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TRW
1987 Ford F-150 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-34E5458    W0133-1703223  New

Qty:
$78.14
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1987 - Ford F-150
TRW
1987 Ford F-250 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-34E5458    W0133-1703223  New

Qty:
$78.14
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
  • with Power Steering
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1987 - Ford F-250
TRW
1987 Ford F-250 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-34E5458    W0133-1703223  New

Qty:
$78.14
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
  • 2WD - with Power Steering : 4WD - All
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1987 - Ford F-250
TRW
1992 Ford F-250 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-34E5458    W0133-1703223  New

Qty:
$78.14
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
  • 2WD
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Ford F-250
TRW
1996 Ford F-350 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-34E5458    W0133-1703223  New

Qty:
$78.14
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
  • with Eddie Bauer Package
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1996 - Ford F-350
TRW
1995 Ford Crown Victoria Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-259EA4B    W0133-1699993  New

Qty:
$66.55
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1995 - Ford Crown Victoria
TRW
1996 Ford Crown Victoria Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-0D2FE83    W0133-1700027  New

Qty:
$51.00
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1996 - Ford Crown Victoria
First Equipment Quality
1983 Dodge Ram 50 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-396BC4D    W0133-1678056  New

Qty:
$31.05
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
  • w/o Power Steering
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1983 - Dodge Ram 50
First Equipment Quality
1985 Dodge Ram 50 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-396BC4D    W0133-1678056  New

Qty:
$31.05
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
  • 2WD
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1985 - Dodge Ram 50
First Equipment Quality
1985 Dodge Ram 50 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-396BC4D    W0133-1678056  New

Qty:
$31.05
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Dodge Ram 50
First Equipment Quality
1990 Mitsubishi Montero Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-03CB046    W0133-1729566  New

Qty:
$38.23
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
  • Production: 06/1989-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1990 - Mitsubishi Montero
First Equipment Quality
1991 Mitsubishi Montero Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-03CB046    W0133-1729566  New

Qty:
$38.23
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1991 - Mitsubishi Montero
AMO
1994 Land Rover Discovery Steering Pitman Arm AMO

P311-05D70C4    W0133-1651436  New

Qty:
$50.84
AMO Steering Pitman Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • AKA:Lever-Drop Arm.
Brand: AMO
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Land Rover Discovery
Original Equipment
1993 Land Rover Defender 110 Steering Pitman Arm Original Equipment

P311-15C2EAA    W0133-1625143  New

Qty:
$38.87
Original Equipment Steering Pitman Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Repair Kit Ball Joint Kit for Drop Arm.
  • Repair Kit
Brand: Original Equipment
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Defender 110
Original Equipment
1994 Land Rover Discovery Steering Pitman Arm Original Equipment

P311-15C2EAA    W0133-1625143  New

Qty:
$38.87
Original Equipment Steering Pitman Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -SA118114, Repair Kit Ball Joint Kit for Drop Arm.
  • Repair Kit
Brand: Original Equipment
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Land Rover Discovery
First Equipment Quality
1991 Mazda B2200 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-4C697A7    W0133-1760686  New

Qty:
$28.01
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Mazda B2200
First Equipment Quality
1990 Mazda B2600 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-4C697A7    W0133-1760686  New

Qty:
$28.01
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
  • Production: 10/01/1989-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda B2600
First Equipment Quality
1999 Ford F-150 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-4AFDA3E    W0133-1702313  New

Qty:
$38.66
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Ford F-150
TRW
1999 Ford F-150 Steering Pitman Arm TRW

P311-475CA65    W0133-1702313  New

Qty:
$46.06
TRW Steering Pitman Arm
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Ford F-150
First Equipment Quality
1998 Ford F-250 Steering Pitman Arm First Equipment Quality

P311-4AFDA3E    W0133-1702313  New

Qty:
$38.66
First Equipment Quality Steering Pitman Arm
  • GVW Under 8500 Lbs.
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Ford F-250

Latest Pitman Arm Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

99 Merc sable ball joint

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From fuzzy1 on 99 Merc sable ball joint

Good Day,
I have a 1999 Merc Sable and im having problems separating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. The hub bearing is bad and i dont want to damage the good ball joint with a pickle fork. Any ideas? I've tried a 7 foot pry bar and hammer to loosen but no luck.

Response From nickwarner

I doubt this is going to come apart without the pickle fork, but just separating the joint with the fork shouldn't damage it. Might tear the rubber boot a bit, but if you're careful this can be minimized. With that 7 foot bar you are putting pressure on more than just the ball joint, and could possibly do damage if you get too rough. The pickle fork is only applying pressure exactly where you need it to be. If the joint comes apart from that, it wasn't a good joint to begin with.

Response From way2old

Usually a big hammer where the ball joint goes through the spindle will free it. Just be sure to hit on a solid part on the spindle directly where the ball joint goes through.

Response From fuzzy1 Top Rated Answer

ok. got the darn thing out.. turns out a good solid pitman arm puller does the trick.. fit like a glove and 5 turns of the ratchet and it popped loose.
I did try the hammer idea as I have for many years along with the big bar and had no luck, so a little online research proved the pitman arm puller to work best.
I greatly appreciate the info.
Thanks Fuzzy1

1993 Ford F-150 wanders

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 1993 Ford F-150 wanders

Hi;
I have a 1993 ford -150 p/u how do i replace the steering box

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Pretty straight forward. Just unbolt the obvious stuff. The only special tool you will need is a pitman arm puller to get the arm off the box.

I'm assuming you've checked the rest of the frt end out. Those are notorious for bad radius arm bushing & springs.....

2003 Sierra PS issue.

Showing 2 out of 37 Posts | Show 35 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on 2003 Sierra PS issue.

Having an issue with the ps on the 03 Sierra 4.8L 4X4. I've never had an issue like this one. When I turn the wheel to the left it feels like there's no ps. Once I accelerate it seems to be fine. It makes a very quiet noise when it happens but not the normal whine. It almost sounds like a quick "poof" of air. As long as I have my foot on the gas, like when I'm making a turn, it's fine. Turning the wheel to the right is just fine too. A few months back I replaced the ps pump and one of the lines. I haven't really had a chance to really looks things over because I just noticed it. I didn't notice any leaks under the truck nor is the fluid low. Any idea what could be causing this?

Response From Sidom

I would verify if that truck has wheel postion sensor on the base of the column or not. If it does have one, it can be tested fairly quickly with an ohm meter. Hook the meter up to the sensor connecter after you unhook it it and turn the wheels for stop to stop, any big jumps in the reading of if it goes to o/l, that would indicate a bad sensor..

Response From Discretesignals

I could be wrong, but I thought they stopped using EVO on those trucks because they found the system was causing the pump to rob too much power at highway speeds.

One easy way to see if it does have EVO is look for the electrical solenoid on the back of the steering pump.

Response From MarineGrunt

I didn't get around to messing with it today but I do know that it does not have EVO. (Thanks for the diagram DS or else I wouldn't have had any idea what to look for)

Response From MarineGrunt

I changed out the gear box and started it up. Now it doesn't have any ps. The install seemed pretty cut and dry but is it possible that I could've hooked it up wrong? There are the 4 big teeth on the spline. Maybe I hooked the pitman a 1/4 off? I don't think so though. Maybe I just didn't get the splines all the way in the pitman? I used a flashlight to make sure I lined the big splines up so I'm pretty sure it's in right.

What's the best way to go about flushing? Before swapping it out I just kept pumping it out, adding more and repeated about 5 times. Is there any other way? Could I take the lines off and blow air through them?

Response From Hammer Time

No, you flushed it correctly. There really isn't any other good way. If you have no power at all, short of having the hoses crossed and I doubt that is even possible, you can only have a defective box. We have to assume the pump is good as it worked just prior to the repair. Having the Pitman arm on wrong will only effect the turning radius to one side. You can actually removed the arm and try it without it

Response From nickwarner

Unhook the return line coming out of the box and start the engine. If fluid is coming through then you know the pump is working and the box is a dud. What brand was it?

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure you catch that oil if you do that. It's going to come out with a lot of pressure.

Response From nickwarner

Make sure you catch that oil if you do that. It's going to come out with a lot of pressure.

Thanks for ruining the surprise HT.

Response From Discretesignals

I can see MG slipping around on his garage floor covered in power steering fluid trying to pinch the hose off while he yells for someone to turn the engine off.

Everyone knows about the pneumatic oil drainer fountain incidents...LOL.

Response From Hammer Time

Everyone knows about the pneumatic oil drainer fountain incidents...LOL.


You mean the high pressure stream of drain oil blasting the ceiling and everything within 50 feet.

Response From Discretesignals

exactly that one...I won't forget the day I first saw one go off like Old Faithful. Except this one didn't come out the funnel on top. The hose actually flew out of the drain barrel and was flailing around like one of those water toys the kids play in.

Response From MarineGrunt

I missed your post earlier Nick. The wife and I went out to return some Christmas crap so I was on my phone.

The return line is the rubber hose that is clamped onto the fitting, correct? If so I should be able to just clamp a long piece of 3/8" hose to it and stick it in a bucket. I figure if I do it that way I won't have to drive north to slash somebody's tires for trying to pull a fast one on me. HT, I owe you a beer. Like HT said, the pump was working fine before but I guess it's worth checking first. I even drove the truck to pick the box up earlier and it worked fine except turning left and only when I took off from a complete stop. For the most part, the second I revved the engine it seemed to come out of it.

The brand is Fenco. I just picked one up from advanced since they had one in stock.

Besides the pump or box is there any other component that could cause complete ps loss?

Response From Discretesignals

Here is a tech that had the same issue of no power steering what so ever. The problem with the gear box was probably the wish valve was stuck. Couple of techs stated they got their pumps from Jorgen Automotive Corporation and haven't had any problems as you would with those cheap remans like Fenco.

"FIX posted on Sep 29, 2012 4:59:39 PM
First of all thanks for the many great replies.

Some of you have had similar experiences to mine. Multiple pumps with no easy resolution. Well I think we can put this one to rest. The bottom line to this problem appears to be a contamination issue. What was happening was that the pressure relief valve was sticking in the bore after several minutes of operation. This was easily confirmed by removing the line and fitting from the back of the pump and you could see that the valve was stuck down in the bore allowing fluid to bypass back into the pump reservoir. This will occur during max pressure output to prevent system damage. I pulled apart several pumps and always found them to be stuck in this position. After we freed up the valve and reinstalled it function would be fine for awhile and then stick again. When I took apart the last two pumps that failed I was never able to determine what was the cause or location of the bind. There was a very slight amount of what appeared to be paint flake in one of them. I can only conclude that this was either there from the original pump or it came loose and fell in the system or was introduced during the repair process.

Fix for this one came from my transmission flusher Trans Tech Unit. Put it into fill mode and pushed several quarts of fluid through multiple times. Took apart a stuck AC Delco pump ,cleaned it, reassembled it, put it on and away it went.

An untold amount of hrs were spent trying 3 different vendors pumps, one known good one off of a working vehicle, one power steering box and a pressure hose, and god only knows how much power steering fluid and beer( after work only ). We were pretty sterile during these repair attempts and can only hope others will benefit from this information. Thanks again for the great feedback and moral support that this forum helps to provide."

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the info. Sounds as if that's exactly what I'm dealing with. I might try the Cardone and see how that one goes. I'm first going to disconnect the return line just to make sure the pump is working. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks

Response From MarineGrunt

I unhooked the return line from the steering box and no fluid came out. For about 3 seconds I hear some type of grinding growling noise. I'm guessing it came from the pump. I tried getting closer to hear but it stopped. Since no fluid came out I'm looking at a new pump, right? I put a new one in about 3 months ago so at least it's under warranty. Is it possible that when the steering box went it caused the ps pump to fail too? I think it's odd though because it worked fine when I started pulling the box. I wonder if a line is clogged?

Response From Hammer Time

Contamination in the system could have caused it. If you're hearing growling, then you're probably right. Obviously, make sure the fluid is full.

Response From MarineGrunt

I double checked the fluid. The growling didn't last long so I'm not positive it was coming from the pump but I don't see where else it would've came from. I guess all I can do is try a pump and go from there. I just wish I could remember where I bought it from. I've got so many receipts from all of the work I've done over the past 4 months and can't seem to find the one for the pump. I've called all the parts stores and they don't have anything in their system for a pump for the Sierra. They've got it for the Venture and Envoy though.

Response From MarineGrunt


I installed the new pump and at first it was exactly the same. No ps. Not even any whining while the new fluid pumped through. I was getting ready to post but then decided I had better take return line off and check to make sure it was pumping. I knew I'd get in trouble if I didn't! Fluid shot out of the hose I had hooked up so Nick wouldn't laugh at me for making a mess. I hooked it back up, started it and then heard the whining sound. I knew that was a good sign. I topped off the fluid and it's now good to go. Di you think it was just air locked? When I had the old pump off I unhooked the lines from the box and flushed them with that kooler klean (or whatever it's called) and blew them out with air. I wanted to make sure nothing was blocking the lines. That's why I figure it had to have been air locked. Got it done just in time to take my dog to the vet.

Thanks for yet another successful repair. You guys have helped me with so many repairs lately I've lost count.

By the way, the steering is much tighter than it was before. I have an really tell going around curves at 55mph. Before I really had to turn on the wheel. Since I haven't owned the truck that long I just figured that's how the steering was suppose to be. The box must've been on its way out for awhile now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

MG - Where in the hell do you come up with these bizarre issues? I just don't have these issues come my way. This got contaminated somewhere to mess up like that. It scares me you heard some crackling sounds. Make dang sure the dinky u-joints are ok that usually last forever.

Stay with whatever warranty your parts require and you shouldn't have to go all over this ever again. I dare say I hold some world record for keeping vehicles forever of my own and usually have some sacrificial sh*t box to use in Winter to save the ones I like.

I may get yelled at by the boyz here but I like synthetics for everything. PS included. Go ahead and yell but I suck out as much plain PS fluid or ATF and replace it with synthetic ATF. Don't touch it right now.

Strange little issues have been solved with the product called Trans-X by name brand. Just do NOT use too much of it or any magic in a can on anything. Most is more harmful than good. Isles of crap as you know - near all junk.

Way behind on reading posts here. Ha - retired so should have all the time in the world but NOOOO!

Hang in there sunshine. High chances one of us has been there done that with some odd problems.

Wish me luck as soon I'll be driving now a very old car to GA in mint shape but still scares me - about 2,500 miles round trip,

Tom

Response From nickwarner

Another successful fix in just two pages. Hey DS, did you find that fix on IATN?

Response From Discretesignals

Hey DS, did you find that fix on IATN?

shhh...secret

Response From Hammer Time

I'd forget about the additives for the time being. All most of them do is swell up seals and some are gum cutters. Neither is something you want to do to a new pump and box.

Response From MarineGrunt

Well Tom, if it's going to happen to anyone it will happen to me.

I try and use synthetic on everything too. I haven't been able to find synthetic ps fluid though. The crackling sound was definitely from the bad box. I'm positive about that. Crackling might not of been the best word to use. It's hard to explain some sounds though. With a new box, ps pump, and two month old pressure line, it ought to be good to go for quite some time.

Only two pages. Geez, I must be slacking. Well, I guess I'm just learning a few things.

Be safe on your trip Tom.

Thanks again everyone.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Forget additives as I thought I said for now as everything is new. PS fluid is ATF and you can get synthetic ATF. No need to tick off the Pope in your kitchen but try frying syn oils vs any regular oil and you'll see what happens after the fire department arrives! WARNING - using kitchen for automotives can and will cause domestic relationship problems! :-) May he who has never used the dishwasher for some car part please come forward!

The point of an hydraulic fluid like for transmissions and PS is to be light viscosity, highly detergent and very strong on anti-foaming properties. Essentially ATF and PS fluid is "5" weight oil with the properties mentioned,

T

Response From nickwarner

Nope. Those two would be it. Getting a dud reman from advance isn't a new thing. I quit buying anything rebuilt from them about 4 years back because of it. I got a Cardone for my truck from Oreilly. Haven't had an issue with it.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT. I was kind of wondering that but wanted to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I even thought about throwing the old one back on just to see what it would do. With the old one on I at least has ps to the right and sometimes the left as long as I was on the gas. With the new one it's as if the truck has no ps system. No whining sound from the pump or anything. Just no ps which is a bunch of bs since the part was still wrapped in plastic. I'll just blame it on China like I usually do. I'll exchange it tomorrow and let you know the results.

Response From Hammer Time

DS will correct me if I'm wrong but that sounds like a bad trigger valve in the steering box. You'll probably have to replace the box but I would try a fluid flush first.

Response From nickwarner

With HT on this one. Sounds like new box time if the flush doesn't work. You can mix a little Seafoam TransTune into the fluid and run it a bit to try to break loose some crap in the system.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks. If the box ends up needing replaced how bad of a job is it? Should I get a used one or new one? This truck
does have a leveling kit and I've heard it can be hell on certain components so I wonder if it had anything to do with it. Looks like my father-in-law's golf cart engine will have to wait until I get my truck done. It was smoking so he asked me to rebuild it. The culprit was a broken ring.

Hopefully a flush takes care of it. Do you just keep drain, add, drive, and repeat a few times?

I ran to the store before I posted this. If I turn the wheel back and forth about 5" each way you can hear like a clicky clunky noise coming from right around the pedals which I assume is where the steering box is. Is it still worth trying to flush?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The flush should be done no matter what because even a new box needs a clean system. Changing the box is no big deal if you have a pitman arm puller. I think it's like 1.2 hr. A pitman arm, 3 through bolts, 2 lines and a coupler.

Response From nickwarner

You said you're getting a clunk near the floor? Try one little thing first. Unhook the steering shaft from the steering box and turn that wheel a half turn each way. See if you still get a clunking binding feeling. If so you have either a bad column bearing or bad ujoints in the shaft.

Response From MarineGrunt

Will definitely flush first HT.


Nick, I did just came across some info about it could possibly being a bad shaft sector? I also saw some info about the u-joints. I guess it seems to be a common problem. Once I get around to doing your test I'll let you know the results. It might be a few days. But hey, at least I have the Venture to drive!

It's not really a clunking sound like I said. Well, kind of, just quieter than a clunk. Maybe crackling would be a better term. It's almost more of a feel than a noise but you can hear it. I'll spend a little more time feeling and listening tomorrow so I can explain it a little better.

Thanks guys.

Response From Hammer Time

Most of those issues won't define between left and right. A bad joint will give you binding in either direction, not just one way. There is an option on some truck for "Variable steering" that has a "steering wheel position sensor" at the bottom of the column that has a history of problems but i don't believe your truck is equipped with that feature.

Response From nickwarner

To answer your earlier question, a reman is just fine. I run one in my truck. Lot of trucks now you can only get a reman and not a new one.

Response From MarineGrunt

When I turn the wheel I hear the crackling noise no matter which way I turn it but the power steering is only affected when turning the wheel to the left. I need to crawl under it and take a closer look on how everything works. I've never messed with a steering box before. Besides power steering pumps and lines the only thing I've ever done that is close to the steering was disconnecting the rack on the Venture. I guess I'm going to have to learn something new.

What normally happens to a steering box to make it fail? I noticed they have rebuild kits. I think they mainly consist of seals and o-rings. Is that an option or should I just get the reman? The rebuild kit is $17 and the box is $150 online or $180 locally. I figured it would be more than that though.

Response From nickwarner

You don't have a leaking box, its internal valving issues. I'd get the reman. Watch out for the online stuff. This isn't light so shipping will get you and you'll have to mail back the core. This is a pretty simple bolt-on deal. Cakewalk compared to all the punishment you put yourself through last year.

2002 Astro Van

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 2002 Astro Van

SIMPLE QUESTIONS - need to know how many grease fittings on the front end of a 2002 Chevy Astro van - seems the lube guy is missing some of them - he said only 8 and I know there are more than that!

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

There are one on each ball joint (4) 2 on each idler arm (4) one on each tie rod end (4) and one on the center link where the pitman arm connects (1) for a grand total of 13. I also have a 2002 Astro van.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You may have to count for yourself as some replacement parts if any have grease fittings when originals did not or depending on production date it could be different from another right beside it. Some places will miss some fittings and some will pass by some hard to get to ones which isn't right but face it that it can happen,

T

Pitman/Idler arms stuck - pickle forking to no avail -

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lexrexus on Pitman/Idler arms stuck - pickle forking to no avail -

Pitman/Idler arms stuck - pickle forking to no avail - -
Have pulled off of steering spline, ok, but can't get other end or other part off.
Is there a trick? Fork won't hammer in enuf to pry 'em apart - I pound and pound ...

Response From Jeff Norfolk

You may see about a diffrent size pickle fork. The make several diffrent sizes. (fork width and thickness for tie rods, ball joints ect)

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If your trying to get the pitman arm off of the steering box, it's going to take a special, very strong puller. It won't come off any other way and you will destroy the steering box trying to.