heat unless I raise the RPMs

HI all,

I own a 2000 Jag Stype 3.0 liter and have a heating issue.

I noticed this happening a couple weeks ago and it is very consistent now. I'll use an example to illustrate what is occurring:

I'm driving down the highway, doing 65, RPMs are around 2200 or so, and I get off the highway and come to a stop at the light at the end of the off ramp. After idling at about 800rpms, the hot air which was blowing hot on the highway, starts to gradually get back to the outside tempurature. Then when I start driving again, and the RPMS go up, it starts blowing hotter again.

If i'm coasting and the rpms are at about 1500, it will not blow hot...the 'limit' here is at about 2k (or so) RPMs.

Please note, the RPMs do not affect how much air blows, only the temperature.

Any thoughts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This sort of points to air in the coolant either because it is low or overheating possibly from fan(s) not working at lower speed when needed most and bubbles from boiling won't transfer heat well at all odd as that sounds.

I think this uses the recovery tank and pressure cap on it with just a small hose to radiator - right? This makes it hard to know that the radiator is really full of just coolant. If that design you can squeeze a radiator hose and detect just coolant swishing to the recovery tank and back with the cap off of the tank.

You really need to verify the coolant level and that fans are working when they should if only to rule that out. Temp gauge should stay steady once warmed up and not fluctuate much at all - ever. Could be some other problem with controls but do rule out this coolant problem. If that's the issue, run - don't walk to take care of the source problem before it can cause further problems or damage,

T

Response From golfboy7

Thanks for the reply Tom.

I'm very uneducated about heating and cooling systems...how can I verify that the fans are working at lower RPMS? I guess I just don't know what I'm looking for when I open up the hood.

Thanks for the help again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Sorry if I confused you which I can do sometimes. This is important so get help. Have a real mechanic verify the coolant level and observe this. That may not be the problem but you need to know,

T

Response From golfboy7

This is getting a little off topic here but I like to speak my mind...

Don't they check the other fluid levels when they change your oil? I could have sworn that was pretty much included in any kind of oil change nowadays.

For some reason, I have this underlying 'feeling' whenever I take my car to a place to get it fixed, that they cut as many corners as possible in order to cut costs while still charging me for the services they 'say' they performed. And I think the reason I have this feeling is because I know most people don't know squat about their cars (me included). The car repair shops know this, and know they can take advantage of this with very little reprocussions (spelling?).

Anyway, I will have this checked this weekend but I doubt I will be allowed to watch them do it.

Thanks again for the info.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

THAT'S A PERFECTLY GOOD TOPIC! I do all my own oil changing service. The craze today is for speedy service and they claim they check all this stuff and can get a lot done but something's missing with most of these places.......

Even dealers will bait you with reasonable prices sometimes. In general, places are advertizing the whole service for about half of what it costs me to do it labor free! They buy drums of product and I can't compete with that. Most cars you can check fluid levels by just looking at the translucent reservoir. If this has the pressure on the recovery tank it may show full but doesn't say if the radiator is and these quick places can't afford trained techs for this service. What's worse is if it needs fluid added to something that is a warning that something is wrong!!!!! and you don't get warned!!!! If I find brake fluid, trans fluid, coolant, gear oil, PS fluid or tire pressure way too low on one tire I would tell you that, that isn't right and the places just can't do that.

This is not to blame anyone because the customers rule with this and want fast service for routine things. When things are within norms this works well. It's when something is wrong that you don't always get the warning. You are going to have to have some things checked exactly at your request and this is one of those times,

T

Ps: Bet you don't know how much pressure is in your spare tire right now - do you? I do on my own and customers!

Response From golfboy7

Ok, a friend and I just went out and looked at the fluid level.

The coolant level container, where you would pour more coolant in if you needed too actually sits higher than the radiator, and there is a level indicator on the outside of the foggy plastic which says (MIN ----- MAX) and these lines are about a half an inch apart. (Which, judging by the size of the container would only amount to a few ounces between the min and the max levels).

The tube coming out from this container that goes to the radiator is a hard tube and squeezing it is impossible. My friend did squeeze the rubber tube that comes out of the other side of the radiator and we could hear some noise, sounded like fluid, coming from a few feet back. (sounded like it was coming from underneath, and between the engine and the cabin).

I have to drive my car to my friends house after work today, it's about a 10 minute drive at about 35 MPH avg. My friend told me when I get there to leave the hood down and the car running, put it in park and listen for the fan to start up to see if everything is working ok.

Neither of us really understands how this would affect the level of heat blowing from the engine. Can you explain how this works? Keep in mind it blows hot at about 2500+ rpms, warm at around 2200 and cool to cold at anything under 2000.

I wish I understood more. <----on that note, are there any good websites, maybe one that has diagrams, where I can kinda study my Jag and learn about how the different components in cars work?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: That container as you put it is an overflow reservoir and probably has a screw cap - not just a pop up cap like most washer fluid containers would have. The small tube from that to radiator would not be the place to squeeze and you would at a radiator hose which I think your friend did. That should push just coolant back and forth to the reservior. Any air should bubble out and only coolant can return so it's self purging and if the whole system was in proper shape would get out the last bit of air after a while if it was drained like for other work or changing the anti-freeze.

From cold the larger hoses - should be one that goes high on radiator and one lower is return back to engine should demostrate that there is no pressure in them when just sitting cold and when engine warms, coolant expands some and would be maintained at about 15lbs in the system which raises the boiling point of the coolant the same way a pressure cooker does for cooking if you are familiar with those.

If it can't build up pressure then there is a problem. That could be as simple as the cap itself or a leak somewhere. Without building up pressure enough the coolant might not purge to the reservoir or be able to draw back just liquid when it cools and contracts. That's how that deal works.

Physics 101: Water boils at 212F. With 15 psi of pressure the same water won't boil till 257F. Most engines operate at close to the unpressurized boiling point so being able to stay liquid is critical. Anti-freeze mixture does add just a couple degrees to the boiling point but it's insignificant by itself.

There will be some hot spots inside your engine and a costant flow of liquid is needed to cool the engine to a uniform temp. It a spot even boils you have added air as bubbles that are moving around and don't exchange heat well. Even 150F water will burn your hand but you can wave your hand in an oven that was just at 350F and if quick it wouldn't burn you - get the idea. Your heater core is just a mini radiator like the one for the engine and if just bubbles or plain air passes thru it it won't feel warm at all. If the electric fan(s) are not coming on the coolant could be boiling but less apt to when driving at some speed like about 40mph most vehicles barely need the fan. The speed of the car is then the speed of the air going over the radiator. Two things happen when driving along at some speed - 1. The load on the engine increases making heat faster but the air speed (#2) can cover that and all is well and your heater works. When you slow down, the water pump is pumping slower and for a while the engine needs cooling more than it did moving along. Fan takes care of that.

That's with everything normal. If the slow down causes boiling or even a mix of liquid and air the heater would suffer. Worse is that is an engine killer as there could be spots much hotter than even your temp gauge reads which is why you hear about engines "blowing a gasket" type thing.

You heard so remote sounds when sqeezing that larger hose and usually you will not hear just liquid but would hear air if it was in there. That would explain what is happening in this case in just that scenario. It could be some other thing completely but I just wanted this part ruled out first.

These are common priciples and not just your car. Your owner's manual should discuss quite a bit about fluids and levels but is not intended to be a repair manual. It will tell you where the common check points are for this vehicle and what type of product should be used as needed.

Many plain cheap repair manuals for your car will cover basics of operation. If you want to learn more about the principles of the many functions you should buy an auto mechanic's textbook. They probably are available on the web and lots will be free. Specific repair instructions are available here and there on the web. If you want a complete book on your car try AllDataDIY.com and you would download the whole shooting match for your car. Some techs here have the pro editions and do share exact diagrams and info on specific parts, locations etc. It's expensive and I don't happen to have that.

The principles should be understood before you need specific instructions for just one model. There used to be a good book called "auto mechanics for idiots" or something like that that was pretty good.

For now I was just looking to rule out air/bubbles in the system and then it would go on from there as to what to do next,

T

Response From golfboy7

Tom,

This information is incredible.

I'm 27 years old and this is the first car I have 'purchased' as my own. I plan on learning the principals as you suggest because I want this car to be a restoration project car down the road. IE I do not plan on selling it when I get a new car, but rather I plan to work on it to keep it in good condition.

Anyway. Thank you so much for all your help, it seems as though this is a little over my head at the moment so I will have this looked at over the weekend and will post an update sometime soon.

JR

PS I have bookmarked these forums as they are some of the BEST, most active forums and users I have ever found.

Response From golfboy7

***after weekend UPDATE***

I was unable to get my car in to the shop to have this problem looked at. However I do hav a little more information that may help (or may not...I'm not sure).

I had to run 1 errand on Saturday afternoon, it was about 8 miles away by highway and I did about 65-70 on the highway. The air was blowing hot while I was moving at these speeds, however when I got off the highway I got stuck at a railroad crossing for a number of minutes where the RPMs dropped and the air tempurature quickly followed.

So I did a test. I put it in neutral, and rev'd the engine (it's regulated in Neutral to about 3000 RPMs) and kept it at the rev limit while I was stuck here. As I did this I tested the air temp and it got hot again.

Does this new information change anything?

Response From mcmurer

i had a similar problem on my mercury sable. the problem progressively got worse. when i finally removed the waterpump i found the impeller fins were completely worn down. at first, 1500rpms was enough to keep the coolant moving. it gradually increase to over 3000 rpms. new waterpump fixed the problem.

Response From golfboy7

***UPDATE***

Problem fixed!!

Local repair shop looked at system and found the resevoir had cracks in it! Very tiny cracks in plastic made for low system pressure. Replacing the resevoir fixed the problem. Now I have another issue.

It's on the front page.

Take a look.

Thanks.

Response From way2old

You may have a water pump that is not flowing enough coolant at lower rpm's. If the impellers on the water pump are worn down, it will do what you are describing. Not saying that is what it is, just suggesting another part to check.

Post what systems you are interested in and I will see what I can do for ya. Just do one at a time so my old brain does not get too overwhelmed.