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CRP
2009 Chrysler Aspen Power Steering Fluid 8 Cyl 5.7L CRP

P311-13ABF59    1058219  New

Qty:
233.75
CRP Power Steering Fluid
  • Pentosin ATF 1 Automatic Transmission Fl uid for ECCC exc. CVT and DCT.
  • ; ATF1; 20 L
  • Pentosin ATF 1 is a fully synthetic high performance Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for life-time application in automatic gear boxes. Pentosin ATF 1 is formulated by means of the best commercially available synthetic base oils and additive components. A high performance shear stable VI-Improver plus modern antiwear chemistry and friction modifiers guarantee a sound stable friction performance in modern automatic transmissions equipped with an electronically controlled converter clutch.
Brand: CRP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Chrysler Aspen Limited V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
CRP
2013 Chrysler 300 Power Steering Fluid 8 Cyl 6.4L CRP

P311-20AF778    1058107  New

Qty:
20.77
CRP Power Steering Fluid
  • Pentosin ATF 1 Automatic Transmission Fluid for ECCC exc. CVT and DCT.
  • ; ATF1; 1 L
  • Pentosin ATF 1 is a fully synthetic high performance Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for life-time application in automatic gear boxes. Pentosin ATF 1 is formulated by means of the best commercially available synthetic base oils and additive components. A high performance shear stable VI-Improver plus modern antiwear chemistry and friction modifiers guarantee a sound stable friction performance in modern automatic transmissions equipped with an electronically controlled converter clutch.
Brand: CRP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Chrysler 300 V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424
CRP
2013 Chrysler 300 Power Steering Fluid 8 Cyl 6.4L CRP

P311-277FE96    1058206  New

Qty:
70.51
CRP Power Steering Fluid
  • Pentosin ATF 1 Automatic Transmission Fluid for ECCC exc. CVT and DCT.
  • ; ATF1; 5 L
  • Pentosin ATF 1 is a fully synthetic high performance Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for life-time application in automatic gear boxes. Pentosin ATF 1 is formulated by means of the best commercially available synthetic base oils and additive components. A high performance shear stable VI-Improver plus modern antiwear chemistry and friction modifiers guarantee a sound stable friction performance in modern automatic transmissions equipped with an electronically controlled converter clutch.
Brand: CRP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Chrysler 300 V 8 Cyl 6.4L 392 6424
Idemitsu
2004 Chrysler Sebring Power Steering Fluid 6 Cyl 3.0L Idemitsu - IDEMITSU ATF Type HK

P311-312EF43    30040097-75000C020  New

Qty:
11.99
  • Quart Capacity 1.3; OE Manufacturer
  • IDEMITSU ATF Type HK
  • Product Attributes:
    • Approvals: Oe Specific Fluid For Hyundai And Kia Vehicles Where Atf Type Sp Iii Fluid Is Specified.idemitsu Atf Type Hk Is Also Recommended For Mitsubishi, Dodge And Chrysler Where Atf Type Sp Iii Fluid Is Specified.
Brand: Idemitsu
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler Sebring V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Motul
1995 Chrysler Cirrus Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-3D6B5D3    105774  New

Qty:
11.07
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • ATF VI - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Low Viscosity Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch Requiring A Dexron Vi Fluid; Transfer Case And Power Steering; Standards And Manufacturers Specifications: Refer To Technical Data Sheet
  • Fully Synthetic High performance low viscosity lubricant specially engineered for modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch requiring a DEXRON VI fluid. Suitable for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON III H or DEXRON II D fluids are required.
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Chrysler Cirrus
Motul
1993 Chrysler Concorde Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-3D6B5D3    105774  New

Qty:
11.07
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • ATF VI - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 1.2 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Low Viscosity Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch Requiring A Dexron Vi Fluid; Transfer Case And Power Steering; Standards And Manufacturers Specifications: Refer To Technical Data Sheet
  • Fully Synthetic High performance low viscosity lubricant specially engineered for modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch requiring a DEXRON VI fluid. Suitable for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON III H or DEXRON II D fluids are required.
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Chrysler Concorde
Motul
1994 Chrysler Concorde Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-3D6B5D3    105774  New

Qty:
11.07
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • ATF VI - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 1.2 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Low Viscosity Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch Requiring A Dexron Vi Fluid; Transfer Case And Power Steering; Standards And Manufacturers Specifications: Refer To Technical Data Sheet
  • Fully Synthetic High performance low viscosity lubricant specially engineered for modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch requiring a DEXRON VI fluid. Suitable for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON III H or DEXRON II D fluids are required.
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Chrysler Concorde
Motul
1985 Chrysler Fifth Avenue Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 0.7 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Chrysler Fifth Avenue
Motul
1995 Chrysler Concorde Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 0.8 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Chrysler Concorde
Motul
1996 Chrysler Cirrus Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chrysler Cirrus
Motul
2004 Chrysler 300M Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 0.7 litre Additional Information: Use condition: Normal Additional Information: Use condition: Severe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler 300M
Motul
1994 Chrysler Concorde Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 1.2 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Chrysler Concorde
Motul
1996 Chrysler Cirrus Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 1.2 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chrysler Cirrus
Motul
1996 Chrysler Cirrus Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Qty:
13.51
Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • ; Filling capacity: 0.81 litre
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chrysler Cirrus

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Chrysler Town and Country fuel injection system

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From jdrandolph on 2003 Chrysler Town and Country fuel injection system

Guys,

I was reading another post that i found on the site an it sounds alot like my problem. I have listed below for your reference. I have a few differences, but mostly the same. Here it is. http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/Dodge_Caravan_Injector_hell_P50742/ .


Before i go any further i should tell you the circustance with which this started. I stopped and filled up my car at the gas station, and started on an hour long trip. The car started missing horably and then speedometer and the temperature guage started acting eratically. Then the alternator light came on. I pulled over and turned off the car. After looking at everything under the hood, i decided to see what would happen i f irestarted the car. I started with no problem, no lights or anthing except the check engine light. The speedometer and stuff worked fine. I had to do this two or 3 times to get back home. When i got home, i pulled the codes off the compter and got the following codes. P-0106, P-0123, P-1478, and P-168.4. I replaced the map sensor, cleared the codes and none of those codes reappeard and the check engine light was off. I drove to town the next day. The car drove great. Problem solved i thought. Then the missing started on my way back home. None of those codes ever returned except the last and that is related to disconnecting the battery.


When i got back home i ready the codes, expecting to see the same codes and to find out the map sensor was not the problem at all. This time i got the P0204 code. If the vehicle runs long enough, the p0304 will come on as well. I have replace the spark plugs and wires. I have not done everything that was done in the previous post, but i have taken it apart several times and to no avail. My engine misses all the time. If i clear the code, it comes back immediately. I have looked for a visual damaged area on the wiring harness, but have not found one yet. To verify that it was not the injector, i swapped the #4 and #6 injectors and still have the same problem. I disconnected the #6 injector and started the car. The voltage on this injector read 2.5-3 volts., same for the #2 injector. The voltage on the #4 injector was 15 voltas approximately. Thats as far as i have gotten. I do have an ohm meter and know how to use it. Just not familar with the wire harness good enought to know where a short might be or which pin to measure at the ecm to check for a short in the wire. Another forum told me they thought it might be the ecm (computer) and that it might have a bad driver. However, when i went to order one today. The guy told me to make sure i didnt have a short or it could just blow the new ecm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can do anything mechanically related if someone can give me some direction. I dont mind buying a rebuilt computer, but dont wish to do this if it is not the problem.

Response From dmi187619

I have a 2002 Town and Country with a 3.8 posting the same code. I did find that the wiring harness was fried right where you said it was, just behind the main connector behind the power steering reservoir. I managed to fix it, checked all circuits. All circuits were good. However, when I reconnected the harness, and fired it up, the computer immediately posted the P0204 code again. I think it is the PCM, but where else could I check for a short or possibly damaged wires? Should I check from beyond the main connector, and trace back to the PCM first before I just fork out and buy a new PCM? I just want to make sure I don't have another problem with a frayed, pinched and shorted wire. I'm afraid of frying the new PCM. Thanks.

Response From jdrandolph

Let me first state that this was the solution for my problem, but I cannot see or guarantee that this is your problem. But if you have melted the wires like my car did, then you will likely have to replace the ECM. I bought a refurbished/reprogrammed computer from Ebay for $199.00 and it solved my problem and only took a week to get it. I think the name was Automotive Exchange. Just make sure that all wires are fully insulated. I recommend changing the fuel injection portion of the wiring harness, but i still have not replaced mineand it runs great! Knock on wood!!!!!

Response From dmi187619

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to do one quick inspection of the rest of the wiring and get the PCM. I saw the paticular ebay auction for $199 that you were talking about too. I also re-routed the wiring to go up and around the power steering reservoir as well, so none of the wires touch the block. I think it will be fine for right now. I will let you know how mine went after I install the new PCM. Thanks for all your help.

Response From jdrandolph

I made the exact same change. I would continue to use the heat protection wrap that was on the wiring harness, just in case it touches again. You will need to have the VIN and mileage on the car when you call in to order the vehicle. If you buy over Ebay, you can send the seller a note. I like this method because PayPal somewhat protects you. Good luck and let me know if it works for you. Hope this post helps everyone, because I spent 2 months trying to diagnose and solve this problem. While another post did say the wiring harness could be damaged, without telling me to take the harness off to examine, I would never have found this problem.

Response From Tom Piccirillo

I had the exact same trouble with my 2003 T&C as above...rough running, surging, transmission slamming.

The dealer had it for two weeks and couldn't find the trouble until I showed him the posts above. He then checked it out and...

Yup, it was the wiring harness under the PS pump and near the 10-pin connector. He opened it up and saw the fried wires. Repaired the wires and the car then ran fine.

He tried to charge me for the time he spent hunting for the trouble. Well, I couldn't do that...no one would. We came to an agreement at a somewhat lower price, but his effort was commendable, even if ineffective. In all honesty, it is a real head scratcher. If it wasn't for this forum, the solution would have never been found.

The next guy in his shop for a similar repair will benefit from this experience. I only wish I was that guy, instead of the one on the learning curve. I then would not have had to have the "discussion" with the service manager.

I would still go back to this dealer for service...whether or not he'll work with me in the future is questionable.

Response From orasac

Me too! It was the main 10 pin ELECTRICAL cable that melted by falling on rear (hard to see) exhaust manifold. I read more on various discussion forums and I found out there is an "EPIDEMIC OF MELTED 10 PIN CABLES (Wire Harness)" out there and I can't believe there was no recall on it. What a poor design - it looks like something out of old Eastern-European car design (or the parts manufacturer). People with the same problem got blown ECU (computer) due to "the short" and/or even lost their Catalytic Converter due to fuel flooding. Your mechanic could have (un)intentionally left it that way as a “job security”. There are TWO PLASTIC “safety pins” to plug in the firewall to keep the cable away from the hot metal and I think they knew that?!?!.
NOTICE TO EVERY CHRYSLER OWNER WITH 3.3L AND 3.8L V6 ENGINE - CHECK THAT CABLE FIRST IF YOU MAINTAINED YOUR CAR RIGHT AND STILL DEVELOPED STRANGE SYMPTOMS AND EVEN IF IT DOESN'T - IT'S A GREAT PREVENTIVE MEASURE. It's hard to see it because it’s hidden behind the engine and under the power steering reservoir and the coil. Other than that I think Chrysler engines, from the mechanical stand point, are not bad at all!!!

Response From Hammer Time

This is a 2 year old thread. Please look at the dates before posting.

Response From Hopebuddy

HI,
My 2003 Town and Country has about same issue as yours. Climbed Grandfather Mtn in NC and car started running rough with 0204 and 0304 codes set. Changed wires and plugs and swapped out number 4 injector with no success.
Can you tell me what finally fixed yours? Appreciate any help

Response From jdrandolph Top Rated Answer

I have figured out what is wrong, but have not fixed it yet, because of lack of money. The initial problem is directly related to the wiring harness. Directly below the location where the fuel injection harness connects to the main engine wiring harness, my wiring harness was touching the engine block and melted all of the insulation off of the wires. But during this process it fried on of the circuits on my computer. Therefore, I have to replace the computer. I should have the money to replace it this Thursday. I will let you know.

You can see if this is your problem by following the wiring harness from the injectors (under the air intake) behind and under the power steering fluid reservoir, downward towards the back of he engine. There is a connector just below the power steering fluid reservoir. That is where mine was shorted due to the insulation being melted off the wires. I will eventually have to replace that portion of my wiring harness, but to test my computer, i have just replace the insulation on the wiring harness and protected this area. Its not hard to make the fix, but I couldn't tell I had a problem until I took the wiring harness off of the car.

Hope this helps

Response From Hopebuddy

JD,
Well done my friend! Not only was the fuel injector harness melted but it was exactly where you said it would be just under and aft of power steering reservoir near the 10 pin connector. Also it was not obvious until I removed the outer insullation covering. Looks like this to be a common problem on 2003 town and country. Should be a recall- not sure if it is. New harness is about $ 225 at Chrysler but beleive I can repair old one with connectors and a crimper tool.

I temporarily insulated all the wires with tape and then started car - runs very smooth now. Computor is OK but unfortunately the shorted wires caused injectors to flood the engine when I was in the mountains and damaged the catalytic converter. Bought one on ebay for $213.
Thanks again. Believe ebay has computers listed also.
Cheers!
HB

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you guys found your problems........Thx 4 coming back & posting your results.....

Response From Sidom

Well Chryslers do have problems with their PCMs & drivers in particular so that definately wouldn't be out of the questions.. The voltage you are getting to the injector is too low but comes up when you disconnect the #4 injector. The injectors get their power from the ASD relay and you should be seeing system voltage, 12 v or 14.x while running. I would back probe #2 or 6 and see what the voltage is when you disconnect #4. Also put a noid light on that connector & see if you have a pulse.

I would also be looking at the wiring harnesses, I've seen some problems with no evidence on the outside of the harness. I would start with the obvious stuff, maybe open up the harness under the battery to make sure there is no corrosion in it, look around for evidence of a damaged, pinched, moved, fluid saturated harnesses, grab the harness & wiggle them, see if that makes any codes come back or run differently, the injector harness in particular. You can disconnect the PCM connectors, find the power & ground circuits & verify those (maybe one of the guys with a good data base can hook ya up with a wiring diagram) , probe the other pins with + probe & key on, any 12 v reads on the other pins would indicate a short to power, with the sensors disconnected & a test light with the clip hooked on to the pos bat term, prob the connector pins & if its lights up that would indicate a short to ground........

If this was a straight #4 misfire with no injector pulse & good power it would be a slam dunk PCM(I'm assuming you've ohm'd the injectors to eliminate a shorted injector plus swapped them & the problem didn't move). All those codes you got 1st could still be a PCM, they will throw the kitchen sink when the go, but these are all reference voltage & power supply codes so personally if it was my call I thing I would want to make there isn'tanything going on in one of the harness, probably not, but ya never know............

I was assuming you have a 3.3L v/6

1997 Chrysler LHS humming noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dbrazelton on 1997 Chrysler LHS humming noise

I have a chrysler LHS 1997 4 dr 6 cyl. Yesterday while driving a humming niose started. It most noticeable when the steering column is turned in either direction. it can also be slightly heard when you press the gas. When the car is started and just idling you don't hear it. it cna be heard as i said earlier when you press on the gas. it jsut more pronouced when you trun the steering column. there is approximately 130k miles on the car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Check power steering fluid level and consider changing it. Lots of heat can turn it sticky or leaks happen too. If low, find the leak,

T

steering wheel is shaking

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From chryslervan on steering wheel is shaking

Hi I have a 1998 Chrysler Town and Country Van. The steering wheel is shaking when I am going faster than 40 km/h. The power steering fluid is fine. The tire pressure is fine. Any ideas?
Thanks.

Response From techforfree

Inspect all the tires fon a broken belt if they all appear to be good have your tires rotated and ballanced..good luck

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

Tire balance, wheel run out or tire run out. Bring it in and get all tires balanced and mug cleaned out from the rims.

Town & Country Brake Troubles

Showing 2 out of 31 Posts | Show 29 Hidden Posts
Question From Vetro_Radox on Town & Country Brake Troubles

Hello there! The car I'm having issues with is a 1994 Chrysler Town & Country AWD 3.8L with more mileage than you'd believe. I'll start with the most important problem first. I have next to no braking when the car is running and only slightly more with the car off. I cannot build any real pressure in lines with the car on or off. I must apologize here for I have only had the chance to bleed one side so far, I wil try the other side tomorrow. Fluid reaches the drivers side front brake normally during bleeding but I still cannot build any pressure in the lines. The drivers side rear brake is a whole different problem, absolutely no fluid goes to the rear during bleeding. The brake reservoir is full and no fluid is leaking anywhere. None of the lines appear to be crimped or damaged in any way either. It is also worth noting that the front calipers, shoes, and rotors have all been replaced recently although I do not believe that has caused the aforementioned problem. The problem was not exactly sudden but it took less than three days to develop to the point it is at now.

The second problem is likely connected to the first in some way and has been going on for much longer. The van gradually developed a front driver's side brake grab that would not be present while the car was off and not until the car had been driven for a few miles. It was minor at first and may have been going on for a short while before I noticed. I eventually felt the drag that the brake was having tried to adjust my driving style to prevent the brake from grabbing as hard. Eventually it progressed to the point that the brake would actually smoke after the car had been driven for a while. I didn't yet have the money to replace parts (I had assumed I had a warped rotor or sticking piston or something along those lines) so I was forced to drive the van for a few more days, I'll admit, I was foolish and made a mistake doing so. One day the brake grabbed particularly hard and tore the rotor clean in half. I now didn't have a choice so I had no choice but to pony up the cash and replace the rotor, caliper, and shoes. I did both of the front brakes just as a precaution. The problem is, the front driver's side brake still sticks while driving. Not as hard as it was before, but I don't doubt that the same thing will happen again if I don't do something. Fortunately I was able to stop driving this car regularly soon after I replaced the brake parts and was forced not to drive it at all shortly thereafter due to the first problem occurring.

Thank you all for reading this, if I have omitted any information you require please let me know. I will be checking in on this thread frequently as I am at a bit of a loss right now. I'm much more used to my simple old El Camino.

Response From Sidom

Is the rubber gasket the seals the master cylinder reservoir cap swollen & distorted and doesn't seem to fit the cap anymore?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I was referring to the "original" seals. If anything besides DOT3 brake fluid was used in that system. Then the whole system is contaminate and every rubber part would need to be replaced.

A good indicator is the rubber cap on the master gets swollen & distorted because of the contamination. Every other rubber piece will do the same as the cap and it causes all kinds of brk problems.....

A big mistake people make is to use power steering fluid or ATF......

Edit...I missed that last sentence......Yes it is a good thing if it is in its original form & undistorted

Response From Vetro_Radox

Definitely no fluid contamination. While I'm not the most experienced with newer cars I have rebuilt just about every inch of my El Camino so I have a decent amount of mechanical knowledge. Sorry I haven't yet gotten back to you guys with the results of the brake bleeding. Hopefully I will get a chance in the next couple days. The temperature being over 106 is a little annoying but it won't stop me from doing the brakes.

Response From nickwarner

I'm going to go back to your first post and comment. You said you only bled the left side. You can't bleed that way and get a good result. You must go from the furthest from the master to closest. The right rear, left rear, right front, left front in that order.

Response From Vetro_Radox

Indeed, I was mostly checking to see if I was getting fluid to the brakes. I included that information in my original post just to mention that no fluid was getting to the left rear at all. I ran out of time then to do an actual brake bleeding so I will have to do a real one soon.

Response From nickwarner

Follow the brake lines right near the gas tank and there is a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes. See if you have fluid coming in and going out of it.

Response From Vetro_Radox

Hello again, sorry for the large delay in response, life got in the way a bit. I have now replaced the master cylinder because I discovered the old one was leaking at the back. I then bled all the brakes and now braking is not bad at all. I still need to replace the front flex hoses but that shouldn't be any trouble. There is still one problem. During bleeding no fluid would come out of the left rear bleeder. I then decided to pull the line off to see if fluid was even getting to the wheel cylinder. As soon as I turned the line fluid came out of the bleeder. So I closed the line up and tried to bleed that brake again, no fluid. I cannot undo that brake line without damaging it due to rust so I will probably have to replace the line anyway. Could I possibly have a clogged wheel cylinder or something?

Response From nickwarner

You could have a bad bleeder screw. Take it completely out and see if fluid will come through the hole. If so you can get individual brake bleeders at the parts stores. Its really a small passage in them for fluid and if they get a bit of rust in them won't flow through at all.

Response From Vetro_Radox

I actually did try it with the bleeder screw out. No fluid then either. I should've mentioned that in my last post.

Response From Discretesignals

You trying to bleed the rear brakes with the wheels off the ground?

Response From Vetro_Radox

Up on jack stands actually. The rear right didn't have any trouble with bleeding however.

Response From Discretesignals

That has that height sensing proportioning valve I believe. It's the thing the rear brake lines run to that has a spring attached to it that is connected to the suspension. We had one a while back where the valve got stuck and was blocking off brake pressure. It can also be plugged up with contamination too.

If the rear suspension is hanging down, the proportioning valve will block off.

Response From Vetro_Radox

Hmm.. I have actually looked for that, my chilton implies that because this is an AWD model in wasn't equipped with one. I've followed the line to the front and didn't find one, unless it is for some reason between the fuel tank and the floor of the van.

Response From Discretesignals

It wouldn't be hard to find, so maybe yours isn't equipped. It should have a Bendix ABS system in it that could be causing problem with fluid getting to that wheels. Sometimes they use the ABS system to proportion brake fluid to the rear. I don't know if that system is that high tech though. You might have to unscrew the brake pipe for that wheel at the ABS module and then see if the line is clear. If the line is clear, bleeding the ABS module out might be the next step. There is a huge procedure for bleeding out the hydraulic modulator and it requires a scan tool with the capability to do that.

Response From Vetro_Radox

You are correct about it having a Bendix ABS system. I'll see what I can do, however I don't know a whole lot about ABS systems so I'll have to be cautious. If I end up having to bleed the hydraulic modulator I might just have to live with 3 wheel braking, I definitely can't afford a scan tool, particularly not for a car with 3/4 of a million miles on it.

Response From Hammer Time

I am really amazed at the thought process of some DIYers.

If I end up having to bleed the hydraulic modulator I might just have to live with 3 wheel braking, I definitely can't afford a scan tool, particularly not for a car with 3/4 of a million miles on it.


Why have you ruled out simply just paying a shop to bleed your brakes for you?

Response From Vetro_Radox

Bleeding the brakes has gone fine, but I know very little about ABS systems if I'm honest so when Discretesignals said that the bleeding the hydraulic modulator was a huge procedure and that it would require a scan tool I decided that I was probably out of luck for now. I'm in college right now and have pretty much no money so that's why I can't get a shop involved. Having looked up hydraulic modulator bleeding it doesn't actually seem that difficult if I can find someone with a scan tool.

Response From Vetro_Radox

Whoops didn't mean to make this extra post, I thought my last one didn't go through.

Response From Vetro_Radox

Nope, cap seals are brand new. Interestingly enough I discovered (before the posting of this thread) that there was an extra cap seal that had somehow ended up stuck inside the master cylinder reservoir. I'm not sure where this gasket came from, I've changed the cap seals several times before and never lost track of a gasket. Odd as this is, the removal of this extra gasket seal has made no difference in the way the braking system acts. It is also important to note that the gasket seal I removed from the reservoir is undamaged.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

So far I haven't seen any flex hoses being replaced. The rubber flex hose to calipers can fail inside them unseen such that fluid pressure can't return. Some, even without using brakes just build up pressure from expanded brake fluid and that brake will drag. If so or if somehow still original - do both fronts or all of them at this age and as you indicated, high miles.

Those flex hoses on Mopars go to a brake line with a long flare nut that easily corrodes to the metal line inside so be ready to make up new line if they will not cooperate.

You said you've only bled out one side? Not much point in brake feel till all are known free of air in the system. Fresh brake fluid would be good for it all around and may take a pressure bleeder to accomplish it - when all else is right,

T

Response From Vetro_Radox

Hi there guys, thanks for the advice so far. I'll give the brakes a real bleeding today and I'll look into replacing those front flex hoses. It has been a while since I've done those. The rear brakes are drums however and do not have flex hoses. I'm still wondering what would stop fluid completely from going to the driver's side rear.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rear isn't making a front wheel drag in anything I can think of? There just may be two flex hoses or at least one for rear. I just can't recall if this is independently rear suspended or a plain axle but with AWD it wouldn't be like one without back there,

T

Response From Vetro_Radox

It's a plain rear axle with AWD.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One axle mean just one flex hose usually and it isn't subject to the trauma of a front one and wouldn't be the cause of the troubles so far anyway but glance at the thing if you are under there just for rust or cracks,

T

Response From Vetro_Radox

Alright, will do. I'm going to replace the front flex hoses anyway, problem or not because I know they haven't been changed for at least the last 250k miles. I have a car show to get to, so I won't be back here for at least 4 hours, hopefully I will have had time to get to the brake bleeding by then.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OMG - That many miles and the age and still original! Remember they have to ride up and down AND twist with steering plus first shot at road conditions!

Again - if the brake line into hose end is trouble try if it looks decent not to twist it up and if it goes we can discuss making up line properly.

Good luck,

T

Response From Vetro_Radox

Actually the front flex lines have been replaced 3 times prior to this. When I said this van has a lot of miles, I mean a LOT of miles.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Newer or not if NG it's NG - hoses again, check those bolts that allows fluid flow. It's that or defective parts and not ready to believe that so far,

T

Response From dr.donut

the one bleeder maybe so coroded that the fluid won't go through, you can replace it or take it out and clean it, to bleed brakes you start with the one farthest from the master cyl, and work toward the closest, I crack the bleeder with a short hose on it that runs upward so that air that comes out can not go back in, then slightly push the brake peddle no more than an inch, nice and easy, the bleeder is open the whole time saving the ,"open it, close it"" dialog when using an assistant, you should feel it get a little stiffer, and if you have drum brakes in the rear and they are worn,(drums and shoes) that small amount of play will take up alot of peddle, and even if the brakes are bled the peddle will still hit the floor untill you tighten up that situation, and before I compress the front caliper piston I pull back the rubber boot and give it shot of WD40, this helps the caliper relax, when you see a front wheel cover that is dark thats brake dust from a clinging caliper, I am not "lord god of auto repair" but I hope that helps, it's never done me wrong

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from original post ">>It is also worth noting that the front calipers, shoes, and rotors have all been replaced recently although I do not believe that has caused the aforementioned problem."
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Bleeders shouldn't be the issue if calipers recently were replaced but was just thinking the bolt that holds hose on could be the culprit too. Those can usually just be cleared out if blocked solid. If nothing on that wheel that is in a cards as a maybe,

T