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We stock Radiator Cap parts for most Ram models, including CV, Dakota, H100, 1500, 2500, 3500, 5500.

Mopar
2011 Ram 1500 Radiator Cap Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Ram 1500
CSF Radiator
2012 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 6.7L CSF Radiator

P311-5F25125    4539  New

10234

Qty:
$4.10
  • Radiator Cap
  • Small, 18 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 3500 DIESEL L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
CSF Radiator
2012 Ram 1500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 4.7L CSF Radiator

P311-5B46201    4515  New

10230

Qty:
$5.80
  • Radiator Cap
  • Small, 16 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 1500 United States V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Gates
2014 Ram H100 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.5L Gates - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-025E7ED    31333  New

ER-25 , 31333 , 19045-PM3-004 , 94842508 , OK202-15-205 , 21430-1B000 , FEG8-15-205 , MB222066 , 21430-4B000 , OK2C6-15-205 , 21430-01F01 , 70227BL , 8941532510 , 19045-PR7-A06 , 33028 , 25330-33101 , 2143079901 , 16401-76020 , 16401-63010 , 52467188 , 25330-14200 , F32Z 8100 A , 96051843 , 25330-21000 , 2533011415 , F3XY 8100 A , YF5H 8100 AA , 17920-60B20 , 16401-50050 , F6XZ 8100 AA , F6XH 8100 AA , 214307999C , 96051840 , 2143001F90 , 10227 , F1CZ 8100 A , 46033 , RS-67 , D316-15-205 , AW332158 , 703-1695 , MB890520 , N3A1-15-205A , 25330-33000 , F4BZ 8100 A , KL11-15-205A , 45153AC030 , RS-63 , 25330-33010 , 133-0144 , 2533033001 , 17920-82000 , L95-4063 , 45113GA021 , 21430-7994A , F8B7-15-205 , 17920-61A00 , 89438444230 , E8GY 8100 A , 33032 , RR-27 , 745153011 , 16401-0C010 , E92H 8100 AC , 82933 , 31430-O1F01 , 96062603 , 21430-0B200 , MB660701 , 82927 , 45113GA020 , E92H 8100 AB , 19045-PM3-003 , 46029 , 2143089973 , N321-15-205 , 1770083100 , F57Z 8100 A , YF5Z 8100 AA , N350-15-205 , E8BZ 8100 A , 21430-01F02 , 70227RD , MB222336 , 19045-PR3-005 , E92Z 8100 B , 17920-83101 , MR481218 , 16401-50070 , 214307995A , E9ZZ 8100 B , MB660735 , L95-4060 , 21430-O1F01 , FS11-15-205 , OK30A-15-205 , 703-1443 , E7GZ 8100 A , 17920-60B21 , 214307999A , 45113GA120 , 45113GA121 , 16401-50020 , RA-13 , 45113GA022 , 133-0145 , ER-29 , 1640187712000 , MB356417 , 644107 , 17920-61AA0 , MB845036 , 94854943 , 745113051 , 16401-01010 , 25330-G010 , R-27 , MB660171 , 17920-83100 , T-13R , 21430-17C00 , 25330-33100 , 25330-36000 , KL78-15-205 , 8941169162 , 3533036000 , E8BZ 8100 B , 7513 , 16401-71010 , 16401-15210 , K817-15-205 , 107 , 11227 , RS-79 , 19045-PR3-004 , 21430-01F00 , 21430-2Z000 , 17920-78120 , 25330-33001 , 16401-50021 , F807-15-205 , L95-4080 , 745113050 , 94847233 , 21430-4B700 , 19045-PR3-003 , 21430-O1F00 , RS-84 , 53-10728 , E8GY 8100 B , B303-15-205A , 21430-4B701 , MB605277 , 16401-76021 , ZZM2-15-205 , 16401-16010 , 16401-74170 , MB660055 , 745113052

Qty:
$10.23
Gates Radiator Cap
  • 13 psi Pressure Rating
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Closed System
    • OE Comparison Rating: Oe Performance
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 12-16
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.59
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Ram H100 DIESEL L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2476
Gates
2010 Ram 2500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Gates - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-42DB0A2    31518  New

703-1462 , 31518 , 10330 , 70330RD , 33062 , 46063 , 70330BL , 703-1701 , 11330 , 644130 , ST-16

Qty:
$8.05
Gates Radiator Cap
  • 16 psi Pressure Rating
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Optional System
    • Filler Neck Depth (in): .75
    • Filler Neck Inside Diameter (in): 1.61
    • Filler Neck Outside Diameter (in): 2.13
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 14-18
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.61
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Ram 2500 GAS V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Gates
2010 Ram 2500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Gates - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-3A234E9    31528  New

12474637 , RS-17B , 15075565 , R-30 , 6410962 , CAC4568 , RS-83 , 133-8086 , 33008 , 31528 , RS-51 , 53-10678 , WC-18 , RS-53 , F1VY 8100 B , 4-3870 , RS-80 , RA-20 , RC-20 , 620204 , E9DZ 8100 A , RC-44 , RC-26 , 5-21450-002-1 , CAC5095 , RC-17 , RC-29 , 94021623 , FIVH 8100 BA , RC-18 , 15977333 , L95-4020 , T-16V , CCC6707 , RS-64 , 82930 , RS-53A , RS-40 , 7018 , 12R7 , 94022635 , 52006926 , 944 106 257 0 , 4596198 , 133-8060 , RR-18 , 6410691 , 4693175 , 46009 , BC-17 , 46008 , 5278697AA , 125 , ZZM1-15-205 , 7016 , DR-17 , EAC4192 , R-31 , R-19 , RA-17 , 703-1421 , RC-34 , 620203 , 33007 , RS-60 , 8315764 , RR-30 , 25661994 , RC-33 , T-16 , RR-20 , 703-1420 , 130 , 19045-PH7-003 , 703-1402 , WR-17 , RS-17A , R-17 , RS-43 , 52014479AA , 53-10686 , 33031 , RR-17 , 944 106 257 00 , R-18 , RS-44 , 22583309 , RR-31 , 3-M-17 , R-20 , 131 , RS-34 , 126 , 9-21450-610-0 , RR-19 , 6410665 , EAC3702 , ER-18 , 5358177 , S17 , F4TZ 8100 B , 703-1698 , JLM9652 , C44995 , L95-4012 , RS-17 , 6410160 , WC-17 , 70230RD , BR-17 , 17111468060 , 4592098 , RS-47A , 52028892AA , 5352594 , 9-21450-610-1 , ER-28 , 861050 , 11171100848 , RS-61 , 133-9001 , RS-35 , WR-18 , 703-1446 , RC-15 , RC-19 , F47H 8100 AB , 94228748 , 8-94228-748-1 , 94026437 , 25697430 , 10230 , 703-1417 , 11230 , WA-17 , ER-17 , 3-EG-175 , 46032 , SP-19 , A-17 , 70230BL , 4596444AA , DR-29 , 119

Qty:
$5.84
Gates Radiator Cap
  • 16 psi Pressure Rating
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Optional System
    • Filler Neck Depth (in): .75
    • Filler Neck Inside Diameter (in): 1.61
    • Filler Neck Outside Diameter (in): 2.13
    • OE Comparison Rating: Oe Performance
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 14-18
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.33
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Ram 2500 GAS V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Gates
2011 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 6.7L Gates - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-4A79742    31535  New

11334 , 33066 , 46067 , ST-18 , 7718 , 31535 , 10334

Qty:
$6.29
Gates Radiator Cap
  • 18 psi Pressure Rating
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Optional System
    • Filler Neck Depth (in): .75
    • Filler Neck Inside Diameter (in): 1.61
    • Filler Neck Outside Diameter (in): 2.13
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 16-20
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.61
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 3500 DIESEL L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Gates
2011 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 6.7L Gates - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-1C19F97    31525  New

12R10 , 703-1725 , 52079691AA , 33043 , 4546255 , 52079799AA , 10219587 , 55111361AA , 703-2464 , 52028860AB , T-18 , 46044 , 10283371 , R-34 , 10233950 , 11234 , 10402081 , 52027793 , 52028974AA , 10234 , 25713159 , 25730221 , 52028860AA , 31525

Qty:
$4.89
Gates Radiator Cap
  • 18 psi Pressure Rating
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Optional System
    • Filler Neck Depth (in): .75
    • Filler Neck Inside Diameter (in): 1.61
    • Filler Neck Outside Diameter (in): 2.13
    • OE Comparison Rating: Oe Performance
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 16-20
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.33
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 3500 DIESEL L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Mopar
2013 Ram C/V Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.6L Mopar

P311-01CE70C    5278697AA  New

Qty:
$13.80
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Engine Designation Doors Body Trans. Speed Drive Type Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Transmission Manuf. Code Wheel FeedBase Engine Version Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram C/V Base Automatic ERB 4 Mini Cargo Van 6 FWD Naturally Aspirated FLEX G DOHC FI 62TE 121.2 Pentastar V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Stant
2018 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-563AE79    10330  New

DRS-29 , 7716 , 703-1701 , 644130 , 33062 , 1501-16 , 31518 , 82830 , 11330 , 10330 , RSP-30

Qty:
$11.14
Stant Radiator Cap
  • Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
  • 16 PSI Lev-R-Vent radiator cap in "A" size. For open or closed system. Will bring back coolant from the overflow tank.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ram 3500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Stant
2018 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4F56E0F    10230  New

RS-43 , 4592098 , RC-44 , 6410691 , RS-17A , RR-19 , 131 , RS-17B , RS-80 , 94222052 , 133-9001 , RA-20 , RC-34 , 25661994 , F4TZ 8100 B , RR-30 , 94021623 , RS-44 , RS-53 , WC-18 , 19045-PH7-003 , 22583309 , C44995 , RR-20 , 9-21450-610-0 , ER-17 , RS-53A , 25060228 , RS-47A , 12339878 , RS-61 , WR-17 , CAC4568 , 46008 , RS-90 , 25697430 , RS-64 , 7016 , RC-26 , 04596444AA , 4596444AA , S17 , 11 53 1 486 703 , 133-8060 , M-17 , RS-17 , RR-18 , RS-40 , 125 , F1VY 8100 B , BC-17 , RR-31 , L95-4012 , CCC6707 , RC 81 , RS-34 , 6410665 , 620203 , 33031 , ZZM1-15-205 , F47H 8100 AB , ER-18 , 944 106 257 00 , 620204 , EAC4192 , WC-17 , 3-M-17 , RS-83 , L95-4020 , 11171100848 , 15977333 , 9-21450-610-1 , 31528 , EAC3702 , 82930 , 52014479AA , 8-94228-748-1 , RC 95 , 133-8086 , 4693175 , 94222051 , 46032 , WR-18 , RC-17 , 944 106 257 0 , 3-EG-175 , WA-17 , 130 , 861050 , JLM9652 , 53-10686 , 703-1698 , 53-10678 , RC-18 , 46009 , RR-17 , 05086226AA , ER-28 , 5352594 , RS-60 , DR-17 , 94026437 , 15075565 , E9DZ 8100 A , 94022635 , DR-29 , RS-51 , 12R7 , RA-17 , 05278697AA , 126 , R-31 , 5086226AA , 6410160 , RC 82 , CAC5095 , 10230 , RC-33 , 5191233AA , FIVH 8100 BA , RC-19 , 119 , 5-21450-002-1 , R-30 , RS-35 , 94228748 , RC-20 , SP-19 , 94250629 , RC-15 , 17111468060 , 04693175AA , 5278697AA , BR-17 , ST-16 , 94250633 , A-17 , RC-29 , 12474637 , 6410962 , 8315764

Qty:
$5.71
Stant Radiator Cap
  • Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • 16 PSI radiator cap for a 3/4" deep "A" size filler neck. Made of durable metal, 4 ear design. For open or closed system.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ram 3500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Stant
2012 Ram 5500 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 6.7L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-5DDEB03    10234  New

55111361AA , RC 104 , 46044 , 55116897AA , RC 86 , 10233950 , 52027793 , 703-1725 , 25713159 , 12R10 , 10402081 , 55116901AA , 25730221 , 92177005 , RC 24 , 52079691AA , 52028860AB , RR-34 , 52028974AA , 10234 , 5103533AA , RC 50 , 33043 , 10283371 , 10219587 , 10316828 , 7018 , 4546255 , 31525 , 52079799AA , T-18 , 52028860AA

Qty:
$5.11
Stant Radiator Cap
  • Pressure Rating 18 psi This part is also available in the Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit 120KT, which contains 45359 (Engine Coolant Thermostat), 25160 (Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket) and 74172 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor)
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • 18 PSI radiator cap for a 3/4" deep "A" size filler neck. Made of durable metal, 4 ear design. For open or closed system.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 5500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Stant
2012 Ram 5500 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 6.7L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-221DFC4    10334  New

459 6198 , 33066 , ST-18 , 703-1737 , 4596198 , 31535

Qty:
$11.53
Stant Radiator Cap
  • Pressure Rating 18 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
  • 18 PSI Lev-R-Vent radiator cap in "A" size. For open or closed system. Will bring back coolant from the overflow tank.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 5500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Stant
2014 Ram 3500 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.4L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-58D802D    10271  New

31569 , 13502509 , 68096261AA , 33092 , 20838623 , T-62 , 13502353 , 703-1546

Qty:
$9.29
Stant Radiator Cap
  • Pressure Rating 20 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • 20 PSI coolant cap for threaded filler neck. For use on closed systems. Made of durable plastic.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Ram 3500 V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424

Latest Ram Repair and Radiator Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

dodge ram overheats

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From zxvtrp on dodge ram overheats

My 1983 dodge ram 318 cu in engine overheats after driving about 20 minutes. I notice the top radiator hose very tight like thermostat stuck. I removed it and it did it again. So I replace radiator cap and still the top hose gets very tight when I notice overheating. I installed new radiator a couple of years ago and put on new water pump about a year ago, so I don't think the radiator is plugged. Could my engine jacket be plugged?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

When you say the radiator hose get very tight I'm guessing you mean with pressure. If it pressurizes very quickly from cold it may be from a head gasket leak putting gasses into the cooling system. Top rad hose should stay cool till thermostat opens and will be too hot to hold and you will feel the air from the fan warm up. If that's not happening coolant can't flow.

Check that coolant is staying full at radiator cap and reservoir,

T

2000 Ram 1500 heater

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From mattc on 2000 Ram 1500 heater

Hi - new visitor here - thanks for the opportunity. I took my 2000 Ram to the shop yesterday for a new water pump and belt. All of this went fine but now I have no heat. I've checked all of the vacuum lines I can find, I can feel the heater core behind the glove box and it's hot and the blower is working fine. The shop is closed and I need to have my truck at work Monday. Could it be air blend and if so is it electric or vacuum? Is there any way to "rig" this into the correct position until I can fix it? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Response From jj

under hood pass. side should be a black vacuum line by dryer follow it to engine checking it for breaks and still hooked up

Response From Jeff Norfolk

jj, I think the blend door actuator is electric per the previous posts from 2 month ago.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

jj: Appeciate any help and comments. Look at the dates or the original posts - some are just archives,

T

Response From Double J

Mode Door = vacuum motor
Blend Air Door = electric actuator
Fresh/Recirc = vacuum motor

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Nice find JIM. With this recent water pump job and this problem right away I suspect it might not be properly filled with coolant - even hot air will make the core hot to the touch but not transfer heat worth a damn. Check level at radiator cap and then adjust level at recovery tank,

T

Response From mattc

Thanks guys, the coolant level is good and flowing. I'm really suspecting the air blend but I'm having a hard time believing the coincedence of timing. The last time I had the truck fixed there it was the air conditioning and I lost the cruise control. It seems a bit of a chore to get that far into the dash - any diagnostic suggestions before I drop another $1000 on the truck? Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The coincidence is uncanny?? JIM found that the blend door is an electric actuator. Perhaps you can get a peek or hand on it going up from under passenger's side lower dash or thru the glove box. I don't know but it might be electrically controlling a lever that you could get at. Do the other functions of the control head work?

T

Response From mattc

Found the actuator - thanks - unfortunately there isn't anything exposed enough to get a tool on. Yes, everything else works. I can't dismantle anything either due to proximity to the floor. It sounds like I should brace for another bill huh?

Dodge Ram Keeps Exploding

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gene on Dodge Ram Keeps Exploding

Hi - this is my first post. I've been to three mechanics and have paid $$$ so maybe someone here has some insight? 2002 4.7L Dodge Ram SLT1500 w/100k miles seems to have an unhealthy buildup of pressure in the radiator system at high speeds. Hoses have blown, radiator has been replaced, coolant bubbles out of newly-replaced reservoir and radiator cap. Thermostat has been replaced twice. Nobody can point to the problem, they just want to replace the parts that fail. Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

All cooling systems build pressure. The pressure is maintained at a constant level through the cap. If you were building excess pressure, it would be spilling out of the cap. If you have hoses bursting, the hose was bad in the first place. Now, if you are getting hot air building in the cooling system and displacing coolant, that would be different. That would indicate a likely blown head gasket.

Re: heat not hot in 98 dodge ram

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From ebrady on Re: heat not hot in 98 dodge ram

I have a very similar story. I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 360ci with 170,000ish miles on it. I had the radiator go out on me on our fist really cold day of the winter (high in the teens). The radiator had separated where the core attaches to the plastic sides. I replaced the just the radiator as I was doing it in the drive-way and it was reasonably cold out. Very straight forward, remove the shroud, pull the hoses & trans lines, replace.
After that I was never able to get any heat in the cab (it had worked very well before). I could see the temperature gauge rise to about 200°F and then fall to around 170°/160°F and never get much past 190°F or so. I felt fairly confident that the thermostat was working as it should.. but it never really got hot inside that cab. Several weeks went by and no change. I went out to a buddy’s when we could pull it into his garage and look at it. We felt the lower radiator hose and it was cold (it’s a 30 min drive at 50mph to his place but it’s also 12 °F outside) but the top one was hot. We let the truck cool and pulled the radiator cap and let it run until after I saw the temperature gauge peek then fall to a constant temperature. We didn’t see very much circulation in the radiator. We then let it cool down again and pulled the top hose and let it run with the top hose in a bucket… when the thermostat opened we saw very little coolant come out the top hose and mostly some steam. From this we concluded that the water pump had failed.
We replaced the pump (prior to loosing the pump we did see evidence of coolant leaking on the harmonic balancer). I saw immediate improvement in the heat inside the cab, while we were refilling the system with coolant. On the drive home it was not as hot in the cab but I figured that there was still some air in the system that needed to get worked out. The following day I noticed that the coolant reservoir was low and I toped it off.. this happened twice over the following week but has been steady at the ‘Full’ line every since. I still do not have the heat in the cab as I did before the radiator failed. Do I go ahead and replace the thermostat even though it seems to be operating correctly? I also was wondering if you were able to fix the problem that you were having?

Thanks Eric


please note that this is in reply/response to:
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Truck_Repair_C6/General_Discussions_F3/heat_not_hot_in_98_dodge_ram_P65267/gforum.cgi?post=65267;t=search_engine originally posted by skydver
I am not sure why it didn’t thread

Response From skydver

Eric,
I too had the radiator crack in the same spot. the replacement also cracked 2 days after install but the 3rd one seems good. I have not had a water pump that didnt pump. both hoses get hot and there are no engine cooling problems. At this time I only have 15 degree hotter heat. I have also had a friend (not a mechanic) tell me maybe I should replace the water pump. As of right now I havent decided to try that. The pump is pumping fine and not leaking. I dont understand why this would effect the heater. I get extremely hot air when the fan is on low 195 degrees to be exact. so I know the pump is doing its job. I might be wrong but I dont think that is the problem. I welcome any explannation as to why this would make a differece. when mornings are in the upper 30s and low 40s the heat works fine. its still slow to warm up but I do have to turn it down before I get to work. I have found that if I run the a/c on max(recirculate) and the temp selector on hot as possible then it will warm up on those 20 degree mornings. so on those rare days I will make do. I cant justify in this economy spending a hundred bucks on a water pump that I dont know beyond any doubt will fix the problem. So if you can explain why (or anybody reading this) I would love an explaination. good luck with yours.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Eric,

I moved it because you tagged it on an old post such that we would have to read the whole thing again. State just your problems please as they are not "just like that one" that was a mile long.

Ok: You are messing with 12F temps so thermostat isn't going to open too much and lower hose would be cold as radiator has abundant cold air.

If the complaint is poor heat than be checking the heater hoses and that temp can get to operating temp, no more no less even at the cold temps. If it fluctuates, continues to have air that's an issue. At first fill there will be some air that should purge out in a couple cycles such then when radiator cap is removed it's always full. Recovery tank will vary level based on warm or cold as marked.

Need to know the heater core's hose temps in and out - the smaller (typical for inlet to be smaller hose) should be very hot and outlet still fairly hot on a cold day but still not cold - all with engine at operating temps.

What is the coolant freeze protection set to? Way too strong won't work well,

T

Response From ebrady

Thank you Tom & SkyDver.
I read your posts when I got home from running errands after work last night. I had an hour or so of drive time with 15 minutes of that being on the Interstate @60~70 mph. The outside temperature was 31° F (with a light rain) So somewhat warmer than what we have been having. I went out to check the heater hoses as Tom suggested. The truck had 15 or 20 minutes of cool-down time by the time I got out there. I was able to feel both heater hoses from as close to the water pump as I could get all the way to the firewall and they were both consistently warm to the touch. I also felt the top radiator hose and it felt about the same temperature as the heater hoses. The lower radiator hose was cold. I am not exactly sure how to specifically measure the temperature of the coolant in just the heater hoses. I do have several meet thermometers that I could shove in one of the vents in the cab while the heater is running and the truck is at operating temperature ((160°/170° F) per gauge). I am not sure if that will give an accurate reading of the actual temperature of the heating system.

Note:
Both heater hoses appear to be the same size inside the engine compartment.

(coolant freeze protection) - Fresh anti-freeze when I replaced the water pump.
Approximately a 60% solution of antifreeze. It was Prestone (non-diluted/all make & model )that I picked up from Wal-Mart.


Thanks -- Eric

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Eric - sorry if I came across short on you. No excuse - was tired from shoveling damn snow and the phone was ringing off the hook messing up my train of thought. I'm here all the time so would know how the site works best for you.

Know this: You need to know a few things with a poor heat situation. Is the thermostat new or not staying shut till it's prescribed temp? If your gauge is accurate the answer is NO. 160-170F will only pant warm air. There's a temp loss just going thru ductwork that varies but can be significantly lower than the coolant that goes thru the core.

It's hard to understand but you are quickly losing heat transfer ability with strong antifreeze concentrations. As said it's a terrible heat exchanger as it holds less caloric value that plain water which we can't do. One huge problem is testers are frequently way off! I test new testers with exactly known 50/50 mix to achieve an industry standard of -34F protection. Some vehicle ask for -20F to enhance heat transfer for the engine! A setting of -20F at -40F will freeze to a slushy mess that won't circulate (a problem) but doesn't expand when frozen. Plain water expands as we know and wrecks things and has no anti corrosive ability so we still use antifreeze. Rock and hard place.

We really need know as you are complaining what the available temps really are. Radio Shack has a $15 touchless infrared thermometer which is wicked handy. You will love to have one - check you home fridge and freezer - oven temps etc.

Harbor freight (I hear) has one for $10 with the battery but range isn't as much.

The metal cover to the thermostat should be very close to the thermostat's rating once it has opened even a smide. Doesn't matter too much how cold the weather as there is abundant heat from and engine. Think of the wind chill on a radiator at hwy speeds which is the speed heat will transfer not when it will freeze.

The heater hoses when fan is on low should be hot to the touch - perhaps too hot to touch depending on your tolerance. I trust you will be careful as 200F water is way over what would burn you.

Air must be out and once drained it takes a couple or more cycles of thermostat opening and closing to finish getting air out in this type engine. Some are a nightmare to purge.

A test: Feel upper hose from cold. Duh upon start up it should be cold and stay stone cold till engine is up to operating temp and even though at cold temps thermostat doesn't open fully you can quickly notice that hose warm up. If it's showing warmth before the engine is warm something is wrong with the thermostat. It could be the part or it's installed with a bend or such that coolant can pass by it and even a little will mess up the show.

Need the actual temps available to proceed. Sounds so far like the heater core is ok but the coolant temp is too low and the higher fan speeds will act like wind chill on it but the higher calorie hot liquids win out over air even well below zero and especially a V8 engine. I'll allow for excuses at about -20 or more but temp should stay even in this at all but the wildest extremes if all is well.

Job #1 is accurate available temps of coolant and never mind the lower hose of radiator,

T

Response From ebrady

Thank you Tom!
I looked on line at Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/search/ucResultsNoProducts.jsp?sr=1&kw=infrared+thermometer&origkw=Infrared+Thermometer&kwCatId=) but they were not showing any. Harbor Freight does have one for $20.00 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93984) and we do have a store relativity close by, but I won't be able to get out that way until this weekend. I did try and call a couple of the auto parts stores close by (O'Riley & AutoZone) to see if they had one behind the counter that I could borrow right quick to take the mesurments out in the parking lot, but neither one of them had one. I should be able to do your quick test tonight or late tomorrow after noon. I have NOT replaced the thermostat as of yet. I hope that the quick test can rule one way or another on weather to replace it or not. I would think that the air has purged it's self from the system as I have been driving it daily (Sat=2weeks on new water pump). With the cold we have been having I do let it warm up out in the drive a good 10~15 minutes before I leave in the morning.

Thank you again for your help and I will let you know what the results are.


-- Eric

Response From Tom Greenleaf


that's the one I use and they may have quit selling them. They should be available at other stores - automotive or not. Fooled with the meat thermo types and household in/out wired ones no really suitable for this.

I know you don't want to wait forever but just Googled Images which leads to places and Amazon had a small one and many places but didn't dig into prices. Ask and ye shall find one out there,

T

Response From ebrady

Tom
The wife and I were out by Sears so I just went ahead and picked up an IR Thermometer (-4° to 500°).
Here are the numbers:

Heater hose as close to the fire wall as I could get (~4” from hose to meter)
· IN: 150°
· OUT: 127°
· Upper Radiator hose: 140° (as close as I could get to the water neck)

It’s a balmy 34° out according to weather.com

The truck was cold since we took the wife’s car out shopping. I did the best I could to run back and forth from checking the gauge in the cab and the upper radiator hose. The hose stayed right around 38° until the gauge got to about 195° and then began to increase in temperature fairly quickly. Based on what you said earlier, it sounds like the thermostat is fine?
I did measure the reservoirs on either side of the radiator and was surprised that the intake said 152° and the outgoing was 41°. That just seem like a big difference, but then I am not the expert.

Oh and one more thing… you were right I have been measuring everything… but then got spacious when it said my beer can was 66°…until I read the manual and it said that reflective surfaces would not register correctly. Whew I was about ready to take the darn thing back.

Thanks
--Eric

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Cool Beans - didn't know Sears sold them!

As said there's a drop in output air temp just going thru the dash duct-work so you probable only get 140ish F outputs in cab. Home forced hot (so called) air is about that so it doesn't burn anything but comes in copious amounts. Motor vehicles exchange cabin air for fresh roughly every 40 seconds and when moving along there's a lot of wind chill on cabins that are not really insulated like a home heat.

You don't have enough heat available. The thermostat must be opening too soon or leaking a bit past it all the time.



That's a pic of Mopar small block which probably hasn't changed basic format. Vertical thermostats if new can slide easily and allow water flow past them. If flat like this it should set it right the first time without too much hassle. Is yours like this?

Either way the temps should be usually close to rating of thermostat at the cover as said. Most engines call for ~195F thermostats.

Thermostats are relatively stupid things that is a wax pellet that expands against a set strength of spring to achieve the temp rating of it. When closing it may not seat back to dang near air tight shut and water pump continues to circulate coolant to maintain internal engine coolant a uniform temp - necessary action for any "water cooled" engine.

It's opening too soon. You can test one in a pan of water on stove and watch is open just a crack at the rating and wide open some degrees beyond the rating. They do partial or wide depending on demand.

Should be a relatively easy one to replace. Go for quality and test it in a pan which is tricky but when lifted out to cool off you see that it quickly shuts tight. Some will put a "V" notch in them to allow the smallest amount of coolant to pass by but it's really there to let air purge. If you use "Permatex" gasket maker on both sides of the gasket and some smear of silicone grease on manifold surface the gasket can be reused. First ones you scrape off in shards usually.

Recent or new now that thermostat if your info is correct is too low.

For now I suggest a new thermostat and carefully lower antifreeze concentration to read -25 or so but not to exceed -34F or 50/50.

/

OE spec was 192F is info was correct. 195F is more commonly available aftermarket which should be just fine as calibration of a couple degrees isn't always that close. Between those two changes you should have good heat again and a steady temp needle once fully warmed up,

T

Response From ebrady

Tom,
Okay so sounds like thermostat replacement and reducing the antifreeze to water ratio.


The thermostat sits horizontally on the intake manifold. I found a very nice post on replacing a thermostat on Dodge 318/360 trucks complete with step by step photographs. Pretty straight forward, just have to get a few things out of the way to get to it. The only concern I have is being able to get to the manifold to clean the old gasket material off. O’Reilly is the closest parts store for me and they have several to choose from. I’ll stay away from the cheepies.


Looks like if I get my butt in gear and get going now, I should be able to knock this out before the outside temperatures drops and the rain/snow move in. Thank you again for all your help and explanations. I have a MUCH better understanding of the system works and what I need to be aware of. I’ll let you know how things turn out.


--Eric
(edited out links that snuck in - nothing more)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - it should be a cake walk thermostat. Take the hose right off the outlet and clean that outlet real good off car. Stuff a rag (don't lose it in engine please) in where thermostat sits so it gasket junk gets around it wont get into cooling system.

Now if the detent is in the outlet, make sure t-stat is exactly in the detent for it (go 195F) and stick gasket using the Permatex to hold it in place. Another trick for when a thermostat is indexed to exact spot in the outlet is to use a piece of "mechanics" or softer wire to hold it, bend over edge in such a way that a gentle tug will harmlessly remove the wire.

DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS/BOLTS OF COVER TO MANIFOLD! If cover breaks new ones are available. May have to get some fancy chrome one if needed right away.

OK: All hooked up now. You didn't need or shouldn't have needed to empty the system to do this as it's up high. Use just water up to 1 qt first then add coolant set to about -10 for the rest if there is still lots of coolant in the engine. It's guesswork but check and recheck several times over the next week of use that you aren't not over much at least the -34 -- a tad less concentrated is fine as said earlier.

Specific to this engine (been around since the wheel) is just run heater, let and watch engine warm up after initial fill at radiator with cap on, feel for heat at the upper hose AND watch gauge. There plain will be some air to burp out. Shut down engine before it gets too hot. Heat handily rises so thermostat will stay open letting the air to radiator. Wait - feel for pressure at upper hose as an indicator for pressure to subside and you'll find coolant level dropped. Start engine with cap off (careful as if engine is hot coolant can shoot back out so goggles and stand a bit away if unsure of yourself and slowly add your waiting coolant to the now lowered level till full. When heater throws heat there's enough for it to self burp/purge the rest using the recovery tank over several cycles it will expand, send air to recovery tank and when cooled off again only return coolant - voila!

This engine should be done in a few cycles and stable. Check it every day and have ready to use coolant with you. A clue that it's overheating or with large air bubble left is heat won't work at all. Watch gauge like a hawk.

Again: test your anti-freeze tester and if not accurate using a measuring cup get a new one and check it too. Too many are way too far off. If you use a measuring cup meant for food (not a great idea if you can't clean that like crazy) than use a plastic cup and destroy it as antifreeze is poison! Plenty of 16 oz cups out there that are disposable.

Once more. If thermostat is to be stuck in the outlet there's always a chance it didn't seat well or stay in it's spot and it would do exactly like before if coolant slipped by it. Most would leak but not always.

Take you time to do it right once and don't get mad if it does slip out of place chalk it up to practice. If that happens make sure thermostat isn't bent or another is indicated.

You can do this. If you go to the Heat and A/C section there's a neat chart of how mixtures of known quantities will result in what freeze level protection stuck in the top few threads there.

Good luck,

T

PS: Let us know how it all worked out.............

Response From ebrady

Tom,
Looks like the new thermostat has done the trick. It was unusually warm on Saturday so good for me working outside, but hard to get a good idea how well the heater is working. There was, however a noticeable improvement in the temperature inside the cab. We are back to falling temps. They are saying by Thursday a high of 16° . So it will be a good test of the new thermostat. I haven’t’ had a chance to take temperature measurements from a cold start, but I did note a temp of 179° on the heater inlet hose while I was topping off the coolant after getting it all put back together. I did take it out for a brief test run and topped off the overflow when I got back… about a quart or so. I’ll keep checking it when I get home from work for the rest of the week to make sure it’s topped off.
Thank you again for all your help and I hope that this will help out the other readers as well!


--Eric

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds like you got it eric - way to go!

Temp should stay steady now warm day or not as it's regulated as intended. Stay warm,

T

Engine running cold

Showing 2 out of 33 Posts | Show 31 Hidden Posts
Question From msaeger on Engine running cold

2002 Honda Civic EX
1.7L engine
172K miles

When driving down the road the engine will get hot enough to generate enough heat to heat the car. If stopped it quickly cools down. It will never warm up when at idle.

The temp gauge never goes higher than a little below center it used to go to center.

Radiator and overflow are filled to where they should be.

Upper and lower radiator hoses are never too hot to touch and even after driving on the highway I can remove the radiator cap and there is no pressure.

Hoping it's just the thermostat what are the chances I am right or what else could it be?

Response From msaeger

So today it got up to 20 something I drove about 30 miles to work. When I got there I checked the hoses and both were hot so I think it's working as it should. I think the other day when it was -10 it was just so cold out it never got hot enough to need to open the thermostat. Even on the -10 day I did get heat and the engine stayed up to temp so I am happy with the level of heat now. Also now the system is building pressure so I think it was just the thermostat. When I compared the old and new ones the old one has the spring on the small end compressed more than the new one. (I am seeing this called the bypass valve?)

Engine would probably have been destroyed by now if I wasn't getting proper cooling so it must be ok :)

Thanks everybody for the help!

Response From msaeger


Issue was that it would run cold and the coolant would get low. When I posted this I didn't really know it was getting low because after replacing the thermostat I filled it and it stayed full a few days so I thought it was ok. Replacing the thermostat did not fix it so I brought it to a shop.

They told me the radiator was leaking and replaced that. Problem was still happening so they looked at it again and said the lower radiator hose was leaking at the engine connection. They put another clamp on there and thought it was fixed.

It ran normal for two days now today it was running hot. I have never seen it run hot before. I pull over and open the hood and the upper radiator hose was leaking at the connection. It has a spring type clamp so I moved the clamp and it stopped leaking.

It took it to a different garage today and they did a pressure test, checked the fans, and checked the temp sensors with the scan tool. Everything was ok so they drove it and couldn't get it to run hot again. Then I drove it over a 100 miles and it ran at the normal temp.

The place I took it to today is guessing a head gasket but said they couldn't know for sure without taking it apart.

I am not seeing coolant in the oil or white smoke from the exhaust is there some way to tell if it is a head gasket leak?

Air is getting in there somehow. It seems like someone will mess with is top up the coolant then it will run ok for a few days before having a problem again.

Also would you guys replace the head gasket or swap the engine for a used one?

Response From GC

Ahh a vital piece of information not included in the last thread. Coolant is disappearing...

There are a few different ways you can check for combustion leaks. Pressure testing, (overnight on a stubborn one, then scope into cylinder looking for moisture), block testing liquid can work well on hard to verify leaks (i dont trust it completely, as its easy to screw up), exhaust gas analyzer in coolant reservoir or radiator (expensive equipment). With a faulty cooling system for this long, I wouldnt be surprised that there is a combustion leak now, if not the original problem. Its probably going to be a pain to nail down though.

You would have to decide which route to go, based on the condition of the engine. Has it been maintained well? Any other issues? IMO you are kinda in the borderline area.... 170k miles, engine is not worn out, but getting up there. On the other hand, a used engine is always a gamble.. you dont know the history on it.

Get an accurate diagnosis first. You might need to find a good shop and even have to pay a fee to get it accurately diagnosed, as it could take a bit of time to do; unless you have the resources listed above.

If it has combustion leak, get a price for a head gasket job, and ask what it would cost if you need a new head as well. Make sure that the head is checked out as well and planed if needed.

No easy answer here, sorry.

Response From msaeger

Wasn't trying to withhold info I didn't really realize it was leaking until after I replaced the stat then when I figured out there was a leak I took it to a mechanic.

I had one place tell me they could send in a coolant or oil sample and have it tested do you think that would help?

A new head says it's 450 at orilley's would it be a good investment to just replace the head even if the old one isn't warped so all of those parts would be new?

Not really sure the condition of the engine otherwise. All I have done engine wise is get the oil changed. It runs fine even now.

Response From DanD

If this does turn out to be a head gasket issue and after the head is removed. Have the original head pressure tested and if good resurfaced. There's no sense in replacing a good cylinder head.
As for checking for combustion gases in the cooling system, I've used the block test fluid with good resultants.

As long as the test fluid does not become contaminated with anti freeze during the test; you can trust it.
If the blue fluid turns any form of light green to yellow; there's combustion gases in the cooling system.
Here's a link to a vid showing the block tester in use.

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

I have owned many of those kits through the years and I have tried and tried to get accurate results, even testing cars with a known leak and never gotten any conclusive results from one of them unless it was so obvious it was pouring out the tailpipe.

One trick I have tried though and it worked is to attach a latex glove tightly around the radiator filler and run the engine to see if it inflates to indicate gases getting into the system.

Response From GC

Nice. Im with you HT, I have a block tester kit, but its hit and miss. I throw the pressure gauge on and do the test you mentioned with the glove. But im gonna use that one when im not near my pressure kit.

Response From DanD

Not sure why you guys are having a hard time with the block test kit?
You don't have to see the fluid turn piss yellow, before you know there's CO in the cooling system.
Once I get even the slightest change in colour; I get out the gas analyzer and confirm it.
The funny thing is the gas analyzer will show just as much if not more HC?
I still don't like using the analyzer that close to that much liquid; so I usually put an empty 1 gallon container between the coolant opening and the gas probe. That at least gives me an air space if the rad decides to puke.

Dan.

Response From GC

Ive found that alot of times, I get no response from liquid unless i catch it when it burps out a bubble. Some systems it works like a charm. Other times I end up sucking coolant up into the tube, and it just irritates me. I dont have a gas analyzer, or i would just go to that right away. I dont have anything against the block test kits, just not very comfortable basing a diagnosis on it. The times that Ive had it work to the point ive felt confident in the diagnosis, its also been apparent from other tests/symptoms. I still have one and use it fairly often though. I just like to get an extra verification instead of solely on the magic blue liquid. Just my inexperienced opinion though. We all have different methods, and usually the one(s) we like work well for us. None are wrong, just different.

Response From DanD

Nicely put.

Thanks for the reply.

Dan.

Response From GC

How has it been since the you tightened that clamp? Using coolant? Overheat? Running cold? Im assuming your speaking of getting coolant tested for oil contamination and vice versa. IMO I wouldnt do that just yet.

If your having trouble nailing this down, Id take it to a shop that has lots of expensive tools for diagnosing these things. Could still be a simple issue, and Im sure you dont want to jump into head work without knowing for sure.

BTW wasnt accusing you of withholding info, just a piece of the puzzle that changes things.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what you would expect that to tell you. The engine isn't generating enough heat. the only way you can change that is keeping it in the engine longer with a higher temp thermostat.

If you are looking for hydrocarbons in the coolant, that needs to be done while the engine is running. It's a gas and it will dissipate quickly.

Response From msaeger

I put the thermostat in because it's 7 bucks it's up to -2 now probably should have waited until it was warmer but it's in. Small spring end goes into the engine right?

Now I with it at idle I get heat in the car and the temp gauge is about 1/3 up from the cold side.

The lower hose which is on the thermostat is cold the upper hose is a slightly warm.

Now that I think about it is there anything telling the engine temp? It looks like the temp gauge in the car is getting the signal from a sensor on the thermostat housing so if the thermostat was stuck closed the temp gauge would read cold or is that not how it works?

Response From msaeger

I drove 10 miles and when I checked the lower hose it is still cold and the upper was just warm. There is pressure now if I try and take the radiator cap off now.
The temp gauge was about in the middle like before. I have not seen the fans come on.

Hopefully I didn't put the thermostat in wrong or something. Maybe it's so cold outside it doesn't need to open?

Response From Hammer Time

The engine would have overheated by now if the stat was installed wrong. What temp stat did you use?

Response From msaeger

This is the one it says 170 degrees online.


link deleted ....................... not allowed

Response From Hammer Time

Well, there's most of your problem. You put a cold thermostat in it. You're telling the engine to run cooler. I would put at least a 180 degree or maybe even a 195 for the winter.

Response From DanD

Hammer I just looked up the thermostat for this vehicle and it calls for a 170. I know that seems cold but that's what the manufacturer wants?

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

I looked it up too. The 180 is optional for that car. That why I suggested winter only for the 195. If the engine just isn't getting hot enough a hotter thermostat is about the only option he has. He's in an extremely cold environment.

Response From Discretesignals


When driving down the road the engine will get hot enough to generate enough heat to heat the car. If stopped it quickly cools down. It will never warm up when at idle.

Would a thermostat cause that kind of symptom? If too low of a rated thermostat was installed, would it not even try to blow hot air while cruising?

Response From Hammer Time

I don't see any other safe way of generating more heat. It's below zero there.

Response From Discretesignals

I'd get one of those spill free funnels and watch what is going on while the engine is running. See if you have flow going on or trapped air. Wouldn't hurt to pressurize the system to check for leaks and test or replace the radiator cap also.


Response From Hammer Time

Since the thermostat is in the return hose, that funnel would likely just fill up and overflow.

If the lack of heat was due to poor circulation or air pockets in the system, that would eventually lead to overheating and boil over. He said the engine cools down quickly at idle. It sounds like it's just running too cold for the environment.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You would think though if the thermostat was opening at lower temps, the heater would die out at cruising speed due to ram air through the radiator. Doesn't make sense to have heat while driving and no heat at idle unless you have low coolant level or air trapped in the core. If the T stat was opening too soon, the engine still should reach operating temps when stopped and revving the engine (with cooling fans off), but soon as you get some ram air through the radiator, you lose operating temps.

Response From Hammer Time

The engine is going to generate more heat at higher RPMs. He never tried to rev it up in Park as I suspect he would get the same result.

Response From Discretesignals

Either way, he needs to get one of those funnels. I love my coolant vacuum lift, but that funnel sure does come in handy. Especially if your DIY doing your own coolant servicing.

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, I have both

Response From msaeger

That's the only one they had.

The way it is now my hose from the radiator to the thermostat is cold and the one on the other side is lukewarm so the thermostat must be closed then right?

Response From GC

Do you have an infrared thermometer to get an actual temperature reading from the thermostat housing? If started cold does the upper rad hose gradually warm up or does it stay cool and then warm up all at once when the tstat opens? Does your cooling fan run all the time?

Response From msaeger

I will check if the fans run. I can check the temp with the IR thermometer too.

The upper hose stays cool unless I drive the car then it gets warm but not as hot as it should be I could hold my hand on there all day.

Response From Hammer Time

I would get the system pressure flushed, including the heater core specifically and then replace the thermostat. It sounds like you may have a combination of a partially restricted heater core and a thermostat opening too soon.

Response From DanD

X2 with everything said above and I'll also suggest replacing the radiator cap with the proper style and pressure rating.

even after driving on the highway I can remove the radiator cap and there is no pressure

Dan.