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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • CSF Radiator
    CSF Radiator
  • Gates
    Gates
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Motormite
    Motormite
  • Mr Gasket
    Mr Gasket
  • Stant
    Stant

Best Selling Genuine Mazda Radiator Caps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including CSF Radiator, Stant
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mazda Replacement Radiator Cap Parts

We stock Radiator Cap parts for most Mazda models, including 3 Sport, B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, CX3, CX5, CX7, CX9, MPV, MX5, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, Protege5, RX7, RX8, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

CSF Radiator
1999 Mazda Millenia Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 2.3L CSF Radiator

P311-3417C7D    4503  New

10233

Qty:
$4.91
  • Radiator Cap
  • ; Mini, 16 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Mazda Millenia V 6 Cyl 2.3L - 2254
CSF Radiator
1980 Mazda RX-7 Radiator Cap 2 Cyl 1.1L CSF Radiator

P311-2D75F09    4501  New

10229

Qty:
$5.22
  • Radiator Cap
  • ; Small, 13 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Mazda RX-7 R 2 Cyl 1.1L - 1146
CSF Radiator
1990 Mazda MPV Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.6L CSF Radiator

P311-59A61F8    4502  New

10227

Qty:
$4.91
  • Radiator Cap
  • ; Mini, 13 psi
Brand: CSF Radiator
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Mazda MPV Canada L 4 Cyl 2.6L - 2606
Stant
2007 Mazda 5 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-094B732    10242  New

17920-56B20 , 91172260 , 16401-02421 , T37 , 16401-31650 , 5862060230 , 19045P72005 , 1640131520 , 96068657 , 1640128430 , 1792056B20 , 1640131830 , 16405-0C050 , 1792068HA0 , LFB715205 , 1792075F00 , 16401-5B630 , 19045RAA003 , 19045-PWA-004 , 16401-6A140 , ST-37 , 19045-PO8-013 , 1792066F00 , 16401-31480 , 8-97182-068-0 , 5-86202-367-0 , 1640105140 , 1640175440 , 16401-50370 , 5-86206-023-0 , 19045PAAA01 , 19045-PY3-013 , 703-1727 , 16401-31520 , WL21-15-205 , 1640162100 , 19045-PO8-003 , 16401-28280 , SU00301184 , 19045-PO8-004 , 1640131792 , 164016A140 , 16401-50371 , 1640117010 , 17920-75F00 , 16401-31791 , 19045PO8014 , 7031727 , 30020692 , 19045PY3003 , WL2115205 , 10242 , 19045P08003 , 45137AE012 , 1003-16 , 19045P08014 , ZM4315205 , 19045PWA004 , 16401-7A470 , 19045-RAA-003 , 1640150371 , 19045-PAA-A01 , 8971820681 , 1640131791 , 164015B630 , 1J045RDCA01 , 16401-05140 , 1640131650 , 16405-0C020 , 1640131480 , 16401-62100 , 5862023670 , 8971820680 , 19045PY3013 , 19045P08013 , 45137AJ000 , 164017A470 , 7037 , 19045PO8004 , 19045PO8003 , 17920-66F00 , RR-42 , 1640102421 , 164050C050 , MR597126 , 33049 , 1640136020 , 1640128280 , 16401-31680 , 45137AE01A , 1792066F01 , 1640136650 , RR42 , 1640150370 , 17920-66F01 , 19045-P72-005 , 31412 , 8-97182-068-1 , 19045-PY3-003 , 19045P08004 , 19045PO8013 , 19045-PO8-014 , 1640131680 , 164050C020

Qty:
$5.03
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mazda 5 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Stant
1998 Mazda Protege Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 1.8L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-53A52D7    10241  New

16401-72090 , 1640136030 , B3C715205 , 16401-20353 , 1640146610 , 19204980 , 45137XA01B , ST-36 , T-36 , 94853743 , 7036 , RC 66 , 1640121250 , 16401-46610 , 1792076G00 , T36 , MB660667 , 1640115520 , 1640120353 , 1350A015 , 1640120310 , MR481267 , RR-41 , 94853503 , MR481216 , 31411 , B3C7-15-205 , 45137XA00A , 16401-15520 , RR41 , 1640116020 , 7031728 , 33048 , RC66 , 703-1728 , 1640172090 , 16401-16020 , 16401-21250 , 45137XA01A , 17920-76G00

Qty:
$5.09
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mazda Protege Manual L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1839
Stant
1992 Mazda MX-3 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 1.8L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-1140D9A    10327  New

ST36 , 10327 , 33064 , 7031393 , ST13R , 31533 , 703-1393 , 7913 , ST-13R

Qty:
$7.49
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Mazda MX-3 V 6 Cyl 1.8L - 1845
Stant
1992 Mazda Miata Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 1.6L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4790404    10227  New

OK30A15205 , F4BZ 8100 A , FS11-15-205 , 21430-0B200 , 0K20215205A , 21430-50A01 , E8GY8100B , E8GY8100A , FEG8-15-205 , 214306K000 , 19045-PR3-005 , E8GY 8100 A , F3XY8100A , 3533036000 , RS-79 , 16470-76021 , 25330-36000 , 21430-7994A , 2533024100 , 21430F4305 , 21430-4B000 , ZZM2-15-205 , 1648076011 , 82933 , 1792060B20 , 16401-16010 , 745153011 , 533017000 , RA-13 , 16401-54750 , 253405H000 , E8GY 8100 B , RS-519 , 17920-61A00 , 133-0145 , 133-0144 , F807-15-205 , MR481217 , RS67 , MB605277 , 7513 , RC 67 , F80715205 , 31333 , AW338245 , 2533011415 , 533033001 , 16401-63010 , F4BZ8100A , 17920-61AA0 , 46029 , N350-15-205 , KL78-15-205 , MR481218 , 19045PR7A06 , 1647076021 , 19045PM3004 , 2533025000 , RS84 , MB222066 , 1640116010 , 96067641 , ER-29 , 96062603 , 1792061AA0 , 1792082000 , 253301G000 , 0K2C615205 , RS-102 , 2533001G00 , YM1Z-8100-AB , E92H8100AC , 17920-83100 , 16401-50071 , L95-4060 , 164010C010 , 19317447 , E92Z 8100 B , OK2C615205 , F57Z 8100 A , 2143001F01 , 16480-76011 , 45113GA021 , 253301G010 , YF5Z 8100 AA , 16470-76020 , 16401-76020 , L954060 , F6XZ8100AA , FS1115205 , 82927 , E9ZZ 8100 B , 25330-33010 , 2143079901 , K81715205 , YM1Z8100AB , 94847233 , 1640108010 , 94842508 , 1640176020 , 1330145 , E8BZ 8100 B , F6XZ 8100 AA , 2533033010 , 52467188 , 21430-01F01 , 16401-0C010 , 2143017C00 , 16401-71010 , RC67 , 25330-33101 , L954063 , 1640163010 , F1CZ 8100 A , F32Z8100A , RS86 , 214307994A , 2143001F00 , 1792083100 , L95-4080 , RS88 , 21430-17C00 , B30315205A , 17920-78120 , 1640150021 , 745113051 , RS-63 , 1330144 , T13R , K817-15-205 , 703-1695 , L95-4063 , 7031695 , MB660055 , E8BZ8100A , 214307995A , 17920-82000 , 21430-7995B , 16401-74170 , 96061601 , YM1Z8100AA , MB222336 , 21430-2Z000 , 2143050A01 , F8B7-15-205 , 1640150020 , OK30A-15-205 , 45113GA020 , E8BZ8100B , N321-15-205 , 96051840 , 214307996E , 16401-50021 , 21430F430A , RA13 , RS72 , ER-25 , 16401-63010-73 , MB356417 , N32115205 , 21430-F4305 , 644107 , 1792083101 , 214301B000 , 19045PR3004 , 21430-4B700 , RR27 , 0K30A15205 , 19045-PM3-003 , 17920-83101 , 1640150070 , 533033101 , 214304B000 , 46033 , 33028 , F6XH 8100 AA , 16401-50020 , KF0115205 , F32Z 8100 A , F6XH8100AA , 214307995B , 1640115210 , RS-86 , 164016301073 , 2533036000 , ER25 , ER29 , 25330-14200 , 1640154750 , 1640171010 , MR48 1217 , 745113050 , E92Z8100B , OK20215205 , E9ZZ8100B , YF5H 8100 AA , KL1115205A , KL11-15-205A , F1CZ8100A , 214304B701 , 1640174170 , 19045PM3003 , 25330-G010 , D31615205 , L954080 , 107 , 1640187712000 , 21430-6K000 , T-13R , 745113052 , F3XY 8100 A , 96051843 , RR-27 , 25330-25000 , YF5Z8100AA , 1792060B21 , ZZM215205 , RS-67 , RS79 , 1640176021 , N3A115205A , 8941169162 , MB845036 , KL7815205 , 25330G010 , KL11-15-205 , N35015205 , 16401-15210 , 2143050A00 , 94854943 , 45113GA022 , E7GZ 8100 A , 19045-PM3-004 , 1770083100 , 533033000 , E7GZ8100A , RS-72 , 1792061A00 , 19045PR3005 , 1640150051 , 2533014200 , N3H115205 , 53-10728 , 8941532510 , 2533033101 , E92H 8100 AB , 1647076020 , 2143001F02 , 1640101010 , 10227 , 21430-1B000 , MB890520 , KF01-15-205 , 214300B200 , 214302Z000 , 21430-01F00 , N3A1-15-205A , OK202-15-205 , 19045-PR3-004 , YM1Z-8100-AA , 21430-7996E , F8B715205 , 0K20215205 , MB660171 , 2533033100 , 25330-33000 , MB660701 , 17920-60B20 , 21430-7995A , 21430-F430A , RS-84 , RS519 , AW332158 , 25330-33100 , 2533033001 , 19045-PR3-003 , RS102 , E92H 8100 AC , 17920-60B21 , 89438444230 , 21430-4B701 , KL1115205 , 214304B700 , 96060164 , 45113GA121 , 25330-21000 , RS63 , B303-15-205A , 16401-50051 , FEG815205 , RS-88 , MB660735 , 16401-76021 , 25330-33001 , 2533033000 , 5310728 , 45113GA120 , F3XY8100B , 1792078120 , 19045-PR7-A06 , OK2C6-15-205 , 16401-01010 , YF5H8100AA , 21430-79901 , 16401-50070 , 19045PR3003 , 45153AC030 , 533014201 , RS87 , 2533021000 , 16401-08010 , 16401-50050 , 21430-50A00 , 1640150071 , D316-15-205 , E92H8100AB , F57Z8100A , RS-87 , 1640150050 , 21430-01F02 , 2533017000 , E8BZ 8100 A

Qty:
$6.25
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Mazda Miata L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1597
Stant
1978 Mazda RX-3 Radiator Cap 2 Cyl 1.1L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-3D122CE    10329  New

RC-119 , 82829 , RC119 , RL-44 , 3S16 , 5300314 , 3EG16 , ESR13 , 620206 , CSP-12 , L955094 , C1UZ 8100 A , SPT-12 , 53-00231 , 46062 , ESP-19 , BSC-12 , 861855 , RL44 , 46014 , 53-00363 , RSP16 , 53-00306 , 53-00314 , RL12 , 10329 , 53-00348 , 703-1700 , 31511 , ESP19 , RSP-22 , DRS-16 , RSP-12 , 53-00223 , SPT-16 , ESR-13 , 7713 , 5300280 , 3-S-12 , ESP12 , RC109 , RSP29 , WF-16 , SR-12 , DRS13 , S12 , SP-13 , RP-16 , 11329 , CSP12 , DRS16 , BR13P , RL14 , 7031700 , 12R5S , 5300355 , L95-5051 , L955086 , 5300363 , ESR-12 , CSP13 , RSP-29 , RSP22 , DRS-13 , L955051 , SPT12 , 5300231 , RS-512 , 5300348 , RC-109 , ST13 , DRS-16L , BSC13 , 3-EF-16 , 53-00355 , CSP-13 , 33061 , SPT16 , 3S13 , DRS16L , BSC12 , RSP-21 , ESR-16 , RSP12 , BR-12P , ESR12 , DRS12 , 5300306 , S-12 , BR-16P , ESR16 , BR-13P , 3S12 , 3-S-16 , RSP-16 , RSP21 , DRS-12 , 53-00165 , RL-41 , BSC-13 , 5300165 , RC106 , 46017 , RC-106 , 3-S-13 , BR12P , 3EF16 , L95-5094 , ESP-12 , BR16P , 3-EG-16 , SP13 , SP-12 , ST-13 , 644129 , SP12 , WF16 , RP16 , RL41 , RS512 , RL-12 , 861852 , RL-14 , PL-14 , L95-5086 , 5300223 , C1UZ8100A , PL14 , SR12 , 53-00280

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1978 - Mazda RX-3 R 2 Cyl 1.1L - 1146
Stant
1977 Mazda B1800 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 1.8L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-415170A    10229  New

D2VY 8K103 A , 3M12 , C23860 , 19045-692-003 , ER12 , D2VY8100A , 3EG165 , 129 , 2143089994 , WC-14 , 19045634003 , WR16 , MB008101 , 2143089906 , 8871-15-205 , A57167 , A61784 , RC12 , 21430-10600 , BC12 , 77-513 , WA14 , 19045692003 , RS-77 , 21430M0200 , RS512A , 620202 , 127 , 1640142010 , J3239375 , 9281062570 , 1686107 , RS77 , MB221633 , ZZL015205 , D2VY8K103A , 229623921 , 299623921 , 164013601172 , 2143089900 , 1640760010 , 1640134010 , 1338045 , RC19 , RC45 , 16401-40120 , 1640160040 , RS-50A , WC14 , 171111200 , 6682274 , ZZL0-15-205 , 928 106 257 03 , 16401-42010 , 1640150010 , 16401-23070 , RS-16 , 312121321E , WA-14 , 133-8045 , RS16 , 21430U9600 , 0361865 , D8RZ8100A , 7701018380 , 82929 , DR16 , 1640123070 , DR-12 , T13 , 21430J6200 , P12 , S-12 , 2533014201 , RS50 , 21430-89907 , 130660 , P13 , RS6 , 16401-41020 , M-13 , E5TZ 8100 A , 16401-50010 , 21430-89900 , RA-14 , 17111100848 , CP-12 , 2143089902 , 25330-14201 , E7RY8100A , MB007571 , 1570172030 , 2143089990MP , 17111262051 , E9RY8100A , U95-4110 , 1640120010 , RS-40 , 2993-23-921 , 16401-36011 , 533014202 , 46010 , 299323921 , DR12 , 0766-15-205 , E2DZ 8100 A , 745124020 , 2143089905 , 16401-50010-73 , WC12 , 21430-89905 , SE0115205 , WR-16 , 076615205 , 1330143 , PA14 , 036-1865 , 3M13 , 2143089901 , 1640160010 , BR-13 , BR-16 , 123 , R-29 , 3M16 , M13 , RA-19 , 10229 , 2981-15-205 , 5364692 , 16401-36011-72 , C9AZ 8100 A , D8RZ 8100 A , 703-1697 , BC13 , RC9 , 645012012 , 19045-PA0-014 , ER27 , CP12 , 3241241 , DR-31 , 53-10694 , 21430-89990-MP , 048815205 , 33030 , A14 , J3246241 , D7ZZ 8100 A , P-13 , RS-32 , 21430U0100 , RS12A , ER-16 , E5TZ8100A , CH10427 , 2296-23-921 , 92810625703 , L954039 , 21430-C0500 , MB007900 , 2996-23-921 , RR22 , PA-14 , 645012051 , E9TZ8100A , RS-52 , 7031697 , RS-512A , D2RY8100B , 83502502 , 46031 , 3220313 , DR-16 , E7RY-8100-A , 6635784 , 7257668 , 31527 , 083915350 , 1640141020 , 025121321 , 1640140120 , L95-4004 , 133-8052 , 6410457 , 25330-11415 , 17111712669 , WC-16 , 12R5 , S12 , 663240 , 3187167 , 2143089907 , RC-22 , BC-13 , RR-29 , 16401-34010 , 21430-M0200 , 133-8078 , F2UZ8K103A , CP-13 , U954110 , ER16 , 21430-89902 , M-16 , E9RY 8100 A , 21430C0500 , E5TH8100A , RS50A , WR12 , RS41 , RC-16 , 21430-89901 , MA152550 , D7ZZ8100A , P-12 , BR-12 , 912609 , DR-13 , 7013 , RS-12A , RC6 , D27Z8100A , ER-27 , 3-M-12 , 745153010 , BR13 , 21430-89906 , RR12 , S16 , RC-12 , 2143010600 , RS-6 , DR13 , 53-10660 , 19045PA0014 , 1640141021 , WC13 , 1502172631 , WR-12 , 0839-15-350 , 0488-15-205 , 022251255 , 46007 , 16401-41021 , ER-13 , 17110152374 , 21430-U9600 , 16401-50010-72 , R29 , 21430-89994 , 16401-20010 , RA14 , MB007298 , 17 11 1 712 492 , 028121453 , RC16 , RS62 , 028 121 453 , 887115205 , 77513 , 1610771 , RC22 , D1TZ8100A , 25060143 , RR-22 , 00861125 , D2VY 8100 A , 164015001073 , 16401-60040 , 33000866 , D27Z 8100 A , 1640141010 , 16401-41010 , RC-19 , 3-EG-165 , J3239819 , RC-6 , 3-M-16 , RS-62 , M16 , 164015001072 , CP13 , 6673313 , RS40 , 16401-60010 , RR29 , SE01-15-205 , RC-45 , 2239643 , A-14 , 1338052 , RS-50 , 1640136011 , ER-19 , MB721633 , 21430-U0100 , 3-M-13 , RS52 , L954004 , C9ZZ 8100 A , M-12 , 1338078 , R12 , BR16 , 1326012 , 1640136010 , 133-0143 , ER-12 , 5310660 , BR12 , 16407-60010 , 3239375 , WC-13 , E2DZ8100A , 928 106 257 0 , 645012021 , 2143089990 , WC-12 , T-13 , 5310694 , 21430-J6200 , ER13 , 6410292 , RC-9 , D2RY 8100 B , MB007570 , 17 11 0 152 374 , D1TZ 8100 A , D2TZ8100A , 6646678 , RS32 , RS-41 , L95-4039 , WC16 , 66-3240 , ER19 , RA19 , RR16 , 16401-36010 , 298115205 , RR-12 , E5TH 8100 A , M12 , 87749607 , RR-16 , 2533011415 , D2TZ 8100 A , C9ZZ8100A , RS12 , RS-12 , 21430-89990 , E9TZ 8100 A , C9AZ8100A , BC-12 , DR31 , 17111712492

Qty:
$5.24
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Mazda B1800 L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1796
Stant
1997 Mazda B2300 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.3L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-563AE79    10330  New

5096104AA , DRS29 , DRS-29 , 7B0121321C , RSP30 , 4596198 , 7716 , 703-1701 , 644130 , 7031701 , 33062 , 1501-16 , 31518 , 82830 , 11330 , ST16 , 10330 , RSP-30 , 5103476AA

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Mazda B2300 L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Stant
1997 Mazda B2300 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4F56E0F    10230  New

RS53 , RS-43 , 4592098 , 5310686 , RC-44 , 6410691 , RS61 , RS-17A , RR-19 , 3EG175 , 131 , T16 , WR18 , 7B0121321C , RS-17B , RS-80 , 94222052 , RS44 , 133-9001 , RA-20 , RC-34 , 25661994 , RR17 , ZZM115205 , F4TZ 8100 B , RR-30 , 5096104AA , 94021623 , 1338060 , RS-44 , F1VY8100B , RS-53 , WC-18 , RR30 , RS17B , BC17 , RS17 , RC17 , 19045-PH7-003 , 22583309 , RR20 , FIVH8100BA , RR31 , C44995 , 9441062570 , RR-20 , WR17 , 9-21450-610-0 , ER-17 , RS80 , RS-53A , F4TZ8100B , 25060228 , RS-47A , RC19 , 1339001 , DR29 , 12339878 , RS17A , RC44 , RS-61 , WR-17 , CAC4568 , BR17 , 46008 , RS-90 , 25697430 , RS-64 , 7016 , A17 , RC-26 , SP19 , 04596444AA , 9214506100 , 4596444AA , S17 , 11 53 1 486 703 , 19045PH7003 , 7031698 , 133-8060 , M-17 , RS-17 , RR-18 , RS-40 , 125 , F1VY 8100 B , BC-17 , RR-31 , L95-4012 , DR17 , RC18 , CCC6707 , RC 81 , RS-34 , 6410665 , 620203 , 33031 , ZZM1-15-205 , RC15 , F47H 8100 AB , ER-18 , RS47A , RR18 , 944 106 257 00 , 620204 , 11531486703 , EAC4192 , M17 , WC-17 , RC34 , 3-M-17 , RS-83 , L95-4020 , 52006926 , 11171100848 , 15977333 , 9214506101 , RA20 , 9-21450-610-1 , 31528 , 3M17 , EAC3702 , RC26 , RS35 , RS83 , R31 , 82930 , RC95 , RS40 , RC33 , 52028892AA , 52014479AA , 8-94228-748-1 , RC 95 , RS60 , 8942287481 , 133-8086 , RS90 , 4693175 , 94222051 , 46032 , 5214500021 , WR-18 , RC-17 , 944 106 257 0 , 3-EG-175 , RS34 , ER18 , WA-17 , 130 , 861050 , JLM9652 , 4596198 , 53-10686 , RS53A , RC81 , 703-1698 , 53-10678 , RC-18 , RS43 , 1338086 , 94410625700 , 46009 , RR-17 , 05086226AA , ER-28 , 5352594 , RC20 , RS-60 , DR-17 , 94026437 , RR19 , 15075565 , E9DZ 8100 A , 94022635 , RC82 , DR-29 , RS-51 , 12R7 , 5310678 , RA-17 , 05278697AA , 126 , L954020 , R-31 , ER17 , 5086226AA , WC18 , 6410160 , RC 82 , E9DZ8100A , ER28 , CAC5095 , 10230 , RC-33 , WC17 , 5191233AA , FIVH 8100 BA , RC-19 , 119 , 5-21450-002-1 , R-30 , RS-35 , 94228748 , WA17 , RC-20 , SP-19 , RS64 , 94250629 , F47H8100AB , RC-15 , 17111468060 , 04693175AA , 5278697AA , RS51 , BR-17 , ST-16 , 5103476AA , 94250633 , RC29 , A-17 , RC-29 , 12474637 , 6410962 , RA17 , 8315764 , L954012 , R30

Qty:
$5.88
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Mazda B2300 L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Stant
1998 Mazda Millenia Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 2.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-43D0CED    10233  New

F87H8100AA , MO4495805 , 45137AE001 , 31336 , 8941169161 , 33044 , MR968532 , OK2C6-15-205A , KL15-15-205A , 19045-PAA-A51 , 214301P111 , 25330-3K000 , 8-97171-436-0 , MR481252 , 1633120060 , 8-52477-552-0 , 12R8 , 7516 , RS76 , E9SH 8100 AA , 1F7115205 , 253302E000 , 97249639 , YF47-15-205 , 19045-PR7-J24 , 8941532511 , 2143006P01 , 253303E000 , 2533038000 , 8971714360 , 2143030P00 , 1640162090 , RR-33 , 19045-PV3-005 , 19045RAAA51 , 21430-1P111 , 253301R000 , 97104194 , 253303K000 , 32007330 , 8-97239-187-0 , 25330-3E-000 , 19045PV1015 , 1K2N1-15-205 , PE0115205 , N3A115205 , 8-94408-139-1 , 25330B1000 , 05143831AA , N3A1-15-205 , 8-52468-173-0 , 45137AE00B , A501-15-205 , 1793282Z00 , 97129572 , 1350A730 , 16331-20060 , 52477552 , 214301P100 , 16401-62090 , 21430-1P110 , 214300M900 , 8972410920 , 53301P000 , 45137AE00A , RC 72 , 25330-38001 , 82933 , 97027623 , 163040A020 , 94132697 , 25330-2E000 , 19045-PT0-003 , 25330C2000 , 1633120040 , 97182935 , 97182673 , 94116916 , 8-94153-251-1 , 1773062H00 , 21430-1P120 , 10233 , 94418071 , 703-1712 , 21430-0M900 , 533038001 , 97042334 , 16331-20020 , 25330-1P000 , F42Z 8100 A , RR33 , 19045PR7A08 , 2533039100 , OK2FA15205 , 97120073 , 19045PT0003 , 253302E100 , 8972095580 , 1757052D00 , 53303K000 , 8971643730 , E9SZ8100A , 2143074N00 , 8-94408-139-0 , 21430-30P00 , 253304R000 , 8-94384-423-1 , 97167861 , F02Z8100A , 97148007 , 253300W000 , 8-94116-916-1 , 8-94116-916-0 , 1792065G50 , 32010219 , 8943844231 , 19045-PV1-015 , T16R , 1640150210 , 21430-54P00 , 8943844230 , K2N115205 , 8941169160 , 19045-RAA-A51 , 253301P000 , 25330-39100 , 97164373 , 45137AE002 , KL01-15-205 , 97171436 , RS89 , 25330-38000 , L55515205 , 97177848 , 2533020 , 19045-PR7-A08 , 253301H000 , 0K2C615205A , 97167854 , 2143054P00 , F87H 8100 AA , 19045PV3005 , 8972095590 , 1640167150 , 16304-0A010 , KL1515205A , PE2015205 , RS-89 , 253302E001 , 05073260AA , 8944081390 , 97136119 , N32315205 , 253303C100 , 8524681730 , 8944081391 , 214301P120 , PE1115205 , E9SZ 8100 A , 19045PR7J24 , E9SH8100AA , 21430-06P01 , 21430-1P107 , 5L548100AA , K2N1-15-205 , KL6115205 , 16401-67150 , 7031712 , 19045-PT0-004 , RS-76 , 21430-74N00 , 1F71-15-205 , 46045 , YF4715205 , 8524775520 , 1K2N115205 , 0K2FA15205 , M04495805 , N323-15-205 , AJA415205 , 21430-1P100 , ZZM5-15-205 , 8-97241-092-0 , A50115205 , 8-97209-558-0 , KL0115205 , 21430-D991A , OK2FA-15-205 , 8971041940 , 94408139 , 8-97209-559-0 , 32010126 , 1792082Z10 , 214301P110 , 4495805 , 52468173 , 32007331 , 1350A043 , 16304-0A020 , 2533038001 , 19045PAAA51 , RC72 , 19045PT0004 , 533039100 , 19045PCA004 , 19045PR7A07 , T-16R , 21430D991A , 25330-1R000 , 45137AE000 , 19045-PCA-004 , ZZM515205 , 8972391870 , AS0115205 , 214301P107 , 1633120020 , 253303Z000 , 553323K000 , 94153251 , 17920-65G50 , 25330-3Z000 , 8-97104-194-0 , F42Z8100A , 163040A010 , 25330-0W000 , OK2C615205A , F02Z 8100 A , 97384423 , 45137AE003 , KL61-15-205 , 8-94384-423-0 , 97177872 , 16331-20040 , 19045-PR7-A07 , 53303Z000 , 253302D090

Qty:
$6.31
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mazda Millenia V 6 Cyl 2.3L - 2254
Stant
2006 Mazda MPV Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.0L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-04B1B08    10333  New

ST16R , 7031394 , 33065 , 05143831AA , ST-16R , 31534 , 7916 , 703-1394 , 05073260AA , L55515205

Qty:
$7.18
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 16 psi
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mazda MPV V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Stant
2011 Mazda CX-7 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4FD397F    10267  New

214308991A , L32115205 , 8C3Z8100A , 214357991C , T-20R , 33086 , 45137FE002 , 703-2475 , L3R115205 , 21430-8991A , 7032475 , LF2115205 , 8C348100AA , 214308991C , 31564 , 8C348100AB , 6L248100AF , 6L248100AE , 6L248100AC , 21435-7991B , 21435-7991C , 45137FE001 , 6L2Z8100AC , 214308997A , 214357991B , T20R , 214307991B , LFH115205 , 21430-8997A , 8S438100AA , 214308995A , LF21-15-205

Qty:
$6.75
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 20 psi Coolant Reservoir Cap for This Application
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mazda CX-7 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Stant
2007 Mazda 6 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.3L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4FD397F    10267  New

214308991A , L32115205 , 8C3Z8100A , 214357991C , T-20R , 33086 , 45137FE002 , 703-2475 , L3R115205 , 21430-8991A , 7032475 , LF2115205 , 8C348100AA , 214308991C , 31564 , 8C348100AB , 6L248100AF , 6L248100AE , 6L248100AC , 21435-7991B , 21435-7991C , 45137FE001 , 6L2Z8100AC , 214308997A , 214357991B , T20R , 214307991B , LFH115205 , 21430-8997A , 8S438100AA , 214308995A , LF21-15-205

Qty:
$6.75
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 20 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mazda 6 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Stant
1986 Mazda B2000 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-1140D9A    10327  New

ST36 , 10327 , 33064 , 7031393 , ST13R , 31533 , 703-1393 , 7913 , ST-13R

Qty:
$7.49
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi Late
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mazda B2000 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Stant
1986 Mazda B2000 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - Safety Release Radiator Cap

P311-3D122CE    10329  New

RC-119 , 82829 , RC119 , RL-44 , 3S16 , 5300314 , 3EG16 , ESR13 , 620206 , CSP-12 , L955094 , C1UZ 8100 A , SPT-12 , 53-00231 , 46062 , ESP-19 , BSC-12 , 861855 , RL44 , 46014 , 53-00363 , RSP16 , 53-00306 , 53-00314 , RL12 , 10329 , 53-00348 , 703-1700 , 31511 , ESP19 , RSP-22 , DRS-16 , RSP-12 , 53-00223 , SPT-16 , ESR-13 , 7713 , 5300280 , 3-S-12 , ESP12 , RC109 , RSP29 , WF-16 , SR-12 , DRS13 , S12 , SP-13 , RP-16 , 11329 , CSP12 , DRS16 , BR13P , RL14 , 7031700 , 12R5S , 5300355 , L95-5051 , L955086 , 5300363 , ESR-12 , CSP13 , RSP-29 , RSP22 , DRS-13 , L955051 , SPT12 , 5300231 , RS-512 , 5300348 , RC-109 , ST13 , DRS-16L , BSC13 , 3-EF-16 , 53-00355 , CSP-13 , 33061 , SPT16 , 3S13 , DRS16L , BSC12 , RSP-21 , ESR-16 , RSP12 , BR-12P , ESR12 , DRS12 , 5300306 , S-12 , BR-16P , ESR16 , BR-13P , 3S12 , 3-S-16 , RSP-16 , RSP21 , DRS-12 , 53-00165 , RL-41 , BSC-13 , 5300165 , RC106 , 46017 , RC-106 , 3-S-13 , BR12P , 3EF16 , L95-5094 , ESP-12 , BR16P , 3-EG-16 , SP13 , SP-12 , ST-13 , 644129 , SP12 , WF16 , RP16 , RL41 , RS512 , RL-12 , 861852 , RL-14 , PL-14 , L95-5086 , 5300223 , C1UZ8100A , PL14 , SR12 , 53-00280

Qty:
$11.47
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi Early
  • Safety Release Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mazda B2000 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Stant
1986 Mazda B2000 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4790404    10227  New

OK30A15205 , F4BZ 8100 A , FS11-15-205 , 21430-0B200 , 0K20215205A , 21430-50A01 , E8GY8100B , E8GY8100A , FEG8-15-205 , 214306K000 , 19045-PR3-005 , E8GY 8100 A , F3XY8100A , 3533036000 , RS-79 , 16470-76021 , 25330-36000 , 21430-7994A , 2533024100 , 21430F4305 , 21430-4B000 , ZZM2-15-205 , 1648076011 , 82933 , 1792060B20 , 16401-16010 , 745153011 , 533017000 , RA-13 , 16401-54750 , 253405H000 , E8GY 8100 B , RS-519 , 17920-61A00 , 133-0145 , 133-0144 , F807-15-205 , MR481217 , RS67 , MB605277 , 7513 , RC 67 , F80715205 , 31333 , AW338245 , 2533011415 , 533033001 , 16401-63010 , F4BZ8100A , 17920-61AA0 , 46029 , N350-15-205 , KL78-15-205 , MR481218 , 19045PR7A06 , 1647076021 , 19045PM3004 , 2533025000 , RS84 , MB222066 , 1640116010 , 96067641 , ER-29 , 96062603 , 1792061AA0 , 1792082000 , 253301G000 , 0K2C615205 , RS-102 , 2533001G00 , YM1Z-8100-AB , E92H8100AC , 17920-83100 , 16401-50071 , L95-4060 , 164010C010 , 19317447 , E92Z 8100 B , OK2C615205 , F57Z 8100 A , 2143001F01 , 16480-76011 , 45113GA021 , 253301G010 , YF5Z 8100 AA , 16470-76020 , 16401-76020 , L954060 , F6XZ8100AA , FS1115205 , 82927 , E9ZZ 8100 B , 25330-33010 , 2143079901 , K81715205 , YM1Z8100AB , 94847233 , 1640108010 , 94842508 , 1640176020 , 1330145 , E8BZ 8100 B , F6XZ 8100 AA , 2533033010 , 52467188 , 21430-01F01 , 16401-0C010 , 2143017C00 , 16401-71010 , RC67 , 25330-33101 , L954063 , 1640163010 , F1CZ 8100 A , F32Z8100A , RS86 , 214307994A , 2143001F00 , 1792083100 , L95-4080 , RS88 , 21430-17C00 , B30315205A , 17920-78120 , 1640150021 , 745113051 , RS-63 , 1330144 , T13R , K817-15-205 , 703-1695 , L95-4063 , 7031695 , MB660055 , E8BZ8100A , 214307995A , 17920-82000 , 21430-7995B , 16401-74170 , 96061601 , YM1Z8100AA , MB222336 , 21430-2Z000 , 2143050A01 , F8B7-15-205 , 1640150020 , OK30A-15-205 , 45113GA020 , E8BZ8100B , N321-15-205 , 96051840 , 214307996E , 16401-50021 , 21430F430A , RA13 , RS72 , ER-25 , 16401-63010-73 , MB356417 , N32115205 , 21430-F4305 , 644107 , 1792083101 , 214301B000 , 19045PR3004 , 21430-4B700 , RR27 , 0K30A15205 , 19045-PM3-003 , 17920-83101 , 1640150070 , 533033101 , 214304B000 , 46033 , 33028 , F6XH 8100 AA , 16401-50020 , KF0115205 , F32Z 8100 A , F6XH8100AA , 214307995B , 1640115210 , RS-86 , 164016301073 , 2533036000 , ER25 , ER29 , 25330-14200 , 1640154750 , 1640171010 , MR48 1217 , 745113050 , E92Z8100B , OK20215205 , E9ZZ8100B , YF5H 8100 AA , KL1115205A , KL11-15-205A , F1CZ8100A , 214304B701 , 1640174170 , 19045PM3003 , 25330-G010 , D31615205 , L954080 , 107 , 1640187712000 , 21430-6K000 , T-13R , 745113052 , F3XY 8100 A , 96051843 , RR-27 , 25330-25000 , YF5Z8100AA , 1792060B21 , ZZM215205 , RS-67 , RS79 , 1640176021 , N3A115205A , 8941169162 , MB845036 , KL7815205 , 25330G010 , KL11-15-205 , N35015205 , 16401-15210 , 2143050A00 , 94854943 , 45113GA022 , E7GZ 8100 A , 19045-PM3-004 , 1770083100 , 533033000 , E7GZ8100A , RS-72 , 1792061A00 , 19045PR3005 , 1640150051 , 2533014200 , N3H115205 , 53-10728 , 8941532510 , 2533033101 , E92H 8100 AB , 1647076020 , 2143001F02 , 1640101010 , 10227 , 21430-1B000 , MB890520 , KF01-15-205 , 214300B200 , 214302Z000 , 21430-01F00 , N3A1-15-205A , OK202-15-205 , 19045-PR3-004 , YM1Z-8100-AA , 21430-7996E , F8B715205 , 0K20215205 , MB660171 , 2533033100 , 25330-33000 , MB660701 , 17920-60B20 , 21430-7995A , 21430-F430A , RS-84 , RS519 , AW332158 , 25330-33100 , 2533033001 , 19045-PR3-003 , RS102 , E92H 8100 AC , 17920-60B21 , 89438444230 , 21430-4B701 , KL1115205 , 214304B700 , 96060164 , 45113GA121 , 25330-21000 , RS63 , B303-15-205A , 16401-50051 , FEG815205 , RS-88 , MB660735 , 16401-76021 , 25330-33001 , 2533033000 , 5310728 , 45113GA120 , F3XY8100B , 1792078120 , 19045-PR7-A06 , OK2C6-15-205 , 16401-01010 , YF5H8100AA , 21430-79901 , 16401-50070 , 19045PR3003 , 45153AC030 , 533014201 , RS87 , 2533021000 , 16401-08010 , 16401-50050 , 21430-50A00 , 1640150071 , D316-15-205 , E92H8100AB , F57Z8100A , RS-87 , 1640150050 , 21430-01F02 , 2533017000 , E8BZ 8100 A

Qty:
$6.25
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi Late
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mazda B2000 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Stant
1986 Mazda B2000 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-415170A    10229  New

D2VY 8K103 A , 3M12 , C23860 , 19045-692-003 , ER12 , D2VY8100A , 3EG165 , 129 , 2143089994 , WC-14 , 19045634003 , WR16 , MB008101 , 2143089906 , 8871-15-205 , A57167 , A61784 , RC12 , 21430-10600 , BC12 , 77-513 , WA14 , 19045692003 , RS-77 , 21430M0200 , RS512A , 620202 , 127 , 1640142010 , J3239375 , 9281062570 , 1686107 , RS77 , MB221633 , ZZL015205 , D2VY8K103A , 229623921 , 299623921 , 164013601172 , 2143089900 , 1640760010 , 1640134010 , 1338045 , RC19 , RC45 , 16401-40120 , 1640160040 , RS-50A , WC14 , 171111200 , 6682274 , ZZL0-15-205 , 928 106 257 03 , 16401-42010 , 1640150010 , 16401-23070 , RS-16 , 312121321E , WA-14 , 133-8045 , RS16 , 21430U9600 , 0361865 , D8RZ8100A , 7701018380 , 82929 , DR16 , 1640123070 , DR-12 , T13 , 21430J6200 , P12 , S-12 , 2533014201 , RS50 , 21430-89907 , 130660 , P13 , RS6 , 16401-41020 , M-13 , E5TZ 8100 A , 16401-50010 , 21430-89900 , RA-14 , 17111100848 , CP-12 , 2143089902 , 25330-14201 , E7RY8100A , MB007571 , 1570172030 , 2143089990MP , 17111262051 , E9RY8100A , U95-4110 , 1640120010 , RS-40 , 2993-23-921 , 16401-36011 , 533014202 , 46010 , 299323921 , DR12 , 0766-15-205 , E2DZ 8100 A , 745124020 , 2143089905 , 16401-50010-73 , WC12 , 21430-89905 , SE0115205 , WR-16 , 076615205 , 1330143 , PA14 , 036-1865 , 3M13 , 2143089901 , 1640160010 , BR-13 , BR-16 , 123 , R-29 , 3M16 , M13 , RA-19 , 10229 , 2981-15-205 , 5364692 , 16401-36011-72 , C9AZ 8100 A , D8RZ 8100 A , 703-1697 , BC13 , RC9 , 645012012 , 19045-PA0-014 , ER27 , CP12 , 3241241 , DR-31 , 53-10694 , 21430-89990-MP , 048815205 , 33030 , A14 , J3246241 , D7ZZ 8100 A , P-13 , RS-32 , 21430U0100 , RS12A , ER-16 , E5TZ8100A , CH10427 , 2296-23-921 , 92810625703 , L954039 , 21430-C0500 , MB007900 , 2996-23-921 , RR22 , PA-14 , 645012051 , E9TZ8100A , RS-52 , 7031697 , RS-512A , D2RY8100B , 83502502 , 46031 , 3220313 , DR-16 , E7RY-8100-A , 6635784 , 7257668 , 31527 , 083915350 , 1640141020 , 025121321 , 1640140120 , L95-4004 , 133-8052 , 6410457 , 25330-11415 , 17111712669 , WC-16 , 12R5 , S12 , 663240 , 3187167 , 2143089907 , RC-22 , BC-13 , RR-29 , 16401-34010 , 21430-M0200 , 133-8078 , F2UZ8K103A , CP-13 , U954110 , ER16 , 21430-89902 , M-16 , E9RY 8100 A , 21430C0500 , E5TH8100A , RS50A , WR12 , RS41 , RC-16 , 21430-89901 , MA152550 , D7ZZ8100A , P-12 , BR-12 , 912609 , DR-13 , 7013 , RS-12A , RC6 , D27Z8100A , ER-27 , 3-M-12 , 745153010 , BR13 , 21430-89906 , RR12 , S16 , RC-12 , 2143010600 , RS-6 , DR13 , 53-10660 , 19045PA0014 , 1640141021 , WC13 , 1502172631 , WR-12 , 0839-15-350 , 0488-15-205 , 022251255 , 46007 , 16401-41021 , ER-13 , 17110152374 , 21430-U9600 , 16401-50010-72 , R29 , 21430-89994 , 16401-20010 , RA14 , MB007298 , 17 11 1 712 492 , 028121453 , RC16 , RS62 , 028 121 453 , 887115205 , 77513 , 1610771 , RC22 , D1TZ8100A , 25060143 , RR-22 , 00861125 , D2VY 8100 A , 164015001073 , 16401-60040 , 33000866 , D27Z 8100 A , 1640141010 , 16401-41010 , RC-19 , 3-EG-165 , J3239819 , RC-6 , 3-M-16 , RS-62 , M16 , 164015001072 , CP13 , 6673313 , RS40 , 16401-60010 , RR29 , SE01-15-205 , RC-45 , 2239643 , A-14 , 1338052 , RS-50 , 1640136011 , ER-19 , MB721633 , 21430-U0100 , 3-M-13 , RS52 , L954004 , C9ZZ 8100 A , M-12 , 1338078 , R12 , BR16 , 1326012 , 1640136010 , 133-0143 , ER-12 , 5310660 , BR12 , 16407-60010 , 3239375 , WC-13 , E2DZ8100A , 928 106 257 0 , 645012021 , 2143089990 , WC-12 , T-13 , 5310694 , 21430-J6200 , ER13 , 6410292 , RC-9 , D2RY 8100 B , MB007570 , 17 11 0 152 374 , D1TZ 8100 A , D2TZ8100A , 6646678 , RS32 , RS-41 , L95-4039 , WC16 , 66-3240 , ER19 , RA19 , RR16 , 16401-36010 , 298115205 , RR-12 , E5TH 8100 A , M12 , 87749607 , RR-16 , 2533011415 , D2TZ 8100 A , C9ZZ8100A , RS12 , RS-12 , 21430-89990 , E9TZ 8100 A , C9AZ8100A , BC-12 , DR31 , 17111712492

Qty:
$5.24
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 13 psi Early
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mazda B2000 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Stant
2011 Mazda 6 Radiator Cap 4 Cyl 2.5L Stant - OE Type Radiator Cap

P311-4D1579C    10265  New

ST37 , 8S4Z 8100 B , 8S4Z8100A , 8S4Z8100B , 7031735 , T-18R , 703-1735 , L3R415205 , 31562 , 33084 , T18R

Qty:
$6.17
Stant Radiator Cap
  • ; Pressure Rating 18 psi
  • OE Type Radiator Cap
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mazda 6 L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488

Latest Mazda Repair and Radiator Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Basf76 on 2003 MAZDA Tribute Overheating...Please Help

2003 Mazda Tribute, V6, 110,000 miles. ( Mazda Tribute is the same as Ford Escape And Mercury Mariner)

Overheating Happened on 23 Dec 2012
Checked:
Coolant - reservoir full but cold
Oil - levels are good
Cooling Hoses - no leaks but still cold as if coolant is not flowing through the engine
* Blows cool air through interior vents when turning on the heater during overheating
* Can drive it for 10 minutes before it starts to overheat

Please help...thank you in advance

Response From Basf76

Just back from the shop, they are 100% sure that the waterpump went out and needs replacement because no coolant was flowing and the vents was blowing cool air when turning on th heater.

Went to Rockauto.com and bought new waterpump, waterpump belt and thermostat for safe measure. Labor is going to cost me $220 install everything...sounds about right? Thanks again...

Response From Ajharris

My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Hammer Time

Please don't hijack other people;s questions.'


Read the FORUM RULES before posting.

Response From Sidom

Well, overheating that fast after start does suggest a flow a problem...

I would remove or hollow out the T stat and see if that makes a difference.....No matter what you find you are going to what to change out the stat since you've overheated the system...If it still overheats then you are going to want to look at the pump..

If you can locate the inlet heater hose, you can remove that a run the engine to see if you are getting flow...If you have a bad impellar then there will be little to no flow....If the pump is good then make sure you have a good extention hose on the heater hose and a good way to contain the coolant or you will have a big mess to deal with.....

Response From Hammer Time

Nobody has pressure tested this system yet. It is full of air and that coolant went somewhere. Even a totally closed thermostat is not going to make the heater cold.

Response From Sidom

I may have misread this but it looks like the OP had the overheating problem, then checked the system and it was full....

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I was thinking that this system had a separate radiator cap but I see it has a pressurized bottle. I've seen a few of these DOHC engines with the impellers rotted off the water pump.

Response From Basf76

Thanks everyone for the help, I will be taking this to the shop today and I will update you on what they say. Do you guys recommend system diagnostics to be performed? Last thing @ Sidom, you are correct that the coolant is not going anywhere as levels never changes, the reservoir and the radiator hose is cool to the touch when the car is overheated. Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

It probably has air pockets in the system but it doesn't sound like you have even found the initial leak yet. You need to pressure test the system to finds the leaks and repair them.

Response From Basf76

Thanks for the suggestion but I have no leaks. I have been told maybe the thermostat is stuck on closed or my water pump may have gave out.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you don't know that at all. The system needs to be pressure tested before doing anything else.

Response From Discretesignals

If you don't find any leaks through pressure testing, you could have a water pump failure. If it is the original, it isn't uncommon for the plastic impeller to separate from the shaft. If the thermostat was stuck closed and you had no air in the system, your heater would still be blowing hot.

2000 Mazda b3000 cabplus temporarily over heating

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Question From Phil1992 on 2000 Mazda b3000 cabplus temporarily over heating

For about two years every once in a while my temp gage in my truck will show it overheating for less than 30 second and then go back in the middle and be normal for the rest of the ride. In that time I had the radiator and water pump replaced and I changed the thermostat twice to try to fix the problem and none of this worked. What happens is within maybe the first 15 minutes of driving the gage spikes up and then goes back to normal and doesn't do it again for the whole ride. Sometimes when I park and look under the hood the antifreeze overfill lid will be popped off and you can tell that antifreeze was shooting out of the overfill. The hose to the thermostat is also always tight and not squeezable. My mechanic thinks its the head gasket but I cant see it being that. Its been happening almost every time I drive it from cold now. It seems like a thermostat problem, but I'm not sure. If anyone can help me it would be much appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

How about if you let it idle and come up to operating temp while your watching what is going on under the hood. You may be able to put a big funnel on the radiator and then watch what happens with the coolant as it come up to operating temp. You should also feel the temperature of the hoses and the air blowing from the radiator fan change as the thermostat opens.



Response From Phil1992

I have let it idle before and warm up for like 10/15 min and from what I remember it doesn't do it when idling. My mechanic told me to check the radiator once a week and fill it up when needed and to not go by the expansion tank, but to me it seems like a pressure build up, I'll do it tomorrow and check the hoses and fan. To me if it was a head gasket leak wouldnt the truck always overheat

Response From Discretesignals

Usually, yes. If combustion gases are getting into the coolant system because of a head gasket issue, it will basically over heat because those gases will displace the coolant in the system and create air pockets. You'll also notice the heater doesn't blow hot air when that happens. Another indicator is if you see lots of bubbles in your funnel. You can try the block tester kit to see if you have a leak. Sometimes those block testers can be inconclusive though. Has your mechanic tested for combustion gasses in the coolant system?

If you keep having to add coolant to the radiator, you probably have an external or internal leak going on. Has your mechanic pressure tested the coolant system when the engine is cold to see if there are any leaks? Another trick to see if coolant is leaking into combustion chambers is to pressurize the system overnight with the spark plugs removed. If you see coolant laying ontop of a piston after it has sat, good bet you have head gasket issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rare but possible for quick, temporary overheats:
Lower Radiator hose.............
/
Check this without pressure and while cool. Is it real squishy on larger, longer area? An issue can happen with strong water pump, high RPM and load on cooling system that suddenly gets cooled with t-stat wide open pressure of pressure cap is lost for a short while and this hose squishes shut tight - no flow, fast overheat which expands it to look normal in a second. Was common with long lower hoses so they put a spring inside such that they couldn't collapse.
New hose if so almost certainly didn't come with a spring if used at all? You put the old one in the new hose now.


Said, it's somewhat rare but was a reason for sudden real overheats then fine like you described and all would check out fine.


Very few you can see it do it revving engine and looking at that hose. Even if not required OE and hose is good I'd put one in.


For 20+ years can't find dang hose springs new so have a collection from junked assorted vehicles on hand just for this, put them in anyway on certain vehicles if a long hose especially and worked hard in warm/hot weather especially,


T


T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I went round and round with the "spring in the hose issue" with a parts supplier. The new hose on a vehicle I was working on didn't come with the spring in the hose. The old coil of wire was rotted out. What I ended up finding out is that the spring is used during factory vacuum filling of the coolant system when the vehicle is on the assembly line. Other than that the spring serves no other purpose.

If your sucking the hose shut as the pump is spinning faster, you have some sort of restriction going on. If the hose collapses when the engine cools off, you have a problem with the radiator cap or a restriction in the coolant reserve tank. The hose can't collapse any how because normally the coolant system is under pressure when at operating temp.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Understood DS. I said "rare" - it was then and would be now. Those that were clear enough you could watch it do it, grab the hose, no spring in it, put one in or buy a new hose that ALWAYS had a new spring - problem over.


So.......... They clearly are not needed for a lot of reasons on many. Hoses aren't as long or large and more molded which is by itself harder to squish shut.


There's the smaller hose on that too? I'd have to follow that to know why it's there and from what. I suspect a return hose from heater but hardly makes sense unless this thing was made without a heater or something. I can't see where I by-pass concept to keep coolant all the same temp would use that at all for that purpose?


IDK and apparently some who've looked at it aren't so sure no surprises sometimes with that either. It was the sudden blast of overheat that caught my attention. Flash boil enough to blow a cap off recovery tank! What could do that then calm down later?


I'd be hunting for reasons. Head gasket would be first but like you said it would do it almost every time. Never saw one heal for a while then just do that and quit it.


Do we know (OP do you?) is this full of sealer or something to confuse a good diagnosis?


T

Response From Discretesignals

Sometimes if you have air pockets in the system, it will do odd things like the OP is having. Putting a funnel on there and running the engine till the T stat is open and squeezing on the hoses will probably get rid of pockets. Even when doing a vacuum refill on most vehicles, I put the big yellow funnel on and run the engine to purge air. Amazing what air will find its way into.

Car over heating very quickly

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Question From atsproperty on Car over heating very quickly

1993
Mazda
929
v6 24 valve
93,000 miles

I bought a car that had had the fan clutch go out and the fan went into the radiator.
What I have done-
replaced fan clutch
had radiator fixed and flushed
replaced the bottom thermostat and new thermostat housing

I also replaced spark plugs and new belts(fyi)

put it all back together and filled up radiator and drove a 2 block radius and the temp went to redline that fast.
now any car ive ever worked on has always had the thermostat on top...there is a top radiator hose so is there a top thermostat?
the housing on top looks about half the size of a typical thermostat housing with a elctric wiring going into top of it.
Hope I have described my situation well enough.
Please reply..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You gotta help me - is this critter RWD? Fan clutches - those that attach to water pumps were common on RWD vehicles and yes when failed could take out your radiator or worse. It may have seriously hurt the water pump or it isn't actually full of coolant yet are high on the list if this is the layout I'm thinking it must be by your description.

To add to that. Not many radiators were fixable even in '93 and that could be an issue as well,

T

Response From atsproperty

RWD - rear wheel drive?
Yes it is rear wheel drive.
I took the radiator to a radiator shop and had it fixed..it just had one pin hole in it.
it could be the fluid level..I used only water at this point incase it didnt fix the leak I didnt want to waste anti freeze.
is there something in the top thermostat housing the could be froze up?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Gotta guess 'cause I don't know the car. If a pin hole could be fixed then great and doubt that's it. If thermostat could be put in backwards that could be the problem - most won't go in wrong.

Water is fine for a test and should work but when known good get antifreeze mix in right away. Filling cooling systems vary by how much of a pill they can be to really be full. Generally by the time the heater works there's adequate coolant but who knows for sure? It should be a "closed" system with recovery tank right off of radiator cap such that air pushes out and only liquid returns. Just filling a recovery tank isn't the way to fill a system. Must be full in the engine and over time it would purge out small amounts or air.

Of course air isn't a good heat exchanger, liquid is.

What you need to do is verify cooling system is full first and avoid any overheating. Last bit if this doesn't require tricks will be stable when level quits dropping and you need to warm it up till there's pressure and t-stat has opened then let cool down a few or more times OR pull a high up hose and fill from there on some. Should require it but now with more PITA vehicles to fill the system is put under vacuum and filled that way.

If the pressure cap is on recovery tank it will be a pest. If on radiator it's better. Some, and this is trickery without tons of equipment may respond to jacking up the car such that the fill cap (check that it works too) is the highest point.

In that this overheated so quickly my first bet is that it isn't really full of liquid water or not. Hope that in overheating no head gasket issues are in play with this too,

T

Response From atsproperty

ok I'll double check the fluid level of radiator and run it til the thermostat should open a nd close a few times.
I think I will remove top housing to see if anything is seized up. (there has to be some kind of coolant flow because there is a top
radiator hose... also couldnt i run the car with rad. cap off to watch for flow?

p.s. when I return in a few days to give update on this thread will the thread post back at the top of the page or will it be lost in the hundreds of post
to come?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, in some system with rad caps you can see it flow once t-stat is open. (WATCH OUT IF IT GOES NUTS AND BLOWS STEAM AT YOU!) Just FYI - I'm here a lot but not 24/7 so others may catch this or I could be late to reply,

T

Response From atsproperty

Ok update : Today I took off the housing that is attached to the upper radiator hose. it has 3 electric connections with what I assume is some type of temperature sensors going into this housing. Cleaned it out just a little rusty but there is one small hose coming off this going to another part of the car and it was filled with thick dark grim. I cleaned out this hose and put things back together. I added about 1 1/4 gallons of antifreeze until it wouldnt take anymore. I started the 93 mazda 929 v6 with out the radiator cap on it. ran the car for about 5 to 7 minutes at idle only but with the air conditioner turn on high. at this time im watching the flow and at about the 7th minute its bouncing and spalshing out of the open port of the radiator. the temp gauge at this point is slightly over half way up.
At this time I turned off the car looked around to see if there are any leaks but dont see any. I put the radi cap back on and started up the car and let it idle after just a few minutes with the air on and idle only its creeping up the temp gauge and once it topped the white line I shut it off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Smacks of exhaust gasses getting into cooling system and game over for head gaskets or more................

T

Response From atsproperty

what? Im sorry I dont understand that. There is no oil in the water/antifreeze I know that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Doesn't have to express itself that way. Anything it (they seal) can leak anyway they seal. If you don't know that then put the wrenches down!

T

1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating

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Question From watson316 on 1994 Mazda Protege - Overheating

Hello All! How's it goin'? Good, I hope. I have a 1994 Mazda Protege that has been all kinds of trouble lately. First I noticed a crack had developed on the plastic top of my radiator, along the groove there below the cap. So I put in some stop leak as a temporary solution. It worked for awhile until my car got a little hot one day and a little 50/50 coolant-water spewed out. During this time I also had a really squeaky drivebelt. The belt had been slipping for awhile, but like an idiot I just kept putting belt dressing on it and putting off fixing it.

So anyway, I just had to keep coolant in the car because of the leak thru the crack. On my way to work about a week ago, the squeaky belt finally came off. When it did my car got really hot. Rising in temperature while I was driving. Luckily, I made it to work but when I got there I noticed the other drivebelt was on the verge of sliding off also. So I went ahead and had both of them replaced. That seemed to help keep the car cool also.

So as long as I keep the radiator and coolant reservoir full, there are no problems besides a little steam coming from the crack in my radiator. BUt I have to keep filling it up with water even though not that much leaks out thru the crack. I was even stuck in an awful traffic jam a couple of nights ago for 4 hours (There was a bad winterstorm). Not once during that entire time did my temperature gauge move up past the normal range (about halfway).

But this morning, before I left for work I topped off the radiator and reservoir and cranked the car and let it run about 20 minutes to warm up. But when I got going down the road it started running hot. I pulled over and checked the reservoir and it was about 3/4 full. I opened the radiator itself and added water to fill it up. I then made my way to work and the temp. gauge still tried to rise a little over half full.

When I left work I filled it back up and the gauge started to rise, then suddenly it the gauge went down, even floating a little below normal. After that it didn't come anywhere near going past halfway. When I got home there wasn't even any steam coming out of the crack. So what gives?

I'm figuring (I have EXTREMELY limited automotive knowledge), based on what I've read, that there is either a problem with the electrical fan, the water pump, or the termostat (just had it replaced a few months ago). Any ideas?

Response From Dieselrotor Top Rated Answer

hey Watson, Hammer time is absolutely right. The very first thing to do is replace the radiator, "BUT" and I hate to say it. You have to know if buying a radiator for a car that may have further unseen damage is really worth it. saying that, what I mean is. Since the engine was overheated, You may want to check to see that there was no head gasket damage done before putting money into it. What that involves is- If You are comfortable with doing a simple test (witch unfortuneately will cost You a few dollars before hand "not much" but a few) that involves buying a kit that tests for carbon monoxide in the coolant, Witch will tell You if You have a head gasket letting compressed fuel through into the coolant. Witch means head gasket and worst case, coolant in the oil.
Anyway. This test is easy. When You buy the tester it looks like a big turkey baster You fill with a blue chemical and once the vehicle is up to opperating temp' With the radiator cap CAREFULLY removed or even left off during warmup(ps.if the cap is left off during warm up and You see that coolant is being continually pushed out, That may be a sign of a head gasket leak) You place the baster into the coolant neck holding it upright as You can, You squeeze the bulb on top and draw ONLY air into the tester. No coolant, only air. You are trying to get a sample of the air quality in the radiator. If the sample chemical turns yellow, you have a gasket leak. ETC.ETC. And You should at all cost always if possible use only Glycol water mix to refill, always. water just does not transfer heat as well as glycol. If You are lucky and no damage has been done,,,, You may (may) be able to (arghhh) fix You're radiator. If the problem was not caused by overpreassure in the first place. I hate to say it (hate) . but if You really can not afford to get a new radiator. You can sand down the area around the crack (last ditch effort and the area has to be dry. DRY.and prefferably room temp. ) fill the crack with (again AAARRRGGGHHH) J.B weld. I would rather resort to this than put "Clog an engine" (stop leak) into You're coolant system. You have to wonder about You're coolant pump Too? But most important You have to know if there is overpreassureing going on. A long book and I am sorry and have proabaly skipped a few things but I hope this helps.

Response From watson316

Thanks guys for your input. I really appreciate it. I put JB Weld on the crack last night. This morning I drained the radiator and refilled it with coolant/water (50/50). Hopefully that will last until I can replace the radiator. I had put JB Weld on it a week or so ago but I don't think I put it on thick enough because it still leaked. I'll go ahead and test the head gasket too.

I drained the radiator and block a week or so ago to get the stop leak out and put in fresh coolant. When I refilled it I left the cap off while it warmed up and in the process of warming up it kept pushing coolant out until finally the coolant when down. So a bad head gasket is very possible. Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge. Take care.............

Response From watson316

Also, even though my radiator is cracked and the temp. gauge has risen alot, it hasn't completely overheated yet. Luckily, I was able to keep it from going all the way up. So hopefully no serious damage was done other than the radiator and maybe the head gasket. But thanks again, guys.

Response From Dieselrotor

Yes, no problem. And do not be too downhearted by the coolant being pushed out especially after draining and refilling radiator, Getting coolant past the thermostat is usually dificult and until it opens, coolant will be dejected from block by water pump. usually fill the return hose first (labor intensive) so coolant is also on back side of thermostat.
Hope all goes well and congrads on takeing things into You're hands. Shows ambition. And while on the subject, make sure t-stat is opening, just a thought.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I know you are in between a rock and a hard place with this. Unless dangerously hot where you are (send some here if so) two things you can do to limp and not make things worse if it already hasn't happened.

1. Cut a pie wedge out of lower rubber of radiator cap such that it won't build up pressure as it was just leaking it out anyway. That will slow a leak by itself and then you will need a new cap later.

2. Put heater on. I not dangerously hot for you when it goes cool/cold you are too low on coolant and or overheating - viola! Good warning even if gauge is within range doesn't mean something isn't going wrong. Gauge could be late if sensing air. Do check the oil. Running hot can make it use more even if it never did. If milky there's probably troubles beyond the radiator now. No sealer really can fix that and avoid that as they tend to cause more harm than good. I use it once in a while but just a tablespoon. If that doesn't do it - gotta fix it.

* Have you priced a used radiator? Better than a known cracked one and some places test them out - ask.

Good luck,

T

Response From Hammer Time

If you haven't done it already, your real close to taking out your engine.
There is no susch thing as "mechanic in a can" and adding stop leaks will serve to do nothing but plug up your system. A cracked radiator is the fastest route to a blown engine that you can find. Nothing short of a new radiator will repair it. I also don't know what part of the country your are in but there aren/t many places that you will get away with adding water in December without it freezing.

When your temp gauge stops climbing, it's not good news. It means you have run out of coolant and it's probably too late.

Response From watson316

Thanks for your response. I realize I need to get a new radiator. I'm getting it replaced ASAP. Just don't have the money right now. But could a bad fan, water pump, or thermostat have caused the radiator to crack in the first place? I'd hate to replace the radiator and it still overheat. Just need to know what else I need to have checked.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey - if you are keeping the car you need the radiator fixed or replaced with a known leak as pressure testing would be futile.

I know $ is tight for lots of folks - you'll have a lot less if engine blows over this,

T

Tiny bubbles in overflow tank but passes Block Tester?

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Question From Fur Trader on Tiny bubbles in overflow tank but passes Block Tester?

2000 Nissan Maxima VQ30DEK (3 liter V6), just hit 170k miles.

Relevant history: new radiator back in October - car is a rebuilt front-end wreck, dirt-lot rebuilder installed AC hard line rubbing on radiator, lasted 3.5 years until it rubbed through and began to drip. Driveway stains alerted me before any overheating.

Current status: So it got hot after a long freeway run, coasted home with gauge high but not at limit. Let it cool and dude where's my coolant.

Refill rad, burp, repeat.
Check for fans, they run and are loud on these cars.
Mark level on overflow tank, see it's higher after driving - so coolant is getting pushed into overflow tank until it overflows. No coolant left to cool, doh!

Observe tiny bubbles in overflow tank. Excess in tank does not suck back in during cool down.

New thermostat, new rad cap, more filling and burping (am now pro-level Maxima cooling system burper) - but it still does bubbles and pushes out.

Rent block tester and buy fluid, run test on overflow tank - negative. Run test on radiator BUT when cold, not warm, negative but doubt validity of test. I don't dare let this thing get warm with the cap off.

Drive for an hour at less than 70, few bubbles but no pushing into overflow tank. Take it up to 80mph for a few miles and get some push out. Also ambient temps 101 F, is Texas.

Don't really want to do the head gaskets. I hate working on FWD V6s and feel dumb for buying one even if it does haul butt (especially when cold and on 93 octane!). Also, current financial state is one of low liquidity. Thankfully we didn't sell wife's old car so I have backup transportation, rusty Mazda Protege5 with half the power and twice the handling of the Maxima.

Might try the fancy $40 nano-fiber-magic head gasket sealer bottle, but have read horror stories of dead motors with clogged coolant passages from them.

Thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time

Might try the fancy $40 nano-fiber-magic head gasket sealer bottle, but have read horror stories of dead motors with clogged coolant passages from them.

Bad idea.

Response From Fur Trader

What's driving me mad is really the negative block test, no hydrocarbons detected. What the heck else causes tiny bubbles and overpressure? No leaks or noise from waterpump, which is hard to reach being behind the timing chain under some access plates.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

What's driving me mad is really the negative block test, no hydrocarbons detected. What the heck else causes tiny bubbles and overpressure? No leaks or noise from waterpump, which is hard to reach being behind the timing chain under some access plates.


Those fluid detectors are total inclusive and only show positive when it's so bad it's completely obvious. The only real accurate way to test is to use an exhaust analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator cap.

Another DIY trick is to put a latex glove around the filler cap tightly and run the engine. If the glove inflates, that's a pretty good indication of gases getting in.

Response From Fur Trader

Holy crap you guys.
After reading your replies this morning two things pinged together in my brain:
A) Tom's pointing out that the lack of coolant being sucked back in from overflow tank during cool-down is a clue, and
B) Hammer's trick of putting latex glove over filler cap to see if it inflates.

The ping result was: what if the coolant overflow tank is not airtight? I know it looks old and faded.

So, while leaving for work I popped the hood of the Maxima and examined the reservoir. On top, there's several patches that are bleached white and have spidercracks in them. Aha! Then I pushed on one with my finger to see if the cracks would open. See photo for result of that test.
Calling around to junkyards now for a replacement.
Kinda kicking myself, I have been messing with this tank for days and ignoring it's poor condition.

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think that is your problem. The reservoir is not designed to be air tight. It is actually vented. You should use a coolant pressure tester to make sure you don't have any leaks and you should follow HT's advice on finding out if there is combustion gasses in the coolant system.

Response From Fur Trader

Will do. I have a local shop near my work with top-notch customer service, I'll have them run pro-level sniffer test.
But first I have to replace the broken tank, there's chunks of disintegrating plastic floating in it now. It crumbled like a pastry!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That tank isn't pressurized sport some have the pressure cap on that - this doesn't. Fine, it's bad but you said it was holding a level and wouldn't drop or draw that back in which is probably the second part of the real problem. Junk all floating around now or all of a sudden is probably debris from a very harmed engine - guess.


If gas test was done at that broken tank which is an iffy test to begin with it's the wrong place with a bad tank so no surprise that didn't help,


T

Response From Fur Trader

Pretty sure the junk is from me poking my finger through the crumbly tank, I haven't got any oil sheen or debris from the engine in there. I actually siphoned out that tank into a clean bucket when I was doing the block tester test Sunday, because it was almost filled to the top, and reused the clean-looking coolant when I was done. Never noticed the cracks during.

Also wondering about too thick of a mix. Have so many random half-empty jugs of coolant laying around (replaced this Maxima's and the Mazda's radiators like a month apart last year!).

Response From Hammer Time

Your block tester is not going to work on a non-pressurized tank. It has to be done at the radiator.

Response From Fur Trader

Well it's official. Took it to my trusted shop and they did the Block Tester correctly - confirmed BHG.

It's also nearly a grand cheaper to have them swap in a used motor than it would be to have them do the head gaskets.
The local yards are advertising these motors at around $450ish. I may swap it myself, though making room in my garage may be more work than the actual swap.
Also tempted to upgrade to a later VQ35 mill for more horsies & torques, though that means tranny and ECU also.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From just your subject line this SCREAMED of a blown head gasket! You decide on another engine or fix what's there. I wouldn't ever get a whole used engine that wasn't an exact match - enough troubles already with this.
That recovery tank needs replacing if that brittle but think it was working as a tank if not leaking at the bottom parts.


IMO - somehow the plastic got way too hot to be brittle like that. Most never do that without trauma.


You now know the problem or are convinced so choose your plan of fix carefully,


T

Response From Fur Trader

I'm also toying with selling the car for a few hundred bucks as-is. I do need a truck.
~
I had figured the plastic of my overflow bottle had been heat-damaged in the past, until I poked my finger through the three more in one junkyard (a Maxima, an Altima, and an I35). Oddly, the same weak point on mine and the others is right under the hood gap. Granted, those cars may have also landed in the yard due to BHG! The yard had spraypainted a red X on the Max motor but the other two are available.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - You seem to have answered this on your own now knowing ONE lousy issue to get thru.


Your call, My thoughts: It was a salvaged cobbled car from the get go and you really would rather have a truck. Well, now is the perfect time to get what you can and do search out what it's worth just as it is and don't waste more money on it if not ever wanted so you just said.


You may be surprised as what parts that are still good can be worth to a salvage yard - interior stuff if any good hard to come by if still good. Glass, doors, body metal and so on. Then when plucked of anything useful just it's metal squished is worth some bucks!


Whole cars can fetch assorted scrap values - check around. If one nearby and it still will run they will (do where I am) make an offer on the spot - here need proof it belongs to you of course.


The choice is that and possibly a very costly fix of this one or cut losses now and move on to a vehicle you do want more. What would it be worth without the problem now vs having it? Just do the math.


You even thought of changing this to another engine I think you meant. NO! This is still and OBDII vehicle. The hassles of alterations on this salvaged already car would be an endless nightmare.


Whole engines at junk yards: Did that for many. Wanted to see why the vehicle was available and hopefully just a wreck and still could run it. My own local yard would then test all they could and provide a compression test, known miles and a list of checks and save them or like you said the Red X - just forget that one. Let those be "core" parts if they are in demand for the exact motor.


Hey - cutting losses IS SAVING $$ so do the math.


With all that I'd move on and spend time and effort on the next thing that you want, not this one,


T

Response From Fur Trader

Good points, thank you Tom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yea - Really think NOT wasting good money on this one is the choice.
Vehicles are a hole you always just pour $$ into no matter how you cut it.
Best bets for next: Really take your time and check out the next, even pay for it to have a pro go thru it to find any possible hidden problems BEFORE putting dime down on it. If a seller doesn't allow screams move on to another.


Start off with the best possible thing including that you plain like it and serves the purposes you want or need it for. This one fails on all fronts if it was new doesn't seem like you'd keep it long.


Good luck with what you do or get. If not totally a new vehicle with long total warranty there will probably be something to do soon enough.


No joke. The effort and even paying more for exactly what you will know you'll like and isn't a know POS by design is the best way to not lose as much. They all are money pigs,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from top post">>Excess in tank does not suck back in during cool down."


Just that suggests either hose from radiator to tank isn't tight and sucks back air not coolant or cap isn't holding pressure for some reason even though a new one.


With zero pressure you'll boil over beating on this thing especially at high ambient temps it's not going to take that. That would blow out bubbles alone and is overheating but if system isn't tight is not going to draw back coolant or cap maybe never held pressure. Pressure test anyway system and cap.


Block test failure doesn't rule out head gasket IMO. It was quite low on coolant and running hot by gauge you said so in the territory for trouble.


Air left in systems when drained doesn't all come out usually for several drive cycles of cold to fully warm but if it can't draw back coolant it drawing back air so even if you had it full is isn't after first drive.


Head gasket(s) not ruled out yet. Things to check and do:
*Antifreeze not too strong - check it. More than 50/50 will not transfer heat well and be the cause of overheat if way too strong.
*If not holding pressure boiling point is still too close to plain water. Read antifreeze container it says raises boiling point but also says with a working 15lb pressure cap(system) also which is most of it.
* If blowing gasses into cooling system most would pressure up and you'd feel upper hose fill with pressure fast from cold start up before it had time to warm up - damning clue of head gasket.


DON'T USE A SEALER OF ANY KIND unless you are buying time to get it to a salvage yard again. It won't fix a head gasket and will clog things up,


T