I replaced the thermostat in my 1998 Buick Park Avenue after the temp started fluctuating. Now when I turned the car on, my upper and lower radiator hoses compress. What could cause that?
Response From Tom Greenleaf☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Guess: At first start up the radiator pressure cap isn't allowing for return fluid and in battle with water pump or thermostat is all wrong.
The initial fluctuating temps probably weren't the thermostat at all but more a radiator or air in system that radiator cap didn't allow to purge out. It's supposed to allow limited pressure and upon cool down return just coolant from bottom of recovery tank as coolant shrinks with lower temp,
Heat is not coming out
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Question From hallow on Heat is not coming out
It is a 3.1L 2002 Buick Century with roughly 140k miles on it. Ok, my heater worked last winter perfectly and this year it is not. I did notice my car was leaking fluid during the summer so I took it to the shop and it was an intake manifold gasket issue. they replaced both my radiator hoses and my thermostat when it was fixed and was not sure if any of this stuff could be the problem. Both my radiator hoses are hot to the touch after the car has been running quite a bit and the car is not overheating. My grandfather and I took a look at it and noticed the fluid line to the inside of my car was cold and had little fluid in it. He thought it could have an air bubble in it or it has a bad thermostat. I take my car once a week for a 50 mile trip and it only heats up a little about 25 miles in. This is not a significant amount of heat either. Any ideas? Thanks
Response From Hammer Time☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core or poor circulation for another reason. If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
Response From hallow
The hoses are not hot. They are warm but I can still touch them without being burned.
Response From Hammer Time
If you can grab and squeeze those hoses without having to let go, then they are not hot enough. I would try removing both hoses and backflushing the heater core with a garden hose under pressure in both directions.
Response From Tom Greenleaf
First post on this. Intake leaked and hoses and thermostat replaced? Was the intake manifold leak ever fixed? By the time you just keep adding coolant hopefully for a slow leak till fixed a problem frequently causes more problems.
If system isn't tight it will not stay full and air or vapor in system would be the up front problem. Cause needs to be found and fixed,
Response From hallow
Okay so I was able to get my car fixed. Yes the intake manifold gasket was fixed. The heater core needed to be flushed. and coolant replaced. The heat works perfectly now.
Response From Tom Greenleaf
OK - Closed as solved to keep spammers out. You can open by request to any moderator. Stay warm,
2001 Buick Century Overheats
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Question From Celestialsfire on 2001 Buick Century Overheats
2001 Buick Century 3.1 Engine ~95,000 miles Low coolant light comes on and off at will. Losing coolant out of reserve tank. Losing a little bit of oil too. Now coolant is running out of the radiator a lot more than usual. A year ago had the coolant system flushed out. After I took a trip out of state and came back, the car acts likes it overheats, meaning the temperature gauge on the dash says its hot, but the light indicator saying its hot doesn't come on, nor does steam come out of the car and the car doesn't act up like it has done in the past when it has overheated. Usually when the engine was low on coolant it would jerk when shifting, because it was overheating. In town it used to overheat and on the highway it was fine. Now its just the opposite. It overheats at high speeds but is fine when I stop. Is it the fan belt or the radiator hoses or plainly just the radiator itself? I need to know what I should replace right now to make the most impact.
Thank you for your time.
Response From Loren Champlain Sr☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Celestialsfire; Oh, I like that name. First, we need to find out where the coolant is going. You cannot depend on the light, or, even the guage. Both require sending units to be in contact with coolant to tell you the truth. Once the coolant level gets too low, they aren't dependable. A cooling system pressure test should answer this question. Assuming the cooling system is full and all air bled from the system, overheating at speed is usually caused by either a thermostat not opening all of the way or the radiator may be plugged. A rarity, but the impeller on the water pump could be faulty.
Response From Celestialsfire
Thank you for your response.
Another thing I just remembered. When I was returning from my trip, the car started to overheat, so I pulled over the side of the road and looked in the coolant reserve tank. It was filled up with water. I did not put any water in it. I use the 50/50 premixed stuff. How could water mysteriously get into the reserve tank? Is the water pump going bad too?
Response From Loren Champlain Sr
Celestialsfire; As the coolant gets hot, it will expand, the pressure will overcome the radiator cap pressure rating and go into the reservoir. As the engine cools, it will reverse, and go back into the radiator. When you have the cooling system pressure tested, make certain that they check the radiator cap as well.