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I'm 18 and don't know much about cars. I own a v6 manual 1997 mazda 323.
Story is that as of today it seems to have less power when I'm driving. When I take off in first the revs do not go as high as usual, driving the same way as I usually do in this case now causes me to bunny hop.
All of the gears seem to accelerate slower if I was to put my foot down. When I look at my revs while in 4th, i have almost 2500, I can't quite remember but I'm pretty sure my revs usually sit more around 1600, but I can't quite confirm on that.

This info may also help:
Yesterday night I took off fast from a set of lights. It felt like i let the clutch out a little too quick as when I took off my car did a little jump but not like a bunny hop or anything. I have a new clutch though so that should be fine. When I got to my destination I stalled it in reverse when reversing into a park. After that happened my car would not restart, I had no turnover at all when I tried to start it. My car was rolling back so i just let it roll and stopped when it was in the park. When I came back to it after a 2 hr uni lecture I tried to start it and there was now a little turnover but still wouldn't start so I jump started it. I managed to jump start it and from memory it seemed to drive home fine. My power steering fluid is low but everything else is fine.

I feel like this is a fair bit of info that someone might know what's going on. I've booked it in to get checked on Monday.

Please comment any ideas!

OK, so you don't know much about cars - yet.
First problem seems like a worn out clutch if RPMS can rise and speed doesn't it's slipping and wont for long as it will just slip soon if so.


2. Needed a jump start: Now you need to know if the battery and connections are good AND that the charging system is working properly and if so if there's a parasitic drain so not really for a newbie on all that to check out with any certainty.


3. Power steering fluid low? How low? Should be a range for level when cold and level when it's been used or call it 'hot' and fine if low stone cold but within the limits/range would be normal. If really low it's leaking so the job is to find out where and not drive it so low or you'll wreck pump, cause debris is possible and more troubles.


If you are being particularly hard on this car multiple problems are just going to crop up. If you stalled this for real while parking it you need to learn how to drive a standard shift car better or another problem caused the stall. There should be warnings if it isn't running properly on gauges or codes stored if so that you could get retrieved before unhooking battery at many parts outlets,


T

OK, so you don't know much about cars - yet.
First problem seems like a worn out clutch if RPMS can rise and speed doesn't it's slipping and wont for long as it will just slip soon if so.


2. Needed a jump start: Now you need to know if the battery and connections are good AND that the charging system is working properly and if so if there's a parasitic drain so not really for a newbie on all that to check out with any certainty.


3. Power steering fluid low? How low? Should be a range for level when cold and level when it's been used or call it 'hot' and fine if low stone cold but within the limits/range would be normal. If really low it's leaking so the job is to find out where and not drive it so low or you'll wreck pump, cause debris is possible and more troubles.


If you are being particularly hard on this car multiple problems are just going to crop up. If you stalled this for real while parking it you need to learn how to drive a standard shift car better or another problem caused the stall. There should be warnings if it isn't running properly on gauges or codes stored if so that you could get retrieved before unhooking battery at many parts outlets,


T

It doesn't seem like a clutch because I got that replaced, and this feels different to what it was like when my clutch was slipping. I had mostly the same power when my clutch was slipping and that was for quite a while before I got that fixed. No problems with where my revs sat during that time.

I had problems about 3 months ago because my battery tray snapped and my battery started to move while I was driving. This meant that I'm guessing it was shorting out against something because I would have to jump start it often before I put a new battery tray in. I am thinking that my alternator could be on its way out possibly more likely because of the previous times I just explained where I'd have a flat battery and need to be jumped. It was unusual to have no turnover at all when I did try to start it the other night, when my battery was moving around I'd still get turnover it just wouldn't start.

It's not leaking its just been slowly going down for a bit its just below min at the moment.

I don't stall, it was unusal for me. When i put it in reverse i just started letting the clutch as normal and it stalled. I'm quite sure there was something wrong at that point but who knows. There is definitely some linkage in my revs between all of this though because about 2400 in 4th isn't right.

So far I've been suggested that my fuel pump is dirty/worn. Also someone suggested "limp mode", which I did a little research on. When I open my bonnet after driving it, it is pretty hot under there, but my temperature gauge only raises to the same point it always goes to. I'm not sure if my car has limp mode and this could be the symptoms of it but I guess it's on the cards as well. There is no engine lights or anything on my dash though, nothing out of the ordinary is displayed.

If this gives any better ideas please let us know!
Cheers

OK - Now more is making sense of why for some possible issues. The battery moving around for any reason must be corrected permanently and properly as it's own issue. If a post shorts out there's no telling what other issues it can cause. For this I suggest a full code reading and think the engine isn't running as it should and that info that doesn't always light a warning is part of this game.


You said you had an appointment and do keep it. Let them drive the car and do tests that it's normal or not and explain your complaints and history of already needing a clutch now once I'm not sure it was done properly or if you are not driving it properly?


What RPMs should be in a given gear at what speed I can't know the precise # for you. If you notice it's different than it was under the same conditions that means something.
Limp modes? IDK - it really should have an amber icon for "Check Engine" in English or a picture of an engine staying on or perhaps blinking. As a test just turn ignition key to "run" not started and warning lights should light which checks that the bulbs work - follow me?
If a warning bulb is missing or blown that alone could very well cause problems and near sure code readings would show it can't read codes.
Let the shop and even ask to speak with the tech when you take it in. Ask for this car to be checked out and how much things will cost BEFORE you authorize the work so you don't get shocked with a killer bill.
No offense from me but are you convinced you are properly driving a standard shift car with proper use of a clutch? Did someone teach you or where are you with that. Not everyone does well with standard shift cars either just not taught in person with someone who you still need to believe knows what the heck they are doing and many don't lots older than you said you are which alone means little.
Oh boy. So, if you are not totally sure you are driving it properly that has to be learned. I just can't imagine learning that thru videos or even written out instructions vs in person coach on that.
This becomes key or you'll have odd problems with cars.


The power steering fluid loss can be lost for a while thru a rack and pinion (thing that turns the wheels under side out of your sight) with bellows that would hold some for a while and not show a leak till later maybe. Ask the shop/tech about that too. If you are forcing steering when it's at the end of travel till a belt squeals you are causing harm and need to know that.


In short I'm having trouble figuring out if YOU are causing issues or now an older car just needs work done normally?


Trying to help you, Tom

Turned out to be the air intake hose split at the rubber.
In relation to my car stalling and the battery, it's either my alternator or my battery's faulty since what previously went on with it. A friend tested the battery with whatever tool and it was sitting at about 11 and not moving while the car was running. Something to test the charge? Not sure what it meant but he said it could be the battery or the alternator. Anyway I gotta take the battery into the shop I got it and get them to test it cause I still have a little warranty left on it. If thats good, I guess its the alternator

Thanks for the help on the way, I'm gonna get onto the power steering as well

Just about charging system + battery: If it was reading 11 volts while running it's not charging and you do need to know why. It really wouldn't stay there for long before not running at all due to it not recharging itself while running.
System check including battery that should be charged up first for testing. If it can't hold a proper charge by itself it's no good perhaps from it not being held in place and shorting out or who knows but should work and test normally when charged and brought in THEN see if charging system is working.


More to that: While running it should read over 13 volts and under 15 volts and when off for a while back to about 12.6 volts or so but over 12 just sitting there.
Charging system should maintain voltage above 13 volts with item running like blower for heat and A/C, lights on or isn't right.
You first should seek help as to why as that doesn't mean what is at fault yet if that happens.


Again - if not charging it really shouldn't stay running and or die out and not re-start if that was a voltage reading at all.
What do you wish to do. Learn more and buy some test equipment or let a professional diagnose why? This if I'm interpreting what you said properly could explain lots of things not working properly and said should stay running all that long. Alone this doesn't have anything to do with power steering fluid level unless belt is slipping because of a leak maybe and you should plain see that and must be refilling it if so.
Have to suggest you get a real professional to at least take a look and diagnose it then you decide what part if anything you wish to take on yourself if any of it but then know what the trouble is hopefully with a price to correct it,


T