Buy Discount Plymouth Acclaim Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Plymouth Acclaim

  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,485 Products.

Refine Your Search

Premium Guard
1990 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Premium Guard - Standard Life

P311-42378AC    PO241  New

041-0670 , 04E 115 561 B , 10-01337 , 115010-2191 , 1269 , 130 , 1348 , 16510-60B11 , 16510-82703 , 17-1708-4 , 1AMFL00004 , 1S7Z-6731-DA , 21348 , 2647020 , 3330 , 61215 , 618-51348 , 7058149 , 7984778 , 85335 , 9091520002 , 9144445 , 92269 , A-0211-001 , AL3614 , ASF57 , AT1220338 , B131 , B7020 , BMJ241 , C-3614 , C241 , C2Z21964 , CAS3614 , CF2951 , CO2835 , COS3614 , D366 , DW-241 , ESOF361409EX , FE213 , FL-271 , FP3614 , G-80 , GL10241 , GP-58 , HF28783 , HL3614 , HP-1002 , HP241 , IOF3614 , JL241 , L-335 , L10241 , L11-1350 , L127 , L241 , L35098 , LF-2835 , LF05-14-302A , LFP55-0335 , LR025306 , M241 , M2951 , MD1003 , ML 1003 , ML3614 , MO3614 , OC338 , OF-241 , OF-3614 , OF10241 , P241 , PF1212 , PF2835 , PG241 , PG241BF , PGO-241 , PH241 , PH2821A , PH2835 , PH2859 , PLB2951 , PN3614 , PO-21 , PO241 , POF241 , PPG241 , PZ-21 , QL10241 , R1348 , S3614 , SFO241 , SL10241 , T-29 , TO3614 , V241 , V3614 , VO25 , W0133-1633190-KN , WPH2835 , WS-3614 , X10185

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$3.75
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Standard Life
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Plymouth Acclaim V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Premium Guard
1994 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Premium Guard - Standard Life

P311-07D3651    PO4670  New

02 04 495 , 041-0605 , 05281090 , 10-00017 , 104 , 1068 , 1085 , 110200 , 15600-25010 , 16 , 1614 , 17-1726-0 , 2034 , 2151 , 3402 , 3549957 , 51068 , 51069 , 5281090BB , 542957 , 61085 , 6432PER17 , 650354 , 7048720 , 7825516 , 803470 , 85044-A , 85068 , 9128 , 92068 , A-0201-005 , AL16 , AM31205 , ASF42 , B163 , C-16 , C17 , CAS16 , CF107 , CO177 , D1001 , D400 , EH258 , F-16 , FE292 , FL-173 , GL14670 , GP16 , HF6096 , HL16 , HL7226 , HP-2004 , HSO-131 , IOF16 , L-325 , L10101 , L11-1198 , L24S , LF-16 , LF107 , LFP552518 , LS144A , M1-204 , M17 , M4670 , ML 1001 , ML16 , MO16 , MO228 , OF-16 , OF-81 , OF04 , OF14670 , OF4670 , PF1085 , PF13 , PG4670 , PG4670F , PGO-17 , PH16 , PH232 , PH253 , PH4670 , PL-228 , PLB16 , PN16 , PO-34 , PO4670 , PPG4670 , PZ-13 , QL14670 , QS16 , R1085 , S-285-CP , S16 , SF-17 , SH35 , SL14670 , TO16 , U8L , V4670 , V927PL , VO107 , WD-281 , WS-16 , X4670

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$4.12
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Standard Life
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Plymouth Acclaim V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Premium Vision
1993 Plymouth Acclaim Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$3.81
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • ; Side Pin 3/16 in
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Plymouth Acclaim Front Right
Premium Vision
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$3.81
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • ; Side Pin 3/16 in
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Plymouth Acclaim Front Left
Premium Vision
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$3.81
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • ; Side Pin 3/16 in
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Plymouth Acclaim Front Right
Premium Vision
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$3.81
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • ; Side Pin 3/16 in
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Plymouth Acclaim Front Left
NOK
1993 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Camshaft Seal 6 Cyl 3.0L NOK

P311-49EEE70    W0133-1637407  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$17.53
NOK Engine Camshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NOK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Plymouth Acclaim V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Mopar
1992 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Oil Filter Mopar

P311-45F5172    W0133-2040707  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$33.60
Mopar Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Plymouth Acclaim
K&N
1989 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L K&N

P311-0F56602    HP-1002  New

04E115561 , 04E115561H , 1220645 , 491056 , 51215 , 51348 , 51391 , 51785 , 5205002 , 5205002S , 57023 , 57181 , 9091520003 , 9091520004 , 90915YZZD1 , BE8Z6731AB , C2Z21964 , CH9614 , EX3614 , FL793 , FL910 , FL910S , HP7 , L10028 , L10241 , LF0514302A , LF0514302B , LR025306 , M1102 , M1102A , MO241 , PF1245 , PF1787 , PF53 , PH16 , PH2951 , PH3614 , PH6022 , PH7575 , PH9342 , PH9566 , PS1002 , SS1002 , TG16 , TG3614 , TG9614 , XG16 , XG3614 , XG9614

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$16.20
  • Oil Filter
  • ; Premium Oil Filter w/Wrench Off Nut; Spin On
  • K&N Wrench-Off oil filters are engineered to help ensure high flow rates and exceptional protection from contaminants. Each filter comes with a hex nut welded to the top of the canister, allowing for easy removal with a standard wrench.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Valve: Yes
    • Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
    • Gasket Material: Viton Rubber
    • Height: 3.75 In (95 Mm)
    • Outside Diameter: 3 In (76 Mm)
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Type: Box
    • Product Style: Oil Filters
    • Prop 65 Yes/No: No
    • PSI Relief Valve: 11-14
    • Removal Nut: Yes
    • Removal Nut Size: 1 Inch
    • Style: Canister
    • Thread Specification: 3/4 In. - 16
    • Title: K&n Hp-1002 Oil Filter
    • Weight: 0.8 Lb (0.4 Kg)
  • K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
Brand: K&N
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Plymouth Acclaim V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
K&N
1991 Plymouth Acclaim Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L K&N

P311-56FE6F6    HP-2004  New

1220185 , 1220325 , 122B185 , 51068 , 51084 , 51085 , 51362 , 51521 , AFL5071 , EFL037 , EFL039 , EFL090 , EFL37 , FL137A , FL173A , FL228 , FL259 , FL264 , FL293 , FL300 , FL332 , FL787 , FL842 , HP3 , L10017 , L10018 , L14670 , L17200 , L18207 , L20020 , L20081 , L22167 , L25195 , L27234 , L27261 , L34875 , M1204 , M1204A , PF1180 , PF13 , PF20 , PF2136 , PF44011 , PFW1103 , PH16 , PH2844 , PH2857 , PH2861A , PH2978 , PH43 , PH7 , PH7226 , PH8994 , PH9B , PS2004 , S7328 , S8994 , SS2004 , TG16 , TG3614 , X122 , XG16 , XG3614

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$15.60
  • Oil Filter
  • ; Premium Oil Filter w/Wrench Off Nut
  • K&N Wrench-Off oil filters are engineered to help ensure high flow rates and exceptional protection from contaminants. Each filter comes with a hex nut welded to the top of the canister, allowing for easy removal with a standard wrench.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Valve: Yes
    • Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
    • Gasket Material: Viton Rubber
    • Height: 4 In (102 Mm)
    • Outside Diameter: 3.656 In (93 Mm)
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Type: Box
    • Product Style: Oil Filters
    • Prop 65 Yes/No: No
    • PSI Relief Valve: 8-11
    • Removal Nut: Yes
    • Removal Nut Size: 1 Inch
    • Style: Canister
    • Thread Specification: 3/4 In. - 16unf-2b
    • Title: K&n Hp-2004 Oil Filter
    • Weight: 1.2 Lb (0.6 Kg)
  • K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
Brand: K&N
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Plymouth Acclaim V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,485 Products.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1995 plymouth acclaim WIRING MALFUNCTION!?

Showing 7 out of 20 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From TerryLee on 1995 plymouth acclaim WIRING MALFUNCTION!?

Year of vehicle 1995
Make of vehicle i think Chevy.
Model of vehicle plymouth acclaim
Engine size 2.4
rebuilt engine with 50k miles. 189k miles on the dash


so i want to give as many details as possible, in hope that somebody can offer some help, and hopefully it will be as accurate as possible.

since ive had the car for about 2 years now, sometimes when i turn on my headlights all my dashlights light up and all my meters go to down to 0, gas meter says empty radiator says cold etc. and all my lights on the outside of my car will be on, every light brake tail light blinkers all stuck on. to fix this issue i hit my dash and then the problem goes away.

i dont know if this is relavant to my actual issue or not though. now my problem started last week. i was at my friends house. he left my passenger door open for about 3 hours. when we left my battery wasnt dead, car started right up. on the way to my house my battery was saying it was low. alternator was not charging the battery. my car died nd etc. when i got it home i got a new alternator and installed it after testing with a voltimeter and figuring the alternator was the issue.

after changing the alternator i still had the problem, so i started looking at my wiring and i found a melted wire in what i believe is called "the main junction" for your electrical system heres pictures




so i fixed that wire, everything worked fine. i thought i fixed my car so i was only out the 35 dollars i spent on a used alternator that i didnt need.

the next day i go to drive my car, and not even 3 blocks from my house my dashboard voltimeter is reading 8 volts when it should be 12-15 area, so my alternator isnt charging the battery AGAIN. so i turn around go home. and i try to track down the postive wire from the alternator to the battery.

heres a picture

its the blue wire next to the green and orange wire, that blue wire is the wire connected to the positive of my alternator. and the wire is good up to this point. i searched it up as far as i could and i got to this



all the wires taped up, right before going into this weird 2 block looking thing. all the wires look so old and fragile i dont really wanna mess with it, and i have no idea what this 2 block thing mounted to my car is.

if anyone has any ideas id really appreciate the help. i read this article and im probably going to change all the wiring from the alternator to 4 awg if i can manage it.

i also have an amp, with subwoofer in my car. which im 100 pct sure is the reason this problem started in the first place. the amp and sub is not hooked up currently, not since the first time the car messed up.

any ideas please help. thank you so much

it seems like the alternator just stops charging the car. randomly. at its own free will. and i read something about a wire on the alternator that should tell it to charge, but that wire is always hot wether the car is on or off.

Response From TerryLee

also, i tried to bypass the main junction by using an 8g wire going straight from the alternator to the battery, and that worked for a little bit also, then just randomly stopped. soemtimes it works sometimes it doesnt, i litteraly had the car running and it sat there and died, then later on after putting a battery charger on it and starting it again it wasnt working after the battery was charged, then as im standing there looking at the car thinking wtf is the problem.

i heard the car rev up like it was getting more power, and sure as shit the alternator was back to working. it litteraly has a mind of its own

Response From Hammer Time

You're pretty lucky you haven't had to call the fire department yet. That wire that you found burnt was a fusible link which is actually a fuse and you replaced it with regular wire so the circuit no longer has a fuse. The voltage regulator for this car is built into the engine computer so you need to have this tested by a competent shop to determine what the issue is.

Response From TerryLee

when i peeled theprevious wire apart that was there, it was just a smaller wire connecting to a bigger wire, it didnt look like a fuse, and the wire burnt before the thicker looking area, i just peeled the rest of it off to see if it was a fuseable link like a friend told me, and to see how far up the wire was burnt, it looked more like a wire size adjustment. so i have to take my car to a shop eh? i was really hoping to avoid that, its 60 an hr minimum around here. and i was hoping i could just find something and fix it. these people will rob me.

Response From Hammer Time

That was special "melt-away" wire that's called fusible link and it has to be repaired using fuse wire. It's there to prevent a fire.

Response From TerryLee

ill get more melt away wire then i guess, just so i dont get charged extra for that. id really prefer not to bring it to a shop tho. nobody has any other ideas possibly? im ready to rip out my dash and check the wiring for whatever ive been pounding on it to fix, if you read the first paragraph of my first post you'll understand

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Electrical failures aren't repaired through "ideas". They are repaired by following a wiring diagram and testing. That's not for you. One mistake can fry multiple computers.

Response From TerryLee

im actually very techy and i do alot of house electrical work. if i had a wiring diagram and a voltimeter i dont understand how i can blow multiple computers. but im going to call up an auto service tomorow and try to get in.

i read this earlier. what do you think of this? link deleted........... not allowed

when my cars fixed im thinking of trying it possibly

Response From Hammer Time

i dont understand how i can blow multiple computers

And there is where the problem is. Computer drivers are designed to carry about 300ma. One slip of a power wire in the wrong direction and the computer is history. You can take a computer out simply with the static electricity from your clothes.

Response From TerryLee



this is a picture of an alternator exactly like mine.

my B+ line is always hot

the ground works correct, and when tested with a voltmeter i noticed one of the field terminals was a postive and the other was a negative, the wire i bypassed going to my battery is from the positive field terminal. which im reading about and i guess thats more for the light system. the B+ goes straight to my battery or just about. and the grounds work fine.

if anybody could supply a wiring diagram of my car in detail, i cant seem to find any that would work for anything but wiring a stereo
i would like to go through my lines myself possibly incase the the car shop just wants to tell me its my alternator, or dick me around for hours worth of work.

Response From Hammer Time

Response From TerryLee

the wire i found burned was off the (black rear of battery) plastic piece coming off the postive almost instantly. and it was off that nest of wires there going into my dash where the 1 wire was burnt. that doesnt seem like an amp would cause that would it? my amp takes power from the battery, that line should have nothing to do with my amp. or am i wrong? your the pro. im pretty sure i have a short in my dash if that could have caused this.

Response From Hammer Time

I really don't plan on spending any more time correcting your misstatements and giving you advice that your not taking.

Response From TerryLee

the only thing you want me to do is go to a car shop. your the pro that knows how that diagram works better then me. i figured out the wire i burnt is the A0 8BK, im pretty sure anyways. and it would be nice to know that my amp didnt cause the problem, that it was indeed something else.

thank you for all your help by the way. it doesnt seem like theres really anything else i can do besides take the car to a garage.

Response From TerryLee

i just have 1 final question to anyone still reading this thread. if the wire that was burnt was the A0 8BK or one of the wires coming off of it, could that be caused by a high draw of power through the battery? it looks like A0 8BK wouldnt be affected by this. im just curious if its possible, or not possible. thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

TerryLee: Quick re-read sorry but from the pics (what a mess!) and now some amp (not a good idea) and things so hacked up you need some pro help with this in AUTOMOTIVE work and forget most of your said know how with house wiring as that doesn't equate well to automotive wiring.............

T

Response From Discretesignals

If you have to smack the dash to get stuff to come back on, I think you have more than the problems under the hood going on. Chrysler was horrible with their electrical wiring back then. Most of those cars mysteriously ended up in the salvage yards, but nobody knows why.

Response From Hammer Time

i also have an amp, with subwoofer in my car. which im 100 pct sure is the reason this problem started in the first place. the amp and sub is not hooked up currently, not since the first time the car messed up.

You could have extensive damage from that. When I see that, I turn and walk away.

Response From TerryLee

now i just started up my car, and it works fine. but of course come maybe an hour maybe a day it wont work. its really weird.

i mean just bypassing everything and connecting a wire straight from the alternator to my battery should make it work if the alternator is working anyways right?

why does the alternator randomly stop charging the battery, and randomly start. when i havent touched anything and everything is tightend down and secure.

it doesnt really sound like a wiring issue, but when you mentioned car computer issue, thats really the only reason ill bring it into a shop so they can test it i guess and see what its sayin.

Response From Hammer Time

That wire HAS to be fused

95 Plymouth Acclaim - heater blowing cold

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From carolinagirl513 on 95 Plymouth Acclaim - heater blowing cold

Im having issues with my 95 plymouth acclaim - the heater/defrost is blowing ice cold, even when the heat is on. I just had the thermostat and the water pump replaced, and I was wondering what my next step should be. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
CarolinaGirl

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Take a look at the heater hoses and devices in line on them. Something may have been disturbed blocking flow of hot coolant to get to heater. If you ask for just heat not defrost the A/C should not be engaged,

T

Response From carolinagirl513

I'll check that, and let you know if that fixes it. Thanks!

starter plymouth acclaim.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mike hammer on starter plymouth acclaim.

with my 92 plymouth acclaim on blocks, the battery disconnected the parking break set and the rear wheels blocked i will try to remove and replace the starter of my car . this seems like a straight for ward operation is there anything i should know before starting are there any particular problems that often go hand in hand with an operation such as this. and is it more difficult than it seems

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Sounds like you have the hard part done. Just disconnect the wiring and the mounting bolts. Be sure the wiring goes back on the new starter in the correct positions. Good job being safe.

89 plymouth acclaim low idle stall

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From stupified on 89 plymouth acclaim low idle stall

89 plymouth acclaim. car runs fine as long as you are drivin' it (dies in park also). when comin' to stop or anyhting that requires drop to low idle, car stalls. have replaced:tps, tbtempsensor, auto idle spd motor.
tested map, ok.
car has ignition spark at stall out, and after.
voltage to injector fails (drops too much power) at stall, surges and drops out totally.(get pulse to injector).

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just an idea - look hard for vacuum leaks. Carb cleaner can help find them but can be flamable so use caution. If the spray changes the idle - you found one,

Response From stupified Top Rated Answer

it looks more like a controll module. a vacuum leak wouldnt cut the power to the injector.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are right - vac leaks don't generally have anything to do with power to injectors. They ARE common and a pest though as we both know!

Response From stupified

the only vac leak found is a line goin' to the vapor recovery unit. the line is detached by the throttle body. not sure where it goes, but still have injector cut out. guess ill dump 85 smakers into the local plymouth/ dodge guy. he worked for dodge for 15+ yrs (has his own auto shop and a good rep!) and knows what runs these little beasts.
will update when fixed