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We stock Radiator Cap parts for most Mini models, including Cooper, Cooper Countryman, Cooper Paceman.

2006 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap Genuine

P311-10A7F72    W0133-1665884  New

Genuine Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • @ Thermostat Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated
CSF Radiator
2007 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 1.6L CSF Radiator

P311-5B46201    4515  New


  • Radiator Cap
  • Small, 16 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper Base L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
2002 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 1.6L Gates - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-3A234E9    31528  New

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Gates Radiator Cap
  • 16 psi Pressure Rating
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coolant Recovery System: Optional System
    • Filler Neck Depth (in): .75
    • Filler Neck Inside Diameter (in): 1.61
    • Filler Neck Outside Diameter (in): 2.13
    • OE Comparison Rating: Oe Performance
    • SAE Pressure Range (psi): 14-18
    • Shell Diameter (in): 2.33
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated GAS L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
2006 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap Febi

P311-0A535ED    W0133-1665884  New

Febi Radiator Cap
  • @ Thermostat Housing
Brand: Febi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated
2015 Mini Cooper Radiator Cap Febi

P311-51C7AF2    W0133-1975592  New

Febi Radiator Cap
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Febi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2015 - Mini Cooper B46A20M0
2017 Mini Cooper Clubman Radiator Cap 3 Cyl 1.5L Febi

P311-51C7AF2    W0133-1975592  New

Febi Radiator Cap
  • Location-Reservoir
Brand: Febi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Mini Cooper Clubman L 3 Cyl 1.5L - 1499

Latest Mini Repair and Radiator Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

01 Voyager - no heat

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Richiei on 01 Voyager - no heat

I have a 01 Chrysler Voyager - the radiator was changed and now the mini-van is not making any heat. The engine gauge is showing 1/2 between hot and cold, like it usually does, but when the heater is turned on, only cold air is coming out of the vents. If I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to 2k or 2500 hot air will come out. I did bring the van back to the guy who changed the radiator, with the van sitting still in his parking lot it does make hot air. Any suggestions?

Response From Sidom

I would also make sure the thermostat is in good working order. If that was the problem usually it would set a P0128 code.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just a maybe: Cooling system may not be really FULL. If this has a radiator cap on radiator check there first - then recovery tank to proper level,


Response From Hammer Time

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If they are..........

The temperature is controlled by the use of an air mix door that is operated by an electric motor/actuator. This door can be jammed or the actuator can be inoperative or have stripped plastic gears internally.


Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From Dodgegirl94 on Radiators!

Ok, A friend of mine is completely flat broke. She needs mechanical help and she asked me. I know nooottthhinnnnggg about radiators. Nada. Zip. Zilch.

History: About a month ago this friends Mini Van had a MAJOR leak, she took it to the mechanic and he put a water pump in. Recently the leak came back (she didn't tell me when) its only on long drives, and now she wants to try that radiator leak fix...stuff...that you can buy.

Actual reason for this post: What can you tell me about radiators? What do I look for that shows it needs to be replaced? The fins, if they're really worn down, lots of rust? The area of the leak? I've tried googling this but I've seriously come up with absolutely.freaking.nothing.

Second question: My truck started making a winding/humming noise when I put it in reverse. How bad is that?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Type of vehicles and model years would help. Most radiators if the actual leak simply need a new radiator. Forget sealers as that will just cause it to clog and more problems later and still need the new radiator.

If a real old car radiators can be fixed, anything near newer they really can't and not practical vs a new one.

If you know as you said "nothing" about cars and repair why are you taking this on?

One car per thread please. Start another with the other,


Response From Dodgegirl94

It's a '97 Plymouth voyager. And I'm taking it on because she has no money and I have the resources. I had helped her before with some problems but I just gave her ideas on where to start. She asked me to help so I'm trying.
I mean it can't really be that hard, right?

Response From Hammer Time

Sealer is a very bad idea. All it does is plug up radiators and heater cores and make your problem worse than it already is. Seriously, if she can't afford to repair it correctly, she just needs to park the car until she can. There is no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can". You really should have it diagnose properly first to make sure you are even on the right track with a radiator.

Response From nickwarner

I bought the exact same vehicle for my girl. Last guy dumped that garbage in it. Didn't seal the leak, that had to get fixed anyway, but plugged the heater core up so come winter it could barely defrost the windows. If you think a radiator is expensive, try doing the heater core plus the radiator you need anyway.

A pressure test will reveal the cause of the leak. If the hoses are original or looking rough you will need to replace them as well. They aren't pricey and will save a lot of trouble down the road.

With HT here, never use crap in a can and if you can't afford to fix it you will need to park it until repairs can be made.

By the way, absolutely do not use straight water in the cooling system because antifreeze costs so much more. I could show you a $1400 headgasket job I have in my driveway where straight water ate through it. You could buy a lot of antifreeze for $1400.

Response From Dodgegirl94 Top Rated Answer

Ok! No sealer!!! Yiikkkeeesss!! Why is it still on the market if it's that bad? And I had a good half hour lesson on radiators from a mechanic friend, he backs up the "no sealer" idea. So, I'm looking at hoses, rust, the transistor, and the radiator cap. Thanks everyone for your input!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Yiikkkeeesss!! Why is it still on the market if it's that bad?

Because someone will buy it and someone will make money selling it and that's all it takes.

There is no "USDA" for auto parts and additives.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Especially the large parts outlet chain stores there's a whole isle dedicated to junk that either won't work or be harmful. If it sells they sell it. Buyer beware.

There are a couple snake oil things that can help certain issues all depending on the problem. Cure a problem for a car out of a can/bottle of something - NO! The bad part is many cause a lot of extra problems - that's unfair,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes it could be hard if you are thinking of doing this yourself. First you need to verify that it's bad at all. If you can't plain see it a pressure test should reveal it. You can just check the site of popular parts outlets for what a radiator is worth if it will need it. Factor new antifreeze in also. If sent out parts would be higher than doing it yourself.

The potential problems are getting things out of the way, transmission cooler lines disconnected and sensors swapped. Cooling fan assembly would be moved or removed. I really don't know for the model but some vehicles a radiator will only go out thru the bottom requiring having the vehicle hoisted high enough.

If you must go the sealer way it only has a chance and only use a small amount not the whole container but know if it doesn't work or last (likely) it makes it harder later to do right and more expensive.

Nice of you to help a friend. At least get it diagnosed for sure so you know what you need. Get quotes/estimates on the job. If this thing overheats bad enough which is easy with a leak you could really get into expensive problems,


External Heater

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From NAT WHEATLEY on External Heater

I have a 2001 F-150 and the heater is dead. I don't want to put money into replacing the heater. Is there some type of external unit that I can use that plugs into the lighter, hooks up the battery or other? I looked quickly online and saw several, but all had poor reviews in terms of the units not producing much heat.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

I n my experiance I would agree with the reviews you saw. I have tried these types of heaters in the past on a old cluncker and had poor results. It will give you a bit of heat but not the whole cab. Tom may have some good advice here. He is the local A/C and heat expert

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off -what's wrong with the existing heat?

Any electric 12v heater is VERY limited in possible BTU power - like 1250 max I think - which is diddle or perhaps just 2% of what you really need. I used a handheld one once just to help defrost windows in yard vehicle and it was almost useless.

The trouble is vehicle's exchange so much air all the time you are fighting a lost cause almost. Think of how fast heat is lost when you just shut down a working system - just seconds and cab goes cold again.

Depending on just what is wrong there are a few shortcuts to get some heat with existing system for small bucks.

Let me/us know what wrong with it now and we can suggest from there. Save your $$ on electric ones. Seriously - they can't make any more heat than using a cigarette lighter and you know that won't heat the thing,


Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom; My '40 Ford Coupe had an electric heater mounted under the glove box. It was painted the same color as the dash. Still unsure if it was 'OE', but sure looked like it. Of course, it was a 6V system. So many years ago that I don't remember if it had defroster tubing. When I changed to Chev running gear and 12V, I removed it as it took up too much space (It was huge). But, as I remember, it worked quite well, at least for Oregon temps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey - Loren - we're giving away our "old fartness" here! No problem that 6 or 12 volts COULD do it. The upgrade of alternator and battery alone would outcost just fixing this almost no matter what's wrong with it.

The ones sold now that I've noticed are either volutarily or mandatorily limited to what could be expected power from normal power ports/cig lighters. Kind of like the household electric heaters are limited to just ~5,000 BTU as that's about what a 15 amp circuit could handle without burning up wires and they still do at that.

I had thought of all kinds of tricks like the rear heater box and fan that sits under a seat in busses and large perhaps now older passenger vans - and just wire up the fan to a switch. It all adds up to too much effort and it would be missing "defrost" which here and many places is no luxury - it's needed desperately or you don't drive!

Funny - Just came in from freezin' my keister off putting tire slime in my '48 Tractor as it has a slow leak and is 80% calcium chloride water filled in tire with 250# weights to boot so that wheel ain't coming off too easy for me anyway! Dry weight on that sucker is close to 3 tons without the water and weights! 6V pos ground system would blow most folks minds too! Cool as it's OE electric start but still has the crank hole to do by hand!

Still waiting to hear what's wrong with this truck. If it needs a heater core and all that work is too much for someone than most can be sealed and just zero pressure the cooling system if it's a yard junker it would work. If core is the problem I wouldn't waste time on a used one to save a buck but any other stuff wrong with dash should be in salvage yards and fairly cheap........


Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I had thought about putting a heater in our boat, at one time. Actually would've been quite easy. It was an I/O, and I was going to run heater hoses from the engine (5.0 Chev) to under the jump seats that were on each side of the engine cover, then just add a couple of fans. But, we didn't do much winter skiing. LOL.
Old fart-ness? LMAO! Yeah, those were the days. Had that '40 for 23 years.

Response From Guest

I'm concerned that the system flushing sounds like what he has done each time already. I also can't keep rolling the dice thinking that this time it will fix it for good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This isn't "rolling the dice" ----- when flushing worked, then junk coming out should have been noted - it not then you would question something else alltogether like some funky blend door problem but that doesn't explain to me anyway why it worked from flushing if even for the day or so??

There's more junk in there than is being flushed out is my call from the history so far. I'd bet it's loaded with the sawdust style sealer unless you can be sure it's never been used that's about how that stuff will behave when more than a spoonful is used.

The flush will probably take a solvent to flush not just garden hose and water which would normally suffice. There may be evidence of goo in the recovery tank or under radiator cap - take a look,


Response From Guest

Thanks for the replies. I'm not entirely clear what's wrong with the heater(I know nothing about anything under the hood...)I've brought in several times to try to have the issue fixed. Each time the mechanic has said that the heater was clogged, that he unclogged it, changed the antifreeze, etc and its working fine.

It does seem to work fine each time...for about a day. The last time we agreed that this routine wasn't working, and that the heater needed to be replaced. I made an appt, left the truck for the day. When I came back, he hadn't replaced it, but did the same 'unclogging' routine, though he said he did it much more throughly this time (and I'm sure he did, I do actually trust him). The heater worked...for about a day. Its an old truck, and after sinking money into having it serviced each time, I can't drop more money on it at this point to replace the heater. But I am cold...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There could be a couple things causing this.

I'll bet first that the system is so full of sealer that it clogs and needs a whole system flush out but beware because if it had a leak somewhere that sealer did seal up it probably will return.

The other thing is to make sure that coolant is staying full. I'm pretty sure the Ford Trucks still use a pressure radiator cap on the radiator and not just a cap on a remote tank which is a "recovery" tank. It needs to be known full at the radiator.

** There are assorted reason it may drop from full there and might show OK at the see thru recovery tank. The condition of the radiator cap itself allows for coolant when it expands to be put to that recovery tank and when it cools (contracts) draws just coolant back to the radiator and hence the whole engine's cooling system including the heater which is part of it.

If that cap is faulty it tosses out the expanded coolant and just draws back air. If it does that a few times the system is actually low and many will quit with the heater first - then later you may have troubles overheating - maybe not.

If there's a gasket (head) problem it could be blowing combustion gasses into cooling system and that won't allow for heater to work same as low coolant level but that would usually blow coolant over the top of that recovery tank and you'd have other complaints.

The heater core is just a mini radiator but it would be the "catch all" for debris in the system and clog early if the case. If there's sealer or plain junk thru the system it just keeps stopping at the heater core. Gotta get all of it out and it should stay working. If just the core is being flushed and that works it indicates there's more junk still in the system to remove.

I'm not judging your mechanic but this should be fairly routine. You said it does work so core isn't clogged with "calcified" junk that won't flush out but rather regular junk that does. Get it all out and it will work is my suggestion.

Again - I'm not there to pass judgement but replacing the heater core right now and leaving junk in system will just clog again.

AgainII: Flush out whole system. Removal of thermostat and radiator hoses - even block plugs (they are like bolts "drain plug like" down low in water jackets) on lower sides of the engine and really flush this thing out and it will last,


Response From way2old

Has anyone looked at the blend doors? Or the flow of coolant? Just wondering.