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2012 Acura RL Power Steering Fluid 6 Cyl 3.7L Idemitsu - IDEMITSU PSF

P311-34E49D3    30040106-97200C020  New

  • Quart Capacity 1.2; OE Manufacturer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Approvals: Meets The Requirement Of Non-electric Type Power Steering Fluid
Brand: Idemitsu
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Acura RL V 6 Cyl 3.7L - 3664
1997 Acura CL Power Steering Fluid Genuine - 12 oz. - For Honda ONLY

P311-4E901B4    W0133-1639499  New

Genuine Power Steering Fluid
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Conventional
  • 12 oz. bottle; For use in Honda and Acura power steering systems only. Before installing this fluid, please refer to the vehicle's owner's manual to confirm that this fluid is the correct one for that vehicle's power steering system.
  • 12 oz. - For Honda ONLY
  • Honda, 12 oz
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
1997 - Acura CL
2003 Acura CL Power Steering Fluid Motul

P311-51710B8    105784  New

Motul Power Steering Fluid
  • MULTI ATF - 1L - Fully Synthetic Transmission fluid
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Info: Fully Synthetic Fluid For Automatic Transmission With Slip Lockup Clutch And Power Steering
  • Fully Synthetic High performance lubricant specially engineered for most modern automatic transmission (manual mode, sequential mode, electronically controlled ) with or without slip lockup clutch. Recommended for use in older automatic gearboxes, torque converters, power steering, boats reverse gears, hydrostatic transmissions, mechanical and hydraulic systems where DEXRON (except
Brand: Motul
Additional Fitment Information:
2003 - Acura CL

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Acura TL power steering explosion

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Guest on 2001 Acura TL power steering explosion

Year: 2001
Make: Acura
Model: TL
Engine Size: 3.2L
Mileage: 110k

I just got back from a week long vacation and was getting ready to go to work. I started my car and didn't notice anything unusual until I started to back up out of the garage. The steering was kind tight. I didn't think much of it and thought since it was sitting for a while, that it would just go away after some steering fuild got into the lines. After going a little ways in my neighborhood, I stopped the car because it was not going away the steering was just as tight as when I back up out of my garage. So I popped the hood - that's when I saw power steering fluid all over the place, and the level was at the "lower level" line. I looked on the ground and there was a puddle of power steering fluid. The explosion looked to be pretty recent, like when I started the car.

So I turned around to switch my car out with my wife's. I didn't see too much evidence of any puddles on my garage floor.

Anybody got any ideas as to what this might be? And how I can fix it? I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm good with direction and with my hands.

Response From Guest

Just to give you an update, I got home tonight and popped the hood before I started to do anything. I noticed the level of the power steering fluid was at the "upper level". I had my wife start the car so I could watch it. As soon as it started, some of the fluid was sucked out and then it was below the "lower level".

I took it for a spin and didn't notice any tight steering or any unusual noises. It couldn't have fixed itself, so something is wrong - I just don't know what to think now.


Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Just a guess; Check valve in the pump stuck. Without the power assist, when you turn the steering, it will force fluid into the reservoir, overfilling it. You may want to have the system flushed. Could be just a one time occurance.

Response From Guest

I just drove to autozone with no problems, got the "Honda Certified" power steering fluid and filled it to the upper level.

I started the car while the autozone guy watched the reservoir and hoses. There weren't any leaks or anything, so you're probably right Loren - one time occurrence. I probably should have it flushed, thanks for the information!

1991 Acura Integra leaking power steering fluid

Showing 7 out of 13 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From tmdowdle on 1991 Acura Integra leaking power steering fluid

Hello to anyone who can help me and all those who are here! I am a newby but I do love cars. I have been working on my nephews car for over a week even AFTER a mechanic charged my parents about 2 grand or better to repair it. Obviously some issues still exist. I have replaced the computer, and have the TPS on its way which seems to be the only issue where that part of the vehicle is concerned.
Now the problem is: It's leaking fluid through the steering rack air hose. I know that it is NOT supposed to be doing this. I can't figure it out. The rack is new so I am confused about this one and can't seem to find any info regarding trouble shooting this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Do you mean the rack is leaking fluid into the "bellows" ?? That would be a defective new part if so,


Response From tmdowdle

Hi Tom,

The rack steering is new, but when you turn the wheels there is what is called an air hose attached to the rack on the drivers side. Power steering fluid flows out of that pretty bad. I don't know anything about whether the person who put the lines on the valve body hooked them up correctly. I do know the main supply line is on the end with the other two after it. (I know I most likely make no sense. I am sorry for that). Any ideas? I realize too that sometimes new components are not good so if it does appear to you to be the rack I will get the shop that purchased it and installed it to do it over.

Thank you so much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not looking at it of course but any air hose would only be a vent. PS fluid goes in under pressure to assist and is returned to pump. It's leaking so while you can take it back to the installer. They will get another under warranty or if there is a problem with the installation it's up to them,


Response From tmdowdle

Thanks that makes perfect sense to me. Now if I can just get something done about the danged thing not running properly. I do believe its out of time. I know in the manual it shows the number one position on the distributor as being upper left and on this car its lower left. I think if I run up the number one plug and follow the book I may be able to actually figure that one out. I actually got brave yesterday and allowed my nephew to take me around the block That car ran horribly. Didn't want to stay running and kept dying. Thank you for the input. I will contact the "mechanic" if thats what one calls someone who really messes up a car and let him know I need a replacement rack.

Thank you thank you thank you

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In my whole life I have found the VAST majority of mechanics are fair and proud of their work and expertise. There certainly are exeptions and there is incompetancy or mal-intent out there but that can happen in any situation.

In defense of the mechanics out there folks should know how difficult and expensive it is to even be in the trade. There are a lot of dissatisfied consumers and some of that is justified. Where I live and work rust and corrosion is a big deal. An easy job can be a nightmare and take hours to correct a broken fastener. Things that fasten exhaust parts and the flare nut type fittings used in brakes, fuel lines, transmission cooling lines, power steering lines and more are a wicked pest and if they cross thread a new part can be rendered junk and it takes real finesse not to allow that but most of us have had that happen and know to avoid that at all costs. If that happens to a new part it would be mechanic error and the part warranty would not cover that. If something like that happened the mechanic should take responsibility for the costs for that. If they own the shop and did that they pay for that. If they are employed at a shop and make that error the shop pays for it and mechanics works for free to correct it. Shop owners will tolerate some of that but not for long as the time spent on a redo is a waste of time which is money for the shop.

It behooves the shop to fix the problem and maintain their reputation which totally pays off with happy customers who near always will tell friends of the good experience.

It's a hard way to make a living. You end your day dirty, smelling of car odors, get cut, burned and risk getting hurt almost every day!

I find the root of most problems is lack of communication. Did you get what you asked for? Did the mechanic understand your specific needs or limits with the cost of the work?

No one wins when things go wrong,


Response From tmdowdle

Oh my gosh Tom,
I never meant to offend you honestly. I know like in all professions 99% are wonderful great knowledgeable folks that make a hard living. I have worked on american made cars since I was 8 years old. I am so sorry to offend. I watched my ex fiance work on cars and I have had many an intelligent conversation and knowledgeable conversation. To give the mechanic his due that worked on this car. He openly admits he knows nothing about hondas and was just taking a shot in the dark. An expensive shot but a shot all the same. I am still trying to contact them but I do know they are in the garages working on cars and painting. This fella has a duel operation. He paints and his mechanic repairs.

Thank you for your insight I really do and always will appreciate others points of view. Sometimes it makes us realize just how narrow our own is.

Thank you

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hey - NO OFFENSE TAKEN! I worked at a place once that was soooo bad I couldn't wait to get out of there. They were rip off artists and when things didn't go right they always blamed the customer. Worse than that they would use customer's cars to go to lunch and even go thru their things in the trunk. Real nice place - I couldn't even watch that crap and had to quit. Heck, that was my name associated with that place and I didn't want that for sure.

That place went out of biz in no time with no tears from me. Same thing will happen with almost any biz that operates like that.

Be well. Hit back anytime and folks are here to help,


Response From tmdowdle

Thank you. Harold used to work at an import car repair place and he had to quit for exactly the same reason. They would actually go to autozone and buy a part for 40 dollars and sell it for 400. He said he just couldn't take it and like you he said it was his name as well that was being destroyed. They too went out of business after their customers got wise to their business tatics. I think I am going to attempt to get my parents to put this Acura in shop. I have done all I can. I was told the power steer rack has a cooler that the air hose hooks too. I believe you however and well. Sometimes one just has to admit they don't know what they are doing. :) Thank you for your time and advice. I appreciate it greatly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I forgot about PS cooling. Not all cars use that and it IS a source of leaks big time in some cars because they are placed where they rot out or get hit by road debris. In an old car in non severe use I will make up a ribbon of line (cheap) in place of an expensive part which would be easier for me but I'm sensitive to folks pocketbooks and I would take time to explain that this is a short cut and let them choose the fix.

I still have both my parents. Both can still drive but rarely more than a couple miles at a time. If we go anywhere it's in one of my cars which is usually 20 years old and I trust it better!! LOL!

I really feel like "Rip VanWinkle" when it comes to cars. I've never owned a new car out of over 100 - perhaps 200 or more! What's with this craze with cup holders anyway?? I just got rid of a nice car that had the latest and greatest stereo with 8 track tape :-),


Response From tmdowdle

You know, I am 47 and never had a new car. Don't really want a new one. Seems these days they are full of recalls and such. My parents are still around. I live with them at the moment and thank God I have them. Dad is 69 twice retired and back to work again as a refridgeration mechanic and hazmat at a local factory. He said he had to go back to work because of raising geno. Geno turns 18 next month and is a really good kid and keeps his nose clean and does well in school. He is a football star locally. Mom and dad never miss a game. Dad takes vacation days to watch him play since he works second shift. Mom is 68 and tries real hard not to drive anywhere unless its just a few miles. Could you explain how to do the ribbon thing for this car. Mom and dad just can't afford much more money on this danged thing. Heck I am game for anything that will get it to run and stay running when you drive it and not spit and sputter your back out of joint, and stop that fluid leak so my nephew can get his speakers and such installed by my friend and hit the road with his friends in his car. Blasting the neighbors ears off with that thumpin thingy he calls a stereo

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That ribbon thing: Does it in fact have one? It's just a small radiator. 1st make sure that's the problem from trauma or corrosion. If it was cross threaded back in at fittings it could be trouble!! With those on a budget you can just by-pass the whole thing making a loop with just hose clamps and rubber fuel grade line. That's the three dollar way out and just use a tubing cutter leaving enough line to hook up the hose and clamps. If the line is any kind of standard you can just buy straight line (brake line, fuel line trans cooling line all about the same product) and that line is designed to be bent and tends not to kink. There are tubing benders that make a neat job so it looks factory or if you want just bend it over a hammer handle or something making a real squiggly snake and end up where you need to connect. If you can't get a pre-made section of line with the correct fittings you can usually just use the old nuts and re-flare the lines.

This can end up needing the flaring tool and a tubing bender which are not all that expensive but there is a risk here. The metal line you make will not be so perfect in line to thread into housing where it goes and is a prime opportunity to cross the thready yourself so do anything to avoid that and as said THAT may be what already happened so don't touch it if the shop did that they have to fix that and as you know if you have messed with it at all you own it.

If you do need this thing and do it, pay attention to where the lines or rig you make up is not rubbing or too close to hot exhaust pipes AND is out of harm's way as best it can be,


Response From tmdowdle


Are you all sitting down?? My nephew (Geno) and I worked on the car as you know and we put the TPS on it. It was dark and the lighting wasn't all that great in the garage so when we both checked to see if there was an old gasket on the throtle body we didn't see it. Geno installed the TPS and the car drove like well... something other than a honda. Today he and his girlfriend were out there working on the car looking at it and attempting to figure out things. Turns out there was an old gasket on the Throtle body and he removed it. Reinstalled the TPS and walla, the car cut out only one time and thats right after he started to drive it. Go figure. Now I feel like an idiot to a certain degree. Just wanted to give all a little laugh today I know I did.

Power steering problem? please help.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From riderjot on Power steering problem? please help.

Recently whenever I turn the steering wheel it seems there is a pump around the engine that sounds like it's accelerating.

Wondering if this could be a problem? the power steering fluid is full.

Also, on the driver side, there seems to be some sort of creaking noise, it doesn't happen when I'm driving straight, sometimes over bumps, sometimes when I steer.

Anyone know what these symptoms sounds like? would it be expensive to fix?

Make: 2000 Acura TL 3.2

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The creaking could be a ball joint or something. You need to have it inspected by a competent shop.