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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Radiator Caps

  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Replacement Radiator Cap Parts
  • We stock Discount Radiator Cap OEM Parts
Genuine
2009 Jaguar Super V8 Radiator Cap Genuine

P311-21B31A6    New

Qty:
$10.61
Genuine Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Jaguar Super V8
Motorcraft
1996 Ford Contour Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-4F1D560    New

Qty:
$15.53
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • For use with original design Expansion Tank. If Expansion Tank has been replaced with a later design Tank - Use Cap Part Number 9S4Z 8100-B.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Ford Contour
Motorcraft
1997 Ford Contour Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-4F1D560    New

Qty:
$15.53
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Ford Contour
Motorcraft
2000 Ford Focus Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-4F1D560    New

Qty:
$15.53
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Expansion Tank Cap
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Ford Focus
Motorcraft
1997 Ford Contour Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-278DCC5    New

Qty:
$17.54
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Ford Contour
Motorcraft
1998 Ford Contour Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-278DCC5    New

Qty:
$17.54
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/1997-
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Ford Contour
Gates
2009 Mazda 3 Radiator Cap Gates

P311-123A889    New

Qty:
$14.87
Gates Radiator Cap
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 3
Eurospare
2009 Land Rover Range Rover Sport Radiator Cap Eurospare

P311-5D30D17    New

Qty:
$10.82
Eurospare Radiator Cap
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Eurospare
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Land Rover Range Rover Sport
Genuine
2003 Kia Rio Radiator Cap Genuine

P311-34DD3BB    New

Qty:
$23.62
Genuine Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Kia Rio
Calorstat
2009 Audi Q7 Radiator Cap Calorstat

P311-136D02D    New

Qty:
$11.10
Calorstat Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Calorstat
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Audi Q7
MTC
2015 Audi Q7 Radiator Cap MTC

P311-344A988    New

Qty:
$9.89
MTC Radiator Cap
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: MTC
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Audi Q7
ACDelco
1987 Buick Century Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Buick Century
ACDelco
2000 Buick LeSabre Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Excludes Dex-Cool Label
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Buick LeSabre
ACDelco
2002 Buick Rendezvous Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • Except Dex-Cool Label
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Buick Rendezvous
ACDelco
1996 Chevrolet K3500 Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • with Turning Ears
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chevrolet K3500
ACDelco
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • w/o Dex-Cool Label
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Pontiac Grand Prix
ACDelco
1997 Chevrolet C1500 Suburban Radiator Cap ACDelco

P311-317EAAC    New

Qty:
$12.81
ACDelco Radiator Cap
  • (Turning Ears)
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Chevrolet C1500 Suburban
Genuine
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap Genuine

P311-10A7F72    New

Qty:
$23.49
Genuine Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • @ Thermostat Housing
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mini Cooper
Rein
1974 Mercedes-Benz 230 Radiator Cap Rein

P311-044539A    New

Qty:
$8.94
Rein Radiator Cap
  • 1.4 Bar
  • 1.4 Bar
Brand: Rein
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Mercedes-Benz 230
Rein
2009 Mercedes-Benz SL600 Radiator Cap Rein

P311-044539A    New

Qty:
$8.94
Rein Radiator Cap
  • Charge Air Cooling, Location-Rear of Engine, For Intercooler
  • 1.4 Bar
Brand: Rein
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercedes-Benz SL600

Latest Radiator Cap Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

help with radiator cap

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From ChevyGuy on help with radiator cap

can i use a different radiator cap on a 1998 sunfire2.2? can i use the radiator cap from a 2002 cavalier?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

They are likely the same but I'd check. Both should be same type and rated at 15lbs. Are you sure they are OE for the vehicles?

T

Response From ChevyGuy

they are same lbs but the are different style

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No good. Get the right one,

T

Where is the radiator cap on a 2007 Ford Taurus?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Where is the radiator cap on a 2007 Ford Taurus?

Hi,

We have a 2007 Ford Taurus and we know how to find/check the oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, etc. But, we can't find a radiator cap in order to check the radiator fluid. We see the coolant reservoir, but that's all we see. Isn't there supposed to be a radiator cap too?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

The coolant reservoir is where you check the coolant level.

'68 Chevelle Radiator cap burst, engine stalls. Please Help!

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From aferrucc on '68 Chevelle Radiator cap burst, engine stalls. Please Help!

Hello,
I'm new to the site, I'm supposed to be going on a date tonight and would love to drive my toy but I'm afraid we'll be left stranded.
I have a '68 chevelle with a 307 v8.
While driving in the Arizona heat at a stop sign, my radiator cap purged most of my radiator fluid onto the ground(I have no reservoir) in a few seconds, then the car stalled and would not start for about 15min. This has only happened twice and about a year apart. Any idea what it could be? Maybe the radiator cap?
Thank You for your responses!

Response From Discretesignals

Did the engine overheat?

Response From aferrucc

First off, I really appreciate the response, any advice is appreciated.

I don't know for sure but I dont think it overheated because both times this has happened, I wasn't speeding around before-hand, I was idling at a stopsign. Even on the hottest days here in AZ she runs just fine with me punching the gas. I've checked the spark plugs and all have normal deposits. I'm going to check the timing tonight but it runs smooth at 700RPM idle. I have an electric fan and shroud and dont have AC.

Thank You!

Response From Discretesignals

What did the temperature gauge read when the radiator puked?

Response From aferrucc

I wish I knew, I was just so concerned with getting her off the road I didnt think to look.

If it were to overheat, would it really dump that much fluid out?? it pretty much emptied the radiator both times

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If the engine overheats and causes the coolant to boil, it will open the pressure release valve in the radiator cap and it will push lots of coolant out. You really need to find out what the coolant temperature is. Lots of things can cause an engine to overheat. Overheating can cause the engine to stall because the fuel vaporizes before it even reaches the combustion chamber or it boils the fuel right out of the carburetor. It can also cause the pistons to swell up so much they seize in their bores.

You can test the radiator cap with a coolant pressure tester that has a radiator cap adapter. The cap should have the pressure stamped on top of it to note the pressure it takes to open the relief valve. The cap has to be able to pressurize the coolant system to lower the boiling point of the coolant.

On the older cars that don't have a reservoir you don't want to fill the radiator to the top cause it will push fluid out when the coolant gets hot. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade it with an over flow tank.

Bleeding the Radiator

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From kingjim9 on Bleeding the Radiator

I'm replacing the radiator & lower radiator hose on my '94 Plymouth Acclaim. Whenever I'm done though i was wondring how do i bleed the air out from the system. Is it as simple as just running it for a while with the radiator cap off? If so how long do i let it run?

Thanks in advanced, Jim

Response From way2old

You can jack up the front end to where the radiator filler is the highest point in the system. Fill with coolant. Then run the vehicle until the temperature goes to normal or high normal temperature. Shut vehicle off and wait for a few minutes. Top off coolant and repeat. This should get the air out.

Response From dmac0923

ive also found it helpfull to put the cars HVAC on full heat. for two reasons. it allows coolant into the heater core and gets any trapped air out.

also the heat of the air coming out of the vents is a good gauge of air in the system.

if you have a constant HOT not warm flow of air out of the vents your good to go. you will see as your bleeding the system the air from the vents will be cold, warm, cold again, warm, HOT, warm, HOT..

and thats just the air pockets circulating through the system working their way to the highest point which should be your open radiator

Response From kingjim9 Top Rated Answer

but do I have the radiator cap off during this process?

Response From way2old

yes

Response From kingjim9

Thanks, I appreciate all your help. Its running good now.

Hey one mor thing... Do you think a recycling center would give me any deceant money for the old aluminum rad?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jumping in here: Metal are at an all time high. Ask at even junkyards as I see them advertizing for old household appliances and high prices for junk cars in any condition!

Copper, converters, aluminum and more are precious metal and worth $$ in many cases now,

T

1997 Pontiac Grand Prix - Running Hot

Showing 2 out of 21 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
Question From upmm019 on 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix - Running Hot

I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT - 3.8L - Non-Supercharged.

Car has about 120k on it but the motor was replaced recently.

Car is running hot and I'm not sure where to start in regards to getting it fixed.



Temp runs up to the red before the fans kick in at all. then when they do... the temp goes down to the blue. It never runs any cooler.

I just put about 2500 dollars into the car and really cannot afford to get much more into it.

I checked the coolant level and it's full.

the fans come on but not until it's super hot and when they do come on I cannot say they are super loud, etc.

What should these cars run at normally for a temp after being warmed up?

When should the Fans kick on?

any other suggestions?

The car is my sons and I've told him if it gets hot to just turn on the heat to bring it down. He has been doing that often so it's time to figure out the problem and have it repaired.

Any help would be wonderful...

Response From Hammer Time

One thing you will find with these cars is that they will run a lot hotter in slow traffic situations with the A/C off. That is normal and intentional. The fans aren't programmed to come on until approx 226 to 228 degrees if the A/C is not on. If the A/C is on, they run all the time.

Cruising on the highway, it should stay around 200 degrees..

Response From upmm019

My son drove it yesterday and we drove highway speeds in SD (65mph) and he had to turn the heat on to keep it cool.

that is not normal at least in my non-mechanical background.

The thermostat was replaced new with the new engine about a month ago along with the water pump.

I'm wondering what my next step is here.... new radiator? new temp control? new fans?

I can only tell you that last fall I took the car (before all of the engine troubles) to have the coolant flushed as it was all gummed up inside... Almost looked like cottage cheese at the top side. Not sure if the prior owner or someone mixed dexcool with regular antifreeze or what....

When I looked at the coolant the other day it was not like that but it did appear to be dirty looking but then again I don't think the garage put the true dexcool back into it... I think there is some new alternative to the dexcool and it certianly was not the green stuff.

my other car that has a v6, its not a pontiac but that vehicle never runs over 210... probably not a fair comparsion but I don't think it should get that hot but perhaps I'm totally wrong.....

Response From Hammer Time

Mixing coolants won't hurt anything at all. It just won't be a 5 year coolant any longer. As I stated before, these temps at low speeds would be completely normal but if you are seeing 220 or higher at highway speeds, then you have a problem. The sludge you spoke of concerns me. Dexcool will turn into a sludge if left in the system too long or if run with a leak that introduces air into the coolant. You will also make a total mess if you run straight water instead of coolant.

It sounds like your going to need another radiator and some serious flushing to the system when it's changed. Use some flush chemicals to loosen things up first and then flush it thoroughly. Remove the thermostat during flushing and then put it back in. You won't be able to save the radiator so plan on replacing that.

Response From upmm019

Ok, I ordered a replacement radiator.

In regards to flushing, do you purpose any specific type of solution that will loosen things up?

What is the benefit of removing the thermostat? Also, is there any danger in having it removed during this flush process?

I've heard that you can get air into the cooling system if not flushed right, is this true? If so, how can I avoid from having this happen?

Lastly, what is the best coolant to put back into the system. I know it had dexcool and then whent the motor was swapped out the garage put something else in that is not green and it is not dexcool either...

Response From Hammer Time

Just purchase a name brand flushing additive. Removing the thermostat first will allow the coolant to move around more and faster so it flushes better. Don't worry about the air until your refilling it with coolant. We use a vacuum fill to remove all air.

Response From upmm019

well, for those folks like me who do not have the vacuum filler... how does one refill and insure there is no air trapped in the sysem?

Response From Hammer Time

Look for a bleeder first. If it doesn't have one, then fill it, close the system, drive it around the block and run it until the fans come on. Shut it off and let it cool all the way down. Top it off and run it again until the fan cycles twice. Check the level one more time when cooled all the way and you should be good.

Response From upmm019

so what sort of coolant should I buy?

I should have the radiator on Saturday. Barring any troubles I hope to have it installed the same day.

However, not sure if I should put dexcool in it or go with something else.

it had dexcool and then when the motor was swapped out the garage doing the work put something else in that is not dexcool and its not the green stuff either.

any suggestions.

Response From Hammer Time

It's really not that important. Dexcool is a 5 year coolant and the green stuff is a 2 year coolant. The yellow stuff is a substitute for Dexcool with all the same properties as Dexcool but if green coolant contaminates either of the 5 years coolants, they just become 2 year coolants, regardless of the color. If your were to use Dexcool, you would have to thoroughly flush all the other coolants out first for it to do any good.

Response From upmm019

Well, I got the new radiator but did not get a chance to install it.

However, my son who drives this car, indicated that on his way back to college driving normal highway speeds without the air conditioning on says the car runs at about 250 degrees.

is that not a little too warm? We were only having mild 70's temp in our area too.

My other vehicles run around 210

Response From Hammer Time

Of course that's too hot but why are you driving it when you haven't installed the radiator yet? Your going to end up with a blown head gasket. That engine is very prone to that and that temp can easily do that. 230 is acceptable. 250 is not.

Response From upmm019

didnt have time.

I was not aware it would do that.

I will advise him to continue to run the heat/air to keep the temp down.

next time he is home I'll swap out the radiator.

How does one test if the fans are coming on at the right temp? I know the fans come on when the air is on and they do come on when it's not on but not until the car is around that 250 range.

Response From Hammer Time

Turning the heat on isn't going to save your engine. All that does is add a couple quarts more coolant into the mix but it only a momentary relief.

Don't worry about the fans right now. They have no effect at highway speeds.

Response From upmm019

I'm going to work on the car later today....

Just so I'm clear ... you suggest that I pull the thermostat and hook everything back up but add a flush addiative.

Let it run and then go ahead and empty everything and replace the radiator with the new one.

I can use the normal dexcool as a replacement and just run it a few cycles to insure the system is full.

That said... what should I be seeing for temps?

should I put a new thermostat in it too or can I use the existing.. it was new just a few months ago when the engine was replaced.

Also... on that temp guage where should I see it normally run? if it's working right should it ever go over the 4th tick mark closest to 260 ?

Response From Hammer Time

If the car has been real hot since the thermostat was installed, then replace it again. sounds like you understand everything. Normal temps would be 195 to 205 at cruising speed and as high as about 230 in traffic with the A/C off.

Response From upmm019

No, I think it's ran hot since we've had it.

I was trying to find a picture of what the coolant looked like before I had it flushed once...

The nearest I could find is this one..


it was not that bad but there was globs of stuff in it... just wonder if that fowled up the current radiator...

Also, do I need to buy one of thos prestone flush kits or I just do what you suggested (take out thermostat and run with addiative)?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, all that stuff has to be flushed out.
Remove the thermostat and put the empty housing back on. Use some strong flushing chemical and run the car for at least 30 minutes @ 2000RPM if it will do that without overheating. If not, you may have to repeat the process again.

When your finished flushing, remove the lower hose and upper hose and run the garden hose into the upper until it flows clear at the bottom with the engine off.. Then put your T-stat back in and replace the radiator. Don't install the new rad until you get all that junk out.

Response From upmm019

Gotcha!

Thanks for all of your help

I'll report the outcome...

Response From upmm019 Top Rated Answer

I forgot to ask one thing....

since I am replacing the radiator.... should I replace the radiator cap too?

Not sure if that is needed or not or what sort of problem come from a bad radiator cap if there is any...

Response From Hammer Time

I try to change them when I can, especially when they get all gummed up. They are calibrated to a specific pressure for release and they have to remain accurate.