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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • CSF Radiator
    CSF Radiator
  • Gates
    Gates
  • Motormite
    Motormite
  • Mr Gasket
    Mr Gasket
  • Stant
    Stant

Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Radiator Caps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Stant, ACDelco, Gates
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Oldsmobile Replacement Radiator Cap Parts
Stant
1998 Oldsmobile Bravada Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 4.3L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-563AE79    10330  New

5096104AA , DRS29 , DRS-29 , 7B0121321C , RSP30 , 4596198 , 7716 , 703-1701 , 644130 , 7031701 , 33062 , 1501-16 , 31518 , 82830 , 11330 , ST16 , 10330 , RSP-30 , 5103476AA

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Stant
1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.5L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4F56E0F    10230  New

RS53 , RS-43 , 4592098 , 5310686 , RC-44 , 6410691 , RS61 , RS-17A , RR-19 , 3EG175 , 131 , T16 , WR18 , 7B0121321C , RS-17B , RS-80 , 94222052 , RS44 , 133-9001 , RA-20 , RC-34 , 25661994 , RR17 , ZZM115205 , F4TZ 8100 B , RR-30 , 5096104AA , 94021623 , 1338060 , RS-44 , F1VY8100B , RS-53 , WC-18 , RR30 , RS17B , BC17 , RS17 , RC17 , 19045-PH7-003 , 22583309 , RR20 , FIVH8100BA , RR31 , C44995 , 9441062570 , RR-20 , WR17 , 9-21450-610-0 , ER-17 , RS80 , RS-53A , F4TZ8100B , 25060228 , RS-47A , RC19 , 1339001 , DR29 , 12339878 , RS17A , RC44 , RS-61 , WR-17 , CAC4568 , BR17 , 46008 , RS-90 , 25697430 , RS-64 , 7016 , A17 , RC-26 , SP19 , 04596444AA , 9214506100 , 4596444AA , S17 , 11 53 1 486 703 , 19045PH7003 , 7031698 , 133-8060 , M-17 , RS-17 , RR-18 , RS-40 , 125 , F1VY 8100 B , BC-17 , RR-31 , L95-4012 , DR17 , RC18 , CCC6707 , RC 81 , RS-34 , 6410665 , 620203 , 33031 , ZZM1-15-205 , RC15 , F47H 8100 AB , ER-18 , RS47A , RR18 , 944 106 257 00 , 620204 , 11531486703 , EAC4192 , M17 , WC-17 , RC34 , 3-M-17 , RS-83 , L95-4020 , 52006926 , 11171100848 , 15977333 , 9214506101 , RA20 , 9-21450-610-1 , 31528 , 3M17 , EAC3702 , RC26 , RS35 , RS83 , R31 , 82930 , RC95 , RS40 , RC33 , 52028892AA , 52014479AA , 8-94228-748-1 , RC 95 , RS60 , 8942287481 , 133-8086 , RS90 , 4693175 , 94222051 , 46032 , 5214500021 , WR-18 , RC-17 , 944 106 257 0 , 3-EG-175 , RS34 , ER18 , WA-17 , 130 , 861050 , JLM9652 , 4596198 , 53-10686 , RS53A , RC81 , 703-1698 , 53-10678 , RC-18 , RS43 , 1338086 , 94410625700 , 46009 , RR-17 , 05086226AA , ER-28 , 5352594 , RC20 , RS-60 , DR-17 , 94026437 , RR19 , 15075565 , E9DZ 8100 A , 94022635 , RC82 , DR-29 , RS-51 , 12R7 , 5310678 , RA-17 , 05278697AA , 126 , L954020 , R-31 , ER17 , 5086226AA , WC18 , 6410160 , RC 82 , E9DZ8100A , ER28 , CAC5095 , 10230 , RC-33 , WC17 , 5191233AA , FIVH 8100 BA , RC-19 , 119 , 5-21450-002-1 , R-30 , RS-35 , 94228748 , WA17 , RC-20 , SP-19 , RS64 , 94250629 , F47H8100AB , RC-15 , 17111468060 , 04693175AA , 5278697AA , RS51 , BR-17 , ST-16 , 5103476AA , 94250633 , RC29 , A-17 , RC-29 , 12474637 , 6410962 , RA17 , 8315764 , L954012 , R30

Qty:
$5.88
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474
Stant
1956 Oldsmobile Deluxe 88 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.3L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-2F3E00D    10328  New

ST-7 , WF-15 , S9 , SP9 , SP-9 , BR15P , 31508 , RC-101 , 620205 , ESR-15 , 3S15 , 12R32S , BSC-15 , ESR15 , PA7 , 5300389 , DRS9 , PA-7 , ESR-9 , 7031460 , ESP9 , BSC9 , RS33 , WF15 , DRS-9 , RC101 , RP-9 , RSP28 , 3-EF-15 , BR-9P , 703-1460 , S-9 , 46013 , BSC15 , BR9P , RP9 , SPT9 , 53-00389 , BR-15P , RSP-9 , PL7 , 3EF15 , SPT-9 , DRS-15 , WD-7 , 82828 , ST7 , RSP-28 , SP15 , B2AZ8100A , 53-00215 , 3-S-15 , 3-EG-15 , SP-15 , DRS9L , DRS-9L , 33060 , 3EG15 , 46040 , WD7 , 5300215 , 7707 , RSP9 , DRS15 , RL9 , 861850 , RS-33 , PL-7 , ESR9 , BSC-9 , B2AZ 8100 A , ESP-9 , SR9 , SR-9 , RL-9

Qty:
$12.40
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 7 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1956 - Oldsmobile Deluxe 88 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 324 5310
Stant
1956 Oldsmobile 88 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-226B9C3    10228  New

E2NN 8100 AA , WA-7 , BR15 , 46006 , 77512 , 31526 , S-9 , ER26 , DR-15 , RS1 , 2034259 , 6665383 , 6666606 , ER-26 , 1330034 , WC7 , ER-9 , WR-9 , RA-7 , WC15 , RS30 , 77508 , RR9 , WC-9 , 53-10645 , WR-15 , 10228 , 80889R91 , ER-15 , ER9 , 21450097 , DR15 , 6515568 , R28 , 6646545 , RA-18 , RS-1 , 6511985 , ER23 , D3HZ 8100 A , 94037865 , RS-56 , RS54 , E6HZ8100D , 620201 , 7031696 , RA7 , RS68 , RS-30 , P-9 , M-15 , RC16 , RS-54 , BR-9 , 133-8037 , 46030 , ER15 , BC-9 , 3-M-15 , RA18 , BC-15 , RR-24 , 393229R91 , RS9 , 33029 , E6HT 8100 AA , 12R32 , 5310710 , P-15 , 94048391 , 3-EE-15 , RS-68 , 703-1696 , 850986 , RC35 , 133-9000 , RR24 , M-9 , E6HZ8100B , RC-9 , 5310736 , BC15 , BR9 , A-7 , E6HZ 8100 D , 6630156 , T7 , RC-1 , B2AZ 8100 F , RC1 , BC9 , 180224M91 , 82928 , 6410642 , 378289R92 , M9 , RC38 , 77-508 , E0HZ8100A , P9 , E2NN8100AA , RS56 , RR-9 , E0HZ 8100 A , E8TH 8100 BA , RC-16 , RR28 , 53-10710 , 133-0034 , A7 , 850549 , B2AZ8100F , 77-512 , DR-9 , 46026 , 3M9 , 1338037 , 6410878 , E6HT8100AA , RC9 , ER-23 , M15 , T-7 , WC-7 , S9 , RC-35 , 53-10736 , RC-38 , WC9 , 3EE15 , 648360 , 3-M-9 , BR-15 , E8TH8100BA , A21389 , RS-9 , RR-28 , WA7 , P15 , 3M15 , WR15 , 5310645 , 128 , 370871R91 , WC-15 , A59861 , DR9 , 7007 , WR9 , R-28 , D3HZ8100A , 1339000

Qty:
$5.18
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 7 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1956 - Oldsmobile 88 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 324 5310
Stant
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 4.0L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-221DFC4    10334  New

7031737 , 459 6198 , 33066 , ST-18 , 703-1737 , 4596198 , 31535 , ST18

Qty:
$11.86
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 18 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora V 8 Cyl 4.0L 244 -
Stant
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.5L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-5DDEB03    10234  New

55111361AA , RC 104 , 7031725 , 46044 , 55116897AA , RC 86 , 10233950 , 52027793 , 703-1725 , 25713159 , 12R10 , 10402081 , 55116901AA , 25730221 , 92177005 , T18 , RC 24 , 52079691AA , 52028860AB , RR-34 , 52028974AA , 10234 , 5103533AA , RC 50 , 33043 , 10283371 , 10219587 , 10316828 , 7018 , RC50 , RC86 , RC104 , 4546255 , 31525 , 52079799AA , RC24 , RR34 , T-18 , 52028860AA

Qty:
$5.28
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 18 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Oldsmobile Aurora V 6 Cyl 3.5L 214 -
Stant
1984 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-1A75F14    10331  New

L95-5078 , ESP18 , WD-17 , 620207 , RL43 , RL21 , BSC17 , 703-1702 , RC115 , 46016 , RSP19 , ESP-17 , 46015 , RP19 , RSP18 , RC-115 , RP17 , RSP-17 , L955078 , 1508-16 , 7816 , 82830 , SPT-17 , 10331 , 5300298 , RL17 , 46063 , 3-EG-17 , BR-17P , ESP-18 , RSP-30 , WF-17 , RSP30 , DRS-17L , 31516 , 82831 , 11331 , 53-00298 , DRS29 , 7B0121321A , 33063 , BSC-17 , PL17 , 3EG17 , PL-17 , WD17 , 7B0121321 , 3-S-17 , ESP17 , L95-5060 , RSP17 , 644128 , RSP-18 , SPT17 , ST16V , DRS17L , DRS-29 , 3EF17 , 3-EF-17 , RP-19 , 861854 , RL-42 , ESR-17 , RSP20 , 7031702 , 46064 , RSP-19 , DRS17 , RP-17 , 3S17 , WF17 , RSP-31 , RSP31 , RSP-20 , RL42 , DRS-17 , BR17P , L955060 , RL-17 , ESR17 , RL-43 , RL-21

Qty:
$11.43
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Stant
1979 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.6L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-21E3E1F    10231  New

991516 , 3673891 , 17111152062 , 15064718 , 10036879 , 10409635 , E3SZ8100A , E6LY8100A , 8-06410-785-0 , CAC3674 , D7AZ 8100 A , 703-1699 , D5VY 8100 A , E8DZ8100A , 443865C2 , E8DZ 8100 A , E6DZ8100A , 2998982 , E6DZ 8100 A , RS-64 , 0005010215 , RC54 , D5VY8100A , 4039936 , 3781830 , 06410685 , RC 96 , E2FZ8100A , E1FZ 8100 A , RC 54 , 7616 , 31523 , D7AZ8100A , 6410785 , E6LH8100AA , 10049770 , EIFZ 8100 A , E1FZ8100A , 7B0121321 , 4266968 , 25730158 , 8064107850 , RC96 , A1235010115 , 1235010015 , 55111074AA , 15953298 , RC49 , 1497193 , T-10 , 8-15982-188-0 , 06410487 , 4140464 , 6410985 , A 1235010015 , E3SZ 8100 A , E6DZ 8100 B , 414 0464 , 3412851 , A170241 , E6LH 8100 AA , 6410456 , E6LY 8100 A , 4677493AA , 17 11 1 152 070 , E35Z 8100 A , RC27 , J5352954 , GRC156 , 55111074AB , 7B0121321A , 82931 , 4682828 , A 0005010215 , 55111 074AA , RC-27 , 5900584 , 8159821880 , RC36 , 52079880AA , A0005010215 , D6AZ8100A , 10231 , GRC110 , A 1235010115 , RS64 , A 0005010015 , D6AZ 8100 A , 14099684 , 55111 074AB , 8064104270 , GRC181 , 17111151700 , 09975778 , 7031699 , A1235010015 , A0005010015 , 33042 , RC 49 , RR31 , E2FZ 8100 A , 644131 , T16V , J590 0584 , 15982188 , 6410640 , 6410427 , 4401493 , E6DZ8100B , 426 6441 , 3574154 , 5017 468AA , 46043 , EIFZ8100A , J5358177 , 1235010115 , 17 11 1 151 700 , 468 2828 , 10283897 , 321121321B , T10 , RC-36 , 54819976254 , RR-31 , RC 97 , 5017468AA , 17111152070 , 4266441 , RC97 , 8-06410-427-0 , 426 6968 , 0005010015 , 6410570 , 06410782 , 5352954 , 8942287480 , J5900584 , E35Z8100A

Qty:
$5.80
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 6.6L 403 -
Stant
1960 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.5L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-3D122CE    10329  New

RC-119 , 82829 , RC119 , RL-44 , 3S16 , 5300314 , 3EG16 , ESR13 , 620206 , CSP-12 , L955094 , C1UZ 8100 A , SPT-12 , 53-00231 , 46062 , ESP-19 , BSC-12 , 861855 , RL44 , 46014 , 53-00363 , RSP16 , 53-00306 , 53-00314 , RL12 , 10329 , 53-00348 , 703-1700 , 31511 , ESP19 , RSP-22 , DRS-16 , RSP-12 , 53-00223 , SPT-16 , ESR-13 , 7713 , 5300280 , 3-S-12 , ESP12 , RC109 , RSP29 , WF-16 , SR-12 , DRS13 , S12 , SP-13 , RP-16 , 11329 , CSP12 , DRS16 , BR13P , RL14 , 7031700 , 12R5S , 5300355 , L95-5051 , L955086 , 5300363 , ESR-12 , CSP13 , RSP-29 , RSP22 , DRS-13 , L955051 , SPT12 , 5300231 , RS-512 , 5300348 , RC-109 , ST13 , DRS-16L , BSC13 , 3-EF-16 , 53-00355 , CSP-13 , 33061 , SPT16 , 3S13 , DRS16L , BSC12 , RSP-21 , ESR-16 , RSP12 , BR-12P , ESR12 , DRS12 , 5300306 , S-12 , BR-16P , ESR16 , BR-13P , 3S12 , 3-S-16 , RSP-16 , RSP21 , DRS-12 , 53-00165 , RL-41 , BSC-13 , 5300165 , RC106 , 46017 , RC-106 , 3-S-13 , BR12P , 3EF16 , L95-5094 , ESP-12 , BR16P , 3-EG-16 , SP13 , SP-12 , ST-13 , 644129 , SP12 , WF16 , RP16 , RL41 , RS512 , RL-12 , 861852 , RL-14 , PL-14 , L95-5086 , 5300223 , C1UZ8100A , PL14 , SR12 , 53-00280

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi W/O Factory Inst. A.C.; W/O H.D. Rad.
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1960 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 6.5L 394 6458
Stant
1960 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.5L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-563AE79    10330  New

5096104AA , DRS29 , DRS-29 , 7B0121321C , RSP30 , 4596198 , 7716 , 703-1701 , 644130 , 7031701 , 33062 , 1501-16 , 31518 , 82830 , 11330 , ST16 , 10330 , RSP-30 , 5103476AA

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi W/Factory Inst. A.C.; W/H.D. Rad.
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1960 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 6.5L 394 6458
Stant
1960 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.5L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-415170A    10229  New

D2VY 8K103 A , 3M12 , C23860 , 19045-692-003 , ER12 , D2VY8100A , 3EG165 , 129 , 2143089994 , WC-14 , 19045634003 , WR16 , MB008101 , 2143089906 , 8871-15-205 , A57167 , A61784 , RC12 , 21430-10600 , BC12 , 77-513 , WA14 , 19045692003 , RS-77 , 21430M0200 , RS512A , 620202 , 127 , 1640142010 , J3239375 , 9281062570 , 1686107 , RS77 , MB221633 , ZZL015205 , D2VY8K103A , 229623921 , 299623921 , 164013601172 , 2143089900 , 1640760010 , 1640134010 , 1338045 , RC19 , RC45 , 16401-40120 , 1640160040 , RS-50A , WC14 , 171111200 , 6682274 , ZZL0-15-205 , 928 106 257 03 , 16401-42010 , 1640150010 , 16401-23070 , RS-16 , 312121321E , WA-14 , 133-8045 , RS16 , 21430U9600 , 0361865 , D8RZ8100A , 7701018380 , 82929 , DR16 , 1640123070 , DR-12 , T13 , 21430J6200 , P12 , S-12 , 2533014201 , RS50 , 21430-89907 , 130660 , P13 , RS6 , 16401-41020 , M-13 , E5TZ 8100 A , 16401-50010 , 21430-89900 , RA-14 , 17111100848 , CP-12 , 2143089902 , 25330-14201 , E7RY8100A , MB007571 , 1570172030 , 2143089990MP , 17111262051 , E9RY8100A , U95-4110 , 1640120010 , RS-40 , 2993-23-921 , 16401-36011 , 533014202 , 46010 , 299323921 , DR12 , 0766-15-205 , E2DZ 8100 A , 745124020 , 2143089905 , 16401-50010-73 , WC12 , 21430-89905 , SE0115205 , WR-16 , 076615205 , 1330143 , PA14 , 036-1865 , 3M13 , 2143089901 , 1640160010 , BR-13 , BR-16 , 123 , R-29 , 3M16 , M13 , RA-19 , 10229 , 2981-15-205 , 5364692 , 16401-36011-72 , C9AZ 8100 A , D8RZ 8100 A , 703-1697 , BC13 , RC9 , 645012012 , 19045-PA0-014 , ER27 , CP12 , 3241241 , DR-31 , 53-10694 , 21430-89990-MP , 048815205 , 33030 , A14 , J3246241 , D7ZZ 8100 A , P-13 , RS-32 , 21430U0100 , RS12A , ER-16 , E5TZ8100A , CH10427 , 2296-23-921 , 92810625703 , L954039 , 21430-C0500 , MB007900 , 2996-23-921 , RR22 , PA-14 , 645012051 , E9TZ8100A , RS-52 , 7031697 , RS-512A , D2RY8100B , 83502502 , 46031 , 3220313 , DR-16 , E7RY-8100-A , 6635784 , 7257668 , 31527 , 083915350 , 1640141020 , 025121321 , 1640140120 , L95-4004 , 133-8052 , 6410457 , 25330-11415 , 17111712669 , WC-16 , 12R5 , S12 , 663240 , 3187167 , 2143089907 , RC-22 , BC-13 , RR-29 , 16401-34010 , 21430-M0200 , 133-8078 , F2UZ8K103A , CP-13 , U954110 , ER16 , 21430-89902 , M-16 , E9RY 8100 A , 21430C0500 , E5TH8100A , RS50A , WR12 , RS41 , RC-16 , 21430-89901 , MA152550 , D7ZZ8100A , P-12 , BR-12 , 912609 , DR-13 , 7013 , RS-12A , RC6 , D27Z8100A , ER-27 , 3-M-12 , 745153010 , BR13 , 21430-89906 , RR12 , S16 , RC-12 , 2143010600 , RS-6 , DR13 , 53-10660 , 19045PA0014 , 1640141021 , WC13 , 1502172631 , WR-12 , 0839-15-350 , 0488-15-205 , 022251255 , 46007 , 16401-41021 , ER-13 , 17110152374 , 21430-U9600 , 16401-50010-72 , R29 , 21430-89994 , 16401-20010 , RA14 , MB007298 , 17 11 1 712 492 , 028121453 , RC16 , RS62 , 028 121 453 , 887115205 , 77513 , 1610771 , RC22 , D1TZ8100A , 25060143 , RR-22 , 00861125 , D2VY 8100 A , 164015001073 , 16401-60040 , 33000866 , D27Z 8100 A , 1640141010 , 16401-41010 , RC-19 , 3-EG-165 , J3239819 , RC-6 , 3-M-16 , RS-62 , M16 , 164015001072 , CP13 , 6673313 , RS40 , 16401-60010 , RR29 , SE01-15-205 , RC-45 , 2239643 , A-14 , 1338052 , RS-50 , 1640136011 , ER-19 , MB721633 , 21430-U0100 , 3-M-13 , RS52 , L954004 , C9ZZ 8100 A , M-12 , 1338078 , R12 , BR16 , 1326012 , 1640136010 , 133-0143 , ER-12 , 5310660 , BR12 , 16407-60010 , 3239375 , WC-13 , E2DZ8100A , 928 106 257 0 , 645012021 , 2143089990 , WC-12 , T-13 , 5310694 , 21430-J6200 , ER13 , 6410292 , RC-9 , D2RY 8100 B , MB007570 , 17 11 0 152 374 , D1TZ 8100 A , D2TZ8100A , 6646678 , RS32 , RS-41 , L95-4039 , WC16 , 66-3240 , ER19 , RA19 , RR16 , 16401-36010 , 298115205 , RR-12 , E5TH 8100 A , M12 , 87749607 , RR-16 , 2533011415 , D2TZ 8100 A , C9ZZ8100A , RS12 , RS-12 , 21430-89990 , E9TZ 8100 A , C9AZ8100A , BC-12 , DR31 , 17111712492

Qty:
$5.24
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi W/O Factory Inst. A.C.; W/O H.D. Rad.
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1960 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 6.5L 394 6458
Stant
1960 Oldsmobile 98 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 6.5L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4F56E0F    10230  New

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Qty:
$5.88
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi W/Factory Inst. A.C.; W/H.D. Rad.
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1960 - Oldsmobile 98 V 8 Cyl 6.5L 394 6458
ACDelco
1985 Oldsmobile Calais Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    W0133-1681872  New

Qty:
$22.64
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Oldsmobile Calais
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    W0133-1681872  New

Qty:
$22.64
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Gold (Professional)
  • ; Excludes Dex-Cool Label
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Silhouette
ACDelco
1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.8L ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    W0133-1681872  New

Qty:
$22.64
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Gold (Professional)
  • ; with Turning Ears
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-33D4733    W0133-1690827  New

Qty:
$21.73
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Gates
2003 Oldsmobile Bravada Radiator Cap Gates

P311-229412C    W0133-1690827  New

Qty:
$28.40
Gates Radiator Cap
  • OE Type
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Alero Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-29ED154    W0133-1685730  New

Qty:
$23.20
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Location-Reservoir
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Alero Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-29ED154    W0133-1685730  New

Qty:
$23.20
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Gold (Professional)
  • ; Location-Reservoir
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-47366E6    W0133-1686438  New

Qty:
$26.68
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Location-Reservoir
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Radiator Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cooling Problem

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From chris2345 on 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cooling Problem

Hello, this is my first time posting on these forums.

I have a 1998 Oldmobile Cutlass with a 3.1 liter engine 6 cyllinder with 75,000 miles on it. About a year ago I had to replace the head gasket because it blew. (when it was delivered to me by my uncle, he drove it up here without the radiator cap....he forgot to put it back on. I think thats what might of caused it to blow)

A couple weeks ago my car overheated to the point where it actually boiled over, this happened I believe twice. Since then my dad and I have done several things to try and remedy the issue but havn't been successful. We first tried replacing the thermostat, this didnt seem to do anything because the car still ran too hot, it didnt overheat but it would run about 3/4 on the gauge. We then checked to make sure the fans were kicking in, which they were and we also tried bleeding the system. Its a strange car because theres only one bleeder on top and the bleeder thats normally on the bottom is supposed to bleed itself, which im guessing its working because you can hear air coming out of it when the car is too hot and starts to boil.

From there we tried flushing the radiator and engine / heater core thinking there might be a clog, the antifreeze that came out didnt have any oil in it and there wasnt any coolant in the oil either, so im hoping that its not a head gasket. We refilled the system after flushing it and it was a little better but still got hot.

Finally i was reading about how coolant will boil at a lower temperature if there isnt enough pressure or the radiator cap was bad. We replaced this which made a significant difference. The car was no longer getting as hot as it was and seemed to be fixed. However, ive now noticed that the car will run at normal temperatures for about 25 to 30 minutes and then it will slowly get hotter as time goes on, it goes from about 210 degrees up to 225, especially if i have the air condition on. But this is only after the car has already been running for about 30 minutes like i said. By the time i get home the car is now at about 235 degrees to 240, and when i shut the car off i can hear it start boiling and the temperature will rise a little more then finally cool off. Often times i will see a little bit of coolant that has eited the radiator cap but not much at all. Ive checked all the hoses and they appear to be fine, none have collapsed and now im at a loss as to what can be wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Chris

PS: I thought about the possibility of the water pump being bad but when the car is running and we were testing it with the bleeder open it would push out antifreeze from the top bleeder when we rev'd the engine.




Links from other sites removed

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Its a strange car because theres only one bleeder on top and the bleeder thats normally on the bottom is supposed to bleed itself"

Say what?! Some radiators don't have drain plugs but you certainly wouldn't be bleeding air out from the bottom!

I think you should be checking for combustion gasses in cooling system and expect intake and head gaskets AGAIN and with all the overheating the parts should be sent out and checked for warpage and cracks as well as the block. Could be real trouble,

T

Response From chris2345

What i mean by the two bleeders is on my last car (same engine) there was a bleeder on the left of the engine near the resevoir and then a second bleeder on the right side near the thermostat housing. This car has a self bleeding line that runs from the thermostat housing to the bottle.

Im pretty sure its the head gaskets, unfortunatly I dont have the $300 or so to send them out and have them checked for cracks / warps. If I did, I think id rather have a different car lol. This engine is by far the most troublesome engine I have ever seen. Both cars the head gasket seems to blow about once a year, maybe once every two years on a rare occasion.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That little spout at the recovery tank is just a blow out port when pressures exceed the pressure cap's rating which would happen at boiling. Just there to direct the mess away from the rest of things.

When a system is drained for any reason you need to know it's full again. Some will give you a bleeder bolt/plug on engine side of the thermostat or up high to let air out. Some are really fussy and yes the idea is air go to recovery and only liquid returns. Over several cycles it would self purge but if too low to cool properly the overheating defeats that.

I've seen these engines do 300k like nothing and hear that they are constant gasket eaters.

Not sending heads out and manifold in this case is just playing Russian Roulette with all six bullets!

Diagnostics is mandatory to decide on doing gasket job or giving up for either another engine or another car IMO,

T

1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From workman1974 on 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

HI,

I have an 1998 Olds Aurora that is over heating and I can not find the problem. I have checked: The radiator fans work, the thermostat works, and the water looks like it is turn but did not open it up to check in detail. I did notice that the hose going to the water pump was cold, is that normal, and the other hose was hot, so the thermostat seems to open. I bought a cleaner to flush and clean the system but have not done it yet. I know it could be the head gasket but I see no leaks and it does not seem to lose any fluid? How can I check out for the head gasket? Thanks for all your help and input, Thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Lower hose cold is normal and upper warm/hot, normal. The other observations suggest thermostat and radiator are basically working - how well still unknown.

Ok: It's overheating so what are you noticing other than just the gauge? Don't allow it to overheat if at all possible. Is coolant level proper at recovery tank? This car may or may not have a cap on the radiator itself but it may not be full there. It should be totally full all the time there out of your sight of course. Heater might not blow heat is a clue that coolant level is low, full of air or air bubbles from overheating or from gasses getting into cooling system thru failed head gasket.

Some tests are: Pressure test cooling system, check that radiator is full even if removing a hose up high is the only way. From cold, feel pressure at upper hose (nothing when cold) and feel if it pressures up real quickly - before it even has time to warm up and that's a clue that gasses are getting into cooling system. It normally builds up pressure as it warms up but not right off the bat.

If the system never builds up pressure or loses it quickly from a normal temp when shut down then it might be leaking out of sight or burning it thru head gasket and small amounts at a time don't always show themselves.

Flushing wouldn't hurt but I don't think that's the whole problem just yet. Let me/us know what you find and again DON'T allow overheating as that's just insult to injury,

T

Response From workman1974 Top Rated Answer

HI Tom,

Thank you for all your input. I do not want it to overheat or try getting it that hot so I have been trying to be care with it so I do not warp a head or crack it. This car does not have a radiator cap, only on the recovery tank. Yes the fluid is fine. I had off the cap on the take to see if I would get any gas bubbles at idle, I did not notice any there but that does not mean gas in not getting in the system. I did notice after about 10 minutes I seen vapor or smoke coming out of the tank, not much and the gauge in the car was only about 150 so I was not sure what it was doing that for at that moment. I took it for a drive to get it to heat more fast and I return and had more pressure and fluid coming out of the recovery tank, maybe that cap is bad too not sure. I want to do a pressure test but do not know if I can with this system only having a screw cap on the recovery tank, I will go tomorrow and see if I can get a pressure tester for that car. I will also check on the top hose and see if the pressure builds up fast, thank you, I never had heard of that one. So tomorrow I will do more testing to see what it really is doing. Also do you or anyone know if "Alldatadiy" is a good site for diagrams, making repairs info, and codes for cars, is it worth the money, thanks again for all your help. Thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The guys here have assorted info so ask away with a new thread for different concerns. The All Data stuff is available thru them for a price - programs for all cars are expensive and I don't have direct access to them.

Libraries frequently do!

Pressure tester can be rented (free I think) from AutoZone or similar chain type parts stores.

It makes it tough when cars put the pressure cap on the recovery tank and more cars are doing that instead of on the radiator. It's fine but complicates how to know the rad is actually full itself or for burping out air when you do anything with the cooling system.

I'm concerned that you've noticed vapors at the recovery tank which is part of the pressure controlled system in this car. It shouldn't even be warm coolant over there in 10 minutes yet??

You do understand the concept of the recovery tanks - right? You know - they take air and whatever from the engine and radiator thru a small hose to the bottom of that tank which is supposed to only return liquid back when system cools, contracts and sucks it back - the idea is air out, liquid back all the time which means the rad and engine are supposed to always be free of air or any vapor. Air and or vapors will expand quickly and blow coolant in the way out to and up over the recovery tanks when things get messed up.

As you know air doesn't exchange heat worth a diddle so the engine overheats.

If it is a head gasket problem so be it. Best to minimize further damage and surely best to diagnose it right as it's a lot of $$ and effort to be wrong with that one!

Keep observing and see what a pressure test can find for you,

T

Response From workman1974

HI Tom,

OK, I check the upper hose cold had no pressure and then I started the car and run it for a few minutes and I could still squeeze the upper hose, I noticed it got a little harder but not much at all. I did the pressure test with a tester and gauge, the car says 15 psi so I had it full with fluid and tested at 15 psi, after about 6 minutes it did drop but only to 14 psi and then held there, which I thought it would lose more pressure. Is there a good way to check the water pump better, The belt is tight, the outside of the pump pulley turns, but I have not open it up. I am not sure what else to do now, I know a person that is a mechanic the will replace the head gasket cheaper at his home then at the garage he works at, so I do not know what to do right now, any suggestions now? thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's good news but inconclusive with the pressure test. Hoses will expand a bit and drop a pound so that doesn't mean a leak. Unfortunately you should only pressure it to the cap's rating and the pressures on combustion can be in the hundreds and need that much pressure to leak or only does it at a certain temp and some only leak one direction to cause as much hair loss as possible as you are finding out!

If you still have the pressure tester, put in on and start the engine. Watch it from cold go up - it will but not so fast as you noted by hand. NOW WATCH IT UP TO THE RATED PRESSURE AND DON'T LET IT EXCEED THAT. Realease pressure from the device carefully and let it go again if it continues to rise when alread warmed up then that does point to the head gasket. You must be careful as releasing pressure can cause coolant to flash boil and you don't want to get burned by that. Use judgment and if it continues to build up I'd call it a diagnosis for a bad head gasket.

For water pump: Without look at it's fins and seeing that they either don't spin for some reason or are corroded down to an inadequate amount it might behave at low speeds or only high speeds or something. That problem is rare and not the first place to suspect but you shouldn't just assume it works properly. If coolant can flow to radiator and return thru it cooler at lower hose it must be doing something. Also, heater would not work well if water pump wasn't pumping but that could be air in system also.

Then there's the sniffer or detection stuff for exhaust/combustion gasses in the coolant and reservior things that may help close in on the diag. Can you friend help you pin this down for you to speed up the process of blaming a head gasket or not? I hate to see you be without a car over this any longer than needed but also don't want to rush out on the headgasket diag without being pretty dang sure.

For now try again with the pressure tester but as I said don't let it exceed that 15lbs. It will normally it allowed and then some other weak link will have a problem - enough hair loss already - right?

Another thing is to look at the spark plugs. One or more might be very different than the others and then pressure tests thru plug hole or compression testing can help.

Lot's of this stuff is second nature for those of us who have worked on stuff for all these years and it's hard to pin quickly and I'm half brain dead sometimes and might be missing some suggestion! This is hands on forum work, not just point, click, copy and paste some universal textbook something.

See what else you can find or notice and let's see what we can nail down,

T

Response From workman1974

HI Tom,

I did the pressure test with the car running and the PSI kept raising, so really everything I have done leads to head gaskets. I researched a lot online and found the the threads in the block for the head bolts go bad for this car and can cause a leak as well, This takes a repair plug kit to fix that, so I am really thinking to have that done and repair the gasket while they are doing that. I really feel this is the problem from all the test and from all your help. Thank you for all your help and I will have this guy repair those things on it. I was told from his friend he would repair the head gaskets for $250 because he does this everyday at work so he can do it so good now and so much he must think about it in his sleep. I have never heard of any one to do it for that price, so I need to speak with him first but it sound and looks like it is very easy for my car. Not a lot of things to take of to get to it. So it is easy to unassemble and not take a lot of time. I will have to let you know what he tells me after I speak with him. thanks again for all your help, You have helped me a lot, thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

the diag is closing in isn't it? You've done well to get all the info you could on this. True - some cars have bolts known for breaking, one time use only (kind of self torqued with one stretch) and things that someone who does this a lot will know and allow it to be done right and be done with this.

There's one thing worse than needing this job is to rush to diagnose it and then find out it wasn't the problem at all!

Good luck with the fix,

T

Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From xdxbatmanxcx on Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

hi. i was reading your post. im having similar problems myself. i just put in a new thermostat and its working fine and it has a newer water pump just put on last year. my car keeps jumping up to temp's nearing the orange line which is bad. is it the head gaskets then? because i dont know of any reason my car would over heat. the fan's working the water pump is working. i was told it could have a bad seal so next weekend im gonna go have it looked at. but i do not understand why it gets hot. it has smoke coming out of the resivouir when i take the cap off so can you help me out with this?? i would greatly appreciate it.


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

For the moment seeing smoke/steam at reservoir is not conclusive with it running hot for reasons to be found still.

It must be known full of coolant first and foremost. Not just the reservoir but the radiator. Generally if heater works there's an adequate level of coolant for some info. If not dig in and determine whether there's air in the system. Head gaskets can add air as well as small leaks can leave a reservoir full or too full and suck air in thru the leak. Head gaskets can add combustion pressured vapor (essentially air) into cooling system and cause this. That can usually be detected by feeling upper rad hose from a cold start noting no pressure when cold and if pressure is felt quickly - like within a minute or two that's too fast and more testing needed.

I don't think this model has a radiator cap on the radiator which makes it difficult to know it's full. When no pressure is in system it may bubble at reservoir when squeezing upper hose for instance and should only move coolant - no air bubbles seen.

Seems like everything else works so it could also be a clogged radiator that just can't transfer heat well anymore. Flushing whole system can be very telling and good for it.

Again - run heater on full temp request and that's a good indicator of engine temp up to boiling where heat will quit (just trust me) - if no heat is available it's usually air with the symptoms you've posted,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok thank you both. i dont know much about cars thats why i figured id check around. i am gonna take it to a shop monday to see whats going on. i had it at a shop and they were supposed to flush it or w/e to get all air out but idk. and i did flush the system out tho when i put in a new thermostat because i put in some gook (idk how to spell the word) and i had to make sure all coolant was out before doing so. but i noticed you said something about the heat. i've noticed it will be hot for a minute then cold the next. the car has a .... idk info screen if you will.. that tells you low coolant low oil ect.. and it keeps sayin coolant even tho i put it in. i was told i gotta put in a code to get it to stop sayin low so that i can actually tell when its low but idk how to obtain this code. i do not have owner manual so i probably going to have to search the net. but everytime i turn the air onto defrost the a/c light comes on and i only can turn it off if i switch it to feet where the heat comes from.. and i have the temp set at 90 and it still goes from hot to cold. so are you saying there is still air?? and as for the nose bleed lol yeah my buddy said take the cap off let it run see if the air will come out like a burp lol. but i am gonna investigate this more. would anyone happen to know a price on how much it would cost if it were head gaskets? i have a friend who has a shop but b4 asking because we're not "that close" i wanna make sure i know an area of the price. thank you for you time i really do appreciate it alot

darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

darren: I'd bet right now the up front problem is air in the system and it still needs purging, burping and it isn't always that easy. Like Loren said you have to keep trying, jack up vehicle where you put coolant in can help a lot. There are purge plugs on some usually near thermostat. Sometimes taking a hose off and filling there first from low or empty.

The second the heater quits it's late (try to stop engine before that if temp needle or indication of too hot some other light or something) you have to shut it down till cool again as if things are ok (don't know that yet) it will draw coolant back from the fill/reservoir as it cools - just sitting there, engine off and coolant contracting. It can take several cycles of this - a whole case of brew, several cigars and a "Partridge in a Pear Tree" to get this right and something still may be wrong with it. That's why they have so many hair replacement clinics! There are special tools that really speed up filling a system - especially those with no cap on the radiator, using vacuum and a kit that switches over so only coolant goes in.

Sealer (gook, goo,gunky junk, stuff to seal, block seal....) in there is not a good sign and if you or someone did that to cover something up it usually doesn't last AND usually becomes it's own problem!

Back: As soon as heater quits it's either boiling or just has passed a bubble further along and if you are in fact boiling or too hot in engine you defeat all the purging you already did and start over! That's why we make the big bucks!

Here's a link I wrote with info here at this site + from others too on purging air - especially for DIYers.....

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...ling_Systems_P36410/

You probably have a light to indicate low coolant and it senses that on the radiator and you can't see if there's liquid or air there but it does.

The A/C light is possibly low refrigerant and not really anything to be involved in with just the cooling system and engine running temps right now. Take that as a separate issue completely as it's separate to this problem.

Head gaskets are frequently a maybe and makes it harder to know at first if filling the system is difficult to begin with like this car is. Gasses can be detected at the fill reservoir for exhaust/combustion gasses which is a serious clue of troubles.

If it's that much trouble for you then you should seek professional help and a diagnosis if it doesn't behave.

Cost of head gasket job will vary and needs a damage assessment before you can get a quote. Expect a lot of bucks if it needs those or tons of bucks if bad enough!

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

okay well im going to take it and see what they have to say. but i do appreciate all the help

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok guys i found out my problem.. my fan isnt working.. i replaced the fuse to start with and that worked.. BUT.. doing so a wire started smoking and stopped the fan.. so i replaced the wire and it worked.. BUT.. then another wire smoked.. when it was on the fan was running super speed.. the car was not even hot and the fan was flying.. i wanna assume the wires were not big enough gauge to hold the power it generated thats why they got to hot.. i also am not a mechanic but i am gonna assume that it was a rig job on whomever had the car and tried to fix the fan. but i think that it needs a switch or sensor to make the fan go slower and turn off.. because i noticed it wouldnt shut off.. so with all this being said do either of you have any suggestions?? tomor i am going to a shop but would like to hear from you guys before if possible.. thank you for your time


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If wiring has been altered you are going to have to see what doesn't look original. Fan working when not even called for could be that you have defroster, defog or something on - turn the climate controls off for testing or leave on heat only or vent only. Fans can be triggered with a defrost request.

Melted wire insulation! Ack! The motor may be drawing too much current or the gauge of wire really is under size. If splicing in new wire certainly try to get right gauge and color if at all possible. There could also be a relay that's burned, stuck causing fan to stay on.

With hacked wiring it opens the book for lots of possibilities. Keep things fused with proper amp fuses if any blow while working with this,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

will do i'm gonna have some stuff checked out today thanks for the help again tom much appreciation

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Darren; You replaced the thermostat because of the overheating problem? On some vehicles, it is very easy, and a very common mistake to install them backwards. Assuming that is not the problem, are you certain that you've bled all of the air out of the cooling system. Again, this can be a real pain. I've had to raise the front of a car up so high that it got a nose bleed. Seriously, though, it really can be a pain getting all of the air out. Head gaskets; It is a fairly easy test. You can take it to a shop that has a gas analyzer and have them 'sniff' the coolant reservoir for hydrocarbons. Or, most of the parts stores sell a chemical that will do the same. Changes from a blue color to yellow if exhaust gases are present.

Re:96 Ciera 3.1 Car sitting for a long time-first tune up?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Re:96 Ciera 3.1 Car sitting for a long time-first tune up?

Hey Guy's

I was just doing a search and it turns out i have the same situation, A friend of mine came across a 96 olds Ciera 4dr 3.1L w/ 60,000 mi owned by a little old lady that can't drive anymore, and only used to go to church, doc and store. but my friend has a suspended license so the car has been sitting outside in upstate NY. since last Jan, and who knows how long before that, My friend decided that since they can't drive it and her husband has several cars that i can take the veh at no charge. Apparently before it started sitting the granny replaced the tranny(hehe) along with a ton of other crap, my friend says there is a ticking noise from the engine when started, and thinks it just needs new gas, oil, and spark plugs. I am reluctant to take the car due to the fact i have to drive it 300 mi. to get it to my home. My friend tells me the car is in perfect condition, no rust, just needs a tune up, what do you guys think.

My main question is, being a car of this age and already getting a new transmission, and all other repairs made am i looking at a money pit? I know that oldsmobile had a faulty ground with that particular car which caused a problem with the transmissions, even though it has been replace will it happen again? When a car this old has such low miles doesn't that just mean it has been sitting a long time, according to my friend the car came enclosed w. a stack of receipts to show well maintenance of the car, but all and all isn't there such a thing as having too of low miles? Why does the engine tick? any solutions to clear that up? please don't tell me bad lifters.


And you guys seem like alright people, very friendly. I amazed how much time someone will take out to help someone they never met.

(edit) Changed subject line for your car........

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hi Ethan,

I moved your post so it should appear new and not part of the original you posted on. No problem.

Ok: Sounds like a deal and worth the trip to get it. 300 miles to drive and a car that sat outside in upstate NY for a year or more so expect this right off the bat....

1. Brakes will be rusted and may shake like crazy. Hope it's rear drums. You probably should be prepared to take it around the block a few times to see if it's safe for the ride home. Are you prepared to fix brakes on location if needed? If you feel like they'll make the trip go for it. It's about certain you will need new linings and rotors/turn or replace drums if drums later. DON'T EVEN TRY PARKING BRAKE TILL YOU GET HOME IF AT ALL POSSIBLE! Cable could be rusty and you don't want it stuck there - do it when you get home.

2. Ticking is probably just from sitting too long. Change oil right away at location. Use approved 5-30 cheap but rated for the car. Do yourself a favor and fill the new oil filter as best you can with oil before installing. That's a good idea anyway as the wait time for oil pressure is much faster to build up. Bet you money the ticking quits fairly quickly. Change again after about 500 miles with synthetic oil if you wish - I like the stuff.

3. Put a bottle of Techron fuel injector treatment AND a bottle of isopropyl formula (read labels- Heet - others brands use it) and fill with fresh gas.

4. Bring a gallon of anti-freeze and a gallon of water to mix it with just for the trip and use later if not needed for an emergency. It's cold in all of the Northest now and for a while expected. Washers will probably not work as the alcohol evaporates in the spray tips. Warm up engine and they should start working and get strong washer fluid in there as over time it does lose its freeze resistance. If you find it frozen in reservoir and can't really warm the whole car up in a garage just let the engine warm up and shut it down - engine heat will thaw it and then add cheapo methyl alcohol dry gas to windshield washer as that's the alcohol in the blue common stuff. Sounds stupid but lack of washers can be a real problem - if need be bring a spray bottle and reach out the window (sounds like I've done this before doesn't it?)

5. Wait for the tune-up till you get home too. This engine needs to be tilted forward to get to back plugs which could be too hard on location.

6. Battery/charging system. If it starts and charges go for it. If not try charging at location and check that alternator put out. Battery is almost certainly junk but may wait till home also. Prepare to replace it there though if trouble.

7. Check all fluids of course. Look at belt or anything out of control noticed. Tire pressure must be up and check the spare too!

8. Bring some tools. Socket set, screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire (coat hangar), vice grips and go for it.

**** Cool trick: If you have cooling system leak underway - cut the sprung end rubber gasket of radiator cap with wire cutters in a "V" so system can't build up pressure. Fill and go if slow enough with now zero pressure cap. Water pump might not have liked sitting so long. Easy one to do on that car.

Did I miss anything? Hit back - we are here,

T