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Standard Ignition
1985 Chrysler Executive Limousine PCV Valve 4 Cyl 2.6L Standard Ignition

P311-41B55AE    V231  New

28080 , 76-2540 , 8-94152-859-0 , 045-0285 , MD024719 , 28028 , MD041519 , 6P1133 , 6-1015 , 76-2634 , 014-0018 , HV120 , PC231 , 045-0252 , PCV282 , 6-1022 , PCV131 , 6P1077 , MD012947 , PV1022 , 12353446 , 6-1008 , PV1033 , 28085 , CV930C , 26740-32804 , FV288 , 2674032800 , 6-1012 , PCV495 , 26740-21310 , PCV167 , PCV148 , PV1010

Qty:
$10.33
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality Alternate Number
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Chrysler Executive Limousine L 4 Cyl 2.6L 156 2555
Standard Ignition
1977 Chrysler Town & Country PCV Valve 8 Cyl 6.6L Standard Ignition

P311-552E167    V165  New

PCV188 , 4694335 , PC20 , 6P1063 , 8F7 , 28002 , CV761C , 19018 , 76-2568 , PCV207 , PCV66 , 06487087 , 53030564 , FV163 , FV395 , 3671076 , FV163DP , CV761CB , PC270 , 70-9412 , 76-2776 , 5175 351AA , 28062 , PCV200 , 53031135 , FV348 , 3420223 , PV761 , FV348DP , HV17 , 3577098 , 6487087 , 3420224 , 6P1083 , 2-761 , 5175 352AA , PC51 , 3514867

Qty:
$7.06
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Hose Size - Inches: 5/16, 3/8"
    • Hose Size - mm: 8, 10 Mm
    • Nipple Orientation: Angled
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Chrysler Town & Country V 8 Cyl 6.6L 400 6556
Standard Ignition
1989 Chrysler Conquest PCV Valve Standard Ignition

P311-41B55AE    V231  New

28080 , 76-2540 , 8-94152-859-0 , 045-0285 , MD024719 , 28028 , MD041519 , 6P1133 , 6-1015 , 76-2634 , 014-0018 , HV120 , PC231 , 045-0252 , PCV282 , 6-1022 , PCV131 , 6P1077 , MD012947 , PV1022 , 12353446 , 6-1008 , PV1033 , 28085 , CV930C , 26740-32804 , FV288 , 2674032800 , 6-1012 , PCV495 , 26740-21310 , PCV167 , PCV148 , PV1010

Qty:
$10.33
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Chrysler Conquest
Standard Ignition
2000 Chrysler Neon PCV Valve 4 Cyl 2.0L Standard Ignition

P311-0D2D931    V368  New

HV209 , 4777240AC , 6P1066 , PCV334 , PCV479 , FV405 , 76-2593 , PCV231 , 4777240AD , 78157 , 6P1067 , 04777240AD , PV722 , 76-2671 , PV1075

Qty:
$12.01
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Nipple Orientation: Straight
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chrysler Neon L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1996
Standard Ignition
2004 Chrysler Sebring PCV Valve 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Ignition

P311-0D2D931    V368  New

HV209 , 4777240AC , 6P1066 , PCV334 , PCV479 , FV405 , 76-2593 , PCV231 , 4777240AD , 78157 , 6P1067 , 04777240AD , PV722 , 76-2671 , PV1075

Qty:
$12.01
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Thread Type
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Nipple Orientation: Straight
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler Sebring Sedan L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Standard Ignition
2002 Chrysler Grand Voyager PCV Valve 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Ignition

P311-0D67EA9    V369  New

4694335AA , 19146027 , 78159 , PCV367 , 6P1237 , PCV481 , 76-2694 , 214-1998 , 4694335AB

Qty:
$9.91
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Nipple Orientation: Straight
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chrysler Grand Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.8L 230 -
Standard Ignition
2004 Chrysler Town & Country PCV Valve 6 Cyl 3.3L Standard Ignition

P311-0D67EA9    V369  New

4694335AA , 19146027 , 78159 , PCV367 , 6P1237 , PCV481 , 76-2694 , 214-1998 , 4694335AB

Qty:
$9.91
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • with Steel Head Covers
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Nipple Orientation: Straight
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler Town & Country V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Standard Ignition
2004 Chrysler Town & Country PCV Valve 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Ignition

P311-0D67EA9    V369  New

4694335AA , 19146027 , 78159 , PCV367 , 6P1237 , PCV481 , 76-2694 , 214-1998 , 4694335AB

Qty:
$9.91
Standard Ignition PCV Valve
  • PCV Valve
  • From 7/03
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: No Connector
    • Nipple Orientation: Straight
  • With industry leading expertise, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler Town & Country V 6 Cyl 3.8L 230 -
Standard Motor Products
1998 Chrysler Sebring PCV Valve Standard Motor Products

P311-58385A6    W0133-1643422  New

Qty:
$6.65
Standard Motor Products PCV Valve
  • Engine - EEB
Brand: Standard Motor Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1998 - Chrysler Sebring LXi
Standard Motor Products
2000 Chrysler Cirrus PCV Valve Standard Motor Products

P311-58385A6    W0133-1643422  New

Qty:
$6.65
Standard Motor Products PCV Valve
Brand: Standard Motor Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Chrysler Cirrus LXi

Latest Chrysler Repair and PCV Valve Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Concorde - oil in the intake

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From RC1125 on 2003 Concorde - oil in the intake

I have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde and it's getting oil in the intake. I've read it's could be due to too much vacuum. Well what causes too much vacuum? Lots of info on too little vacuum due to leaks, but nothing on too much. Very stumped! Check engine light appeared coding for O2 sensor. Replaced sensor and wiring looks good when we found oil in the intake. Don't know what to do next.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I'd check your PCV valve first. Too much blowby from a defective PCV will put oil into the air intake. Which motor do you have? How many miles are on it? How often is the maintenance done on this car?

1994 chrysler new yorker 3.5l v6 failed emissions. Edited post

Showing 9 out of 13 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Rob0107 on 1994 chrysler new yorker 3.5l v6 failed emissions. Edited post

looking for help to try to solve a 2 failed emissions tests. Only failed the CO portion, at both idle and cruise. Prior to 2nd test I changed out PCV valve, (which was nasty and gummed up), plug wires, air filter, and plugs. Found one plug that appeared impacted. Ceramic was half gone, center post was gone and spark arm was bent to the side about 45 but was not buried in the plug (one would think a lower upward impact would bury it, especially with ceramic damage. After work done started car and ran it. Pulled the plug, and no damage. Hoped that was the reason for the fail. Obviously not. Is it possible car wasnt driven far enough to clean out all the build up from bad plug/pcv valve, or get catalytic to temp? Alsp why did the CO go up after the tune up. Expected ot to go down. Owner about to drop a couple bills to a shop, and would hate to see that happen if preventable. Test results are below. Any help would be appreciated.

HC. CO. CO+CO2. O2. RPM
Cruise limit. 400. 3.00. NA. NA. 2750
Test 1. 243. 3.99. 16.19. 0.6. 2260
Test 2. 197. 4.92. 16.64. 0.5. 2430
Results P. F. NA. NA. NA

Idle limit. 400 3.00. NA. NA. 1100
Test 1. 284. 3.48. 15.75. 1.1. 980
Test 2. 221. 4.39. 16.22. 1.0. 800
Results. P. F. NA. NA. NA

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Found broken plug and gummed up PCV which you can usually just clean out - new fine but question is why? Usually improper vacuum supply to it via hose not sealing, terrible oil change history, poor quality oil, worn engine and overheat ongoing or in it's history.


Codes will be limited for 1994 for help but try.
With finding the smashed plug probably should do a compression test on that cylinder if alone or just the whole job to compare it.


This probably ran like crap for too long as well harming cat converter. Might be time to really check engine health in general to see where you really stand and if a 1994 is just plain worn and may need more than it's worth.


For just high CO only that much over it's possible a good highway run once running well will clean it all up then test again.


EGR if inoperable/defeated would set off higher CO.


IDK - would probably check whole engine for health of it in general including all tune up items,


T

Response From Discretesignals

EGR doesn't come on at idle. Faulty EGR would cause high NOx. The CO is high because you have incomplete combustion of the fuel/air charge. Many things can cause that such as low manifold vacuum, faulty O2 sensor(s), ignition or timing issues, and ect. Someone is going to have to connect up a scan tool and look at some data stream information to figure out what is going on. An experienced tech should be able to isolate the problem.

Response From Rob0107

No known codes from smog technician, and it looks like the emission waiver is granted when she spends another 150, which it sounds like she is going to do tomorrow. It will then be granted emission immunity for life. Hopefully the techs will do the scope, and code scan first. I am thinking the list is gonna be a mile long, or almost nonexistant. I greatly appreciate all the time and information everyone has contributed to this. I will post the results when I get them.

EDIT... Had her run the key diagnostics and she has codes. However she only sent me 5 numbers so not sure if they are accurate as I dont lnow which ine she missed. She sent back 3 3 3 5 5

Response From Rob0107

Ok.. So she has to wait on shop do to finances. O need to get the other information about the number of wires on the sensor and such.. I do have this much so far though...

Plugs dry and did not appear fouled.. Gap was even good except impacted lookng plug, and one other had build up between the arc area... And now remebering that.. It lokely was not firing either.

3 codes... 12. 33. 55. Does that say much?

Response From Rob0107

Just edited the post adding both test results. Not my car, helping a friend. She changed pcv before my involvement. No overheating. Checked with oreilleys or auto zone.. I forget which and they said it was too old to put on their code spitter. I also inquired about doing a compression test, and was advised that it wouldn't really assist. Basically said cylinder over travel is only thing that would cause that and bearings and caps would have to be checked by oil pan removal. There was something liquid in that cylinder (i assume fuel) and upon checking new plug.. Cylinder was dry. Would the cylinder not have over traveled at start up damaging new plug?

So vacuum line check to pcv valve.
EGR and CAT (can I test these somehow)

I really want to have her go drive it longer (how long?) on freeway and spend the 15 for a retest ... Especially since CO went up after tune-up. If I can test those components I will do that first.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

We'll be at some loss as it's not your car with second hand info now. Guess you can' t know of an overheating history.
Please realize that place like the chain parts outlets are not mechanics they are there to sell parts and that's their job.


Broken plug isn't from cylinder over travel or if bearings could allow that much it's game over for that engine and wouldn't hold any oil pressure now and already be seized up - plain wrong.


Plug could be wrong type, dropped or damaged before purchase or during installation and either an overheat or blast of something too much (cold) into intake just a sudden shock of temp change? Parts would bounce around, could bent or break plug more, valve issue or score cylinder wall so of course you would want to know.


Who could drive this thing with one plug (if it was just one) running that poorly and not seriously complain something was wrong?
You or someone said sludged up PCV strongly suggest oil problems or abuse. Again overheating sludge oil too.


So, you are trying to help and be the nice guy and are. Careful not to be the one blamed when this engine could be declared in serious trouble old as it is from what seems like neglect.


Sludge: Look around for other evidence of it. Once seriously sludge up it's usually all over sooner or later for that engine with areas one by one starved of oil at all.


The reason for a drive is to really heat it up, work the thing so converter if it can burn up junk if it works at all from being run with a dead cylinder that junk has to be cleared out, parts replaced or find it's too much to be worth it. It's a '94 so someone took good care of it for a long time along its life.


I can't guess with things you don't know and suggestions from fast food parts outlets mean nothing IMO. Just ignore anything but rest results in writing then decide what to do - not them.


Sorry - I caught up with why PCV was noted as sludge up and what that might mean for the engine as a whole. Just a new one isn't the fix you need to know why in the first place and if hose(s) involved are any good.


Any engine that isn't running properly isn't going to pass an emissions test. Most places that require that exempt this age vehicle unless there's visible discharge of smoke for example alone it would fail. By machine test that close you would get a time period to fix and if otherwise OK (general inspection pass) and spent enough (not that much) get a year more to drive it or sometimes start the game all over again if still running by then.


There are other ways to determine compression but doesn't allow you to see each plug new now or not what they look like and also do a "wet" test if one or more is lower that spec.


This bearing thing isn't/can't be that worn without insane wild noise.


You/we may not know why the plug broke and if it was from any part traveling too much would do it again right away so that fairy tale just sunk.


Not my call for you but how far do YOU personally want to get involved with this, that is NOT your vehicle?


Tom

Response From Rob0107

she has had the car about a month. prior owner shared nothing notable as far as problems, and has not overheated on her.

I completely agree with everything you have said. compression test and other engine health diagnostics need to be done. I also understand that the emission test does hinge on engine health.

I needed to see if those emission results beore and after the tune up, along with lack of drive time made anyone in the community believe certain sensors or components could be easily tested, or a longer drive time made another test for 15.00 sound plausible before she dumps a couple hundred into the shop. Her thoughts for that are the waiver. With this being the last test before exemption. . would just hate to see them take advantage, or her wasye money.

Response From Hammer Time

Before you go looking for the cause of this, you need to understand what CO is.

To put it in simple terms..........

HC is basically unburned fuel so you would be looking for causes like misfire, timing, vacuum leaks, etc.

CO is basically burned fuel, just too much of it so you are looking for things that would cause a rich mixture or possible Converter issues but that would usually set a P0420 code.

Response From Rob0107

Everything you stated is precisely why I came here. I will never know for sure anything that was done and covered up. I just want to get it through emissions without a shop.

I knew it was rich.. However was unaware that unburned fuel was HC. Blows me away it passed HC with that bad cylinder. So I have to lower the amount of fuel going into cylinders. Timing is not adjustable. Is there a control unit for the fuel injectors or somethng like that? The P0420 code could be there, have to get it on a code spitter. Any other things like type of gas, or an additive that can clean it up a little temporarily? Just gotta get that CO down for a few minutes.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy. Mopars I'm just not strong in. Does this run perfectly or seem like it now just a must be tail-pipe exhaust check for the sticker.


What hurts is not knowing how long converter has been choking on too much raw fuel if that plug didn't work at all and probably didn't AND clogged if totally the PCV would alter "manifold- actual - vacuum" by all odds and wouldn't know how to self adjust a host of things - some will damage the engine left too long almost all would kill the converter if too long as well. I'm not sure how to tell if it's right running now to just drive it and see or start spending some bucks - right converter wont be cheap nor solve the way this runs for a 1994 I'm pretty sure.
Do you know you location's inspection rules? By that said earlier if you attempted to correct the problem and the car must pass all safety anything anyway you get a break and legit sticker to be able to use it or do where I am, Massachusetts - the world's most vicious place for stickers short of probably California.


It might be OK and self fix now with things found and done but hasn't had time or a good run to know for sure. That's why they allow the grace period only up to a point.


Again - if running real well now it could be on the mend just still overloaded with junk (raw fuel) and carbon still burning off. Actually surprised exhaust isn't restricted or parts so now. Check that.
This whole list of check could be quite lengthy.


2nd again: If running well now the sludge is still there. DO NOT FLUSH THAT OUT! I YOU know think this car can be ok someday just change out oil and filter real frequently so sludge will slowly dissolve and caught in filter not too fast. The additives in new oil proper type and rating are cleaners alone. Additives to do that are not a good idea IMO.


One would be use ATF for one qt of oil and only drive a few hours and dump that and still don't suggest that.


I feel for you, you don't know what someone really flucked up already making this a total nightmare now,


T

Response From kev2

wiith little history and a OBD1 system lets do BASICS.


plugs are they firing? correct plug? any looking fouled black or wet?
fuel pressure - then with KOEO observe pressure drop post results.
ECT, coolant temperature be sure its reaching temp, no removed t'stst. unplugged sensor etc.


then check for codes - did the failing emissions test station list any codes?
Is the o2 sensor 1 or 4 wire?
Reading the CHECK ENGINE Light
The "CHECK ENGINE'' lamp has two modes of operation. They are as follows:

  1. Diagnostic Mode — The SBEC can show fault codes by means of flashing the check engine lamp on the instrument cluster. To activate this function turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on within five seconds. The check engine lamp will then come on for two seconds as a bulb check. Immediately following this it will display a fault code by flashing on and off. There is a short pause between flashes and a longer pause between digits. All codes displayed are two digit numbers with a four second pause between codes. An example of a code is as follows:
    1. Lamp on for two seconds, then turns off — lamp check.
    2. Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, and then flashes once — code 51.
    3. Lamp pauses for four seconds, flashes five times, pauses and then flashes five times — code 55.
      The two codes are 51 and 55. Any number of codes can be displayed as long as they are in memory. The lamp will flash until all of them are displayed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ick! She's only owned it a month - so real good info on this all missing. Off on the wrong track already as the car should have been totally checked out before buying it.


You can bet the seller (I can smell thru this computer) knew of problem which is why it was sold. May be beating on a dead horse type thing and should have been scraped but we don't know that yet.


Already said, the broken plug and sludge tell too much already. Yup, you can fake some stuff to hide chronic overheating but not enough time yet for that to occur again if so.


Just understand sludge some: Oil, older oil and heat cause that. Oil lost additive by time and miles and can't take it like butter in a red hot frying pan. Then it clogs small ports or even large ports like a valve cover can't even return oil to pan fast enough, other items run so long dry of any but very limited.


People will either try canned magic crap or knowingly use it to cover a problem and some does for a very short time then almost always causes much more trouble later.


It may have been engine flushed so aggressively it choked on something put in throttle body or oil changed with essentially kerosene to clear it out doesn't help a thing but might for a short while. Cooling system, head gaskets some crap in a bottle will stop those but not for long then harder to do right.


Take all that if possible on a 1994 vehicle - any. IDK - I don't like this picture and sorry but don't think there's much good news. If engine is plain abused you can't expect it's sensors and controls to get accurate information to run properly new parts or not the source problem is always there to just do it again.


I really smell a rat with this. It probably should have gone to salvage (a guess right now) and seller just found some way to make it run well enough to sell it and just get more than its scrap value. Hope not but a lot of checking now would help wasting $$ on a lost cause we don't know yet. That is what folks should do BEFORE buying anything not after.


Guess my suggestion is to find out what you can and spend as little $$ as possible to cut losses on what might be the lost cause value wise to make it really useable again and dependable.


Keep checking what you can find.
Refresh: The Parts places are in biz to sell parts - not diagnose what you should need - you make that call,


Tom

05 pacifica heavy oil consumption

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From shotgunboss on 05 pacifica heavy oil consumption

my wife traded in her 91 cad, for a 05 chrysler pacifica with the 3.5 litre v6 with 36k on odometer, fresh oil change when purchased, we went on a short trip (500 miles round trip) about a week later i checked the oil and it was a quart low about 900 miles later, i have changed it to full syn. but that hasnt really helped the problem, it doesnt leak oil and really doesnt seem to be smoking out the exhuast yet the tail pipe is sooty, so it is burning it off from somewhere? chrysler said a quart every 1000k is normal!? it recommends 10-30 oil, my question is would a lighter oil be better say amsoil 0w-30? and do the 25k interval? i suspect the oil is getting past the oil control rings? i use a quality filter and oil, i tried mobil1 and vavoline full syn so far any help would be great

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First things first.

Did you know and see the oil full before the 900 mile run? It might have been off a bit when you began so you need a known basline for judgment and what oil was used.

For the age and miles I'd only use the suggested viscosity the manu list for the car. I like synthetics but you still buy the viscosity for the vehicle.

True about consumption of a qt in 1,000 miles will be written off as normal if you can't see a leak that's just too small an amount to nail down very easily.

BTW - There's no such thing as a 25,000 mile oil change interval IMHO - read the fine print of the oil maker and the car maker,

T

Response From shotgunboss

yes it was full, i know about the 25k changes, they have 12.5k filters, and yes it maybe sooner rather than later, i've never had a vehicle use so much in such a short span, my 'burban with 180k use's half a quart in 6k which is my interval, we live in an area that is wide open, everywhere you go is pedal to the metal, so you dont have to ride your brake like in some other parts of the country

Response From DanD

What I would do, is what Tom has told you; is stick with whatever viscosity that it recommended by the manufacturer. The next thing is stay with the same brand (of your choice); don’t be switching brands with every oil change.
I have sold Shell, Sunoco, Pennzoil and now oil packaged by AC Delco; all of these oils meet SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standards. With each change in brands; some of my customers have mentioned an increase in oil consumption. After whatever brand was used for a short period time (two or three changes); the consumption went back to “normal”.
What make’s these oils different are the additive packages that are mixed in, to make it theirs; base oil is base oil.
Friction modifiers, cleaners and maybe some for grannies cooking oil; whatever these additives are, is what will burn out of a “good engine”, while it’s doing its job of cleaning whatever it was designed to clean the best.
I don’t really have anything in writing to back this up but it’s my experience that after a few months of running the same oil, the consumption went back down to a normal amount.
Who knows what oil the pervious owner was using; once you’ve used your choice in oil, the consumption will likely go down?

Dan.

Response From shotgunboss

i think i am going to go with the 25k amsoil 10-30, i will buy a case and 4 filters, i will flush the system first then change the oil and monitor it for the first 3k, then go from there, thanks for your input, as far as what oil was used from previous owners? i was told syn. from day one? but i dont have any service records, it was a local trade i may contact them and find out for sure

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

With the low mileage, I doubt that it is the problem, but you may want to replace the PCV valve. They are very inexpensive and I have seen them 'suck' oil out of the engine, but in small enough quanities so as not to cause smoke. Might be worth a try? Also, check the small 'breather' filter inside the air cleaner box. If it is plugged, the crankcase can't breathe, adding to the PCV possibility.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you don't know what exact oil was in it when you first got it then change it now for something known if only to rule that part out. It may be just fine.

Oil consumption 101: Just because an engine doesn't consume much or any oil between checks or changes doesn't absolutely mean it's a good engine or that it isn't using oil. The dirt, moisture, raw fuel etc., may be displacing the lost oil hence fooling you that it doesn't use any or much.

It's my opinion and there are exceptions but the vast majority of people should be on a 3mo or 3K change interval. No arguement that folks will get away with no oil changing and others go crazy taking care of things and stuff happens??


T