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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Plenum Gaskets

  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Replacement Plenum Gasket Parts
  • We stock Discount Plenum Gasket OEM Parts
Genuine
2004 Mazda Tribute Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine - Sold Each

P311-5B10C84    W0133-1639826  New

Qty:
$29.93
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Blue
  • Sold Each
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mazda Tribute V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Genuine
2004 Mazda 6 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine - Sold Each

P311-5B10C84    W0133-1639826  New

Qty:
$29.93
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/23/2004, with Original Plenum
  • Blue
  • Sold Each
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mazda 6 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968 To:08-23-04
Genuine
2003 Mazda 6 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine - Sold Each

P311-5B10C84    W0133-1639826  New

Qty:
$29.93
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Original Plenum
  • Blue
  • Sold Each
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Mazda 6 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Eurospare
1995 Land Rover Range Rover Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 8 Cyl 4.2L Eurospare

P311-53AB0F7    W0133-1629505  New

Qty:
$41.87
Eurospare Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • Upper to Lower Intake Plenum
Brand: Eurospare
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Land Rover Range Rover V 8 Cyl 4.2L - 4200
ACDelco
2013 Chevrolet Equinox Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco - Kit

P311-0B449F7    W0133-2022458  New

Qty:
$39.12
ACDelco Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Kit
  • Includes Six Upper Manifold Gaskets.
  • Kit
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Chevrolet Equinox V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Ishino Stone
2004 Suzuki Vitara Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-02C96B1    W0133-1645021  New

Qty:
$13.47
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • Surge Tank
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Suzuki Vitara
Ishino Stone
2003 Infiniti FX35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/2002-, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti FX35 Fr:11-00-02
Ishino Stone
2004 Infiniti G35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Infiniti G35
Ishino Stone
2006 Infiniti G35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/31/2006, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti G35 To:07-31-06
Ishino Stone
2006 Infiniti M35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2005-, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti M35 Fr:01-00-05
Ishino Stone
2003 Infiniti G35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2002-, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti G35 Fr:01-01-02
Ishino Stone
2008 Infiniti FX35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -02/29/2008, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti FX35 To:02-29-08
Ishino Stone
2008 Infiniti M35 Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5015E9C    W0133-1722400  New

Qty:
$28.95
Ishino Stone Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/31/2008, Plenum to Manifold
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti M35 To:05-31-08
Nippon Reinz
2009 Nissan Quest Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Nissan Quest
Nippon Reinz
2002 Nissan Altima Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/2001-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Altima SE Fr:08-00-01
Nippon Reinz
2005 Nissan Altima Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket 6 Cyl 3.5L Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2004-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Altima SL V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498 Fr:01-00-04
Nippon Reinz
2005 Nissan Altima Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/2004-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Altima SE-R Fr:08-00-04
Nippon Reinz
2004 Nissan Maxima Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2003-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Maxima Fr:01-00-03
Nippon Reinz
2003 Nissan Murano Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/2002-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Murano Fr:09-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2004 Nissan Quest Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-56ACDDF    W0133-1838031  New

Qty:
$26.72
Nippon Reinz Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/2003-, Plenum to Manifold
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Quest Fr:05-00-03

Latest Plenum Gasket Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Higlander is running lean on bank 1 (P0171)

Showing 3 out of 16 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From gausse on Higlander is running lean on bank 1 (P0171)

I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander V6 with 250k miles. It runs decent when cold but when it warms up it runs very poorly, missing and bogging down on acceleration. It generates P0171 error (lean bank 1) and cylinder misfire errors (P300,P301,P302,P305). I replaced plugs and coils a year or so ago, recently replaced bank 1 O2 sensor and main cat converter and cleaned MAF. From what I gather P0171 can mean vacuum leaks, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, bad PCV, fuel system problems.

Trying to narrow it down and have these questions:

1. If the car runs fine when cold, can fuel system issues be ruled out?
2. Would a bad MAF cause errors on both banks, rather than just bank 1?
3. The rear O2 sensor (after cat converter) is dead, what if anything would that effect?

The intake plenum was removed twice to do the plugs and coils. I am wondering if that gasket may have been damaged. Could a bad plenum gasket cause a vacuum leak and error only on bank 1 though?

Response From Discretesignals

What happens to the long and short term fuel trims if you pinch off the brake booster hose?

Response From gausse

After I drove home tonight I clamped the hose and checked the live data. The LTFT was -0.8 to 0 with a couple frames at 5.5 and 7. STFT was in the -0.0 to 3.6 range.

The strange thing to me was that even when I unclamped the hose the STFT and LTFT values didn't go back up to what I was seeing before. Took it back out for test drive and it was still bogging down on acceleration as before. When it is cold (open loop) it runs good and after warm it bogs on acceleration and seems better at higher RPMs.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you tested for a plugged Cat?

Response From gausse

Has a brand new Cat Converter (2 weeks old).

Response From gausse

Little more background. It was running poorly as described and I was getting error codes P1155, P0300,P0302,P0306.

I took it into repair shop for diagnosis. They ran diagnostic tests and recommended motor vac and new O2 sensor. Also noted that rear sensor was at 0.0 volts and said they tightened a loose vacuum hose on throttle body. Ran the same after visit and vacuum hose tightening. Said is was running very lean.

I replaced the O2 sensor and used some fuel system cleaners. The P1155 went away and was replaced by the P0171 error I have now.

Response From gausse

Don't have a vacuum tester/fuel pressure gauge yet.
If the pressure were bad, would it create a problem only when warm? Works fine when car is cold (1st 5-10 minutes).

Response From Hammer Time

I guess you'll be needing this


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watched right along.


Quote from top line........
">>I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander V6 with 250k miles."


Need anyone do anything till this is declared worth touching anymore at all?


T

Response From gausse

The questions I had were more general, to better understand how the systems work:


1. If the car runs fine when cold, can fuel system issues be ruled out?
2. Would a bad MAF cause errors on both banks, rather than just bank 1?


Can a car run well when's it is cold and then when its warm (and computer kicks in) still have fuel system (pressure, etc.) problems? Wouldn't fuel problems be there when its cold as well? Is fuel pressure constant or is it adjusted by the computer?


Can a bad MAF sensor or vacuum leak cause the bank P0171 error? It's a V6 and only one bank is reporting the error, but not both. Wouldn't a MAF problem cause an error on both banks?


The auto shop had it on the scanner as part of the testing and did not report fuel pressure or vacuum problems. Plan to pick up a vacuum tester and give that a try. Have a basic code reader, but not one that reads live data. Will get a better scanner to get more detail.

Response From Discretesignals


1. If the car runs fine when cold, can fuel system issues be ruled out?
2. Would a bad MAF cause errors on both banks, rather than just bank 1?

1. Yes and no. Fuel system includes many things that could work fine when cold and fail when hot. Scan tool interpretation of the data (fuel trim, engine load, ect. O2 sensor voltages) can help paint a picture on what is happening.
2. Yes, a MAF sensor issue will affect both banks.

Response From gausse

Getting long term fuel trim (LTFT) of 50 on bank 1 and bank 2 is normal (close to 0). The LTFT is around 50 at 1000-1800 RPM and drops down to 13.3 at 2179 RPM and 6.3 at 2643.

Did a vacuum gauge test but couldn't detect the problem that way (it was steady at 22, dropped to 5 on revs and recovered quickly).

The fact that the LTFT is bad on bank 1 and not bank 2 should rule out fuel pump or MAF correct? So maybe a intake leak? Could it be a bad plenum gasket? Had the plenum off twice for plugs and coils but gasket was reused.

Response From gausse


Watched right along.


Quote from top line........
">>I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander V6 with 250k miles."


Need anyone do anything till this is declared worth touching anymore at all?


T

Have had it since it was new and the 250k is mostly highway miles. It's in good shape for its age and can't afford a new one right now. Would love a new one though, it has been a great vehicle.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good to know you've known the vehicle. It's impossible to know what "highway" miles really mean as if that doesn't count for use or something? A vehicle's parts all traveled that far and even so much as springs in seats, arm rests, knobs, handles, upholstery can get to a point it's just time to give up.


The question of can a vehicle still be totally useful for much longer at about this age and miles totally depends on how much has already been done or still totally good for more without endless surprises. It's hard to know all that situation by situation.


Every wire and hose has gone along for those miles begin to all be suspect long before this age. BTW - retired and all my own vehicles are much older that this but no miles, out of harsh conditions except one I must use others don't see so much as rain if I can help it - not the norm.


IMO - driveline hard parts can do the 300K mark with exceptional care. You almost never hear of much more than that,


T

Response From kev2

OK so no scanner, no fuel pressure tests, no vacuum leak testing.....
Did you want to guess Or troubleshoot ?

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

Do you have a scanner, vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge? Also sensors should come from TOYOTA. What are ALL the codes you have as you mention post cat is dead?


1. If the car runs fine when cold, can fuel system issues be ruled out? CHECK fuel pressure. use a gauge and let us know.

2. Would a bad MAF cause errors on both banks, rather than just bank 1? No MAF code then Using a scanner look at data - no oiled air filter !!

3. The rear O2 sensor (after cat converter) is dead, what if anything would that effect? What does "dead" mean here? Use ONLY Toyota sensors.


The intake plenum was removed twice to do the plugs and coils. I am wondering if that gasket may have been damaged. Could a
bad plenum gasket cause a vacuum leak and error only on bank 1 though? Check for vacuum leaks, use the old school spray trick...
Why did you NOT replace gasket AND depending on where leak is no idea what is affected...

2002 chevy fuel problem

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mw1871 on 2002 chevy fuel problem

My son has a 2002 Chevy Blazer with a 4.3 V6. We have been chasing a driveability problem for some time now and discovered that the fuel pressure drops to 0 when the pump shuts off. At pressure we are at 60 psi. With 160,000 miles we feel the pressure regulator, with its reputation for failure, would be a good investment. My question is along with the regulator and plenum gaskets, are there any other parts I am likely to need to perform this task. Also, how much time should I expect to need ( barring any mishaps) ? Thank you for any and all responses.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The fuel pressure regulator does just that, regulates how much pressure goes to the injectors under a given load.
If the fuel pressure is bleeding off, there are several possibilities. 1) Check valve in the fuel pump allowing pressure to return, 2) Injector(s) leaking fuel into intake, 3) Fuel feed lines (under plenum).

Response From mw1871

In your opinion, do you feel a pressure regulator is a waste of time or am I possibly on the right track? The diagnostic charts say to install shut off valves in the pressure and return lines to aid in diagnosing. I am not having any luck in finding any nor am I in trying to find parts to fabricate my own.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes, the fuel pressure regulator won't do it. You'll need to hook up a pressure guage, first, to confirm that it is losing pressure after shut down, then start chasing as to where the pressure is going.

Response From mw1871

Do you have any suggestions on how to isolate the fuel lines. I have had suggestions to actualy pinch the plastic lines but I am scared that they will either crimp closed or crack.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

No, don't crimp the plastic lines. You can crimp the rubber return line, though. Should be back, by the firewall.

Response From mw1871 Top Rated Answer

I will try to find the rubber line and give that a try. However that will only isolate fuel returning from that point. But that will at least fill a puzzle piece, I dont know if it will solve the puzzle. I wont see the car until this weekend at the earliest. Thank you for all the input and I will post my findings.

Response From mw1871

As promised, here is the latest update. I was able to craft a couple of shutoff valves and resumed troubleshooting. I traced the fuel pressure bleed down to the fuel pump. With a new fuel pump installed the pressure is now holding steady when the pump shuts off. Now some of the driveability is improved but the vehicle still feels as it has a sputter or miss. A compression test is showing uniform readings. The plugs show no sign of gas or oil fouling. Cap, rotor, and wires have been replaced. We did a resistance check on the injectors and they are all within 3 ohms. The manual gives various readings depending on temp and they are right on. We took these readings at the ecm so that any wiring problem would show. My gut feeling is a fuel delivery issue. The ecm is not throwing any codes. We traced the ecm grounds and they are clean and tight. Any thoughts?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

If you have absolutely ruled out a secondary misfire, it could still be dirty, or clogged injectors. A gas analyzer would be a big help in diagnosing.. If you have a secondary misfire, it will show up in HCs. If you have a misfire from a lack of fuel, you won't see the high HCs as there is no unburned fuel. Not sure if I explained that correctly?
If this is the case, doing an injection cleaning may help. If you've never had this done, you can look at it as a needed maintenance. And, you'll see an improvement in performance and fuel economy. The machine we use is called a Motor Vac. Most shops will have one.

1992 jimmy fuel problems

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From timitaoe on 1992 jimmy fuel problems

i have a 1992 gmc jimmy. it is not getting fuel. i put a new pump and filter on it. it is getting well over 60psi according to my guages. i can put gas in the intake and it will fire up. i just got done taking the plenum off and i took off the fuel line going to the spider it is getting gas there. and there is power going to the plug ontop of the spider. does this mean my spider is bad or is there something else i can check too.

any help would be appriciated. tim.

Response From Hammer Time

You will have to tap into the injector wiring and use a noid light to test for injector pulse.

Check all you fuses first using a test light.


Response From timitaoe

i have tested all the fuses and there is power everywhere there should be. i do not have a noid light, is there anything else i can check a "pulse" with? (and just out of curiosity is it an alernating 6-12 volt "pulse" like some of the jeeps do?)
there is a plug on the top of the injection spider (the only wires going inside the plenum) and i checked it with the testlight and it is getting power there.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you can't use anything else. You can burn out the computer using an incandescent bulb. You can buy a noid light for under $10 at many parts stores.

No one uses a 6/12v to fire injectors.

There is a constant 12 volt on the PK/BK wire and the computer pulses the ground on the DK BLUE wire. When a noid light is connected between the 2, it should flash when cranking.




Response From timitaoe

ok thx for the help. ill try to get a noid light after work tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time

If you can't find one, look for a test light that uses an LED light instead of incandescent bulb.

Response From timitaoe

ok so i went and got a brand new noid light set and hooked it up. and well it is blinking. so it is what i fearded the spider?

Response From Hammer Time

Which 2 wires were you using? Colors?

Response From timitaoe

the only 2 goin into the plenum to the injector red and a blueish i think its blue its a bit fadded plug looks like this.

Response From Hammer Time

You should be going between a pink with black tracer and a dark blue.

Did you just plug your light into a plug like that?

Response From timitaoe

yep. its the only plug with the hookup that fits noid light. it is a pinkcish red i dont see a tracer. and a blue.

edit. the noid light i used was the one on the right in your pifture.

the plug i pluged it into was this one

its not my engine but same thing i got. pluged it into the plug on the injector. sry for the links i cant figure out pictures on here.

Response From Hammer Time

Well, yes it does sound like a bad injector then.

Response From timitaoe

thx for the help bro. ill be seeing ya round.

Response From timitaoe Top Rated Answer

i finaly scavenged the money to buy the stuff i needed. put the new spider and plenum gasket on... fired right up.. thx for the advice again. and if anyone else has this problem everywhere i looked around my area the spider injector costed around $300+ i found on ebay for $128.

Response From Hammer Time

Buying parts on E-bay may save some money sometimes but it does have it's risks and inconveniences.

Glad you got it resolved. I'm going to close this thread now to keep the spammers out. It can be reopened upon request to a Mod.

fault codes po171 and po174

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From mp5912 on fault codes po171 and po174

These cosed are on a 2000 Ford Explorer SOHC 4.0. 207,000 miles.
the codes says i have a lean mixture in banks 1 and 2. i have replaced the maf sensor and the idle air control solenoid and checked for vaccum leaks. i can find no vaccum leaks in the engine compartment. i even tried the starter fluid trick and got no response from the engine. what else can i do. Can u give me some more avenues to look at?

Response From Hammer Time

You might need to smoke test it but I'll almost guarantee you have vacuum leaks.

Response From comnavguy

Can you 'splain "smoke test" ? I gave up Pall Malls a long time ago, so my smoking machine is no longer available for use.

Tell us/me where smoke machines are sold, what they are called, etc. Are they anything like the smoke machines used in haunted houses ?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, they are very like that but have some sensitive gauges for testing. They find air leaks in systems.
Here's a video on how they are used. I have this one and it runs about $1200

http://www.redlinedetection.com/videos.aspx

Response From Sidom

I get a cheap cigar, light it up, start the engine and hook the cigar to the brk booster vacuum hose....

Response From Discretesignals

Ok Sid, please tell me that is a joke. You'll give your car muffler cancer.

Response From Sidom


Ok Sid, please tell me that is a joke. You'll give your car muffler cancer.


LMAO..........I knew you guys would get it but was wondering if I needed to put a disclaimer on it for the DIYers....

Response From Discretesignals

Scotty Kilmer has the answer..check it out..


Response From Hammer Time

He is a sick son of a bitch

Response From Sidom

Yea........some of his crap is just plain wrong...........That cigar thing, you could've easily spotted that leak with can of carb clean....The sad thing is, a lot of unknowning people probably put a lot of stock in those worthless video..... Man what would the neighbors think???? You're standing there with your hood open, blowing thru a piece of hose into your engine?????????

Martha!!!!! Come quick and look!!!!!!!!!! Scotty's doing it again!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know what the hell he's doing but he's DOING IT!!!!!!! I think the damn crack head found a new way to get high!!!!!! That's it!!!!! WE'RE MOVIN!!!!!!!!!

Response From Discretesignals

I think his videos are more geared for the short cut/innovative/backyard ways of diagnosing vehicles using things around the house. They are entertaining to watch though. And to be quite honest there are some interesting tricks and he makes some valid points.

You wouldn't see me trying any of his methods on a customers vehicle though. Imagine customer watching you through the waiting room window as your puffing on a cigar blowing into their engine.

Snap on could market the cigar as a diagnostic tool. Snap on vacuum leak detector with built in flash light.

Response From Discretesignals

He is a sick son of a bitch

Scotty Kilmer or Sid? LOL

Response From Hammer Time

Kilmer, of course. He posts some of the stupidest stuff I ever heard.

Response From Sidom

I have yet to click the link but reconize the name.........I think I'll click the link for pure entertainment.......lol

Yup....Just as I thought.........always entertaining......lmao........You know, I have about a dozen jokes to post about that vid........BUT this being a family site & all.....guess I better not........

Response From Sidom

It would realliy help to be able to look at freeze frame data on this one......This is a snap shot of certain PIDs (info) when the failure occurred.

These have a problem with plenum gaskets leaking when they're cold, after everything warms up, they seal enough not to set a code.

If you could access FF data, you would see the failure happening when it was cold. To confirm you could smoke it when it was cold. If I remember right Ford has an upgrade kit available with better bolts..... I'm sure Z could confirm this for me....

Response From Hammer Time

I smoked one yesterday on an Escape and found the same problem.

Response From Discretesignals

If you do end up pulling the plenum off, there is a fresh air pipe elbow that connects to the fitting that feeds the idle air control valve. From the rubber elbow a plastic pipe goes underneath the intake and acts as a sound damper. The other pipe from the rubber elbow goes to the air duct right after the filter. DO NOT TAKE THAT ELBOW OFF THE INTAKE! You'll rip the elbow and be in a world of shit. That part cost $230 and can be bought only from the dealer.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I just did an 01 Ford Exploder 4.0L (E) that had lean codes and rough idle when first started. Vacuum leak at plenum gaskets. Also did a tune up including wires while I had the plenum off. Runs like a champ and fuel trim was perfect before it was handed off to the customer.

Honda accord stall when at operating temp

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Question From thebighammer1 on Honda accord stall when at operating temp

I am working on a 1997 honda Accord sedan with2.2 single over head cam non vtec engine. The car had a bad miss that turned out to be a bad intake gaskets. We replaced the head,intake,exhaust and plenum gasket. The car ran great till it warmed up and I snaped the throttle it reverse and came to a idle and died. The car would then start hard by feathering the throttle. I went to lunch and it cooled down and when I got back it fired up and ran great till it got warmed up and then same thing. I checked the egr, iacv every thing it with in the values of all data we even pulled the egr plate and cleaned it up and checked tps it values we also good I am out of ideas any help would be great opportunity and replaced the key swith and checked main relay

Response From thebighammer1

The fuel pressure was with in its range with the regular un hooked and hooked back up and stayed at35 when it was warm and stalled

Response From thebighammer1 Top Rated Answer

Filter was also changed

Response From Discretesignals

How does it run off idle, cruising, and accelerating? Does it ever stall other than at idle?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back to the head. Why was it changed and only checked with a straight edge instead of checking it out? They are as frail as can be and hide cracks that would change when temp does and not be seen by eye so easily. Guessing it was used right? Maybe that's why that vehicle was scrapped to begin with?


? IDK where I'd start first. I think I'd look for plug uniformity if just one show unlike the others and go from that,


T

Response From thebighammer1

It's the same head that came off we changed the gasket I also used a the part spray cleaner a dye penitrent and a developer and it showed no cracks it a process used to find cracks in high pressure hydraulic parts

Response From Tom Greenleaf

So this is to say you've never driven this car on roads at all? Did you get it with the problem and YOU diagnosed the gaskets you replaced? Was this a wild overheat or an IDK just had the symptoms?


Back to top post and subject line suggests it runs fine till warmed up. To me I'm just stuck on thinking a total stall is it just can't overcome ordinary reasons for lowering RPMs to which there's a limit. Say you have A/C on, steer the car both are loads compensated for but not just warming up and if fact you say stalls out.


Compression OK and even on all? Vacuum reading at idle correct (~18Hg or so at idle and the same at ~2,000 RPM) would indicate general engine health. If not a serious vacuum leak even just the wrong vacuum hose could send it all off.


It's back together again now from the work so I'd do the tests again for each cylinder being even enough, compression enough and even try pressuring up each cylinder on TDC for a leak down if so and where it goes.


It's OBDII, codes would help. It's forgiven for some things when just started then when it closed loop can't hold an idle when controls tell it just exactly (best it can) fuel delivery, timing and more for max efficiency and performance. If wrong info gets sent it would mess up.


There's only so much time cold and for testing but I might try fast cylinder balance if nothing better available by cancelling one plug at a time and it shouldn't stall when cold in this case IMO and run equally lousy with each cancelled. If one goes totally or close to dead when warm it just might stall out missing ONE cylinder? If random another reason to chase.


Sorry if a goose chase but I don't really trust that cylinder head yet. It wasn't redone just straight edge checked so right now only you know what it might have been thru to need anything at all to begin with,


T

Response From thebighammer1

The car came with this problem it my son's project car we had a oil leak that we thought was the head gasket that's why we replaced the gasket turned out the oil leak was a sender in combination. With the rocker cover . The stall is a slow stumbling stall we checked compression. It was good just did a vacuum and it was only 12 inchs of mercury so it looks like I have a vac leak some ware looks like I need to build a smoker

Response From thebighammer1

Okay just got in from the shop we let the car cool down and went to start it it fired right up a ran smooth so I turned on the lights air and anything I could power up. the car ran great no trouble so we left it run till the fans kicked in still ran great so I hooked up vac gage had 18 inches of mercury on the gage which is normal still running great told my son to give it gas he raped the throttle twice below 3000 rps and it recovered and ran great he did it a third time over 3000 and it started to stumble and died thinking that.tps maybe

Response From Tom Greenleaf

! I don't think you are properly equipped to work on this engine to this level without a lot more equipment and exact diagnosis and understanding of this exact one.


Reading between the lines, typos and all you've torn this down for a leaking oil pressure switch........
/
For that you decided it needed a head gasket job!
That one perhaps, hence opening Pandora's box of problems now throwing darts at the guess board of possible things. I don't know how or where you tested vacuum under what conditions but hard to see a real 12 Hg and have good compression if checked properly. Just for good measure what do you consider good compression? What were the results? What did the plugs look like? I've asked you that before without an answer.


Now it must be a TPS - maybe? Why guess when you could at least do a test on it?


This is a pretty high strung engine that wants plenty exactly right and not very forgiving.


There must be a lot of bucks already spent at a glance the full head gasket set was up there alone never mind new head bolts you didn't mention if new or not another $100. If new is not required it does need each one totally cleaned and oiled (as per a quick read on this exact one) or torque would be in question.


IDK - What do you want to do with this thing before it's declared not worth fixing this one up vs some other vehicle to "learn" on? Any mistakes seem to just set this back to worse,


T

Response From Discretesignals

When you state you have to feather the throttle to keep it running, how does it run. Is it running rough or skipping while your feathering the throttle or does it sound fine but just doesn't idle?

Just trying to figure out if this is an idle control type problem or something other than that.


Have you adjusted the valves? Honda's are sensitive to manifold pressure.

Response From thebighammer1

I adjusted the valves when you hold on the throttle a little it seems to run fine then when you let it go it idles rough and misses and shuts off I just ran a vacuum check and it only pulls 12 inchs of mercury when it hot I think I am going to have to build a smoke machine and try that

Response From Discretesignals

If the engine is running badly with the throttle closed, it is going to have higher manifold pressure. That is going to be a effect and not the cause. Even with a vacuum leak the engine will run better at higher rpms and will rev up just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

12Hg suggests you are checking at wrong spot, super high altitude or valve timing off which may explain a lot.


Hg for an engine at idle at sea level could be 18-19.5 or so. Each 1,000 ft of elevation you drop that norm by 1 Hg with all things equal.


About now valve timing is my guess. Off so all would be off equally. Do check that with known actual manifold vacuum "T" line in so item a vacuum line goes to still operates or test is not valid,


T

Response From thebighammer1

It has not made it on the street because when it heats up you have to keep feathering the gas

Response From thebighammer1

The head and block deck were straight Edge checked and we're with in tolerance. The intake also was checked I was a diesel tech for 25 years and have access. To alldata that's ware the values I got came from tested old school with a multi meter I have a small matco reader but can't do engine running scans

Response From thebighammer1

No codes and no code light

Response From Discretesignals

Wonder what fuel pressure is doing when the engine stalls and has a hard start?

Response From Discretesignals


I checked the egr, iacv every thing it with in the values of all data



values of data? Are you using a scan tool to monitor engine data pids?

Check engine light on? Any trouble codes stored?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Was the head check and machined? Even if so I suppose it's possible to have a flaw or any other part you worked on or might have missed. Re-diagnose as it this is a new problem paying attention more IMO to what you just did,


T