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Idemitsu
2007 Pontiac Vibe Power Steering Fluid 4 Cyl 1.8L Idemitsu - IDEMITSU ATF Type TLS

P311-549EA9E    30040093-75000C020  New

Qty:
12.11
  • ; Capacity unlisted OE Manufacturer
  • IDEMITSU ATF Type TLS
Brand: Idemitsu
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Pontiac Vibe L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1794
Idemitsu
2007 Pontiac Vibe Power Steering Fluid 4 Cyl 1.8L Idemitsu - IDEMITSU ATF Type TLS

P311-3AAF2DB    30040093-95300C020  New

Qty:
36.34
  • ; Capacity unlisted OE Manufacturer
  • IDEMITSU ATF Type TLS
Brand: Idemitsu
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Pontiac Vibe L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1794
Eneos
2004 Pontiac Vibe Power Steering Fluid 4 Cyl 1.8L Eneos - Synthetic oil

P311-0B15973    3111-300  New

Qty:
11.79
Eneos Power Steering Fluid
  • ECO ATF Plus, PN 3111-300
  • ; ENEOS ECO ATF Plus; 1 x 1 qt; Filling capacity: 0.793 US quarts ; Application temperature: year-round; ENEOS ECO ATF Plus
  • ENEOS ECO-ATF PLUS Automatic Transmission Fluid Dexron VI, Mercon LV 1qt.
  • Synthetic oil
  • Product Attributes:
    • :
      • -47
      • 220
      • N
      • Y
    • API Rating: Atf
    • Prop 65 Yes/No: Y
    • Title: Eneos Eco-atf Plus 1qt
  • ENEOS ECO-ATF PLUS is a fuel efficient, low viscosity automatic transmission fluid that meets the ATF needs for many Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Hyundai/Kia GM and Ford vehicles. ECO-ATF PLUS provides improved fuel economy, high resistance to mechanical shear and fatigue, and wide-ranging compatibility with Asian OEMs, Dexron? VI, Mercon? LV, and other American and European vehicle specifications. PN 3111-300.
Brand: Eneos
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Pontiac Vibe FWD L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1794

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Grand Am occasional noise when turning

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gared5991 on 2002 Grand Am occasional noise when turning

I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se 2.2L and around November-December, the Rack and Pinion was replaced completely (last one was cracked and leaked power steering fluid). I noticed ever since then, I've still had to fill up the power steering fluid every other week. At first I thought it was just what normally happened, but it's the middle of March and I still have to refill it. And now, I'm noticing that (it does not happen every time I start my car. It happened today, and last time it happened was 4 days ago, before that was a few days prior) when I start my car sometimes and go to turn the wheel left, sometimes it will happen when I turn right, there will be a grinding noise like the power steering fluid is empty, even though it is full. When I shut my car off, let it sit for a second, and turn it back on, the grinding completely stops. The grinding sounds like there is no power steering fluid in the car, but the wheel turns easily. I know the CV joints are coming to a time where I need to replace them within the next month or so, give or take, but I don't know what is going on. Any ideas or things I could try?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Obviously, you have a power steering leak that you have to find and repair.

Pontiac G8 Steering Knock

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From jzpiano on Pontiac G8 Steering Knock

Need help with a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (6.0L) that currently has 23k on it. I'm getting a knocking coming from the car during certain points when turning the steering wheel. I took a video while turning the steering wheel back and forth about 10-15 degrees. Seemed like the noise was coming from the steering rack/column so I have removed a few components to get a good video of it. If I go lock to lock it will make the noise as well, but only at certain points. Any help would be appreciated.



Response From GC

Have you verified that the struts are not binding? Check any joints on the steering shaft for play. Feel the different components while a helper makes it clunk and see which you can feel a clunk in. Sorry dont have an easy answer.

Response From jzpiano

Strut mounts on this car are a known problem and were installed with polyurethane bushings for the entire car less than 2k miles ago. About 1k miles ago the struts were blown and had to be replaced and a set of coilovers was installed. I did try and feel around to see if I could "feel" the clunking. Thought it was coming from the steering rack which I pulled out of the car today. Everything there looks good.

Could it just be bad fluid?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Never heard of power steering fluid causing.


Before you had removed the rack, you could have disconnected the tie rods from the knuckles to eliminate struts problems. If the noise was still there after disconnecting the tie rods, then you could have disconnected the steering coupler and then rotated the steering rack pinion shaft by hand to see if the noise is definitely inside the rack or not.

Response From jzpiano

When I made the video the tie rods were off the car so that should eliminate that. Now that I have the rack off I've moved things by hand and everything feels smooth and I'm not getting any noise. I'm honestly stumped....

Response From Double J

There is a TSB out for this concern

Google TSB # 09-09-41-001

#09-09-41-001: Knock Noise from Steering Wheel While Turning (Apply Flocked Tape to Steering Wheel Inflatable Restraint Module) - (Mar 10, 2009)


Subject: Knock Noise from Steering Wheel While Turning (Apply Flocked Tape to Steering Wheel Inflatable Restraint Module)


Models: 2008-2009 Pontiac G8




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment about a knock noise coming from the steering wheel or the steering column when making turning maneuvers 90 degrees in either direction.

Cause
This condition may be caused by the steering wheel inflatable restraint module sliding from side to side, resulting in the knock noise. Decreasing the lateral clearance of the module locating pins will stop the knock.

Response From Discretesignals

Either you can install another rack and see if that was the problem or put the old one back in and start from scratch. If you decide you want to install another rack, you could take the old one apart to see if there is anything wrong with the pinion shaft gear or rack gear.

1998 Pontiac Sunfire power steering bleeding

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Scrapmetalman on 1998 Pontiac Sunfire power steering bleeding

I just fixed a leaking power steering return hose on a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. I can't get the system bleeded. I turned the wheel one side to the other, with the engine not running and the front wheels off the ground about 150-200 times (No joke!) but there are still bubbles coming up.... but strangely the fluid level is not going down. And of course the power steering does not operate properly. In fact no assistance under 2000 rpm. Except for the leak, the system was running fine before I fixed the hose. Any advice? I forgot to mention that the leak was under the passenger floor, where a metal pipe is running to cool down the fluid, which is the lowest point in the system...

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine?

Which return hose did you replace. The one to the pump from the cooler or the one from the rack to the cooler? If you have any air leaks on the return side of the system, you will continue getting air into the system.

You did you use hose that is rated for the return side of power steering system?

Response From Scrapmetalman

The engine is the 2.2l. In fact the part I fixed is the metal pipe section, under the passenger floor. I cutted the rotted portion and replaced with steel tube of the same size, with compression type fitting. I guess that air can't be sucked the system unless there is some vacuum in the line since it is the lowest point and if my fittings were leaking, it would allow fluid to run out when I leave it resting for a while... Am I wrong?

Response From Discretesignals

If there is any place that air can be drawn into the low side of the system including a loose hose clamp, degraded hose, and/or poor compression fitting install, air will end up in the system. If there is a leak on the high side of the system, you'll see it spray out when the system is under pressure. Some leaks on the low side can acts as check valves allowing air to get pulled in, but not fluid leak out.

Another thing to consider is the line was rotting out, so it is possible pieces of corroded metal could have cycled through the system. I would have made a new cooler if the old one was corroded instead of trying to patch it. Have you flushed the system out? Doesn't take much metal to plug up the regulator valve.

Response From Scrapmetalman

Only the portion were a rubber insulator was installed (to prevent the pipe to touch the floor) was rotted, only about 1 inch was bad and rest was still like new that's why I didn't replace the whole lenght. No I didn't flush the system. I've fixed many power seering hoses before and never get that much trouble! Thank you very much!

Response From Scrapmetalman

Well.... I suspected the fittings so took it all off and replaced it with gaz rubber hose with clamps instead. I flushed the system in the process. Same result. Looks like air is entering the system from somewhere else, but I can't find where. Everything is tight and in good shape, and nothing was wrong before I cut the cooler pipe and I didn't touch anything else. What confuses me also is that bubbles come up when I turn the wheel with the engine off, but no bubble when it's running and the fluid stays clear... I'm considering getting some compressed air through the cap opening, to build some pressure in the return hose to see if fluid is leaking... What do you think? If can't find any leak I'll replace the whole return line from rack to pump!

Response From Hammer Time

If the engine is run with the fluid low it will immediately get aerated and that will not clear up until the engine is shut off for a few hours and the air rises to the top. Then top it off and start it again. Repeat this until it doesn't need any more fluid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a note. Scrapmetalman - you said back when bleeding this up to 200 times with engine OFF? Did you need the exercise or what did you expect with it off? Let it allow air to rise as HT mentioned.


It should not be sucking air back in anywhere I can think of just existing air not purging out.


IDK but if PS fluid or if using ATF and staying any kind of foamy or aerated the fluid isn't helping, pump would just cavatate with little to no assist and may have wrecked it all depending on how long with what situation it's been exposed to, T

Response From Scrapmetalman

This morning I first checked under the car for leak, none was found. Then I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I started the engine and the power steering was working so I went for a test drive. It worked fine for about 200ft... I stopped and revved the engine to 2000 rpm, and power steering was working again so I turned the wheel side to side 2-3 times and release the gas pedal and it kept working. I drove another few hundreds feet and it when out again. The fluid stays clear (no foam) and the level is still ok.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Belt soaked with oil or not tight enough? Not sure but getting ready to blame the pump as next guess,


T

Response From Scrapmetalman

The belt is clean and tight. I think you're right, there must be something wrong with the pump. The car is not mine so I don't know how long it ran with low fluid level, but the girl who owns it said she checked and topped it everyday, and that it was still working ok when she drove the car to my place to fix the leak. But as Discretesignals said, some debris may have ended up into the fluid...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This kinda stinks in that it can work but is/was a bitch bleeding out? Debris likely from a failing pump being low on fluid one too many times and you end up with it on its last breath probably?


Sheeeet, now what to do as if fluid is now controlled and free to flow the loop thru rack which or both are the fix. Fortunately not all the expensive as things go. Under $50 for just the pump even one with the tank. Whole redone rack about $150 YOUR costs plus fluid and time + core charges for exchange no surprise there.


???? I think I'd toss the pump as it works cold for you and helps with high RPM. History of filling it every day is damning and how did she know if my guess is hearing it or lack of assist knew to fill it again or both. Throw in a chance of a wrong fluid used and really scratch your head too.


Not sure about this at all and even if witnessed I'd still be unsure. When failing can you hear or feel it strain at full turn (don't wail on it too much it's trouble enough already) and feel pump trying?


About now I don't think you CAN be sure but would try the pump for the price. Pulley could be a pest to swap otherwise not so bad for most and those were one item I loved to get used and whole out of a known working wreck,


T

Response From Scrapmetalman

I think you're right Tom. There is no way I can know how long she waited before topping the fluid. I've known her for a long time and I think she knows enough about cars not to put motor oil in a power steering pump! But can't be totally sure...

Anyways it seems that the pump was faulty. I took the one from another Sunfire with a bad engine I have here, installed it and now it works fine.

Thanks everyone for your help, I've learned a few things this weekend! Proof that we still have things to learn even after playing with cars for more than 20 years...


Scrapmetalman

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Didn't re-read whole thread but will make a call and you can blame me if wrong. #1 is to be up front with this person that there's room for failure short of throwing everything in sight out and then even some reman stuff has a failure rate.


Again, pump showed cheap enough to try that. Dunno how hard to take the sucker out but was about the same with tank or without one so get the one with tank. Core was $7 bucks. Keep old one for a while.


Hey - the reason I liked used for just these especially was I could go see the dang wreck and what/why it was junked. Great if you are out in what is a playland for me of cars crap finding parts just replaced before an owner gave up on whole car but clearly there for some other reason than the part(s) you wanted.


You have already spent more time farting around with this than the freaking $50 bucks is worth so something to be said for that too. Gotta do something or just give this little headache to someone else,


T

Response From Scrapmetalman Top Rated Answer

I just asked her and she said she poured nothing but power steering fluid in it, wich I beleive to be true. The repeated low level must be responsible for the pump failure.

I took the whole thing out. Pump, tank and even didn't need to take off the pulley! It was tight but can be done! And put the whole thing from the other Sunfire I have here. I'll get another pump at a junkyard when I'm ready to replace the engine in it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let us and the world know how it works out. Good bet if bleeding out the next one goes fast and well you have it,


T

Response From Scrapmetalman

Bleeding with the other pump was done in no time. I went for a test drive and it works fine.

Car Vibrating - HELP!

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Car Vibrating - HELP!

I've been having trouble with my 2001 Pontiac Grand Am GT shaking at 50 mph and up. I've gone to 4 mechanics, each of them saying it was the tires... so I replaced them. I've also gone to a transmission specialist under the advice of another mechanic, which got me no where. Does anyone know what this could be? Please help!

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

could be out of balanced wheels or bad cv joints. I had that problem and it seemed to be low on power steering fluid as well. I filled it up and the shaking almost fully went away. Be sure to come here and ask first, and when you go into a place don't act like you don't know nothing.

It makes me wonder what kind of mechanic couldn't figure that out?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Each wheel should be checked and all shocks, and bearings and the parts that are involved with steering and suspension.

It's odd that different tires would cause the same problem but there are bad new tires, T

95 Pontiac Grand Am

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From MultiFire on 95 Pontiac Grand Am

I was in traffic for about a hour with no problems at all, as I was making a left turn into my job's parking lot the steering wheel got really tight and i could hear a deep grinding sound somewhere under my engine/tires. It was dark and I thought maybe there was no steering fluid so I filled the tank with some then went to work. When i left work the car made the grinding sound + the tight turning just like before. Once i got on the road and starting driving a bit the wheel loosened up but only tightened and grinded when I made left or right turns. As I parked the car it did it again. Anyone have any ideas?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

I would start by putting the front of the car up on jackstands. Get underneath and have an assistant turn the wheel. See if you can pinpoint the noise. You should also check to see if there is any power steering fluid leaking. If no leaks are present and the fluid is full, check the front end components. You could have a bad upper strut mount bearing that is binding. You could also have a binding outer tie rod end or a bad lower ball joint. If there are grease fittings you can hit them with grease and work the wheel back and forth to see if the noise goes away and the steering wheel loosens. Good luck and post back to let us know how it's going.

Steve