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Best Selling Genuine Ford Radiator Hoses

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Gates
1999 Ford E-150 Econoline Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-269625A    New

Qty:
$20.95
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1999 - Ford E-150 Econoline
Motorcraft
2005 Ford E-150 Radiator Coolant Hose Motorcraft

P311-505E83A    New

Qty:
$129.45
Motorcraft Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Towing Package
Brand: Motorcraft
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Vehicle
2005 - Ford E-150
Motorcraft
2005 Ford E-150 Radiator Coolant Hose Motorcraft

P311-505E83A    New

Qty:
$129.45
Motorcraft Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2005 - Ford E-150
Motorcraft
Qty:
$129.45
Motorcraft Radiator Coolant Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Towing Package
Brand: Motorcraft
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Vehicle
2005 - Ford E-150 Club Wagon
Gates
2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-47E8AA0    New

Qty:
$89.27
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2008 - Ford F-250 Super Duty
Gates
2010 Ford F-450 Super Duty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-47E8AA0    New

Qty:
$89.27
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Pipe To Water Pump
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2010 - Ford F-450 Super Duty
Gates
2010 Ford F-450 Super Duty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-47E8AA0    New

Qty:
$89.27
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Radiator To Pipe
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2010 - Ford F-450 Super Duty
Gates
2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-09F149F    New

Qty:
$103.73
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Pipe To Water Pump
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2008 - Ford F-250 Super Duty
Gates
2008 Ford F-550 Super Duty Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-09F149F    New

Qty:
$103.73
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Outlet from Water Pump
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
2008 - Ford F-550 Super Duty
Gates
1986 Ford Taurus Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-02F4E62    New

Qty:
$14.66
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1986 - Ford Taurus
Gates
1986 Ford Aerostar Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-44E89CC    New

Qty:
$15.63
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Flexible
  • Flexible
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1986 - Ford Aerostar
Gates
1986 Ford Taurus Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-358CD13    New

Qty:
$16.41
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1986 - Ford Taurus
Gates
1994 Ford Aspire Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-0138FD1    New

Qty:
$17.25
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1994 - Ford Aspire
Gates
1989 Ford Bronco Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4411264    New

Qty:
$25.79
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1989 - Ford Bronco
Gates
1995 Ford Bronco Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-4411264    New

Qty:
$25.79
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • w/o Oil Cooler
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1995 - Ford Bronco
Gates
1995 Ford Ranger Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-477BE14    New

Qty:
$20.82
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1995 - Ford Ranger
Gates
1996 Ford Taurus Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-043A2D4    New

Qty:
$48.58
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • DOHC Engine only Tee to Engine
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1996 - Ford Taurus
Gates
1996 Ford Mustang Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3EAD544    New

Qty:
$18.70
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1996 - Ford Mustang
Gates
1997 Ford Explorer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3F99326    New

Qty:
$17.23
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Molded Coolant Hose;
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
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Vehicle
1997 - Ford Explorer
Gates
2001 Ford Explorer Radiator Coolant Hose Gates

P311-3F99326    New

Qty:
$17.23
Gates Radiator Coolant Hose
  • Thermostat Housing to Pipe
  • Lower
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2001 - Ford Explorer

Latest Ford Repair and Radiator Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Hose on Radiator

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From aarongates25 on Hose on Radiator

I have a 99 Ford Contour with a four cyl. The top radiator hose keeps coming off when there is alot of pressure on it.What could possibly be wrong with it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pressure is regulated by the pressure cap. This is on the recovery tank in this car I think or if not on the radiator itself. The average system won't exceed 15lbs or will blow off the pressure or normally just send coolant to the recovery tank and draw it back later as it cools down and looses pressure.

This hose somehow is just not attached or tighned properly. It's rare that a system can exceed the pre-set pressure but never allow that as the weak link could be a nasty problem like the heater core or radiator! Cooling systems all will blow steam or coolant out to the ground if overwhelmed with pressure like when boiling over in an overheat situation. That vent must be open and could be just a plastic spout or tube.

Get a good new clamp for that hose if in question. Carefully fill up the system and purge out all air and check that it is operating properly.

For now it's just a hose clamp/fastening problem but verify that it can't exceed the pressure for the car,

T

Response From aarongates25 Top Rated Answer

Thanks Tom for theinfo!If that doesn't work I will let you know.

2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Basf76 on 2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

2003 Mazda Tribute, V6, 110,000 miles. ( Mazda Tribute is the same as Ford Escape And Mercury Mariner)

Overheating Happened on 23 Dec 2012
Checked:
Coolant - reservoir full but cold
Oil - levels are good
Cooling Hoses - no leaks but still cold as if coolant is not flowing through the engine
* Blows cool air through interior vents when turning on the heater during overheating
* Can drive it for 10 minutes before it starts to overheat

Please help...thank you in advance

Response From Basf76

Just back from the shop, they are 100% sure that the waterpump went out and needs replacement because no coolant was flowing and the vents was blowing cool air when turning on th heater.

Went to Rockauto.com and bought new waterpump, waterpump belt and thermostat for safe measure. Labor is going to cost me $220 install everything...sounds about right? Thanks again...

Response From Ajharris Top Rated Answer

My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Hammer Time

Please don't hijack other people;s questions.'


Read the FORUM RULES before posting.

Response From Sidom

Well, overheating that fast after start does suggest a flow a problem...

I would remove or hollow out the T stat and see if that makes a difference.....No matter what you find you are going to what to change out the stat since you've overheated the system...If it still overheats then you are going to want to look at the pump..

If you can locate the inlet heater hose, you can remove that a run the engine to see if you are getting flow...If you have a bad impellar then there will be little to no flow....If the pump is good then make sure you have a good extention hose on the heater hose and a good way to contain the coolant or you will have a big mess to deal with.....

Response From Hammer Time

Nobody has pressure tested this system yet. It is full of air and that coolant went somewhere. Even a totally closed thermostat is not going to make the heater cold.

Response From Sidom

I may have misread this but it looks like the OP had the overheating problem, then checked the system and it was full....

Response From Hammer Time

I was thinking that this system had a separate radiator cap but I see it has a pressurized bottle. I've seen a few of these DOHC engines with the impellers rotted off the water pump.

Response From Basf76

Thanks everyone for the help, I will be taking this to the shop today and I will update you on what they say. Do you guys recommend system diagnostics to be performed? Last thing @ Sidom, you are correct that the coolant is not going anywhere as levels never changes, the reservoir and the radiator hose is cool to the touch when the car is overheated. Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

It probably has air pockets in the system but it doesn't sound like you have even found the initial leak yet. You need to pressure test the system to finds the leaks and repair them.

Response From Basf76

Thanks for the suggestion but I have no leaks. I have been told maybe the thermostat is stuck on closed or my water pump may have gave out.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you don't know that at all. The system needs to be pressure tested before doing anything else.

Response From Discretesignals

If you don't find any leaks through pressure testing, you could have a water pump failure. If it is the original, it isn't uncommon for the plastic impeller to separate from the shaft. If the thermostat was stuck closed and you had no air in the system, your heater would still be blowing hot.

Ford Ranger thermostat nightmare

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From lukesince79 on Ford Ranger thermostat nightmare

Please help me!!! I am trying to change the thermostat on my 93 Ford Ranger (the 4 cyl.) and I can see the 2 bolts on the thermostat housing but cannot get to them for the life of me. The one on the right side as you are looking at it is wedged between the timing belt cover and the tube that connects to the upper radiator hose. There is literally no room to get a socket in there.

I have done everything according to the Haynes manual and I am totally lost and frustrated with this. Has anyone dealt with this make/model/year changing the thermo?

Response From re-tired

Most DIY types use the socket sets sold by the big box stores . Nothing wrong with that except that they tend to have thick walls. You need a thinwall 12 point socket to slip into that tight space . You may be able to find one at sears . If im wrong about your sockets I apoligize

Response From lukesince79 Top Rated Answer

thanks...I will try that!

Response From Sidom

RT is correct about the sockets.....

When you're putting it back together, if you put some soft paper over the bolt and wedge it into the socket, this will keep the bolt from falling out of the socket and make it easier to start. Just make sure you start it by hand and are triple sure it isn't crossthreaded before you put a ratchet on it or use air....

93 ford taurus

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From littlesoldier on 93 ford taurus

Well i had just got this problem today... i had changed the lower radiator hose and ever since then the engine seems to over heat... i see smoke coming from the back of the engine the hose is on and is tight nothing is getting out. Also it now makes a wierd "clicking" sound when i drive for more than 2 minutes could this all be from changing the hose?

When i go to check the pressure inside the hose it seems like i am pressing agains a hot pipe in the sense that it is hard as a rock when i try to squeeze it. Could this be a problem with the hose "being too tight"?

Response From steve01832

On top of the thermostat housing there should be a brass fitting. This is a bleeder screw. Open the screw while you add coolant (engine cold and off ). You should see air bubbles and eventually straight fluid. This bleeding has to be done every time the cooling system is filled.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Awesome Steve! I just learned something with that. I fight with some and it's always air in the dang system, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What prompted you to replace this hose in the first place?

If not leaking it's tight enough for now and that is not likely to be the problem.

The system must be full of coolant which can hide air and must be checked again and again till known full at radiator and proper level at recovery tank. Just filling a recovery tank will not refill a system that has been drained. Need to know some more about this, T

2004 Ford Freestar minivan cooling issue????

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From 33FIREMAN on 2004 Ford Freestar minivan cooling issue????

I have an issue with my van and it has to do with the cooling system. When I drive around town it runs fine at abot 1/3 on the gauge. When I drive over 60 the gauge climbs to about 8/10!! I've replaced the upper radiator hose and thermostat, and of course the radiator. It still is doing it. Also note that ever since this started I can hear water flowing through the heater core and hoses very loudly....especially when I accelerate from a stop. It has never boiled over and I'm getting frustrated!!! Could there be air in the system that is causing the water noise??? And how do you burp it out when the radiator fill is in the overflow basin??? HELP

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did this do this before changing the thermostat, hose and radiator? I ask as if identical before and after there's something else going on. If worse after I'd say there's air in the system that just can't self purge out the last bit.

Recovery tank should stay steady. System should hold pressure which is regulated by the radiator cap frequently on the recovery tank.

At cold start you can feel upper hose for pressure - should squeeze easily and no pressure and stay cold till thermostat opens -- KEEP HANDS FREE OF FANS AND MOVING PARTS! Hose will get hot to too hot to touch and the expansion makes the pressure build as it warms up. Excess from expanding goes to recovery tank - and will read high on the range. Upon cool down that pressure cap allows air on top of liquid as coolant in engine shrinks again taking back recovered coolant only - not air.

If pressure from before a cold start instantly builds up in short order - one minute or so let us know as it shouldn't.

Some possible reasons for heating up at speed and ok when slower include:

* Low coolant level in engine itself - air still stuck, could account for noise and inadequate cooling. Unusual to not self purge last bit of air after a few cycles once filled it should stay filled and free of air in radiator and all engine parts. Heater core too.

* Water pump impellers may be worn. Usually notices as poor heater performance that gets better with RPMs at first. If erratically worn (corroded) could be cavatating making bubbles and be heard and the bubbles wont cool well and heater wouldn't heat well.

* Antifreeze mix way too strong! Yes - the heat exchanging ability of strong antifreeze doesn't transfer heat well. More than set to -34F is suspect area. Straight antifreeze used about always causes a problem unless very cool outside. It's real purpose is preventing freezing and for it anti-corrosive properties/additive. Makes a lousy coolant for cooling!

* Suction hose to water pump may be collapsing if water pump is strong some can suck them shut or close impeding flow. Springs placed inside those that historically are subject to that problem and usually longer hoses had that issue.

* Air flow must be correct. Any add ons the block air thru grille need be removed. No decorations or alterations or troubles CAN happen.

* Often forgotten is the air dam underside that nicely breaks off with some road to parking areas or those cement parking bumpers used in lots. Even a curb in parking can bust those right off.
There's a key reason for those - not just for looks. As air flow of speed increases the forces CAN/MAY create pressure on underside where the radiator is exiting air so it becomes a stand off and speed of air creates poor flow thru radiator! Fan is needed on several models even at speed but not a match for highway air speeds. Shape of vehicle and design of grille/body matter for this.

** Any of these and more could be the cause. Fan must be operating properly. At the higher temp as mentioned it could be boiling in corners of engine creating bubbles that could cause noise and the overheating.

** If pressure cap can't hold pressure or any item stopping pressure from happening the lower pressure will boil close to the boiling point of water even with antifreez/coolant mix. The pressure allows water and or coolant mix to be 3 degrees hotter F per each pound of pressure it allows. Average pressure caps are about 15lbs meaning plain water wont boil until not 212F but raised to stay as liquid to about 257F. Boiling water or coolant doesn't transfer heat well. In fact cars boiling over the heater will quit as the hot air to air doesn't make heater work - hot liquid can.

All that comes to mind for now. Next lousy reason is engine gaskets like head and or intake gaskets allowing combustion gasses to enter system acting as air. If slow enough it might go un-noticed as coolant loss,

T

Response From Hammer Time

You need to start a new question of your own please.

Response From 33FIREMAN Top Rated Answer

I actually have just now reviewed your post. I was searching for another problem and seen this one. I moved and changed emails soon after the last post and the problem fell to the back burner.

I already replaced the upper radiator hose and it isnt collapsing. At least i dont think. I doesnt do this in the winter temps but only..."ONLY" when running high speeds up a long hill. It will try to creep up...the collant temp that is.

I'm starting to believe it is the impellers in the water pump. I'm gonna get it into a shop as soon as i get my tax return back!!! THANKS!!!!!!!

Response From jimmygpv

I am having the same exact trouble with my 2004 freestar.
Did you have any success with the water pump?

Also, did you have any issue with the heater core? My first problem was lack of heat in winter. (when temp was below 20 deg) and did you get an antifreeze odor in the cabin when the heat was on? I think I have two separate problems, but the overheating one is exactly the same as yours. I am stuck..